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Behind the Scenes
OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, use-ful advice and interesting anecdotes:Ann Alderson, Christer Ferm, Cindy Poole, David Hildebrand, Joella Jacobs, Kevin Samuels, Lotte Oostebrink, Mingga Anggawan, Patrick Teunissen, Ulrich Giebel
WRITER THANKSDavid EimerThanks to Daniel McCrohan for his sterling work on previous editions. Thanks also to Megan Eaves and Julie Sheridan at Lonely Planet. Special gratitude to Emi Yang for her invaluable assistance.
Trent HoldenFirst up a massive thanks to Megan Eaves for commissioning me on this title. A massive honour indeed to cover a city of this magni-tude. Also wanted to say a big thank you to fellow LP colleagues based in the Běijīng office, including Vega Liu for all your great tips, beers and assistance along the way, and Guan ‘Coco’ Yuanyuan for letting me use the office as a temporary workspace – a big help! A shout out to everyone who I shared a beer with, and the tips on places to check out. As always lots of love to my girlfriend, Kate Morgan, and all my family and friends in Melbourne and London.
THIS BOOKThis 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Beijing guidebook was researched and written by David Eimer and Trent Holden. The previous two editions were written by David Eimer, Damian Harper and Daniel McCrohan. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Assisting Cartographer Anthony PhelanCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jane Atkin, Cheree Broughton, Jennifer Carey, Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Jane Grisman, Coco Guan, Kate James, Lauren Keith, Kate Kiely, Chris LeeAck, Vega Liu, Laura Noiret, Tom O’Malley, Kirsten Rawlings, Ellie Simpson
259BEH
IND TH
E SCENES
Index23 Qianmen Dongdajie 77798 Art District 14, 26, 33,
134-5, 1341919 May Fourth
Movement 202
Aaccommodation 181-90, see
also Sleeping subindexcamping 171Cháoyáng 189-90costs 182Dashilar 188-9Dōngchéng Central 184-6Dōngchéng North 186-7Dōngchéng South 187Hǎidiàn 190Sānlǐtún 189-90Xīchéng North 187-8Xīchéng South 188-9
CCao Xueqin Memorial 155Capital Museum 26, 33, 117car travel 15, 21, 237Cathedral of Our Saviour 120CCTV Headquarters 136cell phones 248censorship 218, 244Chairman Mao Memorial
3 Former French Post Office........................D7 þ Shopping (p81) 4 Galaxy Soho................................................ H3 32 Foreign Languages Bookstore ................. D5 Gallery@Temple.................................(see 51) 33 Háoyuán Market......................................... D5 5 Imperial Granaries...................................... H1 34 Oriental Plaza.............................................. E6 6 Lao She Museum........................................D4 35 Shèng Xī Fú Hat Store ...............................D5 7 National Art Museum of China..................D3 36 Slow Lane .................................................... F4 8 Poly Art Museum ........................................ H1 37 Wangfujing Dajie......................................... D5 9 Shèng Xī Fú Hat Museum ..........................E2
10 Shǐjiā Hútòng Museum...............................F4 Ø Sports & Activities (p81) 11 St Joseph's Church ....................................D4 Bike Běijīng........................................ (see 27) 12 Ten Fu's Tea Culture House......................E4 38 Imperial City Ruins Park.............................D1 13 Zhìhuà Temple ........................................... H4 39 Jǐngshān Table Tennis Park...................... B2 40 Mílún Kungfu School.................................. E4 ú Eating (p73)
14 Běijīng Dàdǒng Roast Duck Restaurant .. F5 ÿ Sleeping (p184) 15 Chuān Bàn ...................................................H5 41 City Walls Courtyard...................................B1 16 Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant..........F1 42 Côté Cour .....................................................F3 Din Tai Fung....................................... (see 18) 43 Dragon King Hostel..................................... F1 17 Dōngzi Lǘròu Huǒshāo ............................. G4 44 Home Inn Plus..............................................E1 18 Grandma's ...................................................D5 45 Húlú Hotel.....................................................F3 19 Little Yúnnán ...............................................D2 46 Jǐngshān Garden Hotel..............................C2 20 Mǎn Fú Lóu ..................................................B2 47 Legendale Hotel.......................................... E5 Old Běijīng Hot Pot ............................. (see 5) 48 Raffles Běijīng .............................................D6 21 Temple Restaurant.....................................C2 49 Red Capital Residence................................ F1 22 Wángfǔjǐng Snack Street...........................D6 50 Red Wall Garden......................................... F4 23 Wǔgē Jīchì.....................................................F1 51 Temple Hotel...............................................C2 24 Yuèbīn Fànguǎn ..........................................D3
25 Zuǒ Lín Yòu Shè ..........................................D2 ï Information (p239) 52 Bank of China..............................................D4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p78) 53 Běijīng Tourist Information Center.......... G7 26 Alley Coffee..................................................C2 54 China International Travel Service........... E5 27 Biking Cafe...................................................C2 55 HSBC............................................................G6 28 Drunk............................................................E4 56 Peking Union Medical College Hospital... E5 29 Slow Boat Brewery Taproom.....................F1
ï Transport (p230) ý Entertainment (p80) 57 Airport Bus .................................................. E4 30 Cháng'ān Grand Theatre .......................... G6 58 CITS – International Train Tickets...........G6
DBěijīng Zoo Market (1.4km);Běijīng Planetarium (1.5km);Paleozoological Museum of China (1.8km);Běijīng Zoo & Běijīng Aquarium (2km)
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278
BĔIHĂI PARK & XĪCH
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3 Déshèngmén Gateway............................... C1 ý Entertainment (p123) 4 Guǎngjì Temple...........................................B4 30 East Shore Jazz Café................................. D3 5 Hòuhǎi Lakes...............................................C2 31 Mei Lanfang Grand Theatre...................... A3 6 Lu Xun Museum ..........................................A4
7 Mei Lanfang Former Residence................C3 þ Shopping (p123) 8 Miàoyīng Temple White Dagoba...............A4 32 Běijīng Books Building...............................B6 9 Nine Dragon Screen ...................................C3 33 Sanfo Camping Shop................................. A4 10 Prince Gong's Residence...........................C3 34 Three Stone Kite Shop ..............................D3 11 Round City ...................................................D4 35 Yandai Xiejie................................................D2 12 Silver Ingot Bridge ......................................D2
