Automotive Engg

*SERVICE & MAINTENANCE OF JAGUAR & LAND ROVER CARSSHEFIN SHUKKOORA2326213013

*BASIC INSTRUMENTS NEEDED FOR TUNING FOR ENGINE:Compression GaugeVacuum GaugeTachometer.FOR IGNITION SYSTEM:Power Timing lightDwell meterVoltmeterOhm meterFOR ELECTRIC SYSTEM:Voltmeter Ammeter ( 0 to 80 A)TachometerHydrometerBattery Load tester.FOR FUEL SYTEM:1. Fuel pump pressure Gauge

FOR EMISSION CHECKING1. Exhaust Gas analyzer

FOR COOLING1. Coolant Thermometer

*VEHICLE MAINTENANCEENGINE TUNING:Loose spark plugs, start engine to blow out carbon and dust, shut off engine and remove plugsTest engine compressionIf the compression pressure is less, perform engine service that will eliminate the trouble. If the compression is alright re-install the spark plugsRemove the distributor cap, clean it, visually check for carbon tracks and corroded terminals, chips, etc. replace if not in good condition.Clean and inspect distributor rotor and replace if it is not in good conditionInspect the high tension leads. If they are cracked or insulation damaged, replace themCheck distributor centrifugal advanceTest the vacuum advance

*ENGINE TUNING:Check the distributor contact points and clean them.Re-install distributor cap and replace wiringCheck battery state of charge, water level and hold down clampsCheck battery cables for damage, corrosion and loose connectionsIf the battery is over-charged or under-charged, check the dynamo (alternator) and regulatorCheck drive belts and tighten or replace them as requiredCheck the intake manifold bolts for tightness to proper specifications. Even a slight leak will reduce engine performanceCheck fuel lines for tight connections

*ENGINE TUNING:Check the cooling system for leaks, weak or collapsed hoses, correct coolant levelCheck and adjust accelerator linkage Check crank-case ventilation systemRemove carburetor air cleaner and check choke valve. Clean or replace air filer element if necessaryCheck and adjust contact point dwell and ignition timingAdjust idle speed and mixtureCheck the lube oil dipstickCheck the working of lights and horn. Adjust the head lamp for proper focusingCheck steering system for easiness

*SERVICING OF SPARK PLUGSRemove the H.T. wire from spark plug. To do this, slightly twist the rubber protector boot which partially covers the plug, To break the seal, grasp the boot and pull it away from the plug with steady even pressureMark each wire with the cylinder no. (use a paper tape)Remove any foreign material from around the plug hole by wiping with a rag or blowing airRemove the spark plugs and gaskets and keep them in order by which they are removed.An isolated plug showing an abnormal condition indicates that the problem is with that cylinder.Wipe off the exterior of the plug and inspect for proper sealing< Contd. On next slide>

*SERVICING OF SPARK PLUGSCheck for burned electrodes and dirty, fouled or cracked insulators.If new plugs are installed, make sure that they are of the correct type.Adjust the gap if necessary by bending the ground electrode. (use spark plug gauge)To clean the plug wash it with a petroleum solvent to remove oil filmDry the plug, use an abrasive type cleaner for the best cleaning jobClean the threads with a wire brushBlow out all abrasive particles with compressed airUse a thing stiff blade to clean the space between the plug shell and insulatorScrape out all carbon particles. Turn the plug upright and shake the deposits outRepeat until the plug is thoroughly clean.

*SERVICING OF SPARK PLUGSBlow out the remaining dirt with compressed airWiden the plug gap by bending the ground (Side) of electrode so that an ignition point file may be inserted between the electrodes.File the electrodes, until all the carbon is removed and the tip of the central electrode is flat across the top.Adjust the gap to correct specificationEnsure that the plug seating surface in the head is cleanInstall the plugTighten the plugs using a torque wrench to correct specification Most 14mm plugs have torque values approx. 4kg-m< Contd. On next slide>

*SERVICING OF SPARK PLUGSIf torque wrench is not available, tighten the plug finger tight, then using a socket wrench tighten it approx half a turnInspect the plug wires. If insulation is cracked, soaked or brittle, replace the wire.Clean the distributor capRe-install the plug wires to the same cylinder from which they were removed

*FUEL SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

CARBURETTOR FLOODING:Worn needle and seat.Leaky float.Excessive Fuel pump pressure.Improper float adjustment.

