Top Banner

of 21

Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

Apr 03, 2018

Download

Documents

Tony Wilson
Welcome message from author
This document is posted to help you gain knowledge. Please leave a comment to let me know what you think about it! Share it to your friends and learn new things together.
Transcript
  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    1/21

    18

    2

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE

    KAISERSLAUTERN

    K

    aiserslautern began with a pre-dawn alarm, nine and a half hours

    before kick-off in Australias first World Cup finals match for32 years. Even this early, some of the fans were quite overcome, the

    corridors filled with a common refrain.

    This is the day Ive been waiting for all my life, I heard as I left

    room 503. I felt like shadow boxing so I did. Another Aussie fan

    walked out and caught me. She waved. We were all excited.

    Inside the lift, optimism was tempered by a sense of gravitas. This is

    it, said a man wearing a green novelty football pitch on his head. He

    was speaking to a friend also wearing a green novelty football pitch on

    his head. Good luck, the friend said, and they fell into a hug. Good

    luck, I offered. Given wed never met before we went for handshakes

    rather than the fully-blown embrace. Stay strong, first pitch-head

    intoned earnestly. We can do it. Nine hours to kick-off.

    Others in the breakfast room had been following the Socceroos

    longer than I had. The lines on their faces and the credibility-enhanced

    old-school shirts on their backs proved that much. But since Iran1997, the Socceroos qualification for the World Cup finals had been

    my number one sporting obsession. Id travelled to Uruguay and

    Sydney. Id sat through horribly unbalanced Oceania group games.

    Id written articles for The Age, denouncing the briefly-won full spot

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    2/21

    19

    for the Oceania confederation and arguing for our chance to fight it

    out as part of Asia. And then FIFA had whipped the spot away again

    and Id felt sick. No, Oceania didnt deserve that spot, but nothing

    was as unjust as the one-off do-or-die fifth place in South America

    maelstrom. But wed emerged out of it, victorious in the face of a

    category five Los Celestes cyclone, and now it was THE DAY. The day

    Id dreamed about. In my dreams, I had skipped the mundane details

    like breakfast. Had it been part of my fantasy, I certainly wouldnt

    have guessed the pre-dawn repast would be called frhstck.After a frhstck not cooked by Frank Farina, we hit the streets as a

    golden stream, hundreds strong, flowing, singing, surging towards the

    local Frankfurt S-Bahn station.

    On the way, we painted footpaths and escalators golden, or in my

    case a fairly alarming shade of daffodil. I was wearing a hideous,

    skin-tight, polyester yellow, American football-style shirt, with the

    words Vons Inn, 917 East River Road, Grand Island flowing across

    the chest in lurid green. Even though I had an official Socceroo jerseyback in my case, I felt compelled to go with this hideously yellow

    advertisement for Von for the simple reason that Id picked it up in a

    second-hand shop on the afternoon of the Uruguay game. Hideously

    Yellow Von had successfully dragged me through the trauma of the

    penalty shootout that night, so it was getting another start today.

    Rationally, Im willing to concede that superstitions are stupid, that

    what I do has no impact on what people who really matter do. My

    choice of shirt, even if it were made known to Jason Culina, will not

    make him run faster. My rabid fear of putting the Mozz on the boys

    when predicting good results is, of course, ridiculously arrogant, in

    that it assumes that by merely speaking, I can affect such vagaries as

    Craig Moores judgement on a slide tackle. Still, I cant help it. In my

    ultimate powerlessness, I want to trick myself into feeling I can at least

    do something. And believe me, I do a good job. Most of the time, I can

    pretend that Im actually making a distance. Its sort of pathetic, butgiven Im rational on important things such as seatbelts in cars and

    wearing sunscreen, I think I should be allowed the odd superstitious

    indulgence.

    Across the carriages, other fans had their own Hideously Yellow

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    3/21

    20

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    Von equivalents, no doubt having convinced themselves, as I had,

    that they can make a difference. Thomas Zammit was also wearing

    his exact November outfitblue jeans and two Aussie tops. The only

    problem was the temperature in Sydney had been mid-teens, whereas

    the forecast for Kasierslautern was 35 degrees. Even at this time of

    the morning, I could see the signs of overheating shining across Toms

    forehead.

    I dont care, Tom shrugged stoically. I dont mind being hot. Im

    not taking off either layer. What made this all the more impressivewas that in terms of absorbing hits for the team, Tom had already

    done his bit. The previous day, in Frankfurts old city, the very same

    official Socceroos shirt he was now wearing had been shat on from

    above by one of Frankfurts greediest birds, a moment that had Rita

    shrieking, Its good luck, its good luck! It means were going to win!

    Tom had been less sure, believing that bird shit equals good luck was

    nothing more than positive spin dreamed up by some Pollyanna-type

    unable to accept the raw stinking truth about good things being goodthings, and bird shit being bird shit. But sitting on the Aussie Express

    on the way to Kaiserslautern, he was pulling his own superstitious

    weight. Not only was he enduring a stupidly hot continuity of outfit,

    he also had Garfield.

    My Nonno Charlie gave it to me at the airport. Hes had major life-

    saving operations, and always keeps Garfield at his bedside. Its got

    him through a few tough times. When I play a soccer game, he gets

    me to touch it before the start of the game. So when he was saying

    goodbye at the airport, he handed over Garfield.

