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ARMANI’S FEBRUARY DATE/2 THE OVEREXPOSURE INDEX/12Women’s Wear
Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • December 16, 2005 •
$2.00
WWDFRIDAYBeauty
PHOT
O BY
ROB
ERT
MIT
RA; S
TYLE
D BY
MEG
ANM
CINT
YRE
Hair RaisingNEW YORK — You could say hair today, hairtomorrow is
Shiseido’s credo with its newestproduct, Adenogen. Designed to help
men’s thinninghair fatten up, it is already a runaway hit in
Japan.Adenogen, which will retail for $66, will hit U.S.specialty
store doors in April. For more, see page 7.
See Keeping, Page6
Beauty’s Holiday Hope:Last-Minute ShoppersSeen Saving the
SeasonBy Julie Naughton and Matthew W. Evans
NEW YORK — Last year, beauty retailerswere saved on the night
beforeChristmas — and they believe theprestige market is gearing up
for arepeat performance. In fact, a number ofstore executives are
predicting gains inthe mid- to high-single digits.
“The [holiday] business will come atleast as late as it did last
year — and theswing of Hanukkah lined up withChristmas will push
the business evenlater,” predicted Howard Kreitzman,vice president
and divisionalmerchandise manager for cosmetics and
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WWD.COM2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005
GENERALLast year, beauty retailers were saved on the night
before Christmas — andthey believe the prestige market is gearing
up for a repeat performance.
Sears will open a pop-up store at the ABC “Good Morning
America”studios at Times Square Saturday featuring top-selling
gifts.
EYE: Screening “Match Point,” the latest from Woody Allen…a
sit-downwith Bruce Weber…and a closer look at the “Dog Sees God”
cast.
Retailers predict increased beauty sales will be delivered by
last-minuteshoppers this season.
1248
WWDFRIDAYBeauty
● P.R. CHANGES: Effective Jan. 3, Donna Karan International
isrelocating its European public relations efforts to London
fromMilan. The London-based agency Purple will oversee the
compa-ny’s communications for Europe, and the p.r. department in
DKI’sMilan offices is closing down. Chantal Theodore, the
Milan-basedp.r. director, will be leaving the company. “By
operating out ofLondon, our European public relations efforts are
more central-ized to service Europe,” said Patti Cohen, DKI’s
executive vicepresident of global marketing and communications.
“Purple willallow DKI to respond quickly to local press and
marketing needsand requests, as well as to explore new business
opportunities.”
● PRADA APPOINTMENTS: Prada on Thursday named ArmandoTolomelli
as director of group control. Tolomelli was previouslycontroller at
Barilla. In a statement, Prada said it plans tostrengthen the
control function in its commercial department.Prada also named
Cinzia Tito as group director of human re-sources. Tito previously
managed human resources at Colgate-Palmolive, first in Italy and
Europe, then in the U.S. and China.
In Brief
Classified
Advertisements........................................................................15
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Ellen Tracy has reached an agreement in principle
withClearVision Optical Co. to produce the Ellen Tracy
EyewearCollection. The deal has not been completed yet. The status
wasincorrect in an item on page 2, Wednesday.
Correction
NEW YORK — Bloomingdale’s public memorial serv-ice in memory of
Kal Ruttenstein will be 11 a.m. Jan.11 at Carnegie Hall, on West
57th Street and SeventhAvenue here. The doors will open at 10:30
a.m.
Ruttenstein died of complications from canceron Dec. 8. He was
69.
Ruttenstein was Bloomingdale’s senior vice
president of fashion direction, a veteran of thestore for almost
three decades and among themost influential and best-known fashion
execu-tives in the country. He nurtured many young de-signers,
spotted emerging trends ahead of thecompetition and brought
merchandising flair tothe selling floors and windows at
Bloomingdale’s.
Memorial Set for Kal Ruttenstein
PARIS — Emanuel Ungaro is poaching a design-er from Italy’s
Roberto Cavalli to give the housenew creative élan.
Norwegian Peter Hyde Dundas, 39, part ofCavalli’s team for the
last three years, will suc-ceed Vincent Darré as artistic director
at Ungaro,sources confirmed. The house on Thursday for-mally
announced Darré’s departure.
An announcement of Dundas’ appointment isexpected as early as
today. WWD on Tuesday re-ported that Dundas would get the job.
Dundas
worked at Jean Paul Gaultier from 1992 to 2000before moving to
Cavalli.
He joins Ungaro at a moment of transition.Last month, San
Francisco entrepreneur AsimAbdullah bought the firm from
GruppoFerragamo with plans to give it greater globalreach.
Dundas will be the third designer — afterDarré and Giambattista
Valli — to follow infounder Emanuel Ungaro’s footsteps.
— Robert Murphy
Ungaro Picks Dundas for Design Post
NEW YORK — Sears brands suchas Lands’ End, Craftsman andKenmore
may play in Peoria, Ill.,but will they play in Manhattan?
That’s what Sears HoldingsCorp. wants to find out. The par-ent
of Sears, Roebuck andKmart will open two 150-square-foot Sears
shops at Kmart loca-tions here, at 250 West 34thStreet and 770
Broadway.
“Sears doesn’t have any storesin Manhattan at all,” aspokesman
said. “We want to seethe customer reaction and re-sponse to Sears
products. Wewant to introduce Sears mer-chandise into Kmart and see
howit sells. We have Kenmore appli-ances and Craftsman tools insome
Kmart stores and Die Hardbatteries in all Kmart stores. Thisis a
further expression of that ina Manhattan location.”
If the test succeeds, it couldmean more Sears merchandiseon
Kmart shelves. And a compa-ny spokesman didn’t rule outthe
possibility of a full storeconversion far down the road.
The in-store Sears shopswon’t have a softline
assortmentrepresentative of a Sears depart-ment store “because that
wouldbe confusing,” the spokesmansaid. “We have a full assortmentof
Kmart apparel and softlines.This will be more of a vignette, ifyou
will, with a limited selectionof Lands’ End.”
“Sears is in a period of ex-
perimentation,” said ArnoldAronson, managing director ofretail
strategies at Kurt SalmonAssociates. “For them to try tomeasure how
well some of theirbest brand assets can do bycross-pollinating them
withtheir other property, Kmart, isworth an experimentation.”
Sears Holdings also is lookingat The Home Depot, which
aggres-sively has moved into Manhattanand is having some success.
“Thatsays there’s an appetite for peoplehere who are
do-it-yourselfers,”Aronson said. “Sears wants to getits share of
that.”
As part of Sears’ effort toraise its New York profile,
thecompany last month erected asnow globe in front of theNasdaq
building in TimesSquare. In addition, a 1,500-square-foot Sears
holiday pop-up shop will open in the “GoodMorning America” studios
onBroadway and 44th Street onSaturday and stay open through
Dec. 22. The store will feature 25top-selling gifts such as
portableDVD players; Lands’ End squalljackets, gloves, hats and
scarves;Covington cashmere cardigans;Apostrophe opera jackets;
terryvelour robes, and tools. Largeitems such as wide-screen TVscan
be ordered through a wire-less Internet kiosk with access
tosears.com and landsend.com.
The store’s hours of opera-tion, 1 p.m. to 8 p.m., “are
un-usual,” the spokesman said,adding that they’re necessitatedby
the ABC show’s schedule.“The store has to be taken downand
reassembled every night.That’s as quickly as we get it to-gether in
the morning.”
And why has the store“popped up” so late in the sea-son? “It was
planned as an ex-citing finish to the season and away to attract
last-minute shop-pers and procrastinators,” thespokesman said.
— Sharon Edelson
By Luisa Zargani
MILAN — Giorgio Armani will kick off MilanFashion Week,
tentatively showing on Feb. 19.
Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber ofFashion, praised
Armani for his decision, con-sidering it a pivotal step helping to
convince in-ternational editors and retailers to stay for theentire
week. “We’ve never had a Giorgio Armanishow open the week on a
Sunday,” said Boselli.“Mr. Armani is a major entrepreneur and
de-signer, who wants to do something important forthe Italian
fashion system.”
An Armani spokesman said the designer “en-
joys showing at the beginning of the week. Wehave the advantage
to meet buyers and press af-terwards, and set up important
appointments forthe whole week, especially now that our
acces-sories business is growing.”
The spokesman noted the company has oftenopened the week with
Emporio Armani.
As reported, Milan Fashion Week is goingback to a longer
schedule, after a five-day weeklast September was deemed too taxing
by buyersand editors. Next spring, the shows will run fromFeb. 18
to 26. Boselli said he is hoping a big-league designer will close
the week, either onthe evening of Feb. 25 or the morning of Feb.
26.
Armani to Start Milan Fashion Week
“There’s energy in New York…Awhite wall in New York is not a
whitewall in Paris because there’s not thesame energy.’’