ROUGH IDLE:Improper idle mixture.Poor Compression.Intake Manifold leak.Defective spark plug wires.Cracked distributor cap.Stuck PCV valve.

*FUEL SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

STUMBLING DURING ACCELERATION:Defective accelerator pump.Improper adjustment of acceleration pump.Ignition misfire.

SLUGGLISH PERFORMANCE:Late ignition timing.Too rich or too lean mixtureDefective advance mechanism.

*IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLES AND CAUSES

ENGINE MISFIRES AT ALL SPEEDS:Defective plug wires.Cracked distributor cap.Fouled spark plug.Burned valves.ENGINE MISFIRES DURING ACCELERATION:Defective plug wiresFouled or worn plugsBurned contact pointsPartially shorted contact pointsOpen capacitorPoor primary circuitCarburetor problems

*IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLES AND CAUSES

ENGINE MISFIRES AT HIGH SPEEDS:Insufficient dwell angleCarburetor problems.

HARD STARTING:Burned contact points.Improper ignition timingDefective ballast resistorLow batteryPoor choke actionOpen capacitor Ignition timing too much advanced

*STARTING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

BATTERY NOT HOLDING CHARGE:Internal defect of batteryDirt on terminals / loose terminalsElectrical leakage / shortsExcessive electrical usage with car stopped / idlingBattery not used for long periodsBATTERY ALWAYS UNDER CHARGED:Defective alternator / generatorLow voltage regulator setting.Infrequent or slow driving with heavy electrical loadsExcessive charging circuit resistance Sulphated batteryToo many electrical accessories

*STARTING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

BATTERY USES EXCESSIVE WATER:High voltage regulator settingSulphated batteryHigh temperatureSLOW CRANKING SPEED:Excessive starter circuit resistanceDragging starter armatureShorted armature or fieldExcessive engine frictionWorn starter brushesSTARTED SPINS WITHOUT ENGAGING:Defective Bendix driveDirt or burr on starter shaft

*STARTING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

STARTER CLICKS WITHOUT CRANKING:Defective solenoid switchOpen starter cableDefective starterSTARTER SWITCH OR SOLENOID CHATTER:Poor battery connectionDefective solenoidExcessive starter circuit resistanceNO CRANKING, NO SOLENOID CLICK:Defective starter or ignition switchBroken wire solenoid or switchDefective solenoid or switch

*CHARGING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

NO CHARGE RATE:Defective alternator / generatorDefective voltage regulatorOpen or grounded field wireOpen circuitWorn or stuck brushesLOW CHARGE RATE:Regulator out of adjustmentDefective regulatorExcessive field circuit resistanceDefective alternator / regulatorWorn brushesSulphated battery.

*CHARGING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

HIGH CHARGE RATE:Regulator out of adjustmentDefective regulatorDefective batteryHigh battery temperatureAn accessory drawing excessive current even when the engine is not running

*PROBLEM : ENGINE WONT START

DUE TO PRIMARY CIRCUIT:

Burned or oxidized ignition pointsBallast resistor burned or openIgnition points not closingBreaker arm binding on pivot post, preventing closing of pointsBreaker arm spring weak or brokenBreaker arm distorted or bentDirty ignition pointsPrimary lead connection loosePrimary winding openOpen ignition switch circuit

*PROBLEM : ENGINE WONT START

DUE TO SHORT CIRCUITED PRIMARY CIRCUIT:Grounded primary coil winding, grounded ignition switch or lead will cause excessive current flow and will usually cause wires to burn

POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR GROUNDED PRIMARY CIRCUIT:Ignition points not opening or closing due to improper adjustmentIgnition points not opening due to worn rubbing block on breaker armFaulty insulating bushing on breaker armCracked or faulty insulator at distributor primary terminalGrounded condenserDistributor-to-coil lead groundedPrimary coil winding grounded

