Bon App June 2011

THE NAVIGATOR

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Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli (above, left and right)—a.k.a. “the Franks”—are the duo behind a handful of wildly popular Brooklyn and Manhattan spots, including Frankies 457 Spuntino and Prime Meats. When it came to their most ambitious project to date—Frankies 570 Spuntino in Greenwich Village, due to open early this summer—they sought inspiration well o! the beaten track, visiting Copenhagen to take in the city’s incredible culinary and design scenes. Here, they tell us their favorite things about the world’s hottest food destination.

1 The Reservation“René Redzepi’s Noma is one of the most beautifully designed restaurants in the world. Easily one of the best meals of my life. He makes a dish called Hen and the Egg (pictured) that incorporates hay.” —Frank F.

2 Hot ’Hoods“The chill Christiania is like Berkeley in the 1960s. Strøget, a pedestrians-only street, is the heart of Copenhagen. Kødbyens, the Meatpacking District, is a hot spot for artists.” —Frank C.

3 Buzzworthy“The baristas at the Co!ee Collective have won as many awards as 30 Rock. We always make sure to bring a few bags of their beans back home.” —Frank F.

4 Pedal Pushing“Renting a bike is key. Every street has a separate bike lane and everyone knows (and obeys) the laws. [See Cycle City sidebar.] —Frank F.

See page 24 for the rest of the Franks’ picks

“We’ve been to Copenhagen twice recently and are planning another trip soon.

There’s no place I’d rather travel to right now.”—Frank Falcinelli

22 JUNE 2011

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Noma restaurant

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2 Amagertorv Square on the Strøget

Coffee Collective

There’s a food revolution in full swing, and it’s not in Tokyo or

Barcelona. Chefs Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli take

us on a tour of the Danish capital

C O P E N H A G E N :

Where Chefs Go on

Vacation

Public transportation

“Summers here are short, so any chance we get to spend time outside we take. My favorite spot for a late-night picnic with polse (sausage, below), beer, or Champagne is along the water in Christiania near downtown. In the center of Copenhagen, Europa 1989 café is the best people-watching spot in town. Christianshavns Bådudlejning & Café, a boat rental and waterside café on a historic canal, is for romantics. Mesteren & Lærlingen in the Meatpacking District is fun for beer and live music. And of course there’s my restaurant nearby for cocktails and oysters.”

24!HOUR PARTY PEOPLE

Your watch isn’t broken: Yes, it’s late, yes, it’s light out, and yes, everyone is at one of the city’s many outdoor cafés or parks. Anders Selmer, chef at Kødbyens Fiskebar (see No. 5), tells you where to make like a local—all summer night long:

“You can smell the ocean and hear the ship horns from your room at the Copenhagen

Admiral Hotel.” —Frank CastronovoTHE NAVIGATOR : COPENHAGEN

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5 Young Man and the Sea“Anders Selmer was a sommelier at Noma before opening Kødbyens Fiskebar, his lively fish restaurant in the Meatpacking District. He serves the best of Danish seafood, including fat local oysters, blue mussels, and trout.” —Frank C.

6 Design Details“Walking the streets in"luenced the design of our newest restaurant more than anything else. There’s amazing ironwork, light "ixtures, and even door knobs.” —Frank F.

7 Blue Plate Special“You can’t miss the Royal Copenhagen "lagship store, where they sell all the classic porcelain designs.” —Frank C.

8 Lunch Like a Local“Sankt Annæ is the quintessential family-run restaurant. Get the shrimp smørrebrød, or open-face sandwich. Sadly, it’s lunch only.” —Frank C.

9 Experimental Beer“Mikkel Borg Bjergsø’s Mikkeller bar serves his crazy beers, which have a cult-like following. The Beer Geek Breakfast, made with co!ee and oats, is intense.” —Frank C.

10 Holy Heights“The Church of Our Savior has two things to look for: a hand-carved wood organ and a cork-screw spire you can climb for a bird’s-eye view of Copenhagen.” —Frank F.

For more details, see Sourcebook, page 124.

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“Copenhagen’s greatest attraction is our bicycle culture. Ride and you’re a part of the city, not a tourist with a giant map. Rent from Baisikeli—their bikes are stylish and inexpensive.” —Mikael Colville-Andersen, bike evangelist and founder of copenhagencyclechic.com

CYCLE CITY

Kødbyens Fiskebar restaurant

The cool brew

Shrimp smørrebrød at Sankt Annæ

Royal Copenhagen

porcelain

Danish for design

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10 P.M.,Frederiksberg Garden

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The Church of Our Savior10

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DEAR FOODIST:I recently tried to pay a restaurant

check with a credit card but was told they only accepted cash. And it was a nice place. What gives? —Plastic Man

DEAR PLASTIC MAN:

It’s one thing for a sandwich shop or food truck to accept cash only, but when a place is charging $15 or more for entrées and offering wine by the bottle, not taking credit cards seems downright inhospi-table. (And hospitality should be the guiding principle of any restaurant.) So why all the plastic hate? For starters, smaller, independent restaurants—the kind people like me love to support—prefer cash for the same reason we all do: It’s money in

your pocket. Second, credit cards charge a merchant fee for every transaction, anywhere from 1.5 to 3 percent. And for a small business, every penny counts. If a place decides to take credit cards, the customers will likely pay the fee via higher menu prices. Restaurateurs have to decide whether they want to please themselves or their customers. To make sure you won’t have to dine and dash next time, ask the restaurant what its policy is when you reserve.

THE TAKEAWAYTHE TAKEAWAYW H AT ’S G O I N G O N I N G O I N G O U T

Chefs from Austin to San Francisco are adding Japanese shichimi togarashi (made with seven spices) to popcorn, Bloody Marys, french fries, and any other dish that can bene!it from its spicy-citrusy-savory hit. We love Gion Hararyokaku brand from Kyoto. ($26; southwillard.com)

LUCKYSEVEN

C O O L

C O N D I M E N T

34 JUNE 2011

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Foodist ̌̌ ̌ ̌ ̌ ̌ ̌ ̌ ̌ ̌ ̌ ̌ ̌

the

Japanese sweet potatoes from Mariquita Farm

T H E D E S T I N A T I O N D I N E R

Add the diner to the growing list of restaurants getting a full-on chef makeover (think gastropubs and food trucks). Yes, eggs are still on the menu, but so is the name of the farm they’re sourced from, and they just might be cooked sous vide. And you can pair your line-caught tuna melt with a biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc. For a taste of the trend, we break down the signature dish at Plow in San Francisco. —MERYL ROTHSTEIN

