Building With Apex Block 113007

BUILDING WITH

THE

APEX BLOCK™

INTERLOCKING SYSTEM

THE BASICS

Copyright and Trademark Notice

© 2007 APEX Construction Systems, Inc. This document is developed by APEX Construction Systems,

Inc. It may not be redistributed or modified without prior consent of APEX Construction Systems, Inc.

APEX Block™ is a trademark of APEX Constructions Systems Inc.

Disclaimer

The figures and photos in this manual are for illustration purposes only and are not intended to reflect

conditions on your construction site, OSHA regulations, or requirements of local jurisdictions.

Change History

Version Date Author Description

1.0 January, 2007 L. LaManna; C. Thoen Original

1.1 August, 2007 C. Thoen Additions, corrections

APEX CONSTRUCTION SYSTEMS, INC.

Building with the APEX Block™ Interlocking System – The Basics Version 1.1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

i

1. WHY BUILD WITH APEX BLOCK™? .............................................................................. 1

1.1. Advantages over Traditional ICF .................................................................................................. 1

1.2. Advantages over Masonry Block ................................................................................................... 1

1.3. Excellent Test Values .................................................................................................................... 2

2. APEX BLOCK™ SPECIFICATIONS .................................................................................. 2

3. BEFORE YOU START ........................................................................................................... 4

3.1. Planning ......................................................................................................................................... 4

3.2. Tools and Supplies......................................................................................................................... 5

4. BUILDING WITH APEX BLOCK™: THE BASICS .......................................................... 7

4.1. Placing The First Course of Blocks ............................................................................................... 7

4.2. Constructing Corners ..................................................................................................................... 9

4.3. Placing Additional Courses of Blocks ......................................................................................... 13

4.4. Creating Openings ....................................................................................................................... 14

4.5. Rebar Placement around Openings .............................................................................................. 14

4.6. Supporting Openings ................................................................................................................... 14

4.7. Creating Reinforced Lintels and Headers .................................................................................... 17

4.8. Bracing the Walls ........................................................................................................................ 19

4.9. Creating Curved Walls ................................................................................................................ 21

4.10. Rebar Specifications .................................................................................................................... 25

4.11. Preparing the Rebar ..................................................................................................................... 25

4.12. Placing the Rebar ......................................................................................................................... 25

4.13. Stabilizing the Blocks Prior to Grouting ...................................................................................... 26

4.14. Adding Ledgers ........................................................................................................................... 27

4.14.1 Ledgers for Floors ......................................................................................................... 29

4.14.2 Installing Wood Flooring .............................................................................................. 31

4.14.3 Ledgers for Flat Roofs ................................................................................................... 31

4.15. Accounting for Plumbing ............................................................................................................ 32

4.16. Insert Vertical Rebar .................................................................................................................... 34

4.17. Preparing to Pour the Grout ......................................................................................................... 34

4.18. Pouring the Grout ........................................................................................................................ 35

4.19. Adding Wall Top Plates .............................................................................................................. 36

4.20. Wrapping Windows ..................................................................................................................... 38

4.21. Installing Electrical ...................................................................................................................... 38

4.22. Removing Bracing ....................................................................................................................... 40

4.23. Exterior Finishes .......................................................................................................................... 41

4.23.1 Stucco ............................................................................................................................ 41

4.23.2 Rock or Brick Veneer .................................................................................................... 42



TABLE OF CONTENTS

ii

4.24. Interior Finishes ........................................................................................................................... 42

4.24.1 Dry Wall ........................................................................................................................ 42

4.24.2 Plaster ............................................................................................................................ 42

5. INSTALLING INTERIOR WALLS .................................................................................... 42

5.1. Wood Frame or Metal Stud Interior Walls .................................................................................. 42

5.2. APEX Block™ Interior Walls ................................................................................................... 43

6. ATTACHING CABINETS AND OTHER INTERIOR FIXTURES ................................ 43

APPENDIX A ................................................................................................................................. 1

LIST OF FIGURES

FIGURE 1: APEX BLOCK™ TONGUE-AND-GROOVE SHAPING ........................................................................ 1

FIGURE 2: APEX BLOCK™ ISOMETRIC VIEW ................................................................................................. 3

FIGURE 3: APEX BLOCK™ PLAN VIEW .......................................................................................................... 3

FIGURE 4: APEX BLOCK™ EDGE VIEW ......................................................................................................... 3

FIGURE 5: APEX BLOCK™ SIDE VIEW .......................................................................................................... 3

FIGURE 6: REBAR PLACEMENT IN FOUNDATION ............................................................................................. 5

FIGURE 7: FOAM ADHESIVE LABEL DETAILS ................................................................................................. 7

FIGURE 8: FIRST COURSE OF BLOCKS ............................................................................................................. 8

FIGURE 9: FIRST COURSE OF BLOCKS, VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL ............................................................... 8

FIGURE 10: REBAR BENT TO MEET GROUT CHANNELS .................................................................................. 8

FIGURE 11: WALL WITH SHIMS IN PLACE ....................................................................................................... 9

FIGURE 12: BLOCKS MODIFIED FOR CORNER ................................................................................................10

FIGURE 13: CORNER BLOCKS TOGETHER .......................................................................................................10

FIGURE 14: DETAILS OF CORNER CAVITY .....................................................................................................10

FIGURE 15: HORIZONTAL REBAR BENT AT CORNER ......................................................................................11

FIGURE 16: CREATING A CORNER ..................................................................................................................11

FIGURE 17: INSTALLING METAL STAPLES .....................................................................................................12

FIGURE 18: CORNER WITH STAPLES ..............................................................................................................12

FIGURE 19: WALL WITH STAGGERED SEAMS.................................................................................................13

FIGURE 20: VERTICAL REBAR PLACEMENT AT OPENING ...............................................................................14

FIGURE 21: WINDOW OPENING UNDER CONSTRUCTION ...............................................................................15

FIGURE 22: CREATING A GROOVE IN THE END OF A BLOCK ..........................................................................15

FIGURE 23: 2X6 LUMBER EMBEDDED AT OPENING .......................................................................................16

FIGURE 24: COUNTERSINKING LAG BOLTS INTO BUCKING............................................................................16

FIGURE 25: SMOOTHING BLOCKS, BOTTOM OF OPENING ...............................................................................17

FIGURE 26: BLOCK MODIFIED FOR LINTELOVER OPENING ............................................................................17

FIGURE 27: BOXED SUPPORT OF BLOCKS OVER LINTELS...............................................................................18

FIGURE 28: ADDITIONAL REBAR OVER OPENING ..........................................................................................18

FIGURE 29: BOND BEAM DETAILS .................................................................................................................19

FIGURE 30: SUPPORTED OPENING ..................................................................................................................19

FIGURE 31: BRACING WALLS – INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR .............................................................................19

FIGURE 32: PREPARING A BRACING BOARD ...................................................................................................20

FIGURE 33: BRACING STRIP GLUED TO WALL ...............................................................................................20

FIGURE 34: CORNER BRACED PRIOR TO POUR...............................................................................................21

