BYPFebMar17.pdf - Backyard Poultry Magazine

BackyardPoultry

Dedicated to more and better small-flock poultry

Volume 12, Number 1February/March 2017

How to HATCH DUCK EGGS

A GUIDE TO Poultry Parasites

The TOULOUSE Goose

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Raised by a Wolf Photos by Chet HedgesColorado

Chet Hedges and his family have a member of their flock who is a little more, well, furry than most. And big. And barks. His name is Wakita, from the movie Twister in Wakita, Oklahoma, where their aunt Meg lives, and he is 70 percent wolf. The Hedges call him Keet for short.

Chet writes: “I never fear of him hurting them. I can leave him alone with them while I go in the front of the house and change my oil in my car. He is the bomb! You can see how close the girls get to him. I think they love him just as much. I think they think they have a big brother. I have watched him run off squirrels, doves and more. He lets nothing get to his girls.”

photos clockwise: Wakita; Thing 2; Tanya, Blonde, Lucy, Olympia, Thing and Wonder Woman; I come from the state of Ohio and was raised on a mink farm. I have always had some kind of critter in my life. I have always been a hunter. But as I have gotten older, it’s more fun just trying to make them all get along; Our girls are spoiled. My wife makes them fruit trays and veggie trays. Now the wolf loves and takes care of them. We did something right; Tonya, Thing 1, Thing 2, Blonde, Ebony, Wonder Woman, Christmas Dinner, Wynn and Danica.

6 Backyard Poultry

4 Raised by a Wolf

12 Something To Crow About

18 Coming Events

HELPFUL HINTS

22 A Chicken’s First Two WeeksWhen the chicks get home, here are some tips about how to be ready.

26 Cock-A-Doodle … Don’t?When you get a rooster you can’t take care of, there are options beyond culling.

CONTENTS 12.1

FEATURES

30 Family AlbumThe best of the best submission from flocks around the world.

34 Bookstore

36 Poultry TalkRon Kean and Pam Freeman answer reader questions about their flocks.

42 Healthy FeedLisa Steele answers questions about feeding broody hens and new chicks.

44 Coop InspirationScott and Angela Dye share pictures from their revved up coop in Oregon.

46 A DIY Mobile Chicken CoopHow to make your own mobile chicken coop.

52 From NutrenaHow to find out which birds in your coop aren’t laying.

Choose the Right BreedWe list several popular

breeds and their characteristics so you can order the right breed for

your backyard.

26

62

8 Backyard Poultry

56 Hatching Duck EggsDuck eggs aren’t chicken eggs, as we explain in a piece including the hows and whys of hatching ducks.

84 Finding CoCoWe’re hiding a few deals and specials. Can you find CoCo?

90 On the Road AgainPete Robertson heard his flock singing on a road trip, so he wrote us a funny story about it.

94 How to Train a DuckShow. Tell. Repeat. It’s Lori Fontanes’s method for getting her ducks in line.

96 Gertrude McCluck

98 Marketplace

100 Breeder’s Directory

101 Classifieds

70 Delightful SebrightsThis smaller breed could be just right for your backyard.

It’s Pie DayJanice Cole teaches how to make the perfect pie for Pi Day on March 14.

80 The Toulouse GooseKirsten Lie-Nielsen continues our series on geese by introducing the largest of all goose breeds.

86

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10 Backyard Poultry

Volume 12, Number 1 : February/March 2017

ON THE COVER

General ManagerMike Campbell

[email protected]

EditorRyan Slabaugh

[email protected]

Circulation and FulfillmentLaura Ching, Ellen Soper, Lori Adams,

Christine Barkley

Bookstore ManagersAnn Tom

Sam Ingersoll [email protected]

Advertising Representatives 800-551-5691

Alicia Komanec [email protected]

Kelly Weiler [email protected]

Clint Lindell [email protected]

Publication Designer Malisa Samsel

Backyard Poultry’s Main CoopBackyard Poultry145 Industrial Dr.

Medford, WI [email protected]

Subscriptions (U.S. funds): $24.99 per year

Backyard Poultry Subscriptions145 Industrial Dr.

Medford, WI 54451 800-551-5691

Printed in the U.S.A.

Backyard Poultry

(ISSN 1559-2251, USPS 023-374)is published bi-monthly by Countryside Publications,

at 145 Industrial Dr., Medford, WI 54451. Periodicals postage paid at Medford, WI and additional

mailing offices. ©2016 Countryside Publications. The views presented here do not necessarily represent

those of the editor or publisher. All contents of this issue of Backyard Poultry are copyrighted

by Countryside Publications, 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited except

by permission of the publisher.

POSTMASTER:Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 707.4.12.5);

NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: send address corrections to Backyard Poultry

Subscriptions, 145 Industrial Dr., Medford, WI 54451

Backyard

Poultrywww.countrysidenetwork.com

Flying the CoopFrom Backyard Poultry

This issue will be my last as editor of Backyard Poultry magazine. While I get to move into a dream job as the new GM of Acres U.S.A., the nation’s longest-running organic farming and eco-agriculture publisher, I have to say goodbye to you all. You are my friends who tell me about your lives, call me “chicken guy,” and ask me for advice. You make this magazine what it is — fun, helpful and a celebration of all life.

On my first day four years ago, Elaine, the previous editor, sat down next to me and offered some advice.

“I didn’t know much about chickens when I start-ed,” she said, “but now I know more than you’d ever

want to know. The same will happen to you. Just give it time.”To prove the point, she told me a story about a reader who had a chicken

with a prolapsed egg, which caused her to recommend some minor surgery — hands-up-the-vent style. By the time she finished, I must’ve had a tortured look on my face, because she, and everyone else in the office, busted up laughing.

Little did I know that day that it would be the first of many laugh-until-it-hurt sessions. Since then, I started many days with a reader email that caused me to giggle, hoot or just spit up my coffee. The pure joy you shared with me is what I will miss the most, and a gift I will never forget.

All this sentimentality makes my office quite a scene now: me, tearful and smiling, writing this piece, looking at a picture of a chicken I’ve had on my desk since day one. I guess Elaine was right. I learned more than I ever thought I would. But it goes a bit deeper. I went and got attached to it all, which brings me to my advice for the next lucky editor: “The same thing will happen to you.”

Just give it time.

Ryan Slabaugh can be reached at [email protected]. If you yell out “chicken guy” in a room full of people, he’ll probably still answer.

Congratulations to Tim Slavicek from New Jersey. He won our February/March 2017 photo contest. See more entries, page 30.

Ryan Slabaugh Editor

12 Backyard Poultry

Do You Have Something To Crow About?

We want to hear from you. Send questions, comments, opinions, advice, coming events, etc. to: Backyard Poultry Editor, 145 Industrial Dr., Medford, WI 54451

or email [email protected]

Pecking for PerfectionIn the December 2016/January 2017

issue’s Poultry Talk section, there was a letter from Ruth Hill, “A Hen Getting Pecked.”

Roosters will attack, pick on and kill a hen, making a hen’s life miserable be-cause he feels she isn’t “right” or “good enough” for his harem. Here’s a case of a flock of bantam hens with their bantam rooster. Then you add a standard sized hen to his flock. He can’t mount her correctly, so she must go.

If one of “his” hens gets sick, has mental problems, visual problems or anything that isn’t normal, he will elimi-nate her from his flock. The fact that both roosters went for the same chicken means something is definitely wrong with it.

Give or trade that chicken to a roost-erless flock and all should be fine. But not Araucana hens or other breeds that are high strung. Hens can also pick on handicapped hens.

Cheryl BennettOregon

Thanks for the MemoriesThe gifts of your magazine have been

welcome for the pleasure of raising and learning about the chickens. It reminds me of when Linda, a school teacher, had a les-son for her third-graders, and when no one could care for the chickens, she took them home, and it raised much smoke from her neighbors and her family. She found a home on a farm, and Linda still misses them.

Anyway, thanks again for the memories.Kathleen SoleWest Virginia

Thanks You for Your SupportWe are so thankful for your great

magazine. Thank you for supporting our 4-H Club. Hope to see you next year!

4-H Club Kinnewick, Washington

A Coop to Show Off We would like to share some pictures

of our chicken coop with you.Lee Roy and Connie Duprie

Texas

Please Be More ScientificThis was my first issue of Backyard

Poultry (December 2016/January 2017) and while I enjoyed reading the more anecdotal content, I was concerned with the lack of strong scientific founding for some of the poultry management advice.

I understand that your target audience may not be the most scientifically savvy individuals, but I feel very strongly that communication of information related to the health and well-being of any creature, from backyard poultry to other humans, should be accurate and scientifically sound.

I have a PhD in Immunology from NCSU College of Veterinary Medicine and have worked as a research scientist for a major pharmaceutical company developing novel poultry vaccines. I have been around enough experts in poultry science over the years to know that they are an approachable lot and their advice is easy to come by. Beyond that, a simple Google Scholar search can provide a wealth of published information pertaining to a wide array of issues from peer reviewed journals. It is the ethical responsibility of the authors of any piece of public communication to fact check with reliable sources prior to disseminating their opinions or advice.

To provide you with more specific examples, I have gone through this article with comments on the sections I felt were questionable:

“Rosemary is a well known pesticide.” Rosemary extract when applied topically to insects will act as a fairly potent insecticide. However, if planted around your chicken coop, this would actually be an insect deterrent, as it will not directly kill pests such as mosquitoes, but will discourage them from entering that area. Beyond this, I have never had an issue with insects around my chicken coop as my flock of 10 systematically hunts and destroys anything that buzzes, wiggles or hops.

“Rosemary also contains anti-inflammatory properties.” I agree with this statement, but there should be more information available to the reader through citations. Rosemary extract at

www.countrysidenetwork.com 13February/March 2017

specific concentrations has been shown to be effective at reducing edema or swelling. The concentrations of specific chemical components can vary from plant to plant, but if the plants are being ground into a poultice and applied topically to treat swelling of the legs, this should be at least partially successful. However, if essential oil of rosemary is being directly applied, the concern then becomes overexposure, which can lead to detrimental effects such as irritation of the intestines, kidneys, skin and stomach. If the swelling does not resolve in a few days or there is continued irritation at the site of application, there may be a more serious problem and continued application of oil is only going to exacerbate the issue.

“Rosemary is thought to help staph infections.” This statement is false and is the actual motivation behind this letter. Rosemary extracts have been shown to interfere with the growth of some bacteria and fungi in culture in a laboratory setting including Salmonella, Listeria, and Streptococcus. However, it is not effective against Staphaureus. Furthermore, although there is promising evidence that chemicals found in certain herbal plant extracts could have applications as antimicrobials in the future, suggesting that someone treat an infections such as staph with essential oils is completely irresponsible. Advanced bumblefoot is extremely difficult to treat even with strong pharmaceutical grade antibiotics. I appreciate the desire to offer alternatives in an industry plagued by overuse of antibiotics but until there is solid evidence-based information for the effective management of bacterial infections with essential oils at specific dosing recommendations, antibiotics have to be used.

“Rosemary improves circulation ... contact ... will cause the oils to be absorbed.” As a general statement for this section as well as the preceding ones, the referenced studies were all performed in vitro (in a test tube or dish) in the lab with the exception of one study using rats. None of these activities or indications has been demonstrated in poultry. If one were to take the amount of extract used to treat cells or bacteria in each experiment and extrapolate the actual dose or exposure level required for an animal to obtain this concentration of compound at the tissue site, it becomes obvious that simple skin absorption will not be sufficient to induce any type of discernible event. It is worth noting that in one study, oregano was effective as an antimicrobial but was also toxic to animal cells at the same doses.

In summary, while I support open-minded approaches to animal husbandry I cannot support claims with no scientific founding, or worse, statements that directly contradict scientific evidence. I am constantly amazed by the newly discovered compounds that exist in nature. Penicillin wasn’t synthetically constructed in a high-tech lab, after all!

Michelle Miller’s Buff Brahma, Samwise Gamgee.

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However, by taking the time to research the subject matter and providing citations for readers to fact-check ad libitum, your writers will improve the quality of their work and the credibility of your publication. (Also, an advice column written by a veterinarian would be a fantastic edition.)

Thank you, for taking the time to read through my concerns and consider the implications of what I have written. I look forward to your responses and leave you with a picture of our fancy-footed Buff Brahma roo, Samwise Gamgee.

Michelle Miller

Editor’s Note: We thanked Michelle for keeping us honest. And then we asked her to write for us. Look for her byline on some health topics in upcoming issues.

A HootOn Oct. 14, I went and opened the

door so my chickens could get out in my garden. It’s about 5:30 in the morning and still dark out. I left for work about 6, and saw a shadow going off my garden gate in the headlights.

A beautiful villain, the one-eyed owl.


When I got to work, I called my husband to go and make sure the owl didn’t come back. He didn’t see him, but a bit later, the owl was in the chicken pen. Chickens were out, but he was with the three dead ones, so he shut the door because he couldn’t figure how to get out.

So I got home from work and got a couple of pictures, and started to cut the wire after we got the end all open. He, of course, flew out the door.

He came back for more and got one through the wire off the roost. Of course it was on the inside, on the ground, in the morning, because it couldn’t get through the wire. So I’ve moved all the chickens so no more problems. But all in all, he’s a very beautiful, one-eyed guy. I hope he makes it in your magazine. Thanks for such a great magazine.

Robin MillerWashington

A Picture of GratitudeFirst of all, I love your magazine!

There is so much great information and beautiful pictures, I have to read each issue at least 15 times! The Family Album and photo contest is almost my favorite part, so I just thought I’d send a few of my favorite pictures and hope to see them in the magazine some time. Y’all are great!

HannahNorth Carolina

Editor’s Note: Thanks Hannah! Look for her photos in an upcoming photo contest section.

Better Light IdeasWhat a poor system (“Daylight

Extender,” December 2016/January 2017). Such a light fixture as pictured might give enough light for four hens, plus a 60-watt bulb is not a good source of light. Have you not heard of fluorescent lights that give a light more like real light? An 8-foot light fixture gives enough light for a fair number of hens.

Wilson WhiteAlabama

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Volume 101 • Number 1JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2017

igniting the American Homesteading Dream

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Members set to get FREE survival foodFarmers vow to keep up with the demand to supply all Backyard Poultry members who call toll-free and beat the deadline to claim up to four free 72-hour survival food kits.

In a crisis, your number one need is food. But not just any food. What everyone needs is good-for-25-

years survival food that you can rely on when the time comes that food is scarce.

Well right now – in what is truly an unprecedented move – 72-hour survival food kits from Food4Patriots are being given away to Backyard Poultry members as long as they call a special toll-free hotline and beat the program deadline.

“The world is rapidly changing,” explained Tim Boyle, a spokesman for the company. “Every day Americans face very real threats. For sure, terrorism is a huge worry. But so are natural disasters like hurricanes, floods, tornados, and whatever else Mother Nature might have up her sleeve.”

“It’s more important than ever to be prepared.”

“Hey, we’ve seen what happens when a crisis hits. Stores quickly shut down or looted by hungry mobs. People forced to dig through dumpsters to find anything edible. Thousands standing in line to get a meal from FEMA or some other relief agency.

“That’s not what I want for my family or anyone else’s. Honestly, I believe each of us has a responsibility to ensure our loved ones will have the food they need to survive an emergency — without having to reply on handouts.”

Experts say that everyone should have at least a 72-hour supply of non-perishable food on hand at all times. Unfortunately, too many people make the mistake of choosing products that were never intended to be survival food. They end up with expensive stockpiles that are too big and too bulky to move, should an emergency force them to leave their homes.

Chances are, their foods were not packaged for a 25-year or moreshelf life. Most are not.

And if they were unlucky enough to stock up on MREs, they’ll be depending on a product that can actually make you sick if you eat it for too long.

Food4Patriots survival foods are made of the finest ingredients, grown and packaged right here in the USA. They taste great. They provide the nutrition you need. And they were developed specifically for use in emergencies – although a lot of folks sometimes like them for a quick meal or snack.

Boyle explained, “These are home-style meals that we package in airtight and resealable military-grade Mylar pouches that keep them fresh and delicious until they’re needed. Your family will enjoy meals much like they’re already eating every day.”

Every 72-hour kit that’s being given away contains four servings each of such familiar dishes as

Liberty Bell Potato Cheddar Soup, Blue Ribbon Creamy Chicken Rice, Travelers Stew, and the always loved Granny’s Homestyle Potato Soup.

The company’s usual price for the 72-hour kit is $27.00 plus shipping.But members who act quickly canclaim as many as four free kits andpay only a $9.95 fee to help covershipping and handling for each.

“We’re trying to ensure no members get left out, but they have to hurry because we have a limited supply of the 72-hour kits we can give away,” Boyle warned. “Once word got out that we were actually giving away free survival food, our phones have been ringing off the hook. We even had to add extra agents to keep up with the incredible demand.”

There is still time to take advantage of this free food offer, but be aware the program will end no matter what promptly at midnight, February 28, 2017.

HOW TO GET YOUR FREE 72-HOUR SURVIVAL FOOD KITS:Food4Patriots is committed to giving up to four free 72-hour kits to every Backyard Poultry member who calls their toll-free hotline. Just give the agent the approval code shown be-low. Provide your delivery instructions and agree to pay the $9.95 fee to help cover shipping and handling for each. That’s all there is to it.

Claim your free food kit today!

Freefoodkit39.comPlease note: Food4Patriots says they will continue to give away these 72-hour kits for as long as their supplies last. Due to media exposure, their phone lines may be busy. Just keep calling and you will get through.

Thousands have already claimed free Food4Patriots survival food kits. Giveaway ends 02/28/2017

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18 Backyard Poultry

COMING EVENTS:The Coming Events listing is gathered and provided by www.poultryshow

central.com. Add your show listing on their website or send to: Coming Events, Backyard Poultry, 145 Industrial Dr., Medford, WI 54451 or email [email protected].

To be included in the Backyard Poultry magazine listing, event details must be sent 60 days in advance. If you do not have access to website show listings,

please contact us for show specifics at 800-551-5691.

ALABAMA

February 4, 2017, Anniston, Alabama: Heart of Dixie Poultry Club Spring Double Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Heart_of_Dixie_Bantam_Show.html

February 25, 2017, Anniston, Alabama: Griffin and Griffith Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Griffith_Griffith_Poultry_Show.html

CALIFORNIA

February 3-5, 2017, Modesto, California: Pacific Poultry Breeders Association; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Pacific_Poultry_Breeders.html

February 4, 2017, Modesto, California: Pacific Serama Classic; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Pacific_Poultry_Breeders.html

February 11-12, 2017, Ferndale, California: Humboldt Poultry Fanciers Winter Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Humboldt_Poultry_Fanciers.html

February 17-20, 2017, Cloverdale, California: Cloverdale Citrus Fair; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Cloverdale_Citrus_Fair.html

February 25, 2017, Fresno, California: Greater California Society of Poultry Fanciers; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Greater_California_Society.html

March 11, 2017, Modesto, California: Stanislaus Co. Youth Poultry Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Stanislaus_Co_Youth.html

March 25-26, 2017, Red Bluff, California: Nor-Cal Poultry Association Open & Youth Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Nor_Cal_Poultry_Association_Show.html

FLORIDA

February 8-12, 2017, Tampa, Florida: Florida State Fair SPRING Purebred Poultry & Waterfowl Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Florida_State_Fair.html

February 20-26, 2017, Dade City, Florida: Pasco County Fair Youth Poultry Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Pasco_County_Fair.html

March 2-12, 2017, Plant City, Florida: Florida Strawberry Festival’s Youth Poultry Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/FLORIDA_STRAWBERRY_FESTIVAL.html

March 4, 2017, Inverness, Florida: Orange Blossom Special; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Central_Florida_Poultry_Breeders.html

GEORGIA

February 17-18, 2017, Newnan, Georgia: Chattahoochee Valley Poultry Association; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Chattahoochee_Valley_Poultry_Association.html

March 11, 2017, Dalton, Georgia: Carpet City Bantam Club Spring Fling; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Carpet_City_Bantam_Club.html

March 25, 2017, Dalton, Georgia: Northwest Georgia Poultry Club Winter Classic; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Northwest_Georgia_Poultry_Club_Calhoun.html

IOWA

March 17-18, 2017, Kalona, Iowa: Kalona Alternative Bird and Animal Auction; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Kalona_Sales_Barn.html

ILLINOIS

March 11, 2017, Anna, Illinois: Heartland Classic Poultry Association; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Heartland_Classic_Poultry_Association_Show.html

NORTH CAROLINA

February 25, 2017, Morganton, North Carolina: Old English Game Bantam Club of NC — Unifour All Breed Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Old_English_Bantam_Club.html

March 11, 2017, Smithfield, North Carolina: Cape Fear Poultry Association; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Cape_Fear_Feather_Fanciers.html

March 25, 2017, Winston-Salem, North Carolina: Forsyth Fowl Fanciers Spring Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Forsyth_Fowl_Fanciers.html

OHIO

March 17-19, 2017, Lima, Ohio: West Central Ohio Small Animal Swap; www.poultryshowcentral.com/West_Central_Ohio_Small_Animal_Swap.html

March 18-19, 2017, Lima, Ohio: West Central Ohio Poultry Club; www.poultryshowcentral.com/West_Central_Ohio_Poultry_Breeders.html

March 23-25, 2017, Mt Hope, Ohio: Mid Ohio Alternative Animal and Bird Sale; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Mid_Ohio_Swap.html

March 25, 2017, Marietta, Ohio: Southeast Ohio Poultry Breeders Association; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Southeast_Ohio_Poultry_Breeders.html

OKLAHOMA

February 4, 2017, Norman, Oklahoma: Canadian Valley Poultry Club Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Canadian_Valley_Poultry_Club_Show.html

OREGON

February 11, 2017, Canby, Oregon: Winter Poultry and Homesteading Faire; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Oregon_Winter_Poultry_Swap.html

SOUTH CAROLINA

February 4, 2017, Barnwell, South Carolina: Sandlappers Poultry Breeders Association; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Sandlappers.html

February 25, 2017, Edgefield, South Carolina: Governors Classic; www.poultryshowcentral.com/ Sweetwater_Grange_Poultry_Show.html

March 18, 2017, Lake City, South Carolina: Pee Dee Poultry Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Pee_Dee_Poultry_Show.html

TENNESSEE

February 18, 2017, Lawrenceburg, Tennessee: Lawrence County Poultry Club Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Lawrence_County_Poultry_Club.html

TEXAS

February 11-12, 2017, Comanche, Texas: Comanche Crossroads; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Comanche_Crossroads.html

March 4, 2017, LaGrange, Texas: South Central Texas Classic; www.poultryshowcentral.com/South_Central_Texas_Classic.html

March 11, 2017, New Braunfels, Texas: Fancy Feathers Open Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Fancy_Feathers_Open_Show.html

March 31-April 8, 2017, Dallas, Texas: North Texas Poultry Showcase; www.poultryshowcentral.com/North_Texas_Poultry_Showcase.html

UTAH

March 4, 2017, Farmington, Utah: Utah Fancy Poultry Association; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Utah_Fancy_Poultry_Association_Show.html

WASHINGTON

February 25, 2017, Ridgefield, Washington: Prairie Hatchers Youth Poultry Show & Chick Auction; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Prairie_Hatchers_Youth_Poultry_Show.html

March 18, 2017, Monroe, Washington: Washington Feather Fanciers Cascade Spring Show; www.poultryshowcentral.com/Washington_Feather_Fanciers_Cascade.html

CANADA

February 4-5, 2017, Sarnia, Ontario: Sarnia Poultry, Pigeon and Pet Stock Association Pigeon Show; www.poultry showcentral.com/Sarnia_Poulty_Pigeon.html

TOUR D’ CLUCK EVENTS: CARGILL DEALERS (CENTRAL TIME LISTED)

March 4, 2017, 11 a.m., Mazomanie, Wisconsin: Mazo Hardware 17 W. Commercial St., Mazomanie, WI; 608-354-4498. Topics: Chicks 101, General Nutrition. Call the store for more details. Although it is a free event, registration may be required.