OUR FAVORITE MODERN DINERS

NICKEL DINERLos Angeles nickeldiner.com

MUST ORDER: Maple-bacon doughnut

M. WELLSLong Island City, NYmwellsdiner.com

MUST ORDER: Foie gras grilled cheese

24 DINERAustin24diner.com

MUST ORDER: Roasted banana and brown sugar milk shake

BITE CAFEChicagobitecafechicago.com

MUST ORDER: Breakfast poutine (fries, bacon gravy, poached eggs, cheese curds, and pickled chiles)

CROSSROADS DINERDallascrossroads-diner.com

MUST ORDER: Pickle-juice egg salad sandwich

CITIZEN’S BANDSan Franciscocitizensbandsf.com

MUST ORDER: Braised pork belly and egg

Duck from Sonoma Artisan Foie Gras

Lotus-root chipsfrom GreenLeaf Produce

Bread from Acme Bread Company

Leeksfrom Mariquita Farm

Eggsfrom Toluma Farms

Chefs are revolutionizing that American classic with short-order cooking that’s long on creativity

T O P T R E N D

ANATOMY OF A HASH

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ANDREW KNOWLTON IS THE FOODIST. HE ANSWERS YOUR QUESTIONS HERE AND

AT BONAPPETIT.COM!GO!FOODIST. E"MAIL HIM AT FOODIST!BONAPPETIT.COM.

P H O T O G R A P H S B Y T K T K T JUNE 2011 105

T H E G I R L C A N C O O K

S H E ’ S A N A C T R E S S , A S I N G E R , A B L O G G E R , A M O M , A W I F E , A N D N O W A C O O K B O O K A U T H O R .

I S T H E R E A N Y T H I N G G W Y N E T H P A L T R O W C A N ’ T D O ?

W E H O P P E D A P L A N E TO LO N D O N TO F I N D O U T O N C E A N D FO R A L LB Y A D A M R A P O P O R T P H O T O G R A P H S B Y M A T T J O N E S

JUNE 2011 107 106 JUNE 2011

of her London townhouse, wondering what to do next. She has just grilled two meaty halibut !llets, topped them with a quickly diced mango-avocado salsa, and !nished the dish with an aggressive squirt of lime juice.

All this while a photographer is asking her to turn this way just a bit, look up slightly, and smile yet again.

Paltrow, 38, is either an extremely con!dent cook or a remarkably good actress. Or, of course, both.

“How about we do the pasta next?” the photographer asks.“Sure!” With that, Paltrow !res up her pro-style range, reaches for a 12-inch

skillet, and adds to it a generous dose of olive oil and a bowl of roasted tomatoes.The reason we’re here in her kitchen at all is twofold: Paltrow’s new cookbook,

My Father’s Daughter (see “Words to Cook By” on page TK), is legitimately good—the work of a passionate home cook who knows her stu". And when she gets an idea in her head, she makes it happen. Back when this article was still in the planning stages and we had yet to even book the photo shoot, we sent Paltrow an e-mail. We wanted to know if she needed any help developing original dishes for the article. Because, frankly, developing recipes can take forever; it’s what we do here at Bon Appétit, but it’s never easy.

“What’s up?!” she shot back moments later from London. “I’ve done the recipes already and tested them (well, I have one to retest). They are as follows, with a sum-mer get-together theme, using abundant ingredients… Shall I send [them] over?”

Um, well…yeah. Let’s be clear: We editors expect to badger our contributors for on-time copy

and recipes. We are not used to timeliness. In short, we are not used to Gwyneth being Gwyneth—the movies, the buzz-generating turn on Glee, the talk of a record contract, her increasingly popular Goop blog. There have even been rumors of her developing her own food magazine.

But she’ll tell you herself: She’s not Wonder Woman. “Don’t know how that rumor got into the papers,” she says of the magazine project. “It could not be further from the truth. I literally do not have time to bathe let alone start a magazine.”

Oh, yeah—time. That can be hard to !nd when you’re raising two kids and your husband, Chris Martin, is the lead singer in one of the world’s biggest bands, Cold-play. (Martin makes a brief appearance during the shoot post–morning workout, breezing into the kitchen amid the lights and stylists to crank up a purple energy shake in the family’s Vitamix blender.)

As a cook, Paltrow has vacillated between obsessively health-minded and just-like-the-rest-of-us indulgent, !nally settling somewhere in the sensible middle. When her father, the late Bruce Paltrow, was diagnosed with throat cancer in 1998, she immersed herself in research of all things good for you, hoping, as she writes in her book, to heal her dad: “Of course I couldn’t cure him,

GRILLED CHICKEN WITH FRESH BBQ SAUCE4 SERVINGS Paltrow prepares one batch of this barbecue sauce with adobo to share with her husband and !inishes another with soy sauce for the kids. “You can use it on basically anything grilled,” she says. Two things to remember: The chicken tastes best when cooked on a grill so you get that char. To amplify !lavor, Paltrow marinates the meat in some of the sauce before grill-ing, then lacquers the chicken again on the grill just before serving.

1 cup chopped peeled fresh peaches or 9–10 oz. frozen sliced peaches, thawed, chopped ! cup ketchup

A cook is only as good as her knives. “I really only use Global knives,” says Paltrow. “If I go to friends’ houses and use di!erent knives, I always manage to cut

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 garlic cloves, minced 1"! tsp. adobo sauce from canned chipotle chiles in adobo or 1 tsp. soy sauce Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 skinless, boneless organic chicken breasts Vegetable oil

INGREDIENT INFO: Canned chipotle chiles in

adobo are sold in better supermarkets and at

specialty foods stores and Latin markets.

Combine !irst 5 ingredients in a small sauce-

pan. Season lightly with salt and pepper and

bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to

low; simmer until peaches are very soft and

!lavors meld, about 10 minutes. Remove pan

from heat; let cool. Pour peach mixture into

a blender and purée until smooth. Season

to taste with salt and pepper. Place half the

sauce in a medium bowl; add the chicken

and turn to coat. Let marinate at room tem-

perature for 20 minutes, or cover and chill up

to 8 hours, turning occasionally. Cover and

refrigerate remaining sauce.

Prepare a grill to medium-high heat. Brush

grill rack with oil. Grill chicken until browned

and almost cooked through, 4–5 minutes

per side. Brush on all sides with reserved

sauce; grill until glazed and cooked through,

1–2 minutes per side. Slice crosswise. Serve

remaining sauce alongside.