FIGURE 35: FOUNDATION FOR CURVED WALL ..............................................................................................21

FIGURE 36: CUTTING A BLOCK FOR A RADIUS ...............................................................................................22



TABLE OF CONTENTS

iii

FIGURE 37: BLOCKS CUT FOR CURVED WALL ...............................................................................................23

FIGURE 38: CURVED WALL, FIRST COURSE OF BLOCKS – INSIDE VIEW ........................................................23

FIGURE 39: CURVED WALL, FIRST COURSE OF BLOCKS – OUTSIDE VIEW ....................................................23

FIGURE 40: COMPLETED CURVED WALL .......................................................................................................24

FIGURE 41: INTERSECTION OF CURVED WALL TO STRAIGHT WALL ..............................................................24

FIGURE 42: DETAIL OF REBAR PLACEMENT – INTERSECTION OF CURVED AND STRAIGHT WALLS ...............25

FIGURE 43: PLACING HORIZONTAL REBAR....................................................................................................26

FIGURE 44: REINFORCEMENT OF MODIFIED BLOCKS OVER DOORWAY .........................................................27

FIGURE 45: LEDGER PREP - HOLES FOR “J”BOLTS .........................................................................................27

FIGURE 46: LEDGER PREP – “J” BOLTS WITH PLYWOOD SQUARES IN PLACE ................................................28

FIGURE 47: LEDGER PREP – “J” BOLTS WITH PLYWOOD REMOVED, AFTER GROUT POUR .............................28

FIGURE 48: WOOD LEDGER INSTALLATION ....................................................................................................29

FIGURE 49: LEDGER INSTALLED ....................................................................................................................29

FIGURE 50: JOISTS INSTALLED ON LEDGER ....................................................................................................29

FIGURE 51: EXTERIOR WALL WITH FLOOR JOIST AND LEDGER .....................................................................30

FIGURE 52: INTERIOR WALLS WITH LEDGERS AND FLOOR JOISTS .................................................................31

FIGURE 53: LEDGER FOR FLAT ROOF ............................................................................................................32

FIGURE 54: PREPARING THE BLOCKS FOR PLUMBING ....................................................................................33

FIGURE 55: PLUMBING PIPES INSTALLED IN WALL........................................................................................33

FIGURE 56: EXTERNAL PLUMBING FIXTURE IN WALL ...................................................................................34

FIGURE 57: POURING THE FIRST LIFT OF GROUT ...........................................................................................35

FIGURE 58: WALL PLUG AFTER POURING GROUT..........................................................................................36

FIGURE 59: TOP PLATE INSTALLATION ..........................................................................................................37

FIGURE 60: INSTALLED TOP PLATE ................................................................................................................37

FIGURE 61: GABLE END DETAIL ....................................................................................................................38

FIGURE 62: TRUSS CONNECTION AT WALL ...................................................................................................38

FIGURE 63: PREPARING FOR ELECTRICAL ......................................................................................................39

FIGURE 64: CUTTING GROOVES FOR ELECTRICAL WIRING ............................................................................39

FIGURE 65: WALL WITH GROOVES AND CAVITY FOR ELECTRICAL ...............................................................40

FIGURE 66: ELECTRICAL BOXES AND WIRING IN PLACE ................................................................................40

FIGURE 67: ELECTRICAL UTILITIES INSTALLED .............................................................................................40

FIGURE 68: SMOOTHING THE EXTERIOR SURFACE OF THE WALL ..................................................................41

FIGURE 69: CONNECTING APEX BLOCK™ INTERIOR WALLS .......................................................................43

FIGURE 70: INSTALLING A NAILER FOR INTERIOR FIXTURES .........................................................................44

LIST OF TABLES

TABLE 1 FOUNDATION REQUIREMENTS .......................................................................................................... 4

TABLE 2 TOOLS FOR WORKING WITH APEX BLOCK™ ................................................................................... 5

TABLE 3 STANDARD RADIUS CHART ..............................................................................................................22



1

1. WHY BUILD WITH APEX BLOCK™?

The APEX Block™ Interlocking System is a complete low-density concrete forming system, with

significant advantages over construction with other ICF systems or masonry block.

1.1. ADVANTAGES OVER TRADITIONAL ICF

� Ease of construction: The patented tongue-and-groove shaping locks each block onto the others

around it, making it easier to keep walls plumb and level.

Figure 1: APEX Block™ Tongue-and-Groove Shaping

� Easy handling: Improved size and reduced weight ease handling and assembly,

� Less gluing: The APEX Block™ Interlocking System significantly reduces the use of glue to

keep the blocks in place, saving effort, time, and materials.

� Ideal reinforced grid spacing: In APEX Block™, the reinforced, 6-inch diameter concrete grout

channels are placed at 16-inch-on-center intervals, the standard framing spacing in the U.S.

� Optimum use of concrete: Improved design of reinforcement channels eliminates overuse of

concrete while optimizing strength.

� Consistent size, shape, and weight: Advanced production techniques and strict quality control

mean that APEX blocks have a consistent size, shapes, and weight. You can count on APEX

blocks to meet specs and to fit together snugly, for easy stacking.

1.2. ADVANTAGES OVER MASONRY BLOCK

� No clean-outs needed: Most debris created during construction is polystyrene granules or dry

cement, which can mix easily with the poured concrete grout without problems, so there’s no

need to build clean-outs into your wall.

� No vibration needed: The size and placement of the cells in the blocks allow the grout to flow

freely throughout all the channels, without vibration.

� Rebar is not tied: The channels in the blocks keep the rebar in the right position, so you don’t

need to tie the rebar at all.

APEX CONSTRUCTION SYSTEMS, INC. Building with the APEX Block™ Interlocking System – The Basics Version 1.1

Level and plumb before grouting: You’ll keep the walls level and plumb as you stack the blocks, using small amounts of foam glue to help keep them stable and occasionally using shims to ensure the blocks are level and plumb.

1.3. Excellent Test Values In independent testing, APEX Block achieves excellent thermal insulation, acoustical insulation and fire resistance values.

Thermal Value Insulation: Structures built with APEX Block has proven to save owners and occupants up to 50% on their energy bills. Our initial R-Value test results on our block alone were astounding. We are currently awaiting our latest Thermal Value test results for ASTM C1363 which will provide us with an R-Value rating for a finished APEX Block wall assembly. We expect to have these results by January ’08.

Sound Insulation: Our acoustical-insulation test results of -55.5 db, per ASTM E90/C634, is an excellent rating that is praised by our customers and occupants.

Fire Resistance: Per ASTM E84 test results, APEX Block was given a 3-hour fire resistance rating. (The actual results for this test was 3 hours 53 minutes.)

Refer to Appendix A for detailed test results. 2. APEX Block Specifications APEX Blocks are made of a mixture of recycled expanded polystyrene (EPS), cement, water, and bonding agents. As shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3, our blocks have a precision tongue-and-groove design to allow for a more secure placement of the blocks. The 6 inch diameter, round grout channels are placed 16 inches on center (16 OC) and run horizontally and vertically through each block. Each block is one solid piece, the grout channels pass through the middle of the block, not at a seam, creating secure pathways for the grout.


