Birding Trip Report: Borneo (Sabah, Malaysia)

1 | © Pritam Baruah

Birding Trip Report: Borneo (Sabah, Malaysia) Sepilok, Kinabatangan, Danum Valley, Crocker Range NP, Kinabalu NP

11 to 27 Aug 2015 – By Pritam Baruah

The Island of Borneo, the third largest in the world, is one of most biodiverse places on earth. Its rainforests are among the oldest, and with the tallest tropical trees making up the canopy & emergent layers, they are perhaps the most impressive looking too. Holding about 60 endemic bird species (taxonomy dependent) and the majority of bird species restricted to Sundaland (Malay Peninsula, Borneo, Sumatra and Java), Borneo is one of the classic birding destinations of the world. Adding to this is a stellar cast of charismatic tropical wildlife like Orangutan, Proboscis Monkey, Reticulated Python, turtles and bizarre terrestrial animals with adaptations for ‘flying’ (like flying-squirrels, flying-lizards and even flying-snakes). These superlatives made an impression on me since childhood so I’ve wanted to travel to Borneo for as long as I can remember. But, once cloaked completely in rainforest, unfortunately 70% of Borneo has already been cleared for agriculture and timber. The effects of this was evident in that, 22% of bird species and 6 out of 8 primate species seen in this trip, feature in the IUCN Red List. So the Borneo of my imagination doesn’t exist anymore. But the remaining 30% is still priceless for the ecological health of the island and of the planet itself. It remains to be seen if the recent commitments for conservation by Malaysia & Indonesia actually hold out in practice. I planned my itinerary to maximize chances for finding primates, turtles and of course, bird specialties restricted to Borneo and Sundaland. This itinerary can be combined with eastern Sarawak for species that are very difficult in Sabah but I did not have time. This was an independent trip and I used a guide only in Kinabatangan. My wife accompanied me for the Selingaan Island, Sepilok and Kinabatangan legs. I did the rest of the trip solo.

Whitehead’s Trogon, Kinabalu NP Bornean Orangutan, Danum Valley Field Center


Maps, Locations, Logistics

Birding localities in capitals. Map data: Google. 290 km x 175 km

Selingaan Island Brief: Selingaan Island, in the Sulu Sea, is part of the Turtle Islands National Park, which was set up to protect the nesting habitat of Green and Hawksbill Turtles. This is not a regular birding site but the chance to see sea turtles couldn’t be missed. July and August are high season for Green Turtles coming ashore to lay eggs. Habitat is mangroves, beach and figs & scrub in the interior. Lodging, Food, Transport: The tourist infrastructure is run by a concessionaire called Crystal Quest Sdn Bhd and a set 1-night tour is the only way to see the turtles. This tour has to be reserved either through them directly (good luck getting any response from them) or a regular tour company. We were lucky to be able to book directly and the tour came out cheaper. This is a very popular tour so it is essential to book well in advance. You have to report at the Sandakan jetty at 8:30 am to check-in. Tourists are loaded into speed boats that leave at 9:30 am and arrive at the island at 10:30 am. Rest of the day is at leisure. Snorkeling equipment can be rented. There is a nice interpretation center. Turtles come ashore at night. You observe one female turtle laying her eggs and then hatchlings being released. Lunch, dinner and breakfast are served in the dining room at fixed times. Rooms have two single beds, attached bath and even AC. Return boat starts next day at 7:00 am and arrives in Sandakan jetty one hour later. It is advisable to arrange for a pickup at the jetty as I didn’t see any public transportation nearby. Sites: The Island is small enough to bird inside-out in two hours by walking on the paths in the interior of the island and on the beach. Figs in the interior should be checked for pigeons. There is a designated area for snorkeling. Water monitors and Tabon Scrubfowl are everywhere. The Barred Rails are usually at the edge of beach and mangrove.


Sepilok

Brief: An excellent lowland forest birding site with dipterocarp forest and mangrove. Famous for its Orangutan Rehabilitation Center (OURC) and Rainforest Discovery Center (RDC). Although its bird list overlaps significantly with Kinabatangan and Danum Valley, birding for a day here is still highly recommended. The Bornean Bristlehead is reportedly more likely here than anywhere else. It is still far from common though and I was told by some rangers that it is getting harder to see here.

Lodging, Food, Transport: We stayed in the Sepilok B&B, which is conveniently located only 300 m away from the RDC entrance. Contrary to its name, it has a restaurant that also serves lunch and dinner. The OURC has a good restaurant. I used a taxi to get from OURC to RDC (at least 25 minute walk). Also taxi for all transfers between Sandakan and Sepilok.

Sites: The RDC is the main birding site and its gate remains open 24 hours (so birders are not constrained by its official hours). The RDC’s sturdy Canopy Walkway is one of the best of its kind in the world and birding from there is highly recommended. The excellent trail system is very productive too (especially Kingfisher Trail). Both the Canopy Walkway (especially around Bristlehead Tower) and the Hornbill Tower can be good for Bristlehead. The OURC is not very conducive for birding (since it opens only at 9:00 am) but its ‘Bird Trail’ can be productive (this is its only birding trail). The approach road to RDC and OURC is good for open country species. The excellent ranger-led night walks at the RDC should be considered unmissable.

© Sepilok RDC brochure


Lower Kinabatangan Brief: A classic birding destination of Borneo and famous as the most reliable place for the Bornean Ground-Cuckoo. Other ‘mega’ birds like the White-crowned Hornbill, Storm’s Stork and Oriental Bay Owl are more likely here than anywhere else. The remaining forests are a pale shadow of its past glory, brought to its knees by clear cutting for oil palm monocultures. Whatever remains now is part of a wildlife sanctuary and it is still an unmissable birding destination. There are mangroves north of Abai but it is the secondary lowland forest south of it that gets birded by travelling birders. A 3 night stay is recommended. Lodging, Food, Transport: We stayed three nights in Robert Chong’s Kinabatangan Jungle Camp (KJC). They have good experience with birders and both owner Robert and guide Romzi (who doubles as a boatman) know where to look for the specialties including the ground-cuckoo. Room had fan, attached bath (hot shower available) and house-keeping. The restaurant has good food but vegetarians should talk with the dining room staff in detail to avoid any confusion. We were picked up in Sepilok B&B and dropped off in Lahad Datu three days later by a shuttle arranged through Robert, who is very prompt over email. Sites: Birding is mostly by boat and depending on the situation you might have to disembark (in places where possible). The Kinabatangan, Tenanggang tributary and Menanggol tributary are the waterways that get birded most often if staying in KJC. There are two boat rides every day and you can do a boat ride at night too, to look for night birds (like Large Frogmouth), mammals and reptiles that are active at night. The small trail system in KJC is highly recommended and can be birded in between boat rides. There is a Storm’s Stork pair right on the grounds. One PM after lunch is set aside for Gomantong Caves where the Aerodramus swiftlets can be identified by their respective nests. The surrounding forest is quite productive too and it can be birded from the access road and from a boardwalk that connects the parking lot and cave. The bats come out at 5:30 pm and various raptors (including Bat Hawk) may be seen attempting to hunt the bats.

Danum Valley Brief: One of the most famous lowland rainforest birding sites in the world and a classic birding destination.

Almost every forest species of the foothills and plains of Borneo have been recorded here. The approach road

has recovering logged forest. The core area has truly impressive dipterocarp dominated forest with both virgin

and selectively logged areas and micro-habitats abound. Effectively, five full days (preferably six full days) is the

minimum recommended stay as birding here is challenging. I stayed 5 nights for effectively 4.5 days of birding.

Lodging: The two choices to stay are Borneo Rainforest Lodge (very expensive) and Danum Valley Field

Center (less expensive). DVFC is a rainforest research facility and supposedly not open to tourists. But tourists

can get a reservation too so that is a bit strange. I was able to get a reservation directly through their office. I

communicated using email and said I’ll write a report on birds and upload bird sounds for public use. I paid a

50% deposit by wire transfer to secure the reservation. I stayed in a room in their rest-house, which is adjacent

to the restaurant. Two single beds, attached bathroom, fan, electric kettle and cold shower. Electricity between

7:00 am and midnight. The dorms are much cheaper but I’m a light sleeper so I couldn’t risk not being able to

sleep due to disturbance. Also, the dorms are an inconvenient distance away from the restaurant and the start

of the Nature & Waterfall Trails.

Food: Meals at DVFC are buffet, expensive, have to be pre-booked and timings are inflexible. As a birder I

was sure I wouldn’t be able to adjust my field outings with their inflexible breakfast and lunch times. And

although the kitchen staff can pack lunch on prior notification, carrying extra load into the field was a strict no

for me. So I bought groceries in Lahad Datu for my breakfast and lunch. I would have early breakfast before

leaving for the field. I’d come back for lunch at my convenience and then head out again in the PM. Dinners

were at the restaurant. Apart from the buffet, one vegetarian entrée would be prepared specially for me.


Transport: From Kinabatangan to Lahad Datu by shuttle. Then I used a scheduled shuttle to get from DVFC’s

Lahad Datu office to DVFC. My return was not on a scheduled shuttle day. So I had to use a very expensive

‘chartered taxi’ from DVFC to Lahad Datu. I found out from the friendly driver this was just a company vehicle

used to ferry tourists to/from Lahad Datu every day. Obviously a very profitable venture! Lahad Datu to Kota

Kinabalu by Maswings flight.

Sites: The best way to bird here is to do the Tembaling Waterfall Trail (top: 320 masl), Nature Trail and its platform-tree (bird from the platform one morning or evening), Grid W0 to W10, Rhino Ridge Trail, Purut Waterfall Trail and the approach road. The S and N branches of the Grid can be explored too depending on availability of time. Doing the full Rhino Ridge Trail is recommended (unfortunately I didn’t have time) because some hill species are reportedly more likely there (top: 500 masl). I was not able to get on any night drives (1 hour / 160 RM / 7 persons). A minor disaster. I did one night walk (1 hour / 20 RM / 1 person) and saw nothing. Another minor disaster. On hindsight, I should have really gone out at night by myself. Both the drive and the walk can be reserved at the restaurant during or just before dinner (you can put your name down for that night’s activities or for later). In theory, guides are compulsory but I always went out alone. Basically if you have good experience in tropical forests, have spatial awareness and know what you are doing then there is no problem going out alone. No need to discuss about guide situation with the staff and they don’t seem interested if you are with a guide or not. I even met rangers on the trails and there were no objections whatsoever.

Trail map DVFC

Crocker Range NP

Brief: A hotspot for Bornean montane endemics but there are some targets here that are very hard to see in Kinabalu NP HQ (Mountain Barbet, Bornean Barbet, Bornean Leafbird, Bornean Bulbul, Cinereous Bulbul). Also Whitehead’s Spiderhunter is more likely here than in Kinabalu NP HQ (the other two of the Whitehead’s trinity are more likely in Kinabalu NP HQ). Furthermore, equal chances for Fruit-hunter here and in Kinabalu NP HQ. My strategy was to bird either for one whole day or until the five main targets plus the Whitehead’s Spiderhunter & Fruit-hunter were seen, whichever was shorter.


Lodging, Food, Transport: I stayed at the family run Gunung Alab Motel for one night (1 hour drive from BKI). It has a restaurant. Quite basic but sufficient for a night. Electricity provided soon after it gets dark inside the motel until midnight. Very convenient location (road to sub-station starts right opposite and birding possible all the way to the RIC. I drove a rental car for all transport between BKI, Gunung Alab & Kundasang. Sites: Three main birding sites: (1) Road to the Gunung Alab sub-station (1980 masl), (2) Rafflesia Information Center grounds (1400 masl), (3) Road between Gunung Alab Motel (1650 masl) and RIC and till 4 km west (1200 masl) of RIC. Birding from the road can be frustrating at times because of vehicular traffic (especially very loud, very large trucks). Habitat quite different along Gunung Alab sub-station road (short temperate cloud forest) and below RIC (transitional tropical forest). (2) & (3) are the areas for the main targets. It is a 10 minute drive between Gunung Alab Motel and RIC.

Kinabalu NP (HQ & Poring)

Brief: Kinabalu NP HQ, dominated by the towering Mount Kinabalu massif (Low’s Peak at 4095 masl, tallest in SE Asia) is the best site for Bornean montane endemics and a classic birding destination of SE Asia. Habitat is mostly pristine temperate cloud forest with transitional tropical forest in the valley bottoms. At least three full days are recommended for this site (ideally four) because some of the endemics are difficult to come by. The park has a well maintained and marked trail system and roadside parking is possible anywhere.

Lodging, Food, Transport: I stayed at the Cottage Hotel in Kundasang, only 10 minute drive from the HQ gate. Comfortable rooms, 24 hour electricity, attached bath, house-keeping, full service restaurant (makes good vegetarian food). Lodging tends to get more expensive as you get closer to the park and the ones inside the park are very expensive. I had lunch at the Liwagu Restaurant inside the park once. All other lunches were simple packed sandwiches from the hotel restaurant. I drove a rental car for all transport between Gunung Alab, Kundasang & BKI.

Sites: A main motorable road called the ‘Power Station Road’ (PSR 4.5 km) connects the HQ gate (1570 masl) and Timpohon Gate (1900 masl), which marks the start of the Summit Trail, used for hiking to the Mt Kinabalu summit. There is an extra fee to access the Summit Trail and the ticket must be purchased at the Timpohon Gate, which opens at 7:00 am. This trail is also the only way to get to the preferred localities for the Friendly Bush Warbler (usually after 1.5 km) and Island Thrush (usually after 3 km). Also Mountain Black-eye and Pale-faced Bulbul are rather uncommon below this trail. This trail was closed during my visit so I missed the first two species. All other birds can be found in the lower trails. Imo the Bukit Ular Trail, Silau-Silau Trail, Mempening Trail and the PSR itself are the best. It is rare to see the two endemic partridges outside of the trail system. In this report ‘upper’ & ‘lower’ are used as qualifiers to denote the upper & lower portions of these trails, delimited by the Bukit Tupai Trail, which cuts across and connects these 3 trails. Note that in times of drought or lows of fruiting cycles, birds (especially frugivorous) are much more likely to be found in the lower areas.

Image © www.mysabah.com

http://www.mysabah.com/


Poring Hot Springs: Part of the Kinabalu NP, only 40 minutes from Kundasang, provides access to mature forest in an elevation band that is not easily accessible elsewhere in Sabah. Habitat is wet tropical foothill forest, which is quite different from Kinabalu NP HQ. The steep Langanan Waterfall Trail (500-1200 masl), the only forest access here, is well known for some species that are difficult to come by elsewhere (especially Hose’s Broadbill, Blue-banded Pitta, Cinnamon-rumped Trogon, White-necked Babbler, Scaly-breasted Bulbul). However it should be noted that these can be difficult to find even here, especially the broadbill. Nevertheless, many more excellent lowland species can be found here (reliable for Rufous-collared Kingfisher) and I strongly recommend spending one full day, including a morning because it is close enough for a productive day trip. I hadn’t planned on visiting Poring (solely for my own time constraints) but having done well with the montane species I decided to spend my last PM in Poring. I drove a rental car between Kundasang & Poring.

Readings

(1) Book: “Phillipps' Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo”, 3rd ed, Q. Phillipps, K. Phillipps (2014) (2) Book: “A Field Guide to the Mammals of Borneo”, J. Payne, C.M. Francis, K. Phillipps, (1985) (3) Book: “A Field Guide to the Reptiles of South-East Asia”, Indraneil Das (2010) (4) Trip report: “Birding Sabah”, M. Grundsten, H. Hulten, M. Naslund (Mar-Apr 2015) (5) Trip report: “Birding Sabah, Borneo”, B.O. Poulsen (Jul-Aug 2012) (6) Trip report: “Sabah & Sarawak”, D. Marques, F. Ducry (Jul-Aug 2009) (7) Trip report: “Birding Sabah, (Malaysian Borneo)”, S. Pieterse, B. Wielstra (Mar 2009) (8) Trip report: “Borneo”, H. Matheve, W. Heylen, J. Elst, C.V. Asselberghs (Jun-Jul 2008)

http://www.cloudbirders.com is the most comprehensive repository of birding trip reports. I extensively used the 5 reports above for planning. Discussions in http://www.birdforum.net/forum.php were also very helpful.