*PROBLEM : ENGINE WONT START

DUE TO FAULTY SECONDARY CIRCUIT:Corroded spark plug cable terminals Cracked insulation on cables (H.T.)Ignition coil weak or inoperativeMoisture on ignition coil, terminals, distributor cover, spark plug porcelain or on distributor.Improper type of spark plugsCracked distributor cap or burnt carbon brush in the capImproper connection to spark plugs ( not correct as per firing order)Spark plugs damaged, dirty or wet, porcelain cracked or gaps improperly adjustedRotor contact spring bent or brokenDistributor rotor groundedDistributor cap center terminal broken or missing

*PROBLEM : ENGINE WONT START

DUE TO BATTERY:Battery rundownTerminal loose or badly corrodedImproper groundBattery cable undersizeDUE TO EXCESSIVE FUEL SUPPLY ( FLOODING ):Accumulation of liquid fuel in the inlet manifold as well as cylinder.The engine wont start until the rich mixture formed by flooding is pumped outREASONS FOR FLOODING:Choke not operating properlyAutomatic choke not properly setFloat level not properly setDirty worn or faulty needle valve and seat

*

Float sticking or rubbing against side of fuel bowlLeak in the float allowing fuel insideFuel pump pressure too highDUE TO INSUFFICIENT FUEL SUPPLY:Carburetor inlet needle stuck in its seat due to gum in fuelFloat level too lowClogged inlet filter at carburetorFaulty or insufficient capacity fuel pumpFuel pump strainer closedFaulty fuel pump bowl gasketFlexible line twisted or restrainedFuel line from tank clogged or restrictedVent in fuel tank filler cap clogged or restrictedWorn fuel pump camshaft lobe.

*REASONS FOR STALLING OF ENGINE

Engine idle speed set too lowLarge air leakage in intake manifoldIgnition points need attentionVapor lockOver supply of fuel ( flooding)Valves set too tightNeedle / seat of carburetor in-operativeContaminated fuelChoke sticking or improperly adjustedFaulty ignition systemSpark plugs damp/ dirty or incorrect gapIn-operative distributor advanceRestricted exhaust system

*REASONS FOR STALLING OF ENGINE

Burnt, warped or sticking valvesLow compressionEngine over heatingLoose or corroded wire connectionsIncorrect idle mixture adjustmentIncorrect carburetor float seatingLeaking PCV ( if provided)

*REASONS FOR HIGH ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION

External oil leaksLeaky piston rings (Due to wear)Leaky piston rings ( Due to sticking caused by gummy deposits). Free the rings with suitable solvent. Blue smoke indicates badly leaking ringsWorn pistons and cylindersCylinder block distorted by tightening cylinder head bolts unevenlyExcessive clearance between the valve stems and guidesWorn main bearing / Con-rod bearingOil pressure too high ( wrong setting of oil pressure relief valve or clogged relief passage)Loose piston pinsGrade of oil too light ( hard driving on hot day will also consume more oil)

*REASONS FOR HIGH ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION

Clogged crank case ventilation systemIntake manifold leak together with valve door gasket leakOil level too highPiston ring gaps not staggeredIncorrect ring sizePiston rings out of round, broken or scoredRing grooves or return slots cloggedRings stuck in groovesCompression rings installed upside down

*TRANSMISSION LAYOUT

*CLUTCH PROBLEMSCLUTCH DRAG:When the clutch pedal is depressed fully, the clutch disc is not completely released. As a result the clutch continues to rotate being dragged by the rotation of the engine flywheel. Clutch drag causes clashing of gears especially when shifting from NEUTRAL to LOW or REVERSEPedal free travel ( play) is excessive. As a result pedal cannot disengage the clutchWorn clutch linkageMal-adjustment of release leverClutch disc warped out of trueHigh spots on clutch facingsBroken or loose clutch facingsLoose rivets in facing< Contd. On next slide >

