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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Brian Feldman, Carmel Mackin, Craig Elliott, Deborah Santomero, Erika Passerini, Haley Sewell, Jonathan Del Mar, Jonathan Keohane, Kerry Poole, Matt Anness, Neil Harris, Paul Fisher, Rob McDonald, Robert Fairchild, Rolf Wrelf, Stefano Boffetta, Suzanne Tiller
WRITER THANKSGregor ClarkSincere thanks to the many Sardinians who so gen-erously shared their time, insights and love of place, particularly Mario and Frédérique in Nuoro, Daria in Santa Teresa, Simonetta in Olbia, Riky in Lotzorai, Laura in San Pantaleo, and Kevin and Rodolfo in Palau. Finally, hugs to my wife Gaen and daughters Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming home the best part of the trip.
Peter DragicevichIt turns out that it’s not hard to find willing vol-unteers to keep you company on an extended research assignment in Venice, especially when it coincides with Carnevale. Many thanks to my Venice crew of Christine Henderson, Hamish Blen-nerhassett and Sarah Welch for much masked fun and many good meals. Special thanks to Christine for the unpaid but much appreciated translation services.
Hugh McNaughtanThanks for the patience and support of Tasmin, Anna, my girls, the Lonely Planet tech team and the kind people I met in Italy, who made the research not just possible, but a pleasure.
Donna WheelerThanks to Wayne Young, Elena Ciurletti, Gianluca Cannizzo, Emanuela Grandi, Stefano Libardi and the ultra-helpful Duparc Suites team for inspiring local knowledge. To Kathrin Mair, Verena Huf, Caroline Willeit, Antonella Arlotti, Virginia Ciraldo, Elena Boggio, Matteo Paini and Laura Sailis, grazie for gracious, warm hospitality. Soprattutto, molto amore a Giuseppe Giuseppe Guario.
Nicola WilliamsGrazie mille to those who shared their love and insider knowledge with me: in Rome Linda Martinez (The Beehive), Elyssa Bernard, tour guide Fiona Brewer, Sian Lloyd and Lorna Davidson (Roman Guy), Gina Tringali and Eleonora Baldwin at Casa Mia. In Tuscany, Manuele Giovanelli and Zeno Fioravanti, Doreen and Carmello at Florence’s Hotel Scoti, Georgette Jupe, Coral Sisk, Nardia Plumridge, Molly Mcllwrath, Cailin Swanson and Betti Soldi. Finally, kudos to my expert, trilingual, family-travel research team: Niko, Mischa and Kaya.
Cristian BonettoMille grazie to Raffaele e Silvana, Joe Brizzi, Alfonso Sperandeo, Carmine Romano, Sylvain Bellenger, Federica Rispoli, the team at Cooperativa La Paranza, Vincenzo Mattiucci, Marcantonio Colonna
and the many other friends and locals who of-fered invaluable tips and insight. At Lonely Planet, many thanks to Anna Tyler and my ever-diligent Italy writing team.
Kerry ChristianiMille grazie to all the Sardinian locals, experts and tourism officials who made the road to research smooth and provided such valuable in-sight for the Planning and Understand chapters. Big thanks, too, go to my fellow authors – Duncan Garwood and Gregor Clark – for being such stars to work with.
Marc Di DucaA big grazie mille goes to the many tourist offices around the Veneto, especially those in Verona, Vicenza, Padua and Mantua, as well as to Antonio in Belluno. Also huge thanks to Ukrainian grandma and grandpa for looking after my two sons while I was in Italy, and to my wife for suffering my lengthy absences.
Duncan GarwoodA big thank you to Giacomo Bassi for his brilliant tips and suggestions. In Sardinia, grazie to every-one who helped and offered advice, in particular Luisa Besalduch, Agostino Rivano, Marianna Mascalchi, Valentina Sanna, Marco Vacca, and the tourist office teams at Alghero, Sassari and Castelsardo. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Anna Tyler for all her support. And, as always, a big, heartfelt hug to Lidia and the boys, Ben and Nick.
Paula HardyGrazie mille to all the fun and fashionable Vene-tians and Milanese who spilled the beans on their remarkable cities: Paola dalla Valentina, Costanza Cecchini, Sara Porro, Lucia Cattaneo, Monica Cesarato, Francesca Giubilei, Luca Berta, Marco Secchi and Nan McElroy. Thanks, too, to coauthors Regis and Marc for their contributions, and to Anna Tyler for all the support. Finally, much love to Rob for sharing the beauty of the bel paese.