March 7, 2017, 6 p.m., Center Point, Iowa: Interstate Grain Services 4207 Grain Lane, Center Point, IA: 319-849-1157; Tuesday, March 7, 6 p.m. Topics: Chicks 101, General Nutrition. Call the store for more details. Although it is a free event, registration may be required.

March 28, 2017, 6 p.m., Janesville, Wisconsin: Jack & Dicks Feed & Garden 975 South Jackson St., Janesville, WI: Tuesday, March 28, 6 p.m. Topics: Chicks 101, General Nutrition. Call the store for more details. Although it is a free event, registration may be required.

May 3, 2017, 6 p.m., Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin: Door County Coop, 317 Green Bay Rd., Sturgeon Bay, WI: Topics: Chicks 101, Meat birds, and Brooder to Flock. Call the store for more details. Although it is a free event, registration may be required.

Follow our Nutrena® Chicken & Poultry Feed page on Facebook.facebook.com/NutrenaChickenFeed

Follow our Nutrena® Chicken & Poultry Feed page on Facebook.facebook.com/NutrenaChickenFeed

22 Backyard Poultry

helpful hints

I have wanted chickens for a while now for the eggs and meat. They provide the added benefit of eating

bugs and ticks out of the garden as well as supplying manure.

I not only wanted dual-purpose birds, but birds that could handle the Wisconsin winters. While I know the color of the eggs does not matter when it comes to the quality of what’s inside, I wanted a rainbow of egg colors, so I purchased white layers, different shades of brown layers (some speckled), and a few Easter Eggers. By the time I count-ed up all the hens, I came up with 23

of them. Then I added two roosters to the mix. This way I won’t have to buy chicks anymore.

Getting Ready for My New Arrivals

I set up the brooder before the chicks arrived. I was given this nice commercial brooder to use. It was great, but I didn’t like the idea of the chicks being in such a confined space for the first two weeks of their life. I decided to use the brooder as my “hospital” in case one or more of the chicks became sick or injured.

A friend bought a brand-new grill,

and I was given the box, which turned out to be a great brooder. It was three feet wide, five feet long and 30 inches tall. The width is plenty big enough for the birds, and the height blocks any stray breezes. I put the box inside a swimming pool as a “just in case” for leaks.

I decided to use a spare bedroom to keep my chicks in. In that way, I could check on them before I left for work. After the box was in place, I used wood shavings for the bedding (one to two inches thick) to absorb the spillage from the water dish and make a nice bed for the birds.

The First Two Weeks of a Chicken’s Life

Early Care is Important to Establishing a Chick’s New Home

By Romie holl

wisconsin

Keeping your chicks warm, well-fed and

watered is important. Checking on them

regularly for illness and other abnormalties is also

especially important.


Across the box, I hung a heat lamp to keep the chicks warm at all times. When you choose a lamp, make sure it is a red bulb. If you use a clear bulb that emits white light, there is a greater chance of the chicks picking on each other. I also provided the chicks with a waterer (gal-lon) and the two-foot chick feeders (two feet can handle up to 50 chicks at once).

You will also notice that I had a thermometer in the box, and the lamp is on a chain. You want to adjust the lamp so the temperature is between 90 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. This is only for the first initial setup. After the chicks are in place, you should watch their behavior to determine whether you need to lower or raise the heat.

The last thing I did before my chicks arrived was buy their food. I decided to get organic chick feed (soy-based, not fish-based). I purchased “chick starter grower, 20 percent crumble.” I bought a 35-pound bag to last roughly a month for my 25 chicks.

The Chicks Arrive One Wednesday morning, I got a call

from the post office and was told my chicks had arrived. As soon as I walked

in, I could hear them. The size of the box surprised me — it was only 12 inches square and eight inches tall.

Opening the box, I was happy to see that all the birds arrived without a prob-lem. They were happily chirping away. Before handling the chicks, I washed my hands with soap and warm water to prevent spreading germs to them.

Chicks sometimes have a hard jour-ney, and they can use the extra energy provided by adding sugar to their water for a few days. Before I put the water in the waterer, I added one-quarter cup of sugar and mixed it in with the water.

I dipped each of their beaks into the sugar water. They automatically swal-lowed the water and then started drinking. A lot of times when they arrive they are dehydrated and need the water right away.

After they were done drinking, they started looking around and found the food. I should mention here that the placement of both the food and water are important, as you don’t want them to defecate in the water or food dish. You also don’t want it too high where they can’t reach it easily. I found that placing the food and water at their neck height is perfect, and as they grew, I raised it

to match the shortest chick. You can do this by putting boards under the waterer and feeder, or getting ones that hang on a chain. You change the height by chang-ing the links on the chain. I started off with feeders that sat on the ground, but within a week I was able to go to the hanging feeder.

At night, I checked on the chicks, not only for the food and water, but to see how they were sleeping. They automat-ically adjust themselves to the heat that they require. If they are directly below the light, it means you need to lower the light to give them more heat. If they are far away from the light, it means you need to raise the light to make it cooler for them.

At least every other day, I handled my chicks (washing my hands before and after, of course). There are several reasons you want to handle your chicks. If they get used to your touch, it will be easier to take the eggs in the future. You also want to check their vent and make sure it is clean.

There are several ways to clean them, normally a paper towel and warm water works just fine, but sometimes the excrement is caked on. In this situation, you need a little elbow grease to get ev-

Having the brooder ready for the chicks is key, as well as having at least one bag of food in the house and ready.

24 Backyard Poultry

erything clean. For my chicks, I filled a bowl with slightly warm water and held their backsides in there for 30 seconds to loosen everything up. The excrement then wiped clean. All the chicks went “still” once they were in the water. I’m not sure if that was because they were shocked or they really liked the warm bath.

Watching Them Grow It was truly amazing to watch them

grow. After a week, they were still furry

but they could fill my hand. When they got taller, I took away the feeder that sat on the ground and started using the hanging feeder. This holds more food (a gallon) so I had to fill it less often. Plus, being on a chain it was easier to adjust the height.

At 10 days, the chicks were still fuzzy, but at 14 days, they were growing their feathers and starting to try and fly around inside the box. This was an indication that

they are ready to leave the brooder and move into the chicken coop.

I had a friend’s three children (ages 5 to 9) help move the chicks, and they were excited to be able to carry and put the chicks in their new home.

I kept the chickens inside the coop for two weeks. This instilled in them that this is home, where they get their food and water. After the two weeks, I let them out to roam inside the fenced-in area.

One Wednesday morning, I got a call

from the local post office and was told my

chicks are there. As soon as I walked in, I

could hear them.

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Rooster’s rock! They are beautiful, ma-jestic, and handsome gents, and I love them … well, some of them.

Such characters! They are the protectors of our flocks, our morning alarm clocks, and with-

out them there would be no chicks to feather our pockets or our backyard stocks. Without roosters there would be no cute baby chicks, and defi-nitely less meat for the table. Last, but not least, without roosters, hens would soon be extinct, and

Cock-A-Doodle … Don’t?Finding Roosters a Good Home is Something Most Urban

Poultry Raisers Will Need to Figure Out

helpful hints

By linda white-fRancis

floRida


at best hens would be just another female bird, and not especially ornamental since roosters (as with all other male birds) are the prettier of the species. Yes, roosters are special and we need them. They are very interesting creatures to watch because they are plucky, and smart, and capable, in many cases, of being tamed almost as easily as a hen.

Yet, they can sometimes pose prob-lems one cannot tolerate and can no longer be called a friend. Roosters problems come in several definitions — good, bad or ugly. If not nipped in the bud, things can quickly get out of hand, but there are some great solutions out there other than stew.

The three more important stressful problems one could encounter as owners of roosters are:

• Aggressiveness;

• Too many roosters to support a small volume of hens; and

• Residential county code bans.

Any of these three dilemmas can become a serious issue and must be ad-dressed hastily or suffer the consequenc-es. However, by doing your homework and staying aware, your perseverance and proactivity will help to resolve your individual rooster dilemmas. Then life can move on with less stress, and more fun. So don’t worry, and get going!

Here are several sce-narios one could encounter when roosters are intro-duced to the barnyard.

What if that handsome rooster with the stunning crown of a king, the proud chest of a decorated gener-al, and a sweeping tail of colorful sea oats, suddenly becomes aggressive? Once a fuzzy gentle chick, now the brute corners you in the barnyard and attacks your ankles and knees until they bleed. Need I say more? He will soon be gone. Right?

What if that little flock of 15 hens, once content and happy pullets, have become so bedraggled and naked from more romantic encounters than any one

hen should have to endure? And, no wonder, each lady is battling six roosters daily that should have been pared down months ago. And speaking of battling, the roosters themselves are looking none too pretty either. The competition has become so great among these pompous Lotharios’ life. For them, it has become a battle royal, and when the spurs come out, so does the blood. At least four of those sexy blackguards will have to go. Right?

What if one day you hear a knock at the door and there stands a county code enforcement officer named Joe Law? “Do you own a rooster?” he asks politely.

“Yes,” you answer, only to find chickens are forbidden in certain areas of the county where you live. You are surprised and crestfallen because you

were not aware in recent years this ordinance had been implemented. Now you are looking at a stiff fine and con-fiscation of your beautiful flock: rooster and all. You must comply. What do you do now? You can either sell your flock immediately or move to the country. Right?

We have all heard the old adage, “Hindsight is always keener than fore-sight.” Most of the time when unwise decisions have been made, it is nobody’s fault but our own. It can be especially so when one has become unduly attached to that adorable rooster you may have hatched from an egg. Eventually, and regretfully, one often resorts to selling a rooster, trading a rooster for a hen, or giving the rooster or roosters away to a good home. Boom! There’s your answer. Problem solved. Buying a new

Roosters are important to

many coops, but managing them in urban areas takes awareness of their surroundings and understanding of

the law.

28 Backyard Poultry

home in the country like my eccentric friend Colette did, so she could keep her rooster, may not always be an option.

According to the experts, a hatch is usually a 50-50 split between roosters to hens. But I have found this not always to be true. In my experience, I have often seen a higher ratio of roosters. But, who really knows why? Genetics are a bit of a random science.

Another example for ratio doubts can unfortunately be blamed on barnyard hens that are clumsy with their eggs and chicks, as well her sisters, who love to interfere when mother hen leaves her clutch or brood unattended while she takes a break. Shamelessly, the jealous aunties may invade the mother hen’s nest and try to take over. Eggs can be crushed and newborn chicks can be injured or killed during these unjust ventures. Proof there can be extenuating circumstances for throwing off the ratio theory. Nev-ertheless, decide early whether you are going to sell the chicks right away or hang on to them until the first cock-a-doodle-doo gives you the clue. Everyone has a

special set of circumstances to consider, and deciding wisely is the only way to go.

I remember my first problem rooster was a Silkie named Rupert. He and five hens were mail-order chicks I enjoyed watching grow up. Rupert was a beauti-ful white bird who looked harmless as a kitten, but when that little devil became 4 months old, he turned on me like a hungry tiger. I decided after a couple months dealing with his painful assaults on my wrists, knees and ankles, he had to go, and the sooner the better, but first I took a few beautiful pictures of him. I then construct-ed a concise ad, listing all his particulars with a fair but low price. I then published it on my favorite website. I soon received a positive response from a fellow who wanted to trade me an O-Shamo hen for my Silkie rooster. The man had decided to raise Silkies exclusively, and Rupert was perfect for him. I was okay with his offer, and the rooster got a good home in a lovely seaside town about an hour away. And, I got an interesting game bird in exchange. Saki joined my other hens and never gave me a minute’s trouble.

Roosters problems come in several definitions —good, bad or ugly. If not nipped in the bud, things can quickly get out of hand, but there are some great solutions out there other than stew.

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Selling an unwanted rooster may be more important to you than culling the rooster, especially if you raised them from the egg.

Here are a few suggestions for selling roosters and finding them a good home:

Speaking from experience, I have found Craigslist.com to be the best place for me to find great homes for my roost-ers, but there are a myriad of other ways to sell your unwanted roosters, such as your local newspaper or trade papers; feed store corkboards; 4-H clubs; and other social media outlets. Additionally, make a point of talking chicken every-where you go. Believe me, word of mouth works. Try looking up online chicken rescue services in your area, as they may help you either place the rooster or take it in; ask if you can post an ad at the post

office or grocery store; keep a list of all your prior chick buyers and give them a call, as they just might want to buy a rooster or do a trade. Try some creative thinking. Surprise yourself; roosters ar-en’t really that hard to sell if you apply your own creativity.

Editor’s note: Be careful using Craig-slist.com when trading or purchasing birds, and make sure you are not getting scammed. We recommend looking at the birds before you ever agree to buy them.

Linda White-Francis writes and rais-es poultry in Holiday, Florida

30 Backyard Poultry

Send Your Photo(s) Today!

February/March 2017

Family AlbumBackyard Poultry

The February/March 2017 cover photo was submitted by Tim Slavicek, New Jersey.

Pepper and her brook (are) taking in some New Jersey sunshine.

February/March 2017Winner

PhotoContest

King Roo watching his flock.—Kerrie Sheffield, California


Each issue’s winner will be displayed in the position of honor—on the front cover of the magazine!Photos must relate in some way to poultry or their products. No limit on number of entries. Attach your name,

address, phone number or e-mail and photo caption or description to each photo (not on the front, please).Backyard Poultry retains the right to publish and/or reproduce any and all photos submitted in future issues or

publicity, with or without mention of source.To have your photos returned, please include a self-addressed stamped envelope.Send your entry to: Backyard Poultry Photo Contest, 145 Industrial Dr., Medford, WI 54451;

or e-mail photos in jpg format to [email protected].

Photo Contest GuidelinesSend Your Photo(s) Today!

Louisa May Alcock and her eight blue Cochin bantam chicks and one black cheep. There is one in every family.—David Cheatham, Tennessee

This is a picture of my granddaughter and my chickens. She is the biggest animal lover I have ever seen and would spend hours in the chicken house hand feeding the chicks.—Sharon Daggett, Illinois

We recently had our first experience with a hen successfully hatching a clutch of eggs. It was an eye opener to see how motherly a chicken can be. She took excellent care of her nine chicks, including ensuring they had space on our highest roost.—Caleb Jacomet, Ohio

32 Backyard Poultry

Beauty: Photos should be just plain pretty enough to be placed on the cover. Think ver-

tical with some space on top for a masthead. Many otherwise perfect photos are taken in a way that makes it impossible to display them in the position of honor on the front cover of the magazine. If we won’t be able to do it justice, the judges will avoid awarding it first place.

• Clarity: The judges will be scrutinizing this aspect thoroughly and will only award first place to clear photos that can be enlarged to cover size without loss of clarity.

• Conciseness: Photos are better if there isn’t too much clutter or aren’t too many things going on.

• Good Photos tell a story.

Tips to Make Your Photo a Winner

Be On TheCould Your Photo

Next Cover?

Our 3-day-old Belgian D’Anver chicks.—Haley Hagstrom, Washington

“Family Outing.” Silkie hen with chicks.—R. Matthew Poteat, Virginia

“Taking Cover.” We are fairly new to backyard chickens and have been having a wonderful time watching our mama hen with her babies.—Cathy Novak, North Carolina


We have a broody Silvered Spangled Appenzeller Spitzhauben named Cruella De Vil. She’s normally very flighty but has decided to go the distance on six or so eggs (some hers, some not). We're going to let it play out and are hoping for chicks!—Kelly Thomas, New Hampshire

“Mother Hen.”—Lauren Reenders, Michigan

This is my hen named Eleanor. She loves the camera!—Julie Banning, North Carolina

34 Backyard Poultry

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To request a bookstore catalog, call 1-800-551-5691 or write to: Bookstore Catalog Request, 145 Industrial Dr., Medford, WI 54451 or for a complete list of books visit www.CountrysideNetwork.com.

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36 Backyard Poultry

Poultry Talk

health

Ron kean Extension Poultry SpecialistUniversity of Wisconsin-Madison

pam fReeman

Forums Coordinatorcountrysidenetwork.com

You Ask Expert Poultry Questions, We Give Expert Poultry Answers

Shade for Chickens?I just wanted to tell you how much I

enjoy your magazine. My mother-in-law gets it, gives it to me, and I pass it on to another friend who has chickens. We all enjoy it.

I’m enclosing some pictures. My husband built me a new chicken house

this summer and we got busy haying and didn’t get a shade put on the outside pen. I put up an old card table over the little door to the pen. They have really enjoyed it. They sit on it and I always tell them to “deal me in” when I go out there, or I ask, “Who’s winning?”

Anyway, I would like some ideas on a portable shade, one I could put up in the summer but take down in the winter. Any ideas?

Susan SandersonNebraska

Hi Susan,It’s great that you’re thinking of ways

to give your chickens shade in the summer. Helping them stay cool during the hot times of year is critical to their good health. Fortunately, there are lots of portable and removable shade options. Beach umbrellas can provide shade for humans and chickens alike. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to find. Also, the canopy tents people use for sporting events and camping create great shade areas for chickens. Many of the canopy tents also have anchors to hold them in place. There are so many options, but these two are perhaps the easiest and most convenient to find.

Best of luck!

How Old are These Toms?I live in the woods and we have two tom

turkeys that come in two or three times a day for the scratch and water I put out for them. They respond to my voice, know the sound of the feed barrels, love to be talked to and let me within three feet of them.

Is there any way to estimate their age by the length of their “beards”? When they’re eating they drag on the ground. They’ve been coming in for two years now.

Spring is very interesting when the ladies come around.

Doree JulianoNew Hampshire

Hi Doree,Correctly judging the age of a wild tur-

key is not an exact science. There are a lot of references from hunters. You can tell if a turkey is immature (a jake) or not by looking at the tail feathers. A jake’s tail feathers will be irregular when they are standing up with the middle feathers being higher than the feathers on the sides. Their beards will stick out and not down and they’re only a few inches long. The beard on a mature bird is much longer and can drag the ground. Some hunters say a 2-year-old tom’s beard will be about five to seven inches. A 3-year-old tom’s beard will be about eight inches or more. It sounds like your turkeys are around 3 years old or more from your description.

Do Chickens Have Ribs?I hope this finds you well. I have a ques-

tion. It may seem like a dumb question to you, but it’s something I’ve never thought of, even though I’ve eaten a lot of chicken. So you can help with this.

In the dining hall, we are served a piece of meat called a “chicken riblet.” Do chickens have ribs, or is this just part of the breast?

Rickey WyattNorth Carolina

If you have health-related poultry questions, send them to us at Backyard Poultry, Attn: Answer Man, 145 Industrial Dr., Medford, WI 54451 or email to [email protected]. All submissions will be considered for print publication.

Please include your name and hometown with your questions, which should be as detailed as possible. Pictures help us answer questions, so please include those too!


Hi Rickey,Yes, chickens do have ribs. We just

featured a series on the biology of the chicken. In that series, the skeletal system was discussed. The author, Thomas L. Fuller, described the rib cage best. His information is quoted below.

“There are seven pairs of ribs that orig-inated from the thoracic vertebrae forming the rib cage. All but the first and second pairs attach to the sternum in a unique fash-ion. Again adaptation for flight mandates a strong rib cage called the uncinate process. This process involves hooked flaps that overlay and connect adjacent ribs by a ligament to avoid collapse of the thoracic cavity (ribcage) during flight.”

Good question!

A Bad (Good) DogI have a 5-month-old mountain cur pup

who has a bad habit of chasing my chick-ens. She has killed two of my 4-month-old Silkie bantam chicks. How can I teach her to leave them alone? She only does it when nobody is around.

Question number two is, why such slippery, glossy pages? Thanks for the great magazine.

Junior WengerdMillersburg, Ohio

Hi Junior,It’s best not to leave your new pup

alone with your chickens until she is prop-erly trained. There are many techniques that are discussed in the chicken world about how to train dogs to leave chickens alone. While some may work and others may not, it’s better to be safe than sorry. A dog trainer that will come to your house is probably the best course of action. Many chicken owners report excellent results when working with a professional.

New Chickens but No Eggs?We now have six chickens in our Mil-

lennium Chicken, our chicken coop named by our dad. We used to have seven, but they all got picked off one-by-one by coyotes. All except two, our rooster who survived the coyote attack (his bottom feathers are still growing back) and an Easter Egg layer named Gigi who laid green eggs. We got new chickens a few months ago, and ever since she hasn’t laid an egg. The five other chickens, the newcomers, are old enough to lay, but they haven’t. Is

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38 Backyard Poultry

anything wrong? And do the new chickens affect Gigi’s laying?

Mia PatelTexas

Hi Mia,Stress can affect laying. It sounds like

Gigi has experienced a lot of stress recent-ly both from predation and newcomers being added. Unless you see signs that she is sick, it’s best to make sure she has plenty of food, fresh water and a clean coop. She’ll most likely start laying again when she’s comfortable.

As for the newcomers, they can lay as early as 16 weeks, but most birds take a little longer; especially if they are a heri-tage breed. It’s hard to wait, but try to be patient. They will lay when they’re ready.

Male-to-Hen Ratio?I have Muscovy ducks and I want to

know if I need a male for each hen?Winnifred Badgerow

Hi Winnifred,No need for one male for each hen.

That will lead to over-mating. A good

minimum amount is one drake for every four to five females.

Some side notes on Muscovy gender traits: Many individuals believe that Mus-covies are more of a goose than a duck. For instance, they do not quack. Many people like this trait since they are “quiet” ducks. The males make a “hissing” sound while the females make a sound known as a “pip.” This “pip” is a very exotic sounding call. It is somewhat similar to a flute quickly alternating between the notes F and G. Also, their eggs take lon-ger to hatch than other duck eggs — 35 days. Unlike all other breeds of ducks, Muscovies did not originate from the wild Mallard.

Good luck with your flock!

What Causes Them to Die?I am really sad. I have lost three

hens this last year. I de-worm, feed med-icated feed, and I clean the coop often. What happens is kind of like a head tic. They walk off balance. Please help and thank you.

Johnny Hitchcock

Hi Johnny,Without common symptoms, it’s hard

to diagnose why your birds are dying. But the first thing we would check is if you have enough drinking water. Dehydration can cause this. An injury, or a bump to the head, could also be a consideration.

There are several diseases that could cause this. Fowl cholera, caused by the bacteria Pasteurella multocida, is fairly common in turkeys and less-so in chickens. There are several viral diseases that can cause this, too. Many, but not all, of them are accompanied by respiratory problems.

We aren’t sure where you are located, but here in Wisconsin, summers have us nearly overrun with mosquitoes. A viral disease called equine encephalomyelitis is transmitted by mosquitoes and causes circling or staggering in poultry. Symptoms get progressively worse and usually cause death. We are not saying that is what your hens have, but it is a possibility.