*CLUTCH DRAG continuedClutch disc hub binds on the splined clutch shaft due to bent shaft fit burred splines or splines covered with gummy oil or dirtClutch disc wobbles due to broken springs in hubClutch disc hub out of trueClutch shaft bentWorn out bearing ( spigot )Transmission out of alignment with flywheel housingClutch pressure plate warped thus throwing release lever out of adjustmentFlange of clutch cover out of alignment with flywheel due to loose attaching screws, bent flange, dirt between flange and flywheelGrease on clutch facingEngine misaligned due to broken engine mountsLoose flywheel housing to engine attaching boltsRelease fork pivot worn

*CLUTCH PROBLEMSCLUTCH SLIPS:Clutch disc slips whenever the pressure plate fails to hold it tight against the flywheel on severe slips engine speed will rise above normal on full throttle. When there is no free play of the pedal, clutch starts slipping.Other causes of slipping are:Driving with foot resting on pedalBinding or sticking of pedal or its linkagesBinding or sticking of clutch disc hub on clutch shaftBinding of clutch release leverSticking of release bearing sleeveWeak or broken clutch pressure springsWorn clutch facingsFacing covered with dirt, grease or oil.

*Facing burntRelease levers improperly adjustedPressure plate sticks.CLUTCH GRABS:A clutch is said to grab when it engages too abruptly. The usual causes are:Loss of tension in cushioning plates in the rim of the steel clutch disc. These plates cause the clutch facings to bulge outward slightly. The resulting springy action of the facings aid in producing a smooth, gentle clutch engagement.Use of wrong type of clutch facingGrease or oil on facingsClutch springs too stiff Momentary binding in clutch linkage while clutch being engagedExposed rivet head due to excessively worn facing or loose rivets

*clutch problems continued

CLUTCH CHATTERS:If a clutch chatters while it is being engaged, the trouble is caused by rapid gripping and slipping. The usual causes are:Somewhat sticky clutch friction surfaces due to gummy lubricantClutch friction surfaces damp or wetWeak clutch springsSlight binding in clutch linkage during engagement.Slight binding of pressure plate during engagementLoose engine mounts.

*clutch problems continued

CLUTCH PEDAL PULSATES:A nervous pedal when slight pressure is applied on pedal with engine running. Pulsation will stop with more pressure on pedal. Causes are:Loose or improperly adjusted engine mountsCollar on clutch release sleeve does not run true due to bent clutch shaft or clutch shaft may be misaligned between crank shaft and transmission.Clutch release levers not adjusted to uniform heightCLUTCH RATTLES:This condition occurs when engine is idling with transmission neutral. Causes:Excessive clearance at pressure plate driving lugsAnti-rattle springs or retractor springs or release levers weak, broken or disconnectedLooseness in clutch pedal operating linkagesLoose flywheel

*clutch problems continuedNOISE WHEN CLUTCH PEDAL IS DEPRESSED:Clutch release bearing dirty, worn, damaged, broken or inadequately lubricated Clutch shaft bearing or bushing in crankshaft worn, damaged, broken or inadequately lubricated. Clutch shaft rear bearing at front end of transmission worn, dirty or lacks lubricantNOISE WHEN PEDAL IS RELEASED:Misalignment of transmission with engine causing slight wobble of clutch disc hub. ( noticeable @ engine idling or @ LOW speeds )Disc hub loose fir on splined clutch shaftDisc damper springs weak or broken No pedal play

*clutch problems continued

Weak or broaden pedal return springWeak of broken release sleeve springClutch linkage sticksClutch pedal sticksClutch release sleeve sticksClutch release fork bindsBad clutch release bearingLoose flywheel

* PROBLEMS OF GEAR BOXESSLIPPING OF GEARS AT HIGH / SECOND GEAR (3 SPEED):Gear box mounting bolts looseControl rods interfere with engine mounts or clutch release leverControl linkages doesnt work freelyGear does not engage fullyDamaged main shaft spigot bearingClutch gear bearing retainer broken or looseDirt between the Gear box housing and clutch housingMisalignment of transmissionWorn or broken synchronizer assemblyWeak springs in Gear box coverSLIPPING OF GEARS AT LOW / REVERSE GEAR:First / Reverse gear damagedImproperly mated splines at inside of first