    Rufus from Sydney was doing his superstition by subtraction. He

    was notwearing a brown corduroy hat.

    I wore it to the Confederations Cup, he said. And we lost both

    games. So Ive left it back in the hotel room.

    The search for assistance was all around us. We met an inflatable

    rock wallaby named Skippy, and a lucky Snoopy who was surprisinglynot called Snoopy, but Spike. As we rattled across the Rhine at Mainz,

    I met the red-bearded Dawson brothers from Sydney, who were

    quickly dubbed the Groundskeepers Willie, after the red-bearded

    cartoon character on The Simpsons. Mark Dawson, who if anything,

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    4/21

    21

    was slightly more Groundskeeper Willie-ish than his older brother

    Peter, produced a crocodile tooth from around his neck.

    Ive worn this for every game Ive seen Australia play and win. From

    Uruguay last year, going back to Argentina in the World Youth Cup. I

    got it in New Guinea when I was nine. A mate of the old mans carved

    it for me. I bite on the thing when the boys are taking a kick.

    Groundskeeper Willie-Mark clamped down on it now and, with

    a mouthful of tooth, introduced me to his brother, Groundskeeper

    Willie-Peter. They both had defence force backgrounds, andGroundskeeper Willie-Peter had taken a serious physical risk in

    deciding to come. He had suffered some vascular difficulties over the

    past year and, with painful varicose veins in his legs, he had been

    instructed by his doctor to stay home. Groundskeeper Willie-Mark

    explained that it was never really an option.

    Weve been promising ourselves since last time they made it that

    wed go next time. I was 12 in 1974. Its justification. Justification. It

    means were here with the rest of the world. Were not pretending likewe were at the Rugby World Cup, were not pretending like we were

    at the Olympics. Anyone can win at tiddly-winks. This is actually a

    game that meansshitto people. Everywhere on the planet this means

    something.

    His blue eyes sparkled with anticipation. And today, were going to

    win.

    ***

    A Japanese television crew wobbled into our carriage and asked us

    the question, What is football? I weighed my answer, wondering

    if I should offer some chin-stroking pontification on the Australian

    politics of the word football - how four codes were squabbling over it

    as though embroiled in a neighbour-to-neighbour fence dispute.

    But theres a time and a place for that debate and its surely not whenyoure an hour from a World Cup venue, on a train full of round-ball

    fans. The Japanese interviewer had felt the air, and wanted something

    transcendent. He gazed at us, urging one of us to pull out something

    special, like the existentialist Frenchman from Algeria, Albert Camus

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    5/21

    22

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    much-quoted line: In football, everything is complicated by the

    presence of the opposite side; or Nick Hornbys lovely quote in Fever

    Pitch on fandom as a means of escaping real life: Who wants to be

    stuck with who they are all the time?

    I genuinely think I was on the verge of something a memorable,

    pithy aphorism that traversed notions of nationalism and the idea of

    football as a sort of sporting Esperanto when suddenly the on-board

    sound system kicked in. Living Next Door to Alice was being played

    at serious volume. I was going to have to work hard to make the sixoclock news in Tokyo.

    Football is the best international representation of sport

    Alice! Alice! Who the fuck is Alice?

    And its never better than um than at the World Cup

    I was gone. All I could think was that someone, somewhere had

    to get used to not living next door to Alice. Rita buttered up well,

    describing football as her heritage, her reason for getting out of bed in

    the impossibly early morning, and then did us all the favour of askingKenji, the Japanese cameraman, what football meant to him.

    I love football because football is very similar to life, Kenji said.

    Because just like life, you have to take care about the very short-term

    future, and then that passes to the next future, and then the future

    after that.

    The whole cabin nodded, processing a sentence that had wafted

    across us like a Stephen Hawking thesis. Eventually, I asked Kenji

    whether he thought there were differences between the way the

    Japanese and the Australians played football.

    The Japanese think too much. Australia is much more playing with

    feeling, with heart.

    Kenji had barely finished his sentence before a conga line of Aussies

    emerged through the glass door of the carriage. Sushi, sushi, sushi

    train sushi train, sushi train, they sang as they snaked joyfully past

    our cabin. Maybe Kenji was right. From the look of them, they wereliving for the short-term, with no notion of incremental successive

    futures. They were just being the best sushi train they could be.

    ***

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    6/21

    23

    A day that is a contender for best of life wants to have a pretty good

    middle section, and Kaiserslautern started delivering right from the

    first step off the train. We disembarked as a mob into a mob, and

    although mobs sometimes get a bad rap, this one was friendly, and

    singing in the way that only mobs can. Apart from a brief hiatus in the

    train cabins, we had been singing, chanting, and howling pretty much

    since we left the hotel. We werent about to stop now.

    Aus-sie Aus-sie Aus-sie Aus-sie, we boomed in the acousticallyimpressive echo-chamber of the station platform. It was pointedly

    not the Aussie Aussie Aussie, a chant that would be joyously absent

    from the supporters song book for practically the entire World Cup.