13 Song Qingling Former Residence.............C2 Ø Sports & Activities (p120) 14 South Cathedral..........................................B7 36 Golden Sail Water Sports Club.................C2 15 Temple of Ancient Monarchs....................B4 37 Hòuhǎi Exercise Park................................. C2 16 White Dagoba..............................................D4 38 Hòuhǎi Park.................................................C2 17 Xiǎoxītiān .....................................................C3
23 Qìngfēng Steamed Dumpling Shop..........D4 ï Information (p239) 24 Royal Icehouse............................................D3 45 Běijīng Tourist Information Centre..........D3 25 Wang Pang Zi...............................................D2
ï Transport (p230) û Drinking & Nightlife (p122) 46 Běijīng North Train Station ....................... A2 26 Await Cafe....................................................B4
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a...
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3
33 X
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t....
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7
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12
Boo
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m...
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34
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5
52 T
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C
arm
en...
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24)
53
Tre
e...
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13
Des
ert R
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6 û
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e 54
)
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35
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4
15 D
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E4
36
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ing
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X
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(see
75)
16 G
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37
Cho
cola
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6
17
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38 D
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18
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4
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(see
24)
55 C
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6
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2
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.(se
e 62
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Indi
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see
16)
40
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at L
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win
g...
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D1
56
Pol
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rnat
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3
284
SĀNLǏTÚN
& CHÁOYÁN
G
57
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4
75 P
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7
76
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E6
97
Int
erna
tiona
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1 þ
Sho
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146)
77 Sān
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C3
98
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8
58 3
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D3
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6
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4)
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tern
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24)
71
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rad.
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93
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94
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1
285
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æ Top Sights (p152) 10 Jade Belt Bridge ......................................... B2 1 Summer Palace........................................... C1 11 Jade River.................................................... B2 12 Long Corridor...............................................C1 æ Sights (p154) 13 Marble Boat..................................................B1 2 17-Arch Bridge.............................................C3 14 North Palace Gate.......................................C1 3 Boathouses.................................................. B1 15 Wénchāng Gallery ...................................... C2 4 Buddhist Fragrance Pavilion ..................... C1 16 West Causeway ...........................................B1 5 Buddhist Temple of the Sea of
8 Gate Tower of the Cloud- ÿ Sleeping (p190) Retaining Eaves........................................ B1 18 Aman at Summer Palace ...........................C1 9 Hall of Benevolence & Longevity..............C2
286
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æ Sights (p154) 12 Propaganda.................................................C2 1 Arthur M Sackler Museum of Art & Wǔ .........................................................(see 8) Archaeology ............................................. A1 13 Wǔdàokǒu Beer Garden.............................C1 2 Great Bell Temple.......................................C4
3 Peking University........................................ A1 ý Entertainment (p159) 4 Qīnghuá University..................................... B1 14 13 Club ..........................................................B1 5 Yuán Dynasty Walls Relics Park ...............D3 15 UME International Cineplex......................B4
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Our WritersDavid EimerPlan Your Trip, Understand, Survival Guide, Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South, Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn, The Great Wall, Ming Tombs, Chuāndǐxià, Shídù, Wǎnpíng TownDavid has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he
moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since 2006.
Trent HoldenForbidden City & Dōngchéng Central, Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North, Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North, Dashilar & Xīchéng South, Sānlǐtún & CháoyángA Geelong-based writer (located just outside Melbourne) Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa
and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and under-ground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books about idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor and reviewer and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.