Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planet · 347. OUR READERS . Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with . helpful hints, useful advice and interesting

347347

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Issy Cooper, Thais Fournier, Omar Hasan, Beverly Ladyman and Kirsty Smith

AUTHOR THANKS Brett AtkinsonThanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and information centre staff who patiently answered all my questions. Cheers to the clever craft brewers of New Zealand for sustenance on the road, and to Carol for support on occasional forays via the back roads. Thanks to my fellow authors, the most professional and wittiest bunch one could aspire to work with, and huge thanks and friendship to the mighty Errol Hunt.

Sarah Bennett & Lee SlaterThanks to everyone who helped us on the road, including RTO and visitor information centre staff, tourism operators and travellers. Special thanks to DOC staff, especially Penny McIntosh and Katrina Henderson. Big ups to everyone in-house at Lonely Planet, and to our fellow authors – Brett, Charles and Peter. Thanks also to Sarah Ewing. To all who provided a park for

our camper, a fridge for the flagon, and even a feed of kaimoana on occasion: arohanui, e hoa ma.

Peter DragicevichI owe a great debt of thanks to Hamish Blennerhassett, Harry and Ngaio Tyler, and all the Tyler cousins for their help and companion-ship during the research of this book. But above all, I’d like to thank Errol Hunt – editor extraordinaire, all-round great guy, origin ator of the ‘four more years’ chant at the 2011 Rugby World Cup final, and the person most responsible for making the New Zealand guides so successful over many successive editions.

Charles Rawlings-WayThanks to the many generous, knowledgeable and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on the road, especially the staff at the Palmerston North, Hastings and New Plymouth i-SITEs who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Huge thanks to Errol Hunt for signing me up (again), and the in-house Lonely Planet staff who schmoozed this book through production. Humongous gratitude to my tireless, witty and professional co-authors − Sarah, Peter, Brett and Lee − who infused this book with humour and local low-down. Most of all, thank you Meg, Ione and Remy for holding the fort while I was away.

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Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

348

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Cover photograph: Cascade Saddle, Mt Aspiring National Park, Colin Monteath/Corbis ©

THIS BOOKThis 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Zealand’s South Island guidebook was coordinated by Brett Atkinson, and researched and written by Brett, Sarah Bennett, Peter Dragicevich, Charles Rawlings-Way and Lee Slater. It includes some content from the 17th edition of the New Zealand guide, coordinated by Charles Rawlings-Way.

This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editors Errol Hunt, Glenn van der KnijffDestination Editor Tasmin WabyProduct Editor Catherine NaghtenSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Wendy Wright

Assisting Editors Nigel Chin, Samantha Forge, Jeanette WallCover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Elin Berglund, Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Anna Harris, Genesys India, Jouve India, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Alison Ridgway, Eleanor Simpson, Tracy Whitmey

349

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbel Tasman National Park

9, 84-7, 85, 8accommodation

33-5, 322-4, see also individual locations

activities, see individual activities

Adams Flat 104air travel 335, 336-7Akaroa 11, 150-6, 152, 25Alexandra 209-10animals 297, 299, see also

individual speciesAoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 174-9, 176, 31area codes 19, 331Arrowtown 237-41, 238art galleries, see museums

& galleriesArthur’s Pass village 162arts 315-20, see

also individual artsATMs 329

BBanks Peninsula 150-6, 151Barrytown 107bathrooms 332beaches 20

Caroline Bay 169Colquhouns Beach 241Christchurch 138Dunedin 196Frasers Beach 264Gentle Annie Beach 103Gillespies Beach 124Oreti Beach 267Scotts Beach 104Tahuna Beach 73Tata Beach 90Wharariki Beach 91

beer 21-2, see also breweriesbicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 298, see

also individual speciesbird-watching 298, 299

Kaikoura 69Okarito 117Stewart Island/Rakiura

279, 280Blackball 110-11Blenheim 62-6Blue Lake 208blue penguins 185-6, 189Bluff 271boat travel 336, 337-8Bob’s Bay 52books 30, 284, 299, 309, 315breweries 21-2