* PROBLEMS OF GEAR BOXESSTICKING IN GEAR:Clutch not releasing completely.Low lubricant levelCorroded leversTight main drive gear spigot bearingDefective synchronizer sleeveFORWARD GEARS CLASH:Clutch not releasing completelyWeak or broken springs in synchronizer unitsWorn cone surfacesNOISE IN FORWARD GEARS:Insufficient or incorrect lubricantGear box misalignedMain drive gear or bearings worn or damagedCounter gear bearings worn or damagedSynchronizer worn or damaged

* PROBLEMS OF GEAR BOXESHARD SHIFTING:Improper clutch or adjustmentWorn or damaged shift linksIncorrect lubricantSynchronizer worn or brokenJUMPING OUT OF GEAR:Maladjusted, worn or loose shift linkageGear box loose or misalignedWorn spigot bearingExcessive end play in main drive gearBent main shaftWorn or broken synchronizerDetent notches wornWeak detent spring

*Gear box

* TROUBLES WITH FULLY SYNCHRONIZED GEAR BOXESNOISES:When diagnosing gear noise, note the gear position in which the noise occurs. Noise in all gear positions may be due to worn or damaged constant mesh gears or bearings.Noise in only one gear can usually be traced to the particular gear involved. Other causes of noise are:Misalignment due to loose mounting boltsClutch housing misalignmentDirt or metal chips in lubricantNot enough lube oil in gear boxImproper lubricant

* TROUBLES WITH FULLY SYNCHRONIZED GEAR BOXESNOISE IN ALL GEARS:Incorrect lubricant levelIncorrect type of lubricantCounter gear bearings worn or damagedCounter gear worn or damagedClutch gear bearing worn or damagedMain shaft bearing worn or damagedClutch gear worn or damagedTransmission misalignment or looseSynchronizers worn or brokenMain shaft gears worn or damaged

* TROUBLES WITH FULLY SYNCHRONIZED GEAR BOXESNOISE IN REVERSE:Reverse idler gear or shaft worn or damagedReverse sliding gear worn or damagedShift linkage out of adjustmentShift linkage bent or damagedShift linkage parts looseShift levers, shafts or forks wornHARD SHIFTING:Clutch pedal free travel incorrectClutch pedal parts worn or damagedIncorrect type of lubricantIncorrect level of lubricantItems 3 to 6 FROM PREVIOUS SECTION

* TROUBLES WITH FULLY SYNCHRONIZED GEAR BOXESJUMP OUT OF GEAR:Items 3 to 6 from REVERSE SectionShift cover loose or gasket damagedTransmission misaligned or looseSynchronizers worn or brokenClutch gear bearing retainer brokenClutch gear bearing worn or damagedClutch spigot bearing worn or damagedMain shaft worn or damagedMain shaft bearing worn or damaged

* PROPELLER SHAFT PROBLEMSPROBLEMS:NoiseVibrationsCAUSES:Incorrect universal joint anglesUnbalanced parts Loose worn out partsDamaged propeller shaft tubes Ex. Materials sticking under coating of tubes providing an unbalance

* PROPELLER SHAFT PROBLEMSCHECKS:Universal joint anglesPropeller shaft run-outRun-out near the joint should be less than 0.01 inRun-out near the shaft should be less than 0.015 inA bent propeller shaft results due to accident which should be replacedCheck shaft for unbalance (can be done in garage)Check looseness of all joints / parts.Check every 6000 miles that the four bolts holding the propeller shaft to the rear axle are tight.SERVICING:Propeller shaft and Universal joint servicing to be done periodicallyCleaning and greasing of joints to be done carefullyUniversal joints are fitted with grease nipple, grease every 3000 miles

* PROPELLER SHAFT PROBLEMSTROUBLE SHOOTING:

