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TELEGRAPH TRAVEL GUIDE

BRUSSELS

Natives o Brussels describe themselves aszwanze (mongrel), and its this mixed-up nature that makes the place so special. This bilingual city, under occupation byvarious powers or centuries, is a melting pot o infuences; cosmopolitan, yetwith a style all its own.

Post-war development means Brussels could never claim to be beautiul though its cobbled squares and Art Nouveau structures belie the boring jibes but it compensates with great museums and superb restaurants. Theres abohemian edge to the city, rom its quirky boutiques to brilliant bars, where anup-or-a-good-time vibe is as much o an attraction as the array o potent Bel-gian brews.

Above all, Brussels is a city at ease with itsel, and this relaxed eel makes it simpleto all in love with.

Clare Thomson

.co.uk/travel

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Getting there

Eurostar (0870 518 6186,www.eurostar.com) runs trainsrom London Waterloo toBrussels Gare du Midi.

SN Brussels Airlines (0905 6095609, www.fysn.com) andBMI (0870 607 0555,www.fybmi.com) y direct toBrussels International airport.Ryanair (0871 246 0000,www.ryanair.com) ies toCharleroi, an hour rom thecapital.

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BRUSSELS

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1 GRANDPLACEWhen Louis XIVs artillery blitzed central Brussels in, the impact on tourism was doubtless low on theagenda; but an unwitting legacy was one o Europesshowpiece squares. Rebuilt in Flemish Renaissance

style in just our years, the cobbled GrandPlace is aglorious array o gables and gilt-adorned guildhouses,all in the sleek shadow o the Gothic town halls spire.Jean Cocteau called the square the worlds richesttheatre, and you can watch the action unold romone o many terrace bars.

2 MUSES ROYAUX DES BEAUX-ARTSA showcase or the best o Flemish and Belgian art ortwo showcases, to be precise. The Muse des Beaux-Arts (o Auden ame) has masterpieces by Bruegel theElder, Rubens, Van Dyck and the Flemish Primitives;the Muse dArt Moderne holds the worlds largestcollection o Magrittes, excellent works by ellow

Belgians James Ensor, Leon Spilliaert and Paul Delvaux,and plenty o international names. Theres an ace ca,too: the MuseumBrasseries menu was devised bythree-Michelin-starred che Peter Goossens.

Rue de la Rgence /Place Royale - www.ne-arts-museum.beOpen Tue-Sun, am-pm. (.)

3 MUSE HORTAArt Nouveau blossomed in Brussels in the late thcentury, and the driving orce was the architect Victor

Horta. His home in St Gilles, south o the centre, has arelatively restrained aade but, inside, his use owrithing wrought iron and wood, exposed metalwork,richly patterned stained glass and, above all, naturallight still takes the breath away.

Rue Amricaine - (Tram , ) www.hortamuseum.beOpen Tue-Sun, pm-.pm. (.)

4 CANTILLON BREWERY

You can sample Belgian beers at any old ca; but hereyou can discover Brusselss signature brew. Lambic(used to make the amous ruit beers and sharp,coppery gueuze) is the only spontaneously ermented(ie, no yeast) beer in the world, a product o the uniquelocal microclimate. Traditional production has all butdied out, but you can get a taste o it in this immenselyatmospheric place, west o the city centre. Admire thevast copper vasts, antique machinery and endlessbarrels, quiz the boundlessly enthusiastic owner and,o course, sink a couple.

Rue Gheude www.cantillon.be

Open Mon-Fri, .am-pm, Sat am-pm. ()

5 ATOMIUMUp, up and away! Soaring more than t into theheavens, this retrouturist relic o the Worlds Fairis real Dan Dare stu, and a typically bonkers Brusselsicon. Intended to celebrate the local steel industry, itrepresents an iron crystal, magnied billion times,and oers dizzying views across Brussels and beyondrom its nine -ton balls. For a dierent dinner, trythe top-sphere restaurant ( ).