Dunedin 193, 195Greymouth 108Invercargill 267Mapua 80Motueka 81Nelson 78Wanaka 241

Buller Gorge 97-8Buller region 97-105bungy jumping 41

Hanmer Springs 158Queenstown 218-19

bus travel 338-9, 342bushwalking, see trampingbusiness hours 330

CCampion, Jane 236Cannibal Bay 274canoeing & kayaking 46

Abel Tasman National Park 86, 87

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 177

Banks Peninsula 153Christchurch 135, 138-9Doubtful Sound 265Franz Joseph Glacier 119

Kaikoura 69Manapouri 264Marlborough Sounds 56Milford Sound 262Nelson 74Okarito 117Otago Peninsula 204Pelorus River 61Punakaiki 106Stewart Island/Rakiura

280Tata Beach 90Wanaka 243, 244

Canterbury 48, 128-80, 130-1accommodation 128climate 128food 128highlights 130-1travel seasons 128

canyoningAbel Tasman National

Park 87Geraldine 168Queenstown 222Wanaka 243

car travel 339-42Cardrona 249Cascade Creek 261cathedrals, see churches

& cathedralsCatlins 16, 271-5, 272, 16caving 41-2

Cathedral Caves 273Cave Stream Scenic

Reserve 162Cavern Creek Caves 104Charleston 101Crazy Paving & Box

Canyon Caves 104Harwood’s Hole 88Honeycomb Hill Caves

& Arch 104Ngarua Caves 88Rawhiti Cave 88Te Anau Glowworm

Caves 253cell phones 18, 331

Charleston 101, 106children, travel with 324-5

Christchurch 141Queenstown 226

Christchurch 48, 129, 132-49, 132, 136-7

accommodation 140-3activities 135, 138-9children, travel with 141drinking & nightlife 145-6earthquakes 135entertainment 146festivals & events 140food 143-5history 129, 135itineraries 134shopping 147sights 129-35tourist offices 147-8tours 140travel to/from 148travel within 148-50

churches & cathedralsChrist Church

Cathedral 73Church of the Good

Shepherd 172Sacred Heart Basilica 170St Patrick’s Basilica 188St Patrick’s Catholic

Church (Akaroa) 152St Patrick’s Catholic

Church (Arrowbank) 237

St Peter’s Anglican Church 217

St Stephen’s Church 167Transitional Cathedral

134cinema 284, 309, 316Cleddau Valley 261climate 18, 23-6, 325, see

also individual regionsclimate change 335climbing, see rock climbingClyde 210-11Colac Bay 266

Index

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

350

INDEX C

- H

Collingwood 91-2consulates 326Cook, Captain James

289, 287Copland Valley 125crayfish 71credit cards 329Cromwell 211-13Crowded House 319culture 310-14Curio Bay 272curling 207currency 18, 329customs regulations 325cycling 42, 337, see

also mountain bikingAlps 2 Ocean Cycle

Trail 178Banks Peninsula 153Christchurch 139Clyde 211Dunedin 197Great Taste Trail 79Kaikoura 70Marlborough Sounds 56Middlemarch 205Nelson 73Nga Haerenga, New

Zealand Cycle Trail 42Oamaru 188-9Otago Central Rail

Trail 11, 206, 11, 43Takaka 88Te Anau 255Te Ara a Waiau Walkway/

Cycleway 118Te Weheka Walkway/

Cycleway 122West Coast Wilderness

Trail 111

Ddangers, see safetyDenniston Plateau 100disabilities, travellers

with 332distance chart 339Divide, the 261diving 46

Kaikoura 67Milford Sound 262

dolphins 56, 69, 169, 266, 271, 299, 10

Doubtful Sound 264-5

driving, see car travelDunedin 48, 192-202,

192-3, 194accommodation 197-8activities 196-7drinking & nightlife 200-1entertainment 201food 198-200shopping 201sights 192-3, 195-6tourist offices 201-2travel to/from 202travel within 202