— Karl Lagerfeld
Quote of the WeekThe Sears pop-up store will have a high-tech
feel.
Sears Popping Up in Manhattan
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NEW YORK — After sitting throughWednesday night’s
Hogan-sponsoredCinema Society screening of “Match Point,”Woody
Allen’s disturbing film about anobsessive adulterous affair, many
needed a
drink. Patricia Clarkson wisely took a glass of bubbly withher
into the Tribeca Grand’s screening room to view theflick, but
others such as Philip Seymour Hoffman, BetteMidler, Marjorie Raein
and Ivanka Trump had to wait untilthe after party at the Soho
Grand.
Thanks to Allen’s casting choices and a dose of luck,there was a
heavy contingent of sexy men, includingMatthew Goode, Jonathan
Rhys-Meyers, Josh Lucas anda very tardy Josh Hartnett. And, as one
would expect,they were surrounded by ladies. Rhys-Meyers, for
one,came unchaperoned and wandered through the crowdaccepting
accolades for his performance as ChrisWilton, a social-climbing
tennis pro. Though the filmis deeply sinister, it was actually the
tennis that gaveRhys-Meyers the most trouble. He admitted to
notbeing very good, and, thankfully, was never asked toplay against
the more skilled Allen. “He would havekicked my ass,” he said with
a smile. “And he’s myboss, so I would have let him.”
Yes, most people would let Allen do whatever hewants, including
skippinghis own screening. Thedirector has never reallyseen the
virtue ofwatching one of his filmsin front of an audience.“It
doesn’t interest me atall,” he said. “I’ve beenworking on this film
for a longtime. I made it two years ago andI’ve done two movies
since then. It’sold for me now.”
What’s likely new for the director,however, is his close
proximity to afashion plate. Scarlett Johanssonhad him pinned
against the wall fora portion of the evening, procuringfashion
advice. “How long have you had thatcoat?” she asked him after he
critiqued herMoschino frock.
“Longer than the shoes,” he saidunapologetically.
“And you’re giving me fashion advice,” shelaughed, though she
later admitted the simpleblack Moschino was actually the first
dress Allenhad approved of during their publicity rounds.
The starlet didn’t have him cornered for toolong, though, as the
notoriously shy director triedto make a subtle exit with his wife,
Soon-Yi.“You’re going to miss me dancing on the bar,”Johansson
cooed.
WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 20054WWD.COM
NEW YORK — After being translated into 21 languages,
immortalizedin the musical “You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown” and
analyzedendlessly by academics, who saw it as everything from an
extensionof existentialist philosophy to a parable about Christian
ethics, the“Peanuts” comic strip is being reinvented yet again.
Today, an“unauthorized parody,” called “Dog Sees God: Confessions
of aTeenage Blockhead,” opens off-Broadway at the Century Center
forthe Performing Arts at 111 East 15th Street. The play features a
leadnamed CB, a dog that has terminal rabies and enough “on the
verge”actors to fill an entire entertainment issue of Teen People.
Here’s acheat sheet about four of its young stars. — J.B.
Eddie Kaye Thomas, 25Character: CBBegan acting: “When I was
seven, I did a play called ‘New Jersey, NewYork,’” says the actor,
who starred as Finch in the “American Pie” series. Relationship to
his character: He never owned a dog, but he found
much to identify with in the play. “It’s a love story,” he says,
“alittle ‘Catcher in the Rye’-esque, about that thing that
happenswhen you realize your parents aren’t superheroes.”
Eliza Dushku, 24Character: Van’s sister, a takeoff on Lucy.Began
acting: At the age of 10, she got the lead in a movie called“That
Night,” but she’s better known for playing Faith on thetelevision
show “Buffy the Vampire Slayer,” and Missy Pantone inthe
cheerleading flick “Bring It On.” Relationship to her character: “I
was driven, tyrannical, precocious andas loud as it gets. I was
always therapizing other people’s problems.”
America Ferrera, 21Character: CB’s sister, based on Sally.Began
acting: At age seven in a production of “Romeo and Juliet.”
“Iplayed the apothecary,” says Ferrera, whose career has been on
the ascentsince her role as Carmen in this year’s “Sisterhood of
the Traveling Pants.”Relationship to her character: “I’m the
youngest of six kids, so Iknow what it’s like to be the younger
sibling. She’s searching byherself and doesn’t fit in at all.”
Ian Somerhalder, 27Character: MattBegan acting: At the age of
six as Rolfe in a school production of“The Sound of Music.” Then he
got his break in 2004 on the ABCdrama “Lost,” playing Boone
Carlyle, a guy who eventually dies aparticularly grisly death
before the end of season one. Relationship to his character: “He’s
based on Pigpen. Now he’s a completegerma-phobe. I’m totally OCD.”
To say the least, it’s a stretch from “Lost,”on which he played a
character whose only baths were in the ocean, butwho never lost the
gym body. “They’re eating fruit and pork. It’s only oneday an
episode,” he laughs. “So after one season, it’s only day 35.”
NEW YORK — He’s photographed adcampaigns for Versace, Calvin
Klein andRalph Lauren and been a contributor to Vogueand Vanity
Fair for years. Now, Bruce Weber’sfashion photography has been
compiled in a450-page coffee-table book called “Blood,Sweat and
Tears: How I Stopped Worryingand Learned to Love Fashion,”
published byteNeues. WWD caught up with him before hisbook signing
at Bergdorf Goodman Wednesdaynight to discuss his work, magazines
and hislove for Helmut Newton. — Jacob Bernstein
WWD: The title of the book is “Blood, Sweatand Tears: How I
Stopped Worrying andLearned to Love Fashion.” Yet it seems in
manyways that your obsession with physicalperfection makes you
perfectly suited to thefashion world.
Bruce Weber:Thanks. I take that asa major complimentbecause most
peoplethink I like to throwthe clothes right outthe window.
Editorssay to me, “Whereare the clothes?” andI say, “The dog
hasthem in its mouth.”I’m always getting introuble becausepeople
wanted to see the clothes from headto toe on the models.
WWD: By everybody, whom do you mean?B.W.: Everybody [big laugh].
One time,
when I first started, I was doing a job forGlamour, with Patti
Hansen and this young guynamed Keith. I was on a farm and I got
reallyinvolved with this horse, and I thought,“Wouldn’t it be great
if you just got a glimpse of[the people] from the side?” Because I
thought,“The jeans aren’t new.” Then I came back withthe pictures
and they said, “Where are theclothes?” And I said, “They’re in your
mind oryour spirit.” I like to look at fashion reportagepictures in
the newspapers, because there’s afreeness to it. They’re not so
concerned aboutit in the way people selling clothes need to
be.Maybe it’d be better if clothes weren’t sold, ifthey were just
given away.
WWD: It’s also about having a sense ofhumor, correct?
B.W.: Yes. I always felt a sense of humorallows you to get away
with a lot.
WWD: Toward the end of the book, youwrite about growing up near
a woman namedLypsinka, who taught you how to wear highheels and
couture. Then you show the dragqueen Lypsinka on the next page.
B.W.: I wanted to do a make-believe story,sort of like the kind
my parents read to me asa child. I kind of imagined a neighbor
likethat because I wished I’d had one. Maybethen I’d see the world
in a different way.
WWD: What’s wrong with your world viewnow? Do you think you’re
too square?
B.W.: I grew up in a small town in theMidwest, I went to
boarding school and BaptistCollege. That seems pretty square to
me.
WWD: One of the book’s most surprisingimages is Helmut Newton
with his wife, June.She’s dressed in men’s drag and his hand ison
her breast. Were you a big fan of his?
B.W.: Yeah. Helmut and June were sort of myadoptive parents. I
spent so much time withthem at the Chateau Marmont. I loved that
heloved women so much and so one day, I thought,“Why not dress June
up like a guy?” Partlybecause Helmut was always teasing me
aboutphotographing all these good-looking men.
WWD: What other photographers inspiredyour work?
B.W.: Lisette Model, my teacher at TheNew School. I found out
about her throughDiane Arbus. I really admired her so much.Also,
Edward Weston and August Sander.
eye®
FASHION VICTIM
ScarlettJohansson inMoschino.
EmilyMortimer
inChanel.
WoodyAllen
MatthewGoodeHolding Court
Jonathan Rhys-MeyersJonathan Rhys-Meyers
RachelRoy invintage.
PatriciaClarksonin Luckyjeans witha Hoganbag
PatriciaClarksonin Luckyjeans witha Hoganbag.
BruceWeber
PART
Y PH
OTOS
BY
STEV
E EI
CHNE
R; W
EBER
BY
KEIT
H SM
ITH
Eliza Dushku andEddie KayeThomas in “DogSees God.”
