Private Walk Greater Blue Mountains National Park-Blue Mountains
National Park – Giants Stairway returning via Furber Steps - Monday
11th January 2021
The group. Left to right, Yidan, Scott, Michael, John C, John F,
Kelvin, William and Brian. Photo: by a passer- by.
Title
Giants Stairway – Furber Stairs
Date
Monday 11th January 2021
Leader
Brian Fox.
Maps, etc.
Department of Lands topographic map, Katoomba, 8930- 1S,
1:25,000, Third edition GPS setting WGS 84.
Activity
/description and route
Park at the old Kiosk on Cliff Drive. Walk to Echo Point, then
descend the Giant Stairway to the Dardenelles Pass walking, then
west under the Three Sisters and join the Federal Pass Track to
Furber Steps, and hence back to the vehicles.
Gear issues
First aid kit, PLB, GPS, 1 litre of water, electrolytes, maps,
compass, block out, and hat.
Meeting point
0830 at the old kiosk, Cliff Drive.
Transport
Private vehicles
Comments
This is a pleasant day out.
The Party
Brian Fox, leader, John Fox, Kelvin Knox, Michael Keats, Yidan
Saladine, Scott Marshall, John Cooper and William Howard. 8.
The Weather
A glorious still day with a few, light high level scattered
clouds. Temperature range 14 to 24 degrees C.
Background Notes
1 Local Place names.
In the distance of the walk, less than 4 km there are over 80
named localities. To include them here would be writing a book. For
readers interested please consult Fox, Brian, Keats, Michael and
Fox, John, Blue Mountains Geographical Encyclopaedia, 2018.
2 Track Notes 3 February 20
These notes have been prepared for the record. The whole walk
was on track and due to the Corona virus scare, which has decimated
international tourism, the normally crowded walkways were virtually
empty. There was something quite eerie to be at Echo Point and have
the location completely to ourselves.
The Jamison Valley. Mount Solitary on LHS, Ruined Castle centre
and Narrow Neck on RHS
Photo: Yidan Saladine.
The walk was also an opportunity to assess the bushfire damage
and how long it is likely to be before we can venture down into the
Jamison Valley to continue our archaeological work at Ruined
Castle.
The walk was designed as a loop starting and ending at the Old
Katoomba Kiosk (closed). The Prince Henry Cliff Walk is crowded
with historic place names and it seems every few metres there is a
lookout or point with a name on it. Brin’s encyclopaedic memory was
challenged at times, but he always came up trumps.
Track Notes
We set off from the Old Kiosk, now refurbished but yet to open,
GR 502 649 at 0830. Th Kedumba River was soon crossed. It was
flowing strongly. Our first stop was at GR 503 647 where we stopped
to gaze into Harrys Amphitheatre[footnoteRef:1]. A few metres on
Withes Leap[footnoteRef:2] was in full spate. [1: Harrys
Amphitheatre1 is a prominent semi-circular escarpment in Katoomba,
with Katoomba Falls in the centre. Named by Philip Hammon on the 22
June 2001, after his father Henry James (Harry) Hammon (1911-2000).
Name submitted to Geographical Names Board by Brian Fox and
approved; Gazette No. 158, 19 October 2001. The Scenic Skyway
cables cross this amphitheatre. The associated Scenic Railway has
operated as a tourist venture from the early 1930s, when it was
called The Mountain Devil. The Skyway has operated from the later
part of 1958. The name honours Harry Hammon’s contribution to this
world famous tourist destination. K 502 648.] [2: Witches Leap2 is
located below the western side of Reids Plateau, Katoomba. In most
early references, this name refers to a glen, gully or location,
even though the word ‘leap’ is an old Scottish word for waterfall.
Accessed from Cliff Drive and the Round Walk. Also spelled as The
Witches Leap, or The Witch's Leap. Ref: Russell, J. The Pictorial
Guide to the Blue Mountains, Katoomba Map, 1882 records, “The
Witch’s (sic) Leap is easily found by the winding path which leads
to the foot of the fall, with perpendicular cliffs on each side
towering up to a height of 150 feet; and here will be seen one of
the prettiest dells or gullies of the mountains.” Historian John
Low suggests the origin of the name may have come from the Scottish
miners working in John North’s coal mine, located below the cliff
line, who were reminded of the folklore tale of two local
‘carlines’ (witches), who would meet of an evening at the edge of
the village of Carlops and leap between two rock outcrops in a kind
of aerial dance. Also called Fern Glen, Katoomba. K 501 648.]
Progressing along the pathway a lookout provided a stunning view
of the Jamison Valley, All the visual reminders of the 2019
bushfires now virtually gone, GR 504 6345, 0858. By 0913 we had
reached Lady Darleys Lookout[footnoteRef:3] again with spectacular
views, GR 507 645. [3: Lady Darleys Lookout1 is on the Prince Henry
Cliff Walk between Allambie Lookout and Kedumba View. This lookout
has views towards Mount Solitary, Ruined Castle and the Scenic
Railway. It is accessed via Katoomba Park or Echo Point, Katoomba.