Building with the APEX Block™ Interlocking System Version 1.1

3

Figure 2: APEX Block™ Isometric View

AWS-10

Standard APEX Block™

48" H x 16" W x 10" D , approx. 55 lbs.

Channel spacing for inner reinforced concrete grid is

set on the industry standard of 16 inch OC (vertically

and horizontally).

Red fill shown here represents channel for reinforced

concrete pour.

Figure 3: APEX Block™ Plan View

Figure 4: APEX Block™ Edge View

Figure 5: APEX Block™ Side View



4

3. BEFORE YOU START

3.1. PLANNING

It’s easy to prepare for a job using APEX Block™:

� Be sure you have your plans and all engineering specs ready

� Identify a flat location for storing the APEX Block™ after delivery. Storing the blocks on an

uneven surface can cause them to warp or break.

� When the blocks arrive, keep them clean and dry.

� Check the foundation (slab or stem wall) against the requirements in

Table 1.

Table 1

Foundation Requirements

Foundation Requirement Comment

Concrete poured at least 1 week

prior to starting walls

Construct foundations of concrete in accordance with the requirements of IBC

Chapters 18 and 19 or IRC Chapter 4.

Stem walls are wide enough Must be at least 10 inches wide.

Surface is level Mark any uneven or non-level areas prior to setting blocks

Slab is square and true Verify that the corners of the slab are 90º angles. An easy way to confirm this

is to draw out a 3-ftx4-ftx5-ft triangle on the slab.

ASTM A615 Grade 60 deformed

steel reinforcement bars are used

Vertical rebar must be minimum No. 4 and must comply with Section 1907 of

the IBC. If the construction is based on the IRC, reinforcing steel must comply

with IRC Section R611.6.2.

Rebar spaced 16 in. on center, to

match grout channels in blocks

If slightly out of position, bend to re-position per Figure 10.

Openings are specified Be sure that you know where all planned openings are in relation to the

foundation, and mark them on the slab or stem wall as needed.

Two pieces of rebar are placed on

either side of any opening, as

shown in Figure 6.

If rebar is missing, drill through the slab with a roto-hammer and epoxy a piece

of rebar in place

Rebar extends at least 24 inches

above the foundation

Foundation rebar must extend into the wall panel a minimum of 24 inches or a

distance determined in accordance with IBC Section 1901.2 (normally 22 times

the diameter of the rebar as mandated by code) whichever is greater.

If rebar is too short, drill through the slab with a roto-hammer and epoxy a



5

longer piece of rebar in place.

NOTE:

You can use APEX Block™ for a below-grade wall. In this case, be sure to install appropriate

waterproofing on the exterior below-grade surface of the blocks.

Figure 6: Rebar Placement in Foundation

3.2. TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

To build with APEX Block™, you’ll need your standard construction tool kit, including drills, hammers,

tape measures, gloves, and so on. Table 2 lists the tools you’ll need specifically for working with APEX

Block™.

Table 2

Tools for Working with APEX Block™

Item Use Description

� Levels/Plumb

bob

Ensure that foundation,

walls, and openings are

level

4-, 6-, 10-, 20-foot (depends on height of wall,

may need to use plumb bob)

� Sawzall or

electric chain

saw

Cut blocks to correct

length for corners or

openings.

10- to12-in. Sawzall blade or 16-inch-chain bar

Do not use a gasoline chain saw. The EPS in

the blocks can plug the air filter or the oil in the

bar system.

� Skilsaw Make precise cuts in

APEX Block™. Cut

lumber for framing and

bracing.



6

Item Use Description

� Hole saw Cut round holes in blocks 4-in. and 6-in. round hole-saw blades

� Hand saw Cut or shape blocks by

hand

Stiff saw blade, 36 inches long with 3-4 teeth

per inch

� Keyhole saw Make rough cuts in APEX

Block™. Scribe areas

where small openings are

needed, such as holes for

electrical boxes

� Claw hammer Gouge out scribed areas

� Rebar cutter Cut rebar to length Metal wheel on Skilsaw, hack saw, or rebar

cutter

� Rasp Smooth the surface of

blocks

Custom made; weld a 6x8-in piece of open

diamond-grid grating to a frame and handle.

� Staples Tie blocks together at

corners

Custom made; 1/8-in.-thick steel, 1-in.wide;

right-angle bends on each end, points on tips,

as shown in Figure 17.

� Glue gun, glue

canisters, and

gun cleaner

canisters.

See NOTE

below.

Tack blocks to the

foundation and repair

small breaks in the blocks.

Glue gun, low-expansion, high-yield foam

adhesive, and cleaner of the same general type

as shown here.

� Concrete

scraper

Scrape off excess grout,

flatten top surfaces of

wall, clean up slab, scrape

off glue

14-in. blade

� Lumber Bucking and bracing 2x4s, 2x6s, 2x10s



7

IMPORTANT:

Use only foam adhesive that has been designed for use with Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF).

Figure 7 shows close-ups of the labeling on a canister of the correct type of foam adhesive.

Figure 7: Foam Adhesive Label Details

4. BUILDING WITH APEX BLOCK™: THE BASICS

Building with APEX Block™ is easy. You’ll dry-stack all the blocks for the walls before pouring any

grout. Blocks can be stacked horizontally or vertically; the grout channels will still align.

To allow for the correct placement of plumbing, you’ll cut grooves or openings in the APEX Block™ as

you place the first course of blocks. Electrical can come in at roof level

You’ll place horizontal rebar as you lay courses of APEX Block™. You’ll wait to place the vertical rebar

until all the blocks are in place. You’ll brace the walls and openings as you go. Then you’ll pour the

grout in lifts, allow it to cure, remove the bracing and clean up.

4.1. PLACING THE FIRST COURSE OF BLOCKS

IMPORTANT:

How you construct the first course of blocks on the foundation is the most important part of building with

APEX Block™. The first course must be square, straight, and plumb.

To place the first course of blocks, follow these steps:

1. Starting at one corner of the foundation, place the first block so that the grout channels in the

block fit over the rebar in the foundation. The foundation may be slab-on-grade or a mono-pour

stem wall, as shown in Figure 8.



8

Figure 8: First Course of Blocks

As shown in Figure 9, you can place the blocks horizontally, vertically, or in combination,

keeping the vertical grout channels aligned with the rebar.

Figure 9: First course of blocks, vertical and horizontal

2. If necessary, bend the rebar to align with the grout channels, as shown in Figure 10.

Figure 10: Rebar Bent to Meet Grout Channels



9

3. Place the next block beside the first, ensuring that the rebar fits into the grout channels and that

the tongue-and-grove shaping on the two blocks is snug.

4. Continue placing blocks along the wall, ensuring that the blocks are square, straight, and plumb.

5. Use wood shims to level or plumb APEX Blocks™, as shown in Figure 11.

Figure 11: Wall with Shims in Place

a. Gently tip up the block and place the shim.

b. Do not drive the shim into the joint; this will only crush the block as opposed to raising

it.

c. Leave the shims in place until 48 hrs after you have poured the grout.

d. Cut off or pull out the shims.

