Beginner's Guide to Bonsai (0.52MB)

Beginner’s Guide to BonsaiSpecial Report

Ruth Morgan

© Copyright www.BeautifulBonsaiSecrets.com 1

http://www.BeautifulBonsaiSecrets.com


Table of Contents Page

Do you want a bonsai like this? 3

My top 5 tips for beginners 4

So how do I start a bonsai tree? 5

How do I choose a species? 6

What care does a bonsai tree need? 7

Styles of Bonsai 9

Repotting 12

Pruning 13

Wiring 15

Pots 16

Feeding 17

Some bonsai trees suitable for beginners 19




Do you want a bonsai like this?

Yes? Then it is possible! And you can have some fun while you create it! There is nothing magical about bonsai trees - you can soon learn how to

create your very own bonsai tree. You can experience the satisfaction of working with nature to design and style a tree, using your tools and

your imagination.

This report will guide you through some of the basics - a step at a time,

so that you don’t become overwhelmed. But it’s not a manual on every advanced bonsai technique known. My aim is very simple - to get you

started and then to keep you going on your bonsai journey.

If you’re interested in joining me on this journey then read on and

enjoy!

Ruth Morgan




My top 5 tips for beginners

Tip 1 Don’t be put off by information overload. In the world of bonsai lack of information is not the problem! If you put the

word ‘bonsai’ in an internet search engine you will get millions of results. It’s so easy to feel overwhelmed by all this information

and to give up before you get a chance to start. Please don’t! What you need is some help to direct you to the appropriate

reliable information. That leads me on to the next tip.

Tip 2 Find a more knowledgeable person to help you. The ideal

scenario would be to find one or two bonsai enthusiasts who live in your area. Such people are usually only too happy to answer

your questions and to give you advice e.g on what type of trees grow well in your climate. If you can’t find someone locally then

you can join a bonsai forum on the internet. Such sites vary in quality so it’s best to get a recommendation for a helpful forum.

Tip 3 Build up your bonsai collection, toolkit and knowledge gradually. Don’t try and learn everything or acquire an extensive

bonsai collection with every possible tool in 6 months. Go for the gradual approach – acquire or buy one or two or three trees.

Perhaps one fairly mature bonsai and a couple of specimens at an earlier stage of growth so that you can fashion their

development. Start with a basic toolkit. Read and acquire information on a ‘little and often’ basis.

Tip 4 Practice, practice, practice …. No amount of theory can compare with the hands on experience of working on bonsai

trees. That is how you will learn to grow and style bonsai in your particular environment, be that indoors or outdoors. Once you

have enough basic information and tools to get started don’t be afraid to get going – and to make mistakes. That happens to

everyone and it is the best way to learn.

Tip 5 Don’t ‘over fuss’ your bonsai. For the novice with one

bonsai tree there is a huge temptation to give it too much attention. Certainly its moisture requirements need to be




checked regularly but it doesn’t need to be pruned every time a

new leaf appears. There are times when bonsai trees need to be allowed periods of growth to develop properly. That is why it is

often a good idea for those new to bonsai to have more than one tree so that the risk of giving too much attention to one bonsai is

reduced.

So how do I start a bonsai tree?

The techniques needed to grow a bonsai tree are similar to those

used in general horticulture. Here are 6 methods to acquire a bonsai tree.

1. Buy a ready-made bonsai. Many stores sell what they

describe as ‘bonsai trees’ but you should think twice before buying from a supermarket or garage. These are often not

bonsai trees at all. If you want a good specimen you should go to a specialist nursery. These bonsai trees can be expensive due to

transport costs and the length of time taken to grow the tree but it will be well worth the investment.

2. Buy garden centre stock. There is a huge choice of deciduous

and coniferous trees available at reasonable prices. There are a few things you should check before buying. Make sure that the

tree is healthy and that it has good potential for a bonsai - examine the surface roots, trunk and branches. For the

impatient types it is possible to transform garden stock to the beginnings of a bonsai in a few hours!