Square de lAtomium (Metro A)

www.atomium.beOpen am-pm. (9)

Rates are based on two people sharing a double room.Most hotels cut their rates at weekends and over summer,when business custom dries up; a 30 per cent reduction iscommon, and better bargains can often be found.

1 AMIGOA ew paces rom the GrandPlace, the Amigo playedhost to Paul Verlaine and Karl Marx when it was thecity prison. Now its part o Rocco Fortes last-word-in-luxury portolio, and theres plenty to detain you: sleek,chic contemporary urnishings, slick service, Magritteprints and dreamy town-hall views come as standard.

Rue de lAmigo -

www.hotelamigo.com-, (-,)

2 LE DIXSEPTIMEHome to the Spanish embassy in the th and thcenturies, Le Dixseptime has more than a hint o theancien rgime in its opulent dcor. The individuallydecorated rooms are named ater Belgian artists, romRubens and Breughel to Magritte; oak beams, originalreplaces and plush abrics abound. Sta are relaxedand riendly, youre near the main sights and, whenyoure all sighted out, you can unwind on the peaceulpatio.

Rue de la Madeleine www.ledixseptieme.be- (197-430)

3 WELCOMEThe world is your oyster at this welcoming hotel amidthe sh restaurants o Place Ste Catherine. Outside, itsa doughty townhouse; inside, its a whistle-stop touro global cultures, with rooms themed by country andurnished with air and amboyance: animal printsand a mosquito-net canopy in the Congo, intricatelycarved doorways in the Bali, Zen simplicity in the Tibet.

Quai au Bois Brler www.hotelwelcome.com- (-)

4 DOWNTOWN-BXLBoutique B&Bs are taking o in Brussels, and this isone o the most impressive: three good-size rooms,with Warhol Marilyns and Mondriaans on the walls,transparent basins in the bathrooms and some o thecitys best bars on the doorstep. For other B&B listingsin Brussels, visit www.bnb-brussels.be orwww.weekendhotel.be.

Rue du March au Charbon www.downtownbxl.com- (-)

TOP FIVE SIGHTS

TOP FIVE HOTELS

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5 THE WHITE HOTELA dream destination or anyone who sleeps in theirsunglasses, the White Hotel takes minimalism to themax. Its monochromatic, Daz-bright spaces areinterrupted only by designer objets and a hint o creamin the bar. The Horta Museum is a pleasant walk away;take a tram to the centre, or rent a Whitezoomerscooter and whizz your way around the hip shops, barsand restaurants recommended in the Whiteselection

guide (also online).

Avenue Louise (Tram , , , ) www.thewhitehotel.be- (85-139)

All prices are for a three-course meal with wine

1 DOMAINE DE LINTILLACMonty Python meets the Prigord: its duck, duck, duckat this unapologetically downhome brasserie, with a

dreamy southern French eel. The check tableclothsand toasters border on the twee, but the produce,supplied by a co-operative o French armers usingtraditional methods, is unquestionably the real deal.Foie gras, cassoulet, cont de canard, gizzards all aretop-notch, and quacking good value.

Rue de Flandre Tues-Sat, noon-pm, .-pm(closed Sun, Mon) (29)

2 LA QUINCAILLERIE

A romantic evening at the ironmongers? Well, theQuincaillerie is a bona de belle poque gem in anattractive corner o Ixelles, a vast ormer hardwarestore with a wrought-iron staircase and acres opolished wood and gleaming metal. The huge seaoodbar hints at its speciality, but i youre not crazy aboutcrustaceans, theres a range o light sh and vegetariandishes, along with inventive takes on Belgo-Frenchcuisine.

Rue du Page (Tram , ) www.quincaillerie.beMon-Fri, noon-.pm, pm-midnight;Sat-Sun, evenings only

(51)

3 TAVERNE DU PASSAGEWith liveried waiters and an original art-deco interior,the timeless Taverne du Passage is a vision o ocean-going lie in the s. Impeccable Belgian cuisine is

served in inimitably Belgian-sized portions, andpeople-watchers can eat out in any weather: therestaurant is in Europes oldest shopping arcade.

