Spring 2013 Box Pleated Dress Style #1242012 - Bateau neck - Fitted bodice with A-line skirt - Black grosgrain ribbon waistband - Concealed zipper, hook & eye closure in back - Fully lined Suggested Retail: $150 Poplin 100% Pima Cotton Blossom Blush
Box Pleated Dress Tech Pack
May 10, 2015
Tech pack with detailed garment specifications and construction details for a box pleated dress. Additional analysis is provided for the choices made and how these affect the quality and price of the garment.
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Spring 2013
Box Pleated DressStyle #1242012- Bateau neck - Fitted bodice with A-line skirt- Black grosgrain ribbon waistband- Concealed zipper, hook & eye closure in back- Fully linedSuggested Retail: $150
Poplin100% Pima Cotton
Blossom
Blush
DATE:STYLE #:TECHNICAL DESIGNER:PRODUCT CATEGORY:BRAND / LABEL:
PRICE RANGE:
SIZE CLASSIFICATION:
BRAND / LABEL: BRAND / LABEL: Muse BRAND / LABEL: Banana RepublicRETAIL STORE: RETAIL STORE: Nordstrom RETAIL STORE: Banana RepublicRETAIL PRICE: RETAIL PRICE: $128.00 RETAIL PRICE: $175.00OTHER INFORMATION: OTHER INFORMATION: Cotton / Spandex OTHER INFORMATION: 100% Silk
PHOTO PHOTO PHOTO
Overall fit, Fabric Quality (mostly lined dresses), Quality garment construction (for longer wear)
BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew $98 - $298TARGET MARKET SEGMENT:
IMPORTANT TO CUSTOMER:
Ann TaylorAnn Taylor
$215.00100% Silk
Monday, January 30, 20121242012Kara PelletierDressesJ. Crew
Better MissyCOMPETING BRANDS: Ann Taylor, Muse, Banana Republic
COMPETITOR RESEARCH - DRESSSEASON: Spring 2013
Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
GROUP NAME: Wine and RosesSIZE CLASSIFICATION/ RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12FABRIC NAME: PoplinFIBER CONTENT:STYLE DESCRIPTION:
100% Cotton
DATE:
STYLE #:
TECHNICAL DESIGNER:
PRODUCT CATEGORY:
BRAND / LABEL:
PRICE RANGE:
SIZE CLASSIFICATION:
BRAND / LABEL: BRAND / LABEL: Muse BRAND / LABEL: Banana RepublicRETAIL STORE: RETAIL STORE: Nordstrom RETAIL STORE: Banana Republic
RETAIL PRICE: RETAIL PRICE: $128.00 RETAIL PRICE: $175.00RETAIL MARKUP: RETAIL MARKUP: 52.5% RETAIL MARKUP: 70.0%WHOLESALE PRICE: WHOLESALE PRICE: $60.80 WHOLESALE PRICE:WHOLESALE MARKUP: WHOLESALE MARKUP: 65.0% WHOLESALE MARKUP:TOTAL COST: TOTAL COST: $21.28 TOTAL COST: $52.50
FABRIC: FABRIC: $10.64 FABRIC: $26.25TRIM: TRIM: $0.85 TRIM: $2.10CMT / LABOR: CMT / LABOR: $9.58 CMT / LABOR: $23.63PACKING MATERIALS: PACKING MATERIALS: $0.21 PACKING MATERIALS: $0.53
NOTES: NOTES: NOTES:
PERCENT TO TOTALFABRIC: 50%TRIM: 4%CMT /LABOR: 45%PACKING MATERIALS: 1%
NOTES:
Ann TaylorAnn Taylor
$215.00
$2.58$29.03
COST RANGE$10.64 - $32.25$0.85 - $2.58$9.58 - $29.03$0.21 - $0.65
Ann Taylor, Muse, Banana RepublicIMPORTANT TO CUSTOMER: Overall fit, Fabric Quality (mostly lined dresses), Quality garment construction (for longer wear)
70.0%
COMPETING BRANDS:
$64.50
$32.25
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
TARGET MARKET SEGMENT: Better Missy
$0.65
Missy / 0 - 12 Kara PelletierFABRIC NAME: Poplin DressesFIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton J. Crew
$98 - $298
COMPETITOR COST ANALYSIS - DRESSSEASON: Spring 2013 40938GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses 1242012SIZE CLASSIFICATION/ RANGE:
PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesFABRIC NAME: PoplinTECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierSIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12
DESIGN SHEET WITH CAD'SSEASON: Spring 2013
STYLE #: 1242012GROUP NAME: Wine and RosesDATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirtBRAND / LABEL: J. CrewFIBER CONTENT: 100% CottonPRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesFABRIC NAME: Poplin
Yarn DyeShell
N/AGARMENT PLACEMENT:
FIBER CONTENT:THREAD COUNT: COLOR APPLICATION:
100% Cotton
FABRIC MILL, REF/ART # & COUNTRY:
128x524.02 oz/yd²
FABRIC NAME: Poplin
FABRIC WEIGHT:
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirtFIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. CrewFABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesSIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierGROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
MAIN FABRIC DETAILSSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
FABRIC MILL, REF/ART # & COUNTRY: N/A
Piece DyeFABRIC WEIGHT: 3.2 oz/yd² GARMENT PLACEMENT: FacingTHREAD COUNT: 224x120 COLOR APPLICATION:
100% CottonFABRIC NAME: Satin FIBER CONTENT:
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirtBRAND / LABEL: J. CrewFIBER CONTENT: 100% CottonPRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesFABRIC NAME: PoplinTECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierSIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12STYLE #: 1242012GROUP NAME: Wine and RosesDATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
FABRIC 2 DETAILSSEASON: Spring 2013