K E E P I N G H E R E D G E

G W Y N E T H P A L T R O W I S S T A N D I N G B A R E F O O T I N T H E K I T C H E N

(continued on page 1TK)

108 JUNE 2011 P H O T O G R A P H S B Y T K T K T

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* “Clean as you go.”

* “That last pinch of salt or squeeze of lemon…can be the most important step.”

* “Anchovies!”

* “A Vitamix blender will make your soups creamy with no added cream, make smoothies extra light, make breadcrumbs and dressings, and more.…”

* “Drink while you cook.”

* “Around the time my son turned three and a half, we started having early family dinners all together and it quickly became one of the best parts of my life.”

* “Make it fun. It doesn’t have to be complicated.”

WORDS TO COOK BY Our favorite bits and bites from My Father’s Daughter (Grand Central Life & Style)

Paltrow likes to keep it simple in the kitchen: “Maldon sea salt, olive oil, and lemon can make anything taste great,” she says.

Paltrow’s kitchen is on the ground "loor of a double-wide London townhouse and looks out on a backyard with a big stretch of lawn and a lap pool. The back of the townhouse is painted a bold Mediterranean blue, not unlike the dress she wears here [1]. On this page, clockwise from top, Paltrow makes Slow-Roasted Tomato Pasta with Anchovy Oreganata, [2] Grilled Chicken with Peach BBQ Sauce, [3] Strawberry Shortcake Sliders, [4] Peach Coolers, and [5] Corn Vichyssoise.

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BONAPPETIT.COM!G0!GWYNETH

JUNE 2011 111 110 JUNE 2011

PEACH COOLER

MAKES 4 This is Paltrow’s American spin on a Pimm’s Cup, a cocktail from her adopted hometown of London. The key to success? Use ripe, fragrant peaches.

2 very ripe peaches, peeled, cut into !" wedges 6 Tbsp. peach liqueur 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice # cup vodka 1 English hothouse cucumber 2 cups chilled Prosecco 1"! cups chilled soda water 12 fresh mint leaves

Using a muddler or wooden spoon, mash

peaches with liqueur and lemon juice in a

large pitcher. Stir in vodka. DO AHEAD: Can

be made 4 hours ahead. Cover and chill.

Cut " of cucumber lengthwise into

4 spears for garnish. Thinly slice remaining

cucumber. Stir Prosecco, soda water, mint,

and sliced cucumber into pitcher. Fill glasses

with ice. Pour cooler into glasses; garnish

with cucumber spear.

CORN VICHYSSOISE

4 SERVINGS Just as you toss chicken bones into the pot to make a more !lavorful stock, Paltrow uses the stripped corn cobs to for-tify the base of this cold, creamy soup. And then she lets the sweet corn do the talking: “The trick is to not put too many things in that will diminish the taste of summer.”

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, coarsely chopped (about 1"! cups) 5 ears shucked corn, kernels cut from cobs, cobs reserved 1 cup coarsely chopped peeled potato (about 1 medium) 4 cups good-quality vegetable stock Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice # cup crème fraîche or sour cream 1 Tbsp. $inely chopped fresh chives

Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium

heat. Add leeks and cook, stirring occasion-

ally, until they begin to soften, about

5 minutes. Add corn kernels, reserved cobs,

potato, and stock. Season lightly with salt

and pepper. Increase heat to high and bring

soup to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer,

cover with lid slightly ajar, and cook until the

vegetables are very soft, about 35 minutes.

Discard corn cobs; let soup cool slightly.

Working in batches, purée soup in a blender

until very smooth. Set a !ine-mesh strainer

over a large bowl; strain, discarding solids.

Chill soup until cold. Stir in lemon juice, and if

too thick, thin with water by #-cupfuls. Sea-

son with salt and pepper. Spoon a dollop of

crème fraîche atop each serving and sprinkle

with chives.

GRILLED HALIBUT WITH MANGO!AVOCADO SALSA

4 SERVINGS “I’m such an ingredient kind of person,” Paltrow says, referring to the what-you-see-is-what-you-get nature of this lush salsa. “I like ingredients to kind of stay the way they are.”

1 medium ripe avocado, peeled and cut into !" dice 1 medium ripe mango, peeled and cut into !" dice 1 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered 4 large basil leaves, thinly sliced 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for brushing 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 6-oz. halibut or mahi-mahi $illets 4 lime wedges

Prepare a grill to medium-high heat. Gently

combine the avocado, mango, tomatoes,

basil, 1 Tbsp. oil, and 1 Tbsp. lime juice in

a large mixing bowl. Season salsa to taste

with salt and pepper and set aside at room

temperature, gently tossing occasionally.

Place !ish !illets in a 13x9x2" glass baking

dish. Drizzle remaining 2 Tbsp. oil and 2

Tbsp. lime juice over. Season !ish with salt

and pepper. Let marinate at room tempera-

ture for 10 minutes, turning !ish occasionally.

Brush grill rack with oil. Grill !ish until just

opaque in center, about 5 minutes per side.

Transfer to plates. Spoon mango-avocado

salsa over !ish. Squeeze a lime wedge over

each and serve.

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE SLIDERS

4 SERVINGS Paltrow loves strawberry short-cake. “But I’m always telling my kids not to

eat so much white !lour. So for this version I made the biscuits with white spelt !lour instead. Spelt is a type of wheat that is said to be more digestible and doesn’t turn into sugar as easily.”

BISCUITS

2"! cups white spelt $lour plus more 2 tsp. baking powder ! tsp. baking soda ! tsp. kosher salt % cup organic vegetable shortening (or butter) ! cup buttermilk plus more for brushing ! cup plain whole-milk yogurt 3 Tbsp. agave syrup (nectar)

FILLING

2 cups fresh strawberries, hulled, halved 2 Tbsp. agave syrup (nectar) Balsamic vinegar Whipped cream

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

2"-diameter biscuit cutter

INGREDIENT INFO: Agave syrup (nectar) and

spelt !lour are available at better supermar-

kets and at natural foods stores.

BISCUITS Preheat oven to 475°. Whisk

2$% cups spelt !lour and next 3 ingredients in

a large bowl. Using !ingertips, blend in the

shortening; form a well in center of mixture.

Whisk % cup buttermilk, yogurt, and agave

in a small bowl; pour into !lour mixture; stir

with a fork to blend. Transfer to a lightly

!loured work surface. Knead 2 or 3 times to

bring dough together. Press dough into a

&"-thick round. Using 2"-diameter cutter,

cut the dough into rounds. Gather scraps;

repeat cutting until all dough is used. Place

the biscuits on an ungreased baking sheet;

brush with buttermilk.