Named after Lucy Forest Darley née Brown (1839-1913), wife of Sir
Frederick Darley, who administered the Colony of NSW in 1893, 1895,
1899, 1900-1902. The Darleys had Lilianfels built in 1899, and as
well they owned 33ac of land in this area. Ref: The Mountaineer, 24
December 1908, p. 3 records, “If the trustees have no objection I
(Frederick Darley) would like them to perpetuate the name Lady
Darley and I gave the spot.” Subdivision plan for auction,
Lilianfels Park, 9 January 1909. Current 2017 signage is spelled as
Lady Darley Lookout. K 507 645.
]
Mitrasacme polymorpha
Photo: Yidan Saladine
The landslide that wiped out the Golden Stairs as seen from the
cliff walk near Echo Point. Photo: Scott MarshallComment by Michael
Keats:
From near this look out we had a good view of a section of the
Causeway[footnoteRef:4] on Narrow Neck and in particular the havoc
wrought by a landslide (28 July 2020) which has swept away part of
the Golden Stairs[footnoteRef:5] access to the Jamison Valley and
closed the walking track to Ruined Castle, (Federal Pass). [4:
Causeway, The3 is another name for the First Narrow Neck
constriction on Narrow Neck Plateau, Katoomba. Ref: Parish of
Megalong, 9th edition, 30 September 1937. The Bushwalker, Vol. 1,
1937, p. 24. Also called First Narrow Neck. K 491 637.] [5: Golden
Stairs.1 The top of the stairs is accessed via Glenraphael Drive,
2km from the intersection of Cliff Drive, Narrow Neck Plateau. The
stairs descend to join the Federal Pass and/or the Ruined Castle
Walking Tracks, Katoomba. Named after the hymn entitled, ‘Climbing
up the Golden Stair’. Three verses and a chorus by Emma
Booth-Tucker (1860-1903). The hymn was said to be sung by Salvation
Army Officers when returning home after visiting miners at the
Ruined Castle. "O I'm climbing up the golden stair to Glory, O I'm
climbing with my golden crown before me, I am climbing in the
light, I am climbing day and night, I shall shout with all my might
when I get there! O I'm climbing up the golden stair to Glory, O
I'm climbing with my golden crown before me, I am climbing in the
light, I am climbing day and night, I am climbing up the golden
stair!" Ref: Salvation Army Song Book. Illustrated Sydney News, 3
June 1893, p. 19 records, “The mines are reached from Narrow Neck
by a scratch in the side of the mountains known as the Golden
Stairs. It is in some places scarcely more than twelve inches in
width.” K 482 637. NPWS Director of Blue Mountains Park Operations,
David Crust, said extremely heavy rain caused the landslide on the
Golden Stairs overnight on Tuesday the 28th of July.The
landslide has cut access to the Golden Stairs from Narrow Neck,
Mount Solitary and Federal Pass, near Katoomba. The landslide has
left large amounts of debris including soil, rocks and trees above
and below the Golden Stairs and Federal Pass.Mr Crust said,
“Unfortunately we’re facing a long closure of many months to enable
us to clear the landslide and make the track safe again.“There’s
still a risk of further landslides along the track which will have
to be assessed before we can begin work.“The first thing will be
for the NPWS to engage geotechnical engineers to assess the damage
and advise us how to deal with the remaining hazards and start
re-building the track.”“The landslide at the Golden Stairs also
closes Federal Pass Walking Track from Scenic World and inhibits
access from Ruined Castle and Mount Solitary extending the closures
which are still in place after the recent bush fires.It is vital
people adhere to these closures as the tracks are completely
blocked and there is significant risk of further landslides and
rockfall.”
]
How we will see wildlife in the future. A sculpture of the
common Blue Tongue Lizard, (Tiliqua scincoides) Photo: Yidan
Saladine
A section of the Giants Stairway near the top. A section of the
Kings Tableland forms the horizon. The Eastern Col of Mount
Solitary is just visible. Photo: Yidan Saladine
At 0931 we reached the improved and upgraded Echo Point
precinct. The area of hard surface is huge but designed to cope
with many bus loads of tourists each day. The new peripheral walk
ways are over engineered and look as though they could support a
15storey building. If this is tourism, then I do not like it.
Signage that covers our walk route. Photo: Yidan Saladine
A short deviation was made to visit the Prince of Wales Lookout
where nearby we spied some small white flowers decorating a damp
rock face. These are probably MItrasacme polymorpha. 0935, GR 511
641.
By 1011 we had passed the worst of the concrete jungle and
arrived at the ironstone arch that provides an entrance to a
viewing platform for the Three Sisters and the track head for the
Giants Stairway
It was decided to have morning tea here[footnoteRef:6]
[footnoteRef:7], 1011 to 1022, GR 513 639. Before morning tea, we
crossed the bridge to the first sister and inspected Honeymoon
Cave[footnoteRef:8] [6: Giant Stairway is the stairway leading from
the cliff top adjoining The Three Sisters down the escarpment to
link up to the Dardanelles Pass and the Federal Pass Walking
Tracks, Katoomba. There are just under 1000 steps from the base to
car park. The idea was conceived by James McKay, a municipal
ranger, in 1914. Katoomba Council approved the idea in 1916. The
stairway was officially opened 3pm Saturday 1 October 1932 by The
Hon. Bertram Sydney Barnsdale Stevens, Premier of NSW (1932-1939).
