AS the town trail - wessexrailwaywalks.org.uk · O P H E A G F K C B J D L. Wincanton Bruton Castle Cary 3 7 Stourhead Shepton Mallet Wells ... is the rebus (or punning picture) of

brutontown.com

Bristol to Weymouth ‘Heart of Wessex’ line trains call at Bruton up to 8 times a day each way, from stations including Bristol Temple Meads, Bath Spa, Bradford-on-Avon, Trowbridge, Westbury, Frome, Castle Cary, Yeovil Pen Mill, Dorchester and Weymouth.

For more information about this scenic rail line, see heartofwessex.org.uk and brutoncarytrains.co.uk and for train times telephone 08457 484 950

Leaflet produced by Bruton Chamber of Commerce with the support of The Heart of Wessex Rail Partnership, Bruton Town Council and South Somerset District Council. Photography by Stuart Adlington, Hélène Binet, Bryony Brook, Robert Carter, Heather Edwards, Vincent Evans, Jenny Guest, Andrew de Mora, Mark Pickthall, Alison Shingler, bentaylorphotography.com. Cover image by Phil Taylor. Designed by Lucy or Robert.

The mainly Gothic interior contrasts dramatically with the Rococo gold plasterwork and marble of the chancel: it narrowly escaped destruction from Victorian restorers.

St Mary the Virgin is unusual in having two towers, the mid-14th century one to the north and the larger west tower from about 100 years later. A magnificent oak tie-beam roof covers the nave and chancel, built by the Berkeley family in the mid-18th century, inspired by buildings seen on their Grand Tour.

The church is used by both Church of England and Roman Catholic congregations. At the west end is a stained-glass window of Moses taking his people into the Promised Land – an appropriate theme for a gift from an American family, celebrating ancestors who emigrated from Bruton to the USA

250 years earlier. Other Brutonians were first Governors of Virginia, where another Bruton church stands in Williamsburg.

‘One of the proudest churches in the county’ Pevsner, The Buildings of England

Step into

Welcome to BrutonFollow the Town Trail—

• Stunning art gallery

• Beautiful church

• Ancient Packhorse Bridge

• Medieval bartons

• 17th-century almshouse

• Climb to the Dovecote

• Fascinating old buildings

• Fine food

• High Street shopping

For longer walks into the local countryside, leaflets can be bought in the Community Office, 26 High Street ba10 0aa. These are mainly field walks with some road and track over pleasant undulating countryside, all starting at Bruton Station: Ansford & Cole (7 miles), Stoney Stoke (10), King Alfred’s Tower (10), Wyke & Huish Lane (4), The Groves (5&8), The Coombes (9), Greenscombe (6) & Cole (4).

Bruton events

Bruton MuseumThe story of Bruton starts with fossils of the Jurassic age; artefacts come from a Roman temple, Anglo-Saxon settlements, a 12th-century priory, the life of a prosperous market town and Bruton’s links with America from Williamsburg to John Steinbeck.

Each month casespace contains the creative work of a local person or a collection belonging to a Bruton resident.

Entry is free. Telephone 01749 813 014 26 High Street ba10 0aa

Open weekdays 11 am–1 pm, Saturdays 11 am–3 pm Summer opening hours may be longer or by appointment through the Community Office on 01749 813 014

Visit us by train

see back page

for more details

For information about Bruton events such as the Bruton Festival of Arts, Christmas Evening, Packhorse Fair, the Spiral of Light, concerts, art exhibitions and the flower show,

pick up a copy of our parish magazine The Dove, or visit brutontown.com Below left: Spiral of Light, February Below top: Packhorse Fair, May Bottom: Bruton Christmas Evening

The National Trust’s Dovecote stands in Abbey Park above the town.Perhaps this mysterious building began as part of Bruton’s Augustinian Abbey. After Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries, the Berkeley family turned the abbey into a mansion and may have used the Dovecote as a prospect tower in their deerpark. In the 18th century pigeonholes were put in for pigeons and doves, for their eggs, meat and manure. The National Trust undertook considerable restoration work in 2010. An optional detour on the Town Trail, overleaf, a walk here

gives fine views of the town and leads onwards to the remains of the Abbey Fish Ponds.