Duntroon 184-5D’Urville Island 56, 60DVDs 329

Eearthquakes 135, 284, 297economy 284, 311, 312electricity 326, 329embassies 326emergencies 19environment 296-302etiquette 284events, see festivals

& eventsexchange rates 19extreme sports 22, 41-6,

see also individual sports

FFairlie 171-2Farewell Spit 91festivals & events 23-6

Art Deco Festival 206Big Gay Out 327Bluff Oyster & Food

Festival 24, 271Christchurch Arts

Festival 25, 140Christmas Carnival 170Clyde Wine & Food

Festival 24, 211Coast-to-Coast race 111Driftwood & Sand 114Ellerslie Flower Show

23-4, 140Festa 140Festival of Flowers 140French Fest 26, 154Garden City

SummerTimes 140Gay Ski Week 226, 327Gibbston Wine & Food

Festival 24, 225Gold Guitar Week 24,

270

Kaikoura Seafest 26Marlborough Wine

Festival 23, 62Nelson Arts Festival

26, 75Nelson Jazz & Blues

Festival 23, 75New Zealand

International Comedy Festival 24

New Zealand International Film Festivals 25

NZ Cup & Show Week 26, 140

Oamaru Victorian Heritage Celebrations 26, 189

Oamaru Wine & Food Festival 189

Queenstown Bike Festival 226

Queenstown Winter Festival 24, 226

Rippon Festival 23, 245Timaru Festival of

Roses 170Waipara Wine & Food

Festival 161Wanaka Fest 26, 245Warbirds over Wanaka

24, 245Wildfoods Festival

23, 114World Buskers’ Festival

23, 140films 284, 309, 316Finn brothers 319Fiordland 48, 253-65, 252

accommodation 251climate 251food 251highlights 252travel seasons 251

fishingKaikoura 69-70Queenstown 222Stewart Island/Rakiura

280Wanaka 243, 244

food & drink 22, 326, see also individual locations

Fort Taiaroa 203Fortrose 272Fox Glacier 11, 122-5,

123, 44Franz Josef Glacier 11,

118-22, 120, 10French Pass 56, 60

Ggalleries, see museums

& galleries gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 326-7geology 296-7Geraldine 167-8giardia 327glaciers 118

Fox Glacier 11, 122-5, 123, 44

Franz Josef Glacier 11, 118-22, 120, 10

Glenorchy 233-7gliding 183Glowworm Dell 112Golden Bay 88-92golf 243Gore 270Governors Bay 150Granity 103Great Coast Road, The

105-7Great Walks 21, 32, 33

Abel Tasman Coast Track 84-7

Heaphy Track 92-3, 104Kepler Track 257-8,

264, 257Milford Track 258, 260,

259, 21, 31Rakiura Track 279Routeburn Track 234,

235Greymouth 108-10, 109Greymouth region 108-12

HHaast Pass Highway 127Haast region 125-7haka 308hang gliding 42, 221Hanmer Springs 157-60,

158Hari Hari 116Havelock 60health 327-8Heaphy Track 92-3, 104Hector 103Hector’s dolphins 169, 266heliskiing 40hiking, see trampingHillary, Sir Edmund 311history 20, 286-95hitching 342Hokitika 112-15, 113holidays 330Hollyford Track 260

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

351IN

DEX H- M

Hollyford Valley 261Homer Tunnel 261Hope Arm 264horse riding 42

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 177

Blenheim 62Cardrona 249Catlins 272Collingwood 91Franz Joseph Glacier 120Glenorchy 235Lake Tekapo 172Marahau 83-4Peel Forest 167Port Chalmers 203Punakaiki 106Springfield 163

hypothermia 328

Iice skating 222immigration 335insurance 328

car & motorcycle 341health 327

internet access 328internet resources 19,

30, 37Invercargill 267-71, 268itineraries 27-8, 27, 28

Christchurch 134Queenstown 219

JJackson Bay 126jetboating 46, 43

Buller Gorge 98Cromwell 212Glenorchy 235Hanmer Springs 158Humpridge 266Makarora 250Queenstown 219Te Anau 255Wanaka 243