Itinerary

Date Time Birding Area Type Activities

11-Aug 14:30 - 17:00 Flight KUL - SDK

17:30 - 18:00 Taxi SDK - Sepilok RDC

18:00 - 20:30 Sepilok RDC Hike Night walk

12-Aug 06:00 - 08:00 Sepilok RDC Hike Canopy Walkway

08:00 - 08:30 Taxi Sepilok to Sandakan jetty

09:30 - 10:30 Boat Sandakan jetty to Selingaan Turtle Island

10:30 - 22:30 Selingaan Island Misc Leisure, birding, turtle nesting/release (night)

13-Aug 07:00 - 08:00 Boat Selingaan Turtle Island to Sandakan jetty

08:00 - 08:30 Taxi Sandakan jetty to Sepilok OURC

09:00 - 11:00 Sepilok OURC Misc Orangutan nursery, feeding

11:00 - 12:00 " Hike OURC ‘Bird trail’

13:00 - 18:00 Sepilok RDC Hike Kingfisher-Ridge-Pitta-Sepilok Giant trails

14-Aug 06:00 - 09:00 Sepilok RDC Hike Kingfisher-Belian trails loop, Canopy Walkway

09:15 - 11:15 Shuttle Sepilok to Bilit jetty

11:15 - 11:30 Kinabatangan Boat Bilit jetty to Kinabatangan Jungle Camp (KJC)

11:45 - 13:30 " Hike KJC trails


15:30 - 18:00 " Boat Kinabatangan, Tenanggang tributary

20:00 - 21:30 " Boat (Night) Kinabatangan

http://www.cloudbirders.com/

http://www.birdforum.net/forum.php


15-Aug 06:45 - 12:00 Kinabatangan Boat Kinabatangan, Menanggol tributary


14:45 - 19:15 " Boat Kinabatangan (upstream)

16-Aug 06:45 - 11:30 Kinabatangan Boat Kinabatangan, Tenanggang tributary


14:30 - 18:00 " Hike Gomantong Cave

20:00 - 21:30 " Boat (Night) Kinabatangan, Tenanggang tributary

17-Aug 06:45 - 11:00 Kinabatangan Boat Kinabatangan, Menanggol tributary

12:00 - 14:00 Taxi Bilit to Lahad Datu

15:30 - 17:30 Shuttle Lahad Datu to Danum Valley Field Center

18-Aug 06:00 - 08:30 Danum Valley Hike Access road

08:30 - 17:00 " Hike Nature trail, Tembaling Waterfall trail

19-Aug 06:00 - 13.30 Danum Valley Hike Grid W0-W5S5 shortcut, Purut Waterfall trail

15:00 - 17:30 " Hike Grid W0-W5, access road

20-Aug 06:00 - 13:30 Danum Valley Hike Tembaling Waterfall trail

13:30 - 17:00 " n/a Rain (no birding)

21-Aug 06:00 - 13:45 Danum Valley Hike Grid W0-W10-W10N5-W10-W12

15:00 - 17:30 " Wait Platform-tree

22-Aug 06:00 - 12:30 Danum Valley Hike Nature trail, Tembaling Waterfall trail

13:30 - 15:30 Taxi DVFC to Lahad Datu

16:00 - 16:40 Flight LDU-BKI

18:00 - 19:00 Drive BKI to Gunung Alab (Crocker Range)

23-Aug 06:15 - 11:30 Crocker Range Hike Rafflesia Information Center (& 3 km above it)

12:15 - 14:30 " Hike Gunung Alab Station

14:30 - 17:00 " Hike Rafflesia Information Center (& 3 km below it)

17:00 - 18:45 Drive Rafflesia Information Center to Kundasang

24-Aug 06:00 - 15:00 Kinabalu NP Hike PSR (TG-MP) - MP - BT - SS - PSR (SS-TG)

15:30 - 17:00 " Hike Pandanus trail

17:00 - 17:45 " Drive Around Kinabalu Mountain Lodge

17:45 - 19:00 " Wait Open areas around Liwagu restaurant

25-Aug 06:00 - 10:00 Kinabalu NP Hike Bukit Ular (go up, come down)

10:30 - 13:30 " Hike Upper Kiau View - Pandanus - LR

13:30 - 15:00 " n/a Rain (no birding)

15:00 - 17:30 " Hike Upper Silau-Silau (from LR) - PSR (SS-LR)

26-Aug 06:00 - 10:15 Kinabalu NP Hike BT - lower MP - lower LW - PSR (LW-BT)

10:30 - 11:15 Drive Kinabalu NP to Poring Hot Springs

11:45 - 17:30 Poring Hike Langanan Trail (up to 2.1 km)

27-Aug 06:00 - 08:00 Kinabalu NP Drive PSR (HQ - TG - HQ)

08:00 - 09:40 Drive Kinabalu NP to BKI

11:50 : 14:00 Flight BKI - KUL

KUL Kuala Lumpur airport SDK Sandakan airport PSR Power Station Road MP Mempening Trail

BKI Kota Kinabalu airport SS Silau-Silau Trail BT Bukit Tupai Trail LR Liwagu Restaurant

LDU Lahad Datu airport TG Timpohon Gate LW Liwagu Trail HQ Headquarters


Diary

Note: In general only the first occurrence of a species is noted in this diary. Species name are noted in bold

only once. However some species are in bold more than once only for special context. Some widespread and

common species are not noted in this diary. Many species are encountered in multiple locations and this is

covered in the annotated trip list. Species-level information is only in the annotated trip list.

11-AUG [Kuala Lumpur to Sandakan; Sepilok RDC night walk]

We had chosen our afternoon Air Asia flight from

Kuala Lumpur to Sandakan such that we would be

comfortably able to catch the ranger-led night walk

at Sepilok RDC. Earlier we had asked the Sepilok

B&B to call the RDC and reserve two spots for us.

Unfortunately the flight got delayed by 1.15 hours.

We scrambled from SDK in a taxi (25 min), quickly

deposited our luggage at the Sepilok B&B and

reached the RDC 2 minutes late for the 6:00 pm

start. Fortunately the walk would start 10 minutes

late (two registered participants reached even

later). The walk was led by one ranger and one

expert spotter (who would always walk 10 m ahead

of the line). It lasted for 2:30 hours and it was very

successful – we had two Red Giant Squirrels from the Canopy Walkway gliding between massive emergent

trees, one Colugo, one Slow Loris, and an incredible Oriental Bay Owl, sleeping Bornean Black Magpie,

Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher and many amazing snakes and insects (like spiders, ants, centipedes).

12-AUG [Sepilok RDC; Selingaan Island]

This morning I spent two hours birding in the Sepilok B&B grounds, the short road to the RDC and the

Canopy Walkway. One of the first birds was a scarce Large Green Pigeon on a tree outside the Sepilok B&B

restaurant. The road between B&B & RDC had Dusky Munia & Copper-throated Sunbird and the RDC

Canopy Walkway revealed Bornean Brown Barbet, Lesser Green Leafbird, Jerdon’s Baza, Raffle’s

Malkoha, Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike and Red-throated Sunbird among others. Speculative playback

from the Walkway for Bornean Bristlehead resulted in a response, leading to much excitement but they did not

come in – maybe because of the presence of several raptors nearby (including Wallace’s Hawk Eagle). At

8:00 am we took a taxi (30 min) to the Sandakan jetty to catch a boat (1 hour) to Selingaan Island, a one night

turtle viewing tour we had booked with Crystal Quest Sdn Bhd.

Some relaxed birding around the idyllic beach setting at Selingaan Island produced Tabon Scrubfowl, Barred

Rail (a recent colonizer from Philippines), Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Pied Triller, Collared Kingfisher

and Sunda Woodpecker. Later this night we closely observed a huge Green Turtle momma lay her eggs on

the beach and then we released a bucket full of really cute hatchlings into the sea. Overall a super experience.

13-AUG [Selingaan Island to Sandakan; Sepilok]

We arrived back at the Sandakan jetty by boat at 8:00 am and went straight by taxi (30 min) to the Sepilok

Orangutan Rehabilitation Center (OURC). We had arranged for the previous day’s taxi to pick us up at the jetty

as public transport is not easily available there. The gates to the OURC were still closed and birding outside the

office didn’t reveal much other than some perched Long-tailed Parakeet. The gates opened at 9:00 am. We

Oriental Bay Owl, Sepilok RDC


checked out the Orangutan nursery (several hand raised Orangutans playing & feeding) and the 10:00 am

feeding session (two semi-wild Orangutans showed up). At 11:00 am I began hiking the ‘Bird Trail’ which was

immediately quite productive, in particular I spent quality time with a mixed babbler flock of Chestnut-

rumped, Ferruginous, Scaly-crowned and Short-tailed Babbler. A White-crowned Shama made an

appearance, demonstrating its extraordinary vocal repertoire. I soon realized it is the most commonly

encountered lowland endemic. Then without warning the heavens opened up, rudely interrupting my babbler

time. The torrential downpour had me running to a small shelter where I holed up for 45 minutes. When the

rain subsided for a bit I decided to head for the Rainforest Discovery Center (RDC). Packed a picnic lunch

from the OURC cafeteria and took a taxi to the RDC, where I picnicked under a shelter while it was still

drizzling. By the time the drizzle stopped I was already working the Canopy Walkway, eventually seeing Brown-

backed Needletail, Green Iora and even a distant Red-bearded Bee-eater. From the Canopy Walkway I

also spotted a very busy fruiting tree that seemed to be close to the Kingfisher Trail so I decided to get closer

to it. The tree turned out to be right on the Kingfisher Trail and there were several flowering patches in the

same spot. Across 3 visits to this spot today & next morning, I had 4 species of spiderhunters including Thick-

billed, Spectacled, Yellow-eared & Little Spiderhunter. Also Blue-rumped Parrot, Blue-crowned

Hanging-Parrot and several common bulbul species on the fruiting tree. I spent the rest of the day walking

this route: Ridge Trail – Pitta Trail – Sepilok Giant Trail – Ridge Trail – Woodpecker Ave. Once back on

Woodpecker Ave, I did a quick detour to check out the fruiting tree on Kingfisher Trail again, finally arriving

back at the entrance gate at 6:00 pm. The day was brutally hot & humid so activity was less than ideal throughout

the hike but I still had some great birds – Bornean Spiderhunter at the junction of Kingfisher – Belian – Ridge

Trails, unsatisfactory views of a fleeing Bornean Banded Pitta on the Pitta Trail, excellent looks of a glowing

Black-crowned Pitta very close to the Sepilok Giant and a tame pair of Black-and-red Broadbill back on

the Ridge Trail. I was hoping to do the ranger-led night walk again to try for the Tarsier but it got cancelled for

unknown reasons so I walked back to the B&B.

14-AUG [Sepilok RDC; Kinabatangan]

I had 3 hours in Sepilok RDC this morning before heading to the

Lower Kinabatangan area. I did the Kingfisher – Belian Trails loop

where I had Red-naped Trogon and several spiderhunters at the same

fruiting & flowering patch on Kingfisher Trail. On hearing what I

thought were Bristlehead, I rushed to the Canopy Walkway only to find

some birders playing its tape. From the Walkway I saw a few Cream-

colored Giant Squirrel, Black-and-yellow Broadbill and Diard’s

Trogon (first seen through the floor mesh) very close by, before I had

to walk back to the B&B to catch a 9:00 am shuttle to Bilit jetty. On

my way back I realized that I didn’t see a single woodpecker in Sepilok,

which is known to be productive for woodpeckers.

An uneventful shuttle ride later we reached Bilit where a boat from

Robert Chong’s Kinabatangan Jungle Camp was ready for us. The 10

min boat ride to KJC yielded a Bornean Falconet. This diminutive

‘mega’ was characteristically perched on a leaf-less tree right on the

bank. Blue-throated Bee-eater was very common along the river. The

lunch was scheduled for 1.30 pm so I had plenty of time to explore the trail system at KJC. I set out at 11.45

pm and within 2 minutes I picked up two species of woodpeckers – Maroon Woodpecker & Buff-necked

Woodpecker, perhaps making up for their no-show in Sepilok. They were in a dispersed feeding flock that

also held Rufous-winged Philentoma and undergrowth babblers such as Horsfield’s Babbler & White-

chested Babbler. After lunch I went out again and found a Malaysian Blue Flycatcher.

Buff-necked Woodpecker, Kinabatangan


The boat ride started at 3:30 pm and we soon ran

into a troupe of Silver Leaf-Monkey. In the

Tenanggang tributary we saw large troupes of the

iconic Proboscis Monkey and even scored a very

large mature male who stuck around long enough

to give us good looks at his eponymous

appendage. There are usually lot of tourist boats

along the narrow tributaries in the afternoon and

today was no different. It is unclear to me if that

affected birding. Even so, we had several

Wrinkled Hornbill and just when we were about

to exit the tributary we heard one of our most

wanted targets, the increasingly rare White-

crowned Hornbill, and a flock of 5 came in very

easily to tape playback. Other good birds were

Blue-eared Kingfisher and Lesser Fish-Eagle.

We got back to camp at 6:00 pm. During dinner

the resident Bearded Pig family made an

appearance, headed by the comically skittish

‘Maggie’, a huge male raised by Robert in his camp.

After dinner we headed out for a night boat ride hoping to find nocturnal creatures. We saw at least 5 Buffy

Fish-Owl and at a stakeout we heard a Large Frogmouth tantalizingly close to the bank. Unfortunately,

despite our best efforts for a long time we were unable to see it. On our way back we saw a 9 feet long

Reticulated Python, its iridescent scales were truly amazing.

15-AUG [Kinabatangan]

Dense fog over the Kinabatangan meant that we set out only at 6:45 am this morning. That gave me some time

to locate the resident pair of endangered Storm’s Stork in the KJC grounds – they were still roosting on a large

tree above the dining area. Once on the river, we quickly found a family of Bornean Gibbon (views got

significantly better next day thanks to a confiding male right next to the KJC dining area). Our aim was to get

to the Menanggol tributary downstream in Sukau to try for the Bornean Ground-Cuckoo, my No.1 target in

Borneo. We stopped at a few places before the tributary to look for it but we didn’t find any. However we did

find a nesting pair of Bat Hawk right by the river & two Rufous-bellied Eagle. Once inside the Menanggol

our strategy was to play the tape for a few seconds every 100 m to see if we can get a response. Unfortunately

we didn’t get any response whatsoever. Overall the morning turned out to be slim pickings – the only new birds

we managed for the trip were Sooty-capped Babbler, Bold-striped Tit-Babbler, Grey-headed Fish-Eagle

and a brilliant Hooded Pitta (which was very confiding). The Sooty-capped Babbler was common by voice

but we were able to get good views only after a substantial on-shore effort. Two Violet Cuckoo remained

heard-only and there were plenty of Black Hornbill and Oriental Pied Hornbill along the waterways. We

returned somewhat disappointed at the lack of any signs of the ground-cuckoo and hornbills (it was a priority

for me to get close river side views of hornbills). A quick visit to the KJC trails before lunch yielded a pair of

the amazing looking Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler.

At lunch we got news that a Pygmy Elephant herd that was being tracked much further upstream along the

Kinabatangan has reached the western limit of the reserve and they were now expected to move inland from

the river bank. That necessitated an immediate transfer by boat to that area before they disappeared into the

jungle. We rushed, stopping along the way a few times only: for a large Estuarine Crocodile swimming across

the river, White-bellied Sea-Eagle and something I was longing for – a tree full of Wrinkled Hornbill (16)

White-crowned Hornbill, Kinabatangan


and another tree full of Rhinoceros Hornbill (9), both at

close range. It took us 1.30 hours to get to the target area but

alas, the elephants were gone. We searched in vain for 1:30

hours along the shore & also inside the forest. On our return

journey we had a large flock of Bushy-crested Hornbill (12)

cross the river above our boat and settle on a river bank tree.