3. Grow from cuttings. The advantage to this method is that the

tree will look exactly like the parent plant. The right time to take cuttings will depend on the nature of the cutting (softwood,

hardwood or root) and you should ensure that you carry out this work in the right season.

4. Grow from seed. This method requires patience – some seeds

e.g. hawthorn can take 2 years to germinate! And after germination it will take a long time before the tree is ready to be




styled as a bonsai.

5. Collect from the wild. Trees collected from the wild are called

yamadori. You will need the permission of the landowner before you take this approach but remember that in some areas it is

forbidden to collect trees. Once collected, trees will need to be left for some time before starting as bonsai.

6. Air layering. This is a more advanced technique and requires

some skill so may not be ideal for those starting out in bonsai. Air layering is a relatively quick method of growing a bonsai tree

as you can use a mature branch as a basis for the new tree. Some of the bark is cut away and covered in sphagnum moss to

encourage the growth of roots. Once these are established the branch is cut away and then forms the trunk of a new bonsai

tree.

How do I choose a species?

There is a huge choice of species

that can be developed into bonsai trees. But some species are more

popular than others and we will look at a few of them later in the

report.

Some species are more suitable

for the beginner as they are quite forgiving in their requirements. I

recommend that you start with one of those!

You will need to consider whether you want to keep your bonsai tree indoors or outdoors. Remember that all trees are designed

for the outdoors and many of them require a dormant period in cold conditions every year. Such trees are therefore not suitable

for indoor growth.




The trees that can be grown indoors are tropical trees that like

warm temperatures. They have specific requirements in terms of humidity and light and if these are ignored the trees will not

thrive or die.

There is also the choice between deciduous and coniferous trees.

Many deciduous trees provide spectacular leaf colours in the autumn (or fall!).

What care does a bonsai tree need?

Here are 10 things that you should consider when caring for bonsai trees.

1. Watering. This is the single most important factor in

maintaining healthy, thriving bonsai trees. Due to the porous nature of bonsai soil it cannot retain moisture and so needs

regular watering. Lack of water can cause the tree to die. Test the soil daily during the growing season and water as required.

In winter, outdoor bonsai require less frequent watering but still need to be checked.

2. Feeding. Bonsai trees require a regular supply of nutrients in

the growing season. Three key elements (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) are applied at different ratios at different times

of the year. For example, in the autumn you do not want to encourage growth by adding nitrogen and so a nitrogen free

fertiliser is used.

3. Species. Different species have different care requirements and you should find out as much as possible about your

particular species. There are many reference books and online resources that will help you.

4. Time of year. Trees require more care in the growing season

than the dormant season. Some species e.g. tropical trees that are often grown indoors require constant care throughout the

year. During the winter some outdoor bonsai may require




protection from extreme cold or heavy rainfall.

5. Location. Some trees prefer sun whilst others prefer shade.

Species such as Acer palmatum (Japanese maple) require protection from strong wind. Indoor bonsai need plenty of light.

6. Temperature. Tropical trees e.g. Ficus (fig) thrive in hot

conditions whereas hardy varieties need a dormant period in cold conditions every year.

7. Pests and diseases. These affect bonsai trees just like other

plants but can be treated using traditional organic or inorganic treatments. But prevention is better than cure! Adopt good

horticultural practice to minimise the risk of diseases.

8. Repotting. This needs to be carried out on a regular basis. The frequency will depend on the species and the stage of

development. The roots need to be pruned when the tree is repotted to ensure that the tree remains healthy. Various factors

will influence the degree of pruning required but as a general guideline you should aim to remove about a third of the roots.

9. Pruning / wiring. These techniques enable bonsai trees to be

styled to the desired style and size. Bonsai trees are not special dwarf varieties - they remain small because they are pruned

regularly. After wiring check the tree regularly to avoid damaging the bark.