GoodGriefGoodGrief
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fragrances at Bloomingdale’s. The standouts so far in fragrance
include the scents
from the celebrity trio of Sarah Jessica Parker, BritneySpears
and Jennifer Lopez, as well as the designer fra-grances Calvin
Klein’s Euphoria, Youth Dew AmberNude, Miss Dior Cherie and Viktor
& Rolf ’sFlowerbomb. Newsmakers on the men’s side includedRalph
Lauren’s Polo Black, Armani Code by GiorgioArmani and Canali.
Retailers are banking on an extra day betweenThanksgiving and
Christmas, plus an extra push fromHanukkah, which starts on Dec.
26, compared withDec. 8 last year.
“The business will continue to be late, late, late,”agreed a
major department store retailer, who request-ed anonymity. “We
really won’t know how we did untilwe all wake up on the 26th.”
And, said the retailer, business will continue to belate going
forward.
“Every year, Black Friday has less and less of an im-pact
overall,” said the department store retailer. “Thebusiness was OK,
because of the newness and heavysales promotions, but it’s becoming
less and less of anindicator as far as holiday business, at least
for beauty.”While business is currently “relatively flat” in
beauty,the additional day between Thanksgiving and Christmasis
expected to give the business a lift. “However, we’renot
anticipating a huge windfall,” said the retailer.
But many say they are prepared for the last-minuterush.
“We still see the final weekend before Christmas asthe strongest
weekend of the season, even though shop-pers have a full week —
including Saturday — after-wards,” said Betsy Olum, senior vice
president of mar-keting for Sephora. “But we do expect to be busy
in thefinal week, as the procrastinators spread the shoppingseason
out to its last days. We are also optimistic forthe final week of
December. We have a lot of new andexclusive products to launch on
12/26, and the fact thatHanukkah falls immediately after Christmas
suggestsan extra strong post-Christmas week.”
“Business was strong the entire week preceding theholiday and
throughout the Thanksgiving weekend,with particularly strong online
sales,” continued Olum.“The strong momentum we’ve experienced
year-to-date,including Thanksgiving, bodes well for holiday
sales.”
At Saks Fifth Avenue, Bulgari’s Red Tea fragrancewill be
launched exclusively on Sunday, noted KateOldham, the retailer’s
vice president and dmm of cos-
metics accessories and fragrances. On Dec. 1, Sean“Diddy” Combs
hand-delivered the first shipment ofthe so-called “couture” version
of his new men’s fra-grance for the Estée Lauder Cos., which will
be carriedat Saks’ Manhattan; Beverly Hills, Calif.; Atlanta;
BalHarbour, Fla., and Dadeland, Fla., stores.
Saks launched five scents this fall. “We are veryhappy with all
of our new fragrances,” Oldham re-marked. “We are very optimistic
for our Christmas sea-son. Our fragrance business has been enjoying
a strongperformance this fall.”
Versus Thanksgiving last year, Belk’s fragrance busi-ness was up
in the high-double digits, according to JonPollack, executive vice
president and general merchan-dise manager for cosmetics and
fragrances. “The
strength was really on the women’s side,” saidPollack. “We’re
very bullish on the fragrancepart of the business. It should end
Decemberwith a double-digit increase in total.”
Pollack said he anticipates women’s willbe stronger than men’s,
with women’s expect-ed to be up in the high-double digits andmen’s
up in the high-single digits. “There’s somuch more news and
animation in the mar-keting efforts [on the women’s side].”
The fragrance business at BergdorfGoodman has been “extremely
robust for theseason,” said Ed Burstell, senior vice presi-dent and
gmm of cosmetics, accessories andfootwear, “and we’re exceeding
plan for sea-son-to-date so far.” He noted both women’sand men’s
were trending up.
Shelley Rozenwald, senior vice presidentof cosmetics, skin care,
fragrance and beautyservices at Holt Renfrew, said, “We had agreat
November.” She added that fragrancehas been a strong business for
the past 18months, with women’s scents up 15 percentyear-over-year
for November and men’s up 7percent. The retailer launched seven
newscents this season. As for the rest of the year,Rozenwald said
she was anticipating an in-crease of 18 percent on the women’s
sidecompared with last year and a 7 percent riseon the men’s side.
“So far, it looks reallypromising.”
“Since Studio is not promotionally driven,this date is less
critical to us than to other typesof retailers,” said Robin
Coe-Hutshing, founderand creative director for the Studio at
FredSegal. “However, it is the beginning of the sea-son, and we can
use it as a litmus to gauge sea-
sonal business. The first weekend of December is a wake-up call
for shoppers and we usually see a sharp rise insales and traffic
beginning at that point. [However] peopleare just dipping their toe
in at this point. Our real holidaybusiness tends to hit a bit later
— and once it begins, it isnonstop. That said, we were very pleased
with the trendand anticipate a very good response to our holiday
offer-ing.” Coe-Hutshing added that she expects holiday salesto be
“about even” with last year.
Shawn Tavakoli, owner of Los Angeles-based BeautyCollection
boutique, believes that the surge will come lateagain this year. “I
don’t think it is going to be any differentthis year,” said
Tavakoli. “People have more on theirplate every year and they
procrastinate. Also, everyonewants to take advantage of the
last-minute sales.”
That was somewhat apparent on Black Friday,Tavakoli added:
“Since most of our customers are hit-ting the mall on Black Friday,
we really do not get a bighit. Most of beauty business is done
through depart-ment stores rather than specialty beauty
boutiquestores like ours. Our biggest increase in sales [on
BlackFriday] was through our Internet sales.”
While fragrances traditionally perform well duringthe holiday
season, the skin care and color cosmeticscategories are gaining
strength for gift-giving. “Thewhole skin care category — especially
the sets — areseeing excellent sell-through,” said the unnamed
retail-er. “And in makeup — and the eye category in particular—
we’re also seeing strong sell-through. Eye shadowkits are doing
well, and there seems to be a resurgencein lipstick, as opposed to
lip gloss. Clinique’s ButterShine lipstick is doing especially
well, and their holidaycolor story has done particularly good
business.Lancôme mascaras are another standout. In general,kits or
items where there’s newness and novelty aredoing well.” Color and
skin care items from Shiseido,Clarins, Chanel, BeneFit and Bobbi
Brown also are per-forming very well, said the retailer.
“At Sephora, we offer many exclusive gift sets andunique
products across all beauty categories and ourbrand partners have
really stepped up with excitingmerchandise this season,” said Olum.
“Our exclusivesets from Bare Escentuals, Smashbox, Fusion Beautyand
T3 are doing extremely well. Products that can’t befound anywhere
else from Philosophy, Dior and GoSmile are also doing well this
holiday season.
“In makeup, our Lip category is being driven bysome great
lip-plumping and lip gloss gift sets. The LipFusion plumping set
from Fusion Beauty is a top seller,along with sets from City Lips
and Too Faced. Glosssets from Lorac, Dior and our own Sephora brand
alsohave been well received.
The Beauty Report
Keeping the Faith: Retailers Hop
WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 20056
Shoppers on the sellingfloor at Macy’s Thursday.
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“Bath sales usually don’t kick in until later in the season, but
weare very encouraged by the strong performance in these
categoriesthis early on, driven in part by gift sets from
Philosophy, L’Occitaneand our own Sephora label.”
Studio’s Coe-Hutshing also is seeing strength in high-end
skincare. “Luxury creams — such as Crème de la Mer, Taer
Icelandicand Freeze 24/7 — are becoming a great holiday gift,” she
said.
As far as fragrances go, Saks’ Oldham said bright spots on
thewomen’s side this fall have been Viktor & Rolf ’s
Flowerbomb, BondNo. 9, Estée Lauder’s Youth Dew Amber Nude, the Jo
Malone busi-ness, Creed and Miss Dior Cherie. Standouts on Saks’
men’s side in-clude Canali, Armani Code and Bulgari Aqua Pour
Homme. Oldhamadded, “John Varvatos and Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label
continue tobe strong.”
Belk’s has introduced 20 scents for this fall and standouts
in-clude Euphoria by Calvin Klein, Lovely Sarah Jessica Parker
andFantasy Britney Spears. On the men’s side, “Polo Black has
beenterrific and [Liz Claiborne Cosmetics’] Soul has done very well
forus,” said Pollack, who noted Armani Code and the designer’s
Acquadi Giò scents have been tremendous. Pollack added that both
clas-sic and recent entries have seen strength, including
TommyBahama fragrances, and Live Jennifer Lopez, Estée
Lauder’sPleasures, Donna Karan’s Cashmere Mist and Chanel’s
CocoMademoiselle and No.5.
The unnamed department store retailer named Lovely SarahJessica
Parker and Fantasy Britney Spears as two standout fra-grances, and
noted that other strong sellers include Calvin Klein’sEuphoria,
DKNY’s Be Delicious, Donna Karan’s Cashmere Mist anda good part of
Chanel’s fragrance portfolio, with Coco Mademoiselleespecially
strong. Estée Lauder’s Pleasures also is doing well, “es-pecially
with the addition of Pleasures Exotic.”