TROUBLECAUSEREMEDYVIBRATION AND NOISEBroken or worn bearing of universal joint spiderDistorted propeller shaftUnbalanced propeller shaftLoose propeller shaftReplace

ReplaceReplaceRe-tightenNOISE OCCURRING AT STANDING, START OR DURING COASTINGWorn or damaged universal jointWorn propeller shaft splines, due to lack of lubricationLoose propeller shaftLoose flanged yoke of universal jointReplace

Replace

Re-tightenRe-tighten

*Differential Unit

*

* REAR AXLE PROBLEMSNOISE WHEN PULLING STRAIGHT AHEAD:Not enough oilWrong grade of oilPoor quality oilExcessive backlash in crown wheel and pinionCrown wheel (Ring gear) and pinion wornPinion shaft bearings worn or looseExcessive end play for pinion shaftCrown wheel and pinion mis-aligned due to bent axle housing or distorted differential caseRing gear (Crown wheel) warpedDifferential bearings worn or looseRing gear rivets or screws looseNon matching ring gear and pinion

* REAR AXLE PROBLEMSKNOCKING AND CLICKING:Flat spot on ring gear or pinion tooth or tooth chipped or metal lodged in toothFlat spot on bearings.Loose axle shaft keysLoose splined shafts.Mismatched differential case havesINTERMITTENT NOISE:Warped Ring gear Loose ring gear rivets or screwsRing gear improperly installed on differential case due to dirt or burrs between the two.

* REAR AXLE PROBLEMSNOISE WHEN PULLING STRAIGHT AHEAD:Not enough oilWrong grade of oilPoor quality oilExcessive backlash in crown wheel and pinionCrown wheel (Ring gear) and pinion wornPinion shaft bearings worn or looseExcessive end play for pinion shaftCrown wheel and pinion mis-aligned due to bent axle housing or distorted differential caseRing gear (Crown wheel) warpedDifferential bearings worn or looseRing gear rivets or screws looseNon matching ring gear and pinion

* REAR AXLE PROBLEMSNOISE ON TURNS:Differential planet gears or sun gears chipped broken or scuffedPlanet gears (Differential) binding on pinion shaftDifferential gears (Planet or Sun) become loose due to worn bushing or shaftExcessive backlash between the differential gearsExcessive axle shaft end playContact surfaces between differential sun gears and case burred, scored or damagedVIBRATION:Rough rear wheel bearingUnbalanced or damaged propeller shaft Tire unbalance Worn universal joint in propeller shaft

* REAR AXLE PROBLEMSIncorrect drive line angleImproperly indexed propeller shaft at companion flangeCompanion flange run-out too much.OIL LEAK AT AXLE ENDS:Oil level too highOil too light or poor qualityAxle shaft oil seals wornAxle shaft bearing retainer looseCracked rear axle housingVent (if provided) clogged

*STEERING SYSTEM PROBLEMSHARD STEERING:Low or uneven tire pressureSteering gear or connections adjusted too tightInsufficient or incorrect lubricant usedExcessive castorSuspension arms bent or twistedFront spring saggedFrame bent or brokenSteering knuckle bentKing pin frozen in bushingExcessive misalignment of steering shaft couplingMisalignment of steering column and gear

*STEERING SYSTEM PROBLEMSEXCESSIVE PLAY OR LOOSENESS OF STEERING:Gear connections adjusted too loose or wornSteering knuckle bushing wornFront wheel bearing improperly adjusted or wornWorn ball jointsWorn or loose steering shaft bearingsWorn control arm bushingsSteering wheel loose on shaftLoose linkagesExcessive backlashWorn intermediate rod or tie-rod sockets

*STEERING SYSTEM PROBLEMSPOOR RETURNABILITY:Front end need lubricationToo tight adjustment of steering gearFront end alignment incorrectMis-alignment of steering gear to column

RATTLE OR CHUCKLE IN STEERING GEAR:Insufficient or incorrect lubricantExcessive back-lashWorn or loose shaft bearingsPitman arm loose on shaft