10. Soil. Bonsai trees are totally dependent on their roots within

a confined pot to provide all the moisture and nutrients they need to thrive. The soil is therefore very important and needs to

be porous and free draining. Ordinary compost is not suitable. It is possible to buy ready made bonsai soil or to make your own.

If you consider these 10 things when caring for your bonsai trees

you will be well on the road to growing healthy, thriving bonsai trees.




Styles of Bonsai

Bonsai can be classified into five basic styles: formal upright,

informal upright, slanting, cascade, and semi-cascade. These classifications are based on the overall shape of the tree and how

much the trunk slants away from an imaginary vertical axis. There are many more bonsai styles that are variations of these

five basic styles. Some examples include twin trunk, windswept, broom and root over rock styles.

Formal Upright

The formal upright style has classic

proportions and is the basis of all bonsai. In this style, the form is

conical or sometimes rounded and the tree has an erect leader and

horizontal branches.

In choosing a nursery plant for this

style, make sure the trunk rises from the ground in a fairly straight line. The

trunk should be straight and not fork or branch out for the total height of

the tree. Trim off the small branches or twigs that are too close to the base and near the main stem. These branches detract

from the overall composition.

Informal Upright

The informal upright style has much the same branch

arrangement as the formal upright style, but the top — instead of

being erect as in the formal upright style — bends slightly to the front.

This bend makes the tree’s branches appear to be in motion

and enhances the look of informality.




Many nursery trees are naturally slanted. This makes them well

suited to the informal upright style. Check the tree’s slant by looking down at the trunk from above — from this angle the top

should slant to the front. If this view is not attractive, you may move the root ball to slant the tree in another direction.

If you choose a vertical tree at the nursery, and want to train it in the informal upright style, simply tilt the plant when potting it.

When you do this, trim the branches and foliage so they are scaled to the size of the tree.

Slanting

In the slanting style, the trunk

has a more acute angle than in the previous styles. The lowest

branch should spread in the direction opposite to that in

which the tree slants. The top of the tree is bent slightly

toward the front. The lower branches are arranged in

groups of three, starting about one-third the way up the trunk.

Slanting trees in nature are called “leaners” — trees that have been forced by the wind and gravity into non-vertical growth.

The attitude of the slanting style falls between the upright and cascade styles.

Cascade

In the cascade style the trunk starts by growing upward from the

soil, then turns downward abruptly, and reaches a point below the bottom edge of the container. For this reason, the container

should be placed on the edge of the table, or on a small stand.

The cascade style has most of its foliage below the soil surface.

This style is representative of a natural tree that is growing down the face of an embankment or mountain.




Training a tree in the cascade style

takes longer than in the slanting style. Choose a low-

growing species instead of forcing a tree that normally grows upright

into an unnatural form. Bend the whole tree forward so one back

branch is vertical and the side branches fall naturally.

Semi-Cascade

The semi-cascade style has a

trunk that is allowed to grow straight for a certain distance, and then is cascaded down at a

less abrupt angle than in the cascade style. The cascading branches are thought of as the front of the tree, and the back

branches are trained closer to the trunk than in the other styles. The semi-cascade should not reach below the bottom of the

container, but should go below the level of the soil surface.

Plants that are well adapted to the cascade and semi-cascade

styles are prostrate junipers, and flowering plants such as chrysanthemums, wisteria, willows and star jasmine.

Before potting a tree for bonsai in any of the five styles, keep in mind the image of how the tree will stand in the container. Don’t

plant a tree one way, and then uproot it to make a change. Keep your overall theme in mind when planting bonsai. Upright trees

should have a stabilized look in the container; slanted and




cascaded styles often have their upper root surfaces exposed to

imitate plants that grow this way in nature.

No matter what style you choose — whether single trunk

specimens or groups of trees from single roots — everything depends on your selection of plant material, and your ability to

visualize the bonsai’s final form.

Repotting

The roots of trees in their natural state usually radiate

unrestricted in all directions. But they can't do that in the limited space of a bonsai pot. Yet, strangely enough, a bonsai can and

does live to a great age, and in a healthy condition at that. It stands to reason that the soil confined within a small pot will lose

its nourishing power in a short time.