A few minutes later we had an incredible experience of 24

Rhinoceros Hornbill flying over the river right along the

boat and then crossing over to the other bank in front of us.

We were unable to do the night boat today because my wife

came down with a bruised eye (something struck her eye

during the boat ride). Romzi had the same problem but he

recovered much sooner.

16-AUG [Kinabatangan; Gomantong]

Heavy fog delayed our start yet again. The plan for the morning was the same as yesterday -try for the ground-

cuckoo on the Kinabatangan and Menanggol. We had gone less than 10 minutes (yet to reach the Tenanggang

turnoff) when a piece of debris hit the boat’s propeller and we had to stop to check – but it was nothing serious

and we had just started the boat again when we heard the loud booming cries of a Bornean Ground-Cuckoo.

We determined it might be 100 m inside. We played the tape a few times and got a good response, it even

seemed to come towards us but after sometime it stopped responding. To make things worse, we realized it

would be difficult to disembark at this location because terra firma was at least 10 feet above the water line.

The edge itself was skirted by dense vegetation with zero through-visibility so even if the bird did come in, the

chances of seeing it from the boat were slim. But just as hope was fading, we heard another ground-cuckoo

about 150 m upstream and we could see that disembarking there would be possible. So off we went,

disembarked and took up positions on hard ground. The events that followed for the next 90 minutes would be some of

the most frustrating in my entire life. First we realized that the ground-cuckoo was very far away. But conveniently,

a Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo was calling from the very tree at whose base we were hiding. So while the

ground-cuckoo was still far away, presumably slowly making its way towards us, we tried to find the hawk-

cuckoo. But no matter how hard Robert, Romzi and me tried, it did not reveal its location. Then after about

20 min we felt that the ground-cuckoo was near enough to change focus. And we did, even ignoring a calling

close range Black-crowned Pitta, which I had seen earlier. But suffice to say that eventually after 2 hours of

intense effort & exhausting our ample bag of tactics & several very close shaves, I managed to see a TAIL. I

certainly don't need any more convincing that nature can sometimes be brutal. Despairingly, we left and spent

out the remaining session on the nearby Tenanggang tributary (where unlike our previous visit, this time water

hyacinth prevented us from going beyond 100 m). By now the day had become very hot and sunny and activity

seemed to have come to a standstill at the forest edge, so Robert decided to head back to camp. Just before

exiting the Tenanggang we found a flock of four very responsive Dusky Broadbill.

There were still 2 hours left for lunch (1:30 pm) so I was able to do a full loop of the KJC west trail. Activity

inside the forest interior was much better than at the edges of open water and I started finding some great birds.

A feeding flock held a Buff-rumped Woodpecker and a Black-capped Babbler was seen walking on the

trail. A tame pair of Maroon-breasted Philentoma were much appreciated. Then something quite large

suddenly dropped out from a branch (maybe 7 feet high) and I heard it land and hastily walk away. It happened

so quickly and there was so much brush that my eyes didn’t register anything more than a ‘large shape’. Back at

camp, Robert was confident that it was a Clouded Leopard as Orangutans wouldn’t jump from a branch to

escape. During lunch, some heavy movement of leaves near the dining area alerted us to a Bornean Gibbon

which was feeding low on a small fruiting tree, giving us excellent views.

Rhinoceros Hornbill, Kinabatangan


This afternoon was our planned trip to the Gomantong Caves. The upstream boat ride to Bilit and drive to the

gate of the reserved forest was uneventful. Bird wise I wanted to try for the scarce & tricky Black-throated

Babbler before entering the cave so we skipped birding on the access road and instead focused on the boardwalk

trail that leads from the car park to the caves. But the target babbler was unresponsive. Instead we found the

first Puff-backed Bulbul, Hairy-backed Bulbul and endemic Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker of the trip.

We then came across a troupe of attractive Red Leaf-Monkeys right above the trail but while watching them, a

huge motionless shape caught my eye on the same tree. It was a magnificent Barred Eagle-Owl who curiously

observed us for the next 10 minutes. A quick movement nearby alerted us to a second Barred Eagle-Owl which

seemed to be disturbed by the bulbuls and it deftly glided through the dense forest and disappeared. We

continued watching the first individual for another 5 minutes. Then just as we were about to enter the cave, a

Wreathed Hornbill flew past above our heads. Once inside the unwholesome conditions of the cave, we

carefully examined the roof and found good numbers of all three Aerodramus swifts that are virtually

indistinguishable, sitting on their diagnostic nests - Mossy-nest, Black-nest & White-nest Swiftlet. I was not

unhappy to be out of the cave so quickly and we resumed our search for birds at the base of the cave. Soon

after exiting the cave I noticed a vigorous movement of vegetation in the canopy of the forest. But this was no

bird – it was a large male Orangutan, our first totally wild individual. We saw it very well from close range and

this was quite a relief as the Kinabatangan area was my wife’s last stop in Borneo and we hadn’t seen any yet.

Then we heard a much-wanted Black-throated

Babbler but it was stubbornly uncooperative.

We reached the parking lot just on time to see the bats

exit the cave in large numbers. They were being

preyed by a Peregrine Falcon and a Wallace’s

Hawk-Eagle but it was unclear if they were

successful. Unfortunately, the Bat Hawks were a no-

show (so it was fortunate that we had seen them

earlier on a boat ride).

During dinner we saw several very bold Asian Palm

Civets on the KJC grounds. After dinner I went out

again with Romzi for a last attempt at the Large

Frogmouth. Unfortunately the only individual that

responded refused to move from an area where

disembarking was impossible. This was on the

Kinabatangan. Then we moved into the Tenanggang

but didn’t find anything there either.

17-AUG [Kinabatangan; Bilit to Lahad Datu to DVFC]

Today morning’s boating was the last chance for the ground-cuckoo and the plan was to look for it on the

Menanggol and at the earlier spot along the Kinabatangan where we had come close yesterday. But today turned

out to be as unsuccessful as 15-Aug, that is, we failed to even hear it. Some new birds we managed to pick up

were Crested Goshawk, a pair of Grey-and-buff Woodpecker, Dark-throated Oriole, a flyby Black-bellied

Cuckoo and a dapper Scarlet-rumped Trogon. We even saw a Storm’s Stork which ran into the forest upon

seeing the boat (quite unlike the bold individuals at KJC) and another flock of Bushy-crested Hornbill. There

was also a delightful group of four Oriental Small-clawed Otter feeding on fish they had already caught. On

our way to Bilit after checking out from KJC, we saw an Osprey near Bilit jetty, considered uncommon here.

Robert had arranged a taxi for us to get to Lahad Datu, from where I would head towards Danum Valley Field

Center and my wife would fly to Kuala Lumpur (via Kota Kinabalu). We were in Lahad Datu two hours later,

Barred Eagle Owl, Gomantong


had lunch there and brought some groceries from a supermarket for my stay in DVFC. After dropping off my

wife at the airport I checked in at the nearby DVFC office and boarded their shuttle (3:30 pm). A girl on the

same shuttle wanted to exchange some money enroute and that caused at least a 25 minute delay in reaching

DVFC. The road runs through a heavily logged forest concession and it looked promising for birding. But the

shuttle does not stop except if there is something unusual right on the road. We stopped once for a dashing

male Crested Fireback. By the time I was checked into my rest-house room at 5:45 pm, there was very little

activity around. So I decided to stroll around the grounds to familiarize myself with the trailheads. I spent the

rest of the evening reviewing what I had already seen, what I still needed to find and doing up an initial plan.

18-AUG [DVFC]

I woke up to a dark overcast morning. So instead of hitting the trails immediately (they are mostly close-

canopied), I birded along the access road, interrupted at times by short drizzles. Speculative playback for Straw-

headed Bulbul at the riverside scrub near the suspension bridge to the Grid trails, produced excellent views

of one individual. Spectacled Bulbul was common along roadside scrub and a mixed feeding flock held Grey-

headed Babbler, Rufous-fronted Babbler & Yellow-breasted Flowerpecker. There were many Chloropsis

on the trees and among them some turned out to be Greater Green Leafbird, conclusively identified by the

presence of the diagnostic females. A Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo was heard and then rather briefly seen in

flight. At 8:30 am I decided the light was good enough to enter the forest trails so I headed for the Nature Trail,

whose trailhead starts right outside the restaurant. Silver-rumped Needletail and Grey-rumped Treeswift

were making low sallies over the open space west of the restaurant.

Between Nature Trail marks 1-17, I ran into two nice flocks,

one of which held Grey-cheeked Bulbul, the very un-

fulvetta looking Brown Fulvetta and a very conspicuous

White-tailed Flycatcher. And just then, a loud woodpecker-

like sound was heard nearby. Recording it and playing it back

produced aggressive response from two different species –

Orange-backed Woodpecker (whose sound it really was)

and a Banded Broadbill. I turned left at marker 17 and

entered the Tembaling Waterfall Trail at marker 23. Soon I

had crippling views at one of the top targets of the trip – the

Blue-headed Pitta. It was heard close to the trail and after

playing the tape just once, it came in to investigate quite

rapidly. I couldn’t believe how easy it was and even more

surprisingly, I was to have a total of four excellent encounters with

this endemic pitta during my trip. A little further uphill a large

Orangutan was noisily feeding. And soon afterwards, in one of the top experiences of the trip, a spectacular

male Helmeted Hornbill that was calling overhead above the closed canopy, was taped in to eye level views

within the understory. Further up the hill I ran into a mixed feeding flock that had Rufous-chested Flycatcher

among others. Just as I was leaving the flock behind, I heard a Bornean Banded Pitta down the slope. I

positioned myself in a spot with good down-slope visibility, determined the places where the pitta could be

hiding and waited to see some movement. But nothing happened for 30 minutes except hearing sporadic

vocalizations. Just as I was giving up thinking there is plenty more time to search for this, a movement on the

forest floor caught my eye. It was the pitta and it had frozen itself thinking I hadn’t seen it. Just like Blue-

headed, I was to have a total of four encounters with this endemic species during my Borneo trip. On my way

back, I heard a Blue-banded Pitta 50 m before the first fork. While waiting for it to come in, a feeding flock

containing Spotted Fantail & Moustached Babbler passed by. The pitta never showed up and I was quite

hungry having had only a light breakfast and skipping lunch. So I decided to hurry back down to the rest-house.

Spotted Fantail, DVFC


But that was not possible because bird activity was quite good

(although most birds were not new for the trip) and there was even a

very curious Orangutan who made a significant effort to get good

looks at me. At a tree fall gap a canopy flock of Gold-whiskered

Barbet, Asian Fairy Bluebird and yet more Dusky Broadbill raised

my hopes for Bristlehead but there were none. I reached the rest-

house quite tired at 5:00 pm. Although some daylight still remained, I

was satisfied by today’s results so I decided to call it a day and have

some food instead. Tonight’s scheduled night drive got cancelled

because of rain.

19-AUG [DVFC]

I had read that the Grid W0-W5S5 shortcut by the river can be good

for the three wren-babblers so that is where I went first. This trail is now called the Purut Waterfall Trail right

from its start at W0. Unfortunately, both were completely silent so didn’t find them. The habitat for the first

500 m is rather trashed but I still found a flock of Rufous-crowned Babbler (confirmed by sound). At a major

stream crossing past the turnoff to the ‘Rhino Pool’, I found a much-wanted Chestnut-naped Forktail. After

this, the trail starts rising up a hill and coincides with the Rhino Ridge Trail before forking again towards the

waterfall. Here I found Plain Sunbird, Great Slaty Woodpecker (which flew onto an understory tree on

playback), Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and the iconic Green Broadbill (there were at least three in that spot).

Further ahead I heard a Giant Pitta which responded well but stubbornly refused to move. I heard Bornean

Banded Pitta several times and attempted to see it twice, succeeding both times (seeing a female too). I decided

to head back towards the stream crossing to try for kingfishers but just as I reached the stream it started raining

quite heavily. So I rushed back to the rest-house. I didn’t lose much birding time as it stopped raining by the

time I grabbed lunch & changed clothes.

After lunch I decided to go to the Grid again. It was quite birdy and I saw Olive-backed Woodpecker &

Rufous Woodpecker in a mixed flock. Also excellent views of yet more Banded Broadbill. I went only to W5

after which I decided to spend the last remaining day light minutes on the access road. Rufous Piculet, one of

the smallest woodpeckers in the world, was the last new bird in the Grid. The access road didn’t yield much

though – some Rhinoceros Hornbill flying to their roosts were the only notable birds.

During dinner a casual conversation with a couple (wildlife enthusiasts but not hardcore birders) from UK

revealed that they had seen a sleeping Giant Pitta in the Kinabatangan and had two sightings of Great Argus in

DVFC. That got me determined to find them both. Eventually I failed to see the Giant Pitta but a calculated

endeavor for the Argus next morning worked perfectly.

After dinner I joined a ranger-led one-hour walk with the same couple but it was a complete failure. We saw a

very large (but good looking) snail and an unidentified stick insect, that’s all. I even ended up donating blood

to four leeches (two Tiger Leech, two Brown Leech). I went to bed hoping for better luck next morning.

20-AUG [DVFC]

On my earlier hike on the Tembaling Waterfall Trail, I had noticed an active Great Argus performing stage (a

large circular patch of ground cleared of leaves) right on the trail at the top of the first hill (if taking the first

left from the platform-tree). After last night’s refocus on this often-heard-but-hardly-seen ‘mega’, my strategy

was to hike up the hill and wait at a suitable spot until I hear the Argus sing from the top. Presumably, this

would allow me to secretively walk to the top along the ridge and spot the bird right on its stage (located just

on the other side of the top). Initially this worked just as I had thought – at 7:45 am when a different Argus

vocalized from the valley below, I heard my target individual’s loud response from the top of the hill. Surely it

Dusky Broadbill, DVFC


was on or near its stage and I began slowly walking the remaining 100 m or so. But there was something on the

trail much closer than expected – it was a Bearded Pig and it had seen me! Unfortunately, it fled right up the

ridge and disappeared down the other slope. This was a disaster because surely it had run right past the Argus

and alerted it to danger. Nevertheless, I continued inching up and when I reached the top I saw a spectacular

male Great Argus looking right at me from the middle of the trail. Perhaps it was anticipating danger but was

reluctant to leave its stage while its rivals were still singing. On seeing me it made a quick exit but not before

giving me good views. Earlier on my way up, the first bird of the day was a Blue-headed Pitta (yet another

but always extraordinary) past the small suspension bridge over the Palun Tambun stream connecting to the

Nature Trail. I had excellent views of a family group of Bornean Gibbons as they moved past only 5 feet

above my head. A Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher (unresponsive) was seen in a feeding flock and then the

Great Argus episode (above) happened. I hiked for 2.5 km more before turning back but I didn’t add anything

new to the trip. Particularly disappointing was the complete lack of vocalization from Blue-banded Pitta

anywhere along the trail and failure to see calling Yellow-crowned Barbets even after many intensive tries.

Instead I had yet more good looks at a Black-crowned Pitta and heard Bornean Banded Pitta (most likely

the same individual I had seen before). Back on the Nature Trail I saw another Blue-headed Pitta – becoming

the first and the last bird of this AM. This one was sitting on a bench below the platform-tree. On detecting my

approach it seemed to get disoriented, dropping to the ground and hopping in random directions before flying.

Only two new species were added this morning so I was quite disappointed as I was expecting to add at least

two more difficult species in the AM. To make matters worse, it started raining after lunch and didn’t stop for

any reasonable amount of time till dusk, preventing any more birding.

