Best of Milan a W 15 16

Missoni

Catwalk Analysis > A/W 15/16 > Apparel > Analysis By City

City and nature came to mind upon seeing Stefano Pilati's lineup of eco-warriors. Checked overcoats and bomber jackets were finished with shimmering silvercoatings, and brushed velvet suits were paired with colour-coordinated roll-neck sweaters. The theme throughout the entire show was the subtly unexpected:sweaters sported hard cap hoodies, jackets were updated with zippers on the sleeves, and full-cut trousers were roomy and tapered.

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Tomas Maier continued his exploration of modern menswear at the crossroads of tailoring and sportswear, which he started last season. This time the twoinfluences felt less amalgamated. Their combination had a bold, casual confidence in the way that contrasting items appeared carelessly thrown together intolooks. For example, sharply tailored herringbone tweed blazers were styled with jersey sweatpants, bringing a sense of relaxed everyday luxury.

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Rodolfo Paglialunga presented his first menswear collection for the label, keeping Jil’s minimalist codes intact. He combined a romantic 1970s-inspired affairwith baggier and boxier silhouettes. Trousers stood out – they were cut beautifully with outsized pleats to give special attention to the waist. The materials usedthroughout the lineup were heavy in appearance. The tailored suits felt approachable and current, as workwear and utility details added sartorial interest.

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Missoni's latest collection drew inspiration from 'the artist', both as muse and expressive force as he traveled along Russian, Mongolian and Chinese terrains.Romantic draping, soft tailoring and oversized pieces defined the Missoni man this season. Chunky cashmeres, fluid cashmere-silk blends and speckledwools updated tailored suits, knits and handsome outerwear. A captivating journey blended eclectic cultures together.

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Antonio Marras’s inspiration came from two different personalities: artist Costantino Nivola and Taxi Driver film character Travis Bickle. The collectionfelt cohesive and modern, from the clever use of fabrics and textures to the show’s set. Parkas paired with micro-patterned suits gracefully. The lineup blendedmilitary elements, casual tailoring and a 1970s attitude. Tactile materials updated hybrid suits and slim trousers, keeping the outdoorsy vibe very urban.

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Massimiliano Giornetti’s new outing was an exquisite collection with a strong connection to nature. Outerwear and blazers featured flying bird motifs anddandelions, while animals such as owls, buffalos and zebras decorated knits and tailored garments. Models sported long and chunky scarves wrappedaround the neck to create a dramatic effect throughout the lineup. Giornetti brought some poetry to the season with this daring and elegant collection.

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Silvia Venturini Fendi's collection combined an impressive array of innovative designs with luxurious textures and fabrications. Fendi’s manipulation ofmaterials was exquisite – shearling was etched to look like corduroy, 3D pinstripes were laser cut, and fur appeared to be brushed and spiked on hoodedjackets. The craftsmanship was remarkable, as shearling peaked from sweater seams and real corduroy was patched onto tailored blazers and outerwear.

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Italo Zucchelli presented a collection that explored the different gradations of grey. A masculine, 1940s-inspired silhouette appeared in tweed topcoats, aviatorjackets and high-waisted trousers presented in granite, anthracite, charcoal and heather grey tones. The designer infused a futuristic vibe to the collection byusing shiny vinyls on sporty staples. Sinister yet convincing.

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Massimo Giornetti blended the 1970s with the 1990s in a collection full of modern dandies and punk rockers. The result was natural and extremely convincing.The big departure this season was the lack of print – the playfulness came through via embroideries of robots and space-inspired elements. Giornetti infusedthe lineup with feminine touches such as lace polo shirts, plush textures and pink tones. Solid, elegant and youthful.

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Alessandro Dell’Acqua adapted straightforward sportswear with casual tailored staples. His interpretation of sportswear shapes was a luxury version of NorthEuropean style. The designer brought the flair of casual elegance throughout the collection – rich knits were combined with opulent brocades and technicalfabrics. Elegant trousers were sharply tailored and tapered, while knitwear and outerwear came in plush textures and brightly coloured mélange wools.

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Les Hommes focused on minimal pieces with sporty accents. Andrea Pompilio fused tailoring into an aviation theme without losing a sense ofsportiness. Christian Pellizzari mixed folk elements with classic tailoring in an astute way. Stella Jean showed a playful collection of sharp tailoring, wardrobestaples and audacious prints.

Les Hommes Andrea Pompilio Christian Pellizzari Stella Jean

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