The three nourishing elements prerequisite to plant life —

phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen — can be replenished by means of fertilizers, but the plant requires other elements such

as lime, sulphur, magnesium and iron as well, though in very small quantities. These may be found in the soil, but are soon

exhausted in the small space of the pot. So if left untended for some time, the bonsai suffers malnutrition and will consequently

wither sooner or later. Here is where the need for repotting comes in - to refresh the soil of the pot.

Another aim is to rearrange the ramifications of the roots of the bonsai to be repotted. When left in the pot too long, the bonsai

will become root-bound, that is, the roots will eventually develop into a mass of hairs which prevent the absorption of fertilizers. If

left longer, the volume of the roots will increase, lifting the soil surface above the rim of the pot.

Hence the necessity of pruning the roots, removing all the parts no longer capable of activity and supplying new soil, to stimulate

the growth of new root-hairs. Different bonsai require different intervals for repotting. Some are suited for spring repotting and

others for autumn.




Generally speaking, evergreens are repotted once every four or

five years. Broad-leaved deciduous trees, such as the Maple and the Japanese elm, once every two years. But the key point is

that bonsai are repotted when their roots become pot bound

The seasons for repotting vary with the regional climates. But a

close observation of the condition of each plant should dictate the time it should be repotted. This means that different bonsai

should be repotted at different times. Generally speaking the best time for repotting is just when the plant awakes from its

winter inactivity, or, in other words, when its buds are beginning to swell.

There are exceptions to the rule. For example Japanese Quince and Winter Jasmine, which herald the coming of spring up on the

highlands when everything is still in the grip of winter, are generally repotted just as they are beginning to shed their

leaves, probably because they continue their growth right through the winter.

In Japan citrus trees and other evergreens are repotted, as a rule, when the temperature is from 60° F to 70° F, or in other

words toward the end of April, while the azalea is best transplanted after its blooming season is over. Though spring is

the best time for repotting, bonsai can also be repotted in autumn, but as much before mid autumn as possible.

Early winter is a little too late, because of the frost. What is important is to allow enough time for the growth of fresh root-

hairs before the plant becomes dormant after repotting. Autumn repotting is impossible for subtropical plants.

Pruning

An important aspect of caring for bonsai trees is the technique of pruning. Both the roots and the branches need to be pruned. In

this section we will consider how to prune a bonsai to create the right shape.




It is possible to create a bonsai by buying a shrub from a

nursery / garden centre and to shape it by pruning. In fact this is probably the cheapest and easiest way to acquire a bonsai.

You should choose a shrub which has good potential i.e. a solid thick trunk with an interesting trunk line and lots of branches

and twigs. Then prune the branches to reveal the trunk so that you can decide on the shape and style of your bonsai.

When pruning branches you should always use sharp tools and seal the wound to help the healing process. Japanese cut paste

or wound sealant are ideal for this. Pruning has the effect of thickening the trunk and encouraging the growth of branches

where there were none previously.

A beautiful bonsai can be created by pruning and then allowing

new growth to develop (clip and grow) without the need to wire. But this does require patience!

Once the initial shape has been established, bonsai require regular pruning to maintain their perfect form. New shoots will

grow out from the buds created during the previous growing season. These shoots will grow quickly and will need to be

pruned.

With most leaf bearing trees

you should prune when 6 or 8 new leaves have formed.

Prune back to 1 or 2 pairs of new leaves. Flowering

species should be pruned after they flower. When

pruning evergreens avoid using scissors as the tips will

turn brown. Instead, hold the foliage with the fingers and pinch.

You should avoid pruning late in summer because pruning

encourages new growth which won't have time to harden off before the winter. Most evergreens can be pruned throughout

the growing season whilst tropical species can be pruned anytime.