21-AUG [DVFC]

This was the last full day at DVFC and I was really hoping

for a productive day to make up for yesterday’s slim

pickings, in particular I was very keen on seeing the three

wren-babblers. My luck turned around quite well this AM

and I had excellent views of all three wren-babblers

within 2 hours of each other. First came the Striped

Wren-Babbler at W3, then the endemic Black-throated

Wren-Babbler at W6 and finally the endemic Bornean

Wren-Babbler at a stream crossing between W7 & W8.

The wren-babblers are one of my favorite bird families

and all three lowland species in Borneo are strikingly

patterned and scarce, making them particularly coveted

by birders. Soon after watching the Black-throated Wren-

Babbler, I heard a Giant Pitta relatively close by but yet

again failed to see it even after plenty of effort. There was

a flock of the smartly dressed Crested Jay at W9. At W10N2 I heard an interesting call from close range but

there was no sign of the bird. Recording its call and playing it back resulted in the bird leaping out of its hideout

6 m above the ground (outstanding camouflage) and landing briefly on a branch above my head before flying

away. It was a scarce Malaysian Honeyguide and I was very glad to connect with this tricky species. Back at

W10, the endemic Bornean Blue Flycatcher finally obliged (until now had heard it several times before

without seeing it). Further exploration of the Grid yielded good views of previously seen species.

This PM I decided to climb the 40 m platform-tree. I divided my time across both the lower (20 m) and upper

platforms (40 m). While the climb is non-trivial, it is totally worth it for its views. From here I had great views

of Whiskered Treeswift (one of the most unique face patterns in the bird world). Also Lesser Cuckooshrike,

Large Woodshrike and a huge White-bellied Woodpecker from close range. The best species though came

Striped Wren-Babbler, DVFC


just before dusk: two Bornean Bristlehead were seen feeding on a distant tree. Their striking black and red

plumage was unmistakable even from a distance. I tried to call them in but they did not come even though they

might have heard the tape. I made it a point to rush up the Tembaling Waterfall Trail next morning because

based on the position of the tree I calculated that they might roost somewhere close to the trail and hence,

might spend time on the ridge at dawn.

22-AUG [DVFC; Lahad Datu to Kota Kinabalu to Gunung Alab]

This was my last morning at DVFC and my plan was to go up the Tembaling Waterfall Trail. There was no

sign of last evening’s Bristleheads and a repeat try for the Great Argus didn’t succeed. Just like before I waited

until I heard the pheasant at its stage and then inched up to it but the bird had already moved away. I tried for

Blue-banded Pitta at a few places but there was no response. In fact the only new bird for the morning was a

Checker-throated Woodpecker. A rather poor showing indeed but part of my mind had already reframed to

the mountains and its endemics so it didn’t hurt much. I did have one more encounter with an Orangutan

before turning back. I was back at the rest-house relatively early at 12.30 pm, had lunch and checked out at 1:35

pm. On my way to Lahad Datu (by an expensive charter), I had the first Blyth’s Hawk-Eagle of the trip on

the access road. Also eye-level views of more Whiskered Treeswift.

My Maswings flight from Lahad Datu to Kota Kinabalu was at 5:15 pm but I was at the check-in counter at

3:40 pm. I asked them to put me on the 4:00 pm flight and they readily agreed. It took me less than 5 minutes

to get my boarding pass and reach the gate, where boarding was already on. Once in BKI, I took my pre-booked

Thrifty rental car (Malaysian made Hyundai I-10 compact, automatic, low clear) from their airport counter,

packed some donuts for the drive and headed straight for Gunung Alab in the Crocker Range National Park.

In an hour I reached the Gunung Alab Motel where I checked in for one night.

23-AUG [Gunung Alab, Rafflesia Information Center; To Kundasang (Mt Kinabalu)]

The plan for today was to explore the RIC grounds and

surroundings (3 km west, 3 km east) and the road up to the Gunung

Alab sub-station until I find the Bornean & Mountain Barbets,

Bornean Leafbird, Bornean Bulbul, Cinereous Bulbul, Fruit-hunter

and Whitehead’s Spiderhunter. I planned to start with the RIC

where the barbets are most likely to be encountered. On my drive

towards the RIC I ran into a huge road side flock with Bornean

Leafbird, Ashy Drongo, Ruddy Cuckoo-Dove, Grey-throated

Babbler, Bornean Whistler, Chestnut-hooded

Laughingthrush, Chestnut-crested Yuhina and Indigo

Flycatcher. A few more stops for movements along the highway

yielded Little Cuckoo-Dove (which would be encountered very

often from then on) and Black-and-crimson Oriole. On reaching

the RIC (parked just outside the closed gate) the first bird I heard

was a Mountain Barbet from a tree just inside the RIC wall. But

while searching for it I found a Bornean Barbet instead. It was

silently feeding on that tree (in fact I heard this species only a few

times compared to the other two endemic barbets). Few more minutes of effort yielded the Mountain Barbet

anyhow. There was also a Temminck’s Sunbird on the same tree. With this initial success I thought I would

see many more of both species but I was wrong. These would be my only sightings although Mountain Barbet

was common by voice – they were incessantly calling throughout the day. All the barbets seemed to become

very sedentary after mid-morning. Walking up and down around the RIC yielded small flocks that held Golden-

naped Barbet (common by voice), Bornean Treepie, Bornean Bulbul, Sunda Cuckooshrike, Sunda

Indigo Flycatcher, RIC


Laughingthrush, Blyth’s Shrike Babbler, Cinereous Bulbul, Grey-chinned Minivet and Long-billed

Spiderhunter. Then I decided to drive back to Gunung Alab Motel to check out and have lunch. Roadside

stops on my drive back yielded a brilliant Fruit-hunter, one of the main targets here. It was silent and

unresponsive to playback. I also saw Mountain Imperial-Pigeons and yet more Dusky Munia.

After lunch and check-out, I drove up the road to the Gunung Alab sub-station (it starts right opposite to the

motel) and birded there for two hours. Sunda Bush-Warbler was very common in road side scrub. I also came

across a flock with Mountain Leaf-Warbler, Yellow-breasted Warbler and Black-capped White-eye.

There was no sign of my last major target, Whitehead’s Spiderhunter so I decided to head down to the RIC.

A Blyth’s Hawk-Eagle was seen soaring from a lookout between Gunung Alab & RIC. A quick stop in the

RIC yielded Long-billed Spiderhunter & Bornean Spiderhunter (also seen in Sepilok & DVFC). I then

decided to bird further east of RIC (beyond 3 km) and come back to RIC at 4:00 pm. I found that the habitat

quickly deteriorated beyond 5 km so I headed back up to about 3 km and found a Pygmy White-eye, a much-

wanted species that I knew occurred here but was not expecting to see here. I returned to RIC earlier than

planned at 3:45 pm only to find the gate closed (well before the 5:00 pm closing time). So I birded outside and

came across a mixed flock. Suddenly a Whitehead’s Spiderhunter made an appearance and flew away rather

quickly. I immediately tried to lure it back but failed. Ochraceous Bulbul was the last new bird in this area.

With all targets in the bag, at 5:00 pm I started driving towards Kundasang (near Mt Kinabalu), which would

be my base for the next 4 nights. I checked into Cottage Hotel at 6:45 pm and was pleasantly surprised they

made good vegetarian food. I was so hungry I devoured two full Malay entrees (char kway teow & curry mee).

24-AUG [Kinabalu NP]

I entered through the gate of the park HQ at 6:00 am

and drove up the Power Station Road (PSR) to the

Timpohon Gate (TG). My plan was to hike the Bukit

Ular Trail from its upper end. The drive produced

Eye-browed Jungle-Flycatcher and Bornean

Whistling-Thrush. On reaching the top I saw that

the trail was closed for repairs to damages from the

recent earthquake. So I decided to walk down the

PSR and enter through the lower end of the trail.

There was a foreign birding tour group there which

seemed to have the same idea and we found ourselves

walking down at the same time. A feeding flock near the upper Liwagu Trail head held two surprises – two

Pale-faced Bulbul (below its usual elevation range) and even more surprisingly, two Everett’s White-eye

(above its usual elevation range). After about 10 minutes I think their tour leader realized that I might be heading

for the Bukit Ular Trail so he bundled his participants into their vehicle (which was following them slowly) and

overtook me. They were looking for the Everett’s Thrush (overheard) so the leader probably wanted to be on

the trail first. So I decided to continue walking down the PSR and then go down the Mempening Trail. For

Everett’s Thrush, I changed strategy from Bukit Ular to looking for it in the dead of the afternoon along the

PSR. In the Mempening Trail I had a Lilliputian army of Mountain Wren-Babblers, whose foraging behavior

is easily the most unique of all wren-babblers. Also good looks at ssp P. t. kinabaluensis of the Mountain Leaf-

Warbler, whose economy of yellow makes it look very different from their Crocker Range counterparts. Many

montane species already seen in Crocker Range were also seen here (see accounts in annotated trip list).

From Mempening Trail I took the Bukit Tupai Trail and connected with the Silau-Silau Trail. A large mixed

feeding flock across the Silau-Silau stream held many Sunda and Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrushes but not

the scarce Bare-headed. An amazing Bornean Green Magpie appeared in the rear of this flock, as did a pair

Mountain Wren Babbler, Kinabalu NP


of Crimson-winged Woodpecker. Nothing new showed up till I reconnected with the PSR through the upper

Silau-Silau trailhead. I hung out near the shelter at the junction to see if anything showed up in the open.

Nothing did and I began walking up the PSR. But no sooner than I did I caught wind of a movement near the

trailhead. I turned around to see a male Whitehead’s Trogon at eye-level right on the edge of the road. Its

colors have to be seen at close range to be believed, easily

one of the top contenders for the most beautiful trogon in

the world. I soon realized it was a family group, adult male,

adult female and what looked like a sub-adult male based

on evidence of molting at this time of the year. I resumed

my 3 km hike up the PSR from Silau-Silau to TG. Just past

the ‘Kiau Gap’ viewpoint I saw two birds foraging on the

side of the road. They were Everett’s Thrush! Considered

to be the most difficult montane endemic here. On seeing

me, they flew to a nearby low branch, lingered long enough

for great views, even a photo and then disappeared into

the darkness. It was 1:30 pm and I felt smug that my

alternate strategy to see this species was hugely successful.

It was quite birdy between the Liwagu trailhead and the

Timpohon Gate but nothing new was added.

I had a packed lunch of simple sandwiches in my car, then drove down to the Liwagu Restaurant parking lot. I

birded around the lot and then went up the steep Pandanus trail. A huge flock of laughingthrushes was in the

broad gully on the right at the bottom of the trail but no sign of Bare-headed. Near the top of Pandanus where

the slopes on either side of the trail is almost level with the trail, I speculatively played Red-breasted Partridge.

This resulted in an immediate response from close range and then I saw a covey of 3 making their way straight

towards me. They crossed the trail and settled in an area of dense brush. Once ensconced in their hiding spot

they sang for about ten more minutes, perhaps unaware that they were still easily visible to me. Once I was

back at the Liwagu Restaurant, I decided to drive around hoping to find flower patches (that might be visited

by interesting species before dusk). I didn’t have to go too far. Some flowers near the Gallery building held a

colorful Bornean Flowerpecker. I heard several unresponsive Collared Owlets. I wanted to try for the

Mountain Scops Owl and Bornean Frogmouth after dusk (1 hour to dusk) but activity was already down to

zero and trails were too dark. So I drove out of the park to the nearby Kinabalu Mountain Lodge hoping I’ll

find something vegetarian to eat there. The very steep and very narrow approach road to this lodge had some

interesting flocks. At the lodge I found out that preparing food will take more time than I could afford. So

instead, I birded for a bit from their balcony that overlooks forest edge and an interesting garden. Then I was

slowly driving down the access road hoping to spot some birds when a movement on the road caught my eye.

It turned out to be an Orange-headed Thrush, a rare species here. Back in the park at dusk I tried for Bornean

Frogmouth & Mountain Scops Owl at many places along the PSR. A Mountain Scops-Owl called just once

and unsurprisingly there was no sign of the frogmouth at all. I drove back to my hotel in Kundasang for yet

another heavy dinner after a successful day.

25-AUG [Kinabalu NP]

I drove up the PSR straight to the lower end of the Bukit Ular trail, finding Bornean Forktail enroute right on

the middle of the road. Even though Everett’s Thrush was off my list I was still hoping to find species such as

Crimson-headed Partridge, Bornean Stubtail and Whitehead’s Broadbill, for which this trail is reportedly good.

Of these I only saw the Bornean Stubtail. This species was heard in many spots along the trail but was mostly

unresponsive. But eventually I found a pair walking very close to the trail. I also heard the partridge from very

close range but it was unresponsive. Also seen were Snowy-browed Flycatcher & Mountain Tailorbird.

Everett's Thrush, Kinabalu NP


Today was my planned Summit Trail day to look for Friendly Bush-Warbler, Mountain Black-eye and Island

Thrush. So after Bukit Ular I drove to the Timpohon Gate. But to my horror, the trail was closed. It was

undergoing repairs and the earliest it would open was sometime in September. No amount of explanation about

the warbler could convince them to let me go. From the terrace of the gate I saw many swifts and I concluded

that they were Bornean Swiftlet (altitudinal parapatry) and Waterfall Swiftlet (large size). I am not entirely

sure about the former because imo elevation is not always a reliable identifier. Best of all though was when a

soaring Mountain Serpent Eagle came into view from the valley to the east.

I drove down and parked near the Silau-Silau – PSR junction and started walking down the upper Kiau View

Trail. My plan was to connect from Kiau View to the PSR near Liwagu Restaurant using the Pandanus Trail,

have lunch there and then walk up the Silau-Silau Trail to my car. At the very entrance to upper Kiau View was

a really cool Whitehead’s Pygmy Squirrel (absurd ear tufts!). The first bird on this trail turned out to be an

amazing Crimson-headed Partridge male. The hike down to Liwagu Restaurant was quite birdy. I also had

one more sighting of Crimson-headed Partridge. But there were no new birds till the very bottom of Pandanus,

where in the broad gully was a flock of Temminck’s Babblers. I walked into the Liwagu Restaurant just as it

started raining so that was good timing. I opted to eat at a table on the rear porch so that I could look out for

birds at the edge of the garden. This paid off very nicely as I had four Mountain Black-eyes feeding on a tree

adjacent to the porch even in drizzle. This sighting was quite fortunate because the closing of the Summit Trail

prevented me from getting to their usual heights. I later learnt that this was the lowest this species can be seen

in Mt Kinabalu and it comes down here only if food is scarce higher up.

Unfortunately the rain only got heavier after lunch. I was waiting on the front porch of the restaurant when a

very friendly man came by and we started chatting. He turned out to be CK Leong of ‘Borneo Birds’ and we

had a nice conversation about birding. When it was time for him to leave, he very kindly drove me to my car,

which was parked a kilometer away near the Silau-Silau trailhead. I

drove down to LR and waited until the rain stopped at 3:00 pm. I

then hiked up the Silau-Silau Trail and then back down to LR via

PSR. On Silau-Silau I again had good views of Red-breasted Partridge

and some woodpeckers (Checker-throated & Maroon).

Back at the hotel I made a solid plan for tomorrow. I only had two

remaining targets: Whitehead’s Broadbill and Bare-headed

Laughingthrush. And there was no sign of these two in the higher

areas at all. So I planned to explore the lower areas in the morning,

in particular lower Mempening, lower Liwagu and lower Silau-Silau.

If I succeed in finding both before lunch then I would head to Poring

to try for goodies like Blue-banded Pitta, White-necked Babbler,

Rufous-collared Kingfisher, Hose’s Broadbill, Scaly-breasted Bulbul

and many more.