6. Account for any doors or windows as you place the blocks.

a. Build around openings by cutting or shaping the APEX Blocks™ to the right length.

b. Fill any gaps between blocks with low-expansion high-strength foam adhesive, so the

block can’t tip or move.

c. Allow the glue to dry for 30 minutes before stacking another course of blocks on top.

NOTE:

If necessary, you can cut openings out of the APEX Block™ wall after you’ve built the wall (but before

you’ve placed the rebar or poured the grout). This might be necessary, for example, if a window has been

missed during layout or has been moved after the plans were completed. However, try to avoid cutting

parts of a wall away after construction, as this wastes time, materials, and money.

4.2. CONSTRUCTING CORNERS

Construct corners as you work your way around the perimeter of the building, following these steps:

1. Modify the ends of two blocks to make a larger, solid grout channel at the corner as shown in

Figure 12 and Figure 13; this makes a strong corner that is less likely to blow out when you pour

the grout.



10

Figure 12: Blocks Modified for Corner Figure 13: Corner Blocks Together

Figure 14 illustrates the details of corner construction

Figure 14: Details of Corner Cavity

2. Bend a piece of rebar at least 48-inches long at a right angle at the mid-point and place one end in

the horizontal grout channel of the first block.

3. As you place the next block (around the corner) slide the bent rebar into the horizontal grout

channel in that block.

Figure 15 and Figure 16 show the resulting corner.



11

Figure 15: Horizontal Rebar Bent at Corner

NOTE:

The string shown in this figure is a line

level to ensure that the wall is straight.

Figure 16: Creating a Corner

You can also construct a corner by mitering the corner and hollowing out a cavity between the

two blocks. If you choose this method, you must be sure that there is a grout cell in the corner,

where the diagonal cut of the two blocks meet. However, APEX recommends that you use the

method described in Section 4.2, as this creates a much stronger corner.

NOTE:

If you forget to place rebar in a corner as you lay the blocks, you can use your Sawzall to cut a groove

into the APEX Blocks™, reaching into the grout channel, to place the rebar after the corner is

constructed.

4. Secure the corner blocks with staples on the outside of the corner. Figure 17 illustrates the

placement of staples at corners, and Figure 18 illustrates the resulting corner.



12

Figure 17: Installing Metal Staples

Figure 18: Corner with Staples

5. Before pouring the grout, brace the corner as described in Section 4.8, “Bracing the Walls.”

NOTE:

Be sure to place horizontal rebar as you work along the wall, and before you build the next corner.

Otherwise, the next corner will cap off that length of the wall, and you’ll have no easy way to insert the

rebar.



13

4.3. PLACING ADDITIONAL COURSES OF BLOCKS

After you’ve completed one course of blocks completely around the perimeter of the building, you can

place the second and following courses. Follow these guidelines:

� You can stack the blocks with the seams between blocks lined up or staggered; the tongue-

and groove shaping will ensure a good fit between the blocks. Figure 19 shows a wall with

the seams staggered.

Figure 19: Wall with Staggered Seams

� Whether you align the seams or not, KEEP THE GROUT CHANNELS LINED UP. Use your

Sawzall to cut the blocks to the correct length as needed.

� Maintain a consistent tongue-and-groove pattern throughout the wall, with the groove end of

each new block installed at the tongue end of the previous block.

� Maintain a smooth, level surface on the inside of the wall. Although APEX blocks are very

consistent in size, they may not always be perfect. Place the blocks so that any variance in

width appears on the outside of the wall. You can use your rasp to smooth the outside surface

of the blocks before applying an exterior finish.

� After you shim and level your blocks, apply small amounts of foam adhesive between the

blocks to tack them in place. This will help keep them square, straight and plumb, and will

keep them from shifting before or during the grout pour.

NOTE:

If you forget to place straight horizontal rebar into any course of a wall until after the wall is completed,

you can cut a small hole in one end block and thread the rebar into the horizontal grout channel.



14

4.4. CREATING OPENINGS

Create openings by cutting blocks to length as you place them. Follow these guidelines:

� Add 3 inches to the rough opening (RO) for doors or windows, to allow for bucking and

wrapping of the opening. For example, for a 4-ft. x 6-ft. rough opening, create an opening

measuring 4 ft. 3 in. x 6 ft. 3 in.

� Use staples to secure blocks around openings.

� Use 2x10 lumber to brace any openings more than 6 feet long, such as the garage door. See

Figure 30.

� Create bond beams over all openings. Refer to Section 0, below.

� Install double rebar on either side of all openings.

NOTE:

If you forget to create an opening as you place the blocks, you can use your Sawzall to cut out the

opening after you’ve built the wall (but before you pour the grout).

4.5. REBAR PLACEMENT AROUND OPENINGS

You’ll need to place vertical rebar in a full grout channel on either side of any opening, even if there isn’t

a grout channel immediately adjacent to the opening, as shown in Figure 20.

Figure 20: Vertical Rebar Placement at Opening

4.6. SUPPORTING OPENINGS

As you create window and door openings, you’ll need to buck them out on the top and sides with

pressure-treated 2x6-in. lumber, as shown in Figure 21.



15

Figure 21: Window Opening Under Construction

NOTE:

You may need to shorten some of the blocks to make them the correct length around the opening. If you

do, be sure to keep the grout channels aligned.

For windows, follow these steps:

1. Stack the blocks to account for the window, ensuring that the grout channels are aligned on

each side of the opening, and over the opening (as though the opening were not there).

2. As shown in Figure 22, make a groove on the ends of the blocks on the inside of the opening,

at the sides and on the top (not along the bottom of the opening).

Figure 22: Creating a Groove in the End of a Block

3. Inset 2x6 lumber in the grooves on each side of the opening, as shown in Figure 23.



16

Figure 23: 2x6 Lumber Embedded at Opening

4. “Lead in” the bucking on the sides of the opening, using 6-inch hardened-steel lag bolts.

a. Drill a pilot hole for each lag bolt

b. Drill a countersink hole, so the lag bolts can be inserted flush with the bucking.

c. Insert the lag bolts.

Figure 24: Countersinking Lag Bolts into Bucking

5. As shown in Figure 25, use your rasp to smooth any rough spots after cutting the tongue off

the blocks at the bottom of the opening. This will provide a flat surface for your window

framing.



17

Figure 25: Smoothing Blocks, Bottom of Opening

4.7. CREATING REINFORCED LINTELS AND HEADERS

For doors and large openings, you’ll create a reinforced lintel or header over the opening, per engineering

specs. Follow these general steps:

1. “Hog out” the bottom part of the APEX Blocks™ needed to span the opening. The amount of

material that you remove will depend on the thickness of reinforced concrete required over the

span.

Figure 26 shows a block with the APEX material removed from the block below the horizontal

grout channel.

Figure 26: Block Modified for Lintelover Opening

2. To reinforce the bottom of the blocks forming the lintel over an opening, build a boxed support as

shown in Figure 27. This will provide support for the blocks when the grout is poured, and

provide a solid bottom for the grout channel.