*STEERING SYSTEM PROBLEMSVEHICLE PULLS TO ONE SIDE:Low or uneven tire pressureIncorrect or uneven castor or camberImproperly adjusted wheel bearingsUneven front height of vehicleIncorrect toe-inOil or brake fluid in liningsUnevenly adjusted brakesFrame bent or brokenRear wheels not tracking front wheelsLoose U-bolts or sheared centre bolt or rear springsBroken or weak rear springs

*DRUM BRAKE PROBLEMSONE BRAKE DRAGS:Brake hydraulic line restrictedImproperly adjusted or worn wheel bearingsDistorted or improperly adjusted brake shoeFaulty retracting springDrum out of roundLoose back plateFaulty wheel cylinderDirty brake fluidAir in hydraulic systemInsufficient shoe to back plate lubrication

*DRUM BRAKE PROBLEMSALL BRAKES DRAG:Mechanical resistance at pedal or shoes, damaged linkagesHydraulic line restrictedDistorted or improperly adjusted brake shoesDirty brake fluidFaulty master cylinderSticking booster control valveHARD PEDAL:REASONS 1,2 AND 3 AS ABOVELining glazed or wornOil and grease in liningSPONGY PEDAL:Leaks or insufficient fluidAir in hydraulic system

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMLONG PEDAL TRAVEL OR PEDAL GOES UP TO THE FLOOR:

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Excessive clearance between linings and drumAdjust the brakes2Weak hoseReplace with new3Leaking wheel cylinderService with repair kit4Leaking master cylinderService with repair kit5Leaking stop light switchReplace6Air in hydraulic systemBleed the system7Blocked master cylinder cap-end hole Clean and replace8Low fluid level in master cylinderFill and bleed9Wear of brake pedal bushreplace

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMSPONGY PEDAL:

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Air in the hydraulic systemBleed2Improper lining, excessive clearance between lining and shoeReline3Distorted shoesReplace4Bell mouthed, worn out, weak or cracked drumsReplace the drum5Clogged master cylinder, filler cap vent holeClean or replace and bleed6Weak hoseReplace7Weak master cylinder push rod and clevisCheck and strengthen master cylinder mounting8Bent master cylinder push rod and clevisReplace push rod and clevis9Un-bedded linings ( not in full contact)Bed linings

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMBRAKES PULLING (VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE SIDE):< Contd. On next slide>

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Uneven adjustment of brakesAdjust all the brakes evenly2Tires improperly inflatedInflate to recommended pressure3Tire tread unevenly worn on either side or different types of treadsReplace with same type of tread all round4Grease or fluid soaked lining on the brake opposite to the direction of pullingReplace the lining after remedying the cause of grease or fluid leak5Linings of different grades on either side of brakeReplace with recommended grade of linings all round6Un-bedded liningsBed linings

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM< Contd. On next slide>

S no.CAUSESREMEDY7Shoes wrongly fittedInstall leading and trailing shoes correctly8Rivets loose in liningRivet properly9Wheel cylinder piston seized Service or replace wheel cylinder10Wheel cylinder diameter different in opposite sideReplace with correct cylinder11Clogged or restriction in hydraulic hose or pipeClean and replace pipelines12Weak or broken shoe return springsCheck and replace weak open coiled and cracked springs13Drums oval or eccentricTrue up or replace

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

S no.CAUSESREMEDY14Loose back plate mounting bolts, loose shoe abutment or adjuster housing Tighten back plate mounting bolts and adjuster housing mountings. If abutment is loose, replace back plate.15Improper steering geometryReset16Loose or worn tie rod endTighten or replace 17Loose kingpin and bushesReplace as a set18Loose wheel bearing, steering or U- clamp nutsAdjust or tighten19Weak shock absorbersReplace

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMBRAKE FADE:FADE is the temporary reduction of brake effectiveness resulting from heat

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Incorrect grade of liningReplace with proper grade2Distorted shoeReplace3Overloaded vehicleReduce the load4Dragging brakesAdjust or rectify the problem5Thin drumsReplace6Contaminated fluidChange the fluid