Galerie de la Reine www.tavernedupassage.comEvery day, noon-midnight (58)

4 LARRIRE PAYSRestaurants around Place du Grand Sablon tend to bepricey, but this cosy rustic-modern brasserie is a mostwelcome exception, and accordingly popular with artytypes. Serving superior salads, sandwiches andbrasserie staples, its a great spot or lunchtimereuelling, and the shady terrace only adds to theattraction.

Rue des Minimes www.arrierepays.beTue-Fri, noon-.pm, -pm; Sat-Sun, noon-pm (closed Mon evening)

( or a light lunch) (26/13)

5 BIJ DEN BOERThe Place Ste Catherine district is awash with shrestaurants, and this earthy establishment is a localavourite. It oers simple, superbly resh sh atsensible prices, in a no-nonsense bistro setting owooden banquettes and mirrors. A great place to tryBelgian specialities (mussels, eels in green sauce,monksh with leeks), it also does a meanbouillabaisse.

Quai aux Briques

www.bijdenboer.comMon-Sat, noon-.pm, -.pm (closed Sun) (our-course set menu ) (44/25)

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TOP FIVERESTAURANTS

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Bars and cafsLArchiduc (Rue Dansaert 6-8; rom 5pm) is an art-deco gem, with supercool jazz sounds and weekend

concerts. Chez Mo eder Lambic (Rue de Savoie 68;rom 4pm; Metro Horta) is beer central, a no-rillsplace with several hundred Belgian brews on oer.Beurskaee (Rue Orts 20-28; Thu-Sat, rom 8pm)pulls in an arty Flemish crowd with cutting-edgesounds, stripped-down dcor and an unrivalled buzz.Cirio (Rue de la Bourse 18; rom 10am) is a bellepoque beauty, dating rom , and popular withthe ur-clad blue-rinse brigade; try a half en half(halwhite wine, hal sparkling). Le Greenwich (Rue desChartreux 7; rom 10.30am) is a high-ceilingedperiod classic, oering cheap drinks and chess gamesgalore. Au Daringman (9 Rue de Flandre; romnoon, Sat rom 4pm, closed Sun, Mon) is anunassuming workers bar thats been taken up by

rockers and art students, giving it an authenticallyedgy vibe (at least or now). To make a real evening oit, it rom terrace to terrace on Place St Gry or drinkyour way down Rue du March au Charbon.

NightlifeBars in Brussels stay open exceedingly late, but iyoure here or more than the beer, try a ew o the

ollowing. For rock gigs, Ancienne Belgique(Boulevard Anspach 110; 0032 2 548 2424,www.abconcerts.be) and Le Botanique (Rue Royale236; 0032 2 218 3732, www.botanique.be) bothhave top-notch programmes and a moresophisticated atmosphere than most British venues.Techno ends rom across Europe ock to the bunker-like Fuse (Rue Blaes 208; 0032 2 511 9789,www.use.be); i blings more your thing, try R&Bnights at Studio 44 (Avenue de la Toison dOr 44;0032 474 477187, www.studio44.be). Recyclart(Rue des Ursulines 25; 0032 2 502 5734,www.recyclart.be) oers gigs, lm nights and arthappenings in a converted railway station. For classicalconcerts, the main venue is the trendily tagged Bozar,

ormerly the Palais des Beaux-Arts (Rue Ravenstein23; 0032 2 507 8200, www.bozar.be); the operahouse, La Monnaie (Place de la Monnaie; 0032 2229 1210, www.lamonnaie.be), is one o Europesbest (Antonio Pappano was music director beore hismove to Covent Garden), but tickets are like gold dust.

ShoppingWhile Antwerp is the epicentre o the Belgian ashionscene, Brussels is catching up ast, which means theres

plenty more on oer than beer, lace and chocolates.Fashionistas should head to Rue Dansaert and Rue deFlandre; chocoholics should start at the Sablon; latter-day Lovejoys will nd bargains galore in the antiquesoutlets on the Marolles. The city also hosts some livelymarkets, including the sprawling ea market on Placedu Jeu de Balle (daily, 7am-2pm) and theSablonantiques market (Sat, 9am-5pm; Sun, 9am-1pm).