18

Figure 27: Boxed Support of Blocks over Lintels

NOTE:

If necessary, you can remove ALL of the APEX material from the center of the blocks

when creating a bond beam, leaving only the two side walls. Make sure that you brace

these portions of the wall using one or more of the methods described in Section 4.8.

3. Place additional rebar in the grout channel for the header, as required by engineering specs.

Figure 28 shows rebar placement in a lintel over a door.

Figure 28: Additional Rebar Over Opening

The photos in Figure 28 show a “skeleton” view of the extra rebar needed in all lintels as it would

be placed through blocks over an opening. One block is missing here, so you can see how you

would overlap the rebar and how you would place multiple pieces of rebar to reinforce the span.

If the height of the opening causes the lintel to fall in the middle of the block, create the opening

for the additional concrete and rebar in the upper half of the block, as shown in Figure 29.



19

Figure 29: Lintel Details

4. Create adequate support for the opening prior to grouting, using vertical and horizontal bracing as

needed, as shown in Figure 30.

Figure 30: Supported Opening

Create a reinforced lintel over any span greater than 8 feet long. Refer to Section 4.13 for

instructions on reinforcing blocks that you have modified for long spans.

4.8. BRACING THE WALLS

Use bracing as needed on the inside and outside of the walls to keep them plumb and level before (and

during) the grout pour. Figure 31 shows various walls with bracing in place.

Figure 31: Bracing Walls – Interior and Exterior



20

To brace parts of the wall that have no existing exposed lumber, you can glue a strip of lumber to the wall

to seat a bracing board. Follow these steps:

1. Hammer three nails through a short piece of 2x4 lumber at the bottom, middle, and top, so that

the nails extend through the board.

2. Apply adhesive foam to the board, as shown in Figure 32.

Figure 32: Preparing a Bracing Board

3. Press that lumber directly to the surface of the blocks.

4. Place your brace against that wood strip.

Figure 33: Bracing Strip Glued to Wall

Figure 34 shows a corner fully braced prior to pouring the grout.



21

Figure 34: Corner Braced Prior to Pour

4.9. CREATING CURVED WALLS

You’ll create curved walls by cutting angles from the inside edges of APEX Blocks™ using the standard

radius chart in Table 3. Figure 35 shows the foundation for a curved wall.

Figure 35: Foundation for Curved Wall

Follow these steps to create a curved wall:

1. Set the blocks on the vertical.

2. Cut angles from the tongue edges of blocks, per the standard radius chart in Table 3. You’ll

lose most, if not all, of the tongue-and-groove shaping on the inside edges of the block.



22

Table 3

Standard Radius Chart

RADIUS "R" 10-INCH THICK WALL

NOTE: For other radii, calculate X=

0.625 x thickness (inches) / “R” (feet)

3'-0" 2.13

4'-0" 1.68

5'-0" 1.36

6'-0" 1.06

7'-0" 0.95

8'-0" 0.80

9'-0" 0.75

10'-0" 0.62

Figure 36 shows a builder cutting the blocks for a curved wall.

Figure 36: Cutting a Block for a Radius

Figure 37 shows block cut and ready for use in a curved wall.



23

Figure 37: Blocks Cut for Curved Wall

NOTE:

Use your rasp to smooth the outside surface of the curved wall, where the blocks meet.

Figure 38 shows the first course of blocks in a curved wall, from inside the structure.

Figure 38: Curved Wall, First Course of Blocks – Inside View

Figure 39 shows the same wall from the outside, with a straight wall extending to the right side of the

curved wall.

Figure 39: Curved Wall, First Course of Blocks – Outside View



24

Figure 40 shows a completed curved wall, with two rows of blocks, prior to grouting.

Figure 40: Completed Curved Wall

3. As with any corner, bend the rebar to match the curve and thread it into the grout channel as you

add blocks to the wall.

Figure 41 shows the intersection of a curved wall and a straight wall.

Figure 41: Intersection of Curved Wall to Straight Wall

Figure 42 shows a detail of rebar placement at the intersection of a straight wall to a curved wall.



25

Figure 42: Detail of Rebar Placement – Intersection of Curved and Straight Walls

4.10. REBAR SPECIFICATIONS

The engineering specs will dictate the size and exact placement of the rebar; however, these are minimum

specifications:

� Use ASTM A615 Grade 60 deformed steel rebar complying with Section 1907 of the IBC. If

the construction is based on the IRC, rebar must comply with IRC Section R611.6.2

� Minimum vertical and horizontal reinforcement must be No. 4 rebar spaced a maximum of 32

inches (810 mm) on center.

4.11. PREPARING THE REBAR

Determine the number and lengths of rebar pieces needed, based on the engineering specifications. Then,

count and cut the needed rebar, keeping in mind these considerations:

� Ensure that vertical rebar is 1 to 2 inches shorter than the very top of the wall, so that none

extends beyond the top of the blocks.

� Review rebar placement under windows or in door openings. Check the plans and take care

that the rebar will not interfere with these openings.

� Ensure that there is a 2-foot overlap for any splice. Lap splices for reinforcement must

comply with IBC Section 1901.2 or IRC Section R611.7.1.

4.12. PLACING THE REBAR

The engineering specs will dictate the size and exact placement of the rebar. However, you can follow

these general guidelines:

� Typically, you’ll place rebar in every other cell horizontally, and in every cell vertically for

increased strength in the columns.

� You can lay the horizontal rebar directly on the bottom of the cells, unless otherwise required

by the structural engineer.

� You can drop vertical reinforcement into the cells from the top of the wall.

� When required by the design, you’ll need to provide additional reinforcement at headers,

bond beams, and lintels.



26

� There’s usually no need to tie the rebar – the vertical rebar can fall as it does; the horizontal

rebar can rest on the bottom of the horizontal cells. However, if required by code or

engineering specs, you can easily tie the rebar so that it remains in the center of each grout

channel: lay another piece of rebar along the top of the row of blocks prior to pouring the

grout, and use wire to tie the vertical rebar to the rebar along the top.

� Ensure that vertical rebar is 2 inches shorter than the very top of the wall (so that none

extends beyond blocks at the top).

� Ensure that there is a 2-foot overlap for any splice. Lap splices for reinforcement must

comply with IBC Section 1923 or IRC Section R611.7.1.

NOTE:

Remember that if you are placing rebar and you have not reached final wall height, then the rebar must

extend a minimum of 24 inches above the current course of blocks.

Figure 43 shows a builder placing horizontal rebar in a section of a wall.

Figure 43: Placing Horizontal Rebar

4.13. STABILIZING THE BLOCKS PRIOR TO GROUTING

Before you can pour the grout, you need to be sure that any blocks that have been weakened by hollowing

or significant reduction of APEX material are stabilized to withstand the force of the grout during the

pour.

For blocks that have been significantly modified, follow these steps:

1. Cut two pieces of OSB (plywood) 3/8”thick or greater to cover the weakened area.

2. Place one of the OSB boards on each side of the APEX block, and tack in place with a nail on

the corners.