We would suggest contacting your local veterinarian to see if they can look into this case by performing a health check on your remaining birds. Or, you can send your bird to be examined post mortem and a diagnosis

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can be given that way. We would suggest contacting your local extension service and they can let you know where a necropsy can be performed.

We hope you’re able to diagnose and treat your problem quickly.

Do Small Eggs Equal Small Hens?

I have 7-month-old Wyandottes that have just started laying. I know it’s normal for the first eggs to be smaller than usual. My question is: If I hatch these smaller eggs, will the chicks from them grow up smaller than normal or will they eventually be full-size Wyandottes?

Mark Hoy Salcha, Alaska

Hi Mark,They should eventually get to their ex-

pected full size. They may grow a bit more slowly. This has been studied in broilers, and chicks from small eggs take a few days longer to get to market size. Genetically, though, your chicks will have the same ge-netics as if they hatched from a larger egg, so they should grow just as large. Best of luck with your new flock.

Egg-Eaters?Why does a hen and rooster occasion-

ally eat an egg?Kathy Briggs

Hi Kathy,Eggs are not only a great source of

nutrition for humans, they’re also a great source of nutrition for your chickens. You can actually scramble up your eggs and feed them directly to your birds. On a cold fall/winter/early spring day, they’ll love the warmth and the extra protein. If your hen or rooster occasionally eats an egg, they are simply looking for a good snack. Just make sure your chickens have some free range and activity time every day so they don’t get bored and make egg eating a habit. Then you’ll have no eggs for yourself! Good luck!

An Unruly DuckWhy is my duck chasing and harassing

my chickens all of a sudden?Jammie Mittlestead

Hi Jammie,We would guess that you have a male

duck and not enough female ducks. We would recommend at least three to four fe-

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40 Backyard Poultry

male ducks per drake. And separating them is a good idea if it gets to be too much. We have had other readers say their drakes have injured their hens trying to mate.

We hope this is helpful!

How Do I Get Them To Be Broody?I live in Spain and my Embden goose is

laying one egg every other day but she does not sit. Please give me advice.

Walt CondeSpain

Hi Walt,It’s good to hear from one of our readers

in Spain. Your question, though, is not as inviting as your beaches. It’s a tough one. Embden is a breed that is usually strong with going broody, but as we know, there are always exceptions to the rule.

Giving them a safe space to nest and sit would be a good place to start. We would suggest building a separate area for her to be broody, as from our experience, one of the main reasons geese will not sit is due to fear (or shyness). We have also heard success from breeders by decreasing protein levels in their diet, as well as making sure they have

enough daylight. But that gets more compli-cated, and you can actually cause damage by changing daylight suddenly or experi-mentally, so we suggest starting by building her a safe nest that’s away from everyone/everything, and seeing if that doesn’t help.

Also, this could just be a timing issue. Sometimes, geese will not go broody until they have laid several eggs. Keeping a few of the eggs in the nest, and the rest of the eggs alive until then might be your chore, and you can add the eggs back carefully once she has decided to go broody.

Anyway, we hope this helps!

Why Aren’t They Laying?My name is Gabe Clark. I have been

raising chickens for the past couple of months. I have five chickens total. There are three hens and two roosters. I have one hen and one rooster in a separate pen with a nesting box inside. And the other roaster and hens are in a coop with a small run outside. It is plenty big enough for them.

They are now 18 weeks old, and I ha-ven’t even seen the slightest sign of eggs. They are starting to lay down in the nesting boxes, but haven’t even tried to lay yet. I

feed them layer crumble and change their water every three days. This is because they have a big container and it stays clean for a few days before I dump out the rest and refill it. I have hay in the coop for them to “bed” in. Why aren’t there any eggs yet? Am I doing something wrong? And by the way, my chickens have been looking scared recently and I can’t pet them because the rooster thinks he is the alpha and will fly and claw at my legs. He got me good the other day, so I stopped trying to go in. I’m just worried is all. Thanks for your time!

Hi Gabe,No need to worry. Your hens will lay

eggs and their timeline is completely nor-mal. Eighteen weeks is the minimum age for egg laying. In reality, it usually takes most hens a little longer to lay eggs.

Our bigger concern is that you don’t have a good ratio of hens to roosters. For each rooster you have in a flock, you should have 10 to 12 hens. For two roosters, your total number of hens should be 20 to 24. This helps to prevent over-mating and damage to your hens.

We hope this is helpful.

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42 Backyard Poultry

Q I have a broody hen sitting on eggs that will hatch in a few days. What

should I feed her and her new baby chicks? It seems like it will be nearly impossible to feed her layer feed while feeding the chicks their chick feed. And how can I keep the rest of the flock from eating the chicks’ food?

A: I actually recommend sepa-rating a broody hen and her chicks from the rest of the flock. That serves two purposes: it keeps the chicks safe from the older hens and rooster until they’re a bit bigger, and also keeps the older hens from eat-ing all the chicks’ feed. Although a broody hen will usually protect her chicks from the others, I like to give her the chance to care for her babies instead of having to always be vigi-lant, so separating them works well for both these reasons. The best way to separate the new family is to put them in a small cage or dog crate right on the floor of your coop. That way the older hens get used to the chicks right from the start, making eventual integration very seamless, and the chicks are exposed to the various environmental bacteria and pathogens in small doses and start building up their immune systems.

As for feed, the broody hen and the chicks can all eat chick feed. Layer feed has added calci-

um that can be harmful to the chicks and cause kidney problems later in life, so you don’t want to feed them layer feed. The added calcium is necessary for laying hens to make strong eggshells, but since a broody hen won’t start laying eggs again until her chicks are five weeks or older, she will be fine eating the chick feed (which has lower calcium levels) until the chicks are ready for grower feed at about eight weeks of age. Like-ly by that time, the mother hen will have abandoned her brood and will have returned to the flock, leaving the chicks on their own.

Q: What kinds of treats can I feed my chicks?

A: While your chicks’ diet should be mostly comprised of chick feed, which is balanced for optimal health, adding a few nu-tritious treats won’t hurt them. If you watch a mother hen outside with her chicks, she will point out bugs, worms, seeds, berries and weeds to the chicks, so I like to keep chick treats along those same lines. Chopped grass and fresh herbs such as basil, parsley, sage and oregano

are especially nutritious, as are small seeds like sesame or sun-flower seeds. Just be sure to chop anything you give to your chicks into small pieces and provide grit for them. (Since chickens don’t have teeth, they need small stones or coarse dirt — grit — to help them grind up and digest what they eat. A small dish of coarse dirt will suffice for your chicks, or if they spend time outside with the mother hen, they’ll pick up enough small gravel and pebbles on their own.) Scrambled eggs or oatmeal are also healthy treats for baby chicks. As an added bonus a bit of raw rolled oats can help clear up pasty butt, which is an ailment that can affect chicks, especially those that have been shipped from hatcheries.

healthy feed Questions and answeRs By lisa steele

Lisa Steele is the author of Fresh Eggs Daily: Raising Happy, Healthy Chickens…Naturally (St. Lynn’s Press, 2013). She lives on a small hobby farm in Maine with her husband and their flock of chickens and ducks, two dogs and a barn cat. She is a fifth-generation chicken keeper and writes about her experiences on her award-winning blog at www.fresheggsdaily.com. In her free time, she loves to garden, bake, knit and sip homebrewed herbal teas.

this issue’s topic: Broody Hens and Chicks

44 Backyard Poultry

CoopInspiration

Do you have a fun story behind your chicken coop, or just some really

cool design ideas? We’d love to share them with our readers. Email us at

[email protected] with a few pictures and a story

about your coop!


The Coop de Ville

Here are a few photos of a very unique chicken coop that my husband and I just completed. We retrofitted a 1960s horse trailer, complete with white wall tires, into a coop that houses seven hens. The Coop de Ville has become a destination on our property for family, friends and neighbors to enjoy and we love to share them with Backyard Poultry readers.

The “girls” are quite spoiled. I make them a green salad most every day, and they are allowed to free range

a few days a week as well. Our old coop and run was very exposed to predators and we have our share of great horned owls lurking around, so we decided to basically create Fort Knox to protect them. We have three Wel-summers, two Jersey Giants, one Barred Rock and one Buff Orphington — all named of course.

We live outside of Salem, Oregon, in the Northwest Valley, and the coop is located under a canopy of trees, so as it stays fairly cool even on the hot summer days.

Photos by Scott and Angela Dye

By scott and angela dye

oRegon

46 Backyard Poultry

A re you thinking about raising chickens but wondering what kind of coop will work best?

There are a lot of options and I’ve found you have to do what fits your goals and environment.

On our farm we’ve always used mo-bile coops because we let our bird’s free range during the day. We prefer this style for raising chickens for the following reasons.

• Less cleaning;

• Less grass destruction;

• No ongoing wood shaving expense;

• Droppings fertilize the pasture; and

• Helps establish a healthy independent flock.

Our mobile coop is placed in a pas-ture. This area provides a welded wire fence and guard animals to protect against sky and ground predators. We’ve had suc-cessful results with a fraction of the effort.

Chores were decreased because there is no major coop cleaning; you simply push the structure forward every other day onto fresh grass, which takes about two minutes. About once a month the roosting bars are washed off with a garden hose and the nest bedding is changed when necessary.

The mobile coop is free from bad aromas that can be associated with raising chickens. Their environment reflects fresh country air and a pleasure to approach.

Food and water dishes can be stored in or outside, and I like to keep their food

outside the coop as feed is a supplement and water can be found in small troughs nearby.

If the idea of a mobile chicken coop sounds appealing then you may want to consider raising your new or existing flock in a coop similar to the one we’re going to build.

The Coop Project This is a fun project and very easy to

modify for small, medium or large flocks. The house is a 7-by-3-foot frame and will fit up to 12 to 14 chickens.

With this coop the chickens would sleep here at night and lay eggs in nesting boxes during the day. The rest of their daylight hours would be spent outdoors free ranging in a protected fenced in pasture or backyard.

A DIY Mobile Chicken Coop

coops

stoRy and photos By caRole west

48 Backyard Poultry

Jumbo French Guineas, Bantam

Silkies, Muscovy Duck, & Khaki Campbell Ducks

Bantam silkies are excellent sitters with a gentle nature that make

excellent pets.

Guineas are fast growing, suitable for backyard growers who want to control ticks

and for those who would want to use them as a meat bird.

The Muscovy is fast growing and a great range duck with a lean meat that is

desired by many restaurants.

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“To order bantam silkies, call Blue Banty Farm at 717-471-3570 or order online at

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This coop is an easy build for estab-lished or beginner builders. It includes a few angle cuts so if that sounds intimidating skip the angles and just build a box shape using the same instructions. When you learn to modify a project you can almost always create what you’re imagining.

Building Supply List• Electric Saw • Drill, for pilot holes and screws• Measuring tape• Wire cutters• Staple gun with heavy duty staples• Long deck mate screws, 1-pound box• Short deck mate screws, 1-pound box• Two, 8-foot corrugated roof panels, screws and roof seal tape• 12 8-foot 2-by-4s• 12 8-foot pine fence boards• One 6-foot 4-by-4 • Chicken wire• Four wheels including hardware• Socket set for wheel installation• Hardware, hinges and locks

The Chicken Coop FrameBegin building the frame with 2-by-4s

according to the following measurements. If you decide a square coop is a better option than round off the four support corners to the same length.

• Bottom ends, two at 3.3 feet• Roof ends, two at 3.4 feet with a slight angle cut• Width of frame, four at 7 feet• Front support/height corners, two at 2.10 feet with a slight angle cut• Back support/height corners, two at 2.4 with a slight angle cut• Roof support beams, two at 3 feet• Roosting support bar, two at 3 feet• Roosting bars, two at 7 feet.

Before you assemble the frame drill pilot holes before you screw the boards together. This keeps the wood from splitting and makes this project easier to build. This is a step we will use through the entire project.

Work on a flat surface, everything needs to be lined up correctly. We build from the bottom up by inserting two screws at each corner. Once you have the floor frame con-nected you can add the support corners, long in front short in the back. Add these boards with three screws so the 4-inch width is facing the end.

Continue by adding the roof support bars, when these boards are in place lay a

pine board on the roof checking that all your angle cuts are aligned correctly.

The next placement will be to add two 3-feet roosting support bars. These fit inside each end of the coop.

Adding the WheelsCut your 4-by-4 beam in two 3-foot

pieces and insert to the base of the frame. Then flip the frame completely over onto the roof and add your wheels. It’s easier to add the wheels when the coop is light.

You can purchase wheels at any home improvement or farm store where they also sell the correct hardware. Drill pilot holes first and use a socket set to insert each bolt. Make sure your wheels are aligned in the correct direction and once you complete this task it’s time to flip the coop onto its wheels.

Adding the Nesting BoxesWe’re adding the nesting box on the

end of the coop.The box fits together with leftover

2-by-4 pieces from the frame cuts. Pre-pare one 2.5 feet for the back and two 1.4 foot for the walls. Connect the frame and then screw in to the side of the roosting cross bar. Then add the corner posts to the box which are 1-foot each.

If you think you want additional nesting space then go ahead and duplicate


this step on the opposite end. Remember when you purchase wood to add an ad-ditional 2-by-4 and two pine boards to cover the adjustment. You will also need another safety lock and set of hinges.

Adding Chicken WireBefore we move any further we must

add the chicken wire floors to the frame and nesting box. Make sure this wire is stretched tight before stapling in place. Cut off any excess wire after its attached using wire cutters.

The wire floor allows the chickens drop-pings to fall onto the ground, which keeps the coop from smelling bad. This addition also keeps predators from getting inside. The chickens will only sleep in here at night and lay eggs during the day so there will be very little walking on the chicken wire.

At this point in the project you may want to paint the frame of the coop.

Adding the WallsBefore we begin adding walls, make

sure you install the roosting bars. Place them at equal distance so it’s easy for the chickens to jump and get comfortable.

Begin by cutting pine boards to fit the back and end walls. Measurements will de-pend on how you want the wood to connect at the corners. Make sure to leave a small gap toward the top for ventilation, as it’s always a good to have fresh air circulating.

When you begin adding wood to the end of the coop there will be a few angle cuts toward the top, measure correctly before cutting the correct fit. Once these walls are complete let’s move over to the front of the coop.

This is where I plan to add a window. Add three boards, one on top and two on the bottom. I split one of my boards to create a narrow window, this was a personal choice.

We’re getting to that point in the project where we can stand back and smile because we’re almost finished.

Adding Chicken Wire WindowAdd the window chicken wire from

the inside and make sure it’s tight. When winter arrives you can cover this space with additional wood or make a burlap curtain.

Attach the RoofTo keep your coop lightweight use

corrugated roof panels; you could also use a sheet of plywood if you prefer. Use 1-800-658-4016 www.nutridrench.com

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50 Backyard Poultry

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October/November 2014 — Vol. 9/5• Storing Eggs, Modern New Ideas• Protecting the Coop from PredatorsDecember 2014/January 2015 — Vol. 9/6• What NOT to Feed Your Flock• Winter ProofFebruary/March 2015 — Vol. 10/1• What’s Best In The Nest• Feather-Loss SolutionsJune/July 2015 — Vol. 10/3• How To Trim Beaks And Claws• A Complete Guide To Poulty DiseasesAugust/September 2015 — Vol. 10/4• Prevent Cannibalism & Picking• How a Chicken’s Digestive System WorksOctober/November 2015 — Vol. 10/5• Poultry Feed For Molting Season• Fungal Infections Found In PoultryDecember 2015/January 2016 — Vol. 10/6• Keep The Peace• Winter Feed Supplement IdeasFebruary/March 2016 — Vol. 11/1• Antioxidants To The Rescue• An Introduction To Raising GeeseApril/May 2016 — Vol. 11/2• Solutions for New Chick Owners• Preventing Urban RodentsJune/July 2016 — Vol. 11/3• Why Soil Testing Can Help Your Flock• Ginger, For Healthier ChickensAugust/September 2016 — Vol. 11/4• Vocabulary Guide for Chicken Owners• Cooking with Ostrich EggsOctober/November 2016 — Vol. 11/5• A Close Look at Deworming Poultry• Raising Heritage TurkeysDecember 2016/January 2017 — Vol. 11/6• Follow the Light...to More Chicken Eggs• Plant a Chicken-Themed Garden

Back Issue List

April/May 2012 — Vol. 7/2 • Brooding Chicks is Easy!• A New Kind of Chicken CoopJune/July 2012 — Vol. 7/3• Plant a Poultry Garden• Feather Your Nest, Poultry Business IdeasAugust/September 2012 — Vol. 7/4• The Mystique of Swans• Tools to Legalize Urban Poultry KeepingDecember 2012/January 2013 — Vol. 7/6• Build a Beautiful & Practical Brooder• Beginner’s Guide to Raising DucksFebruary/March 2013 — Vol. 8/1• Understanding Bird Talk• Sex-link Chickens: Clarifying CrossbreedsApril/May 2013 — Vol. 8/2• Raise Healthy Chicks Naturally• Build a $3 Nest Box June/July 2013 — Vol. 8/3• What’s the Best Incubator?• An Introduction to PigeonsAugust/September 2013 — Vol. 8/4• Poultry Improvement and Medical Kits• Digital IncubatorsOctober/November 2013 — Vol. 8/5• Time To Winterize• The Exotic Rapanui FowlDecember 2013/January 2014 — Vol. 8/6• When to Call the Vet• Venturing Into HerbsFebruary/March 2014 — Vol. 9/1• Training Your Chickens• Flock Infections, Options for TreatmentApril/May 2014 — Vol. 9/2• Get Started With Heritage Breeds• Automatic Pophole Door OpenersJune/July 2014 — Vol. 9/3• A Veterinarian Learns How to Eradicate Rats• GMO Feed, What You Need to KnowAugust/September 2014 — Vol. 9/4• Noisy Birds, How to Keep the Big Boys Quiet• 8 Awesome Coop Ideas

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the proper hardware and attach to the roof panels and frame until secure.

Finishing the Nesting BoxNow it’s time to finish the nesting

box. Use pine boards to close in the walls of the box. Then continue to place fitted pine boards to close in the walls around the box.

The next part is to make the roof. I did a shingle style roof but you can also take board’s length wise and connect them with screws from underneath. When finished attached the lid to the box with hinges and add a lock to keep any type of predator from getting inside.

Building the Double DoorWe’ll be creating a double door that is

best assembled on a flat surface. During the day the main door stays closed and the small door remains open for the chickens to come and go as they please. When the chickens go in for the night that small door is designed to close shut by using a piece of wood to overlap.

This door is made with the pine fence boards, these measurements include the frame and inside pieces.

• Top frame, one at 3.7 feet• Bottom frame, one at 3.7-by-1.5 feet• Door height, three at 2.2 feet• Left side width pieces, two at 1.9 feet• Chicken door, two at 1.11 feet• Include four cross pieces for the chicken doorAssembly is very simple and the door

is connected using the smaller screws. First lay the three 2.2s and then add the top and bottom pieces so our door fits correctly from corner to corner. Then go ahead and screw these pieces together.

Add the two 1.9 pieces to the left and close in the gap with chicken wire. I added this window for additional ventilation.


When winter hits you can cover the same way you decide to cover the other window.

The chicken door is quick and con-nected with the four cross pieces, two on each side. This is connected to the main door using hinges.

Finally add hinges to the main door and connect to the chicken coop. You’ll want to add additional hardware that offers a tight connection for locking the main door.

Exterior Finish and Fun DetailsThe exterior finish can be painted,

stained or left to weather. I choose to paint the frame and let the rest of the coop go natural. Eventually that wood will darken becoming grey.

With some of the scrap wood I added planter boxes for something fun. Adding details are optional and a neat way to add your own creativity. The tree branches just caught my attention and it made sense to work them in.

I also love words so I thought adding some stenciling was a good fit. These signs were created on separate boards so they are easy to add or remove if I want to change them out later.

The final step is to move the chicken coop to its destination and introduce your chickens to their new home. I think we can agree they will love it.

This project is a fun build and can be finished in a day or a couple of after-noons. Have fun with it and remember to make it your own.

52 Backyard Poultry

fRom nutRena

I t’s not unusual for one or two hens in a small flock to eat their share of feed, relax and rarely lay an egg. Although most flock owners don’t

attempt to make money selling eggs, spotting and eliminating freeloaders saves feed dollars and keeps the eggs coming.

The trick is figuring out which hens aren’t lay-ing. There are several ways to spot the lazy hen, and backyard flock owners have an advantage. Unlike large laying operations, backyarders normally only keep a few hens and visit the coop regularly. Even better, small flocks are usually composed of several different breeds with varied colored and patterned feathers. That makes it easy to identify specific hens and helps track down a non-layer.

How Many Eggs Should a Hen Lay?The number of eggs a hen lays in each week

varies greatly depending on the breed or strain, nu-trition, weather, age of hen, and season or day length.

Hybrids developed for maximum egg produc-tion are laying dynamos, as are many white egg breeds. If well nourished and healthy, each bird will lay five or six eggs a week and sometimes more. In contrast, fancy and exhibition breeds are often poor layers and may go for weeks without producing a single egg. Even when they are in full production, two or three eggs a week per fancy bird is normal. Hens of any breed lay the most eggs during their first lay cycle and produce fewer eggs as they age.

Finding the Non-Layer in Your Flock

By lana BeckaRd

nutRena poultRy expeRt

A flock of hens that each lays eggs of a different hue makes it easy to tell which one isn’t working.


Most backyard flock owners keep time-tested, standard brown-egg breeds such as Barred Rocks, Buff Orpingtons, New Hampshire Reds and Wyandottes, among others. They are good layers that may not be quite as productive as hybrids, but each should lay four or five eggs a week.

Observe Your BirdsEven the most productive breeds and

hybrids sometimes include a slacker. Here’s how to find her.

Anyone with only five or six hens of varied breeds can usually pinpoint the non-layer through observation. Typically, hens sit in the nest for several minutes before laying. Take note of which hens never seem to be in a nest and the culprit may be found. If the entire flock is of one breed and they all look the same, it’s harder to find a non-layer by observation. In contrast, if a six-hen flock is composed of six different breeds or strains with different colored feathers, no bird has a look-alike. That helps identify the indi-vidual that never seems to be in a nest.

An easier way to spot a non-layer is to configure a flock with birds that lay distinctively colored eggs. For exam-ple, Ameraucanas lay blue/green eggs, Rocks or Orpingtons produce light brown eggs, while the eggs of Marans and Welsummers are dark brown. Leg-horns and Minorca produce snow-white eggs. A flock of hens that each lays eggs of a different hue makes it easy to tell which one isn’t working.

Experienced flock owners use several techniques to spot a non-layer, even if all birds are of the same color. Here’s how they do it.

The Eyeball TestHens that are run down, lethargic

and sickly looking usually aren’t laying. In contrast, birds that look great with healthy feathers, are a good size, and have bright yellow legs and beaks may be prima donnas, putting all their nutrition into looks rather than eggs. It takes much

work and nutrients to produce plentiful eggs, and working girls show the strain. As the months go by, their feathers get worn. Breeds with yellow legs and beaks gradually see this color diminish as egg laying drains pigments from the body. Also, good layers usually have healthy combs, while the combs of non-layers are often shrunken.