Wiring

Wiring is used to shape bonsai trees. The wiring technique

involves coiling wire around the branches and trunks and then bending them to the desired position. Once some growth has

taken place the branches will stay in the set position and the wire can then be removed.

Most bonsai will require wiring at some stage in their development to achieve the right shape. Those new to bonsai are

often nervous about wiring their bonsai for the first time but with some help and practice the skill can be mastered.

There are two types of bonsai wire - anodised aluminium and annealed copper. The copper wire is harder and more powerful

than the aluminium wire. For this reason beginners are advised to start with aluminium wire. The plastic coated wire sold in

garden centres is not recommended.

Bonsai wire comes in different thicknesses and as a general

guideline the wire should be one third the thickness of the branch or trunk.

To ensure appropriate spacing of the wire on the

branch or trunk aim to apply the wire at an angle

of 45o. Hold the wire in one hand and the branch with

the other.

Always try to anchor the

wire e.g. on the trunk or by wiring two branches

together. Start off with a piece of wire that is one third longer than the branch to be wired.

Once wired the branches can then be bent to shape gently. The flexibility of the branches will vary depending on their thickness

and the species of tree.




The best time to wire bonsai trees will depend on the climate and

the species. Also there is wide variation in the length of time required for branches to set after wiring. Generally conifers take

much longer than deciduous trees.

It is important to check the tree regularly for damage and to

remove the wire it it cuts into the bark. This is done using wire cutters. Some people unwind the wire so that it can be used

again. But this can result in damage to the bark or the snapping of branches.

Pots

Pots are to bonsai what frames are to pictures. The picture frame sets off to advantage the painting which it encloses. The most

magnificent bonsai tree would not be shown to best effect if it's planted in an unsuitable pot. The tree and the pot must blend to

make a harmonious whole if it's to be a thing of beauty. Lack of harmony there will detract much from the intrinsic value of a

bonsai.

As with clothes and shoes, size and style in a pot need to be

considered carefully. Just as a child's shoes would never fit the feet of an adult, or conversely an adult's shoes would look

absurd on a child, so the relationship between plant and pot in a bonsai. No matter how beautiful a bonsai pot may be, if it

overwhelms or overshadows the plant, it isn't suitable for the purpose. The important thing in a pot is that it must help bring

out the beauty, elegance, or sublimity of the tree.

Every bonsai tree must have a pot that suits it. A new one fresh

from the kiln does not harmonize with a tree bearing the aura of age, any more than does an antique pot with a sapling. The

same is true in regard to the shape and form. Deep, shallow, round, oblong; square, rectangular, and diamond-shaped pots —

all these have their uses. One type of pot will do for all kinds of tulips, but different bonsai trees require different types of pots

according to their form, size and shape.




Pots of gorgeous colour

are not appropriate for bonsai cultivation.

Since the object of a bonsai is to suggest a

landscape, the colour of the pot should be

symbolic of the earth or of rocks. For this

purpose pots in quiet colours like dark brown,

grey, black, dark red and dark purple are commonly chosen.

Appreciation of the beautiful as expressed by the Japanese is

characterized by a love of subdued effects. The Japanese aesthete often uses such untranslatable words as sabi and wabi,

which can best be explained as the reverse of garish and gaudy, a condition suggesting the mellowed patina of age. One of the

factors in elegance of pots or trays used for bonsai is soberness of colours. Ancient patinated pots are in keeping with aged trees

cultivated as bonsai.

Feeding

An important element in caring for bonsai trees is the feeding

regime. Unless bonsai are given the right nutrients at the right time they will not thrive. Therefore feeding, along with watering,

are essential aspects of caring for bonsai trees.

The reason why it is important to feed regularly is that the

porous soil used in bonsai pots cannot hold onto nutrients. The nutrients therefore need to be replenished on a regular basis

during the growing season.

There are three methods of applying fertiliser to your bonsai

trees.

1. Watering into the soil.

2. Using fertiliser pellets in the soil.




3. Spraying onto the leaves.

It is a matter of personal preference as to which method you adopt.