On the men’s side, the retailer observed that “L’Oréal seems
tohave the men’s side sewn up.” Among the standouts for men
areGiorgio Armani’s perennial bestseller, Acqua di Giò Pour
Homme,as well as Armani Code, Ralph Lauren’s Polo Black and Polo
Blueand Calvin Klein’s Obsession for Men.
Bergdorf ’s Burstell noted that a number of scents and
brandshave highlighted the retailer’s fragrance business this
season,which saw the introduction of five new scents and a number
of lineextensions. Standout performers include Creed’s Love in
White,Etro, L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Fleur d’Oranger, Guerlain,
CliveChristian, Jo Malone, Agraria, Santa Maria Novella and
Anthousa.
For Holt Renfrew’s Rozenwald, “Jo Malone was the leader of
thepack.” Thierry Mugler’s Angel assortment has been
particularlystrong, as well. Other highlights in women’s include
Prada’s fra-grance and Tom Ford’s Youth Dew Amber Nude for Lauder.
On themen’s side, standouts include Canali, Armani Code and Acqua
di Giò.
Donna Karan’s Essence also has been a bright spot,
because“people don’t want to smell like everyone else,” said
Rozenwald,who contended Armani Privé was experiencing success for
thesame reason — like Essence, Privé features four different
scents.Matthew Williamson’s scent has been a standout, Rozenwald
noted,adding she’s looking forward to the January or February
launch ofJean Paul Gaultier’s Power of Two masterbrand.
Sephora’s Olum noted, “The early read on fragrance suggests
astrong December. Our list of top sellers for the holiday season
sofar includes Pink Sugar, Stella McCartney, Philosophy’s Graceand
Prada. For holiday, we’ve teamed up with our brand partnersto
create Sephora’s most exciting gift set yet — our customFragrance
Gift for Her. This set includes nine samples of our top-selling
women’s fragrances to try, plus a gift voucher of equalvalue that
can be redeemed at any Sephora store for a full-sizebottle of any
one of the samples included. Gift sets from Dolce &Gabbana
Light Blue, DKNY Be Delicious and Burberry are alsodoing very well
so far.”
Fragrance standouts at Bloomingdale’s include NarcisoRodriguez
for Her, Alien by Thierry Mugler, Calvin Klein Euphoriaand Vera
Wang on the women’s side, and Ralph Lauren Polo Black,“the entire
house” of Cartier scents, Canali and Giorgio Armani’sCode on the
men’s side. Color and treatment also is trending strongfor the
holidays, Kreitzman said.
At Studio, a number of categories, including fragrances,
candles,accessories, sachets and fragrance diffusers, are “all
continuing astrong performance,” said Coe-Hutshing, with standout
scents in-cluding Nanadebary; L’Artisan Parfumeur Moodswings
five-fra-grance set, $110; Serge Lutens Cedre Fragrance; Molinard
Nirmala,and exclusive limited-edition dramming silver vials of our
signatureLiquid scents from Burn [Coe-Hutshing’s candle line] such
asHinoki Temple Incense.”
“This year, we have put a lot of effort in preparing for the
holi-days,” said Tavakoli. “We are anticipating increased sales
com-pared to last year. Beauty Collection specializes in specialty
fra-grances such as Bond No. 9, Creed and L’Artisan, and we have
seenincreased sales in our Creed fragrances. Usually during the
holi-days, our bath, body and candle categories outperform the rest
ofour personal care categories. We also see a big increase in
cosmet-ics mirrors and flat irons.”
WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005 7
WWD.COM
NEW YORK — Shiseido is planning forrapid growth this spring —
not just in itscore business, but also in an entirely newcategory.
The company that is synonymouswith women’s skin care is attempting
tohelp men with one of life’s most persistentand inescapable
problems: thinning hair.
In April, the brand will launch AdenogenHair Energizing Formula,
a product aimedat helping men retain their hair, which is al-ready
a top seller in Japan.
“We’ve had a great season and a greatyear,” said Heidi
Manheimer, president ofU.S. operations for Shiseido
Cosmetics(America) Ltd. Among the standouts, shenamed Future
Solution eye and lip productsand the brand’s Benefiance line.
“We’re up more than 7 percent year-to-date at both Federated and
Nordstrom, andwe’re seeing double-digit growth in someother doors,
including Sephora,” addedManheimer, who was recently named
chiefexecutive officer of Shiseido Cosmetics(America) Ltd.,
effective Jan. 1. “We’replanning to keep the momentum going intothe
spring.”
While Manheimer declined to commenton sales figures, industry
sources estimatedthat the Shiseido brand could do as much as$210
million in retail sales in the U.S. in2006. Sources estimate that
it will havedone about $200 million in retail by year-end 2005.
Manheimer expects Adenogen to be oneof the drivers behind growth
in 2006. Whilethe product won’t grow hair on a scalp that is
already bald, it is designed to encourage existinghair follicles to
produce thicker hair, Manheimer said — and it also will draw in a
largely un-tapped pool of consumers: aging men. Shiseido entered
the men’s business in the first half ofthis year.
Adenogen’s key ingredient is a bio-engineered version of
adenosine. Adenosine is a naturalcomponent of nucleic acid, which
is said to encourage the production of Fibroblast GrowthFactor 7
(FGF-7) — a protein that is a major component of hair growth, said
Manheimer.
In the U.S., Adenogen Hair Energizing Formula will be available
in about 200 doors, includingBarneys New York. It will retail for
$66 for 150 ml.
Several women’s products also are slated for spring launches.
Key among them is ShimmeringLipstick, intended to be a cross
between lipstick and lip gloss, noted Tomoko
Yamagishi-Dressler,vice president of marketing for Shiseido
Prestige Brands. The formula includes the
proprietaryUltra-Refractive Oil, an ingredient that is said to
combine the luster look of a gloss with thelonger wear time of a
traditional lipstick, as well as hydroxyapatite, which is intended
to concealrough lip surfaces and vertical lines. Six shades, each
priced at $22, will be offered, beginning inFebruary. A national ad
will break in March fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, and
upwardof 50,000 lipstick samples are slated to be distributed at
counter.
The brand’s best-selling Benefiance skin care line will get two
new products in February: PureRetinol Intensive Revitalizing Mask,
at $60 for four masks, and Concentrated Neck ContourTreatment, at
$48 for 50 ml. The revitalizing mask has potency equal to half a
bottle of the brand’santiaging serum — about 50 applications, said
Yamagishi-Dressler. The product includes pure liq-uid retinol,
vitamin C derivative, hesperidin (a compound derived from citrus
fruits that is said toenhance microcirculation) and ginseng. It is
intended as a 15-minute, once-a-week nighttimetreatment and will be
available in February.
Concentrated Neck Contour Treatment, also coming in February, is
intended for daily use.“The skin on the neck is not adhered to any
muscle, so it is prone to deep wrinkling, especially asyou age,”
said Yamagishi-Dressler. “This product forms a film that supports
skin, almost like acorset.” It does so with the proprietary Firm
Support Formula, which uses polymers to accom-plish that goal. The
neck product also uses the proprietary Anti-Photowrinkle System
withchlorella extract, said to reduce damage to the skin’s elastic
fibers.
The brand also will add a ninth stockkeeping unit, White Lucent
Brightening Toning Lotion, toits White Lucent line in March. The
new skin brightener, $44 for 150 ml., is intended to cool
andrefresh skin, and to visually reduce pore size on the face.
“Shiseido is the leader in whitening —it’s a category we have been
in since 1917 and one that has only gained popularity in the
U.S.,”said Manheimer. Sku’s in the line range from $30 to $115;
they are carried in about 250 U.S. de-partment and specialty store
doors, although that number will rise to 400 this spring.
Of the new toner, Manheimer noted that it is intended to be used
after cleansing and moisturiz-ing, and “seals the deal” by locking
in moisture to the skin. Ingredients include witch hazel ex-tract
and menthol, as well as the brand’s Spot Deacti-Complex, said
Yamagishi-Dressler. A nation-al print ad spotlighting the White
Lucent brand as a whole will break in April fashion, beauty
andlifestyle magazines, and about 50,000 samples will be
distributed at counter.
Color creator Tom Pécheux also has devised six new eye shadow
colors in shades such asgranite and gold. They will be sold,
beginning in February, as contrasting duos retailing for $27.The
formula, intended to be long-wearing, contains such ingredients as
3-D powder and Hydro-Wrap Vitalizing DE, a proprietary ingredient
said to moisturize eyelids and allow color to stayon longer.
— Julie Naughton
Shiseido Turns to Hair ProductTo Cultivate Its Profit Growth
e for LateYule
Shiseido’s new Benefiance neck cream.