    Instead, it was an adaptation of the old Ol Ol Ol Ol. Yes

    it was simple, and yes it was derivative, but it had notes, and didnt

    require some Aussie Aussie Aussie wanker to mount a rostrum, and

    demand noise in the form of grunted ois. Even more excitingly, there

    was some variety on the song front, and as we snaked our way fromthe station to the town centre pedestrian zone, the golden throng

    veered from Waltzing Matilda to Skippy to Elton Johns Crocodile

    Rock morphed into Aus-stray-lee-aaaaa, la-la-la-la-la-la-laaaa. It

    seemed we were standing at the precipice of a new, more musical

    barracking era.

    The Aussie choir had its ugly moments too. A group of supporters

    grabbed hold of the inflammatory English 10 German Bombers song,

    which England coach Sven Gran Eriksson personally requested be

    ditched for the tournament, and adapted it to Three kamikazes in the

    sky.

    The tune is Shell Be Coming round the Mountain and in verse one,

    we learn at considerable length that there were three kamikazes in

    the sky. Then the Royal Aussie Air Force arrives to shoot one down,

    so that there are two kamikazes in the sky. Then it drops to one

    kamikaze, so you can see its just like 10 Green Bottles but historicallyand racially provocative. The same group of Aussie yobs also served

    up the Id rather be a convict than a Japagain an English rip-off,

    but one that lacked for something given the Japanese fans were quietly

    going about their business, and hadnt called us convicts to begin with.

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    7/21

    24

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    But these were some of the few hiccups for what was generally a

    happy, enthusiastic, multitudinous, witty choir. It was the tournament

    where the football fans taught the newcomers to sing. The reality is

    that singing is not a big part of Australian sport. In cricket, it may

    be that in the games gentlemanly traditions, singing was seen as

    boisterous, rowdy behaviour that simply wasnt cricket. The Barmy

    Army are in the process of turning that on its head. In Aussie Rules

    footy, its almost completely absentmaybe because the grounds are

    bigger, and so dont lend themselves to the intimate act of singing.Maybe its because integrating two sets of fans dissolves potential

    choirs. Maybe its because the thrill-a-minute, wham-bam action of

    Aussie Rules doesnt sit well with singing, which flourishes in a lull.

    As for rugby, it does have singing the Welsh, Scots and English

    are particularly strong of voice but it tends to be old standards

    sung boisterously at the start of games, like Land of Our Fathers or

    Scotland the Brave.

    Football is the code where singing thrives before, after and duringgames, and where the song book is vast and ever-changing. Its not, as

    many heathens claim, because the game is boring and theres nothing

    else to do. Its more that between the intense but often sporadic

    climactic highs and cathartic lowsthere is down time. Time to

    absorb the rhythm of the game. Time to study the patterns the players

    make in position or with the ball as they strive for advantage. Time to

    fear. Time to fret. And certainly, time to sing.

    Kaiserslautern was easy to love. For starters, it is a great word to say

    the locals put the accent on the slough part of the word, (possibly

    to deflect attention from the Kaiser bit, possibly for the simple love

    of the slough). With a centrally located, beautifully cobbled Old City

    (Altstadt) within, and a population of 100,000 it was small enough to

    be engulfed by the visiting fans.

    Even by 11am, the main pedestrian street was so packed that

    anything quicker than an amble was impossible. And so we ambled,snapping photos of the svelte Japanese woman in the spectacular

    flowing blue-and-white kimono, and the not so svelte Australian man

    with the stuffed bra and the Dame Edna wig. On either side of the

    street, the locals had set up a long row of white tents and the smell of

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    8/21

    25

    pork and the mist of barbecue betrayed the culinary emphasis of the

    day. We were in south-west Germany in the Bundesland of Rhineland-

    Pfalz, and never mind that the French border was less than an hours

    drive away. In Kaiserslautern, even though the town was named after

    a Roman Emperor, this day the sausage was king.

    The beer was flowing too, but despite a sense of elation and a day

    that was already nudging 30 degrees, I resolved to wait a few hours.

    Basically, I didnt trust myself. The further we traipsed down the

    pedestrian mall, the better the party seemed to be, and I was worriedthat with four hours to go until kick-off, early drinking might lead

    to later drinking which could possibly jeopardise a lasting memory

    of the game, or even worse, cause a frantic mid-match toilet stop.

    And for anyone who has read Roddy Doyles brilliant sporting essay

    on Irelands passage through the 1990 World Cup, The Beautiful

    Republic (contained in My Favourite Year, published by Phoenix,

    edited by Nick Hornby) it contains a great sporting truth:

    Wed discovered this years ago. When one of us went to the toilet,a goal was scored; not always, but it was frightening how often it

    happened.

    In 1990, with his head against the tiles of a Dublin pub, Roddy

    Doyle scores the equaliser for Ireland against England, even if the

    history books say it was former Everton left-winger Kevin Sheedy (no,

    not the former Richmond back-pocket-plumber) who scored Irelands

    first ever goal in a World Cup finals. Given I was already doing my

    omen work with Hideously Yellow Von, I wanted to see the goals,

    enjoy the glorious agony of the full 90 minutes.

