Birdtour Asia Lesser Sundas 2015 Reports/Birdtour Asia Lesser...The Lesser Sundas once again delivered a fascinating tour across the islands of Sumba, Roti, Timor, Flores and Komodo,
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The Lesser Sundas once again delivered a fascinating tour across the islands of Sumba, Roti, Timor, Flores and Komodo, with amazing sets of island endemics on each. We began on Sumba with a clean sweep of endemics including a trio of smart night-birds; Little Sumba and Sumba Boobook, and Mees’s Nightjar, the extremely rare Orange-crested Cockatoo, a fortunate sighting of Sumba Green Pigeon, three unimaginatively named flycatchers; Sumba, Sumba Jungle-, and Sumba Brown, Chestnut-backed Thrush, Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, our first Elegant Pitta, Sumba Buttonquail, and many more. A change of islands bought us to the scarcely explored island of Roti where in addition to our first ‘Timor endemics’ we found the fascinating ‘Roti Leaf Warbler’, ‘Roti Myzomela’ and the magnificent ‘Roti Boobook’ besides tricky species like Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon, Timor Black Pigeon and Olive-shouldered Parrot. Back on Timor proper we found all our desired endemics with particularly good views of Black-banded Flycatcher, Spot-breasted Dark-eyes, Timor Cuckoo Dove, Buff-banded Bushbird, Timor Sparrows almost everywhere we went, and a surprise but welcome encounter with Timor Imperial Pigeon. Higher in the mountains we were thrilled to find the undescribed parrotfinch species discovered by James during our 2013 tour, both Iris and Olive-headed Lorikeets, Timor Stubtail, and the distinctive ‘Timor Cupwing’. Night-birds gave us the run-around but we eventually got amazing looks at both Timor Boobook and Timor Nightjar. Flores was our last major island and another flood of new endemics included Flores Green Pigeon, Flores Hawk Eagle, Flores Minivet, Flores Lorikeet, Wallace’s Hanging Parrot, Flores Monarch and many more. Night-birds were thrilling with Wallace’s Scops Owl surpassed by our bird-of-the-trip Flores Scops Owl which was seen both at night and at day-roost.
The tour finished with a typically enjoyable visit to Komodo where Yellow-crested Cockatoo, Green Junglefowl and Sunda Collared Dove were the bird highlight but could barely compete with a hulking 3-meter long Komodo Dragon walking right towards us! After a welcome rest in Bali to recover from our long journeys we began the tour with a short flight across to Sumba that was typically delayed but not too much. Our first destination was a rather non-descript patch of coastal scrub where we found an elusive pair of tailorbirds which had been discovered here just a few years previously. They looked very much like Olive-backed Tailorbirds but sounded a little different, and it was a good insurance bird should they turn out to be distinct, tailorbirds were not previously known east of Lombok. Then it was time for a rather warm mid-afternoon stomp around the dry grasslands of Yumbu but it was well worth it with some excellent flight views of several Sumba Buttonquail, plus a Brown Quail and many Australasian Bushlarks. From here we headed inland and finished the day in a mosaic of forest patches and grasslands where a showy Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher was the highlight although Pale-shouldered Cicadabird and Helmeted Friarbird were also new. We hung around until dark and after some patient waiting we enjoyed superb views of a Little Sumba Boobook right overhead, a species described as recently as 2002, having previously been thought an undescribed Otus.
Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher & Little Sumba Boobook, Sumba
Sumba Jungle Flycatcher and Indonesian Honeyeater, Sumba The next day also began in the dark, with a pair of vocal Barn Owls of which one was seen briefly, and a calling Sumba Boobook that waited until dawn before popping up for nice looks. We spent much of the remainder of the morning birding the roadside that cuts through the nearby national park and notched up a fair number of the island endemics. A Red-naped Fruit Dove in display flight overhead started us off before a pair of Sumba Hornbills
were greatly admired. Several Sumba Jungle Flycatchers were showy and we had good looks at the rather more skulking Sumba Flycatcher, which had unusually ventured into the canopy. Several Elegant Pitta were heard, one of which perched close by, the recently split Rusty-breasted (from Golden) Whistler was well seen, and the stunning Chestnut-backed Thrush was found twice. Marigold Lorikeets whizzed by a few times and we finished the morning on a high with Apricot-breasted Sunbird and a striking male Sumba Myzomela. Bird activity was low in the same area in the afternoon but we happily added a ‘Sumba’ Wallacean Cuckooshrikes, another pair of Sumba Hornbills, Orange-footed Scrubfowl scratching around at the roadside, and finished brilliantly with a Mees’s Nightjar that circled around and around and around us at dusk. We visited another site the next morning, a viewpoint with a panoramic vista over surrounding forest patches. Our main target here was the increasingly rare Orange-crested Cockatoo, a Sumba endemic recently elevated to full species status by BirdLife. We saw at least 8 and although fairly distant all salient features including the orangey crest were noted. Also seen here were several Sumba Myzomela, Eclectus Parrot, nice perched looks at Marigold Lorikeet, Short-toed Eagle, Spotted Kestrel, Peregrine and another pair of Sumba Hornbill. It was already getting hot when Mike L. brilliantly picked out a female Sumba Green Pigeon which popped out another couple of times over the next 30 minutes allowing most of us to connect. In the afternoon we transferred to a different area and finally scored with a good performance from our third endemic flycatcher, the inspiringly named Sumba Brown Flycatcher! Plus repeat looks at many of the islands now familiar birds, with the vocally distinct form of Little Cuckoo-dove the only new addition, although a posing Black-naped Fruit Dove was appreciated. Our last morning on Sumba was spent trying for better views of some of the Sumba Green Pigeons and this time we were all able to get views of at least two females visiting the same small fruiting tree. Thereafter Five-coloured Munia and Indonesian Honeyeater were the only new additions but we enjoyed the extra views of Orange-crested Cockatoos, Marigold Lorikeet, and others. It was then time to head to the airport and fly eastwards to the island of Timor, with large numbers of Australian Pratincole on the runways at either end. Arriving in Kupang we had only half an hour before sunset, just enough time to find a flock of Pale-headed Munia as an introduction to Timor birding.
Roti Boobook and ‘Roti Leaf Warbler’, Roti The next morning we took the fast ferry across to the island of Roti, lying just 12km southwest of mainland Timor this small island nevertheless holds much of interest with several distinct taxa soon to be elevated as full species together with a host of difficult Timor endemics. Driving out on the first afternoon felt very Australasian with Australian Pelican, Australian Pratincoles and Red-capped Plovers on roadside ponds. Once in a more forested area we soon found the distinctive ‘Roti’ Leaf Warbler with its remarkably long bill, together with our first Plain Gerygone and Orange-banded Thrush. A more open area held several Timor Bushchat, Timor Blue Flycatcher, Timor Figbird and at the last moment a Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon. As darkness descended, and at our second site, the tension was finally broken by the rumbling calls of a Roti Boobook overhead, which performed brilliantly once framed in the torch beam. We headed to a different area the next morning where a viewpoint with an excellent vista hosted a succession of excellent birds. First to appear was the distinctive ‘Roti’ Myzomela buzzing around us (currently subsumed within Sumba Myzomela despite stark vocal differences), then an Olive-shouldered Parrot in perfect early morning light, and an obliging Timor Black Pigeon. Timor Oriole impressed us with their friarbird similarity before we decided to stretch our legs with a short stroll that added more orioles, another Timor Black Pigeon and a gorgeous Orange-banded Thrush. This drew our short but very productive visit to Roti to a close, and we headed back on the ferry to Kupang once more. Once back we wasted no time shooting off to Bipolo eager to make the most of the remainder of the afternoon. It took some searching but we finally found a substantial munia flock in a quiet corner of the ricefields which had many smart Five-coloured Munia and importantly great looks at the endemic Timor Sparrow, of which at least 10 were present including a couple of immatures. As we made of way closer we also flushed both Red-backed Buttonquail and Brown Quail before moving on to spend the last of the daylight around
the nearby fish ponds where Buff-banded Rail and White-browed Crakes posed in the open, there was a large congregation of White-headed Stilts, both White-faced and Pied Heron, and several Royal Spoonbills.