A Physical ExaminationThe best physical way to locate a

non-layer is to enter the coop at night with a battery lantern, flashlight, or headlamp so you can use both hands. Hens are easiest to handle when they are sleepy. Gently pick up each bird. Position her between your elbow and ribs with her head facing backwards. It may take gentle pressure from the arm to keep her wings from flapping, and by holding her feet between your fingers she’s not mobile and will likely sit quietly. Gently place the palm of the other hand on her pelvis. Bones that are easy to feel span the cloaca, where both droppings and eggs emerge. If a hen is not laying, the bones will be close together. If she’s laying, they will be three or four fingers apart, providing plenty of room for the egg to pass out of her body. A laying hen’s vent or cloaca is usually moist and pale in color. A non-layer’s may appear yellowish.

What to do with the Non-Layer?For many flock owners, a non-layer

is quickly destined for the stew pot. Usually non-laying hens are plump and delicious, but are old enough to have tough flesh. They are best stewed. Yet, some flock owners would never dream of butchering a bird. It’s okay to let a non-layer stay in the flock. Sometimes, the value of her companionship trumps even the tastiest of eggs.

To find a Nutrena dealer near you, visit NutrenaPoultryFeed.com. You can subscribe to the Nutrena poultry blog at ScoopFromTheCoop.com. ��

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Which type of feed do you

prefer?

Are your birdsvaccinated forcoccidiosis?

Choosing a Complete Feeding Program for Your Laying Chickens

18+ WeeksHow old are your birds?

1 Day – 18 Weeks

Which type of feed do

you prefer?

Organic or Non-GMO

Traditional

Traditional

Yes No Unsure

At 18 weeks, switch to a complete layer feed.

Or do you want more omega-3 in your eggs?

Do you like to feed treats to your hens?

For meat birdsand mixed flocks (ducks, geese and other nonlaying poultry): Feed Purina® Flock Raiser® crumbles from day 1 through adulthood.

For birds not being raised on a coÜ lete feeding program, supplement their diets with Purina® Chick Grit, Purina® Poultry Grit or Purina® Oyster Shell.

START

Organic or Non-GMO

Learn more at Purinamills.com/chicken-feed

© 2017 Purina Animal Nutrition LLC. All rights reserved.

Which type of feed do you

prefer?

Are your birdsvaccinated forcoccidiosis?

Choosing a Complete Feeding Program for Your Laying Chickens

18+ WeeksHow old are your birds?

1 Day – 18 Weeks

Which type of feed do

you prefer?

Organic or Non-GMO

Traditional

Traditional

Yes No Unsure

At 18 weeks, switch to a complete layer feed.

Or do you want more omega-3 in your eggs?

Do you like to feed treats to your hens?

For meat birdsand mixed flocks (ducks, geese and other nonlaying poultry): Feed Purina® Flock Raiser® crumbles from day 1 through adulthood.

For birds not being raised on a coÜ lete feeding program, supplement their diets with Purina® Chick Grit, Purina® Poultry Grit or Purina® Oyster Shell.

START

Organic or Non-GMO

Learn more at Purinamills.com/chicken-feed

56 Backyard Poultry

featuRe

Hatching Duck EggsBy gail dameRow

H atching duck eggs is fun, and nothing beats the thrill of opening the incubator to find

it full of bright eyed, curious, energetic creatures eager to get on with the busi-ness of life. Successfully hatching duck eggs, however, can also be a challenge, especially for anyone with experience hatching chicken eggs. Not all of the same incubation techniques apply.

Obtaining EggsMost duck breeds lay approximately

from February through June. The healthiest ducklings come from eggs laid during the peak of production, which would be March, April or May. Unless you already have ducks from which you can collect eggs for hatching, you’ll have to find a source.

A local source is generally better than mail order, because the eggs are subject-

ed to less stress than they would be if shipped. However, if you can’t find the kind of eggs you want locally, a reliable mail order source can safely ship eggs that result in a decent rate of hatch. On the other hand, eggs sold for hatching rarely come with any kind of guarantee.

The hatch rate for duck eggs in a home incubator is in the 70 to 75 percent range. If you collect your own eggs, you can store them for about a week while you accumulate enough for your hatch. Storing eggs for more than a week can reduce their hatchability by 60 percent. Shipping reduces hatchability by about the same amount.

If you have eggs shipped, you’ll lose additional hatchability by storing them too long before placing them in the incubator. When the eggs arrive, set them aside for half a day to give them

time to settle before hustling them into your waiting incubator. Settling gives the eggs a rest after being jostled during transport and also gives them time to adjust to a uniform temperature before incubation starts.

When I gathered and hatched fresh eggs from my own breeder ducks, my average hatch rate was about 75 per-cent of all eggs incubated. Last spring, I obtained four dozen duck eggs from Cackle Hatchery (cacklehatchery.com). The eggs arrived extremely well packed and none were cracked or broken. Since the eggs had been shipped (who knows what conditions in transit), and some of them may have been more than a week old, I would have been happy if at least 18 had hatched, so I was well pleased when half the eggs (24) produced ducklings.

Duck eggs arranged in a turkey egg

hatching tray, ready for

incubation. Photo by Gail

Damerow


Choosing an IncubatorIncubators come in all sizes from one

that holds three eggs to one that holds thousands. If you plan to hatch duck eggs on a routine basis, get an incubator that accurately displays temperature and hu-midity. Over the years I have used many different brands and models with greater or lesser degrees of success. (In the June/July 2013 issue of Backyard Poultry, I reviewed analog incubators, and in the August/September 2013 I described digital incubators.)

For large numbers of eggs I like a GQF cabinet incubator. For many years I used a Sportsman model (gqfmfg.com/1200e-series/), which holds 198 duck eggs and functions as both an in-cubation unit and a hatcher. I used it for continuous hatching, meaning eggs were hatching while others were still under incubation.

Several years ago I switched to the so-called professional model (gqfmfg.com/1500-series/1500-digital-profes-sional/), which is basically identical to the Sportsman except that it uses two units, one for incubation and one for hatching. This system — called single stage hatch-ing — simplifies sanitation, because you can shut down the hatcher and clean it out while the other unit keeps humming along, incubating the next batch of eggs to hatch.

For smaller numbers of eggs I like the R-Com countertop incuba-tor (r-com-hatcher.com/detail.htm? ProductID=PX-50), which holds four dozen eggs, and is easy to use and easy to clean. When I have more than one batch of eggs to hatch, I use the R-Com as a hatcher and a GQF Genesis Styro-foam Hova-Bator (gqfmfg.com/12-volt- hova-bator/1588-genesis-hova-bator/) for the incubation phase.

If you already own an incubator that you have experience using, you most likely can use it successfully to hatch duck eggs. If you are going to buy an incubator, you’ll be happier looking at important features rather than price. Even if you later decide you don’t need it, a higher quality incubator holds its value much better and therefore will fetch a higher resale price.

Incubation ProcedureAny incubator functions best where

the ambient temperature and humidity are fairly stable. Fluctuations in room temperature cause similar fluctuations within the incubator, affecting the hatch. An ideal room temperature range is 70ºF to 80ºF. An ideal humidity range is 40 to 50 percent. Position the incubator away from a window; otherwise both drafts and direct sunlight will affect the unit’s operation.

Place the incubator where it will not be in the way for the duration. Most duck eggs take about 28 days to hatch. Muscovy eggs hatch in 35 days. During that time you want to avoid jostling the incubator or potentially tripping over the cord and inadvertently pulling the plug.

On the other hand, if your incubator lacks a built-in device that automatically turns the eggs, you’ll need to turn them yourself. In such a case, you’ll want the incubator conveniently located where you will remember to turn the eggs at least three times a day. If you have a counter top incubator, a lazy way to turn eggs is to place something about the size of a brick under one edge of the incubator to raise it at an angle of about 45 degrees. For the next turning, move the brick to the opposite side of the incubator. Turn-ing keeps the yolk centered within the white. Otherwise it would float from the center toward the shell membrane, where it would eventually stick, causing the developing embryo to die.

Stop turning five days before the eggs are expected to hatch, to give the embryos time to get properly oriented for successfully breaking out of the shell. Depending on the style of your incubator, you may need to remove the turning rack so the baby ducklings won’t get tangled in the turning trays.

Temperature and HumidityThe temperature throughout the incu-

bation of duck eggs should remain at 99ºF, until the last five days. When turning stops, or the eggs are moved to a hatching unit, the temperature should be reduced by half a degree to 98.5ºF. Because the activities of pipping and hatching generate heat, the temperature may be reduced another half degree to 98ºF if the hatcher is full to capacity. If the hatcher is not full, you probably won’t need to reduce the tem-perature a second time.

Humidity throughout incubation should be 55 percent if the eggs were not washed, 65 percent if they were washed. I was told the duck eggs I purchased last spring had been “sponged off at the farm,” so I went with washed.

When turning stops, or the eggs are moved to the hatcher, humidity should be raised to 75 percent. On the last day of the hatch the humidity should be reduced by opening all the incubator’s vents, which both improves the oxygen flow and allows the ducklings to dry down before being moved to the brooder.

58 Backyard Poultry

Adjusting humidity is probably the most difficult part of hatching duck eggs, and is also the key to a successful hatch. The R-Com incubator is particularly nice in this respect. As a mini computer, it can be set to adjust the temperature and hu-midity during incubation and during the hatch. Once set, the incubator basically takes care of itself until the hatch is over.

Most other incubators require some degree of manipulation of the water pan surface area and vent opening/closing, which in turn requires some degree of experience with the particular incubator. It may also require careful watching and occasional adjusting, especially if the ambient humidity is variable. During our Tennessee springs, we sometimes have rel-

atively dry days alternating with incredibly humid days. On dry days I need to crank up the incubator’s humidity, while on humid days I need to take measures to prevent excessive moisture from accumulating in the incubator.

This past spring I wanted to see what it would take to maintain conditions in the GQF cabinet incubator appropriate for hatching duck eggs. To get the incu-bation humidity up to 65, I closed one vent hole in front and one in back, and put half a humidity pad lengthwise in the water pan. When I moved the eggs to the hatcher, I used the same vent and water pan configuration as in the incubator, plus I added a second (whole) humidity pad in the water pan and a second water pan on

the incubator floor. Both during incubation and during the hatch, I was pleased to see the humidity hold steady.

Additional to these measures, I sprayed the eggs daily with warm water (100ºF), starting on the fourth day and continuing through the 25th day. Spray-ing is intended to imitate the broody mother duck, which leaves the nest daily to eat drink and take a quick swim, returning to the nest with wet feathers. Research has shown that this daily dose of moisture alters the porosity of the shell’s surface, and also alters the strength of the underlying shell membranes, making them more permeable and resulting in a more successful hatch.

People sometimes tell me they don’t pay any attention to humidity during in-cubation and everything works out fine. Presuming ambient humidity cooperates, that is entirely possible. But it can also backfire. For hatching duck eggs, or any kind of eggs, I like an incubator that ac-curately monitors humidity. The next best thing is to use a humidity gauge such as the Fall Harvest analog hygrometer (fall harvestproducts.com/fhp-hygro.html)

I’m sometimes a little lax about candling chicken eggs,

especially eggs from my Silkie bantams, or eggs from my guinea

fowl, because they hatch so reliably. But I am religious about

candling duck eggs, because if one rots and explodes, it makes

an unholy mess that contaminates the rest of the hatch — not to

mention generating a nauseating stench.


DUCK EGGS ARE NOT CHICKEN EGGSIf you have experience hatching chicken eggs and want to try your hand at duck eggs, you will be more successful if you know the main differences between them. With regard to incubation, here are six major differences:

1. Duck eggs (aside from bantam duck eggs) are a little larger than most chicken eggs. You will likely need larger incubation trays, such as those designed for turkey eggs.

2. Duck eggs require more humidity during incubation and during the hatch. If the duck eggs have been washed, which removes the protective bloom or cuticle, they’ll need more humidity yet.

3. Duck eggs are more likely to rot and explode than chicken eggs. Candling is therefore much more important to avoid smelly, bacteria-laden contamination during incubation.

4. Duck eggs take longer to hatch than chicken eggs. The average chicken egg hatches in 21 days. The average duck egg (aside from Muscovy eggs) hatches in 28 days. Muscovy eggs take 35 days.

5. The average hatching rate for incubated duck eggs is lower than for chicken eggs. In a properly run incubator, a good hatch rate for duck eggs is 75 percent, compared to 85 percent for chicken eggs.

6. During the hatch, ducklings generate about twice as much fluff as chicks. Fluff allowed to accumulate on the surface of the water pan will drastically reduce humidity during the hatch.

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or the GQF digital hygrometer (gqfm-fg.com/hova-bator-accessories/3520- digital-incubator-hygrometer/).

Candling the EggsCandling eggs during incubation, by

using a strong light to peer through the shells, lets you monitor their progress. I’m sometimes a little lax about candling chicken eggs, especially eggs from my Silkie bantams, or eggs from my guinea fowl, because they hatch so reliably. But I am religious about candling duck eggs, because if one rots and explodes, it makes an unholy mess that contaminates the rest of the hatch — not to mention generating a nauseating stench.

Duck eggs should be candled on days 12, 19, and 24 (15, 24, and 30 for Mus-covies) and any that are infertile or other-wise not developing properly (especially those with contents that look muddled) should be removed from the incubator. During the last candling, the air cell at the blunt end of the egg should fill approxi-mately one-third the space inside the shell.

Last spring, for instance, when I candled the 48 duck eggs on day 12 of

incubation, I removed eight that were not developing at the same rate as the others, plus one that was obviously addled. On day 19 I removed eight eggs that had large, jagged air cells at the blunt end (likely due to damage from excessive jos-tling during shipment). On day 24 I chose not to candle again, but I did remove one egg that looked dark and murky.

Candling the eggs before putting them into the incubator is also a good idea. If you gathered the eggs from duck nests, candling will tell you if any of them

have already started to develop. If the eggs were shipped, candling will reveal any cracks.

Pipping TimeFrom the time a duckling first pips,

or breaks a hole through the shell, until it exits the shell can take anywhere from a couple of hours to more than a day. Most of the time the entire hatch will be over within 24 to 36 hours, although some hatches can take as long as four days from beginning to end. I have learned to leave

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the hatcher running for at least a day after the “last” baby bird hatches, and am often rewarded by finding several new babies in the incubator the next day.

Some ducklings fail to fully emerge from the shell. Pipping but failing to hatch could be the result of improper incubation or could result from a hered-itary weakness. In such a case, a lot of people are tempted to help the duckling out, and the resulting duckling is called a help-out. Help-outs don’t always survive, and when they do they often have deformities, such as crooked feet or twisted bills. Duck producer John Metzer of Metzer Farms (metzerfarms.com) suggests not interfering unless a duckling pips the egg but makes no further progress within 12 hours. In that event, you might help out by gently breaking pieces off the shell around the pip. If you see blood, stop and wait sev-eral hours before trying again. Personal-ly, I like to let nature take its course. A duckling that is strong enough to break out of the shell is more likely to grow up to become a vigorous and healthy duck.

When the hatch is short and quick, move the ducklings to a brooder when 95 percent have dried and fluffed out, leaving the wet ones in the hatcher a little longer. Moving ducklings while they’re still wet can cause them to chill and die. If the hatch is slow, the early ducklings will be okay in the hatcher for up to 24 hours, after which they must be removed to avoid the risk of dehydration,

Natural IncubationIf you prefer not to get involved with

artificial incubation, you could always let a duck hatch the eggs for you. Even a chicken will hatch duck eggs, and will attempt to raise the ducklings as if they were her own. The number of duck eggs a chicken can successfully hatch varies with the size of the eggs and the size of the hen. Just be sure not to give the hen more duck eggs than she can comfortably cover in her nest.

Gail Damerow is the author of Hatching and Brooding Your Own Chicks — Chickens, Turkeys, Ducks, Geese, Guinea Fowl, and other books on raising poultry, available from our bookstore on page 34.

Backyard Poultry

Bantams

NankinNankins have a unique

black-tailed red color pattern. Males are ginger red color with orange red hackles and saddle. Their tails and wings are tipped with black. Hens are the same, but lighter red. Nankins may have either single or rose comb. Face and lobes are red, while shanks, feet and toes are slate.

Large fowl breeds have corresponding bantam breeds. Some bantams, however, are unique. Those are considered True Bantams. Nankins are True Bantams.

Nankins are an old breed, historically documented for more than 600 years. Sir John Sebright used them to develop his Sebrights around 1800. They are such excellent broody hens and mothers that breeders kept them for that purpose entirely. They will hatch and raise other hens’ eggs.

They like to stay together in the flock, which may help them defend themselves against predators.

Nankins are known for their friendly and charming disposition. They were neglected as a breed and drifted out of the exhibition arena, but are making a recovery. They were added to the American Poultry Association’s Standard of Perfection in 2012. The American Bantam Association updated their standing from rare to common.

They are popular with young people, who enjoy handling and training such sweet birds. That’s helpful in showmanship classes. They are good interpretive birds, willing to be shown to visitors to historic sites such as Colonial Williamsburg.

BREED: NankinsSIZE: 22-24 ouncesEGG COLOR: WhiteCOMB: Either rose or singleFEATHERS: Medium hard, with lustrous colorCHARACTERISTICS: Friendly with people; hens are excellent mothers

Old English Game Bantams

The Old English Game bantam is, like its large fowl counterpart, the iconic chicken of nursery rhymes and chicken decor. Their flowing feathers glisten orange, red, green and iridescent black that catches the sun, shimmering with flashes of red, purple, blue and green, “as if the very color lived,” wrote editors Willis Grant Johnson and George Brown in their 1908 Poultry Book.

Old English Game bantams are docile and easily managed. That charm and their beauty, in 37 varied color patterns, make them the most popular bantam. The hens get along well together. They fight only to defend their nest or brood of chicks. That’s worth fighting for.

Black-breasted Red is the traditional color, but solid colors such as white and black and other color patterns such as Golden Duckwing and Red Pyle

featuRe

Spring Breed

Directory Here’s a guide to helping you choose the next

members of your flock

By chRistine heinRichs

califoRnia

62

O P E N. P O U R.P R O T E C T

© 2017 Milk Products LLC. Sav-A-Chick® is a registered trademark of Milk Products LLC.

Visit SavAChick.com to find your local retailer

My Farm Journey

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64 Backyard Poultry

makes this breed one with a color to please any eye.

Old English Games are required to be dubbed for showing, meaning the comb and wattles of the rooster are surgically removed. This gives them the traditional look of fighting fowl. The original purpose of the practice was to prevent the other rooster from getting a grip and gaining an advantage. Unless intended for exhibition, dubbing is unnecessary.

“An experienced breeder will look for balance, poise, character and confidence in Old English Game,” writes Dr. J. Batty in his book, Understanding Old English Game.

BREED: Old English Game BantamsSIZE: 22-24 ouncesEGG COLOR: WhiteCOMB: Single, but often dubbedPLUMAGE: Hard feathersCHARACTERISTICS: Iconic breed with many color variations for exhibition

SebrightSebrights are tiny

chickens with feathers, either golden or pure white, so carefully outlined in black as to look as if an artist had painted them. The Bantam Standard describes the Silver Sebrights’ white with black markings as, “The ultimate from white to black, the most truly brilliant expression of lacing and ground … lustrous black on a pure white base … the finest expression possible to attain, and it has always been so.”

Their short backs and tails held high give them a sporty look. Males and

females have the same color feathers, called “henny feathering.” Their purplish-red facial skin sets off their dark brown eyes, under a purplish-red rose comb ending in a nice spike. Earlobes may share the purplish-red of the face or be turquoise.

They are named for Sir John Sebright, who developed them around 1800 in London. He bred various birds together until the unusual birds that bear his name today met his exacting standards. By 1812, Sebrights and their unusual markings were capturing the interest of other English breeders.

They were included in the APA’s first Standard of Perfection in 1874, already a popular breed.

Sebrights are an exhibition breed, laying small eggs and being too small for meat. They are the tenth most popular bantam breed and often seen at shows. They are beloved but can be difficult to breed.

BREED: SebrightSIZE: 20-22 ouncesEGG COLOR: WhiteCOMB: RosePLUMAGE: High contrast of black lacing on white or golden bayCHARACTERISTICS: Small, beautiful bantam, good disposition

SilkieSilkies cannot be

confused with any other chicken breed. Their hair-like feathers are unique. Their heads are fluffy balls, with those feathers mushrooming up into a puffball. There are bearded and non-bearded varieties.

A beard is the cluster of feathers on the throat, under the beak. Muffs are the feathers on the sides. Beard and muffs join together in a fluffy face from eyes to throat. They have feathered crests on their heads and feathers down their five toes.

Their ear lobes are turquoise blue. Less obvious is their black or dark blue skin and, underneath it all, black meat and bones.

They are the fourth most popular bantam breed. Seven colors are recognized by the ABA. Naked Neck Silkies, also called Showgirls, have no feathers on their necks, but a fluffy bib below.

Aside from their unusual appearance, they are known for their endearing disposition. They are generally calm and friendly. They make good pets.

Hens are often broody. Even roosters will care for chicks. Breeders often keep a few Silkie hens to hatch eggs their non-sitters won’t.

Silkie feathers lack the barbicels, or little hooks, which make other feathers connect in a web. Their hair-like feathers require special care. They don’t resist water the way other chicken feathers do. Silkies can get soaked through, get chilled and die. Keep them dry and out of the rain.

BREED: SilkieSIZE: 32-36 ouncesEGG COLOR: White to light brownCOMB: WalnutPLUMAGE: Fur-like feathersCHARACTERISTICS: Popular bantam with a sweet temperament, often broody

SeramaSeramas are the

tiniest bantams. They are friendly and welcome visitors to their backyard. They may be found in the house, being kept as pets. Their disposition is more like puppies than other chickens.

They strut with their chests out and their tails held high. They hold their heads well back, in line with or behind their feet below them. That pushes the chest out in their characteristic posture.

That tail points upward, with sickle feathers at least an inch longer than the rest of the tail and a couple of inches above the head. The rest of the tail feathers are as tall as the bird’s comb.

Three types of Seramas are raised, but only the American Serama is recognized. Traditional Seramas are much like American Seramas, but breeders select birds for temperament and conformation above color of plumage, skin, eye or ear lobe. Their top weight limit is a few ounces larger than the American Serama. Ayam (Malaysian) types have higher chests and their wings are more forward than American and Traditional.

Serama fanciers raise them in a wide variety of colors, but only White is recognized so far. They were accepted into the APA and ABA Standards in 2011. Breeders continue to work to get additional color varieties recognized. Black and Exchequer varieties are poised for recognition in 2016, followed by Wheaten in 2018.

BREED: American Serama SIZE: 14-16 ouncesEGG COLOR: CreamCOMB: SinglePLUMAGE: Abundant, flowing but not fluffyCHARACTERISTICS: Tame and sweet disposition in a tiny but dignified bird

Large FowlAmerican breeds

Plymouth RockThe barred variety of

Plymouth Rocks, with alternating dark and light lines (bars) on the feathers, was the first recognized in the 1874 original APA Standard of Excellence. Barred Rocks remain the best-known variety of this historic American breed.

Recognize Plymouth Rocks by their shape, size and single combs. Dominiques have rose combs and are smaller. The Rock shape is the most important quality: a broad back, medium length, rising with a slight concave sweep to the tail. Broad shoulders and strong tail feathers well spread, carried moderately upright, “build up the back to the proper ending,” wrote poultry authority Harrison Wier in The Poultry Book published in 1912.

Plymouth Rocks were developed in Massachusetts after the Civil War and named for one of the state’s most famous landmarks.