The mystery of the

Dovecote

By train to Bruton

SA AS BTRC

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ARCHITECTURE  BAR & GRILL

COMMUNITY  EDUCATION  EVENTS

EXHIBITIONS  GARDEN  LANDSCAPE  RESIDENCIES

Durslade Farm, Dropping Lane, Bruton BA10 0NLT: +44(0)1749 814 060

www.hauserwirthsomerset.com

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Please contact Camilla Oulton [email protected] 814 251

KING’S BRUTONFOUNDED 1519

HMC |CO-EDUCATIONAL | DAY AND BOARDING SCHOOL13 – 18 | SITUATED IN THE HEART OF BRUTON

Highest Quality,Locally ProducedMeat & Poultry...

Bill the Butcher11 High Street, Bruton. Tel. 01749 812388

Find us at

And much more!

In the High Street

Bill the ButcherHighest quality, locally produced

meat & poultry . . . and much more!

Find us at 11 High Street, Bruton01749 812 388

HUGH SEXEY’S HOSPITAL1638

The High Street ~ Bruton

A unique 17th century, Grade 1 listed alms house, with a beautiful Jacobean Chapel, courtyard, gardens.

Open to the public from 9.00am to 5.00pm each day.

Individual visitors welcome, with guided tours for groups by prior arrangement.

Traditional Chapel services each Sunday and Wednesday.

For further information please contact the Master01749 813 369

[email protected]

Indulgence for House & Garden

21 High Street, BrutonSomerset. BA10 0A11

01749 813 011

[email protected]

contemporary accommodation in BrutonOak House, Coombe Street, Bruton, Somerset, BA10 0EN

01749 812022 www.oakhousesomerset.co.uk

TT RR UU FF FFLL EESS BB RRAASS SS EERR II EE 95 High Street, Bruton BA10 0AR Bruton’s award winning French restaurant with recognition from ‘Taste of the West’ and TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence Tel: 01749 812180 www.trufflesbrasserie.com

51 High Street, Bruton, Somerset, BA10 [email protected] www.mattskitchen.co.uk

01749 812027

“Outstanding food in a refreshingly different atmosphere”.

51 High Street, Bruton, Somerset, BA10 [email protected] www.mattskitchen.co.uk

01749 812027

“Outstanding food in a refreshingly different atmosphere”.

51 High Street, Bruton, Somerset, BA10 [email protected] www.mattskitchen.co.uk

01749 812027

“Outstanding food in a refreshingly different atmosphere”.

The Flower Shop 8 High Street,

Bruton, Somerset. BA10 0AA Telephone: 01749 812465

[email protected]

www.theflowershopbruton.co.uk

The Flower Shop 8 High Street,

Bruton, Somerset. BA10 0AA Telephone: 01749 812465

[email protected]

www.theflowershopbruton.co.uk

01749 812 307 Trendle Farm BA10 0BA millonthebrue.co.uk

Our classroom!All year Day & Residential

www.godminster.com www.facebook.com/godminster @godminsterfarm

Station Road, Bruton, Somerset BA10 0EH tel: 01749 813733

Visit us and taste ourAward WinningCheese Range

The GODMINSTER® Shop

37700_Step_into_Bruton_Advert_v4 12/02/2015 11:08 Page 1

EAT & dRink . . .At The Chapel Bakery, Restaurant, Winestore, Clubroom, Terrace, Bedrooms. High Street ba10 0ae (01 749 814 070) The Bruton Castle Great beer, good food. Dinner Wed–Sat and lunch Thu–Sun. High Street ba10 0aw (01 749 812 104)Cole Manor Tea Rooms Cream teas, coffees, cakes, light lunches and Sunday roasts. Tue –Sun 10–5. Cole Manor, Bruton ba10 0pj (01 749 813 676)Green Monkey Juice bar & vegetarian café. 35 High Street (01749 813 856)Matt’s kitchen Wed, Thu, Fri evenings; private functions Sat. 51 High Street ba10 0aw (01 749 812 027). Roth Bar & Grill Tue–Sun 9am–5pm (Summer), –4pm (Winter). Mon closed (except Bank Holidays). Fri Late 6pm–midnight. Durslade Farm, Dropping Lane ba10 0nl (01 749 814 700) rothbarandgrill.co.ukThe Sun inn Traditional pub food, eat in or take away plus authentic Persian menu. Sky Sports and Skittle Alley. 33 High Street ba10 0ah (01 749 813 493)