    One of the drawbacks of not drinking, however, is that its much

    more annoying when people throw beer on your head, and that

    was very much the case down at the Fritz-Walter-Stammtisch, an

    improvised bar and outdoor music venue that had been set up in front

    of the oldest church in Kaiserslautern, a patch the Aussies dubbed

    Burger King. This was the epicentre of the pre-match party, visiblefrom three blocks away as a mosh pit of Australiana, and a place

    where you could catch up with hits from home, such as Hunters

    and Collectors Holy Grail, Slim Dustys Pub with no Beer and The

    Choirboys Run to Paradise. The boys (and it was mainly boys in the

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    9/21

    26

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    mosh pits hot pumping heart) were celebrating the high notes with

    some fairly erratic cup work.

    ***

    Theres something about football that lends itself to externalised

    optimism. In the flush of a big tournament, everyone will say that their

    team is going to winunless its playing Brazil, in which case its at

    least going to draw.Its because goals are so difficult to score, which means that the gap

    between two teams of vastly different abilities, at least in the optimistic

    mind, can still be closed down. The first round game between Sweden

    and Trinidad and Tobago was a perfect case in point. The Swedes were

    clearly superior, possibly by as many as three or four goals, and yet

    with the Trinidadian keeper Shaka Hislop strung across the goal on a

    string of elastic, a 10-0-0 formation, and Swedens Zlatan Ibramovic

    spraying his shots, 0-0 became a tournament-rattling reality. For theWorld Cup minnows, it was a miracle to justify miraculous hope not

    just for T & T, but for all of us.

    I interviewed hundreds of people in Germany, and the only person

    I spoke to at the entire World Cup who predicted a loss for the team

    he was supporting, was me. Its not that I wasnt barracking with all

    my heart for the Socceroos. Its just that I have a problem with the

    Mozz. I fear it, worship it, loathe it, am controlled by it. For those

    unfamiliar with the Mozz, think of it as something akin to The Force

    in the Star Wars movies. Invisible, omniscient, vindictive, vigilant.

    Some incorrectly refer to it as the Mocca (which just makes the

    Mozz angrier), others as Murphys or Sods law. What the Mozz does

    is inhabit the ether of the entire universe (try to stay with the science

    here) wafting around, waiting for the faintest murmur of expressed

    opinion. Then It will act, swooping down, striking hard, possessing

    any relevant animal, vegetable or mineral, and transforming the resultto the oppositeusually one that is profoundly shit.

    Here is a list of notable occasions where the unwary have been

    struck down by the Mozz over the course of the last century (from

    the Mozz bible, I Wish I Hadnt Said That, Christopher Cerf and

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    10/21

    27

    Victor Navasky, Harper Collins Publishers, 2000). Ive listed the top

    three, in 3-2-1 order.

    Three votes: I believe it is peace for our time go home and get

    a nice, quiet sleep.Neville Chamberlain, Prime Minister of Great

    Britain, September 30, 1938, after friendly discussions with the

    German Chancellor, A. Hitler.

    Two votes: One hundred years from now it is very likely that of

    (Mark) Twains works The Jumping Frogalone will be remembered.

    Harry Thurston Peck, editor of The Bookman, January 1901.

    One vote: The singer will have to go. Eric Eastern, new manager

    of The Rolling Stones, in a remark to partner Andrew Oldham,

    assessing Mick Jaggers value to the group, c1963.

    While the Mozz doesnt mind interfering in such affairs as these, for

    recreation it likes nothing more to kick back on some intergalactic

    couch and mess with sports fans. So it was that when I was invited

    onto a panel called World Cup Corner for the FairfaxDigital online

    forum, I played it safe with the Mozz, and tipped a 1-0 loss to Japan.My co-hosts Ian Syson and Jason Steger both predicted narrow

    victories for the Socceroos, but I was happy taking on the Mozz

    placatory role. Doing my bit for Guus and country.

    The problem though was explaining all this to Socceroos fans in

    Kaiserslautern when they asked me whether I thought the boys could

    win. With the songs and the throngs, with the most electrifying pre-

    game atmosphere Id ever been a part of, the temptation was to throw

    the Mozz away, to let my guard down and scream, Aussies 2-0! But I

    had to be strong. The next future, Kenjis next future, our next future,

    might be depending on me.

    Eve approached with the apple just after wed passed through

    security. She came in the form of Steve and Nick from Sydney.

    Earlier, Id seen them prevail 6-4 in a classic game of table football

    (or foosball) against two Japanese opponents, thanks to what they

    described as some high pressure attacking and defensive efforts.Theyd claimed the win as an omen, and said the ratio would be

    maintained for the real thing in an hours time.

    So thats either 3-2 or 12-8 to the Socceroos, Nick said, without

    cracking a smile. What about you, Tony? Whats your prediction for

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    11/21

    28

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    the game?

    Of the thousands of kilometres wed covered to this point, it was

    clear the last one would be one of the toughest. The stadium was

    on top of Betzenberg Mountain, and we were just beginning what

    appeared to be a lengthy ascent. A cyclone fence ran at either edge of

    a concrete stairway, and beyond that, an elm and poplar forest did its

    best to provide some much needed shade. For me though, the Mozz

    lurked behind every tree.

    I actually reckon 1-0 to Japan.What? Nick, who was a few steps ahead, stopped in his tracks.