Virginia MaxwellSo many locals assisted me in my research for this trip. Many thanks to Tiziana Babbucci, Fernando Bardini, Maricla Bicci, Niccolò Bisconti,
Enrico Bracciali, Rita Ceccarelli, Cecilia in Massa Marittima, Stefania Colombini, Ilaria Crescioli, Martina Dei, Paolo Demi, Federica Fantozzi, Irene Gavazzi, Francesco Gentile, Francesca Geppetti, Maria Guarriello, Benedetta Landi, Freya Mid-dleton, Alessandra Molletti, Sonai Pallai, Luigi Pagnotta, Valentina De Pamphilis, Franco Rossi, Fabiana Sciano, Maria Luisa Scorza, Raffaella Sen-esi, Coral Sisk, Carolina Taddei and Luca Ventresa. Many thanks, too, to my travelling companions: Peter Handsaker, Eveline Zoutendijk, Max Hand-saker, Elizabeth Maxwell, Matthew Clarke and Ella Clarke.
Kevin RaubThanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who probably can’t remember who I am at this point! Anna Tyler, Gregor Clark and all at Lonely Planet. On the road, Alice Brignani (always willing to wave her magic wand), Emanuela Boni, Barbara Candolofini, Francesca Soffici, Michela Iorio, Stefania Sala, Jen Wittman, Giovanni Pellegrini, Errica Dall’Ara, Claudia Valentini, Franca Rastelli, Sara Laghi, Maria Marini, Beatrice Morlunghi and Sviluppumbria, Ubaldo Casoli, Marta Paraventi, Lia Sciarra, Sabrina Pasqualoni, Valeria Giroldini and Maria Talamè.
Regis St LouisI’m grateful to the countless tourist office staff, innkeepers, chefs, baristas, market vendors, store clerks, students and many other locals who pro-vided helpful tips and advice along the way. Warm thanks to Cassandra and daughters Magdalena and Genevieve, who make this enterprise all the more worthwhile.
THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Italy guidebook was researched and written by Gregor Clark, Peter Drag-icevich, Hugh McNaughtan, Brendan Sainsbury, Donna Wheeler, Nicola Williams, Cristian Bonetto, Kerry Chris-tiani, Marc Di Duca, Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy, Vir-ginia Maxwell, Kevin Raub and Regis St Louis.
This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Anna TylerProduct Editors Alison Ridgway, Anne MasonSenior Cartographer Anthony PhelanBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, Carolyn Bain, James Bainbridge, Bridget Blair, Katie Connolly, Michelle Coxall, Samantha Forge, Carly Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Kate James, Jodie Martire, Kate Morgan,
Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, Sarah Reid, Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett, Corey Hutchison, Rachel ImesonAssisting Book Designer Nicholas ColicchiaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Imogen Bannister, Carolyn Boicos, Grace Dobell, Sasha Drew, Lauren Keith, Anne Mason, Catherine Naghtan, Claire Naylor, Lauren O’Connell, Martine Power, Kirsten Rawlings
809-21Ischia 682-5Iseo 280Isernia 650Isola Bella 265-6, 276Isola dei Pescatori 266Isola del Garda 284Isola d’Elba 556-9Isola dell’Asinara 873-4Isola di Dino 770Isola di San Pietro 860Isola di Sant’Antioco 860Isola di Vivara 685Isola Superiore 266Isole Pontine 163Isole Tremiti 734, 736Italian language 23, 929,
accommodation 791-2drinking 793entertainment 793-4festivals 791food 792-3medical services 794nightlife 793shopping 794sights 785-91tourist information 794transport to/from 794-5travel within 795
Palladio, Andrea 915Palmanova 415-16Pantheon 84-5, 84Panzano in Chianti 528Paola 770paper 360papier-mâché 748Parco del Conero 621-2Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo,
Lazio e Molise 644-5Parco Nazionale del
Cilento e Vallo di Diano 716-18
Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso 19, 237-8, 19
Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga 636-7
Parco Nazionale del Pollino 768
Parco Nazionale della Majella 640-2
Parco Nazionale della Sila 771-2
Parco Nazionale dell’ Appennino Tosco- Emiliano 451-2
Parco Nazionale dell’ Aspromonte 730, 774-5, 731
Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 321
parks & gardens 27-8, see also national parks & reserves
Castel Trauttmansdorff 319
Giardini Botanici Hanbury 199
Giardini di Augusto 678Giardini di Villa Barberini
530-1radio 955Ragusa 832-4Rapallo 183-4Ravello 710-11, 28Ravenna 462-7, 463refugees 893Reggia di Caserta 697Reggio di Calabria 775-7,
776religion 893, 931Renaissance 912-15Renzi, Matteo 908Rimini 467-72, 468Riomaggiore 187, 191-2, 187Riserva Naturale dello
Zingaro 841Riserva Naturale Torre
Salsa 838Riva del Garda 285-7Riviera del Corallo 872-3Riviera di Levante 178-84Riviera di Ponente 195-9road distances 964rock climbing 50-1Roghudi 774Roman Forum 74-7, 74, 76-7
Vvacations 956vaccinations 953Val Badia 328-9Val di Fassa 323-4Val di Fiemme 323Val di Genova 310Val di Non 311, 326Val di Rabbi 312Val di Solda 321-2Val di Sole 311-12Val d’Orcia 540-3Val d’Ultimo 321-2Val Gardena 324-5Val Pusteria 329-32Val Venosta 322Valle d’Aosta 230-8,
231Valle di Lanaittu 884Valle d’Itria 730, 736-43,
730Valley of the Temples 834,
837, 843, 837, 843Valnerina 608-10Valpolicella 390-1Valsesia 229-30Valtenesi 283-4Valtournenche 238Varallo 229-30Varenna 279-80, 277Vasari, Giorgio 917Vasto 648Vatican City 109-18, 116-17,
110, 112vegetarian travellers 130Veneto, the 58, 333, 376-