Plymouth Rocks are useful, active, dual-purpose birds that have attracted many


followers. Frank Reese of Good Shepherd Poultry Ranch in Lindsborg, Kansas, considers it “the perfect bird for outdoor production,” along with New Hampshires. As H.P. Schwab, secretary of the American Plymouth Rock Club, wrote in Weir’s 1912 Poultry Book, “They are a business fowl in every sense of the word, one that never deserts its post nor shirks its duty.”

In addition to Barred, Rocks may be White, Buff, Silver Penciled, Partridge, Columbian, or Blue. Bantams are also recognized in Silver Penciled and Black.

BREED: Plymouth RockSIZE: 7 ½ - 9 ½ poundsEGG COLOR: Light to dark brownCOMB: SinglePLUMAGE: Broad, well-developed feathersCHARACTERISTICS: Strong all-around breed. Historic and beloved

DominiqueDominiques have black-

and-white barred feathers and a small classic rose comb, with an upturned spike at the back. Don’t confuse them with Barred Plymouth Rocks, which have similar feathers but a single comb. Full grown, Dominiques are smaller than Barred Rocks.

Dominiques are considered the first American breed. They were shown at the first American poultry show in Boston in 1849. They had been an American barnyard fixture for a long time even then. Their keepers often call them Dominikers.

Their feathers are barred, silver white and dove-gray, in the color

pattern known in other breeds as cuckoo. The colors blur as one watches them, making them look blue. That color pattern provides protective camouflage for them when they forage in the barnyard. Dominiques are good foragers.

The males have longer sickle feathers than females. Their bright yellow legs stand out. Getting the rose comb perfect is a challenge to breeders. It may lack the required spike or the spike may be misshapen. Tail angle in both males and females can be difficult to perfect. Dominique tails should stand at a jaunty 45-degree angle.

Dominiques are a general-purpose barnyard breed. They make good roasters or fryers. They are steady, reliable layers of brown eggs. The hens will settle in and brood eggs and raise the chicks they hatch.

Bantam Dominiques are also popular.

BREED: DominiqueSIZE: 5-7 poundsEGG COLOR: BrownCOMB: Rose, with upturned spikePLUMAGE: Long, broad feathers close to bodyCHARACTERISTICS: Dual-purpose breed. First American breed

BuckeyeA buckeye is a rich, dark

red-colored nut produced by the tree of the same name. Ohio is the Buckeye State. That’s where the Buckeye chicken breed was developed.

Recognize them by their buckeye-colored glossy reddish brown feathers. Don’t confuse them with a Rhode Island Red. The Buckeye is a deeper mahogany red with some black accents compared to the true red of Rhode Island Reds. Buckeyes are heavier and stockier than the Rhode Island Red. Buckeyes

have a pea comb, not the single or rose comb of the Rhode Island Red.

Buckeyes are vigorous, resilient and disease resistant. They exemplify the dual-purpose ideal, growing to a solid size and laying plenty of eggs. They are the most active American breed.

They withstand cold winters well, with their freeze-resistant pea comb. They lay well into the winter.

Buckeyes charm with their engaging personality. They practically trip their keepers with friendly greetings as they cluster around their legs. Relations among birds are congenial, with roosters taking a gentle interest in watching over the flock. Fighting among males is rare. Their social nature is expressed in a variety of vocalizations, from a purr to a roar, particularly among the roosters. Their keepers see the dinosaur heritage in them.

They are good foragers on free range. They like to graze, and will keep the pasture clipped like a lawn.

BREED: BuckeyeSIZE: 6 ½ - 9 poundsEGG COLOR: BrownCOMB: PeaPLUMAGE: Smooth but fluffy. Glowing colorCHARACTERISTICS: Active, friendly dual-purpose breed. Shows well.

Rhode Island Red

This red, red, red chicken is an American icon. Rhode Island Red aficionados find it difficult to express the subtle beauty of the Rhode Island Red’s

feathers. “Rich, brilliant red, so brilliant in luster as to have a glossed appearance,” wrote Willis Grant Johnson in 1912. The current Standard calls for “lustrous, rich, dark red.” These refinements are the kind of subtlety that only experience and working with poultry masters can confer.

RIRs have a horizontal oblong body shape. Most have single combs but a rose comb variety exists.

RIRs were developed in Rhode Island and Massachusetts in the mid-19th century as a dual-purpose farm and commercial breed. John Crowther, an early 20th century breeder, called them “the best all-purpose fowl of a practical and progressive people.” They are slightly smaller and brighter red than the Buckeye.

Rhode Island Reds remain one of the most popular breeds for small and for commercial laying flocks. Slow Food USA includes the RIR in its Ark of Taste. RIRs are the official bird of the state of Rhode Island.

RIRs are the source of commercial brown eggs. The industrial production strains are different from the old-fashioned ones. The industrial ones are smaller and lighter. They will not meet the Standard of Perfection required by poultry judges.

Exhibition birds that meet the APA Standard lay fewer eggs than commercial production varieties.

BREED: Rhode Island RedSIZE: 6 ½ - 8 ½ poundsEGG COLOR: BrownCOMB: Single and RosePLUMAGE: Broad, with lustrous colorCHARACTERISTICS: The Red Hen of the barnyard. One of the most popular breeds, both large fowl and bantam.

Jersey GiantAs their name suggests,

Jersey Giants are big. At 13 pounds and two feet tall, Jersey Giant roosters live up to their name. Hens, at 10 pounds and a foot and a half tall, are bigger than roosters of most other breeds.

Most Jersey Giants are black, the original color developed by the brothers Black, John and Thomas, of New Jersey back in the 1890s. The Black brothers’ idea was to create a chicken big enough to replace the turkey at holiday feasts.

To create the Giants, the Black brothers crossed Javas with Dark Brahmas and Black Langshans and selected the biggest birds for the next round of breeding. Big, muscular Cornish was probably added along the way. The Blacks weren’t interested in color. They wanted size. By 1895, their flock had the largest birds. They were mostly black, so they were known as Black’s Giants. Later, in 1917, another breeder suggested honoring the state where they were developed by calling them Jersey Giants. The breed was accepted in to the Standard in 1922.

Because they need more time to grow to achieve their larger size, their meat requires longer roasting. Too tough for fryers or broilers.

Despite their large size, they are also good layers of large and extra-large eggs.

Giants have yellow skin. They are now recognized in white and blue as well as the traditional black.

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BREED: Jersey GiantSIZE: 10-13 poundsEGG COLOR: BrownCOMB: SinglePLUMAGE: Lustrous black plumage with a greenish shimmerCHARACTERISTICS: Big, meaty birds, calm and docile

DelawareDelawares have a

single distinctive color pattern: white feathers with a sprinkling of barred feathers in the hackle, wings and tail.

The Delaware is a 20th-century creation, developed for the growing commercial broiler market in the 1940s. Breeders developed it from sports, unusually colored individuals, of the Barred Rock roosters they were crossing with New Hampshire hens.

It’s so pretty, it was recognized by the APA for exhibition in 1952. Back then, production was as significant as beauty.

Timing is everything, though, and the Delaware’s usefulness was soon eclipsed by the industrial focus on the bottom line. The Cornish Rock cross replaced it in commercial flocks. Its composite background as a crossbred bird undermined its popularity in the show ring, and poultry keepers stopped raising it. It all but disappeared. The Delaware, after all that careful breeding and selection, was relegated to a historical footnote.

Dedicated breeders are re-creating this vigorous, fast-maturing breed.

Their fine meat, both flavor and size, are recommended for small

poultry production flocks. It’s also a respectable layer. Delawares are good broody hens and good mothers.

Males are protective and good flock leaders. Although they are brave and free range happily on pasture, they don’t fly over the fence and leave home. The chicks are tiny fat balls of fluff with a funny, serious look.

BREED: DelawareSIZE: 6 ½ - 8 ½ poundsEGG COLOR: Pale brownCOMB: SinglePLUMAGE: Distinctive white with black accents in hackle and tailCHARACTERISTICS: Modern American dual purpose creation

Asiatic

CochinCochins are big, round

puffy chickens, masses of soft feathers creating a rounded silhouette. Their fluffy feathers make them look even larger than they are. Those soft feathers beg to be touched. Combined with their calm and friendly disposition, they make excellent backyard birds. The hens are often good broody hens and mothers.

Cochins were developed in the U.S. from birds imported from Shanghai in the 19th century.

Cochins are a dual-purpose breed, big for meat and good egg layers. Cochins are one of three breeds in the Asiatic class. The others are Brahmas and Langshans.

Mostly they are shown

as exhibition birds. See them at poultry shows. The American Poultry Association recognizes Buff, Partridge, White, Black, Silver-laced, Golden-laced, Blue, Brown and Barred varieties of the Cochin. Many unrecognized colors are also raised, including Red, Silver Laced, Mottled and Splash. Seventeen color varieties of bantam Cochins are recognized by the American Bantam Association, including Black Tailed Red, Birchen, Golden Laced, Columbian and Lemon Blue. They are second only to the English Game bantam in popularity.

Their soft feathers require extra care to stay clean. Keep them out of the mud.

Some see Cochins as clownish. Because their feathers completely cover their feet and legs, they look like they are doddering around. The chickens take themselves perfectly seriously, though, and continue as dignified ambassadors of another time and place.

BREED: CochinSIZE: 8 ½ - 11 lbs.EGG COLOR: BrownCOMB: SinglePLUMAGE: Abundant and softCHARACTERISTICS: Large, fluffy birds, much admired for their feathers.

English

CornishCornish are blocky and

muscle-bound, rocking from side to side as they walk. The Cornish is a

bulldog among chickens, a roast chicken on legs.

Don’t confuse them with the industrial Cornish/Rock hybrid cross. Traditional Cornish are a beautiful breed with a long English history. The breed takes its name from Cornwall in England, the Cornish coast. Originally, they were Indian Games, descended from Asils and Malays brought to Falmouth and other Cornish ports from India, and the local English Games. In America, they became known as Cornish, perhaps to avert the suggestion of cock fighting associated with Indian Games.

Keeping those short, burly chickens vigorous can be a challenge. They are inclined to gain weight — the meat producer’s goal, but not any healthier for chickens than for people. Fat interferes with fertility and egg production. A fat hen lays fewer eggs. Cornish need exercise as well as nutritious but not high calorie food to stay at their best. They do well on pasture, where they can stay active eating plenty of grass to keep their legs and feet bright yellow.

Pure White, Buff and White-laced Red varieties are recognized. Bantams are one of the ABA’s 10 most popular breeds, shown in a dozen recognized colors. Cornish are one of the largest bantam chickens, at nearly three pounds for roosters and over two pounds for hens. Even the little ones are big.

BREED: CornishSIZE: 8-10 ½ poundsEGG COLOR: BrownCOMB: PeaPLUMAGE: Short, hard feathers, vibrant colors glistening with sheenCHARACTERISTICS: Big, stocky meat birds

DorkingDorkings are the

classic breed, historically the Five-Toed Fowl of England, the white-skinned meat bird of the English-speaking world. They take their name from the English market town of Dorking in Surrey, which now has a museum in their honor.

They are good dual-purpose chickens, with big, hefty bodies and good egg production. Their short legs slow them down in the snow, but otherwise they tolerate cold weather well.

Dorkings are depicted in Roman mosaics. They may have arrived in England with the Roman soldiers who invaded 2,000 years ago.

Other historians set the date of their arrival in England later, to 1066 with the Norman Conquest. A breed with such a long history exerts a powerful attraction.

Many color varieties have been developed over the centuries. Red has the longest history. Cuckoo, black and white barred feathers, is another old variety. Colored, Silver-Gray and White have been recognized since the first Standard in 1874. Dark Birchen Gray, Brown Red, Light Gray, Spangled, Clay, Dark Red and Black are also raised.

This is a global chicken breed. Dorking fanciers have breed clubs in Australia and New Zealand as well as Europe and North America.

This star quality breed is on display at historic sites such as Virginia’s Frontier Culture Museum


and Massachusetts’ Plymouth Plantation. Both sites allow birds to range, which suits Dorkings well.

BREED: DorkingSIZE: 7-9 poundsEGG COLOR: lightly tintedCOMB: Both single and rose comb varieties are recognizedPLUMAGE: Medium length and hardnessCHARACTERISTICS: Five toes, white skin.

OrpingtonsBuff Orpingtons are so

popular that some may not know that Orpingtons can also be black, white and blue. They all share the full-feathered body with a U-shaped back. The single comb stands up with five spikes. Orpingtons are the image of a storybook chicken.

The breed was developed late in the 19th century. Orpingtons quickly became popular for their production of both meat and eggs. Orpingtons have long been a favorite of the English Royal Family. Queen Victoria herself kept a flock of Orpingtons. Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, kept Orpingtons, the Buff variety reputed to be her favorites. Prince Charles remains a champion of Orpingtons.

Their feathers are their glory, broad and smooth, but without the fluffiness of Cochins.

Orpingtons are a general-purpose breed. They are big meat birds that lay well. Estimates of laying vary, from 50 to 120 eggs a year. Orpingtons are active and good foragers but calm and friendly in disposition,

making them popular as companions. The hens also are good broodies and attentive mothers.

Orpingtons come in many other colors that are not yet recognized, such as chocolate. Buyer beware. Reports have varied. Deal with reputable breeders. They can also advise you as to the laying history of their strains.

In England, many other colors are raised, including gold laced, cuckoo, lemon cuckoo, lavender, porcelain and splash.

BREED: OrpingtonSIZE: 8-10 lbs.EGG COLOR: Light to dark brownCOMB: Single, five points PLUMAGE: Broad and smooth fitting but not fluffyCHARACTERISTICS: Big, strong, beautiful chicken with a good disposition

Mediterranean

LeghornLeghorns are the

traditional egg-laying breed. They are an Italian breed, in the Mediterranean class. They are non-sitters, which means they will not be broody. They continue to lay eggs while their broody sisters raise the next generation.

Leghorns are so popular that the APA recognizes sixteen different varieties, nine colors and both rose and single combs. Fanciers raise others, such as Exchequer, a black and white Scottish variety. Leghorn bantams are

among the top ten most popular bantams shown.

Standard Leghorns are a bit high-strung and can be flighty around humans, although some settle down with attention. Harrison Weir in his 1910 Our Poultry describes them as having “charming bright alertness and elegance of form.” Their tails twitch back and forth, expressing their changing moods and interests.

In America, the Leghorn became “America’s Business Hen” in the 1880s, setting it on the path to industrialization. Today, Leghorns have the most efficient feed-to-egg conversion ratio of all the Standard breeds. They produce more eggs in relation to the amount of feed they consume than any other breed.

Egg size in some varieties has declined. Breeders are working with flocks to bring all Leghorn eggs up to large size eggs.

Summer heat doesn’t bother them, although they need shade to escape direct sun. They lay regardless of triple digit temperatures. Eggs are fertile all year.

BREED: LeghornSIZE: 4 ½ - 6 poundsEGG COLOR: WhiteCOMB: Single or rosePLUMAGE: Broad, long feathers fit close to the bodyCHARACTERISTICS: Champion egg breed. Thrives in warm climates.

White Faced Black Spanish

White Faced Black Spanish are big black chickens with white faces topped off by bright red comb and wattles.

They are the oldest breed of the Mediterranean class, the ancestor of white egg chickens. Records show their white faces in the 16th century. They were popular early in

American colonial history. There are somewhat

leggier than the other Mediterranean breeds, and their necks stretch up a bit longer, too.

The ABA recognizes a Blue variety as well as Black.

That white skin should be smooth, but some folding is inevitable. Size is more desired than smoothness. The APA requires that the distinctive white face be “attractive, but not of grotesque proportions.”

That long white face has been over-emphasized by breeders in the past. Victorian fanciers gently massaged the faces of their show birds to get the largest and smoothest face, with the texture of white kid leather. In 1912, exhibitors aimed to show Spanish roosters with faces nine inches long by five or six inches wide. Fanciers may no longer massage their birds, but they will pluck out any errant feathers that appear on that white face and may dust it with baby powder before judging.

Cold weather can mar the perfection of their white faces, a reflection of their warm Mediterranean background. Such magnificent birds deserve nothing less than perfection.

BREED: White Faced Black SpanishSIZE: 6 ½ - 8 poundsEGG COLOR: Chalk whiteCOMB: SinglePLUMAGE: Moderately broad and long, fitting close to the bodyCHARACTERISTICS: White face, longer than the bright red wattles

Sicilian Buttercup

Sicilian Buttercup have a cup-shaped comb, like a little crown. They are a Mediterranean non-sitting egg breed.

Their name connects them to Sicily, but their forebears probably came from North Africa. They are similar in color to Egyptian Fayoumis, which sometimes have a double comb similar to the Buttercup crown.

Trade was common among Mediterranean nations over the centuries and chickens traveled with the traders. The egg breeds were valued livestock.

Their coloring is exotic. They have willow green legs. Males are different from females. The ideal Buttercup rooster has a brilliant red comb complemented by a light horn beak. His head is covered in lustrous reddish orange feathers from the head that extend down to his cape. His tail is black, glistening with green highlights in the sun. The hen is golden buff spotted with black. Their regal coloring adds to their royal look.

The comb must stand straight, not flop over, and not have a third row of points.

They are a flighty breed in disposition. They prefer to keep their distance from their keepers. They may literally fly, and prefer to roost high. Free ranging Buttercups may roost in trees.

If they are handled daily from the time they hatch, they can be tame around people. When they are trained with treats such as sunflower seeds, they will come

68 Backyard Poultry

forward to greet visitors.

BREED: Sicilian ButtercupSIZE: 5-6 ½ poundsEGG COLOR: White to tintedCOMB: Cup-shaped crownPLUMAGE: Moderately long and broad, fitting close to the bodyCHARACTERISTICS: Unusual crown comb. Melodious voice.

Continental

Polish Polish chickens are

the ones with a top hat, a feathery crest on top of their heads. It’s not only feathers. They actually have a bony knob on their skull.

The crest is the distinguishing feature. It’s full and round. Feathers on the crest may be the same color as the rest of the bird, such as Golden, Silver, White, and Buff Laced, or may contrast with the rest of the bird, such as White Crested Black and White Crested Blue.

Polish chickens were popular through the centuries as good layers. Four varieties were included in the first Standard in 1874, with four more following in 1883. The others are more recent additions.

They aren’t necessarily from Poland, although they were certainly popular in Eastern Europe. They may have taken their name originally from the city of Padua, Italy. Or it could come from that

feathery knob, the round poll, as in polled cattle, or the poll of pollarded trees.

Polish chickens also may or may not have beards and muffs. Bearded Polish have a beard and muffs that form a collar of three ovals on the face.

Frizzled Polish go up a notch in feathering. The frizzle gene can be bred into any breed, making the feathers curve and curl. Frizzles are shown as a separate class but are judged according to their breed standards.

BREED: PolishSIZE: 4 ½ - 6 poundsEGG COLOR: WhiteCOMB: Small V-shapedPLUMAGE: Broad and abundantCHARACTERISTICS: That crest of feathers on the head.

FaverollesFaverolles have

feathered legs but the feet are only half covered. They have five toes, inherited from their Dorking forebears. Their faces are feathery with beards and muffs.

Faverolles are a French breed developed in the late 19th century from local Houdans, Asiatic breeds, and Dorkings. They are a French response to the big Asiatic breeds that were such a sensation then. Taking their name from a French town, Faverolles includes the final “s” in both singular and plural.

They are known for laying eggs through cold weather, but their large bodies make a good meat breed.

Faverolles are the only APA-recognized breed

with the Salmon color variety, a silver wheaten pattern, which is very different on cocks and hens. The rooster is a patchwork of contrast, from the black muffs and beard on his light yellow head and neck to his straw yellow sickles over a black tail, but the hens are a warm salmon brown with white fluffy faces. The APA also recognizes White Faverolles in large fowl and bantams, but the ABA recognizes Black, Blue and Buff as well.

The color is tricky to get exactly right for poultry competition, but all Faverolles are solid utility birds. Hens may show lacing on their salmon feathers. Their showy colors attract attention, but their homely virtues and plentiful eggs make them valued backyard birds.

BREED: FaverollesSIZE: 6 ½ - 8 poundsEGG COLOR: Light brownCOMB: SinglePLUMAGE: Fluffy but not as soft as a CochinCHARACTERISTICS: Five toes. Good winter layers.

All Other Standard Breeds

Ameraucana Ameraucana chickens

lay blue eggs. The blue egg trait is dominant to white and brown.

The breed was developed from the Araucana, a South American breed, after

the Araucana breed was recognized in 1976.

Ameraucanas have muffs and beards, but not the ear tufts of Araucanas. They have tails, which the Araucana does not. Araucanas actually have two fewer vertebrae and no uropygial gland. They are different from each other, although they developed from shared heritage.

Ameraucanas are good layers, known for laying well into the winter. Ameraucanas are larger than the small Araucana.

Araucanas brought to the United States in the 1930s had varied traits, including muffs, beards, ear tufts and might or might not have tails. The APA adopted a definition for Araucanas that specified ear tufts and no tail. Breeders organized to breed the other traits into a separate breed, initially called American Araucanas. That became Ameraucana, and the breed was recognized in 1984.

Both breeds are considered egg breeds. Both are recognized in several color varieties and raised in other, unrecognized, colors. Bantams of both breeds are also recognized and shown.

Ameraucanas are attractive and hardy, and those blue eggs are distinctive. They are a popular addition to backyard flocks. Because they are a recognized breed, they can be shown at poultry shows. The small comb and fluffy face give them a chubby look.

BREED: AmeraucanaSIZE: 5 ½ - 6 ½ poundsEGG COLOR: BlueCOMB: PeaPLUMAGE: Abundantly feathered with well spread tails and curved sickle feathers.CHARACTERISTICS: Muffs and beards, tails

Naked NeckNaked Necks look

as if they were crossed with turkeys! Their long, skinny necks stick up, topped with a big red comb and bright red wattles hanging down.

They are sometimes called Turkens, but they aren’t related to turkeys and don’t have geographic relation to the country of Turkey. They probably originated in Hungary or Eastern Europe and were championed by German breeders, who developed them into a breed.

As unusual as they look, nakedness isn’t a new trait. The naked neck gene occurs in chicken flocks around the world. It also causes them to have half the feathers of other chickens.

Naked Neck chickens are strong and hardy. Fewer feathers means it’s easier for them to stay cool, but they also tolerate cold weather well. They rarely get sick, apparently immune to most diseases. They lay well and make good meat birds. Having fewer feathers to pluck is certainly an advantage there.

Naked Necks can be any color, but only four are recognized for shows: Red, White, Black and Buff. The ABA also recognizes Blue and Cuckoo.

The naked gene is dominant, so it can be bred into other breeds. One popular cross is the Naked Neck-Silkie, which results in a cross called “Showgirls.” The bare neck topped with the Silkies’ topknot of hair-like feathers gives the impression


of a dancer dressed in a fancy costume.

BREED: Naked NeckSIZE: 6 ½ - 8 ½ poundsEGG COLOR: Light brownCOMB: SinglePLUMAGE: Smooth but sparseCHARACTERISTICS: Bare red-skinned neck

SumatraSumatra chickens are

a landrace originally from the island of Sumatra in western Indonesia. A landrace is a locally adapted breed that has developed over time by adapting to its environment.

They are a long-tailed breed. The males have long flowing feathers that may drape onto the ground.