Australian Pelican and ‘Roti Myzomela’, Roti
‘Timor Parrotfinch’ (female) and Timor Sparrow, Timor After another excellent meal and comfortable night in Kupang we set of the next morning to begin our forest birding at Camplong. More open areas were very active with Black-breasted Myzomela, Streak-breasted and Yellow-eared Honeyeaters at sunrise, and as we entered the forest we immediately struck gold with an active group of Spot-throated Dark-eyes and a stunning Black-banded Flycatcher which gave superb and prolonged views as it fed around us. Deeper in the forest our first of several Buff-banded Bushbirds appeared, likewise Fawn-breasted Whistler, a Timor Stubtail that spent much time around us, and rufiventris Northern Fantails that are so different to the tenkatei birds we had seen the previous days on Roti. We finished the morning with Timor Leaf Warbler and a Timor Cuckoo Dove that flew in to perch above us. An afternoon at slightly higher elevations produced much of the same produced many of the same including more views of the bushbirds, both Shining and Little Bronze Cuckoos, fantastic perched views of Rose-crowned Fruit Dove, and a rather brief Black-backed Fruit Dove. The star bird of the afternoon though were 2 Timor Imperial Pigeon which flew in for great views in the ‘scope, showing the distinctive pale iris lacking in all (!) illustrations of the species, a great surprise here at the lower end of its elevational range on Timor. Even before darkness had fallen we were soaking in a great performance for a pair of Timor Boobooks just overhead, but despite our best efforts the calling nightjars just didn’t want to perform. The next morning we were on the road well before dawn for the short but bumpy and painfully slow drive up to Gunung Mutis. We started this time at slightly lower elevations, enjoying our extensive picnic breakfast as the sun rose and the air filled with bird sound. Walking along a pleasant open track through the forest good numbers of
Island Thrush and Yellow-eared Honeyeaters were logged and we soon heard the characteristic high pitched calls of the new parrotfinch species which was found as recently as 2013 on our Birdtour Asia tour. Most of us were able to get views, with at least 3 individuals present, before they merged back into the forest. Moving on we were thrilled to get prolonged scope views of a small group of Iris Lorikeets, then after adding both Timor Friarbird and Sunda Cuckoo, we finished our session with an active feeding group of Olive-headed Lorikeets.
Buff-banded Bushbird and Black-banded Flycatcher, Timor
Timor Boobook and Pygmy Cupwing, Timor Moving to higher elevations it was already warm and sunny but this didn’t affect the birds and we very quickly found another parrotfinch which gave prolonged views for all the group, then the very distinctive ‘Timor’ Cupwing hopping around among some mossy boulders. After this great success we decided to head back to the previous days afternoon hotspot with Variable Goshawk, a family of Timor Sparrows, and yet more superb looks at Rose-crowned Fruit Dove. As dusk descended we waited patiently for the nightjars to appear but all were quiet and frustratingly a bird performing in a nearby clearing went quiet just moments before we arrived. This just made us all the more determined and so we were back at the spot again the next morning and this time had superb views as the ‘Timor Nightjar’ – a vocally distinct taxa which will soon be described as a new species – as it swooped around the clearing above our heads. With this mission accomplished the remainder of the day was spent back down in the lowland forests of Bipolo where yet more Timor Sparrows were found, together with the first Modest Flowerpecker (split from Thick-billed) and Pacific Baza were found. We had excellent perched views of Pacific Emerald Dove, a single tree packed alive with more than a dozen Little Bronze Cuckoos, a flyover Olive-shouldered Parrot, and finishing with fine views of a group of Tricolored Parrotfinches. An early flight the next morning delivered us to yet another major new island, landing in Ruteng nestled in the highlands of Flores where a whole new set of endemics awaited.