26-AUG [Kinabalu NP; Poring]

As planned last night, I would use the Bukit Tupai Trail to get to the

lower Mempening Trail which would later connect with the lower

Liwagu Trail. On Bukit Tupai I saw yet another Crimson-headed Partridge. On Mempening I came across a

large feeding flock where I saw a Ferruginous Flycatcher (arrived on its wintering ground much earlier than

usual). I saw that the flock was most active at the bottom of the valley. Hoping that a Whitehead’s Broadbill

might be lurking down there I played its call. The response was immediate and aggressive – a male came up the

valley flying from branch to branch before finally reaching a branch above my head. All Calyptomena broadbills

are mind-blowing but this giant blob of emerald is the most impressive imo.

Whitehead's Broadbill, Kinabalu NP


Later I connected with the lower Liwagu Trail. Shortly after that I thought I heard some laughingthrushes. I

played Bare-headed but there was no response. After a minute I decided to move on but just then I heard their

loud calls from close by. But they wouldn’t come in and remained hidden in inaccessible undergrowth. So I just

waited. After a few minutes one popped up on a tree whose crown was visible to me. Then one by one, more

followed. I played the tape again and surprisingly once they were out of cover, they seemed to be more

interested in my playback. All came in to great views. There were five Bare-headed Laughingthrush in that

flock (and no other laughingthrush species). It was 10:30 am now and I was very satisfied that I was done with

all my montane targets in little over 3 days only (1 day in Crocker Range, 2 days & 4:30 hours in Mt Kinabalu).

So I headed for Poring Hot Springs.

It was 11:45 pm by the time I reached Poring

Hot Springs (which is a part of Kinabalu NP). I

had lunch in the car park and it was 12:30 pm

by the time I started walking in. Midday activity

in the open was very poor and I didn’t see a

single bird around the hot springs themselves.

So I quickly entered the Langanan Waterfall

Trail. The habitat along the first 800 m is quite

disturbed, there was a proliferation of dense

scrub and creepers. I thought this would be

productive for bulbuls so I planned to be back

here just before dusk when the bulbuls would

be active. In fact, I heard Scaly-breasted Bulbul

here but it was unresponsive in the midday heat.

At the 1st stream crossing there were some

Yellow-bellied Warbler in a flock. Also saw a

Banded Broadbill here (5th sighting of this

wonderful species in this trip). Reached the ‘Bat Cave’ (looks like a bunch of huge boulders) but no sign of any

of my targets there. In particular I tried for Blue-banded Pitta and Rufous-collared Kingfisher, to no avail. The

ridge just above the cave, reportedly a hotspot of past successes, delivered exactly zero birds. I reached the 2nd

stream thinking this wasn’t going very well. And to make matters worse, scanning for kingfishers there didn’t

reveal anything. But anticipating their presence in that habitat I played Rufous-collared Kingfisher just once.

Instantly a male Rufous-collared Kingfisher flew in right over my head and settled on a conspicuous branch

for 10 minutes. Walkaway views of this forest gem really had my spirits up. Walking up the trail I reached a hill

top with plenty of strangler figs and sparse undergrowth. Here I heard White-necked Babbler but the bird

was nowhere in sight. On playing the tape I got responses from two territories but quite disappointingly, they

just wouldn’t show. Then I reached an area that was obviously dominated by thick bamboo clumps. Here I

tried for Blue-banded Pitta but there was no response. I hung around there for a long time and played it again

and this time I got a response. But the bird was quite far away. So I continued up the trail. A short distance

away (at 880 masl) I again heard a Blue-banded Pitta. This was from down the slope to my right and I thought

I had a much better chance to see this one. Soon another bird started calling from the same slope. Although

they were both very secretive and did not want to get close to the trail, I was able to get acceptable views of

one of these stunning endemics through dense vegetation after one hour of trying. This wait also produced an

exquisite Malayan Weasel, its soft golden coat & lithe movements were a sight to behold. Just past the 2 km

marker I found some Crested Jays but I also saw a green bird shoot through the air close to the jays. I got very

excited thinking it was a Hose’s Broadbill but the binoculars revealed that it was a Whitehead’s Broadbill. In

fact there were three in the vicinity. Lack of fruits higher up must have brought them lower - an uncommon

occurrence. Also saw a Chestnut-backed Scimitar-Babbler here. This species is regularly seen in DVFC but

Rufous-collared Kingfisher, Poring


I failed to even hear its distinctive call there. On my way back down, the bulbuls were active in the expected

area. I soon heard Scaly-breasted Bulbul and the tape lured in two individuals immediately. Also several scarce

Black-headed Bulbul in the same area, flying behind one another just before settling to roost. Then I drove

back to Kundasang, satisfied by the day’s proceeds.

27-AUG [Kinabalu NP; To Kota Kinabalu; To Kuala Lumpur; To New Delhi]

My plan was to bird for about 2 hours in the park and start driving to Kota Kinabalu at 8:15 am. My Malaysia Airlines flight to Kuala Lumpur from BKI was at 11:50 am. For unknown reasons the guard at the gate did not charge me for entrance today. I had no real targets for today but I thought maybe I can work the PSR to try for better views of Whitehead’s Spiderhunter. But there was no sign of it. Nevertheless, I had good views of some other common species. I left exactly at 8:15 am, reached BKI by 10:00 am, flew out to KUL at 11:50 am. I reached New Delhi by midnight (Malaysia Airlines flight from KLIA to New Delhi got delayed by 2:30 hours).

Annotated Trip List: Birds

1 Tabon Scrubfowl Megapodius cumingii S Also known as the Philippine Megapode, it is common and tame on Selingaan Island.

2 Red-breasted Partridge Arborophila hyperythra S A common sound in Kinabalu NP. Seen twice: 3 near the top of Pandanus where the slope on either side of the trail goes almost level with the trail and then 2 on Upper Silau-Silau walking just above the stream bed. On Pandanus, I taped it in after I heard it close to the trail but unresponsive elsewhere.

3 Chestnut-necklaced Partridge Arborophila charltonii H Heard a few times in DVFC.

4 Great Argus Argusianus argus S [NT] 1 seen in DVFC at its dancing stage on top of the first hill along the Tembaling Waterfall Trail. I waited below the slope until it called in response to other neighboring individuals. That confirmed its presence on its stage. Then I slowly crept up on it. Did this twice, met with success once. Common by voice in Poring. Also heard in Kinabatangan.

5 Crimson-headed Partridge Haematortyx sanguiniceps S A common sound in Kinabalu NP. Seen 3 times right on the trails: twice upper Kiau View and once Bukit Tupai. Always in a hurry to disappear after my presence is detected. Didn’t seem to be tape responsive at all even when it is close by.

6 Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus S A few by the Menanggol tributary (Kinabatangan).

7 Crested Fireback Lophura ignita S Only one seen (on my way by shuttle from Lahad Datu to DVFC). Seen well on the middle of the road. Then it moved to the side of the road where it lingered until the car almost moved past. Suddenly it freaked out and spectacularly high jumped into dense road side scrub. I was expecting to see more in the upcoming days in DVFC but didn't get a whiff.

8 Storm's Stork Ciconia stormi S [EN] Two in the Kinabatangan Jungle Camp grounds where it roosts daily and one along the Menanggol.

9 Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster S [NT] Still fairly common in the Lower Kinabatangan system, contrary to its declining status in South East Asia.

10 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea S A few along the Kinabatangan.

11 Great Egret Ardea alba S Scattered sightings.

12 Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia S Scattered sightings.

13 Little Egret Egretta garzetta S Scattered sightings.

14 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis S Scattered sightings.

15 Striated Heron Butorides striata S One near the Sandakan jetty.

16 Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax S Many on the Kinabatangan at dusk on sand bars or debris.

17 Osprey Pandion haliaetus S One along the Kinabatangan on our way out to Bilit jetty from KJC. Supposedly a very uncommon bird here.

18 Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus S Once each in Kinabatangan, DVFC.

19 Jerdon's Baza Aviceda jerdoni S One perched far away in Sepilok RDC.

20 Mountain Serpent-Eagle Spilornis kinabaluensis S [VU] One from the terrace at the Timpohon Gate.


21 Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela S A few in Kinabatangan, Sepilok & DVFC.

22 Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus S A nesting pair on a large tree by the Kinabatangan river. Strangely, didn’t see it hunting over the Gomantong Caves.

23 Changeable Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus limnaeetus S Several sightings in the Kinabatangan area. A dark morph seen soaring over DVFC approach road.

24 Blyth's Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus alboniger S I was expecting to see many in Crocker Range but the gloomy weather there did not help. Still ended up seeing one soaring from a valley lookout between Gunung Alab & RIC. Also another one over the DVFC approach road.

25 Wallace's Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nanus S [VU] Fairly common in the forested lowlands - Sepilok, Kinabatangan & DVFC.

26 Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii S A pair on a large tree close to the Kinabatangan river.

27 Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis S One soaring high over the Menanggol.

28 Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus S One near the entrance of the Menanggol tributary at Sukau.

29 Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus S Common in the Kinabatangan area and open countryside.

30 White-bellied Sea-Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster S Several in the Kinabatangan area and a low flying individual mobbed by smaller birds between Ranau & Poring.

31 Lesser Fish-Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis S [NT] Several very good sightings on the Tenanggang & Menanggol tributaries.

32 Grey-headed Fish-Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus S [NT] A few sightings in the Kinabatangan area.

33 Barred Rail Gallirallus torquatus S Fairly common at the meeting of mangrove & beach in Selingaan Island. At least 10 seen at different times & locations. This is a recent addition to the checklist of Borneo, expanding its range from the nearby Philippines or Sulawesi.

34 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus S Scattered sightings both in the plains and hills.

35 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos S One unseasonal bird along the Kinabatangan.

36 Great Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii S Fairly common from the boat between Selingaan & Sandakan.

37 Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis S A few from the boat between Selingaan & Sandakan.

38 Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis S In human settlements and also forest edge at Sepilok.

39 Ruddy Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia emiliana S A pair between Gunung Alab & RIC.

40 Little Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia ruficeps S Very common in the Crocker Range and Kinabalu NP.

41 Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica S Common in tropical forest interiors of both plains & hills.

42 Little Green-Pigeon Treron olax S Commonly seen in all lowland forests.

43 Pink-necked Pigeon Treron vernans S Commonly seen in all lowland forests.

44 Large Green-Pigeon Treron capellei S [VU] One at the Sepilok B&B and another sighting in the DVFC approach road. Seems quite scarce.

45 Green Imperial-Pigeon Ducula aenea S Commonly seen in all lowland forests.

46 Mountain Imperial-Pigeon Ducula badia S Common in Kinabalu NP and Crocker Range.

47 Dark Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx bocki H One heard behind the Rafflesia Information Center. Some authorities still consider this taxon to be conspecific with Large Hawk-Cuckoo H. sparverioides.

48 Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx vagans S [NT] In Kinabatangan, one very uncooperative bird teased us from a dense tangle high up on a trail side tree. Remained HO even after Romzi, Robert & me tried to find it as it sat motionless and continuously calling for 30 mins. It continued to distract even as we were about to focus on a calling Bornean Ground Cuckoo. Later a frustrating flyby on the DVFC approach road.

49 Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus H One heard in the KJC trail system.

50 Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus S One seen along the Menanggol tributary.

51 Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus H Two individuals heard along the Menanggol tributary. Apparently not uncommon in the Kinabatangan area.

52 Bornean Ground-Cuckoo Carpococcyx radiceus H [NT] In an otherwise successful trip, missing this species despite coming excruciatingly close is a dark cloud lingering over me even as I am writing this. Ground-cuckoos are my favorite family and this was easily my No.1 target in Borneo. At 7 am on our 3rd day we heard two individuals at the same time from the boat along the Kinabatangan. They were most likely in neighboring territories. The terrain necessitated disembarking & walking into the bush while the birds were still distant. Suffice to say that eventually after 2 hours of intense effort & exhausting our ample bag of tactics & several very close shaves, I managed to see a TAIL. I certainly don't need more convincing that nature can sometimes be brutally cruel.


53 Black-bellied Malkoha Phaenicophaeus diardi S One flew across the Menanggol tributary.

54 Raffles's Malkoha Phaenicophaeus chlorophaeus S This really beautiful species was usually seen in male-female pairs in Sepilok, Kinabatangan and DVFC.

55 Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Phaenicophaeus curvirostris S The most commonly seen cuculidae in lowland forest.

56 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis S Kinabatangan riverside & DVFC approach road.

57 Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis S Kinabatangan riverside scrub.

58 Oriental Bay-Owl Phodilus badius S One brilliant bird spot lit during the night walk in the Sepilok RDC. Heard during night boat ride in the Kinabatangan but did not try for it as we were focused on a Large Frogmouth.

59 Mountain Scops-Owl Otus spilocephalus H One heard near the Upper Silau-Silau trail head.

60 Barred Eagle-Owl Bubo sumatranus S Awesome sighting of two birds from the boardwalk to the Gomantong Cave. It was unclear if the hordes of nearby bulbuls were aware of their presence.

61 Buffy Fish-Owl Ketupa ketupu S Fairly common along the Kinabatangan at night. Usually perched low above the water on water's edge vegetation. Also heard near the DVFC restaurant/rest-house every night.

62 Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei H Heard at dusk and dawn in Kinabalu NP.

63 Large Frogmouth Batrachostomus auritus H [NT] On our first night boat ride on the Kinabatangan, we came very close to seeing this bird. It responded to our tape from very close by the bank so we disembarked to see it. Usually it perches in conspicuous places where it is easy to spot. In fact, Romzi has never missed it after hearing it from so close. It was just our bad luck that it chose to sit on a high branch above a broad & dense leafy tangle. We tried different viewing positions for an hour but the bird never moved. Heard again during another night boat ride.

64 Silver-rumped Needletail Rhaphidura leucopygialis S Fairly common in the clearings outside the DVFC restaurant and also from the nearby suspension bridge to the Grid.

65 Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus S Several from the Sepilok RDC Canopy Walk.

66 Waterfall Swift Hydrochous gigas S [NT] Large swifts from the Timpohon Gate terrace were very likely to be this scarce species (no other possibilities afaik).

67 Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta S Sightings at all sites except higher up in Kinabalu NP. Also seen nesting at the mouth of the Gomantong Cave (they lack the echolocation capabilities of the Aerodramus swiftlets).

68 Bornean Swiftlet Collocalia dodgei S Not sure if this taxon can be separated from Glossy unless the bird is in hand. However, I've assumed that higher elevation birds above the Timpohon Gate in Kinabalu NP are C. dodgei based on elevational parapatry.

69 Mossy-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus salangana S These three Aerodramus swiftlets are virtually indistinguishable in the field. We found good numbers of all three species at their diagnostic nests inside the Gomantong Cave.

70 Black-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus maximus S See above (69).

71 White-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus S See above (69). Famous for their edible nests. We witnessed a ceremony of sorts by local people in the car park, heralding the start of a nest collecting expedition.

72 Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis S Common near human habitations.

73 Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis S Seen in DVFC in the afternoons over the clearings just outside the resthouse/restaurant.

74 Whiskered Treeswift Hemiprocne comata S This unique swift was quite common locally along the DVFC approach road. Also from the canopy Tower on the Nature Trail from where it could be seen making sallies over the canopy and then settling on bare branches of the canopy. Never in the DVFC clearings or the suspension bridge.

75 Red-naped Trogon Harpactes kasumba S [NT] Seen well in Sepilok (Belian Trail) and DVFC.

76 Diard's Trogon Harpactes diardii S [NT] Seen well in Sepilok (from the Canopy Walkway, first seen right through the floor grill), Kinabatangan & DVFC.

77 Whitehead's Trogon Harpactes whiteheadi S [NT] Easily one of the top 3 most beautiful trogons of the world. Excellent prolonged views of a family group (adult male, female, sub-adult) seen hunting at eye level from the PSR near the Upper Silau-Silau trail head. Never heard. Seems very scarce.

78 Scarlet-rumped Trogon Harpactes duvaucelii S [NT] Seen in Menanggol tributary and twice in DVFC (Tembaling Waterfall Trail & the Grid).