Bake until golden brown and a tester

inserted comes out clean, about 10 minutes.

Transfer to a wire rack; let cool completely.

FILLING Mix strawberries and agave in a

medium bowl. Drizzle vinegar over; toss.

Cut biscuits in half. Place 3 biscuit bot-

toms on each plate. Spoon whipped cream

over each and top with strawberry mixture.

Place biscuit tops over.

“ I ’ M N O T G O I N G T O B E D O I N G M O L E C U L A R G A S T R O N O M Y ; I ’ M A W I F E A N D A M O M A N D A H O M E C O O K . ”

Paltrow owns loads of cookbooks, but she doesn’t swear by them. “I mostly use them just for ideas,” she says. Instead, she trusts her instincts, a notion she preaches to all home cooks. “Make it how you like it,” she says. “There’s no right or wrong way. If the recipe calls for cumin and you don’t like cumin, substitute something else.” Here, she makes her Grilled Halibut with Mango-Avocado Salsa.

D O I N G I T H E R W A Y

but I found that my body felt really good.” She ended up going vegan for several years—that is, until she became pregnant, at which point grilled cheese and Baskin-Robbins Jamoca Almond Fudge ice cream won out. When she began raising her children, Apple and Moses, she wanted them to eat well and enjoy food. “Could I use some butter and cheese and eggs in my cooking without going down some kind of hippie shame spiral?” she writes. “Yes, I could.”

Few of Paltrow’s recipes—which she develops with her kitchen assistant Julia Turshen, whom she credits prominently in her book—are what you’d call complex. And that’s by design. There’s a fresh simplicity to them; they’re healthy-ish with-out being preachy. In the book, for instance, she gives a great recipe for an oyster po’boy, but also provides a vegan option. And she has recipes for dishes like roasted !sh with salsa verde, chicken and dumplings, and spaghetti alle vongole. If you like Jamie Oliver or the River Cafe cookbooks, My Father’s Daughter will speak to you.

What’s most engaging about Paltrow’s recipes is that there’s usually a reason and a story behind each. “It’s how I think as a cook,” she says while slicing grilled chicken breasts on the bias, just like a catering chef. “I wouldn’t say I’m a very original thinker, but if I have a good experience with something, I’ll want to take it further or adapt it in some way. I’m not going to be doing molecular gastronomy; I’m a wife and a mom and a home cook.”

The only request Paltrow makes during the shoot is that it wrap by 3:00 p.m. so she can pick up her kids from school. At 2:58, we get the last shots of her. A few minutes later she reappears in beat-up jeans and a snug leather jacket, having transformed from cover girl to concerned mom. “You guys aren’t going to let all this food go to waste, are you?” she asks the crew as she gathers up the chicken breasts and slides them into a mega Ziploc bag. “Make sure you take some home with you.

“Okay,” she says on her way toward the front door. “I gotta go! Gotta get the kids.” And that’s it. School’s out, shoot’s over. And the chicken is delicious.

ROASTED TOMATO AND ANCHOVY OREGANATA PASTA

4 SERVINGS Two things you’ll always !ind in Paltrow’s kitchen: roasted tomatoes and plenty of anchovies. “Slow-roasted toma-toes are like candy,” she says. “You can use them for almost anything, and they couldn’t be easier to make.” Anchovies, she says, go especially well with tomato-based dishes: “They add that whole umami thing.”

4 cups cherry tomatoes, divided 9 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Large pinch kosher salt plus more for seasoning # cup unseasoned dry breadcrumbs (preferably homemade) 1 Tbsp. $inely chopped fresh $lat-leaf parsley ! tsp. $inely chopped fresh thyme Large pinch dried oregano Freshly ground black pepper16 anchovy $illets, soaked, rinsed and $illeted 12 oz. spaghetti 2 garlic cloves, $inely chopped Small handful fresh basil leaves, roughly torn

Preheat oven to 200°. Place 2 cups tomatoes

in an 8x8x2" glass baking dish. Stir in 1 Tbsp.

oil and a large pinch of salt. Bake, stirring oc-

casionally, at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours

(the longer they bake, the sweeter and more

concentrated the !lavor). Set aside.

Increase oven temperature to 400°. Line

a small baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place breadcrumbs and herbs in a small bowl;

season with salt and pepper. Drizzle 1 Tbsp. oil

over; stir until mixture resembles damp sand.

Lay anchovies about #" apart on prepared

sheet. Evenly pack breadcrumb mixture over;

drizzle with 1 Tbsp. oil. Bake until golden

brown, 3–5 minutes; set anchovy oreganata

aside.

Cook spaghetti in a large pot of boiling

salted water, stirring occasionally, until tender

but still !irm to the bite. Drain, reserving 1 cup

pasta cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, place remaining 2 cups toma-

toes in a large bowl. Crush tomatoes with

your hands. Heat 4 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet

over medium-high heat. Add garlic; cook,

stirring, 30 seconds. Add crushed tomatoes

and a pinch of salt; cook, stirring occasionally,

until juices thicken, 6–7 minutes. Add roasted

tomatoes.

Add drained spaghetti to skillet; toss

to coat, adding reserved pasta water by

#-cupfuls if dry. Remove from heat; stir in

basil. Drizzle with remaining 2 Tbsp. oil.

Divide among bowls. Top each with # of the

anchovy oreganata.

(continued from page 1TK)

GU

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GU

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THE FANTASTIC

MR. AND MRS. HENDERSON

In England, Sunday lunch isn’t just a meal, it’s an institution. Nose-to-tail pioneer Fergus Henderson, who just opened London’s hot new St. John Hotel, teams with his wife,

Margot, to show us how to while away an afternoon in true British style

B Y C H R I S T I N E M U H L K E P H O T O G R A P H S B Y D I T T E I S A G E R

Fergus and Margot Henderson in their

Covent Garden kitchen. Basic S-hooks hold

everything from wrenches to trivets to a

clarinet-lesson schedule.