    Steve stared at me accusingly, as if hed just seen me smack someone

    elses kid.

    You dont think well win? His eyes bulged still further. Steve

    honestly couldnt believe what he was hearing. My choice of the 18th-

    ranked team (Japan) to beat the 42nd (us) was about to lead to an

    ugly dispute.

    You dont think well even draw? Nick added, riding the lastsyllable in disbelief.

    The apple was so red and shiny. How crisp and refreshing it would

    be in this stifling heat. Well, I must admit I did make that prediction

    a few weeks ago, I said, quietly, steering a dangerous path. And Ive

    since read that (champion Japanese midfielder) Hide Nakata reckons

    the Japanese are playing without heart

    So you do reckon well win then? Nick said. I looked around,

    carefully. The Mozz ran strongly in me. Id already sorted out the

    1997 decider against Iran (were playing too well to lose, we should

    be five up) and two US Presidential elections (the US Supreme Court

    must force a recount). This was dangerous territory. I lowered my

    voice.

    You know I reckon we probably will win it, I said. Hideously

    Yellow Von was saturated from the extended climb. The Fritz-Walter-

    Stadion was the playing field of the gods.Commit to a score, Nick ordered. Commit to a winning Aussie

    scoreline.

    Okay. Australia 2-1, I offered, falling into line with the dozens of

    others Id interviewed who predicted a similar scoreline. Cahill and

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    12/21

    29

    Viduka to score.

    Thats better, Steve said in a headmasters tone. He offered me his

    hand. Dont worry, mate. Its destiny. Its all going to work out.

    I shook his hand, and stared at the concrete monolith before us.

    The roof was being held up by diagonal red beams. Below, we were

    surrounded by lush, green forest. Steve and Nick said their goodbyes

    and moved forward to scan their tickets. In seconds, they were inside,

    celebrating the moment with raised arms. Along the turnstiles, others

    were doing the same. I was at a sporting event where the very fact ofentry was being celebrated like a 20-metre, curling wonder strike. I

    watched Steve and Nick disappear into the crowd and contemplated

    what had just happened to me. After weeks of resisting, Id done it. Id

    tipped the Socceroos.

    Forgive me, Mozz, for I know not what I do.

    ***

    Number one, Mark Schwarzer.

    Yeeeeeeees!

    Number two, Lucas Neill.

    Yeeeeeees!

    Number three, Craig Moore.

    Yeeeeeees!

    I was holding back just slightly on my Yeeeeeeeses trying to leave

    some crescendo room for when my favourite player was announced.

    Viduka, Kewell, Grellaall great, but not my adopted son.

    Number 14, Scott Chipperfield.

    Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesssssss!

    Tam took a photo of me as I leaned back and gave it my all.

    How could anyone not love Chipper? The Socceroos didnt have a

    Zidane-type talent, but at least in Chipper, we had a Zidane-type

    bald spot. I loved the fact the scouts missed him until late. I lovedthat he races dish-lickers. I loved the way that he constantly uses the

    expression beers with mates. And I loved that he was driving buses in

    Wollongong at 23 and now, seven years later, was about to walk out in

    a starting XI at the World Cup.

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    13/21

    30

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    My favourite Scott Chipperfield quote appears in Andy Harpers

    profile of the squad, The Socceroos: Voodoo to Destiny:

    I used to drive the bus from Stanwell Park into Wollongong every

    day. It was a beautiful drive down the coast road from Stanwell Park.

    Id meet a lot of people and a lot of them were Wollongong fans

    and they would want to talk soccer on the bus. I worked there right

    up until I came to Europe. I am thinking about going back to it. I

    certainly wouldnt mind. It was pretty relaxing and you meet a lot of

    people.I gave another cheer for Chipper, and didnt mind when it coincided

    with the announcing of John Aloisi, another favourite.

    Heres to the bus driver, bus driver, bus driver.

    Heres to the bus driver, bus driver man.

    ***

    Our anthem sounded deafening, while the Japanese anthem soundedlike the theme from Brokeback Mountain. Apparently, it began life

    as a 31-syllable poem or waka, and the funereal melody was added

    by a composer called Hayashi Hiromori in the latter half of the 19th

    century. In the patriotic fervour of the moment I preferred ours,

    although still believe that the plodding rhythm and girty words leave

    Advance Australia Fair very vulnerable in any serious anthem-off.

    The Egyptian referee blew his whistle and suddenly it was no longer

    about newspaper pundits or earnest men sitting around television

    panels. It was finally about the players, the substitutes, the coaches

    and, given it was now 38 degrees, the water boys. We had our role

    too. In the aftermath of Sydney, Mark Viduka had talked about the

    Aussie fans as a collective 12th man. Again today, we were delivering

    passionately and yellow-ly. In the first minutes, the blaze of yellow

    rose and fell with the ebb and flow of the game, and also with the

    steady succession of Stand Up for the Socceroos chants descendingfrom the rafters. Our seats were near the front of the first tier, just to

    the right of the goal Australia was attacking. At five minutes, directly

    below us, Viduka fired the teams opening shots first with his right

    foot, and then on the reboundagain with his left.