KKahurangi National

Park 92-3Kaikoura 9, 66-72, 68Kaiteriteri 83Kaka Point 275Karamea 103-5kauri trees 300kayaking, see canoeing

& kayakingkea 299

Kenepuru 60-1Kepler Track 257-8, 264

257Key Summit 261kiteboarding 46, 74kiwis 217, 280, 298, 299Knights Point 125Kohaihai 104Kumara 111-12Kurow 184-5

LLake Brunner 111Lake Gunn 261Lake Hanlon 103Lake Hauroko 265Lake Hawea 249-50Lake Kaniere 112Lake Mahinapua 116Lake Matheson 124Lake Mistletoe 261Lake Moeraki 125Lake Pukaki 173Lake Roxburgh 210Lake Tekapo 172-4, 5Lake Wilkie 273Land Wars 293language 18, 290, 343-6Larnach Castle 204Lauder 208-9legal matters 328lesbian travellers 326-7Lewis Pass 156-7Ligar Bay 90literature 309, 315Lord of the Rings, The 316Lorde 317luge 222Lyell 101Lyttelton 149-50

MMacetown 237Mackay Creek 261Makarora 250Manapouri 263-4Maori culture

arts 305-9, 315, 17language 290, 343-5literature 315regional highlights 53,

98, 157, 184, 218rock painting 185

Maori people 17, 20, 303-9, 312

history 286-7, 290-3, 303-4

maps 30-5, 329

Mapua 79-80, 80marae 306Marahau 83-4markets 22, 327Marlborough region 47,

52-72, 51, 63, 2, 21, 25accommodation 50climate 50food 50highlights 51history 52travel seasons 50

Marlborough Sounds 56-7, 58

Marlborough Wine & Food Festival 23, 62

measures 329medical services 327Methven 164-6Middlemarch 205-6Milford Sound 13, 262-3, 13Milford Track 258, 260,

259, 21, 31Mirror Lakes 261moa 287, 298Moana 111mobile phones 18, 331Moeraki 191Molesworth Station 159money 18, 19, 325, 329-30Monkey Island 266Moriori people 287motorcycle travel 339-42motorsports 212Motuara Island 56Motueka 80-3, 81mountain biking 42

Arrowtown 237-8Clutha Gold Trail 209Fairlie 171Franz Joseph Glacier 121Hanmer Springs 158Kaiteriteri 83Nelson 73Old Ghost Road 101Otago Central Rail Trail

206Queenstown 221-2Roxburgh Gorge Trail 209Wanaka 243, 244

mountaineering 45, 241-3Moutere 80Mt Aspiring National

Park 244Mt Cook, see Aoraki/

Mt Cook National ParkMt Iron 241Mt John 172Mt Somers 166

Mt Tutoko 261Murchison 97-8museums & galleries 20-1

1066 – A Medieval Mosaic 167

Aigantighe Art Gallery 170

Akaroa Museum 152Anderson Park Art

Gallery 267Andris Apse Wilderness

Gallery 117Blacks Point Museum 99Bluff Maritime Museum

271Bushman’s Museum 266Canterbury Museum 132Catlins Info Centre &

Owaka Museum 274Central Stories 209Clyde Historical

Museums 210-11Coaltown Museum 100Collingwood Museum 91Dunedin Public Art

Gallery 193Eastern Southland

Gallery 270Edwin Fox Maritime

Museum 52Fairlie Heritage

Museum 171Forrester Gallery 188Founders Heritage

Park 73Geraldine Historical

Museum 168Giant’s House 151-2Golden Bay Museum

& Gallery 88Gore Historical

Museum 270History House

Museum 108Hokitika Craft Gallery 114Hokitika Glass Studio 114Hokitika Museum 112Hokonui Moonshine

Museum 270Jagosi Jade 114Kaikoura Museum 67Lake District Museum &

Gallery 237Left Bank Art Gallery 108Lost Gypsy Gallery 273Marlborough Museum 62Motueka District