They are known for their gleaming black feathers, with an iridescent green “beetle” sheen. They are also shown in white and blue varieties.

They are hardy and good foragers. They need a high protein diet when they are growing those long feathers. The hens will be broody and are good mothers.

Although they come from a very aggressive background known for great fighting spirit, Sumatras are now tame although active birds. They are small and fly well, using their powerful wings to take off vertically. Plan on large pens for Sumatras.

The first trio was brought to the U.S. in 1847, shipped directly to Boston from Angers Points on the island to Boston. There, they were bred with local American gamefowl.

They have small pea combs and brown eyes set in mulberry or plum-colored skin on their faces, called gypsy coloration. Their multiple spurs, a defect in other breeds, are desirable on Sumatras.

They lay well. Their light eggs make them an exception to the rule of thumb that birds with dark earlobes lay brown eggs.

BREED: SumatraSIZE: 4-5 poundsEGG COLOR: White or lightly tintedCOMB: Small peaPLUMAGE: Long, flowing feathersCHARACTERISTICS: Graceful, regal carriage Commercial Chickens

Easter EggersEaster Eggers lay pastel

colored eggs. That blue egg gene is dominant, so it can be bred into chickens of any breed in a single generation. Voila! Colorful eggs.

The drawback is that they are mongrel chickens that do not meet any exhibition standard.

The shell is actually blue. Brown eggs have an outer layer of color over white shells, the final step before the egg is laid. When that brown, which can range from light to dark, is layered over blue, it looks khaki to light green.

Some South American chickens have a gene for laying pink eggs, so Easter Eggers may lay pink eggs, too. Thus, the name.

Easter Eggers rarely are broody, since they are developed as non-sitting egg layers. That’s okay, since they won’t reproduce their traits reliably anyway. That’s the definition of a breed, chickens that resemble each other enough to be readily recognized by traits that can be described. Breeds breed true — their offspring resemble their parents in predictable ways. A breed has unique appearance, productivity and behavior.

Easter Eggers are a mix of breeds. So they may have any kind of plumage, may or may not have muffs and beards, and be any color. They may be beautiful and be good egg producers.

There is no Standard definition of Easter Egger. Keep these birds purely for fun and eggs.

BREED: Easter EggerSIZE: VariableEGG COLOR: Pastel blue, green and pinkCOMB: VariesPLUMAGE: VariesCHARACTERISTICS: Those pastel eggs are irresistible.

Sex-LinksSex-Links are

chickens that hatch with distinctively different feather colors on males and females. Knowing which is which reduces the chance of acquiring an unwanted rooster. They are the result of crossing different colored parents of standard breeds. The resulting chicks tend to be hardier and more vigorous than either parent.

Red roosters, such as New Hampshires and Rhode Island Reds, father both red and black

sex-links, depending on the mother’s color. For black sex-links, a red father on a Barred Rock mother produces black chicks, but males have a white dot on their heads. Females grow up black with a few red feathers, males grow up looking like Barred Rocks, with a few stray red feathers. They are sometimes called Rock Reds.

Red sex-links result from a red father and a white or mostly white mother, such as White Rock, Sliver Laced Wyandotte, Rhode Island White or Delaware. Female chicks are buff or red and male chicks are white.

Popular sex link hybrids include Golden Comets (New Hampshire on White Rock) and Cinnamon Queen (New Hampshire on Silver Laced Wyandotte).

Sex Links are not recognized breeds, so they won’t win any prizes at poultry shows. They are commercial chickens, bred to lay eggs.

They lay a lot of eggs for a few years, and then are spent, which means they have laid all the eggs they have.

BREED: Sex LinksSIZE: 6-7 poundsEGG COLOR: White or brownCOMB: Usually singlePLUMAGE: VariesCHARACTERISTICS: Lays lots of eggs READY TO

ORDER?FIND OUR LIST OF BREEDERS AND HATCHERIES ON PAGE 100

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A ctive, spunky and easily tamed, this British bantam breed is currently listed as “threat-ened” on the Conservation Priority List.

Sebrights, named after their developer Sir John Sebright is considered a true bantam breed, as there is no standard version. According to The Livestock Conservancy, Sebright wanted to develop a bantam that was small with laced plumage. In addition to bantams native to that area, it is thought that he crossed the Nankin and Polish breeds to create the coloring and feathering he was looking for.

Jeannette Beranger, Research & Technical Pro-grams Manager of The Livestock Conservancy, says that there are probably fewer than 1,000 breed birds in the United States. Being listed as threatened, she

adds, means that the estimated global population is less than 5,000.

“It could be less,” Beranger says, “but we did not get a lot of response for the census from Sebright breeders. What we do see in shows indicates there’s not a lot and the few out there are having some fertility problems.”

The Sebright was added to the American Poultry Association in 1874, with the most popular and rec-ognized colors being gold and silver. Sexes look very similar, with males weighing in at only 22 ounces. Their laced plumage is quite striking, making them look dreamlike. The wattles are bright red and rounded and are smaller in the female. The breed has a short back, prominent breast and a full tail that is carried at about

Delightful SebrightsThis Smaller Breed Could Be Just Right for Your Backyard

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70 degrees above horizontal. The wings are large and downward sloping. The combs are rose and end in a straight, horizontal spike.

Jenny Kinberg, who has been breeding Sebrights for 22 years, reminds me to never include photos of males with single combs or sickle feathers. “I often see that in poul-try magazine pictures and it discredits the article,” she explains. “They are supposed to have rose combs and hen feathering in the tail.”

Kinberg first fell in love with the breed at a fair.

“The colors are stunning,” she exclaims. “They are living works of art.”

Now, nearly two dozen years later, she is still in love with the breed.

“They are small chickens but they don’t know it and the individuals have lots of personality. As a matter of fact, the birds with the most attitude and spark often make the best show birds,” she said. Kinberg adds that the color pattern is fascinating, which makes an excellent challenge for breeding.

“They are perfect for people that don’t have a lot of space and easy to handle,” Beranger says. “They are calm and make a nice beginner’s bird.

“I didn’t know a chicken could look like that,” Kinberg hears over and over again from friends who are not acquaint-ed with the world of poultry. “They are one of those breeds of chickens that you can show your friends and they will al-ways be amazed,” Kinberg says.

About the size of a pigeon, Se-brights, can be kept just about anywhere, even in very urban yards. They eat very little feed, making them an economical

pet that can give you small tinted cream eggs intermittently. When extra care if provided in the winter, this breed can be long lived. They do best when kept out of drafts and in dry conditions. They can fly well so pen top netting is recommended.

One of the difficulties this threatened breed is facing is due to their limited num-ber of eggs they lay and fertility.

“There have been reports of increased fertility problems and there are breeders working on improving this,” Beranger said. “They may be a challenge to hatch in an incubator and may do best to hatch under a broody hen.”

Since males need warmth to breed, late spring to early summer is ideal breed-ing for much of the county.

Kinberg recommends getting young stock that have been vaccinated for Marek’s or purchasing birds that are past the typical juvenile age of being suscepti-

ble. Some bloodlines are less susceptible than others, Kinberg has noticed. She also suggests joining the ABA (American Bantam Association) as they have an ex-cellent yearbook that has breeder listings. The Sebright Club of America also has a list of breeders.

“They are the premier show bird, and poultry shows are a fascinating hobby with many interesting people you will meet along the way,” Kinberg says. “They easily recognize their owners in a crowd and can be trained to do simple things. They can become very tame, with patience and gentle handling.”

Kenny Coogan, CPBT-KA, is a pet and garden columnist. He shares his one-acre permaculture homestead with ducks and chickens. Please search “Crit-ter Companions by Kenny Coogan” on Facebook to learn more about gardening and poultry as pets.

“They are perfect for people that don’t have a lot of space and easy to handle. They are calm and make a nice beginner’s bird.” — Jeannette Beranger, Livestock Conservancy

74 Backyard Poultry

When we think of poultry, the first thing to come to mind is generally not parasites. However small, parasites can have a big impact on the health of your flock and the success of your poultry program. Chickens deal with

a wide variety of parasites, both internally and externally. Just as there are numerous parasites, there are almost as many different options to treat or manage your flock to keep them safe and healthy. The key to any successful flock is a proper parasite management plan to protect your birds from both internal and external parasites.

Natural RemediesNatural remedies for poultry parasites are a highly debated topic among poultry

owners. While some swear by the efficiency of their natural preventative and cures, others disregard their claims. Most natural remedies work off of various feed addi-tives. Common natural remedies for parasites are garlic, pumpkin seeds, kelp and apple cider vinegar.

featuRe

A Guide to Poultry ParasitesBy alexis gRiffee

floRida

Unlike most chemical wormers, most natural additives and products lack test-ing and verification of efficiency. Due to this, it is critical for you to take in a stool sample from your birds to be tested by a veterinarian. This will show you if your natural deworming protocol is effective in your area.

Chemical Wormers When it comes to choosing a de-

worming product for your flock, there is a lot of confusion. Any time you use a chemical wormer, be sure to follow the


recommended guidelines for retreatment. When treating for certain parasites, this is vital to properly managing the problem. This will ensure that you are able to treat the parasites at various stages in their lifecycle. Also, when using a chemical dewormer, take note of any egg or meat withdrawal times. These suggested times

have been put in place to ensure that no chemical residue is consumed.

To confuse the issue further, not all deworming products will eliminate all species of worms. Due to this, it is rec-ommended that you take a stool sample to your veterinarian for testing. This will tell you exactly what type of parasite you are dealing with so that you can treat it effectively.

If you are on a deworming protocol, be in natural or chemical, and you start noticing unthrifty animals or experience loses, you need to contact your veter-inarian. Often times, uncontrolled or improperly managed parasite problems are confused for other diseases since they share certain symptoms. In the event of a loss of birds, a necropsy can be per-formed to check for parasite damage. If a parasite problem is discovered, then your deworming plan can be amended as needed to address the issue.

INTERNAL PARASITES

TapewormsTapeworms (cestodes) are a very

unique parasite and are one of the most difficult to manage once it has been de-tected. A tapeworm is a long flat worm that is made up of many segments. A tapeworm will shed these small segments, sometimes two to three a day. Each of these segments contains hundreds of eggs. Although, like many other worms, tapeworms are often species specific. However, the tapeworm relies on an in-termediate host to complete its lifecycle and infect other birds. The role of the intermediate host is essentially to act as an incubator for the parasite. When the intermediate host is then eaten, the tapeworm can then infect the host species. Common intermediate hosts of the tape-worm include snails, earthworms, ter-mites, beetles and flies. If you free range your birds, they are at an increased risk of ingesting an intermediate host. However, since a fly is a common intermediate host, it is vital to keep your poultry areas clean to reduce the fly population around your coops. By doing this, you will cut down on possible infection factors. Currently, there are no approved medications to use to treat, or prevent tapeworm infections.

Due to their lifecycle, a tapeworm

Because chickens love to forage, other, more pervasive worms and parasites can infect your flock. Knowing what they are, and what to look for, is important in the daily care of your flock.

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infection is hard to diagnose using a stan-dard fecal test and microscope. Instead, most tapeworm infections are diagnosed by the flock owner when they notice the tapeworm segments shed in their poul-tries waste. The segments off tapeworm will appear like small rice grains in your bird’s stool.

RoundwormsRoundworms can create a massive

problem for your flock. Like most worms, there are several species of roundworms. Large roundworms can be especially dev-astating. Large roundworms wreak havoc on your poultry’s digestive tract. If left untreated, large roundworms will dam-age the bird’s intestines so that they are unable to absorb nutrients. Also, a large infestation can cause intestinal blockage and ultimately, death. If you have an infected flock in need of treatment, use a dewormer with the active ingredient piperazine.

Small roundworms can infect poultry like chickens and ducks; however, the more commonly affect turkey. Some

The key to any successful flock is a proper parasite management plan to protect your birds

from both internal and external parasites.


species of small roundworms can also infect the intestines. However, a large majority of these species can affect the esophagus and crop of infected birds. Signs of infestations of both small and large roundworms are characterized by lethargy, decreased egg production, low fertility rates, and poor growth rates in younger birds. Small roundworms cannot be treated with the same medications as large roundworms. When it comes to controlling an infestation of small roundworms, the dewormer will need to contain levamisole.

Like tapeworms, both large and small roundworm species can also be trans-mitted via intermediate hosts. Common intermediate hosts for roundworms are earthworms, beetles and grasshoppers. If your flock is managed on a free-range principle, you will need to closely mon-itor for roundworms infestations due to this. However, even if your flock is kept in a coop, you will need to ensure the cleanliness of the coop to help minimize contact with intermediate hosts.

CoccidiaAlthough a protozoan and not a

“worm,” coccidia is a parasite that can have devastating consequences for your flock. Like many other parasites, coccidia in poultry is species specific. There is a total of nine different species of coccidia that infect chickens alone! Coccidia is found in the digestive tracts of their host. From here, these protozoans will damage the intestinal lining of the birds. Due to this type of damage, infected birds will not be able to properly break down their food or absorb nutrients. Coccidiosis (the term for the infection caused by coccidia protozoans) is characterized by telltale diarrhea, which can contain blood or in severe cases be yellow and foamy.

Although coccidian is present in almost all poultry, once coccidiosis has been detected at this point, it is often very hard to manage it. Even if you do save the infected birds, chances are that they will remain unthrifty due to the damage in their digestive tract. Due to this, proper management strategies are key to dealing with this parasite. Many producers have opted to use a coccidian vaccine that is given at hatching. Even with this vaccine, it is important to use medicated poultry starter feed. When you introduce your

young birds to your flock or coop, it is vital to introduce them to a clean area that is using an appropriate management program.

The most common chemical treat-ment of coccidiosis is Corid 9.6 percent liquid solution. This product is simply added to the water for a period of five days. Although not as common as Corid, another solution for coccidiosis is Sul-fadimethoxine. Sulfadimethoxine, like Corid, is also added to your poultry’s water source. Due to how damaging and common coccidiosis can be for a flock, many producers use these treatments preemptively on a schedule, as a part of their management program.

External Parasites

Scaly leg mites, Knemidokoptes mu-tans, are a small grey mite the feed on the tissue under the scales of the bird’s leg. An infestation of leg mites is char-acterized by swollen, crusty and thick legs. Often times, the bird’s legs will be painful and they will avoid excessive walking. Even though scaly leg mites are external parasites, treatment for them is recommended to employ both internal and external methods. Internally, a dos-age of Ivermectin is recommended. For external applications, it is recommended to place a thick coating of petroleum jelly on the legs and toes of the birds. This will suffocate the mites that are currently on the legs. In minor infestations, once the mites are successfully eliminated, their legs will return to normal and lose the swelling. However, in the most severe cases, these mites may cause permanent damage to the bird’s legs. Since scaly leg mites can spread easily to other poultry, it is recommended to separate an infected bird from the flock until treatment has been completed. Additionally, infected birds should not be shown, sold or taken around other, healthy flocks.

Poultry Lice There are two categories of poultry

lice, biting and blood sucking. Within these two categories are several different species of poultry louse. Despite being a louse, poultry lice are species specific and fall into the biting lice category. One of the most common lice species to affect poultry is the Chicken Body Louse (Menacanthus stramineus) Unlike some Call 1-800-624-4493

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parasites, poultry lice will complete their entire life cycle on poultry and do not require intermediate hosts. Poultry lice feed on the dead skin cells, scabs and any blood that is on the bird’s skin surface. Signs of a lice infestation are lethargy, constant preening and scratching, and decreased food consumption and egg production. Although they may get on your temporarily while handling infected birds, poultry lice is unable to live and reproduce on humans.

Poultry lice have approximately a three-week life cycle. Due to this, retreat-ment is recommended at approximately three weeks to ensure that the lice’s life cycle is broken effectively. Retreatment is necessary regardless whether you use natural or chemical methods for control. During this time, proper cleaning prac-tices are vital to prevent re-infestations.

Northern Fowl MitesDo not let the name fool you. Although

these mites do prefer cooler weather, the southern and western states are not safe from these parasites. Northern Fowl Mites

are small black or dark brown mites that are commonly found around the chicken’s vent area. Unlike poultry lice, Northern Fowl Mites are blood feeders. Due to this, a severe infestation of mites can cause life threatening anemia in poultry. Although these mites are not able to live perma-nently on a human host, they will bite a human if they find themselves in contact with one. Due to this, Northern Fowl Mites are often confused with poultry lice. Although different, both poultry lice and Northern Fowl Mites can be treated with the same medications. The recommended course of treatment for an infestation of either of these is handled both internally and externally. Often times, Ivermectin is recommended to attack the problem from the inside. However, the application of a topical medication is also suggested.

There are several natural methods that are commonly utilized for controlling these external parasites as well. The most common method is to dust the birds in food grade diatomaceous earth. Other methods include using natural chrysan-themum-based sprays on your poultry.

Recently, some organic poultry producers have reported success in treating mites with a 10 percent garlic solution in water that is simply sprayed around the bird’s vent area.

Regardless of whether you are an advocate of natural or chemical parasite prevention and control methods, the main goal has to be the health and wellbeing of your flock. If your method, chemical or natural, is not working, then as a respon-sible owner, we have the responsibility to choose another product to ensure the health of our animals. Although some infestations are simply not preventable, there are some steps that you can take to ensure that you provide the healthiest environment for your flock. Just like any other animal, cleanliness is vital to your chicken’s health and also for preventing some types of parasites. Knowledge and management of parasites is vital to the health of any flock. Whether you choose to manage parasites naturally or chem-ically, the important thing is that your flock is well cared for and that you have a sound parasite protocol in place.

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BReed pRofile

The Toulouse GoosestoRy and photos By kiRsten lie-nielsen

maine

W hen you envision a goose, chances are that the image that appears in your head is the familiar gray shape of a

Toulouse. Their unkempt gray feathers cover a full, round body, which has been entertaining and feeding farmers for more than a hundred years. Most likely this breed descended from mixed gray farmyard geese and refined and developed into the bird that brought us the delicacy known as foie gras.

Key FactsThere are two varieties of the Toulouse goose.

The “production” variation, which is easily the most common kind, and the “dewlap” version

which is much more unusual and grand in its ap-pearance. Production Toulouse are comparatively slender, with smooth skin under their chins and stately carriage. The production variety is very common, and most backyard geese are produc-tion Toulouse or a mix of this breed.

The dewlap Toulouse is a remarkable and eye-catching creature. It is the largest breed of goose, adults sometimes weighing in at close to 30 pounds. They have unruly gray feathers and noticeable sags of loose skin under the beaks, called a “dewlap”. The dewlap Toulouse was de-veloped from the production variety as a heavy weight breed that would produce high volumes

Toulouse geese are the largest breed of geese, weighing in at close to 30 pounds.

82 Backyard Poultry

of fat, and was used in the production of foie gras. Because of their size and imperturbable attitude, dewlap Toulouse require little space and will quickly out-grow other breeds.

AppearanceBoth varieties of the Toulouse are gray,

with loose feathering and upward-pointing square tails. They have orange beaks and feet. Goslings are gray with black feet and beaks. The production variety is fairly un-remarkable but elegant, with a stout neck and sizable wings.

Dewlap Toulouse have short, thick necks supporting the noticeable, fatty fold of skin, or “dewlap” under their chins. The full, double-lobed abdomen of this goose will usually drag upon the ground. To describe the dewlap Toulouse most accurately you need look no further than the American Poultry Journal of January 1921, where Oscar Grow remarks, “Upon viewing a typical Toulouse Goose one is immediately impressed by its massiveness (…) [T]he abdomen should be ... very deep; in adult individuals, touching the ground and completely filling the space in between the legs.”

TemperamentAs if made lazy by their massive size,

the dewlap Toulouse is one of the most docile and friendly breeds of geese. While an agitated Toulouse can run at quite a clip, they prefer not to move around too much and will spend most of their time near feed. In a stressful environment a dewlap will not be happy. They prefer their surround-ings to be as placid as their temperaments.

The production Toulouse can be a

more aggressive, but they are still known to be relatively quiet geese with pleasant attitudes. Since many production Toulouse have been crossbred, they may pick up traits from other breeds that can effect their temperaments.

Care ConsiderationsThe production Toulouse is one of the

most hardy and easy to care for geese. Ac-customed to free ranging in farmyards, pro-duction Toulouse are good foragers and can withstand cold winters and hot summers.

The dewlap Toulouse is very cold har-dy and can survive cold Northern winters. They will eat all the crumble that they are offered and also enjoy grazing on fresh grass, though they are weak foragers not wishing to wander far. Because of their loose and unkempt feathering, the dewlap Toulouse can sometimes have trouble dry-ing out their feathers after bathing. They need access to dry shelter, especially in winter, where they can preen themselves after a bath.

HistoryIt’s not clear exactly when the produc-

tion Toulouse appeared in farmyards, but there have been references to similar gray farmyard geese as far back as 1555. Popu-lar in the United Kingdom, France and the United States because of their versatility and kind temperaments, the dewlap variety was developed from smaller sized birds.

First recognized by the American Poultry Association in 1874, the dewlap Toulouse quickly became prevalent thanks to its size, which made it popular with farmers who were growing geese for meat. Because the dewlap Toulouse has a lot of loose fat, it renders a large amount of fat, which was found to be useful for lubri-cation and cooking. The French delicacy foie gras is derived from the livers of the dewlap Toulouse. Also valuable before slaughter is the egg production of the dewlap. Females can be relied upon to lay 20 or so extremely large eggs every spring.

Primary UsesWhile it might seem like a bird of this

size is practical only for meat production, the Toulouse goose is a dependable egg layer, with the added benefit of their placid behavior which makes them great pets for a small farm. The Toulouse goose is also an exhibition bird. At poultry fairs its signature features of dewlaps and lobes are judged against other geese for the finest form. An ideal 4-H animal, the Toulouse is sure to draw praises from all visitors to your farm.

Kirsten Lie-Nielsen is a freelance writer and farmer from Liberty, Maine. When not cultivating a growing garden and tending her geese and other animals, she maintains Hostile Valley Living (hosti-levalleyliving.com), hoping to help others learn about self reliance and simple living.

Toulouse geese are fairly independent and easy to care for.

Both varieties of the Toulouse are gray, with loose feathering and upward-pointing square tails. They have

orange beaks and feet. Goslings are gray with black feet and beaks. The production variety is fairly unremarkable

but elegant, with a stout neck and sizable wings.

84 Backyard Poultry

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86

It Will Be Time for Pi(e)

Recipes

photos and stoRy By Janice cole

minnesota

Y es, it’s that time of the year again, time to get your nerd on and celebrate National Pi

Day! This modern holiday, celebrated on March 14, has become a cultural phenomenon uniting math geeks and foodies together. Math nerds like the celebration because the date (3.14) showcases the first three numbers of their favorite mathematical constant or pi, which is the ratio of a circle’s circumference to its diameter and equals 3.14159… (the number goes on infinitely as the answer is a never-end-ing number). The Greek symbol used by mathematicians for a mathematical constant, or pi, is π. Foodies have joined the love of this holiday because all cele-brations require food and Pi Day is one great big excuse to eat pie!

If you’re wondering why you’ve only recently started hearing about Na-tional Pi Day, the first celebration didn’t occur until 1988 and it wasn’t until 2009 that Congress actually passed a resolu-tion recognizing March 14 as National Pi Day. Social media has picked it up

and it’s become a favorite day for puns, pie promotions and mouth-watering pie photos. Still confused? Don’t wor-ry about the mathematics, just get in the spirit and join in the festivities by serving pie.