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NEW YORK — The mass market holiday rush started early, thanks to
price-slashingdiscounts on high-ticket items, such as DVD players
and computers, which steeredconsumers straight to the electronics
department. While there’s a danger that thestampede will stop short
of the beauty department, some retailers are hoping for aruboff
effect that will benefit cosmetics.
One industry observer who thinks that any traffic swell will
bode well for beautyis Carrie Bonner Mellage, industry manager for
Kline & Co. She asserted that massretailers are off to a strong
start, getting more aggressiveearlier to beat last year’s
results.
Early promotions managed to bolster retail sales.The National
Retail Federation reported Novembersales increased 6.7 percent in
health and personal carestores from November 2004, and 7.1 percent
in generalmerchandise stores. NRF expects total holiday sales,which
includes the period of November throughDecember, to rise 6 percent
to $438.5 billion.
In terms of beauty sales, retailers expect this holi-day’s
results to be flat with 2004 sales. However, sincemany bought for a
flat year, retail buyers expect acleaner sell-through. One downside
of 2005, however,has been consumer interest in holding out for
bargains,which dig into overall profits of holiday merchandise.
Although board members of the National Associationof Chain Drug
Stores met last week to discuss pharmacyissues, during session
breaks, many chatted about theholiday season.
“The hallway chatter is that it is a robust selling sea-son,”
said Anthony Civello, chairman, president andchief executive
officer of Kerr Drug Inc., and chairmanof NACDS. He continued:
“Black Friday was good, butwe all made every effort to make it so,
such as openingearlier and offering hot specials….We are also
doingwell with gift cards. When I hear we are out of stock
al-ready, I know we are having a lot of movement. It is goodto hear
since we had been worried with all the talk ofthe gas crisis,” he
said during a press briefing.
Mark Griffin, president and ceo of Lewis Drugs, saidhis chain
has seen sales strength since Black Friday, aswell. He commented
that the nearly 10 inches of snow blan-keting South Dakota, where
Lewis stores are located, havespiked holiday spirit.
Still, many of the beauty sales in the mass market still are
transacted in the wan-ing days before Christmas, and this year,
Hanukkah, which begins on the heels ofChristmas. However,
true-to-form, Wal-Mart got in the game early and very
aggres-sively, influencing the whole season, said Griffin.
He added that in Lewis’ stores, Adidas men’s fragrances and
Stetson gift sets,such as Shania by Stetson and Stetson Black
fronted by Matthew McConaughey, areoff to a robust start.
Mary-kateandashley scentsand imported gift sets, sold at steep
discounts,are expected to appeal to Lewis’ younger shop-pers, while
prestige offerings like CliniqueHappy and Davidoff Cool Water will
likely appealto adult consumers, said Griffin.
That last-minute rush in the mass channel iswhy Jim Koeppl, the
newly minted president ofMarkwins North America, said it is still
too earlyto predict the strength of the holiday 2005 season.“We do
think we are pretty much on target and weare seeing good movement
with items like Bratz,”he said of the children’s beauty line.
Retailers, as usual, said Markwins is one of thedrivers of their
holiday sales. One buyer said shebought a closeout item from
Markwins that is sell-ing like “hot cakes” because it is a good
deal.“Everyone is waiting for the deals and they will bestarting
this week,” she added.
Another retailer agreed that the last-minute pushis vital for
the mass market. However, she has seenmomentum in men’s fragrance
with AXE. Also, as ex-pected by many buyers, Curious by Britney
Spears is the biggest gift a chain couldever want for Christmas.
“It is doing well and pulling fragrance up in general,” saidone
source.
Kathy Steirly, the divisional manager for Walgreens, said her
chain continues tobenefit from its strong heritage in fragrances.
“We have excellent beauty consult-ants and they are always
important for our fragrance sales,” she said. Steirly addedthat
value gift sets are moving well at Walgreens along with the
celebrity scents.But it isn’t all about fragrances at Walgreens.
“We are also doing well with colorand our exclusive brand IsaDora,
which is now in line and performing very well.”
Coty Beauty, which expects its Stetson fragrances and The
Healing GardenOrganics franchise to fuel brisk sales this season,
is collaborating with mass retail-ers to spiff up their
departments. “We have worked with retailers to create beauti-ful,
high-impact displays, which show off our brands and celebrity stars
with pres-tige-quality imagery,” said John Galantic, president of
Coty Beauty U.S.
The company anticipates its sell-through to be ahead of last
year, due to its“strong launch pipeline and major advertising
investment,” noted Galantic.
He added that diverted prestige fragrance gift sets and Asian
imports in thebath category present a challenge again this year for
branded manufacturers.
Galantic said that both Calgon and The Healing Garden’s holiday
sales are off to afast start and ahead of last year’s sales,
confirming that consumers prefer national-ly branded product.
He added that innovation, such as The Healing Garden Organics
Wild Honey,backed by national advertising, stimulates category
sales and gives the consumer abrand they can repurchase on a
regular basis.
Griffin of Lewis Drugs said the consumer is looking for both
no-name importsand branded gift sets. In his view the imports cater
tovalue shoppers, while brand names reinforce a retailers’own brand
equity.
Several electronic retailers, such as Drugstore.-com/Beauty.com,
QVC and Amazon.com, are looking to
cap off a successful year with an equally robust
holidayseason.
“This has been a great year for us overall, particu-larly in
beauty and home accessories,” said SarahMunson, general manager of
both Drugstore.com andBeauty.com.
A pre-holiday survey conducted by the e-tailer of1,000 consumers
nationwide revealed that “skin carefor a flawless complexion”
ranked number one onwish lists. Reflecting that survey finding, one
ofBeauty.com’s bestsellers is Clarisonic Skin Care
Brush, an accessory designed to deep clean and unclogpores.
“It’s more effective than a wash cloth,” said Munson,adding the
$195 item is also gentler than microdermabra-sion. In terms of
holiday collections, Fresh’s Memoirs of aGeisha gift sets are
selling briskly.
QVC had a stellar year, as well, attracting more pres-tige
brands to its mix and launching exclusives such asMally Beauty.
“QVC had a great year in beauty and that is certainlythe case
this holiday season,” said Allen Burke, directorof beauty and
cosmetics for QVC. “For us, it’s the brandsthat have been doing
great all year long that are having anexceptional holiday season.”
Several of those brands in-clude Bare Escentuals and Philosophy,
which on Dec. 4
aired QVC’s most successfully beauty show in history.Unlike its
bricks-and-mortar competitors, QVC wraps up its
holiday selling season by Dec. 18, which is the last day it can
guarantee delivery byChristmas. This year, QVC shifted some beauty
air time from October to November,to make more of an impact, which
proved to be a good move, noted Burke. It alsoran ads for QVC on
other cable channels and, for the first time, this fall mailed outa
catalogue to a select group of its beauty customers.
Amazon.com’s holiday sales have so far been spurred by Oprah
Winfrey’s “fa-vorite things” episode, which aired the Monday before
Thanksgiving, featuring
beauty items such as Lovely by Sara Jessica Parkerand Philosophy
skin care. “We saw sales of themspike the day they aired,” said
Maria Renz, the di-rector of Amazon.com’s Beauty and Health
&Personal Care stores. “It’s just fascinating the con-nection
and power she has with our audience.”For its part, Amazon is aiming
to drive holidaysales by offering its online customers gift
certifi-cates with purchases. Customers who spend $50get a $15
Amazon gift certificate; a $100 purchasergets a $30 gift
certificate. Also selling well onAmazon’s beauty store during the
Holiday season isZeno, the acne clearing device formerly only
avail-able at the dermatologist’s office. It costs $225 anduses
heat and light to zap away pimples in 24 hours.Britney Spears’
Fantasy is doing well, as is the“overall celebrity fragrance
trend,” Renz said. Lipitems, such as Lip Fusion, the $36 lip
plumper avail-able only at Sephora, are also popular. Pricy
profes-sional hair tools, such as the T3 Tourmaline blowdryer are
“taking off,” too.
In the midtier arena, The Estée Lauder Cos.’BeautyBank brands
are in the midst of their first full-fledged holiday program
atKohl’s Department Stores. BeautyBank has rolled out four brands
to more than 600Kohl’s stores, and this fall added gift sets to the
mix, said BeautyBank presidentJane Hudis. The gift sets range in
price from $12 to $45 each and include three ofits four brands,
namely American Beauty, Flirt and Grassroots.
Hudis reported that American Beauty’s Wonderful fragrance is
doing “excep-tional.” So much so that BeautyBank created a
Wonderful gift set, which includes a1.7-oz. perfume spray and a
3.4-oz body lotion for $45. Hudis said Kohl’s is support-ing its
new beauty brands through its store circulars, with in-store
signage and bycreating table-top displays.
“The Kohl’s consumer is still in the process of discovering
beauty,” said Hudis. This coming week will be pivotal for mass
retailers, which will aim to take ad-
vantage of a flurry of last-minute holiday shopping. “There does
seem to be some life in the fragrance department,” noted Wendy
Liebmann, president of WSL Strategic Retail. “But most retailers
are still holdingtheir breath.”