& STAy . . .Barefoots Orchard Station Road (01 749 814 930)barefootsorchard.co.ukBrue House In town B&B with parking & without stairs (01 749 813 524) bruehouse.comOak House Contemporary accommodation in the heart of Bruton. Coombe Street ba10 0en (01 749 812 022) oakhousesomerset.co.ukHigh House 73 High Street (01 749 813 015)highhousebruton.co.ukThe Pines 1 Old Station Lane, Cole (01 749 813 103)thepinesbruton.co.ukTurks Hall Lusty Gardens ba10 0bx (07807 193 450) turkshall.co.ukThe Wing Overlooking peaceful Somerset hills. 26 St Catherine’s Hill ba10 0dg. Contact Amelia 07891 159 693 or 01 749 812 716

& SHOP . . .The Antique Shop Antiques, jewellery, silver, glass, china, gifts. Open Thur–Sat. 5 High Street ba10 0ab (01 749 813 264)Church Bridge Stores Post Office & convenience store. 14 Patwell Street ba10 0eq (01 749 812 339) churchbridgestores.com

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Left along the High Street, where the buildings are in many styles, with roofs of tiles, slate and stone. Mostly they date from the 17th, 18th and early 19th centuries but numbers 34–36 and 16–20 are 15th-century of timber construction. The beams on the latter used to be plastered over, then exposed by a recent owner who preferred the look of them.

The double-fronted building on the south side, dated 1893, was a garage with petrol pumps, but now houses the Museum and Community Office. The Museum is well worth a visit (see details overleaf). In the Community Office are information sheets with country walks around Bruton. Next door is a former chapel, now a restaurant, At the Chapel.

Bruton centre is laid out in the late medieval way, with restricted frontages on the main road, and long strips of land behind them, known as burgage plots, later used for gardens, outbuildings, stables and stock.

Alleys head north and south off the High Street, leading to the two parallel roads, Higher and Lower Backway. The local word for the alleys is Bartons.

Priory House, part of King’s School, has a jetty or overhang jutting out over the road. To the left of this is a relief sculpture of the Green Man with foliage in his mouth, with a unicorn, representing fertility and purity. The shield on the front has the letters IH (I is the medieval J) and PB, standing for John Henton, Prior of Bruton. Between the initials is the rebus (or punning picture) of a Hen and a Tun (or barrel). In the 15th century he brought to an end the somewhat relaxed regime at the Priory, banning the playing of dice, hunting, indulging in frivolities and women in the Priory, but he did improve their beer.

Further along on the left is Sexey’s Hospital, with the hanging sign outside ‘Hugh Sexey 1638’. These almshouses were founded by Hugh Sexey, auditor to Elizabeth I and James I. This post enabled him to amass a fortune, so his executors could endow the Hospital and, much later, Sexey’s School in Bruton. The first residents were 12 poor and elderly men and women from Bruton, with a rule that drunkards, swearers, unquiet and disorderly persons should be removed. It is still a popular residence for the elderly of the town, and visitors should

25 minutes walking from Church Bridge and back (excluding detour to the Dovecote) plus all the time you need to enjoy the sights.

Park at the station, or in the car park just below Station Road, or start the walk after visiting the Hauser & Wirth Somerset gallery. It was a model farm just over 100 years ago but became increasingly derelict. A huge restoration project in 2014 by the gallery owners blended new with the old and created gallery spaces, an onsite restaurant and a meadow garden designed by Piet Oudolf, whose other projects include the High Line in New York.

From the gallery car park, cross the road and follow the grassy footpath down to the right. Nearing the bridge, pass the dips in the ground which were once the fishponds of the old Bruton Abbey. Go under the railway bridge to the bottom of Station Road. On the corner is the recently built, traditionally designed signal box. Just uphill is the companion station building, station clock and old-style red phone box, with its permanent lady caller, Rita.

From the bottom of Station Road, continue down to St Mary the Virgin church (see details overleaf).

Cross Church Bridge to where the medieval fairs were probably held. On the right is the Patwell Pump, a small pointed-roofed building, one of a number of Bruton wells.