GU

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94 JUNE 201194 JUNE 2011

HOW TO EAT RADISHES AT THEIR PEAK

4 SERVINGS Eating both the radishes and their leaves is true nose-to-tail eat-ing, says Henderson.

Pile 16 to 20 scrubbed breakfast radishes with pert green leaves still at-tached onto a plate. Set out a bowl of coarse sea salt

and a bowl of slightly softened best qual-ity butter. Pick up a radish, spread a bit of butter on it, sprinkle with salt, and eat the radish, then place the leaves in a wbowl. Once the radishes are eaten, drizzle the leaves with Dijon Vinai-grette (see recipe), season to taste with salt and pepper, and enjoy as a salad.

But Fergus and Margot Henderson prefer to host their weekend lunch on Saturday, “because that way you can go on,” says Fergus, the chef and co-owner of the St. John restaurants in London. “There’s no fear for the next day.” Fearlessness is key: Accord-ing to Margot, the chef and partner of Arnold & Henderson and Rochelle Canteen, the secret to a successful party—besides lovely people, the odd ray of sunshine, and good food and wine—is a bit of chaos.

The Hendersons are masters of chaos, albeit of the most deli-cious sort. The dining rooms at St. John and St. John Bread & Wine are as stripped down as the ungarnished plates. (At the new St. John hotel and restaurant in the West End, Henderson cultivates a mood of comfort and succor—if Welsh rarebit is your idea of room-service bliss.) Yet the primal, indulgent nature of the food rouses guests to levels of cheekiness unseen elsewhere. This is the man who, a!er seeing Marcello Mastroianni suck the marrow from bones in La Grande Bou!e, realized that it was just the dish for the restaurant he would open with Trevor Gulliver in a former smokehouse. “The bones express the way I feel about food, which is that you should have to slightly wrestle with it,” he says. “It’s so lovely to celebrate bones when increasingly everyone else goes for "llet.” Since St. John opened in 1994, Fergus has

sought to honor the whole beast by serving every muscle and organ, setting o# a culinary movement that is still rippling like a plate of tripe across the globe.

Margot’s food also spurs bursts of enthusiasm: She and her partner, Melanie Arnold, converted a bicycle shed in a school-turned-studio o# Shoreditch High Street into the lunch spot of choice for London artists, as well as the launching pad for their sought-a!er catered events.

At the couple’s Covent Garden $at, which is "lled with friends’ art and the haphazard energy that having three children under 18 can bring, Biciclettas (a cocktail of Campari and white wine over ice) and St. John private-label Champagne start $owing before guests arrive. But with two professional cooks in the snug kitchen–slash–dining room, plus a menu of St. John’s greatest bits, the chaos is reserved for the table. Fergus and Margot set about picking and “disciplining” parsley (“just a few chops and you’re in charge,” Fergus says) to accompany the marrow bones and cleaning radishes, the leaves of which will be torn o# at the table and drizzled with mustardy vinaigrette—his idea of nose-to-tail vegetables. They roast tomatoes into sweet submission for the anchovy and Little Gem salad that, he says, saved his life when he was feeling “liverish” in Barcelona. (Dijon vinaigrette will be whisked into the pan with the tomatoes’ juices to become mysteriously more than the sum of its parts, “like a Whiskey Sour,” says Fergus.) Finally, they cook spinach to get whizzed into “gunge” and sear a handsome beef sirloin on the (electric) range before a blast in the oven.

Asked how he knows when the meat

A SUNDAY ROAST IS A

BRITISH TRADITION.

A whole cheese adds splendor, especially when served with raisin loaf. The afternoon starts simply with radishes, butter, and salt.

Tossing the An-chovy, Little Gem, and Tomato Salad by hand ensures full coverage.

(continued on page TK)

F E R G U S I S M N O . 1

Dis·ci·pline \di-se-plen\ v.: to roughly chop

“There’s a point where you’ve told parsley you’re in charge.

You haven’t defeated it; you’ve disciplined it.”

GU

TTER

GU

TTER

96 JUNE 201196 JUNE 2011

Fergus isn’t a fan of the big slice: “Thin says to meat, ‘Ha! We’re in charge now. You’re cooked for my supper.’!” Opposite: Sirloin and spinach “gunge.”

JUNE 2011 97


Gunge \gunj\ v., n.: to purée, such as spinach

“My mom gunged, and we followed

in her gunge footsteps.”

A bone-in joint of meat is the usual centerpiece of a Sunday roast. But Fergus Henderson’s boneless sirloin is so delicious and easy to cook that the tradition deserves to be updated. His tips for a flawless roast:

1. Fat is essential: It’s what bastes the meat as it cooks. Ask your butcher for a top sirloin or strip loin roast with a nice fat cap.

2. A shower of coarse gray sea salt and ground pepper before searing creates a flavorful crust. (“But watch out for smoke alarms,” says Margot.)

3. Let it rest in peace for 15 minutes before slicing.

HOW TO MAKE

A PERFECT

ROAST BEAST

GU

TTER

GU

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JUNE 2011 99


Szoosh \jooje\ n.: fancy design

“There’s no szoosh at home and no szoosh at work. I’m sans szoosh.”

98 JUNE 201198 JUNE 2011

If anything’s better than butter, it’s roasted bone marrow, a formerly forgotten dish that Fergus Henderson helped popu-larize on menus around the world. It couldn’t be simpler to make at home:

1. Cook veal or beef bones in a hot oven just until the fat becomes wobbly (too liquid and you’ll lose it).

2. A humble parsley salad provides the ideal balance, says Fergus: “It’s green and happy and healthy. It works in a cheeky duo.”

3. Scooping out the marrow is easier with a slender marrow spoon, available on eBay and amazon.com.

GOOD BONES

Saturday lunchers, from left: Douglas Stewart, Fergus Henderson, Tanya Thompson, Pauline Daly, and Melanie Arnold.

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JUNE 2011 101 100 JUNE 2011

HOW TO EAT RADISHES

AT THEIR PEAK

4 SERVINGS Eating both the radishes and their leaves is true whole-vegetable dining, says Henderson.

Pile 16–20 scrubbed French breakfast radishes with pert green leaves still attached onto a plate. Set out a bowl of coarse sea salt and a dish of slightly soft-ened best-quality butter. Pick up a radish, spread a bit of butter on it, sprinkle with salt, and eat the radish. Place the leaves in a bowl. Drizzle the leaves with ! cup Dijon Vinaigrette (see recipe), season to taste with salt and pepper, and enjoy as a salad.

DIJON VINAIGRETTE

MAKES ABOUT ! CUP

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 garlic clove, finely minced ! cup extra-virgin olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

The chocolate ice cream is so rich, it doesn’t melt—it just gets tru!ley.Margot Henderson and "ilm producer Piers Thompson.