Museum 80-1Murchison Museum 97National Transport &

Toy Museum 241

352

INDEX M

-R

museums & galleries continued

Nelson Provincial Museum 73

North Otago Museum 188

Okains Bay Maori & Colonial Museum 152-3

Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre 62

Otago Museum 195-6Picton Museum 53Quake City 133Rakiura Museum 278Shantytown 108Sir Edmund Hillary

Alpine Centre 175South Canterbury

Museum 170South Street Gallery 73Southland Museum

& Art Gallery 267Steampunk HQ 187Suter Art Gallery 73Te Ana Maori Rock Art

Centre 169-70Tectonic Jade 114Toitu Otago Settlers

Museum 192-3Vanished World

Centre 185Vintage Car & Machinery

Museum 167Waewae Pounamu 114Warbirds & Wheels 241World of WearableArt

& Classic Cars Museum 76

music 317-20

NNaseby 207-8national parks &

reserves 300-2, 301Abel Tasman National

Park 9, 84-7, 85, 8Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 174-9, 176, 31Arthur’s Pass National

Park 163Canaan Downs Scenic

Reserve 88Catlins 16, 271-5, 272, 16Craigieburn Forest

Park 162-3Hanmer Forest Park 158Hinewai Reserve 153

Kahurangi National Park 92-3

Lake Mahinapua Scenic Reserve 116

Mt Aspiring National Park 244

Nelson Lakes National Park 93-4

North Beach Reserve 100

Paparoa National Park 106-7

Pisa Conservation Area 249

Riccarton Bush 134Ruataniwha

Conservation Park 180Victoria Forest Park 99Westland Tai Poutini

National Park 117-25Wither Hills Farm

Park 62Nelson 72-9, 74Nelson Lakes National

Park 93-4Nelson region 72-94, 51

accommodation 50climate 50food 50highlights 51travel seasons 50

newspapers 329New Zealand Wars 293Nga Haerenga, New

Zealand Cycle Trail 42Ngakawau 103Nugget Point 274

OOamaru 15, 185-91, 186, 15Oamaru Victorian Heritage

Celebrations 26, 189Oban, see Stewart Island/

RakiuraOkarito 116-17Omakau 208-9Omarama 183-4Oparara Valley 104opening hours 330Ophir 208-9Otago 11, 48, 181-213, 182

accommodation 181climate 181food 181highlights 182travel seasons 181

Otago Central Rail Trail 11, 206, 11, 43

Otago Peninsula 12, 203-5, 192-3, 13

Owaka 274

Ppaddle boarding 74painting 316-17Papatowai 273Paradise 233paragliding 42

Nelson 74Queenstown 219, 221Wanaka 243

parasailing 46, 221parks & gardens

Botanic Gardens 129Caroline Bay Park 169Dunedin Botanic Garden

196Giant’s House 151-2Glenfalloch Woodland

Garden 204Hagley Park 132Oamaru Public Gardens

188Queens Gardens 73Queens Park 267Queenstown Gardens

217Riccarton Bush 134Timaru Botanic Gardens

170Tree Crop Farm 152

passports 335Peel Forest 166-7Pelorus Bridge 61Pelorus Sounds 60-1penguins 185-7, 188, 189,

204, 271phonecards 331Picton 52-8, 54Piopiotahi 262-3planning, see

also individual regionsactivities 29-35, 36-40,

41-6, 33, 37budgeting 18-19, 322,

326calendar of events 23-6internet resources 19itineraries 27-8, 134, 219

27, 28South Island basics 18-19South Island’s regions

47-8travel seasons 18-19, 23-6

Pohara 90-1politics 285, 295population 285Porpoise Bay 272Port Chalmers 202-3possums 300postal services 330Pounawea 274

public holidays 330pubs 21-2Punakaiki 106-7

QQueen Charlotte Drive 56Queen Charlotte Track

58-60Queenstown 12, 48, 215-33,

215, 216, 220, 224accommodation 214,

226-9activities 37-8, 217-22children, travel with 226climate 214drinking & nightlife 231-2entertainment 232festivals & events 225-6food 214, 229-31highlights 215history 215-16itineraries 219shopping 232sights 216-17tourist offices 232tours 222-5travel to/from 232-3travel seasons 214 travel within 233