— Molly Prior and Faye Brookman, with contributions from Andrea
Nagel
Mass Retailers Bet on Last-Minute RushThe Beauty Report
WWD.COM
WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 20058
The Healing Garden Relax Therapy kit.
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Shania by Stetson Be Brilliant gift set.
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By Andrea Nagel
NEW YORK — Clairol executives acknowledge that accelerating the
pace of innova-tion in the hair color category will ensure sales
growth next year. That was the com-pany’s aim in 2005 with the
introduction of Nice ’n Easy Root Touch Up, along withnew
conditioning technology on the Nice ’n Easy and Herbal Essences
hair colorbrands, additions they said helped propel category sales
to its current 3 percentgain over last year.
For 2006, the division of Procter & Gamble plans to maintain
its product launchpace by continuing to address consumers’ unmet
hair color needs, which will bedemonstrated with innovations
designed to touch all four of its core brands: Nice ’nEasy, Natural
Instincts, Hydrience and Herbal Essences.
“The category over the past three months endingNovember is up 3
percent,” said Patrice Louvet, generalmanager of P&G Global
Retail Haircolor. “At least it is notdeclining anymore like it was
last year.”
Louvet added that Clairol’s new items are growing sales. “We are
driving growth with Root Touch Up by getting
salon users into the category. The way we think about it iswe
really want to convert hair color from a chore to a fre-quent
delight. That is our vision for this category and wewant Clairol to
lead that transformation.”
Retailers are open to any new launches in hair color,which they
unanimously agree is what drives the category.
One regional drugstore buyer said he is looking for-ward to
Clairol’s new lineup, which lands on shelves inMarch, specifically
Natural Instincts Shine Happy, a color-less hair treatment to
revive shine, and Hydrience’s baserestage, which takes packaging to
a more beauty image, andimplements Pantene Pro-V technology within
the three-stepcolor system. The buyer added that Clairol
discontinuedUltress and is supporting retailers with “markdown
funds tohelp get it out of the store since [P&G] is not taking
it back.”
Within the Nice ’n Easy franchise — the third best-selling hair
color brand withsales of $88.7 million, according to Information
Resources Inc., excluding Wal-Mart— are several new items, not just
for the company, but for the industry. Nice 'n Easyhas developed
the first Color Boosting Glaze designed to deposit color in
betweencolor jobs. The glaze, which is available in seven shades,
is meant to be used at thefirst sign of color fading or for an
extra color and shine boost. It will be merchan-dised in the hair
color aisle. It is different than other glazes on the market in
that itis a one-time use product that deposits color immediatley,
not over time. The five-minute, ammonia-free formula is meant for
colored, as well as natural, hair. Whilethe glaze will not cover
gray and is not recommended on highlighted manes, formu-las are
designed to be gentle with aloe vera, jojoba oil and vitamin E. The
glaze
lasts up to six shampoos and will cost $7.99. Also within Nice
’n Easy is GraySolution, a collection of 10 shades targeting
stubborn grays and those with morethan 50 percent gray hair. A
pretreatment in the box preps hair for color coverage,while
ColorSeal Conditioning technology aims to lock in color. Gray
Solution willretail for $8.99. Nice ’n Easy Root Touch Up, which
has garnered nearly $19 millionin sales this year, excluding
Wal-Mart, sports a new textured and curved brush, andfour shades
have been added to the range. Root Touch Up retails for $6.99. All
Nice’n Easy products will receive new packaging to help consumers
better find theirshade and tone. And, a weekly Conditioning Gloss
is included in boxes to help keep
hair smooth, shiny and manageable. Natural Instincts, the firm’s
semipermanent color brand that grew
almost 9 percent this year, has undergone a base restage with
newconditioning technology and 30 percent more damage
protection.Natural Instincts sales in 2006 could continue to grow
with the intro-duction of Shine Happy, a colorless hair treatment
Clairol likens to ashampoo, to revive dull hair color. Shine Happy
includes a weeklyColor Conditioning Treatment and will retail for
$7.99. “We think itwill bring something fresh and new to the
market,” said Louvet.
Hydrience, which realized nearly 9 percent sales decreas-es this
year, according to IRI, is getting a total makeover.
“On Hydrience, we are reinventing the brand, frankly,with new
packaging, new concept, new products and newmarketing support,”
Louvet said. And in another move,P&G is marrying existing
technology with one of its sisterbrands: Hydrience’s three-step
moisturizing color systemutilizes Pantene Pro-V technology in its
one-minute pre-treatment, to prep hair for color. Following the
color step, aPantene Pro-V Moisturizing After Color Therapy
treatmentis applied to lock in color. A six-week supply of this
treat-ment is included in boxes, which retails for $8.99.
Herbal Essences, Clairol’s youngest hair color brand,
istargeting its twentysomething customer with cheeky
mantras to express the experimentation factor in its
newestproducts. For example, ColorFlirt Mousse is being marketed as
“color you can datebut don’t have to marry.” The mousse, which
colors hair in just minutes, lasts up to12 shampoos and does not
contain ammonia or peroxide. Available in six shades, itwill retail
for $5.99. Three Herbal Essences Highlights kits hit shelves in
June, com-plete with a dual-chambered comb to make crafting
highlights easier, especiallyfrom root to tip. Each kit retails for
$3.99.
Louvet is expecting to see growth “across the portfolio” because
of these latestefforts, especially within Nice ’n Easy, which he
said is “growing at a very highpace, clearly more than double
digits. We expect that to continue for next year be-cause of the
Color Boosting Glaze and Gray Solutions and because of the
continuedpush on Root Touch Up, which is expanding into a wider
choice of shades.”
The Beauty Report
By Molly Prior
NEW YORK — A year into its sprawl across the U.S.,Rimmel London
plans to shake up the beauty estab-lishment and become the
number-two cosmeticsbrand in the mass channel.
It’s a feat the Coty-owned brand has already achievedin Europe,
where it is second only to Maybelline NewYork. And it’s a mission,
Coty executives say, that Rimmelexpects to complete within the next
several years.
Rimmel already ranks within the top-five cosmet-ics brands at
Wal-Mart, noted Rick Goldberg, vicepresident of color cosmetics for
Coty Beauty U.S.
Since expanding beyond Wal-Mart, where it madeits U.S. debut in
2000, Rimmel has set up shop in 1,300doors — ranging from regional
drugstores such asLongs Drug Stores and national chains, like
Target.
This spring, Rimmel will be rolled out to Kmartdoors as well.
“The goal is to add a major retailer [toits distribution] each
season,” said Goldberg.
Over the last four years, Rimmel’s U.S. sales havequadrupled,
growing from $25 million in 2001 to $100million this year. Its
global sales are growing at a fastclip as well, increasing from
$199 million in 2001 tomore than $300 million in 2005. Rimmel’s
continualgrowth spurt makes it the fastest growing brand inthe
entire Coty Inc. portfolio.
At a time when the leaders in the category are all try-ing to
expand their reach with new products, and in sev-eral cases, new
lines, Rimmel executives assert that theirbrand can carve out a
viable point of difference for retail-ers through its edgy, “made
in the U.K.” positioning.
“We want to stay the style leader,” said Goldberg.Stephen
Mormoris, senior vice president, global
marketing for Coty Beauty agreed, adding, “Rimmelis certainly an
important catalyst for creativity in the
mass market. It captures trends in a way that noother mass brand
does.”
To keep its image as a hip, London brand — frontedby
supermodel/Brit Kate Moss — Rimmel will roll outa new display wall
this spring. The display heralds thebrand’s British heritage with
photographs of London’squintessential red phone booth and
double-deckerbus, offset by black display headers.
Rimmel’s lip portfolio gets top billing on thedisplay, running
across the length of the fixtureat eye level. The placement was
prompted bythe success of Volume Boost lip color, whichwas launched
this fall, said Goldberg. The wallwill also spotlight Rimmel’s
spring launches,which include Vinyl Jelly Gloss Liner, VolumeFlash
Mascara and Recover IlluminatingAnti-Fatigue Foundation.
Rimmel created the Vinyl Jelly Gloss Linerto blend seamlessly
with its range of lip gloss-es. The gel-based liner will be
available innine shades for $4.25 each.
Volume Flash Mascara,available in black, brown andblue shades
for $6.68 each, adapt-ed its technology from Rimmel’s Volum’
EyesComb Mascara. However, it is applied with afour-cut brush
applicator. Its formula is de-signed to fuse wax with polymers to
delivermore product to the lashes, explained Goldberg.
The standout product of the line is RecoverIlluminating
Anti-Fatigue Foundation. The facemakeup leverages antiaging
technology and adapts itfor young women to create the antifatigue
formula,explained Goldberg. The formula relies on brighten-ing
ingredients, such as pearlized elements and lightdiffusers, along
with vitamins C and E. Recover will
be available in six shades for $8.03 each, slightlyhigher than
Rimmel’s average value price point.