For a stunning presentation for this year’s Pi Day, try an updated version of one of the following pot pies. Feel free to substitute any poultry or meat for the chicken called for in the recipes. Each can be made ahead of time and is perfect for entertaining or simple family meals.

As American as Chicken Pie?As much as we all love apple pie,

it turns out that chicken and other meat pies are the original American culinary pie heritage. The American Cookery book of 1796 prominently featured recipes for chicken, turkey, beef and pigeon pot pies and included no recipes for apple pie.

In early America, pies were an easy way to stretch a little bit of meat and vegetables to feed an entire family. They didn’t require lots of ingredients or an elaborate bread oven, making them available to the average cook. Savory pies have been popular in Euro-pean cultures since the Roman Empire, where reports of elaborate banquet excesses were said to even include live birds baked in pies which flew out upon cutting the crust, frightening all the

guests and eliminating their appetites (and giving birth to a famous nursery rhyme), I would assume.

As Easy as PieThe following two pies use pie

crusts made with phyllo or puff pastry, meaning you don’t have to worry about making a homemade pie crust. They can both be made ahead of time and baked right before serving.

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The Greek symbol used by mathematicians for a mathematical constant, or pi, is π. Foodies have joined the love of this holiday because all celebrations require food and Pi Day is one great big excuse to eat pie!


It Will Be Time for Pi(e)

Chicken Potpie in a Blanket of Puff Pastry

Tucked under a flaky golden-brown blanket of puff pastry are large chunks of chicken, potatoes and mushrooms in a rosemary-scented sauce. This meal is comfort food at its best.

Ingredients:1 sheet frozen puff pastry (from a 17.3-ounce package)4 tablespoons unsalted butter1/2 cup chopped shallots3 garlic cloves, minced1/2 cup all-purpose flour2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth2 cups (5 ounces) sliced mushrooms12 ounces unpeeled small red pota-toes (4 to 5 potatoes), diced (2 cups)1 cup halved and sliced carrots1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary1/2 teaspoon kosher salt1/4 teaspoon fresh-ly ground pepper3 cups chopped cooked chicken (3/4-inch pieces)3/4 cup frozen baby peas

Directions:Thaw the puff pastry

according to the package directions. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter an 11-by-7-inch glass baking dish or coat with nonstick cooking spray.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the shallots and garlic for 30 to 40 seconds or until they begin to soften and smell fragrant. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Whisk in the broth and bring to a boil. Stir in the mushrooms, pota-toes, carrots, rosemary, salt,

and pepper and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the chicken and peas and simmer for 3 minutes. Spoon the chicken mixture into the baking dish.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the puff pastry to a 13-by-9-inch rectangle. Drape over the baking dish, gently press-ing the pastry where it touches the rim of the dish.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown. Remove from the oven and let sit for five minutes before serving. Use a spoon to scoop out the chicken mixture, topping each serving with a piece of pastry.

Serves 8

From Chicken and Egg: A Memoir of Suburban Homesteading with 125 Recipes By Janice Cole, Chronicle Books 2011

HERE ARE A FEW TIPS TO HELP YOU AS YOU’RE ASSEMBLING THE PIES:• Plan ahead so that all preparation such as thawing of the puff pastry or phyllo dough can happen the day before if possible.

• There is no need for a bottom crust; a flaky crispy top crust is sufficient (see the Chicken Pot Pie recipe).

• Make the filling the day before if possible. This allows the flavors to mingle and blend before baking, making a more flavorful pie.

• Dark poultry meat will add more flavor than white meat but either can be used.

• Keep all surfaces chilled when working with butter or shortening crusts.

• For browner crusts, brush with milk or cream before baking.

• For shiny, deep brown crusts, brush with beaten egg before baking.

• For shiny, lightly golden brown crusts brush with beaten egg white before baking.

• For a super sheen, double-glaze the crust. Brush on egg glaze right before baking and again 5 minutes before the end of baking.

• To avoid dark crusts, cover the edge of the crust halfway through baking if browning too quickly.

• Add flavor and interest to top crusts by sprinkling with sesame seeds, poppy seeds, caraway seeds, or dried or fresh herbs.

Backyard Poultry

Chicken and Spinach Pie

This pie makes a stunning presenta-tion. The crisp, golden-brown, layered phyllo crust surrounds a creamy chicken, spinach and feta filling. Serve it for a casual supper or as part of a brunch. It’s a versatile dish that can be made ahead.

Ingredients:5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil1 large onion, chopped3 garlic cloves, choppedOne 9- to 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry1 1/2 cups chopped cooked chicken 3 eggs3 tablespoons all-purpose flour1 cup cottage cheese5 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1 cup)1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Greek1/4 teaspoon kosher salt1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper16 sheets frozen phyllo dough, thawed (from a 16-ounce box; see Notes.)

Directions:Preheat the oven to 375°F. Heat 1

tablespoon of the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Cook the onion for 3 minutes or until it begins to soften. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Stir in the spinach, and then add the chicken. Remove from the heat and cool in the pan.

Whisk the eggs in a large bowl until blended. Whisk in the flour until smooth. Stir in the spinach mixture, cottage cheese, feta cheese, oregano, salt, and pepper.

Lightly oil a 10-inch deep-dish glass pie plate. Place one sheet of phyllo in the dish, letting the phyllo hang over the edges. Lightly brush with some of the remaining oil. Place a second sheet over the first so that they are crisscross, and lightly brush with oil. Add six more sheets of phyllo, alternating the direction of each sheet around the pie plate so that they crisscross each other and cover the dish completely, brushing each sheet with oil.

Spread the filling over the phyllo. Top with the remaining eight sheets of phyllo, oiling and crisscrossing them as you did the bottom layers. Brush the top layer with oil and scrunch the overhanging phyllo onto the rim of the pie plate to create a free-form edge. Brush any remaining oil on top. Score the top of the pie into eight wedges by lightly cutting into the phyllo with a small, serrated knife.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until golden brown and a knife inserted into the middle comes out clean.

Serves 8

Notes: Thaw the phyllo in the refrigera-tor overnight for the best results. When working with phyllo, lay the sheets on the work surface and cover with a dry towel to keep them from drying out.

The pie can be assembled up to 8 hours ahead of time. Cover and refrig-erate until ready to bake.

From Chicken and Egg: A Memoir of Suburban Homesteading with 125 Recipes By Janice Cole, Chronicle Books 2011

Making a Pie CollarTo avoid dark crusts, make a pie collar out of foil. Place on pies halfway through baking if edges are browning too quickly.

1. Fold one large piece of foil (a little larger than the pie plate) into quarters.

2. Round out the corner edge and cut out the center, leaving a collar of about 3-inches.

3. Unfold the foil revealing a circle of foil. Place over the edge of the crust during baking if the crust is browning too quickly.

90 Backyard Poultry

T he “Rancherette” took her Fuzzy Chicken Band, “On the Road Again,” this past weekend. We usually begin road trips listening to the “The Fuzzy Chicken Band with lead singers, Cowboy, the Cochin, and Zorba, Not the Greek, rehearsing for the “big show,” and this

trip was no different as they practiced by warbling out, “On the Road Again”. Cowboy crows the lead and Zorba harmonizes, (Cowboy pictures himself as Willie Nelson), and, of course, he makes a few changes to the lyrics.

On the road againJust can’t wait to get on the road againThe life I love is seein’ chicken friends againAnd I can’t wait to get on the road again

On the road againGoin’ places that I’ve never beenSeein’ things that I may not want see again, But I can’t wait to get on the road again.

On the Road AgainOne Bit of Fun and Satire … for the Road

foR the love of hoBBy

stoRy and photos By pete RoBeRtson

Don’t forget to � nd us on Facebook.

92 Backyard Poultry

I apologize, Mr. Nelson; I am only the bus driver, not the manager. I know you were making music with your friends and you had absolutely nothing to do with chicken bands. But you do not have to listen to these squawking birds for another four-hour trip. I do. They have the most up-to-date and comfortable seats in the bus and they still complain. (Only a personal opin-ion, after all, this Fuzzy Chicken Band has won numerous awards from their performances).

This particular road trip sent us to the West Texas Fair and Rodeo, in Abilene, Texas, for another live chicken show performance. After consulting with the Fuzzy Chicken Band, their agent (and manager), the “Rancherette,” booked this performance; however, I think she has an inside connection. The Fuzzy Chicken Band only plays at marquee performance halls and the Taylor County Expo Center in Abilene was certainly one of those.

Regardless, every musical group has a bus driver, so I went along to provide the chauffeuring for the trip. I am also in charge of providing accommodations and cuisine for the “Rancherette” and the bus driver. I’m always looking for restaurant signs along the way that say “bus drivers eat free.” That appeals to me, for financial reasons of course. Typically the “Rancherette” prefers a different epicurean adventure.

Now the Fuzzy Chicken Band can eat anywhere and anything; however, they have their own special cuisine, con-cocted by their handler. The “Rancher-ette” is in charge of that department. Yet, when it comes to eating, no one can match up with “Cowboy, the Cochin,” who happens to be the lead singer — not even the Little Cochin Sisters, who have their own reputation to maintain.

After, or should I say, during, the rehearsing by Cowboy and Zorba, the Little Cochin Sisters were warming their vocal cords with this little ditty:

This was only a one-night stand,

and they, meaning the band, were

exhausted from their performance,

thus the drive home was one of

mostly silence. I, being the bus

driver, was happy about that.


“Abilene, AbilenePrettiest town I ever seen.Hope the judges don’t treat me meanIn Abilene, my Abilene.”

I apologize to Mr. George Hamilton IV. He sang it much better, but, as I told Mr. Nelson, I am only the bus driver, not the Fuzzy Chicken Band’s manager.

Eventually, we arrived at the Taylor County Expo Center, where the Fuzzy Chicken Band would be performing, along with other chicken bands in a contest to determine which band or performer is better. However, the band was a little disappointed in their dress-ing rooms. But being the troupers they are, they would manage. Cowboy did occupy a prominent location and was happy about that; however, Zorba was relegated to a lesser spot.

The Cochin Sisters are happy as long as they have sufficient food and water. When they do not, they get happy feet. Their stage is not large enough for performing the Chicken Dance, yet they still do their little happy dance.

Cowgirl joins The Cochin Sisters in the Cochin Trio performing their own work “Pecking and Scratching” and the Little Motown Clucking Silkies, with Cowgirl in the lead, presented one of their oldie favorites, “R E S P E C T,” (again with apologies, this time to Aretha Franklin). They still get requests for other clucking songs and also auto-graphs. They are happy to oblige. But Cowboy stole the show. He received numerous standing ovations for his per-formance and a very élite accolade. He was the only one to receive this award from all the fuzzy chicken bands there. Other members of the band did well, with a few first place awards.

This was only a one-night stand, and they, meaning the band, were exhausted from their performance, thus the drive home was one of mostly silence. I, be-ing the bus driver, was happy about that. I couldn’t wait until I got back home and put the bus in the garage.

And speaking of the bus, Cowboy, being the star, wants a new ride. He chose a big chicken (pictured), of course.

DEDICATED TO PROMOTING ANDPROTECTING STANDARD-BRED POULTRY

Benefits include:Quarterly Newsletter-Annual YearbookOfficially Sanctioned Shows and Judges

JOIN TODAY-Dues: $20 per year or $50 for 3 yearsJunior members $15 per year or $40 for 3 years

American Poultry AssociationPO Box 306, Burgettstown, Pa. 15021

Phone: 724-729-3459 - Email: [email protected]: amerpoultryassn.com

AmericAn Poultry AssociAtion

94 Backyard Poultry

O ne of the things you realize when you first get a duck is, boy, ducks are nothing like cats, dogs or

hamsters. And that’s a good thing, right? I mean when’s the last time anyone described getting organized as lining up his or her hamsters? Huh? Huh?

And the advantages go far beyond row creation. In fact, in my semi-vast expe-rience with home-based animals, I have to say that ducks are by far the easiest to train. They’re smart, they take instructions and they remember what they’ve learned from one day to the next which is better than — wait, what was I saying? Right, ducks have better memories than some humans I could mention.

Ahem.So, the trick with getting ducks to do

what you want them to do is pretty simple. You just have to use a method I call Show Tell Repeat. I decide what it is I want the girls to do then I Show them what I want, Tell them as I do it and then Repeat. Over

How to Train A Duck

By loRi fontanes

Quack me up

Just foR fun

and over and over and over until either I collapse/go hoarse or they finally take pity on me and Just Freakin’ Do It.

Whichever century comes first.But, honestly, it’s much easier than it

might seem. Take, for example, pen-up time in winter. Snow on the ground does add some extra excitement to the time-to-go-to-bed game. It comes down to the depth and type of accumulation. If it is only an inch or two, then no prob. I can navigate the landscape in my regular boots as I coax the girls inside with my cheerful (okay, annoying) “pen-up song”. But if there’s even a hint of ice, however, that means getting out the ski poles and strapping on the crampons.

Arguably, though, the worse conditions are the in-between ones: 6 to 12 inches and a layer of ice on top. The ducks don’t sink but I sure as heck do and last winter I swear I heard the squirrels giggle as I plunged through the snowpack like a wounded mastodon.

So, the trick with getting ducks to do

what you want them to do is pretty

simple. You just have to use a method I

call Show Tell Repeat.


I knew I shouldn’t have gone for those last 12 candy canes.

Anyway, it might be easier to explain my unique methodology if I share an actual tale from the Art of Duck Herdery. One polar evening a couple years back, I managed to corral four of our then five ducks, but couldn’t get Fannie, our inde-pendent-minded Cayuga, to cooperate. Cayugas, as you know, are intelligent, canny birds with a perpetual gleam in their avian eyes, which surely translates as Game On, Human.

This particular February eve, I’d blithely ignored my own guidelines and skipped the mountain-climbing gear even though the pen looked more like an igloo than a coop container. After all, the first part had gone so ridiculously well, so how hard could it be to secure the last 20 percent of our total duck holdings?

Right.Fannie took one look at my ill-dressed

self and, like a truculent toddler, decided she didn’t quite want to go to bed yet. Whenever it seemed she would head in-side, she then veered off and took another lap. Huffing and puffing, I lost count of how many times we passed the open door, her fellow fowl quacking in species sup-port. For reasons I will never comprehend, she finally caved and blithely waddled into the pen as if a midwinter marathon had been her goal all along. It’s a bit hard to hear with earmuffs on top of a fur cap but I think the other hens gave her high fives.

You go, girl!Back in the toasty comfort of the

kitchen, I revived my fingers and glanced down at the pedometer I’d picked up after New Year’s. Wow! Twenty-three thousand steps! Raising backyard poultry is a great way to fulfill those resolutions, I mused, as I dug around in the pantry for overlooked holiday candy. Furthermore, except for a few outlier incidents, conditioning water-fowl is ridiculously simple. It just takes patience, persistence, a sense of the absurd and winter boots with excellent tread.

And that, my friends, is all you really need to train a human.

Hey, wait!

Lori Fontanes is a humor writer based in New York and writes regularly for Back-yard Poultry. She also writes about her flock at www.whattheducks.com. www.backyardpoultrymag.com

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Have You Hugged Your CHICKEN Today?

96 Backyard Poultry

Hello Poultry Pals!

Minute Mystery

ANSWER ON NEXT PAGE

Gertrude McCluck, Chicken in Charge is assisted by

chicken wrangler Cyndi Gernhart. Find out more about

Gertrude and her book series for children and other fun activities

at: GertrudeMcCluck.com.

Youth:

Jokes…Get the Yolk? Q: How do chickens bake a cake? A: From scratch!

Q: What do chickens serve at birthday parties?A: Coop-cakes!

Q: What did the chicken say when it laid a square egg?A: Ouch!

Fun Facts• Organic and cage-free shell eggproduction accounted for 10% ofcurrent table egg layer flock.• The USDA reports that the averageperson ate 265 eggs in 2016, up 15 eggsover the last five years. The highest percapita egg consumption occurred in1945 when each American ate 404 eggsin a year. The lowest was 229 eggs perperson in 1991.• The top five egg producing stateslast year were Iowa, Ohio, Indiana,Pennsylvania and Texas. They represent more than half of all U.S. hens.(source: American Egg Board)

C.I.C. log, Coop Date 02.05.2017“Auntie Gertrude! Something’s wrong with one of the baby chicks,” Gabby tugged on my wing, “You have to come to the nursery. Now!”

We waddled to the shed door to find a brood of hens gathered around the special box where our pride and joy learned to scratch, peck and be a chicken.

“Oh, it’s just awful!” crowed Babs, “an ‘ugly duckling’ on our farm.”

“Have you ever seen such…such…non-conformity?” snapped Rose, a buff orpington with more attitude than feathers.

Curious, I waddled to the box where a chick slid under the wing of a Cochin hen.

“Hello, Cheery. How are Pride and Joy doing?”

“Oh Gertrude, they are eating and growing right along,” she stretched her neck to my ear and whispered, “but I have to admit that my Joy stands out from the flock.”

Just then two eyes peeked out and Cheery gently nudged the chick with her feathered foot.

“Hello, Joy. I’ve heard so much about you. May I take a look at you?” I smiled.

“Hello, Ms. Getwude. Everyting was ok ‘til I lost my downy fedders and dese udder ones grew in,” she dragged her claw through the bedding. “No matter how I preen, dey won’t lay down nice like my sister’s.”

I pulled out my trusty spyglass and examined Joy’s feathers. Instead of lying flat, Joy’s feathers curved outward and forward, as if she were in a constant wind storm. I noticed Pride preening her flat feathers. Same hatch, same color, different feathers. Had an imposter snuck an egg under Cheery?

I plugged this information into my bird brain. Rattle-rattle-buzz-ding! I knew why Joy’s feathers were coming in different than her sister’s or mother’s.

“Don’t worry, Joy. You are normal, but your feathers will always have a gorgeous fluff in them.”

Why wouldn’t Joy’s feathers lay down?

Hello Poultry Pals,It’s the most wonderful time of the year! (And it has nothing to do with the winter holidays that have passed.) As the old crooner Tom Pullet sang, “The waiting is the hardest part!” Of course I am talking about hatching season being around the corner. Hopes are as high as the time Babs flew over the coop evading the neighbor’s dog. With the incubator rolled out and cleaned, the hum of the motor lulls us to sleep every night. Twenty-one (or more) days can seem like forever, but there will be more than love in the air by Feb. 14: a chorus of peeping! Here’s hoping all of your hopes and dreams take flight this spring.

Keep your comb clean,Gertrude McCluck, CIC

Favorites From Dec 16/Jan 17 Issue:• “What the Cluck, How did I get in here???”— AllieJohnson, Washington• “I had a nightmare I was in something like this withnoodles!” — Jeff Baightel, Ohio• “I wonder – will they find my egg in here?” — Vickie W.Daves, North Carolina• “I’ve won every hide and seek game I've played so far!” — Elijah Parks, Nebraska• “OH NO, I just pooped!” — John Wilson, Georgia

E-MAIL your caption idea by February 10 along with your name and stateto [email protected] OR MAIL to Baack Talk, 159 Hall Dr. S,Montgomery, TX 77316. Selection for publication in a future issue will beat the discretion of Backyard Poultry. Name and state will be printed withresponse unless otherwise requested.

What is this

duck saying? What

is this

chicksaying

?

Baack Talk

Find 16 words having to do with poultry names in the puzzle below. After you have found all of the words, start at the top left hand side of the puzzle and working left to right, write in any unused letters in the blanks below to discover the riddle and find its answer.

Word Search: Poultry Names

Riddle: What ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___

___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ‘ ___ 6 ___ ___ ___

___ ___ ___ ___ ?

Answer: 7 ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___!

CHICKCHICKENCOCKCOCKEREL

DRAKEDUCKDUCKLINGGANDER

GOOSEHENPOULTPOULTRY

PULLETROOSTERTOMTURKEY

WORD SEARCH ANSWER:

As a Cochin breed, Joy was born with frizzle feathering, a condition where the feathers flip out instead of down. It doesn’t show up in a baby chick until they lose their downy feathers. The Cochin breed is one of several that can produce both flat and frizzle feathering in its offspring. The frizzle trait does not breed true, so some chicks from a clutch develop normal feathering and others are frizzled. Both are categorized as Cochins. Joy learned to embrace her uniqueness and enjoy her showy style.

MINUTE MYSTERY ANSWER:


Hello Poultry Pals!

Minute Mystery

ANSWER ON NEXT PAGE

Gertrude McCluck, Chicken in Charge is assisted by

chicken wrangler Cyndi Gernhart. Find out more about

Gertrude and her book series for children and other fun activities

at: GertrudeMcCluck.com.

Youth:

Jokes…Get the Yolk? Q: How do chickens bake a cake? A: From scratch!

Q: What do chickens serve at birthday parties?A: Coop-cakes!

Q: What did the chicken say when it laid a square egg?A: Ouch!

Fun Facts• Organic and cage-free shell eggproduction accounted for 10% ofcurrent table egg layer flock.• The USDA reports that the averageperson ate 265 eggs in 2016, up 15 eggsover the last five years. The highest percapita egg consumption occurred in1945 when each American ate 404 eggsin a year. The lowest was 229 eggs perperson in 1991.• The top five egg producing stateslast year were Iowa, Ohio, Indiana,Pennsylvania and Texas. They represent more than half of all U.S. hens.(source: American Egg Board)

C.I.C. log, Coop Date 02.05.2017“Auntie Gertrude! Something’s wrong with one of the baby chicks,” Gabby tugged on my wing, “You have to come to the nursery. Now!”

We waddled to the shed door to find a brood of hens gathered around the special box where our pride and joy learned to scratch, peck and be a chicken.

“Oh, it’s just awful!” crowed Babs, “an ‘ugly duckling’ on our farm.”

“Have you ever seen such…such…non-conformity?” snapped Rose, a buff orpington with more attitude than feathers.

Curious, I waddled to the box where a chick slid under the wing of a Cochin hen.

“Hello, Cheery. How are Pride and Joy doing?”

“Oh Gertrude, they are eating and growing right along,” she stretched her neck to my ear and whispered, “but I have to admit that my Joy stands out from the flock.”

Just then two eyes peeked out and Cheery gently nudged the chick with her feathered foot.

“Hello, Joy. I’ve heard so much about you. May I take a look at you?” I smiled.

“Hello, Ms. Getwude. Everyting was ok ‘til I lost my downy fedders and dese udder ones grew in,” she dragged her claw through the bedding. “No matter how I preen, dey won’t lay down nice like my sister’s.”

I pulled out my trusty spyglass and examined Joy’s feathers. Instead of lying flat, Joy’s feathers curved outward and forward, as if she were in a constant wind storm. I noticed Pride preening her flat feathers. Same hatch, same color, different feathers. Had an imposter snuck an egg under Cheery?

I plugged this information into my bird brain. Rattle-rattle-buzz-ding! I knew why Joy’s feathers were coming in different than her sister’s or mother’s.

“Don’t worry, Joy. You are normal, but your feathers will always have a gorgeous fluff in them.”

Why wouldn’t Joy’s feathers lay down?