Queenstown Winter Festival 24, 226

RRabbit Island 79radio 329rafting, see white-water

raftingRainbow Warrior 294,

295, 311Rakiura 275-82, 276, 278Rakiura Track 279Ranfurly 206-7Rapahoe 107Reefton 98-100Rees Valley 236Remarkables, the 12, 39, 12reserves, see national

parks & reserves restrooms 332Riverstone 190Riverton 266-7road distance chart 339Roaring Bay 274rock climbing 45, 218, 243Ross 116Routeburn Track 234, 235Roxburgh 210Ruataniwha Conservation

Park 180

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

353IN

DEX R- V

Ruby Bay Scenic Route 80rugby 16, 310, 314

Ssafety 328, 330-1

hitching 342road 342tramping 30

sailing 87, 153scuba diving, see divingseals & sea lions 57, 67, 69,

100-1, 188, 271Seddonville 101, 103Selwyn 162-4senior travellers 325Ship Cove 56Ship Creek 125skiing & snowboarding 14,

22, 36-40, 37Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 177Canterbury 39-40, 165Cardrona 249Hanmer Springs 158-9Methven 164Mt Hutt 165Otago 40Queenstown & Wanaka

37-8, 241-3, 249, 14, 38

Selwyn 162skydiving 45-6

Fox Glacier 124Franz Joseph Glacier 119Geraldine 168Glenorchy 235Methven 165Motueka 81Queenstown 219Wanaka 243

snorkelling 57snowboarding, see skiing &

snowboardingSouthern Scenic Route

265-7Southland 48, 265-82, 252

accommodation 251climate 251food 251highlights 252travel seasons 251

spelunking, see cavingSplit Enz 319sports 285, 314, see

also individual sportsSpringfield 162St Bathans 208Stewart Island/Rakiura

275-82, 276, 278

Stockton 103Surat Bay 274surfing 45

Catlins 272Dunedin 196Kaikoura 67

sustainable travel 34

Tta moko 305-6Taieri Gorge Railway 196Takaka 88-90Tarakohe Harbour 90Taramea Bay 266Tasman Glacier & Lake 175tattoos 305-6Tautuku Bay 273taxes 336taxis 342Te Anau 253-7, 254Te Anau Downs 261Te Anau-Milford Hwy 260-1Te Araroa 35Te Waewae Bay 266Te Waikoropupu Springs 88telephone services 18,

19, 331Three Mile Lagoon 117Timaru 168-71, 169time 18, 331toilets 332tourist information 332train travel 342tramping 21, 29-35, 33

Abel Tasman Coast Track 84-7

Alex Knob Track 119Alexandra-Clyde 150th

Anniversary Walk 209Arrow River Bridges

Track 237Banks Peninsula Track

153Ben Lomond Track 218Blue Pools Walk 250Bridal Track 250Callery Gorge Walk 119Cape Foulwind Walkway

100-1Caples Track 234, 235Charming Creek

Walkway 103Circle Track 264Coast to Coast 279Copland Track 125Croesus Track 111Douglas Walk 119Dune Lake Walk 125Dusky Track 264

Ellery Creek Walkway 126Fenian Track 104Floodwall Walk 108Fox River Cave Walk 106Gibbston River Trail 223Gillespie Pass 250Godley Head Walkway 139Greenstone Track

234, 235Hapuka Estuary Walk 126Hari Hari Coastal Walk

116Heaphy Track 92-3, 104Hokitika Heritage

Walk 112Hollyford Track 260Hooker Valley Track

175-6Hump Ridge Track 266Inland Pack Track 106Ka Roimata o Hine

Hukatere Walk 118 Kahikatea Swamp Forest

Walk 125Kaikoura Coast Track 70Kaikoura Peninsula

Walkway 67Karamea Estuary

Walkway 103Kea Point Track 176Kepler Track 257-8,

264, 257Lake Angelus Track 94Lake Gunn Nature

Walk 261Lake Sylvan tramp 233Mahinapua Walkway 116Marlborough Sounds 56Milford Track 258, 260,