We wasted no time in heading up into the nearby highlands and quickly enjoyed success with two pairs of ‘Flores Shortwings’ close to roadside giving ample chances to appreciate the vocal and plumage differences from the vastly over-lumped White-browed Shortwing with which is currently resides. Next up was an amazing performance from a Bare-throated Whistler that belted out its ear-shatteringly loud song with bare throat patches ballooning with each note. Even as things began to heat up we added Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon, Crested and Yellow-browed Dark-eye, Golden-rumped Flowerpecker, the local Flores form of Lesser Wallacean Drongo and Flores Jungle Flycatcher before retreating to Ruteng for lunch and an afternoon drive down into the lowlands. Upon arrival at Kisol we headed straight for the forest and in spite of the overcast weather we teased out some great sightings including the concinna Elegant Pitta with the vocal and plumage differences from Sumba birds clear to see, the briefest of Chestnut-capped Thrushes, Black-fronted Flowerpecker, Thick-billed Dark-eye, our first White-rumped Kingfisher and extremely entertaining Flores Crows with their bizarre calls and fast whooshing flight.
Timor Bushchat and Spot-breasted Dark-eye, Timor
Flores Green Pigeon and Flores Shortwing, Flores At nightfall many Mees’s Nightjars and Moluccan Scops Owls called but with nothing very responsive we soon opted for a predawn return the next day instead. This proved to be a great decision because we were greeted the next morning by a calling Wallace’s Scops Owl which proved quite responsive, passing overhead several times, with a couple of fully illuminated passes just above our heads! As daylight arrived we spent the early part of the day inside the forest with more White-rumped Kingfisher among others before Mike’s vigil out on the road picked out a couple of Flores Green Pigeons in a fruiting tree so we hastened that way to enjoy this scarce and unpredictable endemic. As the heat was rising we headed to a viewpoint overlooking Gunung Pacandeki and after some diligent scanning 2 Flores Hawk Eagles were found circling the forested slopes. Finishing the morning back on the forest trails added Flores Minivet, ‘Flores Yellow White-eye’ (a distinctive form surprisingly lumped with
Oriental White-eye), and a stunning Chestnut-capped Thrush, a species increasingly threatened by trapping here and elsewhere. In the afternoon we headed back up into the mountains again where the weather was typically foggy and we only managed to find Brown-capped Fantail, Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon and Crested Dark-eye as Flores Lorikeets called unseen in the murky conditions.
Crested Dark-eye and Wallace’s Hanging Parrot, Flores
White-rumped Kingfisher and roosting Flores Scops Owl, Flores By dusk there was almost zero visibility and steady drizzle, not ideal night-birding weather, so we headed back for an early night and were back again early the next morning when the conditions were thankfully much clearer. All was quiet for some time but as dawn approached we heard our first Flores Scops Owl, increasing to three calling birds but try as we might we couldn’t get a view as they hid steadfast on the steep slope above us before eventually giving up as daylight arrived. The roadside birding here was very profitable with Ruddy Cuckoo Dove, a mist-laden Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon, Yellow-browed Dark-eye and Flores Leaf Warbler easily seen. We also managed excellent looks at two charming skulkers; Russet-capped Tesia and Pygmy Cupwing. In the late morning Rob took a little time out from the roadside birding on a ‘mission impossible’ to look for the Flores Scops Owls on the steep densely vegetated slope where we figured they must have gone to sleep early in the morning. Amazingly the pair of Flores Scops Owls were just where he predicted them to be and reunited with the group most of us made the difficult ascent of the slope. The next hour was a mix of emotions as the roosting birds had left their roost spot, were then relocated very close by, and after some stressful manoeuvring to find a spot where they were viewable from a reasonable distance, we all enjoyed prolonged views through the ‘scope. To say we were elated by surely the best views of the species since it was rediscovered by Rob and James in 2005, was something of an understatement and it was no surprise that it went on to become the runaway winner of the bird-of-the-tour
vote! The afternoon was more relaxed as we headed down to Lake Ranamese only to find the area engulfed in fog. With another stroke of fortune the fog cleared for a precious 15 minute spell during which a party of 4 tricolor Little Grebes steamed closer to investigate us, and brought along a single Australasian Grebe for an excellent side-by-side comparison. Next morning we headed to a pleasant mid-altitude forest patch for more relaxed birding. We started on a high with a group of Flores Green Pigeons in a fruiting tree and Barred Cuckoo Dove, Asian Paradise Flycatcher and Flores Minivet in the close vicinity. A slow wandering down the road had stunning looks at White-rumped Kingfisher, several Crested and Thick-billed Dark-eye, and the tours first Horsfield’s Bronze Cuckoo and Yellow-breasted Warbler. The parrots were the true stars though, firstly a group of 3 Flores Lorikeets which responded by circling right around us in prefect light before settling amidst the nearby trees for ‘scope views. Then after 2 flyby Wallace’s Hanging Parrots, one finally settled for us and proceeded to give 10 minutes of close, uninterrupted views as it gleaned insects from a nearby tree. The birding was so good that we headed back to the same area in the afternoon with the added attraction of close overhead views of Bonelli’s Eagle. The Flores Green Pigeons had increased to at least 10 and a Black-backed Fruit Dove perched up briefly.
Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon and Bonelli’s Eagle, Flores
Barred Dove and Green Junglefowl, Komodo A last few hours in the Ruteng area the next morning gave more brief views of Black-backed Fruit Dove, another Bonelli’s Eagle, Sunda Cuckoo and Mountain Tailorbird. We then began the drive down to the western lowlands for our next base in Labuan Bajo but there was an important stop to be made en-route because the mid-elevation forests at Puarlolo are famous as the easiest place to see the endemic Flores Monarch. Fortunately the monarch is not uncommon and we had excellent views of several individuals. The forest here is very birdy and White-rumped
Kingfisher, Flores Crow, Fores Minivet, both Chestnut-capped and Chestnut-backed Thrushes, and a confiding pair of Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon enjoyed. Of last full day of the tour was one of the most eagerly anticipated of the tour as we boarded a speedboat before sunrise for the spectacular rise across to Komodo Island, land of the immense Komodo Dragon. Lesser Frigatebird, Black-naped and Greater Crested Terns, White-bellied Sea Eagle and Great-billed Heron all enlivened the journey and once on the island the birds came thick and fast with our first of many Yellow-crested Cockatoos, more than 40 of which were logged including one attending a nest hole and close perched views. Green Imperial Pigeons were abundant, 2 Sunda Collared Doves were found, and Green Junglefowl easily seen.
Flame-breasted Sunbird and Little Grebe, Flores
Yellow-crested Cockatoo and Komodo Dragon, Komodo As we trekked through the scrub and forest patches the Komodo Dragons prove elusive which just scope views atop a hill to rewarded out efforts, but fortunately once back near the beach a huge 3 meter monster awaited, watching us through sleepy eyes. It didn’t seem keen to move much so having had our fill we headed away only to see this monster wandering along the beach, so we scuttled back to enjoy more views of this powerful creatures as it slowly prowled the area, tasting the air with its long deeply forked tongue. We finished the morning with a wonderful snorkelling stop before heading back to lunch in Labuan Bajo. In the afternoon Mike took most of the group firstly to the nearby beach for Javan Plover, and an oversummering Grey Plover. A nice stretch of roadside birding then gave our first views of Great-billed Parrot for the trip and at dusk a Moluccan Scops Owl. Rob meanwhile took Lois back up into the mountains for a second stab at the Flores Scops Owl that she missed when the terrain at the first sighting was a little too precarious. A beautiful crater lake on the way held good numbers of Pacific Black Duck plus some surprises like Lesser Whistling Duck, Grey Teal and Hardhead. After dark we waited in nervous anticipation in the forest but in spite of our considerable efforts there was nothing, not even a call, from
the Flores Scops Owl. Feeling rather dejected we headed away and were almost at our car when we heard the scops calling from another forested area. We sneaked into the forest and after some careful stalking we were finally close to the calling birds which soon popped up for a couple of close and clear views of this cute fellow above our heads, what a success and a great relief!The final morning gave us another couple of hours around Labuan Bajo where Stork-billed, Caerulean, and floresiana Common Kingfisher, and perched Pacific Baza were the highlights. As we departed for the airport a group of 5 Woolly-necked Storks bed us farewell and we headed back to Bali to celebrate a successful and most enjoyable adventure through ‘Nusa Tenggara’. The tour recorded a total of 232 species of which only 1 was heard only. For further information on our tours to the Lesser Sundas or other Indonesian destinations, please contact us via our e-mail or click here for our scheduled departure tours. Bird of the trip 1 = Flores Scops Owl 2 = Wallace’s Hanging Parrot 3 = White-rumped Kingfisher 4 = Black-banded Flycatcher 5 = Roti Boobook