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesSIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierGROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ FRONTSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirtFIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. CrewFABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesFABRIC NAME: PoplinSIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierGROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ BACKSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirtBRAND / LABEL: J. CrewFIBER CONTENT: 100% CottonPRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesFABRIC NAME: Poplin
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesKara PelletierSIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER:1242012GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #:Monday, March 12, 2012
FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ INSIDESEASON: Spring 2013 DATE:
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirtFIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. CrewFABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
LABEL PLACEMENT & PACKAGINGSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesSIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierFABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirtFIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
Blossom Self 60" 1 1/2 yd
Lining 45" 2 ydWaistband, Neck, Armholes 20" 1/4 yd
Blossom Center Front 1" 1Center Back 21" 1Center Back 1Center Back 1Center Back 1Center Back 1Allover T60 210 ydCenter Back 1
PinkInvisible ZipperBrand LabelCare/Content Label
Grosgrain Ribbon
ESTIMATED BILL OF MATERIALS - DRESSSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, January 30, 2012GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierSIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE:
100% Cotton Poplin Blossom TPX 13-1409
100% Rayon Satin Lining
Black
COLOR
SIZE /
WIDTH /
WEIGHT
Poplin100% Cotton
STYLE DESCRIPTION:
PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
PLACEMENT ON GARMENT
BRAND / LABEL:
FABRIC NAME:
J. CrewFIBER CONTENT:
APPROXIMATE COST
RANGEQUANTITY
Blush TPX 13-1409Interfacing White
DTM
Size LabelCountry of Origin LabelThread
COLOR COMBO FABRIC /ITEM
Hook & Eye Metal
$10.64 - $32.25
4%
SAMPLE
SIZE: 8 FRONT
POM # Description
Body
Measurement
Functional
Ease
Design
Ease
Requested
Measurement
1 Front Length from HPS 34 10 Chest Width (1" below armhole) 35 1/2 1 36 1/213 Across Shoulder 15 3/4 15 3/420 Waist Width (14" from HPS) 27 1/2 1 28 1/291 Hip Width (24" from HPS) 38 2 40 95 Sweep 50 43 Armhole width - Curved 16 1/4 16 1/460 Front Neck Drop (HPS to seam) 3 61 Back Neck Drop (HPS to seam) 2 63 Neck Width (HPS to HPS) 11 3/4
156 Shoulder Slope 2
BACK
Monday, January 23, 20121242012
DRESS SAMPLE SPECIFICATION WORKSHEET
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesTECHNICAL DESIGNER:
Spring 2013Wine and RosesMissy / 0 - 12
SEASON:
GROUP NAME:
DATE:
STYLE #:
MEASUREMENTS ARE:
Kara Pelletier
J. CrewSleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
BRAND / LABEL:100% Cotton
SKETCHESPOINT OF MEASUREMENT
Circumfrence
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE:
FIBER CONTENT:STYLE DESCRIPTION:
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesFIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
DRESS POM PLACEMENT SKETCH - FRONTSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, January 23, 2012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierGROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: DressesFIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
GROUP NAME:
DRESS POM PLACEMENT SKETCH - BACKSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, January 23, 2012
Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE:
26
QTY PATTERN PIECE
1 Front Bodice
2 Side Front Bodice
2 Back Bodice
2 Side Back Bodice
1 Front Skirt
2 Side Front Skirt
2 Back Skirt
2 Side Back Skirt
1 Front Facing
1 Back Facing
LINING
1 Front Lining
2 Side Front Lining
2 Back Lining
2 Side Back Lining
INTERFACING
1 Front Facing
2 Back Facing
100% Cotton Poplin
100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
match vertically
STYLE DESCRIPTION:FIBER CONTENT:
FABRIC NAME:
ESTIMATED PATTERN CARD - DRESSSpring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 06, 2012Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
SEASON:
GROUP NAME:
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE:
TOTAL NUMBER OF PATTERN PIECES TO CUT SKETCH
FABRIC MATCHING/NAP FRONT
Dresses100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. CrewSleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY:
100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
100% Cotton Poplin
100% Polyester Fusible
100% Rayon Satin Lining
100% Rayon Satin Lining
100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
100% Rayon Satin Lining
100% Rayon Satin Lining
100% Polyester Fusible
match vertically
BACK
SPI EST. COST
SPI EST. COST
ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION CALLOUTS - DRESSSEASON:
STYLE DESCRIPTION:J. CrewFIBER CONTENT:
DressesFABRIC NAME:
Kara Pelletier1242012GROUP NAME:
Spring 2013Wine and RosesMissy / 0 - 12Poplin100% Cotton
DATE:
PRODUCT CATEGORY:
BRAND / LABEL:
STYLE #:
TECHNICAL DESIGNER:
Monday, February 27, 2012
Back Waistline
$1.50
SKETCH
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE:
SKETCH
Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
14-16
14-16
14-16 $1.50
$0.90
$0.75
TOTAL ESTIMATED COST FOR GARMENT MAKE: $22.45
Join Front & Side Front with Busted Seam &
Overedge Finish
Set Pleats on Front Skirt & Stitch Closed
Join Front Bodice & Skirt with Busted Seam &
Overedge Finish
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH
Front Bodice Princess Seam
Front Waistline
Join Backs with Busted Seam & Overedge
Finish
14-16 $0.90
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH
Join Back Bodice & Skirt with Busted Seam &
Overedge Finish
Back Bodice Princess SeamJoin Back & Side Back with Busted Seam &
Overedge Finish
Set Pleats on Back Skirt & Stitch Closed
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $5.40
$3.15ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL:
14-16Waistline Attach Grosgrain Ribbon with SN Lockstitch
14-16
Set Invisible Zipper
14-16 $0.75
$1.00
14-16 $0.75
Center Back Seam
14-16 $0.50
SPI EST. COST
SPI EST. COST
Sideseam
Front Princess Seam
STYLE DESCRIPTION:
FABRIC NAME:
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE:
Armhole $0.50
Join Front & Front Side Linings with French
Seam
14-16
DressesFIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH
Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY:
SKETCHLOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH
SN Understitching
Join Front & Back with Busted Seam &
Overedge Finish
Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION CALLOUTS - DRESSSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 27, 2012
Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012GROUP NAME:
14-16 2.4
14-16 $0.30
14-16 $0.50
14-16 $1.60
14-16 $1.60
SKETCH
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $3.70
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $5.90
14-16 $0.60
$0.50
Shoulder Seam Join Front & Back with SN Lockstitch
Neckline SN Understitching
Center Back Seam Join Back Linings with French Seam
14-16 $1.60
Back Princess Seam Join Back & Side Linings with French Seam
Shoulder Seam Join Front & Back Linings with French Seam
Sideseam Join Front & Back Linings with French Seam
14-16
SPI EST. COST
SPI EST. COST
STYLE DESCRIPTION:FIBER CONTENT:
Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierFABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION CALLOUTS - DRESSSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 27, 2012GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE:
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH
14-16 $1.00
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $2.10
14-16 $0.60
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH
Bra Strap Keeper
Lining Sweep
$0.20
$1.20
SKETCH
Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
14-16
$0.10
Attach to Inside Shoulder
Make ½" Clean Finish Hem
100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $2.20
14-16
SKETCH
3-4 $1.00
$0.20
Attach Hem Tape
Lining at SideseamAttach Lining to Shell at Sideseam with Thread
Chainstitch
Make 1 ½" Blind Hem
Shell Sweep
Set Lining Set Lining to Zipper
CB Seam Attach Hook & Eye Above Zipper
FABRICS YARDS UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
100% Cotton Poplin 1.5 $7.75 $11.63
1005 Rayon Satin Lining 2 $3.50 $7.00
Interfacing 0.25 $0.90 $0.23
$18.85
42.05%
TRIMS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
Grosgrain Ribbon 1 $0.05 $0.05
Invisible Zipper 1 $0.88 $0.88
Brand Label 1 $0.10 $0.10
Care/Content Label 1 $0.08 $0.08
Size Label 1 $0.08 $0.08
Country of Origin Label 1 $0.05 $0.05
Thread 210 $0.00075 $0.16
Hook & Eye 1 $0.08 $0.08
$1.48
3.30%
$ AMOUNT
$0.20
$0.30
$1.20
$22.45
$24.15
53.87%
PACKING MATERIALS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
Polybag $0.10
Hanger $0.25
TOTAL COSTS WHOLESALE PRICE
$0.35 WHOLESALE MARKUP RETAIL MARKUP
0.78% WHOLESALE MARGIN ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
FIRST COST SHEETSEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 06, 2012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara PelletierFABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
SKETCH
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. CrewSTYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
TOTAL CMT/ LABOR
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST
TOTAL TRIMS
TOTAL FABRICS
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST
CMT / LABOR
Grading
Marking
Cutting
Make Charges (Labor)
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST
$44.83
N/A
N/A
N/A
70.0%
$149.43
TOTAL PACKING MATERIALS
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