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMHARD PEDAL, POOR BRAKING:

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Incorrect brake adjustment Adjust properly2Incorrect lining Replace3Grease or oil soaked liningReplace lining4Un-bedded liningBed lining properly5Glazed liningSand paper the lining surface6Pedal binding on the shaftLubricate and recondition7Seized master cylinder or wheel cylinder pistonService with kit8Wrongly fitted shoesInstall leading and trailing shoes correctly9Bell mouthed, barrel shaped or polished drumReplace or re-bore the drum

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMREDUCED PEDAL TRAVEL:

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Master cylinder recuperating hole blockedService the master cylinder 2Swollen cup seal in master cylinderFlush the system and replace all rubber pads3Weak shoe retracting springsReplace the springs4Wheel cylinder piston stickyService and replace internal parts5Lining swellingReplace lining

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMREAR BRAKE DRAG:JUDDER IN PEDAL

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Swollen ovality of drumsTrue the drums2Loose drum of hubTighten3Worn or loose bearingReplace or re-adjust4Rusty drumsDe-rust or replace

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Maladjustment Adjust2Parking brake cable seizedLubricate and adjust

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMBRAKES BINDING:< Contd. On next slide>

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Pedal does not return fullyLubricate or recondition pedal shaft and brushes2No clearance between push rod and master cylinder pistonAdjust brake pedal free play 3Improperly adjusted service brake or hand brakeCheck and adjust4Recuperating and feed port clogged in master cylinderService master cylinder5Swollen sealsFlush the system and replace all rubber pads6Seized wheel cylinder pistonsService and replace wheel cylinder

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMSNAPPING NOISE IN FRONT END:

S no.CAUSESREMEDY7Improper brake fluid Replace8Weak or broken shoe return springsReplace9Blocked filler cap vent holeClean and replace

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Deep groves in back plate shoe padsReplace back plate2Lack of lubrication in moving partsLubricate all moving parts on back plate with high melting point graphite grease3Loose drum or back plateTighten4Loose or worn out front end partsTighten or replace defective parts

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMONE WHEEL DRAG:

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Weak or broken retracting springsReplace the springs2Clearance between the shoe and drum too small in a wheelAdjust3Loose wheel bearingsAdjust4Wheel cylinder cup seals swollen and piston seizedService with kit5Excessive ovality of drumTrue the drum6Obstructed hydraulic lineClear and flush7Distorted shoesReplace the shoes8Incorrect grade of liningReplace with proper lining

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMBRAKE SQUEAL:< Contd. On next slide>

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Back plate bend or shoe slightly twistedReplace parts2Metallic parts or dust embedded in lining Sandpaper the lining and drums and remove metal particles if any or replace the lining and drum if necessary3Loose rivets or lining not held evenly against shoe rim ( gap between lining and shoe rim)Reline shoes properly4Drums not true, weak or distortedTrue up or replace drums5Incorrect grade of liningReplace lining with recommended lining

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

S no.CAUSESREMEDY6Shoes scraping on back-plate shoe padsLubricate shoe pads with high melting point graphite grease7Weak or broken hold down springsReplace defective parts8Loose wheel bearingAdjust bearings9Loose back-plate, or wheel cylinderTighten10Over adjusted steady postAdjust properly11Glazed liningSurface linings with sand paper12Highly polished drumSkim drum

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMTHUMPING NOISE WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED:

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Loose back-plate, drums or axle U bolts Tighten2Grabbing liningsReplace with recommended grade of lining3Shoe retracting sprigs unequal, weakReplace springs4Uneven brake drum inner diameterSkim the drums or replace

*TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEMGRINDING NOISE:

S no.CAUSESREMEDY1Shoe rim fouling with the drumCheck shoe retracting springs for correct fit2Weak shoe hold down springs or bent pinReplace parts3Bent shoe webRemove and replace4Foreign material in liningRemove and replace lining5Worn out or broken liningReplace with lining kit.Skim or replace drum if scored6Rough drum surfaceSkim drums7Improper adjustment of steady postAdjust properly

**