79 White-crowned Hornbill Berenicornis comatus S [NT] This mega bird is a major target in the Kinabatangan area (although possible in DVFC too). It is the easiest-to-miss hornbill of this trip. A group of 5 adults seen very well along the Tenanggang tributary just before dusk. We heard them first and then with just one burst of playback, they flew in low over the trees, crossed the narrow river and settled on the top of a bare tree which was clearly visible from the boat.

80 Helmeted Hornbill Buceros vigil S [NT] Yet another mega and easy to miss hornbill. The male with the tail extensions is a spectacular primordial looking giant. I missed this in the Kinabatangan area (where it is becoming rare) but was happy to commonly hear their remarkable vocalization in DVFC. On my first morning in the Tembaling Waterfall Trail, an individual was calling from a very tall emergent tree. I was standing at its base but the closed canopy made it very difficult to find it. I decided to try the tape but no sooner than I played it, the hornbill stopped calling. 30 seconds of silence passed and I was still standing, looking straight up when the unthinkable happened - a huge shape emerged from the very top, turned and came gliding right down into the lower strata with its heavy wingbeats filling the air. It was a grotesque male Helmeted Hornbill with full tail extensions, blood red wrinkly throat & a disproportionate casque, almost at eye level. We sized each other up for a while. Then when I decided it was time to click a photo, the beast decided not to oblige and flew away as impressively as it came.

81 Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros S [NT] Yet another forest giant declining because of deforestation and hunting for casques. A very impressive flock of 24 flew low along our boat just before dusk on the Kinabatangan. No doubt they were looking for a safe place to roost as a group. More sightings of feeding groups along the Kinabatangan and a few sightings in DVFC as well.

82 Bushy-crested Hornbill Anorrhinus galeritus S Only seen along the Kinabatangan and Menanggol.

83 Black Hornbill Anthracoceros malayanus S [NT] The 2nd most common hornbill. Seen well in Sepilok, Kinabatangan area and DVFC.

84 Oriental Pied-Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris S The most common hornbill. Seen well in Sepilok, Kinabatangan area and DVFC.

85 Wreathed Hornbill Rhyticeros undulatus S One flew by above the Gomantong Cave and further three sightings in DVFC.

86 Wrinkled Hornbill Rhabdotorrhinus corrugatus S [NT] Several excellent sightings in Kinabatangan & DVFC. Particularly memorable was a tree with 16 individuals along the Kinabatangan river.

87 Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting S Common along the Kinabatangan river system.

88 Rufous-backed Dwarf-Kingfisher

Ceyx rufidorsa motleyi Most Oriental Dwarf-Kingfisher type birds seen were of the black-backed form but one in Sepilok had a rufous back. There seems to be no consensus on the taxonomy, distribution and status yet of the ODKF in Borneo. This is still considered by most to be a form of Oriental Dwarf-Kingfisher C. rufidorsa.

89 Black-backed Dwarf-Kingfisher

Ceyx erithaca S The black backed form of the Oriental Dwarf-Kingfisher complex was seen several times in forest interiors, contrary to assertions that it is a vagrant to Borneo. Sometimes considered to be a full species (which is how I treat it in this report). Seen in Sepilok, Kinabatangan, and DVFC.

90 Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis S This huge kingfisher was common in the Kinabatangan area.

91 Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris S Common in Selingaan Island and also along major roads.

92 Rufous-collared Kingfisher Actenoides concretus S [NT] This incredibly beautiful kingfisher was seen well at Poring at the stream crossing after the bat cave. I didn’t see anything there on scanning but anticipating its presence in that habitat I played the tape once. It flew in (right over my head) almost immediately and settled down on a conspicuous branch for 10 minutes.

93 Red-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis amictus S One far away individual in Sepilok at the end of the Kingfisher Trail was all I could get.

94 Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis S Very common in the Kinabatangan area, where regularly seen sallying for insects over the rivers.

95 Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis S Common in the Kinabatangan area. Also seen in DVFC.


96 Bornean Brown Barbet Calorhamphus fuliginosus S Has a whistling call that is very unlike the Megalaima/Psilopogon barbets. Seen several times in the lowland forests of Sepilok, Kinabatangan and DVFC.

97 Blue-eared Barbet Psilopogon duvaucelii S Commonly heard in Kinabatangan & Sepilok, also seen. Also heard in DVFC.

98 Bornean Barbet Psilopogon eximius S Heard only a few times around the Rafflesia Information Center. Only one seen - a silent individual at dawn on a bare tree just inside the RIC compound as I was trying to get on a calling Mountain Barbet. The best chance to see the 3 endemic Psilopogon barbets at Crocker Range would be just after dawn and before dusk. At other times they seem to prefer settling down on secret perches just below the upper edge of canopies and calling incessantly like frogs.

99 Red-throated Barbet Psilopogon mystacophanos S [NT] Several sightings in the Kinabatangan area. Quite vocal.

100 Golden-naped Barbet Psilopogon pulcherrimus S Very commonly heard around the RIC, Gunung Alab and Kinabalu NP. Seen a few times in Crocker Range and once in Kinabalu NP (from the Kiau Gap viewpoint).

101 Yellow-crowned Barbet Psilopogon henricii H [NT] This ace canopy skulker and ventriloquist remained a heard-only even after lot of effort to see it. One of the hardest birds to see evidently. It did not help matters that it was absent close to the DVFC canopy Tower. Would have been a lifer.

102 Mountain Barbet Psilopogon monticola S The most commonly heard barbet around the Rafflesia Information Center. Two seen well at dawn but highly inconspicuous and never easy to see even if calling from very close by. Also heard at the lower levels of Kinabalu NP and seen in the Kinabalu Mountain Lodge grounds.

103 Golden-whiskered Barbet Psilopogon chrysopsis S This large barbet was commonly heard at all elevations. Seen a few times. Some authorities use Gold-faced Barbet as common name for this taxon (which is a terrible name imo).

104 Malaysian Honeyguide Indicator archipelagicus S [NT] One adult of this scarce species in DVFC (Grid W10N2). Unseen at first despite calling from close by about 10 m from the ground. Showed itself after recording its call & playing it back. It is amazing how well it blends with leaves.

105 Rufous Piculet Sasia abnormis S Faint tapping heard many times from low thickets in disturbed habitat at many sites was likely to be of this species. Seen twice in DVFC (Grid W2, W3), maybe same individual.

106 Sunda Woodpecker Dendrocopos moluccensis S Seen only once (Selingaan Island).

107 White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis S Seen only once. From the DVFC canopy Tower.

108 Crimson-winged Woodpecker

Picus puniceus S Seen twice in Kinabalu NP, always in mixed flocks (Lower Silau-Silau and PSR near Upper Mempening Trail head).

109 Checker-throated Woodpecker

Picus mentalis S One lone individual in DVFC (Tembaling Waterfall Trail) and several sightings in Kinabalu NP (mixed flocks).

110 Olive-backed Woodpecker Dinopium rafflesii S [NT] Once in DVFC (Grid W3). Seemed to stalk me all the way to W5 even though I never played its call.

111 Rufous Woodpecker Micropternus brachyurus S A pair seen in DVFC (Grid W3).

112 Buff-rumped Woodpecker Meiglyptes tristis S Once in KJC trails and a few times in DVFC.

113 Buff-necked Woodpecker Meiglyptes tukki S [NT] Pairs seen twice in KJC trails and twice in DVFC.

114 Maroon Woodpecker Blythipicus rubiginosus S Twice in KJC trails, once in DVFC (Grid) and two in a mixed flock in Kinabalu NP (Upper Silau-Silau).

115 Orange-backed Woodpecker Reinwardtipicus validus S One male seen well in DVFC (where the Nature Trail runs very close to the Segama river).

116 Grey-and-buff Woodpecker Hemicircus concretus S This exquisite woodpecker was always seen in pairs, once along the Menanggol and a few times in DVFC.

117 Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus S [VU] The largest woodpecker in the world - a very impressive beast indeed. First time in DVFC (Purut Waterfall Trail) when I played back a Green Broadbill call, the presence of its sound in the background of the recording was enough to bring it in. Another far away individual from the Nature Trail.

118 White-fronted Falconet Microhierax latifrons S [NT] One on a completely bare tree along the Kinabatangan (5 minutes downstream from Bilit jetty) and again on a bamboo thicket near the DVFC badminton court.


119 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus S This symbol of aerial agility & speed was evidently reduced to clumsiness by the well-organized bat swarms as it attempted to hunt them when they emerged from the Gomantong Cave.

120 Blue-rumped Parrot Psittinus cyanurus S Seen well in a busy fruiting tree on the Kingfisher Trail in Sepilok. Also a few fly bys in the Kinabatangan area.

121 Long-tailed Parakeet Psittacula longicauda S [NT] Many fly overs in Sepilok & Kinabatangan. Also several perched on a large tree outside the Sepilok OURC office.

122 Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot

Loriculus galgulus S Seen well in a busy fruiting tree on the Kingfisher Trail in Sepilok (see 120). Also one flyby in Kinabatangan & DVFC.

123 Green Broadbill Calyptomena viridis S [NT] Twice in DVFC (first Purut Waterfall Trail and then again in the Tembaling Waterfall Trail 2 km).

124 Whitehead's Broadbill Calyptomena whiteheadi S This huge broadbill, the most impressive Calyptomena, was my most wanted endemic at Kinabalu NP. Right from the start of my search I kept imagining that I'll spot a green blob in the recess of an inviting trail side valley (with great visibility to boot). After intensive searching in the higher areas of Kinabalu NP I realized that it was possibly absent there due to poor fruiting. So after failing to find it there, I decided to try Lower Mempening, where at one point I came upon a very inviting valley with great visibility :). It had a large feeding flock in it & as I looked down into the valley, birds were coming at me nicely from the recess. I remembered my earlier imaginations about the broadbill and felt somewhat bemused by them. But then I thought, no harm playing the tape right here. Turned out my intuition was bang on - a large flaming emerald blob flew in aggressively almost immediately, giving me excellent prolonged views. Incredibly, I saw a flock of 3 more, later that evening at the 2 km marker in Poring (890 masl, Langanan Trail, at the lower end of its known elevation range). Lack of fruits higher up must have forced them lower - uncommon occurrence.

125 Black-and-red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos S A tame pair in Sepilok RDC along the Ridge Trail where it runs parallel to the Kingfisher Trail. Also in Kinabatangan.

126 Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae S Quick views of a pair below the RIC in Crocker Range. They were part of a feeding flock and didn’t hang on for too long.

127 Banded Broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus S Several sightings in DVFC - once each in the Nature Trail & Tembaling Waterfall Trail. Twice in the Grid (W3, W8). One at the first stream/waterfall in the Langanan Trail at Poring.

128 Black-and-yellow Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus S [NT] Quite simply one of the most delightful birds of SE Asia, where it is mostly seen in the Sundas. Its remarkable vocalization is a treat for the ears and the soft pink of its belly matched with its crazy stare is a treat for the eyes. Commonly heard at all lowland sites and also at Poring. Seen once at eye-level from the Sepilok RDC Canopy Walk and many times in the Kinabatangan, DVFC.

129 Dusky Broadbill Corydon sumatranus S The broadest bill of all broadbills. One flock seen on the Tenanggang and then another flock in DVFC, seen from a tree fall gap in the Tembaling Waterfall Trail. Both times I was secretly hoping that Bristleheads would show up along with the broadbills but that never happened. The flock in DVFC was very responsive to Bristlehead playback.

130 Black-crowned Pitta Erythropitta ussheri S [NT] One seen very well near the Sepilok Giant and again seen well twice more in DVFC (Tembaling Waterfall Trail). The most heard Pitta and tape responsive too. Also heard in Kinabatangan and in the DVFC Grid.

131 Blue-banded Pitta Erythropitta arquata S Poring was not on my agenda but I decided to go there after I cleaned up the montane endemics with time to spare. The visit paid off when I found two neighboring territories just before the 2 km marker on the Langanan Trail at 880 masl (2.30 pm). Although they were both very secretive and didn’t want to get close to the trail, I was able to get acceptable views of one of these stunning birds through dense vegetation after one hour of trying (I wondered if someone had taped them out). The wait for the Pitta also produced an exquisite Malayan Weasel - its soft golden coat & lithe movements was a sight to behold. Also heard once in DVFC (Tembaling Waterfall Trail 1.4 km).


132 Giant Pitta Hydrornis caeruleus H [NT] Heard twice in DVFC. Once in the Purut Waterfall Trail (1 km into the Rhino Ridge from W5S5) and once near W6, where it came very close only to stop calling suddenly. Would have been a much wanted lifer.

133 Bornean Banded Pitta Hydrornis schwaneri S Four sightings of this very bright funky colored Pitta. Poor views of one at Sepilok RDC (Pitta Trail). Then 3 excellent sightings at DVFC - first at about 2 km into the Tembaling Waterfall Trail and then twice along the Purut Waterfall Trail (where a female was also seen). It took 30 min to get my first visual. I was just about to give up when I latched onto a very slight movement in the dimly lit valley floor below. Apparently the bird had frozen in the open but I got great views once I located it. Then in the Purut Waterfall Trail I saw a male with some difficulty but no sooner than it disappeared, a female was found walking on a log, following the male.

134 Blue-headed Pitta Hydrornis baudii S [VU] Four excellent sightings of different individuals - twice in the hill slopes along the Tembaling Waterfall Trail, once at the start of the Nature Trail in rather trashed habitat and another time I stumbled onto one that was sitting on a bench below the Canopy Tower at midday. Good response to tape when close by. This bonanza was highly unexpected and I thoroughly enjoyed all four encounters with this ridiculously striking species. Also heard along the Grid and Purut Waterfall Trail (where it responded when I played a Giant Pitta song).

135 Hooded Pitta Pitta sordida S One seen very well along the Menanggol. Then another in DVFC (right on the Nature Trail where it runs along the Palun Tambun stream for ~100 m with trashed trailside vegetation).

136 Golden-bellied Gerygone Gerygone sulphurea S Only one glimpse below the RIC in Crocker Range.

137 Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis virgatus S One flock from the Canopy Tower at DVFC.

138 Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus S Seen once in RIC and again in Kinabalu NP.

139 Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike

Hemipus hirundinaceus S Commonly seen from the Canopy Walk at Sepilok RDC. Also one sighting in DVFC.

140 Rufous-winged Philentoma Philentoma pyrhoptera S Both Philentomas have loud, aggressive sounding calls which easily give away their presence. Rufous-winged was seen in the KJC trails and in DVFC (once each Nature & Tembaling Waterfall Trails).

141 Maroon-breasted Philentoma Philentoma velata S [NT] Two individuals seen in KJC trails.

142 White-breasted Woodswallow

Artamus leucorynchus S Scattered sightings in the lowlands.

143 Bornean Bristlehead Pityriasis gymnocephala S [NT] One of the avian symbols of Borneo. I could only manage one sighting - two distant individuals in DVFC from the Canopy Tower just before dusk. I tried to call them in but they did not come even though they might have heard the tape. I made it a point to rush up the Tembaling Waterfall Trail next morning because I calculated that they must have roosted somewhere close to it. But nowhere to be seen next morning. Previously, also heard in Sepilok RDC from the Canopy Walk but they did not come in (possibly because of the presence of a Wallace's Hawk Eagle nearby). It is getting increasingly rare in Sepilok RDC where it was earlier thought to be common.

144 Common Iora Aegithina tiphia S Scattered sightings in all three lowland sites.

145 Green Iora Aegithina viridissima S [NT] Always in the top canopy where difficult to find from the forest floor. Seen at arm's length from the Sepilok RDC Canopy Walk and also from the DVFC Canopy Tower.

146 Fiery Minivet Pericrocotus igneus S [NT] Seen at arm's length from the Sepilok RDC Canopy Walk and also a few times in DVFC.

147 Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris S Fairly common in Crocker Range and in Kinabalu NP.

148 Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus S Seen once from the DVFC Canopy Tower.