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    14/21

    31

    Ooooooooooo, we ooo-ed boisterously, applauding the Aussie

    skipper. Corner to us. Go Bresh! Around us, noise billowed from a

    crowd that was blooming like a field of canola.

    Yeeeeeeeesss! we screamed again, thinking that the Bresciano corner

    kick had found the head of Viduka, but suddenly the goalkeeper was

    there too and he could use his hands. We groaned as he punched the

    ball away.

    The ball pinged around the park, and such is the lot of the terrified

    fan, almost no section of the pitch offered any respite. At our attackingend, we suffered the possibility of a golden moment tempered by the

    disappointment of each opportunity unravelling. At their attacking

    end, we endured the panic of imminent disaster, tempered by relief

    when disaster was averted. The only time to relax was when the ball

    was out of play on the halfway line being retrieved for the throw. And

    even then, only when it was our throw.

    To fans of other football codes, the ones who accuse soccer of being

    too low-scoring and therefore boring, the only way to discover thebeautiful game is by abandoning neutrality. Take the plunge. Pick a

    team. Make the fans decision to pin a healthy slice of your temporary

    happiness to the fortunes of that team. Suddenly youll discover why

    football is the most blissfully stressful of all games to watch. Become

    a barracker and, in an instant, the ridiculous skill of curving a ball

    35 metres onto a teammates moving forehead wont just be a matter

    of abstract beauty, a sporting curiosity to hang on the wall; it will be

    of living importance to the chances of your team. To be a fan is to

    experience the explosions of joy and the daggers of disappointment a

    single goal can bring, and in all the time and space between, there is

    the fear. The fear of what might happen. The knowledge that in such a

    low-scoring game, every act is important.

    I thought back to what Kenji had said on the train. Watching

    football is indeed about mapping futures, moving from one to the

    next. Even an inexperienced football fan will quickly start spottingpatterns. That team goes wide to the wings, a player is released near

    the corner flag, the ball is crossed to the strikers, and hopefully, it

    connects sweetly with a foot or head. But the magic of the game is

    that the predictable pattern is sometimes tossed aside by a burst of

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    15/21

    32

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    speed, or a brilliant pass or a step-over dribble, and suddenly the brain

    is working again, casting aside the predictable future outcome and

    re-evaluating for the next most likely event, given the surprise change

    of circumstances. Its a continual guessing game, and when theres

    emotional investment in the outcome, its continually stressful.

    At the 20-minute mark of the first half it was still 0-0. Tam felt sick.

    I was exhausted, unable to hit the high note for the second Waltzing in

    Waltzing Matilda. Heaven knows how many futures we still had to go.

    ***

    How on earth had it happened? Nakamura, with his red Dorothy

    slippers, had only been looking to cross, lobbing the ball gently into

    the penalty area, hoping for a friendly head or boot, but somehow,

    horribly, before you could blink, Schwarzer was lying on the ground

    and the ball was in the back of the net.

    The goal happened at the other end, so I saw it through binoculars.It was as though the tragedy unfolded in slow motion. The achingly

    slow parabola of ball in flight. A mess of bodies in front of goal. The

    dawning realisation that the ball was still in flight and that there was

    nothing between it and the net. The desperate shout of Noooo! and

    a jerking attempt to find the referee in my glasses. The silence of our

    crowd, and the distant roar of somebody elses crowd. The referee

    pointing towards the centre. The sound of a seat being kicked. Come

    on ref! COME ON REF!

    The goal played and replayed on the big screen. Then Goleo IV, the

    World Cup lion mascot arrived in animated form to rub our noses in

    it. GOOOOAL! he roared. Piss off Goleo IV. I was still swearing at

    cartoon characters when Harry hit the crossbar, directly below. Our

    clapping had an air of desperation.

    Stand up for the Socceroos. A few hardy fans were trying to

    lift the rest of us with Pet Shop Boys tunes. I stood up, even thoughI didnt feel like it. I felt like complaining about the referee, sharing

    wisdom harnessed from a red bucket seat at 150 metres.

    The ref-er-ees a wan-ker! The ref-er-ees a wan-ker!

    It clearly wasnt just me who felt that way. Guus Hiddink was being

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    16/21

    33

    tackled by the fourth official to stop him plying some justice Clint-

    Eastwood style against officials further up the chain of command.

    You know what? I think it might have been Schwarzers error, some

    renegade said as the goal was replayed again. Im not sure thats a

    foul. Schwarzer kind of runs into him.

    He was a better man than me. I wasnt in the mood for objective

    analysis and neither was Tam, whose precious Schwarzy had been

    barrelled. We were in the mood for some lynchin.

    ***

    Although some blamed Schwarzer, most blamed the referee. I was the

    only one blaming Steve and Nick from Sydney. Why me, Mozz? I

    asked as the second half slipped away, the sand funneling through the

    hourglass at a rate that defied the laws of physics. Please Mozz, listen

    to me. I didnt mean to tip Australia. I really think Japan will win. 1-

    0. Like I said so many times. Have some mercy, Mozz. It was one slipup in the jingoistic heat of the moment. But it seemed the Mozz was

    having none of it.