Hello Poultry Pals,It’s the most wonderful time of the year! (And it has nothing to do with the winter holidays that have passed.) As the old crooner Tom Pullet sang, “The waiting is the hardest part!” Of course I am talking about hatching season being around the corner. Hopes are as high as the time Babs flew over the coop evading the neighbor’s dog. With the incubator rolled out and cleaned, the hum of the motor lulls us to sleep every night. Twenty-one (or more) days can seem like forever, but there will be more than love in the air by Feb. 14: a chorus of peeping! Here’s hoping all of your hopes and dreams take flight this spring.

Keep your comb clean,Gertrude McCluck, CIC

Favorites From Dec 16/Jan 17 Issue:• “What the Cluck, How did I get in here???”— AllieJohnson, Washington• “I had a nightmare I was in something like this withnoodles!” — Jeff Baightel, Ohio• “I wonder – will they find my egg in here?” — Vickie W.Daves, North Carolina• “I’ve won every hide and seek game I've played so far!” — Elijah Parks, Nebraska• “OH NO, I just pooped!” — John Wilson, Georgia

E-MAIL your caption idea by February 10 along with your name and stateto [email protected] OR MAIL to Baack Talk, 159 Hall Dr. S,Montgomery, TX 77316. Selection for publication in a future issue will beat the discretion of Backyard Poultry. Name and state will be printed withresponse unless otherwise requested.

What is this

duck saying? What

is this

chicksaying

?

Baack Talk

Find 16 words having to do with poultry names in the puzzle below. After you have found all of the words, start at the top left hand side of the puzzle and working left to right, write in any unused letters in the blanks below to discover the riddle and find its answer.

Word Search: Poultry Names

Riddle: What ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___

___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ‘ ___ 6 ___ ___ ___

___ ___ ___ ___ ?

Answer: 7 ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___!

CHICKCHICKENCOCKCOCKEREL

DRAKEDUCKDUCKLINGGANDER

GOOSEHENPOULTPOULTRY

PULLETROOSTERTOMTURKEY

WORD SEARCH ANSWER:

As a Cochin breed, Joy was born with frizzle feathering, a condition where the feathers flip out instead of down. It doesn’t show up in a baby chick until they lose their downy feathers. The Cochin breed is one of several that can produce both flat and frizzle feathering in its offspring. The frizzle trait does not breed true, so some chicks from a clutch develop normal feathering and others are frizzled. Both are categorized as Cochins. Joy learned to embrace her uniqueness and enjoy her showy style.

MINUTE MYSTERY ANSWER:

98 Backyard Poultry

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100 Backyard Poultry110 Backyard Poultry

Backyard Poultry Breeders DirectoryHave birds for sale? Advertise in the Backyard Poultry Breeders Directory for less than $4.50 a month. Your ad will be seen by more than 100,000 poultry enthusiasts. Call 800-551-5691 to get your advertisement in!

Associations

Ameraucana

Buff Orpington

Cream Legbar

Game Birds

Aseels

Ayam Cemani

Barred Rock

Buckeye

AMERAUCANA ALLIANCE. Membership includes quarterly Ameraucana Newsletters and registration on the Ameraucana Forum. Members are eligible for club awards & exhibitor points. First time members receive an Ameraucana Handbook. Dues are $10 (Newsletters Emailed) or $15 (Newsletters mailed). <Ameraucana.org> Gina Neta, Secretary/Treasurer, 8771 Kosmal Ln, Lena WI 54139.

AMERICAN BRAHMA CLUB, Diana DeLaney, Sec./Treas., 12312 L Drive North, Battle Creek, MI 49014. 269-589-4020. <[email protected]> <www.americanbrahmaclub.org> Promoting the Majestic Ones! USA & Canada Membership dues: $20/year or $50 for 3 year membership, $10/year Junior membership.

AMERICAN EMU ASSOCIATION, 510 West Madison St., Ottawa, IL 61350. 541-332-0675. <[email protected]> <www.aea-emu.org> Emu.

CHANTECLER FANCIERS INTERNATIONAL, Mike Gilbert, Secretary, W5171 Baker Rd., Hol-men, WI 54636. 608-857-3386 (Call before 9 PM CST.) <[email protected]> <http://chantecler.club>

PENNSYLVANIA AVICULTURAL SOCIETY, Kerry Teats, President, Barb Teats, Treasury, PO Box 95, Reeders, PA 18352. 908-752-9515. Please visit our website: <paavsoc.com>. Spring Swap/Mtg. at Clearfield, PA Fairgrounds. Big Fall Tailgate/Mtg. at Lake Tobias Wildlife Park, Halifax, PA.

SEBRIGHT CLUB OF AMERICA, Herbert R. Rogers, 1023 Beam Rd., Denver, PA 17517. 717-314-5323, <[email protected]> Qaurterly newsletters, membership directory, Cash awards at sponsored shows, dues $20/year.

WISCONSIN BIRD AND GAME BREEDERS, Jim Bleuer, President, 1756 E. Scott St., Omro, WI 54963. 920-379-6188. <wbagba.org> Annual Fall Show & Swap and Spring Swap at Fond du lac County Fairgrounds Expo Center. 2016 Fall=Sat., October 29, 6:30am-1:30pm & 2017 Spring=Sat., March 11, 2017 6:30am-Noon.

WYANDOTTE BREEDERS OF AMERICA, Dr. Don-ald Monke, Sec./Treas., 7481 Plain City Georges-ville Rd., Plain City, OH 43064. 614-873-8106. <[email protected]>

MichiganFowl Stuff, FowlStuff.com, John W Blehm, 4599 Lange Rd., Birch Run, Michigan 48415. Large fowl chickens: buff, lavender, silver & black Ameraucanas. Bantam chickens: buff, lavender, silver & wheaten Ameraucanas, plus Vorwerks, Lakenvelders & silver spangled Hamburgs.

PennsylvaniaGREEN VALLEY STABLES, Joe Ambrose, PO Box 511, Vanderbilt, PA 15486. 724-323-4948. <[email protected]> <www.thegreenvalleystables.com> 100% Pure Aseel and Red Jungle Fowl hatching eggs. Send $50 per dozen shipping included.

VirginiaStonehaus Farms Aviary, 59 Forsythia Dr, Martinsville, Virgina, 24112, 276-957-4048, <www.Stonehausfarms.net> Breeding one of the rarest and most exotic birds, the Ayam Cemani. Call for details and availability.

North CarolinaBILLY PLACE FARM, Cynthia Glasscoe, East Bend, North Carolina. 336-699-2677.<[email protected]> Barred Plymouth Rocks, Red Dorkings. Chicks. NPIP# 55-1077.

CaliforniaCENTRAL VALLEY BUCKEYES, Atwater, CA. 831-212-0173. <[email protected]> <www.centralvalleybuckeyes.weebly.com> Day-old heritage breed chicks shipped. (NPIP#CA409). Pick-up or delivery in central and northern California.

VirginiaWILLOW SPRING FARM, Rural Retreat, Virginia. 276-782-0499. We Sell Day Old Chicks (local pickup only) & Hatching Eggs.

AlambamaVALLEY FARMS HATCHERY, 4270 Ricks Ln, Leighton, AL 35646. 256-324-9078. <www.facebook.com/chicksatvalleyfarmshatchery> Rhode Island Red and Buff Orpington. We are NPIP Certified. Chicks are hatched and shipped weekly.

WisconsinWICK PLACE FARM, 1907 43rd St., Caledonia, WI 53108. 414-708-4057. <[email protected]> <http://Wickplacefarm.com> Cream Legbars. Black Copper Marans, Olive Eggers, Orpingtons. NPIP certified.

ArkansasLINEBARGER FARMS, Eddie Linebarger, PO Box 35, Scotland, AR 72141. 501-592-3317. <edd ie . l i neba rge r@gma i l . com> Qua i l : Tennessee Red, Valley, Mountain, Gambel, and Blue Scale.

IndianaWOODSIDE AVIARY, James Kotterman, Peru, Indiana. 765-985-2805. PHEASANT ENTHUSIASTS check this out! Displaying full color the Golden Pheasant, Ghigi Golden, Lady Amherst, Silvers, Swinhoe, Elliots and Blue Eared. NO CATALOG AVAILABLE. Give me a call and we’ll talk about the birds!

MinnesotaOAKWOOD GAME FARM, INC., PO Box 274, Princeton, MN 55371. 800-328-6647.

<www.oakwoodgamefarm.com> Pheasant & Chukar Partridge chicks & eggs available.

IllinoisJOE VIVIAN, 1796 Lee Center Rd, Amboy, IL 61310. 815-632-7254. A very nice selection of 2016 hatched Black Jersey Giants Cockerals and Pullets, available after 10/1/2016. Welcome to come to my farm and select stock or I will ship.

IndianaQUALITY GENTLE JERSEY GIANTS SINCE 1977. Nicely laced blues/black/splash colors. Producers of large brown eggs/meat/4-H-APA winners/ship-ping. No catalog available. Maria Hall. Texting 502-548-1075, www.mariasjerseygiants.com.

TennesseeCHICK N STUFF FARM– in Crump, Tennessee. (Mail: PO Box 87, Adamsville, TN 38310) 901-490-0022, 731-607-7324. Large Fowl Breeds: Jersey Giant, Brahma, Barred Rock, American Buff Orpington, Jubilee & Mottled English Orpington, White & Exchequer Leghorn, Cream Legbar & Salmon Faverolle. Also Heritage Bronze & Nar-ragansett Turkey. NPIP/APA. Experienced egg shipper. See us on Facebook.

ArkansasLIVE BIRD SHIPPING BOXES /USPS Approved. BoxesForBirds.com <[email protected]> 501-329-2377. Rare Pigeons.

South CarolinaHT AUSTIN, 1766 Homestead Rd., Bowman, SC 29018. 803-308-1203. Show quality fancy pigeons–Jacobins, Fantails, and German Owls. Doves–Diamond and assorted Ringnecks.

MassachusettsANTONIO R. FERREIRA, JR., 49 Chestnut St., Seekonk, MA 02771. 401-465-1662. Northern Bobwhite Quail. Eggs: $11.75/12, $23.50/24, $49/50. Postpaid.

North CarolinaGEORGE PARKER, 768 Moores Ln., Lumberton, NC 28358. 910-374-8176. 6 flight condition Bob White OR Tennessee Red Quail. $124/shipped, 12 Quail, $180/shipped. Express Mail to your post office.

ALABAMBAVALLEY FARMS HATCHERY, Ryan Kelsey, PO Box 2201, Muscle Shoals, AL, 35662. 256-661-4911. <www.valleyfarmshatchery.com> <[email protected]> Rhode Island Red, Buff Orpington, Black Australorp. NPIP Certified. Hatching/Shipping weekly.

IllinoisHUTCHINSON FARM, Rollie Hutchinson, 15793 500th St., Orion, IL 61273. 309-749-8277. <[email protected]> Rhode Island Reds–100 year heritage flock. 100% Underwood bloodlines.

Jersey Giants

Large Fowl

Pigeons

Quail

Rhode Island Reds

www.countrysidenetwork.com 101February/March 2017 www.CountrysideNetwork.com 111February/March 2017

FloridaBLACKBURN’S QUALITY BANTAMS, Wayne Blackburn, PO Box 736, Anthony, FL 32617. 352-236-0359. Sebrights: Golden, Silver & Buff; Wyandottes: Silver Laced & Golden Laced.

CaliforniaAMBER WAVES BEARDED BANTAM SILK-IES, 1320 Mountain Ave., Norco, CA 92860. 951-233-4231. <[email protected]> <http://showsilkies.com> Chicks available year-round. We ship nationwide by USPS Express Mail. Credit Cards Welcome. Private Breeder NPIP CA-308.

OhioSECOND CHANCE HERITAGE TURKEY FARM, Kathryn King, 9011 Branch Rd., Scio, OH 43988. 330-739-5054. <[email protected]> <www.2ndchanceheritageturkeys.com> Adults, eggs, feathers, poults, Narrangansett, Oregon Greys, Royal Palms, White Hollands, Chocolate, mixed.

ColoradoWaltz’s Ark Ranch, Delta, CO <www.naturalark.com> Rare & Heritage Poultry, NPIP & AI clear. Sussex: Light, Buff, Coronation, Red, Speckled, Silver. English Orpington: Black, Blue Splash, Gold Laced, Jubilee, Red, Lavender, Chocolate. Swedish Flower Hen, Marans, Breda, Augsburger, Isbar, Sultan, Sicilian Buttercup, Ayam Cemani, Sweetgrass Turkeys, & more. No Catalog, Online Only!

FloridaGREENFIRE FARMS, www.greenfirefarms.com. Ultra-rare imported breeds: Ayam Cemani, Cream Legbar, Swedish Flower Hens, Bielefelder, Marans, Isbar, Barbezieux, Bresse, Sulmtaler, Spitzhauben, Olandsk Dwarf, Orust, Barnevelder, Merlerault, Niederrheiner, Marsh Daisy, Altsteirer, East Frisian Gull, Lyonaisse, Malines, Pavlovskaya, Queen Silvia, Swedish Black Hen, Sussex, Twentse, Lavender Wyandotte, Yamato Gunkei.

GeorgiaBOB’S BIDDIES, LLC, Bob & Diane Berry, 2155 Weaver Dr., Ray City, GA 31645. 229-455-6437 or 229-375-1991. <[email protected]> <www.bobsbiddies.com> Small-Medium flock growers. Two types of heavy brown egg layers, two types of pasture broilers, and four hertiage

breed brown egg layers. Heavy egg layers and broilers available all year! Fast growing, Minimal feed required - GREAT NATURAL HAPPY CHICK-ENS! NPIP certified, Non-GMO/No soy feed for all natural chicks. Shipping available on all birds. WE EXCEPT ALL ORDERS.

IllinoisANDY ANDERSON, 17496 E. 1000 Rd., Mt. Carmel, IL 62863. 618-262-8389. Call after 6 PM. Hatching eggs–$17 per dozen freight paid. Wyandotte bantams: Partridge, Buff, Blue Laced, Black, Golden Laced, Columbian. Buff Orpington. Old English: Brown Red, Spangled, Wheaten, Mille Fleur.

CHICKEN SCRATCH POULTRY, Larry & Angela McEwen, RR3 Box 44, McLeansboro, IL 62859. 618-643-5602. <[email protected]> <www.chickenscratchpoultry.com> Coronation Sussex, Light Sussex, Lavender Orpington, Chocolate Orpington, Jubilee Orpington, Black Copper Marans, Blue Copper Marans, Blue Laced Red Wyandotte, Lavendar Wyandotte, Cream Legbar, Welsummers, Blue Ameraucana, Black Ameraucana, Rumpless Araucana, Olive Egger, Ayam Cemani.

IndianaHIDDEN CREEK FARM, Matt John, Columbus, Indiana. 812-603-7722. <[email protected]> <http://hcfarm.com> Several varieties of Exhibition and Heirloom poultry as well as Bantams and Waterfowl. Chicks will be available beginning in January.

IowaCOUNTY LINE HATCHERY, 2977 Linn Buch-anan Rd., Coggon, IA 52218. 319-350-9130. <www.countylinehatchery.com> Rare and fancy peafowl, guineas, chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese, bantams and more. Featuring Showgirls & Silkies. Most economical and diverse poultry assortment available.

WELP HATCHERY, Box 77, Bancroft, IA 50517. 800-458-4473. <www.welphatchery.com> Specializing in Cornish Rock broilers. Also offering baby chicks, ducklings, goslings, bantams, exotics, turkeys, guineas, pheasants. Free catalog. MC/Visa/Discover.

MissouriCACKLE HATCHERY®, PO Box 529, Lebanon, MO 65536. 417-532-4581. <[email protected]> <www.cacklehatchery.com> 78 years of hatching and shipping baby chicks. FREE COLOR CATALOG, 193 varieties.

CHICKENS FOR BACKYARDS, PO Box 635, Phillipsburg, MO 65722. 888-412-6715. Order As Low As 3 Chicks, Heritage chicken breeds, Ducks, Guinea and Turkey. <www.chickensforbackyards.com>

PennsylvaniaTHE CHICKEN BARN, Ephraim Stoltzfus, Felton, PA. 717-927-6705. Selling 19 week old Pullets!

Barred Rocks, Sexlinks, White Leghorns, Buff Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, New Hampshire Reds, Black Australorps, Ameraucanas, Dominiques, Welsumers, Golden Laced Wyandottes, Delawares, Speckled Sussex, Rhode Island Whites, Marans, White Rocks, California Grey, California White, Lakenvelders, Pheasants and more!

TexasCLABORN FARMS, PO Box 194, Ross, TX 76684. 254-829-5331 <[email protected]> <www.ClabornFarms.com> Chickens: New Hamp-shires, Black Austalorps, Welsummers, Delawares, Barred Rocks, Dark Cornish, Red Dorkings, Mottled Javas, New Hampshire x Delaware Cross, Buff Orpingtons (limited availability); Turkeys: Bronze, Beltsville White

VirginiaStonehaus Farms Aviary, 59 Forsythia Dr, Martinsville, Virgina, 24112, Ph 276-957-4048, <www.Stonehausfarms.net> Breeding one of the rarest and most exotic birds, the Ayam Cemani. Also breeding Blue Andalusian, Silkies, and White Crested Polish. Call for details and availability.

WashingtonBAXTER BARN, 31929 SE 44th St., Fall City, WA 98024. 425-765-7883. (Tues. thru Sat. 10AM-5PM by appointment.) <[email protected]> <Baxterbarn.org> All breeds of poultry. Chicks & hens. Pickup only. Email for list.

MinnesotaJOHNSON’S WATERFOWL, 36882 160th Ave. NE, Middle River, MN 56737. 218-222-3556. <www.johnsonswaterfowl.com> Buff & White African geese. Rouen, Silver Appleyard, Pekin, White & Black Crested, Saxony, Black & Blue Magpies, Penciled, White, Blue, Black, Grey (Mallard), and Emory Penciled Runners, White, Grey, Snowy, Black, Penciled, Blue Bibbed & Pastel Call duck-lings. Free brochure.

ROTH FARMSTEAD, Jay Richards, 16503 Klond-ike Rd., Brownsville, MN 55919. 507-542-4570. West Of England Geese.

OregonHOLDERREAD WATERFOWL FARM & PRESERVATION CENTER, Mill ie & Dave Holderread, PO Box 492, Corvallis OR 97339. 541-929-5338. <[email protected]> <www.holderreadfarm.com>Silver Appleyard; Saxony; Welsh Harlequin; Golden Cascade; Dutch Hook Bills; Rare colors of Calls;Silkie Ducks. Embden; Brown, Buff Africans; Dewlap Toulouse; American Blue; American Lavender; Shetland; Oregon Mini-Geese.

Sebrights

Silkies

Turkeys

VariousWaterfowl

ClassifiedsBackyard Poultry

Car Ports Hen SaddlesDried Mealworms

Do It Yourself

Amish Chicken Pens, Car Ports, Garages, Metal Build-ings.Cars, Trucks, Campers, Farm Machinery Covers. 12Wx 20L - $895, 18W x 20L - ONLY $995. Installed Free. American Made! Herbert Welch, 410-920-4011.

Prevent posts from rotting. Quick–Easy–Effective–Low-Cost. Get info 1-888-519-5746.

Fencing

Mealworms by the Pound proudly offers the lowest prices on dried mealworms and free shipping to the continental US. www.mealwormsbythepound.com

FREE FENCE GUIDE & CATALOG – E lec t r ic net t ing , so lar supp l ies , woven wire, high-tensile wire, and rotational grazing supplies. 1-800-KENCOVE. www.kencove.com.

102 Backyard Poultry112 Backyard Poultry

Preserving

Seeds

Survival Gear

EMERGENCY WELL PUMPS Freeze Proof, Rust Proof, Idiot Proof

Insanely Reliable Hand Pumps Start at $100

www.ApocalypseWellPumps.Com

Mealworms

PigeonsPigeons—White Doves for Dove release. Racing Homers, Rol lers, Tipplers. Foy’s catalog. 724-843-6889. www.foyspigeonsupplies.com

Poultry

Poultry Supplies

Mealworms by the Pound—Bluebirds, Chickens, Turkeys, & Ducks all love our dried and live meal-worms. <www.mealwormsbythepound.com> or 888-400-9018.

Retail Discount Pricing. Offering day old baby chicks, ducks, goslings, turkey, guineas, and pheasants. [email protected] or 314-296-3251

Fowl Play Products, Chicken Swing, Treats, Diapers, Saddles, Dresses, chicken gifts for all! PH 877-223-8048, http://www.fowlplayproducts.com/.

Al l Amer ican Pressure Canner, t he only pressure canner that forms a metal to meta l seal e l iminat ing the need for lid gasket replacement. Offers large capacity canning to make pressure canning your m e a t s , v e g e t a b l e s a n d f r u i t s e a s y. E a s y C l e a n u p . 8 0 0 - 2 5 1 - 8 8 2 4 . www.allamericancanner.com

Retail Discount Pricing, Fund Raise!. Offering organic raised heirloom vegetable seeds. We also sell wholesale. [email protected] or 314-296-3251

Water Systems

Or Visit www.countrysidemag.com

Backyard Poultry Advertising Form Next Deadline: February 13, 2017

• Call for multiple issue discounts • Feel free to use a separate sheet of paperPlease type or print legibly and indicate the words you would like in bold or capital letters.

• Don’t forget to count your name, address, phone number and e-mail if it is part of your ad.• 10 word minimum. Ads under 10 words will be charged $30.

Mail to: Backyard Poultry Breeders/Classifieds, 145 Industrial Dr., Medford, WI 54451

or E-mail: [email protected] • www.CountrysideNetwork.com1-800-551-5691 • Fax: 1-715-785-7414

Number of words _____ x $3.00 = $_______

Words in all CAPITALS _____x 25¢ = $_______

Words in bold _____x 25¢ = $_______

X No. of issues you want your ad to run: _____ = $_______

Payment enclosed (U.S. funds): $_______

Liner Classified:Your Name:

Address:

City, State, Zip:

Classification:

E-mail:

Ad:

Classification:

Your Farm Name:

Your Name:

Address:

City, State, Zip:

Phone Number:

E-mail:

Website:

Breed(s):

Additional Words:

Liner Breeders Directory:

Directory listing (6 issues): $50.00Additional words ($1.50 each):Total Amount Enclosed (US):

Display Breeders/Classified (1" & 2" sizes):For a color ad,

add $25 per insertion1x - 2x=$110 per inch, per issue3x - 5x=$105 per inch, per issue 6x=$100 per inch, per issue

Use pictures,logo and color!

FREE Ad Design!

800-282-6631 premier1supplies.com

FREE Shipping!On qualified orders.

FREE Catalogs!Contact us at 800-282-6631

or visit our website.

FencingProducts Equipment &

Clipping

PoultrySupplies

$56

§

Stop freezing! Prevent your birds from going

without water this winter. Top-fill design enables easy refilling. Side- facing nipples reduce dripping and keep water clean. Thick insulation in the lid keeps the heat in. Provides water for up to 26 chickens.

Features:• Insulated top.

Top-fill waterers are far easier to use than the flip-over style. Cuts down on the amount of water spilled during chores.

• Simple to use. No valves, floats or hoses. Remove lid, fill with fresh water and replace top.

• Side-facing nipple. Most chickens adapt immediately to using nipples, even if previously on trough waterers. Set the waterer so the nipples are just above head height (the birds should stretch up slightly to drink).

Heated Poultry WatererProvides fresh, clean water all winter long.

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BYPFebMar17.pdf - Backyard Poultry Magazine

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