The products will bow in February, with TV adssupporting both
Volume Flash Mascara and Recoverbeginning in January. Print ads
will break inFebruary books. After relying on print ads and its
Rimmel double-decker bus tour to buildawareness in the U.S.,
Rimmel launchedits first television ad campaign inJanuary. “As we
expand, we hope to con-tinue to reinvest in growth through ourad
support,” said Goldberg.
The display wall and advertising im-ages feature Moss, who has
been aspokesmodel for the brand for five years.Despite her recent
troubles with drugsand the media storm that followed,Rimmel
executives say they never consid-ered dropping the model. “Kate
Moss em-bodies the authentic underground Londonlook,” said
Mormoris, who added Moss hascontributed personal insights to
Rimmel’smarketing efforts. “Londoners and those
throughout the U.K. are very sympatheticto her personal
issues.”
As for how U.S. con-sumers view the fashion
icon, Coty’s corporate communications direc-tor Hitesh Patel
said: “Clearly, she’s showing self-disci-pline,” referring to her
rehabilitation. “She’s only shownher commitment and professionalism
to Rimmel.”
With a celebrity spokesmodel and steady productpipeline from
London in place, Rimmel has its sightson new markets, such as Asia.
“This is a brand thattranscends borders,” said Patel. “Its cool,
urban cul-ture fits many markets.”
Rimmel’s Edgy London Vibe Powers Global Expansion
Clairol Taps Shine to Grow ’06 Sales
WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 200510
PHOT
OS B
YRO
BERT
MIT
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Rimmel London’sspring selections.
WWD.COM
Clairol’s 2006 hair color lineup.
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WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005 11
The HBA Report WWD.COM
NEW YORK — The Art of Shaving is embarking on anaggressive
freestanding store-opening plan whilelaunching its most
sophisticated treatmentproduct to date, a night cream designed
toremedy ingrown hairs.
Eric Malka, a cofounder of the $25 mil-lion firm, began
outlining retail expansionplans around the time The Art of
Shavingopened a shop in Time Warner Center herenearly two years
ago.
Now, the company, which operates eightstores, plans to open its
50th unit by 2008.
Plans call for 10 openings next year to befollowed by 21 more
stores in 2007, at a rateof about two a month, and an additional 11
units in 2008.
The company has begun by opening three stores, inLos Angeles,
Atlanta and atthe Roosevelt Field Mall inGarden City, N.Y., this
fall.Next year, the firm plans toopen stores in confirmed
loca-tions like Denver, Dallas,Atlantic City, N.J., and
SanFrancisco. Still in negotiationsare leases for locations
inBoston, Houston, Boca Raton,Fla., and San Antonio.
The company operatesstores with and without barberservices; the
retail-only storeswill account for about 70 per-cent of
company-owned stores.About 65 percent of the firm’srevenues are
generated by its
wholesale business, a ratio Malka would like tosee at about
50-50 by next year.
Thanks to the freestanding storestrategy, Malka said he believes
thebusiness can be grown by 80 to 90percent next year.
Meanwhile, Ingrown Hair NightCream will be launched in
lateJanuary and then rolled out to thebrand’s full distribution
network of600 doors by March, including retail-ers like Barneys New
York, NeimanMarcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nord-strom and
Bloomingdale’s.
“There are 10 million men in the U.S. thatsuffer from ingrown
hairs,” said Malka. “They
are frustrated that there are few to no solu-tions out there for
them.”
The formulation employs meadowseedextract and white willow bark,
which con-tains naturally occurring salicilin to helpheal ingrown
hairs. In order to soften andmoisturize the skin, the product
usesAfrican shea butter and jojoba oil. The re-sults of a clinical
study indicate there was a92.6 percent reduction in the appearance
ofingrown hairs after six weeks of using theproduct. A 58.8 percent
reduction was seenafter two weeks.
The 1.7-oz. cream is priced at $40 andcould do first-year retail
sales of $1.3 million.
— Matthew W. Evans
NEW YORK — The spirit ofgiving filled the ballroom atthe
Waldorf-Astoria Tuesday,as beauty executives gatheredto raise funds
for Cancer andCareers at Cosmetic ExecutiveWomen Foundation’s
HolidayLuncheon and Auction.
The event also recognizedL’Oréal Paris for its work withthe
Ovarian Cancer ResearchFund. L’Oréal Paris presidentand general
manager CarolHamilton accepted the honor,telling the crowd of more
than1,000 that L’Oréal became in-volved with the OCRF eightyears
ago through Liz Tilberis,the former publisher of Har-per’s Bazaar
who served aspresident of the organizationuntil she lost her battle
withthe disease in 1999.
Since it joined the OCRF’smission, L’Oréal Paris hasraised $10
million for thecause. Because of researchfunded by the
organization, forwomen diagnosed with ovari-an cancer, the
prognosis haschanged from a “death sen-tence to a chronic
illness,”said Hamilton, adding L’Oréalwill continue its efforts on
theOCRF’s behalf until all womenwith the disease are cured.
The auction, cohosted byWNBC anchor Jane Hanson,raised nearly
$50,000 forCareers and Cancer.
The Art of Shaving Begins Retail Push
CEW Raises $50KFor Cancer Support
Ingrown HairNight Cream
PHOT
O BY
ROBE
RT J
ACOB
S
L’Oréal’s Carol Hamilton andCEW’s Carlotta Jacobson.
WISHING OUR RETAIL PARTNERS HAPPY HOLIDAYS AND GOD’S BLESSINGS
FROM THE INTERMARK USA TEAM.Directed Produced Executive Screenplay
Special Effects Sound Color Makeup
by: STEVEN FLATBERG by: ALOTTA EFFORT Producer: GRANT BERRY by:
LIN E. SEAL by: PLASTIQUE by: TIM E. LESS By: INNOVATION by:
STYLI-STYLENOW SHOWING IN A LOCATION NEAR YOU. Rated U for
“Unbelievable.”
W E ’ R E O N A S P E C I A L M I S S I O N … S T Y L I - S T Y
L E
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By Sara James
NEW YORK — Think you’ve gotten tired of the same six faces on
the cov-ers of the weekly tabloids? Well, guess what: they’ve taken
over themonthlies, too.
In the third installment of WWD’s recurring media feature, we
look atthe women who dominated newsstands in 2005. (The totals
below are basedon the major women’s monthlies and teen magazines,
and the two men’smagazines that have the most crossover with them,
Esquire and GQ.)
So who grabbed the most monthly magazine covers this year?
Formerteen queen Lindsay Lohan was on a major monthly every single
monththrough August, except for May. Her total was seven, including
Elle andW, making her the Jessica Simpson of 2005. (Simpson had
eight coverslast year.)
Few women over the age of 30 made this year’s list — but no one
canclaim it’s because women who have left their 20s behind can no
longer doteen magazines. Cameron Diaz and Jennifer Lopez, both on
the list, wereon the covers of Seventeen and Cosmogirl,
respectively, this year. One whodidn’t make the cut was Jennifer
Aniston, who avoided doing magazineinterviews until the end of 2005
and had only three covers, the same num-ber as model Kate Moss.
As for the trend toward giving covers to people who are simply
famousfor being famous, it might turn out to be a smart move for
the monthlies.Teen Vogue’s bestseller of the year was Nicole
Richie, according to aspokeswoman for the magazine.
— With contributions from Rachelle Robinett
SEVEN COVERS IN 2005Lindsay Lohan (Jane, Cosmogirl, Ellegirl, W,
Elle, Teen Vogue, Teen People).Last year: two.
SIX COVERS Jessica Alba (Cosmopolitan, GQ, Self, Marie Claire,
Seventeen, Jane). Last year: none.Mischa Barton (Marie Claire, Teen
People, Allure, Glamour, Cosmogirl,Ellegirl). Last year:
six.Jessica Simpson (Cosmogirl, Cosmopolitan, Glamour, GQ, Elle,
Seventeen,Teen People). Last year: eight.
FIVE COVERS Hilary Duff (Teen Vogue, Seventeen, Ellegirl, Jane,
Cosmogirl). Last year: five.Scarlett Johansson (Harper’s Bazaar,
Teen Vogue, Esquire, Allure,Cosmopolitan). Last year: two.Jennifer
Lopez (Vogue, Cosmogirl, Cosmopolitan, Elle, Glamour). Last year:
two.Ashlee Simpson (Allure, Cosmopolitan, Teen People, Cosmogirl,
TeenPeople). Last year: one.