    Around us, some were turning to more traditional prayer forms,

    others to a strained rendition of the national anthem. For his

    part, Guus was turning to strikers. Tim Cahill, Josh Kennedy and

    John Aloisi were subbed on at the 53rd, 61st and 75th minute

    respectively. We were playing more positively now. When Viduka

    rocketed a powerful skimming free kick under a jumping Japanese

    wall, I honestly thought wed equalised, but goalkeeper Yoshikatsu

    Kawaguchi was down quicker than you could say Yoshikatsu

    Kawaguchi. Despite some shoddy Japanese defence all around him, he

    was having a blinder.

    ***

    A few years ago, I attended the famous Story scriptwriting course

    run by Robert McKee (the same Robert McKee screenwriter Charlie

    Kaufman portrayed in the film Adaptation). At some point he talked

    about structuring a story in three acts, and how at the end of the

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    17/21

    34

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    second act, the hero should be facing his or her greatest obstacle.

    For example, in a romantic comedy, the couple has to be torn apart,

    vowing never to speak to each other again, not until Brad respects

    Angelina for who she has to be. In an action/adventure, Bruce Willis

    has to be tied to a chair in a burning primary school, mistakenly

    believing that his son is dead and that the dyed-blonde guy with the

    nasty scar is on his way to blow up New York. It sets things up for

    Act Three, the third act climax. Angelina and Brad fall in love again.

    Bruce Willis rediscovers his roundhouse. Its the way of the classicHollywood ending. Do anything else, and its arthouse.

    Unfortunately, sport is often unsympathetic to this sort of

    storytelling. Woody Allen, a keen Knicks fan, once famously said that

    he loves watching sport because its the only theatre where even the

    actors dont know how it ends. (have to check quote!) There was no

    reason why Vidukas beautifully timed free kick, and Kawaguchis

    stunning save should have been the rock bottom that set things up for

    a third act climax. It could so easily have been an arthouse ending, thesort where Icelandic songbird Bjrk plays over the credits.

    Instead, we got an ending straight out of the McKee lecture notes. At

    83 minutes, a Lucas Neill throw catapulted into the box, Kewell flung

    his boot at the ball, and to supplement his famously handy miskick to

    Bresciano for the goal in Sydney against Uruguay, jammed it over to

    Tim Cahill. Somehow Cahill steered it between a thousand legs, and

    into the back of an unguarded net.

    Suddenly, the world was in magnificent disarray. My most vivid

    memory is the jumping.

    Yeeees! Yeeees! I screamed, hugging my beloved partner, before

    the guy from the row behind leaned over the top and took over. Next

    he turned his affections to me. Yeeees! Yeeeees! he cried, as my

    binoculars bounced up and nearly hit him in the face. I knew what he

    meant. The boys were on level terms, and we had the run of it.

    Soo-per, Super Tim

    Soop-er, Super Tim

    Soo-per, Super Tim

    Super Timmy Cahill!

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    18/21

    35

    We sang it loud and strong, back to our barracking best.

    Unfortunately, we were cut short by a Japanese attack. Oh God, surely

    we wouldnt concede now?

    Fukunishi, his hair dyed red like the rising sun, was the one with

    the ball. He was charging at Schwarzer, just him and the keeper.

    Yeeeeeesss! we screamed as the shot screamed narrowly wide. Now

    the barracking was back at full volume.

    Aus-stray-lee-ahhhh,

    la-la-la-la-la-la-la

    A minute passed. Australia took it forward. Just outside the penalty

    area, Aloisi tapped it deftly to Cahill, who stopped, checked the

    ball, ripped off a shot, and as the ball pin-balled from post to post,

    unleashed 10 million screams across Australia.

    I was exhausted now. Wed been bouncing for seven minutes and, inthe 38 degrees heat, I wasnt sure I was fit enough to be this happy. It

    was impossible. Praise be to Josh Kennedy, with his giraffe gait and

    fluorescent yellow boots. He was the one who had sparked this. The

    boys had snatched victory from the jaws of defeat, and unbelievably

    with 92 minutes on the clock, the Socceroos were 2-1 up and charging

    forward for the rinse and floss.

    Aloisi! Aloisi! Aloiseeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Now it was just funny. It

    was the sort of goal Australia never seems to score. Striker runs at

    defender, defender backs off, striker clinically slides it into the corner.

    3-1, 3-1 3-1, we sang. Japan was exhausted and we were Brazil.

    There had to be just seconds left.

    Peep! Peep! Peep! Good on ya ref! No hard feelings about before.

    The players and officials descended into an enormous group hug,

    and we continued on like popped corn at full heat. The sound system

    kicked in, and we were blasted with Stand Up for the Champions, asyrupy World Cup anthem the organisers had sculpted from Go West.

    We sang along, changing the word champions to Socceroos, the

    kitsch production drowned out by the efforts of the grandstand choir.

    The players walked down our end, and clapped us for our support.

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    19/21

    36

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    I hoped they forgave us for the quiet patch we had around the 70-

    minute mark.

    Three points. Whatever happened against Brazil, wed go into the

    Croatia match a chance to qualify for the second round. I gave Tamsin

    a hug. If youre reading this Gene, you were in it too. You might even

    remember itit was manic and unbalanced and your mother stopped

    breathing.