Left up Patwell Street, noting the flood marker, showing the level in the great flood of 1917. Look back and imagine the whole area covered in flood water. Bruton was always liable to flood until the 1982 flood prevention scheme, which includes a dam upstream of the town. At the next junction the library is on the right, built by a teetotal philanthropist on the site of the old Wellington Inn.

Opposite is a former coaching inn, the Blue Ball, and on the left a fine old Georgian residence, with its stone roof and original bow window. This has glazing bars not of the usual wood, iron or lead but copper to advertise the work of the ironmonger formerly at the back of the building.

Next is Bruton Pharmacy and on the left the Old Post Office, both with Georgian façades. This building used to be a post office and four shops, was rescued from dereliction to become a restaurant, and has now been converted to residential and office use.

respect the fact that there are residents here. Inside the gateway, you could be in the quadrangle of an Oxbridge college. Hugh Sexey’s bust overlooks the lawn. Ahead is a fine view towards the Dovecote and across the gardens, which still provide the residents with fruit, vegetables and a place to relax.

To the right is the entrance to the almshouse chapel, with Jacobean furnishing. Look in vain for the electric lights, as it uses almost entirely the original candle lighting. Through the next door on the right is an old muniments chest, a wrought-iron coffer with an elaborate lock which covers the entire underside of the lid. Once someone closed it by mistake, and an expert had to come down from the V&A to open it. As a result the lid is now chained open.

Back in the High Street, you could take a short cut left to the bottom of the High Street, or turn right for a few yards to St Catherine’s Hill, which is almost opposite. This junction has on several occasions achieved national notoriety when a lorry follows its satnav down the narrow hill and becomes firmly wedged at the bottom. Up this hill, then on reaching double garage doors facing you, turn left down Tolbury Lane. Downhill, fork left along the stream to the start of the ford. Some of the water goes under the old mill house, and the rest continues along the mill leat.

The path continues past the Duckpond. Where the path meets the High Street, the house on the left is Town Mill House. There was a waterwheel here until 1970. Turn right to the bottom of the High Street, and follow the main road round to the left. Note on the right: Tower Hill, the way to Mill on the Brue Outdoor Centre.

After the river bridge, turn left along the riverside walk. Where the path forks is an optional detour to the Dovecote (see details overleaf), where you turn right uphill, up the steps and along the road opposite, keeping to the road that runs adjacent to the play park. Bear left at the crossroads in the direction of Wincanton. The access point to the Dovecote is 300 yards along.

Returning from the detour, back at the fork in the riverside walk, follow the sign pointing to the High Street. Go down and across a footbridge. King’s School can be seen on the south bank of the River Brue. Turn right where the path joins Lower Backway, which runs parallel

to the High Street. You can see the gardens at the back of Sexey’s Hospital, and a wonderful array of architectural styles, with terraced gardens on the old burgage plots.

Further along, where the left-hand side of the road narrows in, you can see three arches of different shapes built into the boundary wall with the back gardens; all these probably came from the ruins of Bruton Abbey. In 1786 the Hoare family, owners of the Abbey, decided to pull it down. The building provided a ready quarry for buildings in the town, where Abbey stonework can be seen in many places.

At the end of the tarmac road, the old ford with stepping stones can be seen on the right, and just beyond, the 15th-century Packhorse Bridge. This has been repaired many times after floods, the last in 1982. Packhorses were needed to carry the huge amounts of wool produced in medieval Somerset down to Poole on the south coast for export. A heavily laden horse could cross this narrow bridge, even if its bulging load projected out on each side above the top of the parapet.

The three arches of Church Bridge can be seen from here. Its parapet has also been repaired after flood damage. Cross the Packhorse Bridge, pausing for a view to the right of the stepping stones, and to the left of the enormous key in a ‘keyhole’ in the back of the Community Hall. Pass the small riverside building that housed the Bruton fire engine and the town bier.

At the main road, the large wall on the far side of the road is known as the Abbey Wall, with a large blocked-up gateway that used to lead to the Abbey. Bruton Rectory is attached to part of the south side of the wall, and the rest is free-standing, and forms a boundary for the school.

The walk ends as you turn left, back to Church Bridge.

the town trail

Toilets available to the public in

business hours are located in the

Community Office, At the Chapel,

Cat’s Café, and the Bruton Castle.

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