It is possible to buy specialist fertilisers specifically for bonsai.

However, general fertilisers work just as well provided you

understand some basic principles.

Three letters (N, P, K) appear on

the packaging of all good fertilisers. They represent the three main nutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus

and potassium. The numbers that you see e.g. N P K 15 30 15 represent the ratios of each nutrient. Higher numbers denote

higher strength of nutrients.

The three main nutrients have different functions and it is

important to understand this as different ratios are required at different times of the year.

For example, nitrogen promotes the growth of leaves and stems and should be increased when you want to encourage rapid

growth. Conversely, no nitrogen should be applied in the autumn as the tree prepares for the dormant winter period.

Different species of bonsai require different ratios of nutrients at different times of the year. So it is important to research this

aspect in order to give the appropriate care for you bonsai trees.

If you want to encourage rapid growth of young trees so that the

trunks thicken quickly you can introduce a super feeding regime. This works on the principle of using a variety of feeds in small

amounts very frequently.




Some Bonsai Trees Suitable for Beginners

Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster is a firm favourite with bonsai growers. This

popular garden shrub is an ideal specimen for those new to growing a bonsai tree. It is easy to grow and can be shaped into

many bonsai styles e.g. informal upright, cascade and root over rock.

Its leaves are small and glossy and contrast with the brightly

coloured berries which can be red, orange or yellow in colour.

These colourful berries can stay on the tree all through the

winter to brighten up your garden. In spring tiny flowers,

which can range from white to pink to red, cover the tree.

Cotoneaster is a hardy plant and should be kept outdoors

throughout the year. It thrives in full sun but can also be kept in semi-shade. It is tolerant of wind but should be protected from

frost.

During the summer regular watering is required - usually daily.

Watering can be less frequent during the winter but it is important to keep the soil moist at all times.

Cotoneaster should be given fertiliser during the growing season, but not during the flowering and fruiting period. Repot every

one or two years in spring.

Pruning of new shoots should be carried out regularly during the

growing season. This will encourage dense growth. Since wound healing is a slow process in cotoneasters it is best to cut

back old growth during the spring. Branches can also be shaped by wiring at this time.




Those new to growing bonsai trees should be re-assured by the

fact that cotoneasters can put up with heavy pruning! They are also very easy to propagate. So if you buy one cotoneaster from

a nursery you can then take cuttings to create several more plants over time and experiment with different styles of bonsai.

Take some time to choose a good specimen - one with a thick interesting trunk and lots of branches. Examples of two good

varieties for bonsai are Cotoneaster microphyllus and Cotoneaster horizontalis.

Juniper

Juniper is a popular bonsai tree. There are more than 50 species

of this evergreen shrub and they are frequently found on hillsides and mountains. Some of the classic Japanese juniper

bonsai are more than 200 years old.

Juniper is a hardy variety and

should be kept outdoors throughout the year. It can

withstand frost and will only need protection if temperatures are

consistently below freezing.

Juniper thrives in full sun but can

tolerate semi shade. Without sunlight there is a risk that

branches will wither and die.

Most styles are suitable for

juniper bonsai. You will often see cascade styles which mimic the natural habitat of the tree,

clinging to the mountainside. Sharis reflect the large sections of deadwood often observed in nature.

A popular bonsai species is Chinese Juniper (Juniperus chinensis) which is quite easy to grow. You can achieve wonderful colour

contrasts between the green foliage, grey-brown outer bark, orange-red under bark and the white-silver sharis and jins.




Juniper branches are relatively easy to wire but can take some

time to set in position. Branches which are a couple of years old respond better to wiring than older ones which are thicker and

more rigid.

Ensure that there is sufficient water during the growing season

but take care not to over water as juniper is susceptible to root rot. So it is important to use free draining porous soil. Feed on a

regular basis, omitting nitrogen in the autumn.