    Whatever happens, well always have Kaiserslautern, I said, getting

    the emphasis on exactly the right syllable.Breathless, Tam prised me off and regained her balance. Whatever

    happens, well always have Kaiserslautern.

    ***

    I spent the post match at the same outdoor restaurant where wed

    spent the pre-match, basking inin orderthe glow of victory, large

    cups of beer and the picturesque beauty of a 16th century town squareat dusk. Each rendezvous was another excuse to shriek and carry on.

    Rita was incoherent through the initial hug, and Tom smiled under his

    16-year-old, sweaty curls as I forced him into an embrace too. I told

    you Cahill and Kennedy, he said, sage-like, recoiling slightly from

    the none-too-fresh aroma of Hideously Yellow Von.

    This is the best day of my life, I said to Tom, just as Id said to

    everyone else who would listen for more than an hour. In fact, as a

    quick aside to my unborn childif you are reading thisremember

    that your birth came after the match against Japan. Of course, your

    birth day is the best day of your Daddys life. The truth is, it took your

    birth to stop Daddy saying, This is the best day of my life! pretty

    much every time the Socceroos took the field from November 2005 to

    the end of June 2006. And so you can rest assured, little Kaiserslautern

    Aloisi Cahill Wilson, your Daddy has his priorities safely in order.

    Later in that old cobbled square, I was hugging my mate CameronFink who, quite incredibly, needed a shower even more than me. Cam

    was born for this party. In Melbourne, he was famous for never having

    carved out a single day where he began work at nine and finished at

    five, surviving on a prodigious talent for graphic design and an easy-

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    20/21

    37

    going tolerance for spending time under the parental roof.

    Hes wiry, flowing of hair, tanned, and lights up a room when he

    enters it, specifically with his teeth. He left Melbourne University

    about a decade after he began there with a law degree he vowed

    he would never even collect, let alone use. And in spirit, Cam has

    never really left university. In the last 12 monthssix years after

    his graduationhe has organised a booze cruise, a naked march

    through the city of Melbourne and any number of themed parties, to

    which hes come as a fish, a Viking, a Mr Whippy Van, a dodgem car,the Death Star, a Viking (again) and a goose that actually lays eggs.

    Ask Cam why he continued to hang around the university and hed

    invariably say, the social life. Ask any of his friends why he did, and

    theyd say, the first-years. Cameron Fink is a charming man. Who

    else has had a 30th birthday where the first speaker begins his speech

    with I first met Cameron Fink the morning after he shagged my sister

    to which the third speaker responds, I already knew Cam Fink quite

    well when he shagged my sister. The second speaker didnt have asister.

    Today, his dress was an Aussie shirt, towelling shorts, and the one

    and only pair of orange Explorer socks on the planet. He stood before

    me, tanned and grinning and shouting, How good was that! Cam

    was staying in Kaiserslautern with his travelling mate Charlie, having

    both scored accommodation through the website www.couchsurfing.

    com. The site operates under the slogan creating a better world, one

    couch at a time and involves hosts opening up their homes and living

    rooms to travellers, completely free, all on the premise that those who

    surf will one day prop up the wave. Naturally, Cams host had fallen

    for him, and they were off to Strasbourg the next morning.

    They have been so welcoming, Cam said of the Kaiserslauts (or is

    it Kaiserslautians?). How good are the Germans? Last night, one guy

    found out we liked wine, and then walked us around the town, trying

    to find the nicest bottle in the district. In the end, he was distraughtbecause he could only dig up the second nicest.

    It was still pretty nice, said Charlie.

    We celebrated for a few hours, revelling in the smiles and well wishes

    we were receiving, not just from the locals, but from the Japanese

    WELL ALWAYS HAVE KAISERSLAUTERN

  • 7/28/2019 Australia United: We'll Always Have Kaiserslautern

    21/21

    AUSTRALIA UNITED

    too. Australia was better, one fan said, crouched and despondent.

    Australia deserve it.

    The train back to Frankfurt departed at 9.05pm, which

    unfortunately meant leaving Kaiserslautern while the streets were

    still jumping, and the golden shirts still had the run of the place. The

    consolation prize was a party carriage that was determined to sing and

    dance its way into the night.

    Take my breath a-way, the masses crooned. As Tom Zammit

    pointed out, there was a remarkable amount of slow dancing goingon, given an almost exclusively male dance floor.

    Rita had not forgotten she was a parent, as well as a fan. Tom can

    have one more beer, she said, heading to the cool of another carriage.

    Hes already had one in the beer garden.

    In the end, Tom and I had three Camaparis and orange. I know

    thats irresponsible and was disrespectful to my friends wishes, but

    shes 11 years older, and hes 17 years younger, and just for a moment,

    I wanted to feel down with the kids. Besides drinking is legal inGermany at 16, and if youre going to be slow dancing with men, it is

    made more palatable with a few drinks.

    I got Garfield out at the 75-minute mark, Tom said, as Im Walking

    On Sunshine boomed through the sauna-like atmosphere of the party

    carriage. I gave Garfield a kiss, and a few minutes later Cahill scored.

    And remember, you were crapped on by a bird, I added sagely.

    And I got crapped on by a bird, he nodded.

    There was no question about it. The boy had earned his drinks.