Whisk lemon juice, Dijon mustard, vinegar, and garlic in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. DO AHEAD: Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. Return to room temperature before using.

ANCHOVY, LITTLE GEM,

AND TOMATO SALAD

4 SERVINGS Little Gem, a lettuce that both looks and tastes like a cross between baby romaine and a small head of butter lettuce, can be found at farmers’ markets. If unavailable, substitute hearts of romaine. (For more about curly parsley, see Prep School, page TK.)

4 ripe tomatoes on the vine (about 1"# lb.), stemmed, halved lengthwise Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1"! Tbsp. olive oil # cup Dijon Vinaigrette (see recipe) 12 whole marinated white anchovy $illets (boquerones), drained 1 head Little Gem lettuce (about 4 oz.), leaves separated 3 Tbsp. $inely chopped fresh curly parsley

INGREDIENT INFO: Marinated white anchovies (also called boquerones) can be found at specialty foods stores and at tienda.com.

Preheat oven to 400°. Place tomatoes in an 8x8x2" glass baking dish. Season with salt and pepper, then drizzle with oil. Roast tomatoes until softened, about 30 minutes. Let cool. Transfer tomatoes to a large bowl, leaving juices behind. Pour vinaigrette into baking dish and whisk into the tomato juices to blend.

Add anchovies and lettuce to bowl with tomatoes. Drizzle vinaigrette over. Toss salad to coat (it’s best if you use your hands). Season salad to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle parsley over and serve.

ROAST BONE MARROW WITH

PARSLEY SALAD

4 SERVINGS This classic St. John dish uses veal bones for a more delicate texture! and flavor. (“They’ve got youth on their side,” says Fergus.) Ask your butcher for! center-cut bones: You don’t want the ends. When it comes to salt, Fergus uses coarse gray sea salt here because it maintains its crunch atop the succulent marrow.

8 3"–4"-long pieces veal marrow bones 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 2 small shallots, thinly sliced (about # cup) 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

is done, Fergus pushes up his round glasses and says, “It’s sort of Jedi Knight, cooking meat. It’s—you know Star Wars, the "rst one? Luke Skywalker’s $ying down the valley of the Death Star, shooting his missiles, and he hears this voice: ‘Luke, put away your sights. Feel the Force.’ So he puts away his sights. Feels the Force. Shoots his missile and blows up the Death Star. The same way when you’re cooking: You should feel the Force and be a Jedi Knight.”

As Fergus puts the Force-felt hunk of meat back onto the counter and tents it with foil, he says, “Now it’s resting happily, having an emotional moment.”

When friends and their dogs trickle in from their respective galleries and restaurants, lunch is served family style. “We’re family, a!er all,” says Fergus. The laughter and loud proclama-tions of deliciousness start as soon as the marrow bones hit the table and are sustained through the cheese course—an entire wheel from nearby Neal’s Yard Dairy, which lends a certain splen-dor, says Margot. (The accompanying raisin bread was baked at the new St. John Bakery, located in an interesting wholesale food complex in Bermondsey; Saturday’s custard-doughnut sale is de"nitely worth the trip.) Dessert is a single scoop of the dense, rich chocolate ice cream that St. John’s pastry chefs spent years perfecting. (The secret: caramel swirled into the "nished base.) By four o’clock, the ice cream has so!ened to a tru%e-like state as a bottle of La Vieille Prune, a kicky eau-de-vie, is brought out. “Oh, it’s the Prune!” Margot exclaims, foreshadowing the a!er-noon’s segue into evening. Another Saturday lunch without fear.

(continued from page TK)FERGUS

WORLD

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. drained capers Coarse gray sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 !"-thick slices rustic white bread, toasted

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

4 long, thin spoons

Preheat oven to 450°. Place bones, wider cut side down, in an ovenproof skillet or roasting pan. Roast bones until marrow is soft and begins to separate from bone but before it begins to melt, 15–20 minutes, depending on thickness of bones.

Meanwhile, toss parsley, shallots, oil, lemon juice, and capers in a medium bowl to coat. Season salad to taste with gray sea salt and pepper.

Divide marrow bones and salad among plates. Serve with toast and gray sea salt. Using a long, thin spoon, scoop marrow onto toast, top with salad, and garnish with a pinch or two of salt.

ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF

4 SERVINGS A generous sprinkling of gray sea salt provides a genuine crust. (For more on Fergus’s salt philosophy, see Prep School, page TK.) Slicing the meat against the grain keeps it juicy.

1 2-lb. 3"–4"-thick top sirloin or strip loin roast Gray sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. olive oil

Preheat oven to 425°. Season roast generously with gray sea salt and pepper. Heat oil in an ovenproof skillet or a small roasting pan set over high heat. Add roast to skillet and brown on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer skillet to oven and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into center of roast registers 120° for medium-rare, 40–50 minutes. Tent with foil; let rest 15 minutes. Thinly slice roast. Arrange on a platter and sprinkle with additional gray sea salt. Serve with Spinach Gunge alongside (see recipe).

SPINACH GUNGE

4 SERVINGS A misleading name for such a luscious, creamy dish. This creamed spinach gunges up quite nicely.

% cup (! stick) unsalted butter 2 lb. fresh spinach, stemmed 1"! cups (lightly packed) grated Pecorino, Parmesan, or Manchego cheese (about 3 oz.) % cup crème fraîche

For a slideshow of the Hendersons’ home and their guide to London (where they eat, drink, shop, and see art), plus a recipe for Margot’s Orange Marmalade and St. John Bakery Raisin Loaf, go to bonappetit.com /go/hendersons

1 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Working in 4 batches, add spinach to pot, tossing to wilt between batches. Stir in cheese, crème fraîche, and mustard. Using an immersion blender, regular blender, or food processor, purée spinach mixture until very smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Plan to start making this tru"le-rich ice cream #ive days before you serve it, and you’ll be rewarded for the waiting. It took the chefs at St. John years to arrive at this recipe. We’re glad they did.

7 oz. dark chocolate (70% to 75% cacao), finely chopped 2 cups plus 2 Tbsp. whole milk # cup unsweetened cocoa powder 6 large egg yolks 13 Tbsp. sugar, divided % cup heavy whipping cream

Place chocolate in a medium metal bowl. Set bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Stir chocolate until melted and smooth. Set melted chocolate aside; let cool slightly.

Whisk milk and cocoa powder in a medium heavy saucepan over medium heat until mixture begins to boil; set aside.