3. Drill holes through both of the OSB boards, spaced no more than 24 inches apart.

4. Bend a length of baling wire in half to double it. This also allows for a loop on the far side of

the wall to hold a small piece of rebar.

5. Run the doubled wire through one hole, through the block, and through the second hole on

the back side of the wall.



27

6. Use this wire to secure a small piece of rebar on each side of the reinforcement, by twisting

the wire to hold the rebar in place, as shown in Figure 44.

Figure 44: Reinforcement of Modified Blocks over Doorway

4.14. ADDING LEDGERS

Add ledgers for floors and flat roofs at the appropriate height on the wall before you place rebar or pour

grout. Follow these steps to install a ledger:

1. Using your hole saw, cut round 6-in. holes into the APEX Block™ at intervals per engineering

specs, for the length of the ledger, as shown in Figure 45 . Be sure that the holes extend into the

grout channel.

Figure 45: Ledger Prep - Holes for “J”bolts

2. Place “J” bolts (sized per engineering specs) in the holes, extending into the grout channel.

3. Cut multiple 6x6-in squares of plywood.

4. Drill holes (matching the size of the “J” bolts) in the center of each square of plywood.

5. Use nails to tack the squares of plywood onto the wall, with the bolt protruding through the center

hole.

6. Use foam adhesive around all four sides to keep the squares of plywood in place during the pour.



28

7. Place a nut on the bolt to keep it level and ensure that it won’t fall into the grout channel during

the pour.

These secured squares of plywood will seal the hole so that grout does not escape during the pour.

Figure 46 shows the “J” bolts for the ledger, prior to the pour.

Figure 46: Ledger Prep – “J” Bolts with Plywood Squares in Place

8. About 30 minutes after the pour, check the position of the “J” bolts to be sure they are straight

and at the correct depth. Reposition, if needed, before the grout sets completely.

You can remove the plywood after the grout has set up, as shown in Figure 47.

Figure 47: Ledger Prep – “J” Bolts with Plywood Removed, after Grout Pour

9. Drill holes through lengths of lumber, matching the size and locations of the “J” bolts.

10. Install the lumber on the “J” bolts and secure with washers and nuts. Figure 48 illustrates ledger

installation.



29

Figure 48: Wood Ledger Installation

11. Attach hangers for floor joists or trusses, as shown in Figure 49.

Figure 49: Ledger Installed

12. Install the joists or trusses in the hangers, as shown in Figure 50.

Figure 50: Joists Installed on Ledger

4.14.1 LEDGERS FOR FLOORS



30

Add ledgers for floors as you place the first course of APEX Blocks™. Figure 51 illustrates an exterior

wall with a ledger and floor joist.

Figure 51: Exterior Wall with Floor Joist and Ledger



31

Figure 52 illustrates an interior wall with ledgers and floor joists.

Figure 52: Interior Walls with Ledgers and Floor Joists

4.14.2 INSTALLING WOOD FLOORING

When ledgers are in place and secured, hang floor joists using the appropriate hanging hardware, per

engineering specifications. Then install the flooring on the floor joists using normal construction

methods.

4.14.3 LEDGERS FOR FLAT ROOFS

Add ledgers for flat roofs at specified height, per engineering specs. Figure 53 illustrates a ledger for a

flat roof.



32

Figure 53: Ledger for Flat Roof

4.15. ACCOUNTING FOR PLUMBING

For commercial applications where you have many utilities, potentially passing through multiple floors of

the construction, it makes sense to “fir out” the inside of the wall with steel studs. Then, you’ll manage

the utilities as you ordinarily would in a framed construction.

However, for most residential applications, you can embed the plumbing in the APEX Block™ wall.

Since plumbing stubs are usually in the foundation, most often you’ll account for the plumbing as you lay

the first course of blocks.

Follow these steps to install plumbing on the inside of the APEX Block™ wall:

1. Groove or gouge out the material in the APEX Blocks™ to account for the pipes where they

come out of the slab.

2. Then route out the path that the remaining plumbing will follow, as shown in Figure 54.



33

Figure 54: Preparing the Blocks for Plumbing

3. Install the copper or plastic piping, as shown in Figure 55.

Figure 55: Plumbing Pipes Installed in Wall

4. Depending on the location of the pipe stubs, you may need to drill through the block to place

external plumbing fixtures.

5. Use a wooden or pre-cast concrete block embedded in the wall to stabilize the pipe and reduce the

risk of water penetration at the opening, as shown in Figure 56.



34

Figure 56: External Plumbing Fixture in Wall

4.16. INSERT VERTICAL REBAR

Before you prepare to pour the grout, insert any remaining vertical rebar. As noted earlier, the rebar

should be 2 inches shorter than the finished height of the wall. Any splices must overlap by 24 inches.

4.17. PREPARING TO POUR THE GROUT

Prior to pouring the grout, take these steps:

1. Verify that all rebar is in place, per engineering specifications. As noted earlier, all vertical rebar

should be 1 to 2 inches shorter than the finished height of the wall, and any splices must overlap

by 24 inches.

2. Schedule any building inspections.

3. Verify that all walls are straight and plumb.

4. Be sure that any long, straight runs are adequately braced to maintain the stability of the wall

during grouting. Add extra staples or spot glue with foam adhesive if needed.

5. Smooth the top surface of the blocks. Use your Sawzall to cut the “tongue” off the top course of

blocks. Then use your rasp to smooth any rough spots along the top edge. This will enable you

to place top plates along the top surface of the wall.

6. Order the grout. Now’s the time to line up your concrete truck and grout pump.

GROUT SPECIFICATION

3/8” minus pea gravel, 2500 psi, 8-in. slump

7. If the wall is constructed on an existing slab, place polyfilm under cardboard or kraft paper next

to the wall to ease cleanup after the pour.

8. A few hours before the pour (or the evening before), wet down the inside of the grout channels;

this can help ensure that the grout channels fill completely. This step will also cool the wall in

hot weather and add humidity, which can improve the curing of the concrete. Any water that



35

puddles at the bottom of the wall will be displaced by the grout flowing through the wall

channels.

4.18. POURING THE GROUT

You can pour the grout in single-story lifts. However, APEX suggests that you pour the grout in two lifts

per story.

IMPORTANT:

Before you start filling the wall grout channels, fill all window sills (bottoms of openings). This

is important, since the area under the windows is not easily reached by the grout being poured

from above the window.

Toe in a 2x10 piece of lumber to keep this grout from coming up through the cells when you pour the rest

of the grout.

Follow these steps to fill all the channels in the blocks completely with grout:

1. Use your 4-in. hole saw to cut holes in the blocks about half-way up the wall.

2. Starting at one corner of the building, fill the grout cells through the holes, as shown in Figure

57. Fill to this half-way point for the length of the wall.

Figure 57: Pouring the First Lift of Grout

NOTE:

In Figure 57, the builder has tacked the pieces of APEX material cut out of the wall to the wall next

to the holes. He’ll use these pieces of material to plug the holes after pouring the lift of grout.