Walter Botting, another ranger, also played a significant role,
along with William Carey Soper, a local real estate agent and
Alderman, who helped to promote the stairway. Ref: Lithgow Mercury,
3 October 1932, p. 2. Cranney, William. Tourist Map of Katoomba and
Leura, 1933. In a phone call interview with the late Ben Esgate,
October 1998, he recalled his father Reubin Esgate worked with
James McKay on the planning of the Giant Stairway prior to WWI.
Also known as The Three Sisters Stairway. K 513 641.] [7: Three
Sisters, The1 are three prominent rocky pinnacles, 922, 918 and 906
metres high at the edge of the escarpment east of Echo Point,
Katoomba. The Sydney Morning Herald, 30 May 1931, p. 9 records a
story that 16 year old Patricia Stone wrote about an Aboriginal
legend and calling the three sisters, 'Wimalah', 'Meeni' and
'Gunedoo.' Abseiling and rock climbing were very popular activities
on the middle sister until commercial groups were banned by the
NPWS when this area was included in the Blue Mountains National
Park in 1998. Ref: Sydney Morning Herald, 27 April 1880, p. 7
records, "Triasaxa point… It is commonly termed The three Sisters."
Previously called Tria Saxa Point. K 512 639.] [8: Echo Point
Lookout3 is an overhanging cave within the first of The Three
Sisters, Katoomba. A seat within this cave had the name Echo Point
Lookout. Echo Point could be seen from this vantage point. Ref: The
Rose Series postcard, dated August 1938. This cave has also been
referred to as Honeymoon Cave, Honeymoon Lookout, Lovers Retreat,
The Three Sisters Lookout and Spooners Cave. K 512 640.]
Morning tea over it was time to make the descent. The stairway
was busy and parties descending, and ascending were passed at
various small, ‘off the stairs’ platforms. The base was reached at
1035. After a short refreshment break, we began walking the
Dardanelles Pass[footnoteRef:9] (a walking track) towards the
Furber Stairs. [9: Dardanelles Pass1 commences at Leura Forest and
follows the base of the cliff line above the Federal Pass, and
joins the Federal Pass below The Three Sisters and connects with
the Giant Stairway, Katoomba. This track commemorates the ANZACs at
Gallipoli during WWI. Dardanelles Pass was constructed by ranger
Jim McKay and others in 1915. Ref: Lithgow Mercury, 27 August 1915,
p. 4 records, “The Dardanelles Deviation.” Sketch Map Katoomba and
Leura, 1919 records, “The Dardanelles.” K 516 649 to 513 638.]
Junction of the Dardanelles Track and Federal Pass. Photo:
Yidansaladine
Furber Stairs. Photo: Yidan Saladine
The undulating walk was pleasant and at 1051 we arrived at the
junction of the Dardanelles Pass with Federal Pass, GR 511 635.
Foot traffic now increased in both directions and we were lucky at
1106 to encounter a Lyrebird working his way through his
repertoire. We remained spellbound and aurally entertained for
nearly five minutes. Some members of the group recorded the
performance.
Cooks Crossing[footnoteRef:10] was next visited on our journey.
The water flow was melodic. and we spent a little time just
enjoying it all. Nearby is the big Turpentine Tree, sadly fenced
off as the viewing platform requires repair. [10: Cooks Crossing2
refers to the footbridge under which the Kedumba River flows. This
is also the base of Katoomba Falls and part of the Federal Pass
Walking Track. Named after Sir Joseph Cook (1860-1947), Prime
Minister of Australia, 24 June 1913 to 17 September 1914. Cook at
the time this feature was named was the Minister for Mines and
Agriculture. Ref: The Mountaineer Tourists' Guide to the Blue
Mountains, 1903, p. 73. The Mountaineer, 16 September 1904, p. 3
records, “The path leads onto a bridge called Cook’s Crossing.” K
502 646.]
The Furber Stairs junction was reached at 1151, GR 500 644.
Witches Leap. Photo: Yidan Saladine
Here the party split with Kel, Foxy, William and I opting to
ascend vis the Scenic Railway while the others chose the
stairs.
The Scenic Railway journey is now a theatrical experience; the
seats can be inclined to enhance the thrill factor; there is music
from Raiders of the Lost Ark being played as the ascent starts and
you enter the tunnel section. The boarding process is designed for
loading and unloading a full ride in very short time. It is a money
making machine and of course the exit is convoluted through the
ubiquitous gift shop and eateries and restaurant. …
After exiting we visited a reproduction Steam Clock. The whole
show has a Disneyland feel. We then walked back to the cars and
arrived 1234 just as the walkers did. Lunch was taken in the picnic
area adjoining the Old Kiosk.
Coal Mine adit, near Furber Steps on Federal Pass. Photo: Yidan
Saladine
Michael Keats
Bushexplorers
13th January 2021
PW Giants Stairway to Furber Stairs 110121
2