Franciacorta 281Gaiole in Chianti 532-3Greve in Chianti 525Il Carso 414Lago Trasimeno 590Montalcino 541Montepulciano 544Orvieto 614Pollenzo 223San Casciano in Val di
Pesa 527-8San Gimignano 535Soave 391Trento 304Valle d’Aosta 231-2Valpolicella 390
women in Italy 933women travellers 959work 959WWI 903WWII 904, 906, 907
Zzip lines 51
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
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Kevin RaubEmilia-Romagna & San Marino; Umbria & Le Marche Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is
in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers.
Regis St LouisMilan & the Lakes Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fas-cination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. When not on the road,
Nicola WilliamsRome & Lazio; Florence & Tuscany Border-hopping is way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola Williams, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, Rome, Tuscany, France, Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. Nicola also wrote the Travel with Children chapter.
Cristian BonettoNaples & Campania Cristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numerous publica-tions around the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). Cristian also wrote chapters for Plan, Understand and Survival.
Kerry ChristianiSardinia Kerry is an award-winning travel writer, photographer and Lonely Planet au-thor, specialising in Central and Southern Europe. Based in Wales, she has authored more than a dozen Lonely Planet titles. An adventure addict, she loves mountains, cold places and true wilderness. Kerry’s insatiable wanderlust has taken her to all seven continents – from the frozen wilderness of Antarctica to the Australian Out-back – and shows no sign of waning. Her writing appears regularly in publications
such as Adventure Travel magazine, and she is a Telegraph Travel expert for Austria and Wales. Kerry also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter.
Marc Di DucaMilan & the Lakes; Venice & the Veneto A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Aus-tria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.
Duncan GarwoodRome & Lazio; Sardinia From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experiences. These days he largely dedicates himself to Italy, his adopted homeland where’s he’s been living since 1997. From his base in the Castelli Romani hills outside Rome, he’s clocked up endless kilometres exploring the country’s well-known destinations and far-flung reaches, working on guides to Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Piedmont, and Naples & the Amalfi Coast.
Paula HardyMilan & the Lakes; Venice & the Veneto Paula Hardy is an independent travel writer and editorial consultant, whose work for Lonely Planet and other publications has taken her from nomadic camps in the Danakil Depression to Seychellois beach huts and the jewel-like bar at the Gritti Palace on the Grand Canal. Over two decades, she has authored more than 30 Lonely Planet guidebooks and spent five years as com-missioning editor of Lonely Planet’s bestselling Italian list. These days you’ll find her
hunting down new hotels, hip bars and up-and-coming artisans primarily in Milan, Venice and Marrakesh.
Virginia MaxwellFlorence & Tuscany Though based in Melbourne, Australia, Virginia spends at least three months of every year in Europe and the Middle East researching guidebooks and other travel-related content for a variety of publishers. She caught the travel bug during her first overseas trip to London, where she lived for a couple of years after finishing an Arts degree at university, and she’s been travelling regularly ever since. For the past 13 years Virginia has been working full-
time as a travel writer and occasional book reviewer.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSGregor ClarkSardinia, Sicily Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of coun-tries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.
Peter DragicevichVenice & the Veneto After a career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wan-derlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love.
Hugh McNaughtanAbruzzo & Molise; Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel in-tro a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters.
Brendan SainsburyBorn and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was nineteen. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious ex-istence as a writer and professional vagabond. In the last 11 years, he has written more than 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru.
Donna WheelerTurin, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera, Trentino & South Tyrol; Friuli Venezia Giulia Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for more than 10 years, covering regions across Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Australia. She is the author of Paris Precincts, a curated photographic guide to the city’s best bars, restaurants and shops, and is reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. Donna also wrote the Art & Architecture chapter.