149 Sunda Cuckooshrike Coracina larvata S One seen in a mixed feeding flock just above the RIC.

150 Pied Triller Lalage nigra S Several on Selingaan Island.

151 Lesser Cuckooshrike Lalage fimbriata S One from the DVFC Canopy Tower.

152 Bornean Whistler Pachycephala hypoxantha S Very common around RIC, Gunung Alab & Kinabalu NP.

153 Mangrove Whistler Pachycephala cinerea S One in Selingaan Island.

154 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach S A few perched on wires along highways.


155 Blyth's Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius aeralatus S Few in mixed flocks around RIC & in Kinabalu NP.

156 White-bellied Erpornis Erpornis zantholeuca S Few in Sepilok, DVFC and Poring.

157 Dark-throated Oriole Oriolus xanthonotus S [NT] A few in the Kinabatangan area and another one in DVFC along the Tembaling Waterfall Trail.

158 Black-and-crimson Oriole Oriolus cruentus S Common around the RIC. Seen twice in Kinabalu NP.

159 Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus S Not sure why this distinctive taxon is lumped with Ashy Drongo. Most likely a future split. Common around RIC, Gunung Alab & Kinabalu NP.

160 Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus S Scattered sightings in lowland sites.

161 Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus S Scattered sightings in lowland sites.

162 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus S Scattered sightings in lowland sites.

163 Spotted Fantail Rhipidura perlata S This beautifully patterned species was seen several times in DVFC usually in mixed flocks.

164 Malaysian Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica S Common in Selingaan Island and lowland sites.

165 White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis S Common above RIC and in Kinabalu NP.

166 Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea S Seen in all lowland forest sites.

167 Indian Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi S Two along the Tembaling Waterfall Trail in DVFC.

168 Crested Jay Platylophus galericulatus S [NT] This amazing jay was first seen in DVFC (Grid W9) and then again in Poring (Langanan Trail, 2 km) where it was in a flock with Whitehead's Broadbill. On understory trees 10-15 m above ground.

169 Bornean Black Magpie Platysmurus atterimus S [NT] First seen during the Sepilok RDC night walk where it was spot-lit. Again seen next morning from the Canopy Walk. Later, flock of 3 seen in DVFC (Tembaling Waterfall Trail).

170 Bornean Green-Magpie Cissa jefferyi S This striking species was seen twice in mixed flocks at Kinabalu NP (Lower Silau-Silau, PSR near Upper Silau-Silau).

171 Bornean Treepie Dendrocitta cinerascens S Common sound in Kinabalu NP & Crocker Range. Seen many times in flocks & also early mornings when they leave their roosts to lounge on the outer branches of trees.

172 Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca S Common.

173 Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica S Common at all sites.

174 Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher

Culicicapa ceylonensis S Seen in DVFC and Poring. Conspicuous in mixed flocks.

175 Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis S Once each in DVFC, Poring & Kinabalu NP. In mixed flocks.

176 Puff-backed Bulbul Pycnonotus eutilotus S [NT] First seen from the boardwalk to the Gomantong Cave from the car park. Still common in DVFC & Poring.

177 Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps S This unusual bulbul has a large range but it is generally scarce across most of it. Several seen in open dense scrub along the Langanan Trail just before dusk.

178 Straw-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus zeylanicus S [VU] Amazing looks, amazing song. A few seen in dense riverside scrub between the reception and restaurant buildings at DVFC. I didn’t hear any spontaneous singing but expecting the birds to be present in that habitat, I played the tape. That resulted in immediate eruption of its extraordinary song, a skill for which humans have relentlessly trapped this species, making it endangered across its entire range.

179 Bornean Bulbul Pycnonotus montis S This cool endemic was common around the RIC especially east of it. Sometimes in mixed flocks.

180 Scaly-breasted Bulbul Pycnonotus squamatus S [NT] This awesome looking & scarce bulbul was seen on a large tree in disturbed habitat with dense scrubby undergrowth at Poring along the Langanan Trail (several suitable spots in the first 1.2 km). My plan was to arrive at that habitat before dusk so that I could pick up new bulbuls while they are typically jostling for roosting space. That paid off by producing Black-headed & Scaly-breasted (which I heard and played the tape, leading to immediate response from two). Worth noting that it was midday when I was heading up the trail and I had heard Scaly-breasted at the same spot even then but they refused to respond to the tape.

181 Pale-faced Bulbul Pycnonotus leucops S Based on morphology alone this seems like an obvious split from Flavescent Bulbul P. flavescens. Usually found along the Summit Trail above Timpohon Gate in Kinabalu NP but I saw 2 in a mixed flock at the upper Liwagu trailhead. This was quite fortunate as the Summit Trail was closed for repairs due to the recent earthquake.


182 Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier S Common bulbul of open areas. Very common outside the Sepilok RDC. Also seen in Selingaan Island, Poring and two above the RIC.

183 Cream-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus simplex S Very common in lowland and hill forest areas.

184 Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus brunneus S Very common in lowland and hill forest areas.

185 Spectacled Bulbul Pycnonotus erythropthalmos S Only seen in DVFC where it was common along the approach road just north of the reception.

186 Hairy-backed Bulbul Tricholestes criniger S Several from the boardwalk to the Gomantong Cave. Fairly common in DVFC. Also seen in Poring.

187 Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus S Common in RIC and in Kinabalu NP. Very inquisitive and randomly responds to playback of other species.

188 Grey-cheeked Bulbul Alophoixus bres S Surprisingly only two sightings in DVFC (Nature Trail & Grid) where I was expecting it to be common.

189 Yellow-bellied Bulbul Alophoixus phaeocephalus S Probably the most common bulbul of the forest interior. Very inquisitive. Seen in Kinabatangan, DVFC & Poring.

190 Buff-vented Bulbul Iole olivacea S [NT] Only seen in Sepilok RDC near a fruiting tree on the Kingfisher Trail which was attracting many different species.

191 Cinereous Bulbul Hemixos cinereus S Recent split from Ashy Bulbul H. flavala but still considered conspecific by some. Several sightings around the RIC.

192 Streaked Bulbul Ixos malaccensis S [NT] Fairly common in lowland and hill forested sites. Sepilok, Kinabatangan, DVFC, Poring.

193 Bornean Stubtail Urosphena whiteheadi S A common sound in the Kinabalu NP but not easy to see and not tape responsive. Two excellent sightings: a pair walking on the floor close to the Bukit Ular Trail and once from PSR near the Upper Liwagu Trail head.

194 Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris S A flock in Poring near the first waterfall. Associating with White-bellied Erpornis & Red-eyed Bubul.

195 Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus S One seen in a dense bush at the top of the Bukit Ular Trail.

196 Sunda Bush-Warbler Horornis vulcanius S Very common & conspicuous in roadside scrub in higher areas of Gunung Alab & PSR near Timpohon gate. Its beautiful vocalization was a common feature in both places.

197 Mountain Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus S Common in Gunung Alab and Kinabalu NP but ssp P. t. sarawacensis (found in Crocker Range and outside Kinabalu NP) is bright yellow and ssp P. t. kinabaluensis (only Kinabalu NP) is drab white. Someone should really do genetic analysis on these variations to see if the lump makes any sense.

198 Yellow-breasted Warbler Seicercus montis S Fairly common in Gunung Alab & Kinabalu NP.

199 Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis S Uncommonly seen in lowland forest sites of Sepilok, Kinabatangan and DVFC.

200 Ashy Tailorbird Orthotomus ruficeps S Common in lowland sites Sepilok, Kinabatangan & DVFC. Seemed to be uncommon in primary forest though.

201 Rufous-tailed Tailorbird Orthotomus sericeus S Common in Selingaan Island and in lowland forest sites. Uncommon in primary forest though.

202 Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris S Only one sighting - along the Kinabatangan river.

203 Chestnut-crested Yuhina Yuhina everetti S Common in RIC, Gunung Alab and Kinabalu NP. Tends to form conspicuous flocks flying across open areas to the forest edge trees.

204 Pygmy White-eye Oculocincta squamifrons S This tricky endemic was found in a mixed feeding flock 3 km east (below) RIC in the Crocker Range. I was having a snack in my rental car when some movement caught my eye directly on the other side of the road. I picked up my binoculars and saw a few of these right at the edge of forest on a tree 5 m above the ground. It was with White-throated Fantail & Black-and-crimson Oriole. When it was time to take a photo a very large and unbelievably loud truck overloaded with processed wood chased the birds back into the valley (quite annoying).

205 Mountain Black-eye Chlorocharis emiliae S Usually found along the Summit Trail above the Timpohon Gate in Kinabalu NP but the trail was closed for repairs following the recent earthquake. So I had given up all hope of seeing this species. But I was surprised by a group of 5 feeding on a tree behind the Liwagu Restaurant as I was having lunch on the terrace. I later learnt that the Liwagu Restaurant is about the lowest this species can be encountered in Kinabalu NP. Lack of fruits higher up must have brought them here.


206 Black-capped White-eye Zosterops atricapilla S Seen in flocks at RIC, Gunung Alab and in Kinabalu NP.

207 Everett's White-eye Zosterops everetti S I was very surprised to find two in a mixed feeding flock close to the Upper Liwagu Trail head in Kinabalu NP. This is well above its usual elevation range. Also in Poring.

208 Bold-striped Tit-Babbler Mixornis bornensis S Common in the Kinabatangan area. Also heard in DVFC.

209 Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler Macronus ptilosus S This awesome looking babbler was fairly common in dense scrub in disturbed forest. Especially vocal at tree falls.

210 Chestnut-winged Babbler Cyanoderma erythropterum S One of the most common babblers of the forest interior. Mostly arboreal in nature, its calls were a common feature at Sepilok, Kinabatangan and DVFC. Also seen in Poring.

211 Rufous-fronted Babbler Cyanoderma rufifrons S A couple sightings in DVFC along the access road side. Heard a few times elsewhere.

212 Chestnut-backed Scimitar-Babbler

Pomatorhinus montanus S Only seen in Poring near the 2 km marker. Also heard several times along the Langanan Trail there. Completely missed in DVFC where it is supposedly common.

213 Black-throated Babbler Stachyris nigricollis H [NT] This much wanted babbler remained heard-only at the base of the Gomantong Caves. Responded to tape by singing only once. Didn’t seem to have moved at all.

214 Chestnut-rumped Babbler Stachyris maculata S [NT] This good looking babbler was seen several times in lowland forest sites (Sepilok OURC/RDC, Kinabatangan & DVFC Grid). Conspicuous just before dusk when it seems to be partial to arboreal foraging. Otherwise rather skulking.

215 Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps S Common in undergrowth at highland sites of RIC and Kinabalu NP. In mixed species flocks and also family groups.

216 Grey-headed Babbler Stachyris poliocephala S Two along the DVFC access road and once in the Grid.

217 White-necked Babbler Stachyris leucotis H [NT] Heard three different individuals along the Langanan Trail between 740 and 790 masl (ridge top with good quality forest and many strangler figs) but all of them failed to respond. Very disappointing as it would have missed it.

218 Moustached Babbler Malacopteron magnirostre S Common in DVFC and Poring.

219 Sooty-capped Babbler Malacopteron affine S Common in Kinabatangan and DVFC.

220 Scaly-crowned Babbler Malacopteron cinereum S Very common in Sepilok, Kinabatangan and DVFC.

221 Rufous-crowned Babbler Malacopteron magnum S [NT] Less common than Scaly-crowned by still seen several times in DVFC. Confirmed by voice.

222 Black-capped Babbler Pellorneum capistratum S One seen in KJC trails, walking across the trail, then slowly walking alongside, then disappearing into the undergrowth.

223 Temminck's Babbler Pellorneum pyrrogenys S Heard near Timpohon Gate and a flock with at least 5 individuals in a tree fall area at the bottom of Pandanus.

224 Short-tailed Babbler Pellorneum malaccense S [NT] Two in a mixed feeding flock in Sepilok OURC. Then again in the DVFC grid. Always walking on the forest floor or ground hugging vegetation.

225 White-chested Babbler Pellorneum rostratum S [NT] Common in Sepilok, Kinabatangan and DVFC usually near water. Very conspicuous.

226 Ferruginous Babbler Pellorneum bicolor S One in Sepilok OURC in a mixed feeding flock and another in DVFC. Also heard several times in Kinabatangan.

227 Horsfield's Babbler Turdinus sepiarius S Common in KJC, DVFC and Poring.

228 Striped Wren-Babbler Kenopia striata S [NT] Missed it completely in Sepilok & Kinabatangan. Then in the DVFC Grid, in two memorable hours I had cracking views of all three Wren-Babblers. This was seen at W3 after speculative playback produced a strong response.

229 Bornean Wren-Babbler Ptilocichla leucogrammica S [VU] No spontaneous vocalizations at all. This was the 3rd Wren-Babbler seen within 2 hours in the DVFC Grid. Speculative playback at the stream crossing between W7 and W8 produced a delayed response from one. But it only responded once. After about 10 min I caught a movement in a nearby ground hugging tangle - it was a Bornean Wren-Babbler. It had quietly come in to check out the intruder. Never stood still.

230 Black-throated Wren-Babbler

Turdinus atrigularis S [NT] No spontaneous song from all 3 Wren-Babblers during my stay at DVFC. So I resorted to speculative playback. Grid W6 produced a strong response from across the gully to the north. Soon I had excellent views of two in the same bush. All 3 Wren-Babblers are really awesome looking birds.


231 Mountain Wren-Babbler Napothera crassa S This is probably the most unique of all wren-babblers. Large family groups with ridiculously tame individuals foraging on the forest floor like a Lilliputian army were seen twice in Kinabalu NP (Upper Mempening, Upper Kiau View).

232 Brown Fulvetta Alcippe brunneicauda S [NT] Several sightings in DVFC. Always in feeding flocks.

233 Sunda Laughingthrush Garrulax palliatus S Common in RIC and in Kinabalu NP. More secretive than the cavalier Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush but very vocal.

234 Bare-headed Laughingthrush

Garrulax calvus S This highly sought after endemic is a scarce resident of Kinabalu NP. I never encountered them in mixed flocks with Sunda and Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush. Speculative playback in the Lower Liwagu Trail near a valley bottomland produced a good response and soon great views of 5. A Hair-crested Drongo seemed to be accompanying them all the time.

235 Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush

Ianthocincla treacheri S The most common and conspicuous laughingthrush of the highlands. Common in RIC, Gunung Alab & Kinabalu NP.

236 Asian Fairy-Bluebird Irena puella S Several along the Tembaling Waterfall Trail in DVFC.

237 Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis S Common in human settlements & along main roads.

238 White-crowned Shama Copsychus stricklandii S The most commonly heard endemic in the forest understory. Common in Sepilok, Kinabatangan & DVFC.

239 White-tailed Flycatcher Cyornis concretus S Two sightings in mixed flocks in DVFC (Nature Trail, Grid) and once in Poring at about 1.8 km.

240 Malaysian Blue-Flycatcher Cyornis turcosus S [NT] Seen once in Kinabatangan and a few times in DVFC, usually close to water.

241 Bornean Blue-Flycatcher Cyornis superbus S Heard several times in DVFC but didn’t seem to be tape responsive at all. One seen well in the DVFC Grid W10.

242 Grey-chested Jungle-Flycatcher

Cyornis umbratilis S [NT] One along the Tembaling Waterfall Trail close to the hill top with the Great Argus dancing stage.

243 Ferruginous Flycatcher Muscicapa ferruginea S One in the lower Mempening trail. Represents a very early arrival in its wintering grounds.

244 Indigo Flycatcher Eumyias indigo S Common in RIC, Gunung Alab, Kinabalu NP.

245 Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus S A few in open areas at DVFC.

246 Eyebrowed Jungle-Flycatcher

Vauriella gularis S Common in Kinabalu NP, in mixed flocks and also individuals & pairs.

247 Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra S Fairly common in Kinabalu NP.