259, 21, 31Minaret Burn Track 241Minnehaha Walk 122Moraine Walk 122Mt Cargill-Bethunes

Gully Walkway 196-7Mt Robert Circuit

Track 93Mt Somers track 166North West Circuit

Track 279Nydia Track 61Old Ghost Road 101Oparara Valley Track 104Point Elizabeth

Walkway 108Punakaiki-Porari Loop 106Pupu Hydro Walkway 88Queen Charlotte Track

58-9Queenstown Hill

Walkway 218

Rakiura Track 279Rameka Track 88Rees-Dart Track 234-5Rob Roy Glacier Track

244 Roberts Point Track 119Routeburn Nature

Walk 233Routeburn Track 234,

235Sealy Tarns Track 176Smoothwater Bay

Track 126Snout Track 52St Arnaud Range

Track 93St James Walkway 157Takaka Hill Walkway 88Tasman Glacier View

Track 175Tatare Tunnels 119Te Ara a Waiau Walkway/

Cycleway 118Te Weheka Walkway/

Cycleway 122Tiki Trail 218Tirohanga Track 52Truman Track 106Tunnel Beach Walkway

196Wangapeka Track 104Water Race Walk 116Wentworth Bridge

Loop 223West Coast Treetops

Walkway 116West Matukituki Valley

Track 244Wharekai Te Kou

Walk 126Wilkin Valley Track 250

TranzAlpine Railway 13, 108, 13

travel to/from New Zealand 335-6

travel within New Zealand 336-42

Treaty of Waitangi 290, 291trees 300trekking, see trampingTuatapere 265-6TV 316, 329Twizel 179-80

UUlva Island 277-8, 15

Vvacations 330visas 18, 332volunteering 333

354

INDEX W

-Z

WWaikawa 273Waimangaroa 103Wainui Bay 90Waipara Valley 161Waitaki Valley 184-5walks, see trampingWanaka 48, 214, 215, 241-8,

215, 242wars 293waterfalls

Fantail Falls 127Humboldt Falls 261Matai Falls 274McLean Falls 273Purakaunui Falls 274Thunder Creek Falls 127Wainui Falls 90

weather 18, 23-6, 325, see also individual regions

websites 19, 30, 37weights 329West Coast 47, 95,

95-127, 96accommodation 95climate 95highlights 96

travel seasons 95Westland 112-17Westland Tai Poutini

National Park 117-25Westport 100-3whales 68-9, 299, 9Whataroa 116whitebait 114white-water rafting 46

Buller Gorge 97Franz Joseph Glacier

119-20Hanmer Springs 158Kaikoura 67Peel Forest 167Queenstown 219Wanaka 243

wi-fi 328Wildfoods Festival 23, 114wildlife 297-99, see

also individual specieswineries 22

Gibbston 223Kurow 185Marlborough region

64-5, 63, 21, 25Neudorf 80

Seifried 79-80Waimea 79Waipara Valley 161Wanaka 241Woollaston 80

women in NZ 311women travellers 333work 333-4World Buskers Festival

23, 140WWOOF 323

Yyellow-eyed penguins

186-7, 188, 189, 204, 271

Zziplining 222zoos & wildlife reserves

DOC Te Anau Wildlife Centre 253

Eco World Aquarium 52Kaki Visitor Hide 179Kiwi Birdlife Park 217Kotuku Sanctuary 116Orana Wildlife Park 134-5

Orokonui Ecosanctuary 203

Nature’s Wonders Naturally 203

Penguin Place 204Point Kean Seal

Colony 67Royal Albatross

Centre 203Wai Ariki Farm Park 157West Coast Wildlife

Centre 118Willowbank Wildlife

Reserve 135

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

355N

OTES

356

NO

TES

357N

OTES

358

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map LegendMap Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Behind the ScenesIndexMap Legend