To maintain the right silhouette, continual pinching out of all

growing tips is essential. It is best to wait a few weeks after growth has started in the spring before starting to pinch out. Use

fingers and not scissors or the ends will turn brown.

Repotting should be carried out regularly, every two years

initially and then less frequently. Mid spring is the best time for repotting though it can be done later.

Chinese Elm

Anyone who is new to growing bonsai will not go far wrong with

a Chinese elm bonsai tree. Its growth pattern is predictable and it is easy to prune and shape as a bonsai. The broom style is

popular but it can also be shaped into most bonsai styles. So it's an ideal species on which to

practise bonsai techniques.

It's a versatile species and

is suitable for both indoor and outdoor growth. When

grown outdoors Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia) is

deciduous but if grown indoors it will remain more

or less evergreen.

The appearance of the bark is variable. Some varieties have

smooth bark whilst others have rough, corky bark with deep




fissures. Care needs to be exercised when wiring as the bark can

be easily damaged.

The varieties with smooth bark are generally not as hardy as

those with rough bark and they should be acclimatised slowly to cold conditions. So if they are to be kept outdoors during the

winter they should be placed outside in the autumn to allow them to harden up.

The toothed leaves are small and dark green in colour. When pinched, a new shoot grows from the base of nearly every leaf

and this results in a dense herringbone pattern of growth.

Chinese elm needs to be kept moist throughout the year. At

certain times e.g. in the spring, during high temperatures or when the sun is strong, the tree will require more water.

For outdoor bonsai the feeding regime will consist of high nitrogen during the spring and then balanced feed until late

summer. Indoor bonsai trees should be given balanced feed on a weekly basis during the spring and summer and monthly during

the winter, apart from when they are out of leaf.

The roots of Chinese elm grow vigorously and unless they are

pruned regularly the tree will not thrive.

Chinese elm can be kept in full sun but should be given partial

shade in very hot conditions. Some shade is required when it is kept indoors. In winter protect from harsh winds and prolonged

periods of rainfall.

Serissa

There are many flowering bonsai species but if you want one with a long flowering time then Serissa is ideal. It is also known

as 'Tree of a thousand stars'.




Serissa foetida (or Serissa

japonica) produces tiny, white trumpet shaped

flowers for long periods of the year. It has small

glossy leaves and a twisted and rough trunk.

Cultivars with variegated leaves, double or coloured

flowers have also been developed.

Its vigorous growth pattern makes it a popular bonsai species. Serissa can be propagated easily by taking softwood

cuttings in spring.

Serissa originates from south east Asia and is therefore a

subtropical species. It needs to be kept at temperatures of between 12 to 20oC ideally though some suggest it can survive

outdoors above 7oC.

In many parts of the world this means that it is an indoor bonsai.

But Serissa will benefit from being outdoors in part shade for a period during the summer, provided it is not moved too much.

When indoors, Serissa needs good light and should be protected from draughts.

It is important to have a good humid atmosphere for Serissa but do not overwater or stand the pot in water. If spraying, ensure

that there is good circulation of air to allow the flowers to dry quickly. Apply a balanced feed every 2 weeks during the growing

season and monthly during the winter.

Prune as required to maintain the shape of the tree. Pruning

during the summer will result in vigorous growth of shoots.

Repotting and pruning the roots has an unpleasant side effect.

Latin scholars will recognise the meaning of 'foetida' as foul-smelling. When the bark and roots are cut an obnoxious smell is




emitted! Repotting should be carried out every 2 years in the

spring.

Sometimes Serissa experiences yellowing and dropping of the

leaves and this indicates a problem with the growing conditions e.g. wrong humidity levels or location.

Most styles of bonsai are suitable for Serissa but the formal upright style does not suit the twisted trunk.

Thank you for downloading this Beginner’s Guide to Bonsai. I hope you’ve found it useful. For more information on bonsai and a step-by-step guide to growing and styling bonsai trees visit www.BeautifulBonsaiSecrets.com.

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Beginner's Guide to Bonsai (0.52MB)

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