3. After pouring the first lift, plug the holes in the walls. Do this by replacing the round pieces

of APEX material cut out of the wall, tacking them in place with foam adhesive, and securing

them with a metal staple, as shown in Figure 58.



36

Figure 58: Wall Plug after Pouring Grout

4. Go back to your starting point and finish filling the cells from openings in the top of the

blocks.

5. Scrape off the excess grout along the top of the wall using a 2x4 piece of lumber, or a trowel,

making sure that the excess falls to the outside of the structure as much as possible, to reduce

cleanup later.

6. When you’ve finished pouring the grout, clean any grout off the slab before it sets up.

7. After about 30 minutes, place “J” bolts for roof trusses, per engineering specs.

8. The grout will set up in 48 hours and reach full strength in about 28 days.

IMPORTANT:

Verify that concrete has completely filled all of the block cores. Push a 0.25-in.-diameter, smooth steel

rod (or your key-hole saw) through the APEX Block™ material into the grout channels. Wet concrete on

the rod when you pull it out will confirm that the grout channel has been filled completely.

4.19. ADDING WALL TOP PLATES

To seal the open grout channels at the top of the wall, and to provide a secure attachment for nailers on

the interior of the wall, you’ll add top plates of 2x10 pressure-treated lumber after you place the rebar and

pour the grout. Figure 59 illustrates installation of a top plate.



37

Figure 59: Top Plate Installation

Follow these steps to install a top plate:

1. About 30 minutes after you’ve poured the grout, place “J” bolts into the wet grout at regular

intervals per engineering specs, with the threaded end extending at least 3 inches above the top

edge of the wall.

2. After the grout has set, drill holes in 2x10 pieces of pressure-treated lumber to coincide with the

locations of the “J” bolts.

3. Install the lumber top plate over the “J” bolts and secure with nuts, as shown in Figure 60.

Figure 60: Installed Top Plate



38

Figure 61 and Figure 62 show details of connecting roof trusses to top plates on walls of APEX Block™.

4.20. WRAPPING WINDOWS

After you’ve poured the grout, wrap the inside of all windows on all four sides with 2x10 lumber placed

flush to the inside of the wall. This wrapping will provide a nailer for your window frame, as well as for

your drywall.

4.21. INSTALLING ELECTRICAL

Because electrical wiring comes through the wall at roof level, you’ll account for these utilities after

you’ve poured the grout.

For commercial applications where you have many utilities, potentially passing through multiple floors of

the construction, it makes sense to “fir out” the inside of the wall with steel studs. Then, you’ll manage

the utilities as you ordinarily would in a framed construction.

To install electrical, wiring, conduit or electrical boxes, use your Sawzall or electric chain saw to cut

grooves or square cavities in the APEX Block™ at the desired locations. (For small applications, you

Figure 61: Gable End Detail

Figure 62: Truss Connection at Wall



39

can use your key hole saw.) Figure 63 illustrates routing or cutting cavities for electrical conduit and

boxes.

Figure 63: Preparing for Electrical

Figure 64 shows a builder preparing a wall for installation of wiring and junction boxes.

Figure 64: Cutting Grooves for Electrical Wiring

Be sure to place your junction boxes in parts of the APEX Block™ that are solid foam. Junction boxes

are more than 2 inches deep, and the APEX Block™ material over a grout channel is just 2 inches deep.

So, if you try to place a “J” box over a grout channel, the grout will keep the box from setting flush with

the surface of the wall.

Some permitting offices may require conduit for electrical wiring. In this case, simply cut the grooves

wide enough to accept the conduit.

Figure 65 shows a wall with grooves and a cavity cut for electrical wiring and a double-gang junction

box.



40

Figure 65: Wall with Grooves and Cavity for Electrical

Figure 66 shows several views of electrical boxes and wiring in place.

Figure 66: Electrical Boxes and Wiring in Place

Figure 67 is a larger view of the same wall with the boxes and wiring in place.

Figure 67: Electrical Utilities Installed

4.22. REMOVING BRACING

You can remove most bracing for walls and small openings one day after you have poured the grout.

Remember that the grout will set up in 48 hours, and will reach its maximum strength in 28 days.



41

For any span 6 feet long or longer, (large windows, garage doors) keep bracing up for a minimum of 4

days.

4.23. EXTERIOR FINISHES

You can always choose to leave the exterior surface of above-grade APEX Block™ unfinished. If you

are using an exterior finish, you must install it according to the requirements of the IBC or a current

evaluation report.

You must protect any exterior wall surfaces below grade using water-proofing solvent, applied in

accordance with IBC Section 1806 or IRC Section R406.

1. Wearing a dust mask and safety goggles, use your rasp to smooth any uneven surfaces on the

exterior walls.

Figure 68: Smoothing the Exterior Surface of the Wall

2. Apply a waterproofing sealant. You must install water-proofing materials in accordance with the

manufacturer’s instructions and per local building codes.

4.23.1 STUCCO

Stucco is a good exterior finish for APEX Block™ construction, because it is much easier to apply to

APEX Block™ than to a wood-framed structure. You’ll apply the stucco directly to the wall, without any

chicken wire, lathing, or other special construction. Your time and costs will be reduced significantly,

because there is much less labor and material involved.

Follow these general steps to apply a stucco exterior finish, ensuring that you comply with the product

manufacturer’s instructions:

1. Wearing a dust mask and safety glasses, use your rasp to smooth any uneven surfaces on the

exterior walls.

2. Apply a waterproofing sealant.

3. Apply a smooth base coat of stucco and allow it to dry.

4. Apply the finish coat of stucco, texturing as desired.



42

4.23.2 ROCK OR BRICK VENEER

Rock or brick veneer is also easy to install with APEX Block™ construction, using the same general

methods that you would use for masonry construction:

1. Be sure that the surface of the wall is smooth, clean, and dry.

2. Apply a scratch coat of mortar ½ to ¾ inch thick.

3. Use a small piece of lath to lightly rake horizontal grooves into the scratch coat.

4. Allow the scratch coat to cure for a minimum of 24 hours.

5. Continue by applying mortar and attaching the stones or bricks, using normal methods.

4.24. INTERIOR FINISHES

Because APEX Block™ acts as an interior thermal barrier, you may leave the constructed wall without an

interior finish. However, you can also using interior finishes such as gypsum drywall or plaster.

4.24.1 DRY WALL

To attach drywall to the APEX block, follow these steps:

1. Spread drywall mud or ICF foam on the back side of a sheet of drywall.

2. Press the sheet of drywall onto the interior of the APEX wall.

3. Tack the drywall sheet to the APEX blocks with a couple of nails.

4. When all drywall sheets are in place, remove the nails, then tape and paint the drywall as usual

4.24.2 PLASTER

Apply plaster directly to the surface of the blocks, in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation

instructions.

5. INSTALLING INTERIOR WALLS

You can easily join interior walls to the exterior APEX Block™ walls, whether the interior walls are

made of APEX Blocks™ or are of wood or metal stud frame construction.