Using an electric mixer, beat egg yolks and 7 Tbsp. sugar in another medium bowl until very thick ribbons form, about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually add hot milk mixture to egg yolk mixture. Return mixture to saucepan. Add melted chocolate and whisk to blend. Stir over low heat until slightly thickened and an instant-read thermometer registers 175°, about 5 minutes. Transfer chocolate custard to a large bowl and place over another large bowl of ice water. Stir until chocolate custard is cool.

Bring remaining 6 Tbsp. sugar and 2 Tbsp. water to a boil in a small heavy, deep saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Boil, occasionally swirling pan and brushing down sides with a wet pastry brush (do not stir), until a dark amber color forms, about 5 minutes. Gradually whisk in cream (mixture will bubble vigorously). Whisk caramel into chocolate custard. Strain into a large con-tainer; cover and chill for 2 days.

Process custard in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to another container; freeze for 3 days before eating. DO AHEAD: Ice cream can be made 3 days ahead. Keep frozen. RE

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WHEN YOU’VE GOT A BUSHEL OF SWEET CORN, A COOLER OF ICED BEER, AND A FIERY GRILL, WHO NEEDS A KITCHEN? WE SURE DON’T. HERE ARE OUR HARDLY SCIENTIFIC, THOROUGHLY OPINIONATED RULES FOR COOKING IN THE TASTIEST OF SEASONS

IT WAS A SIMPLE query posed to the sta! of Bon Appétit back on a snowy February day: How do you cook in the summer? We were essentially asking: Tell me everything you believe in and…wait, hello? Why do you have that dreamy look on your face? Because what March is to college hoops fans and September is to the fashion crowd,

these next few months are to the food-obsessed, particularly those here at BA. We wait all year for summer, when the market is exploding; when we can stand next to a hot grill, cold drink in hand, and feel that all is right with the world. We assume you feel this way, too. So what follows is a summary—okay, a manifesto—of 21

rules, philosophies, and, of course, recipes that each illustrate one of Bon Appétit’s central tenets of summer cooking. Twenty-one may seem like a lot during the season when the most important rule should probably be Relax the Rules. But we want to make sure you optimize every minute. That’s what we’ll be doing, too.

THE FIRST LAW OF SUMMER EATING: While we can’t drill down too deep on this data-wise, it’s hard to contest the fact that food tastes better when you eat it outside, preferably using your hands.

NO.

1

LET’S TAKE OUTSIDE!ITA SUMMER

COOKING MANIFESTO

JUNE 2011 4

IT’S IMPORTANT TO EMBRACE LAZINESS. When it comes to the behemoths of the summer market (corn, tomatoes, peaches, watermelon), we encourage you to do nothing. Don’t go drizzling an aged balsamic vinegar over your heirloom Mr. Stripey. A ripe tomato doesn’t need anything but salt and extra-virgin olive oil. (And it might not even need the oil.) Don’t shave watermelon into see-through slivers and toss it with feta and basil. (Just cut it into a giant wedge and eat it.) Save those sous vide short ribs for parka weather, when you’re down to root vegetables and your dinner needs a little more human intervention. The goal right now is to be as low-key as possible.

3 SPEAKING OF LAZY: DON’T EVEN BOTHER COOKING THAT CORN. If it’s sweet enough, all you have to do is shuck it, cut the kernels o! the cob, toss with lime juice, olive oil, cilantro, and salt and pepper. (No one’s going to complain if you throw in cherry tomatoes or avocado.)

SPECIAL SAUCE

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

! cup mayonnaise2 Tbsp. ketchup1 Tbsp. "inely grated onion1 Tbsp. sweet relish or 1 Tbsp. dill pickle relish2 tsp. adobo sauce from canned chipotle chiles in adobo# tsp. celery salt# tsp. kosher salt

Combine ingredients in a medium bowl and serve with burgers. Earn bonus points by bringing a jar to the next cookout.

DRY RUB

MAKES ABOUT $ CUP

2 tsp. black peppercorns

2 tsp. yellow mustard seeds

1 tsp. cumin seeds

3 Tbsp. paprika

2 Tbsp. brown sugar

2 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. celery seeds

1 tsp. garlic powder

! tsp. cayenne pepper

Stir peppercorns, mustard seeds, and cumin seeds in a small skillet over medium heat until toasted, about 2 minutes. Let cool. Add to a spice grinder with remaining ingredients and pulse until "inely ground.

Store in an airtight container for up to 3 months. For the Memphis-style ribs recipe, go to bonappetit.com/ribs.

NO.

2

NO.

4

GO AHEAD, RUB IT IN. There is almost no piece of meat—except for a big, fat, expensive rib eye or porterhouse—that cannot be improved by a good dry rub. It’s quick to assemble yet will pay you back in smoky dividends all summer long. Here’s our go-to:

IF YOU PLANTED IT, RAISED IT, OR HARVESTED IT—EVEN IF IT’S JUST A TWIG OF THYME—IT’S GOING TO TASTE BETTER THAN IF YOU’D BOUGHT IT.

NO.

6

No one—not Alice Waters, not that Danish guy whose place was voted Best Restaurant in the World, maybe not even God. Put a few slices of the juiciest tomato you can "ind on your favorite toasted bread with mayo, a sprinkle of sea salt, and a couple of grinds of pepper. Eat open-face.

NO ONE IS GOING TO

IMPROVE UPON THE TOMATO SANDWICH.

NO.

7

TRY THIS

Grill a ripe peach, cut side down, and top with vanilla ice

cream.

* OK, "ine. Special Sauce is kinda cool, too

NO.

5

THE ONLY THING A GRILLED BURGER NEEDS IS AMERICAN CHEESE.PERIOD.*

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11 SUCCUMB TO THE GREEK MARRIAGE OF OLIVE OIL AND LEMON JUICE. Ladolemono, whisked together with its one-to-one acid-to-oil ratio (as opposed to the usual one-to-three), is a classic Greek vinaigrette that gives a !lash of brightness to grilled octopus, shrimp, squid, or the smoky, crispy skin of a whole branzino. TO MAKE: Whisk together ! cup fresh lemon juice and ! cup extra-virgin olive oil. Whisk in kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. MAKES ! CUP.

2–4 SERVINGS

2 whole bone-in branzino, cleaned

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

" cup ladolemono (see recipe)

1 Tbsp. dried oregano, preferably Greek

Prepare a grill to medium-high heat. Brush !ish with oil and season skin and cavity with salt and pepper. Grill !ish, turning once, until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a platter, drizzle with ladolemono, crumble oregano over, and serve.