248 Rufous-chested Flycatcher Ficedula dumetoria S One in DVFC (~2 km into the Tembaling Waterfall trail).

249 Bornean Whistling-Thrush Myophonus borneensis S Common in Kinabalu NP. Several along the PSR, especially in the morning.

250 White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschenaulti S Once in Sepilok RDC and twice in DVFC.

251 Bornean Forktail Enicurus borneensis S This recent split from White-crowned was seen well in Kinabalu NP three times. One crossed the PSR near the Upper Mempening trail head and twice along Silau-Silau trail.

252 Chestnut-naped Forktail Enicurus ruficapillus S [NT] This highly sought after bird was seen only once at the major stream crossing in the Purut Waterfall Trail (between W0S5 & W5S5).

253 Orange-headed Thrush Geokichla citrina S One bold bird seen just before dusk along the road to the Kinabalu Mountain Lodge. Considered to be a rare bird in Kinabalu NP.

254 Everett's Thrush Zoothera everetti S This highly sought after endemic is sometimes considered to be the hardest on Mt Kinabalu and walking the Bukit Ular Trail at the crack of dawn is considered to be the best strategy. On the first morning itself I learnt that the upper entrance to BU was closed due to the earthquake and by the time I reached the lower entrance (walking down the PSR) a big birding tour group was already lumbering their way in through the lower end. So as an alternative I decided to walk the PSR in the dead of the afternoon (from past experience with thrushes I found them to be most active on road sides or trail sides at dawn, noon & dusk). This paid off big time as I had two by the side of the PSR at 1.30 pm (near the Kiau Gap viewpoint). On seeing me, they flew to a nearby low branch, lingered for a while and then disappeared into the darkness. Next morning I made sure I entered the Bukit Ular Trail before the tour group (hoping to connect with Crimson-headed Partridge on the trail) but there was no sign of the thrush on my back-and-forth.


255 Fruit-hunter Chlamydochaera jefferyi S [NT] I had excellent views of a silent individual about 2 km above the RIC. This turned out to be the only sighting in this trip of this monotypic species. It didn’t help that I was unable to find any fruiting trees in the highlands.

256 Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis S Common in the countryside between Sukau Junction & Bilit.

257 Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa S Common in lowland sites - Sepilok, Kinabatangan and DVFC.

258 Javan Myna Acridotheres javanicus S Common in Sepilok & near human areas in Kinabatangan.

259 Crested Myna Acridotheres cristatellus S A few outside the Sepilok RDC.

260 Greater Green Leafbird Chloropsis sonnerati S Common in DVFC, identified only when female was seen.

261 Lesser Green Leafbird Chloropsis cyanopogon S [NT] Common in Sepilok, Kinabatangan and DVFC.

262 Bornean Leafbird Chloropsis kinabaluensis S This beautiful leafbird was common around the RIC. Only place where it was seen.

263 Yellow-breasted Flowerpecker

Prionochilus maculatus S Few in DVFC.

264 Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker

Prionochilus xanthopygius S Several sightings in Kinabatangan area & DVFC.

265 Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile S One in the KJC trails.

266 Yellow-vented Flowerpecker Dicaeum chrysorrheum S One in DVFC.

267 Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma S Common in Sepilok, Kinabatangan, DVFC & Poring.

268 Bornean Flowerpecker Dicaeum monticolum S Several in Kinabalu NP. Seen well just before dusk at the planted flower patches outside the Kinabalu Gallery building. Also called Black-sided Flowerpecker.

269 Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis S First from the boardwalk to the Gomantong Caves and then again a few times in DVFC.

270 Plain Sunbird Anthreptes simplex S Several times in DVFC (first in Purut Waterfall Trail).

271 Plain-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis S Also known as Brown-throated Sunbird, this was common in Selingaan Island, Sepilok and Kinabatangan.

272 Red-throated Sunbird Anthreptes rhodolaemus S [NT] One from the Sepilok RDC Canopy Walkway and another in DVFC. Seemed quite uncommon.

273 Van Hasselt's Sunbird Leptocoma brasiliana S A few in the Sepilok RDC and also in the flower patches along the RDC access road.

274 Copper-throated Sunbird Leptocoma calcostetha S Two on the red flower patches by the side of the Sepilok RDC access road. Didn’t see it elsewhere.

275 Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis S Common in Selingaan Island, Sepilok & Kinabatangan.

276 Temminck's Sunbird Aethopyga temminckii S A few in RIC, Gunung Alab and common in Kinabalu NP.

277 Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja S A few noted in Sepilok, Kinabatangan, DVFC.

278 Thick-billed Spiderhunter Arachnothera crassirostris S The fruiting & flowering spot (near a water hole that looked man-made) in the Kingfisher Trail at Sepilok RDC was particularly good for spiderhunters, bulbuls etc. Two there.

279 Long-billed Spiderhunter Arachnothera robusta S Noted in DVFC and at the RIC (in a feeding flock).

280 Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra S Common in Sepilok, Kinabatangan, DVFC & Poring.

281 Purple-naped Spiderhunter Arachnothera hypogrammicum S Some treat it as a sunbird & others a spiderhunter. I'm going by ebird (no particular reason though) hence a spiderhunter. Several sightings in Sepilok, Kinabatangan & DVFC.

282 Whitehead's Spiderhunter Arachnothera juliae S Acceptable views of one just above the RIC in a feeding flock. No sign of it anywhere in the Kinabalu NP. I kept looking out for the red flowers described in Phillipps & Phillipps but they didn’t seem to be in bloom at this time.

283 Yellow-eared Spiderhunter Arachnothera chrysogenys S Seen in Sepilok & DVFC.

284 Spectacled Spiderhunter Arachnothera flavigaster S Seen in Sepilok & DVFC.

285 Bornean Spiderhunter Arachnothera everetti S One each in Sepilok (end of Kingfisher Trail), DVFC (start of Nature Trail) and RIC.

286 Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus S Common in human settlements.

287 Dusky Munia Lonchura fuscans S The easiest Bornean endemic to see. Common in grassy scrub outside Sepilok RDC, RIC, Kinabatangan & road side grass in the DVFC approach road.

288 Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata S A few in Sepilok.

289 Chestnut Munia Lonchura atricapilla S Shares the same habitat as Dusky Munia and both species seemed to be present together in suitable habitat.

H=12, Endemic=44, [Near Threatened]=55, [Vulnerable]=7, [Endangered]=1, IUCN Red List = 22%


Annotated Trip List: Mammals & Reptiles (Partial)

All the treeshrews & squirrels seen during the trip could not be identified and the number of reptiles that

remained unidentified is much higher (frogs, snakes, skinks, geckos). So this is a partial list.

MAMMALS

1 Mountain Treeshrew Tupaia montana S Common in Kinabalu NP.

2 Common Treeshrew Tupaia glis S A few in DVFC.

3 Smooth-tailed Treeshrew Dendrogale melanura S A few in KNP were most likely this species.

4 Sunda Flying Lemur Galeopterus variegatus S Colugo. One during the Sepilok RDC night walk.

5 Large Flying Fox Pteropus vampyrus S A few on the Gomantong access road.

6 Wrinkle-lipped Bat Tadarida plicata S Uncountable numbers inside the Gomantong caves.

7 Red Leaf-Monkey Presbytis rubicunda S Maroon Langur. First in Gomantong and then in DVFC.

8 Silvered Leaf-Monkey Trachypithecus cristatus S [NT] Silvery Lutung. Kinabatangan (orange baby seen too).

9 Proboscis Monkey Nasalis larvatus S [EN] Common in the Kinabatangan area. Always wanted to see this monkey after first seeing it in a Tintin comic.

10 Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fascicularis S Crab-eating Macaque. Common in Kinabatangan, DVFC.

11 Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina S [VU] Several sightings in Sepilok & Kinabatangan area.

12 Bornean Gibbon Hylobates muelleri S [EN] Heard in Sepilok. Once close encounter in Kinabatangan & several times in DVFC, including once when a male and a female with baby passed by only a few feet above my head – a trip highlight.

13 Bornean Orangutan Pongo pygmaeus S [EN] One of the highlights of the trip. First totally wild individual seen in forest outside the Gomantong cave. Then several close encounters in DVFC. Some semi-wild individuals in Sepilok OURC.

14 Bornean Slow Loris Nycticebus menagansis S [VU] Seen during the Sepilok RDC night walk.

15 Red Giaint Flying Squirrel Petaurista petaurista S Amazing views from the Sepilok RDC Canopy Walkway of two gliding between tall emergent trees at 6:30 pm.

16 Cream-colored Giant Squirrel Ratufa affinis S Several sightings in Sepilok RDC and DVFC.

17 Prevost's Squirrel Callosciurus prevostii S Common in all lowland sites. Very bold and endearing critters. Many would show up in the KJC dining area during meal times and inevitably get food from people there.

18 Kinabalu Squirrel Callosciurus baluensis S A few in Kinabalu NP.

19 Ear-spot Squirrel Callosciurus adamsi S A party near the Kiau Gap viewpoint.

20 Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus S Common in the lowlands.

21 Bornean Black-banded Squirrel Callosciurus orestes S Common near Timpohon Gate in Kinabalu NP.

22 Horse-tailed Squirrel Sundasciurus hippurus S A few in DVFC.

23 Jentink's Squirrel Sundasciurus jentinki S Fairly common in Kinabalu NP.

25 Bornean Mountain Ground Squirrel

Dremomys everetti S This long nosed treeshrew like squirrel was seen in the higher parts of Kinabalu NP.

26 Whitehead’s Pygmy Squirrel Exilisciurus whiteheadi S Tufted Pygmy Squirrel. Its long white ear tufts are bizarre. Seen once in Kinabalu NP (start of the Kiau View Trail).

27 Least Pygmy Squirrel Exilisciurus exilis S The smallest squirrel in the world and one of the most delightful things you can see in Borneo. Common in all lowland sites (also seen in Poring).

28 Malay Weasel Mustela nudipes S While waiting on a Blue-banded Pitta in Poring I heard rustling behind me. I turned around and saw this amazing mammal rapidly coming towards me. I froze and it walked by only 3 feet away. But it fled when I raised my camera.

29 Malay Badger Mydaus javanensis H One smelt very close by and then heard running away during the Sepilok RDC night walk.

30 Small-clawed Otter Aonyx cinerea S [VU] One group seen along the Menanggol tributary. They were feeding on some fish they had caught earlier.

31 Asian Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditus S Several during dinner time at Kinabatangan Jungle Camp.

32 Bearded Pig Sus barbatus S [VU] 1 in Sepilok, few in Kinabatangan, common in DVFC.

33 Sambar Rusa unicolor S [VU] Seen several times in DVFC, just outside the resthouse and also in the trails.

34 Red Muntjac Muntiacus muntjac S Bornean ssp. Few times in DVFC and once in Kinabalu NP.

35 Lesser Oriental Chevrotain Tragulus kanchil S This ridiculously small deer was seen at a stream bottom along the Nature trail in DVFC.


REPTILES

1 Water Monitor Varanus salvator S Common in Selingaan Island and Kinabatangan including some comical ones interested in food from the KJC dining room. Few in DVFC too.

2 Saltwater Crocodile Crocodylus porosus S A large individual swimming across the Kinabatangan and a few babies from the boat at night.

3 Green Crested Lizard Bronchocela cristatella S This bright green long tailed lizard was seen in all lowland sites. One was walking on the Sepilok RDC Canopy Walk.

4 Reticulated Python Broghammerus reticulatus S One in ambush posture on the banks of the Kinabatangan at night. At first we thought it was a small specimen. But after carefully tracing its body through the grass, we estimated it was at least 9 feet long. Quite deceiving.

5 Bornean Keeled Pit Viper Tropidolaemus subannulatus S This stunning snake was seen during the Sepilok RDC night walk. Formerly in the Wagler's Pit Viper complex.

6 Green Turtle Chelonia mydas S [EN] A trip highlight from Selingaan Island. Incredible experience of closely observing a huge female laying her eggs at night and then releasing hatchlings into the sea.

Notes on select misses

These are birds with realistic chances of being recorded (seen/heard) on this itinerary but were NOT seen or heard in this trip. Some of them more likely to be found than others. Birds like Hooked-billed Bulbul, Grey-breasted Babbler are not listed as Klias peat swamp is not on this itinerary. Very rare birds like Bulwer’s Pheasant, Spectacled Flowerpecker are not included either. The most likely localities for the respective species are noted in the rightmost column. 1 Crested Partridge Rollulus rouloul DVFC. Highly sought after but rarely seen.

2 Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana Sometimes seen along the Segama river in DVFC. Scarce.

3 Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeon Treron fulvicollis Best chance in Sepilok (RDC Canopy Walkway). Scarce.

4 Red-billed Malkoha Zanclostomus javanicus Kinabatangan, DVFC. Scarce.

5 Chestnut-bellied Malkoha Phaenicophaeus sumatranus Kinabatangan, DVFC. Scarce.

6 Reddish Scops Owl Otus rufescens Kinabatangan, DVFC. Scarce.

7 Gould's Frogmouth Batrachostomus stellatus DVFC, Poring. Rarely seen.

8 Javan Frogmouth Batrachostomus javensis DVFC, Poring. Rarely seen.

9 Sunda Frogmouth Batrachostomus cornutus Kinabatangan, DVFC. Rare.

10 Cinnamon-rumped Trogon Harpactes orrhophaeus Records from all lowland sites but best chance in hilly areas, especially Poring. Scarce.

11 Blue-banded Kingfisher Alcedo euryzona DVFC. Scarce.

12 Banded Kingfisher Lacedo pulchella DVFC, Poring. Scarce.

13 Banded Woodpecker Chrysophlegma miniaceus Not a lifer for me but mentioned here because this is a supposedly a common woodpecker in Sabah.

14 Hose's Broadbill Calyptomena hosii Rare in Poring.

15 Black-and-white Bulbul Pycnonotus melanoleucos Sepilok, DVFC, Poring. Scarce.

16 Finsch's Bulbul Alophoixus finschii DVFC, Poring. Scarce.

17 Friendly Bush-Warbler Bradypterus accentor Fairly common after 1.5 km in the Summit Trail of Kinabalu NP. The trail was closed during my visit.

18 Chestnut-capped Thrush Geokichla interpres Sepilok, DVFC, Poring. Uncommon.

19 Island Thrush Turdus poliocephalus Fairly common after 3 km in the Summit Trail of Kinabalu NP. The trail was closed during my visit.

20 Rufous-tailed Shama Trichixos pyrrhopygus DVFC. Uncommon.

21 Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatcher Rhinomyias olivaceus DVFC, Poring. Uncommon.

22 Large-billed Blue Flycatcher Cyornis caerulatus DVFC. (Sunda Blue Flycatcher). Uncommon.

Scale: Common, Uncommon, Scarce, Rare.


Blue-headed Pitta, DVFC Hooded Pitta, Kinabatangan Black-crowned Pitta, DVFC

Bornean Banded Pitta, DVFC Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Sepilok RDC Banded Broadbill, DVFC

Scarlet-rumped Trogon, DVFC Black-and-red Broadbill, Sepilok RDC


Bare-headed Laughingthrush, Kinabalu NP Sunda Bush Warbler, Gunung Alab Orange-headed Thrush, Kinabalu NP

Phillipine Megapode, Selingaan Island Bornean Flowerpecker, Kinabalu NP Bornean Slow Loris, Sepilok RDC

Bornean Black Magpie, Sepilok RDC Proboscis Monkey, Kinabatangan Bornean Gibbon, Kinabatangan


Maroon-breasted Philentoma, Kinabatangan Blue-eared Kingfisher, Kinabatangan Wrinkled Hornbill, DVFC

Maroon Woodpecker, Kinabatangan Red-breasted Partridge, Kinabalu NP Crimson-headed Partridge, Kinabalu NP

Silvered Leaf Monkey, Kinabatangan Storm’s Stork, Kinabatangan Whiskered Treeswift, DVFC

END

Birding Trip Report: Borneo (Sabah, Malaysia)

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