APEX recommends that you install the interior walls and attach them to the exterior walls or to other

interior walls before pouring the grout. However, it is possible to add interior walls built of APEX

Block™ after you’ve poured the grout.

5.1. WOOD FRAME OR METAL STUD INTERIOR WALLS

To attach wood frame interior or metal stud frame walls to exterior APEX Block™ walls, follow these

steps:

1. Use ½-inch or larger threaded “J” bolts.

2. Insert the bolts into the open block cores. Leave enough room on the end of the bolt extending out

of the APEX Block™ exterior wall to go into a hole drilled in the interior wall’s end stud,

including a washer and nut.

3. Bolt the interior wall’s end stud to the inside of the exterior wall.



43

5.2. APEX BLOCK™ INTERIOR WALLS

To attach APEX Block™ interior walls, follow these steps:

1. Mark on the inside of the exterior wall exactly where the new interior APEX Block™ wall

will join to the exterior wall.

2. Using a Sawzall or electric chain saw, cut along the marked lines on the inside of exterior

wall. Cut deeply enough to reach the vertical or horizontal grout channels in the blocks.

3. Be sure that the hollow grout channels inside the exterior wall line up with those in the

interior wall, so the concrete will flow easily into both walls during the grout pour, making a

solid, reinforced connection. Figure 69 shows how to connect interior walls made of APEX

Block™.

Figure 69: Connecting APEX Block™ Interior Walls

6. ATTACHING CABINETS AND OTHER INTERIOR FIXTURES

This section describes one way of preparing for cabinets and other interior fixtures, if you know the

location of interior fixtures prior to wall construction.

If possible, plan for the placement of cabinets and other interior fixtures before you pour the grout. As

you construct the wall, you can “lead in” a 2x4 nailer, following these steps:

1. Route out a groove 1.5 inches deep in the block, for the length of the nailer you’ll need.

2. Cut a piece of lumber for the nailer.

3. Drill a pilot hole in the lumber for each lag bolt you plan to install, ensuring that the position of

the bolts will intersect with grout channels in the wall.

4. Drill a countersink hole, so the lag bolts can be inserted flush with the lumber.

5. Apply foam adhesive to the back of the lumber and the portions of the wall that are solid APEX

material, ensuring that the glue does not expand into the grout channels.

6. Inset the lumber in the prepared groove.

7. Install 6-inch hardened-steel lag bolts in the holes and tighten.



44

8. Secure with metal staples.

Figure 70: Installing a Nailer for Interior Fixtures



A-1

APPENDIX A

APEX Block™

Physical and Structural Characteristics Physical Characteristics of Blocks

Rating or Result Tests or Analysis

Material density 15-20 pcf; average 17.5 pcf On-going testing of coupon samples

cut from products in finished goods

average at 28 days.

Material tensile bending

strength

28 psi On-going testing of coupon samples

cut from products in finished goods;

average at 28 days.

Material compressive strength 40.1 psi Average value for test samples cut

from blocks in conjunction with Wall

Compressive Strength tests, described

below.

Fire resistance

ASTM E84-05

Comparable to UBC 8-1, 1997

UL 723

ANSI/NFPA 255

Flame spread: 0

NFPA Class: A

UBC Class: 1

10’ X 12’ load-bearing wall, vertical

exposure furnace, 3-hr test

Smoke development Smoke developed: 50

Sound transmission

ASTM E90

ASTM E1289

ASTMC634

Coefficient dimensionless:

2.82-106 Loss dB: 55.5

Mean from six test runs in three test

sets

Thermal resistance Finished wall results pendingASTM C1363

ASTM C518

Recycled content Approx. 90% by volume Recycled expanded polystyrene foam

bead, measured at time of block

manufacture

Structural Characteristics of Walls

Rating or Result Tests or Analysis

Shear capacity, 10.7-ft.-wide

walls

60.6 kips, with maximum

variation of 5.2 kips

Walls were loaded laterally at the top

corner while a specified eccentric axial

compression load was applied

simultaneously at the top to failure.

Shear capacity, 4-ft.-wide walls 16.6 kips, with maximum

variation of 5.2 kips

As above



Index-1

INDEX

A

APEX, 1

APEX Block™

test results, 1

APEX Block™

dimensions, 3

edge view, 3

flame-spread rating, 2

grout channels in, 2

quality control, 1

R-value, 2

specifications, 2

test results, 2

tongue-and-groove shaping, 1, 2

APEX Block™ Interlocking System

advantages of, 1

B

Bond beams, 17

Bracing walls

before pouring the grout, 19

removing the bracing, 40

C

Corners

constructing, 9

Curved walls, 21

rebar in, 23

Cutting blocks for curved walls, 22

D

Dry wall as interior finish, 42

E

Electrical utilities

installing, 38

Exterior finishes, 41

stucco, 41

F

First course of blocks, 7

Flame-spread rating, 2

Flat roofs

ledgers for, 31

Floors

ledgers for, 29

G

Grout

completely filling grout channels, 36

first lift, 35

pouring, 35

preparing to pour, 34

second lift, 36

specifications, 34

Grouting

preparation, 26

H

Headers, reinforced, 17

I

Installing

electrical, 38

exterior finishes, 41

interior fixtures, 43

ledgers, 27

ledgers for flat roofs, 31

ledgers for floor, 29

plumbing, 32

top plates, 36

wood flooring, 31

Interior finishes, 42

dry wall, 42

plaster, 42

Interior fixtures, 43

Interior walls

installing, 42

metal stud, 42

of APEX Block™, 43

wood frame, 42

L

Ledgers

for flat roofs, 31

for floors, 29

installing, 27

O

Openings

bond beams over, 14

creating, 14

supporting, 14



Index-2

P

Planning your project, 4

Plaster as interior finish, 42

Plumbing

installing, 32

Pouring the grout, 35

Preparing to pour grout, 34

R

Rebar

at top of wall, 26

height above foundation, 4

in curved walls, 23

in grout channels, 25, 26

marking locations of, 34

placement, 14

placing in grout channels, 25

spacing in foundation, 4

specifications, 4, 25

splicing, 26

tying, 26

Rock veneer as exterior finish, 42

R-value of APEX Block™, 2

S

Second course of blocks, 13

Shims

to level the blocks, 9

Specifications

APEX Block™, 2

grout, 34

Stabilizing the blocks, 26

Stacking the blocks

first course, 7

grout channel alignment, 13

seam alignment, 13

smooth interior surface, 13

Staples, 12

at corners, 12

at openings, 14

Stucco as exterior finish, 41

T

Test results, 2, 1

Tools

concrete scraper, 6

electric chain saw, 5

for working with APEX Block™, 5

glue and glue gun, 6

rasp, 6

Sawzall, 5

staples, 6

Top plates, 36

W

Walls

adding courses of blocks, 13

bracing, 19

curved, 21

first course of blocks, 7

Windows

bucking out, 15

wrapping, 38

Wood flooring

installing, 31

Wrapping windows, 38

Building With Apex Block 113007

Documents

apex block specifications

apex block interlocking

masonry block

construction site

basics version

basics copyright

trademark notice

thoen additions