GRILLED BRANZINO WITH LADOLEMONO

There’s nothing wrong with that 42,000-BTU rotisserie-smoker-grill, but you should know that when you use it, you’re not grilling. You’re cooking outside. If you want that authentic smokiness or a crispy char on your aged strip steak, you’re go-ing to need to build a !ire. All you’ll need to get it started are…

2 sheets of newspaper to start that

chimney

15 A GRILL IS ALSO A STOVE. Think about it: That big Weber is really just one big burner. Some areas give o" high heat, others low heat. So while your steak sizzles, slap down a cast-iron pan with some olive oil, onions, and peppers in it, and you’ve just opened up the possibilities of summer.

NO DISH YOU MAKE BETWEEN JUNE AND SEPTEMBER SHOULD NEED TO BE SERVED “PIPING HOT.”

EVERYTHING TASTES BETTER WITH CHILES AND LIME.

This combo makes everything taste brighter and fresher. Mix 1 Tbsp. minced serrano chile or jalapeño (and a few of the seeds, depending on your tolerance for heat) with the juice from one lime, then pour onto a salad of roasted or fresh corn, add to your most predictable coleslaw, or sprinkle over sushi-grade !ish or shell!ish.

Alain Delon and Brigitte Bardot,

Saint-Tropez, 1968

A FEW THINGS TO AVOID WHEN ENTERTAINING IN THE SUMMER: FORMAL CENTERPIECES, HOT OVENS, SHIRTS.

10 ...AND AS LONG AS WE’RE TALKING ABOUT MAGIC COMBINATIONS, when it comes to certain summery pairings, one plus one can be so much greater than two.

Z U C C H I N I M I N T M E L O N S A L T G I N G E R L E M O N A D E

13 YOU’VE GOT THE ROSÉ ON ICE, RIGHT? We like a good Grüner Veltliner, we enjoy an under-oaked Chardonnay, and Sancerre is lovely with grilled !ish. But our favorite summer wine? Rosé. It’s so versatile, so refreshing, and so pretty in a short water glass.

Three highly drinkable values:

1. San Lorenzo Sirio Cerasuolo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the Adriatic coast ($5)

2. Domaine de Fenouillet Côtes du Ventoux Rosé ($13) from the southern Rhône Valley

3. Castello di Ama Rosato ($15) from Tuscany

BUY A CHARCOAL GRILL.

1 bag of hardwood charcoal

1 charcoal chimney (the

one at your local hardware

store will do)

1 classic Weber kettle grill

(a 22.5" will comfortably

grill for a family of four)

Total cost? Somewhere between $120 and $200. Which, in the end, is a small price to pay for the real thing.

NO.

12

NO.

14NO.

8

NO.

9

A S U M M E R


JUNE 2011 8

NO.

20IF YOU’RE THROWING A PARTY, CATER TO THE KIDS AT DESSERT TIME…EVEN IF THERE ARE NO KIDS. There is no easier way to make people (especially the grown-up kind) happy than passing around pints of ice cream with a scoop and a plate of sugar cones. Just make sure you spring for the good stu!. (Sprinkles optional.)

NO.

21

NO.

19

YOU DON’T NEED MUCH

We promise you: that 2-in-1 BBQ brush that dispenses sauce will end up in the kitchen-equipment graveyard, but these essential tools of summer never will.

GRILL TOOLS

You want long, strong tongs; a long, strong metal spatula; and a good grill brush. Rosle

3-piece barbecue set, $105;

rosleusa.com

S A L A D S P I N N E R

Freshly snipped greens mean one thing: You’re going to need to give those leaves a thorough washing. Oxo salad spinner,

$30; oxo.com

C O L E M A N C O O L E R

To make sure your

Rule No. 13s are chilled,

of course! For more

coolers, see page TK.

54-qt. stainless-steel cooler,

$220; coleman.com

G R I L L B A S K E T

The best way to keep your asparagus, skinny scallions, shrimp, and marshmallows from falling to a smoky death. Simply Grilling nonstick

grilling basket, $20; cuisinart

.com, or pick one up at your

local hardware store

While we’re banning things, how about we all agree to leave the following Sunday-BBQ standards in the last century: cold fusilli salad with grilled vegetables; plain grilled chicken breasts; cheese platters going soft in the sun; crudités and dip. And no more skewers threaded with di!erent ingredients requiring di!erent cooking times. Those kebabs are always disasters. Always.

16 YOU SHOULD NEVER BE WITHOUT A JAR OF SALSA VERDE. It’s the ketchup of summer. Spoon it on grilled lamb or pork chops, grilled eggplant or sword"ish.

SALSA VERDE

MAKES 1! CUPS

1 garlic clove, chopped6 oil-packed anchovy "illets, chopped (optional)1! Tbsp. capers, rinsed and chopped1 Fresno chile or red jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, minced4 cups loosely packed fresh "lat-leaf parsley leaves, "inely chopped2 cups loosely packed fresh mint leaves, "inely chopped1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, "inely chopped1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt (optional)

Combine garlic, anchovies, capers, and chile in a mortar or food processor. Pound with a pestle or process until a chunky paste forms. Add herbs and stir to combine. Remove pestle or transfer paste to a bowl. Using a fork, slowly whisk in oil to make sauce. Season to taste with salt, if desired. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes while "lavors meld. DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made 1 week ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature and stir before serving.

Nobody ever regretted having four too many steaks, BBQ chicken legs, lamb burgers, or pork bellies left over from a Sunday barbecue. This rule does not apply to "ish: no one’s gonna touch a day-old piece of mackerel.

WHEN IT COMES TO MEAT, COOK MORE THAN YOU NEED.

C O L D F U S I L L I S A L A D

P O R T O B E L L O

NO.

17LET’S PLEASE NEVER GRILL PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS

AGAIN.

SERVE THIS

A mix of ice creams and sorbets will

satisfy everyone’s craving (and diet).

18 SIMPLE SYRUP IS LIQUID GOLD. As indispensable to your summer culinary life as Rule No. 14. In a saucepan, stir together 1! cups sugar and 1! cups water over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Let cool, then strain, cover, and chill for 2 hours. (It will keep for 2 weeks.) To 2.0 it, bring to a simmer with grated peeled fresh ginger, basil leaves (yes, we used purple basil here), lavender, or mint and let steep for 30 minutes. Strain before pouring into a jar. Add to Gin and Tonics, iced tea, lemonade, or sorbet and granita bases.

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Bon App June 2011

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