CLOTHES: Maison Martin Margiela(Rue de Flandre114; 0032 2 233 7520); Stijl(Rue Dansaert 74; 00322 512 0313). CHOCOLATES: Laurent Gerbaud/AMSweet(Rue des Chartreux 4; 0032 2 513 5131);Pierre Marcolini (Rue des Minimes 1; 0032 2 5141206); Wittamer(6 Place du Grand Sablon; 0032 2

546 1110). BEER: Beer Mania(Chausse de Wavre174-176; 0032 2 512 1788; bus 95); or try bigsupermarkets such as Delhaize or GB.

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BRUSSELS

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OUT AND ABOUT

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FestivalsLes Nuits Botanique (Apr/May; www.botanique.be)oers hipper-than-thou rock, world music andchanson evenings at one o Europes most civilisedvenues. The Brussels Jazz Marathon (May;www.brusselsjazzmarathon.be) is basically a barcrawl, but with a swinging live soundtrack. CouleurCa (June; www.couleurcae.be) brings world musicand a carnival atmosphere to a spectacular ormercustoms depot. Ommegang (July; www.ommegang.be) recreates the arrival o Emperor Charles V inBrussels in , with suitable pomp and pageantry.Bruxelles les Bains (July/Aug;www.bruxelleslesbains.be) sees a stretch o the cityscanal transormed into a beach resort, with surpris-

ingly successul results. The new Klara Festival (Sep;www.klaraestival.be) promises classical music andcutting-edge electronica. The Christmas market (Dec;www.plaisirsdhiver.be), is held on the GrandPlace,where theres also an ice rink.

Main tourist ofceGrandPlace

0032 2 513 8940

www.brusselsinternational.beOpen Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm;Sundays, summer 9am-6pm, winter 10am-2pm(closed Jan 1 to Easter)

Brussels is a year-round destination, but can bedank and dreary in November and February. Somerestaurants and bars close in summer, when the localsand Eurocrats tend to leave town.

For cultural listings and a snapshot o Brussels lie,pick up The Bulletin, a weekly English-languagemagazine. Use-It Brussels is an irreverent insider guideaimed at trendy young travellers.

Brussels is one hour ahead o Britain. Belgiumscurrency is the euro. Cash machines can be oundacross the city (though some are open only to clientso the bank that owns them) and most establishmentstake credit cards.

The Brussels Card (rom the tourist ofce or atwww.brusselsinternational.be; prices vary) oers reemuseum entry, ree public transport and discounts inshops, restaurant and bars or one, two or three days.Many museums are closed on Mondays.

Public transport: STIB/MIVB (www.stib.irisnet.be)runs the tram, bus and Metro network; maps andtickets rom the tourist ofce or at Metro stations.

PRACTICALINFORMATION

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TELEGRAPH TRAVEL GUIDE

BRUSSELS

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BRUSSELS

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TOP FIVE HOTELS

1AMIGO

Rue de lAmigo -

2LE DIXSEPTIME

Rue de la Madeleine

3WELCOME

Quai au Bois Brler

4DOWNTOWN-BXL

Rue de March au Charbon

5THE WHITE HOTEL

Avenue Louise (Tram , , , )

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ST-JOSSE-TEN-NOODE

Parc deBruxelles

Warande

ParcLopold

5 To Atomium

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TOP FIVE SIGHTS

1GRANDPLACE

2MUSES ROYAUX DES BEAUX-ARTS

Rue de la Rgence /Place Royale -

3MUSE HORTA

Rue Amricaine - (Tram ,)

4CANTILLON BREWERY

Rue Gheude

5ATOMIUM

Square de lAtomium (Metro A)

TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS

1DOMAINE DE LINTILLAC

Rue de Flandre

2LA QUINCAILLERIE

Rue du Page (Tram ,)

3TAVERNE DU PASSAGE

Galerie de la Reine

4LARRIRE PAYS

Rue des Minimes

5BIJ DEN BOER

Quai aux Briques