FOUR COVERS Rachel Bilson (Ellegirl, Teen Vogue, Lucky,
Ellegirl). Last year: one.Cameron Diaz (Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan,
GQ, Seventeen). Last year: one.Paris Hilton (Jane, Seventeen,
Vanity Fair, Shop Etc.). Last year: one.Keira Knightley (Elle,
Esquire, Marie Claire, Vogue). Last year: two.Nicole Richie
(Cosmogirl, Teen Vogue, Jane, Seventeen). Last year: none.
Media/Advertising
12WWD.COM
WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005
EYE ON JANN: It looks like Jann Wenner will get his shot
atreality TV stardom. According to two Wenner Media sources,the
Rolling Stone founder has signed a deal with MTV to starin an
“Apprentice”-type reality show about aspiring musicjournalists. The
New York Post reported in July that Wennerwas in early talks with
the network, but the long silence sincethen made it seem as if the
project was stalled. One sourcesaid the show will begin production
in the spring, with plansto air it next fall. A Wenner Media
spokesman declined tocomment Thursday, and an MTV spokesman did not
returncalls. — Jeff Bercovici
LIVING ON: Budget Living is on the block. OK, so that’s
notexactly news. (To date, Meredith, Hachette Filipacchi,American
Media, Rodale, Hearst and Newsweek — which
previously bought Budget Travel from Budget Living founderDon
Welsh — are said to have all looked at the title andpassed.) But
now Welsh seems to be becoming a moremotivated seller, according to
sources with ties to BudgetLiving. The magazine did not return
calls for comment.Meanwhile, staff turnover continues to be an
issue for thetitle, which just went monthly this fall. Photo
director GregGarry is leaving for a job at Weekend, and Real Simple
hashired away Budget Living’s art director Sung Choi and itsdeputy
editor, Alexa Yablonski, a Time Inc. spokeswomanconfirmed. — Sara
James
NO SIGNAL: If the news that Radar magazine was folding afterjust
three issues came as a surprise, it was largely because ithad been
widely reported that Mort Zuckerman had pledged$25 million in
funding. How, media watchers wondered, coulda small start-up have
burned through so much money so fast?
Easy: They never had it to begin with. “The
agreementspecifically limited the financing to $10 million,”
saidZuckerman Thursday, a day after Radar’s staff found out
about the shutdown. “I don’t know where that [$25 millionfigure]
came from.”
In fact, Zuckerman said he will have spent a total of $12million
by the time he is through with Radar, and would havebeen prepared
to spend more had the prospects seemedbrighter, particularly on the
ad front. “The issue was we couldnot foresee the proverbial light
at the end of the tunnel,”Zuckerman said.
Of course, some might say he wasn’t looking hard enough.“Mort
always gets cold feet,” said one longtime associate. “Heshould have
gotten New York magazine, but he’s so obsessedwith reducing his
downside risk that he lost it.” (The sourcewas referring to the
2003 auction in which Bruce Wassersteinended up outbidding a
consortium led by Zuckerman.)
The New York Daily News owner is apparently less aversein his
recreational pursuits. As Radar’s staff collectsseverance and
starts looking for other jobs, Zuckerman isheading off on a ski
vacation — despite having broken hiscollarbone twice in falls. He
blamed the spills on whiteoutconditions, saying, “I am a good
skier.” — J.B.
MEMO PAD
The Overexposure Index:
Covers Edition
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14 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005
By Evan Clark
WASHINGTON — Retail prices forwomen’s apparel rose a
seasonallyadjusted 1.6 percent in November,but were still 1.5
percent belowyear-ago levels, according to theLabor Department’s
ConsumerPrice Index, released Thursday.
In the broader economy, re-treating energy prices led to a0.6
percent drop in retail pricesfor all goods and services lastmonth,
the sharpest declinesince 1949. Excluding energyand food items, a
closelywatched measure of inflation,prices inched up 0.2
percent.
Carl Steidtmann, chief econ-omist at Deloitte Research,
saidthat, while the overall economyis “pretty strong,” there is
aslate of issues that might holdback the consumer over thecoming
months. These include arise in energy prices, increasingdebt levels
and changes in cred-it card laws requiring higherminimum
payments.
“Probably the biggest un-known and the one that can haveat least
the biggest short-term im-pact is energy prices,” he said.
Ken Goldstein, an economist at
the Conference Board, agreed con-sumers could tighten up,
especial-ly as they’re paying more not onlyto heat their homes but
also to filltheir carts at the grocery store.
“Don’t expect the consumerto be out there spending a wholelot of
money in January,February or March on anythingbut keeping the house
warm,”said Goldstein. “Don’t expect allthose women to be running
intostores to buy clothing…it’s notgoing to be that great a
season.”
Apparel prices have beentrending down for some timeand are lower
in absolute termsthan they were a decade ago,said Goldstein.
“It’s a bargain to begin withand if you have to discount
abargain, what’s that telling youabout the market for
appareloverall?” he said.
The steepest price decreaseswithin the women’s apparel cate-gory
came in outerwear, whichsaw a 1.4 percent drop inNovember and a 3.9
percent de-crease against a year ago. Suitsand separate prices were
on theupswing for the month, rising 2.3percent, though that level
was still3.1 percent below a year earlier.
Apparel Prices Rise in Nov.By Luisa Zargani
MILAN — A new five-year license with Italy’sCiwifurs will
provide Roberto Cavalli with afull-fledged fur collection under the
design-er’s signature brand, starting with the pre-fall 2006
season.
The collection, which will be made up of 50designs, will be
available in stores next June.Animal prints and flamboyant furs are
corner-stones of Cavalli’s fashion and the expression ofhis passion
for nature, which last year spurredhim to support the “Wild:
Fashion Untamed” ex-hibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum.
“This license will allow me to enrich myready-to-wear
collection, which has alwaysbeen peppered with fur details and a
few furpieces,” said Cavalli. “Furs are part of myworld and
Ciwifurs’ technique and technologyare uniquely superior. I think
Ciwifurs [chiefexecutive officer Gianni Castiglioni] was in-trigued
by my style as the company experi-ments continuously to develop new
designs.”
Cavalli said he is confident Ciwifurs willnever make his designs
“banal or too over thetop.” Among the highlights, Cavalli
mentioneda chinchilla fur printed with a tiger-skin ef-fect and a
large selection of vests and stoles.
“Fur vests are a must for next fall,” he said. Cavalli’s furs
had been produced in-house.“We believe the Roberto Cavalli
brand
has still ample potential to develop interna-tionally,” said a
Ciwifurs spokesman. “Itsstrong style and identity is a
stimulatingchallenge for us.”
Ciwifurs also works with Fendi, Prada, JilSander, Valentino,
Dior, Louis Vuitton andMarni. Both Cavalli and Ciwifurs declined
toreveal sales projections for the new collection.
Cavalli Inks Fur Deal With Ciwifurs
By Vicki Rothrock
HONG KONG — U.S. TradeRepresentative Rob Portman onThursday
offered some of theworld’s poorest countries addi-tional access to
the Americanmarket in the areas of cotton,apparel and textiles as
part ofan effort to push World TradeOrganization talks forward.
The moves gave apparel andtextile issues some time in
thespotlight, but the larger free-trade agenda remained dead-locked
over agriculture. The six-day talks of trade ministers is toend
Sunday.
Portman said the U.S. waswilling to give cotton fromBenin, Mali,
Burkina Faso andChad, collectively known as theC4 (Cotton 4
Countries), duty-free access. “We are hopeful tohave some kind of
resolutionthis week,” he said.
The four West African nationsplayed a key role in the collapseof
the last major WTO meeting inCancún, Mexico, two years ago.
A senior U.S. trade officialsaid the commitment would givethe
West African nations accessto the U.S. market faster than abroader
agreement.
Woods Eastland, chairman ofthe National Cotton Council,
ex-pressed concern over the pro-posal since it is unclear if
othermajor cotton-producing coun-tries, such as China and
India,would respond in kind.
“This appears to be unilater-al action by the U.S. in what
should be multilateral negotia-tions,” Eastland said in a
state-ment. “If improved market ac-cess for cotton produced in
thetruly least developed countrieswill provide meaningful eco-nomic
gains, then all cotton-im-porting countries should be ex-pected to
match the reportedU.S. proposal.”
The European Commissionsaid the U.S. plan was a “step inthe
right direction, but it is clearmore needs to be done.”
The EU and the U.S. havebeen at odds over how much thedeveloped
world should cut do-mestic farm subsidies in thecurrent talks,
known as theDoha Round.
The U.S. also has signaled awillingness to extend duty-freeand
quota-free treatment togoods from the WTO’s 32 leastdeveloped
countries, with someexceptions, such as apparel andtextiles from
Bangladesh andCambodia.
“Last year, Bangladesh im-ports to the United States were$2.5
billion [in] textiles and ap-parel, that’s a 20 percent in-crease,”
Portman said.
He added that not all of thosegoods from Bangladesh
wouldnecessarily get duty-free access.
“In some of those cases, it’sgoing to be very, very difficult
forme to make the argument whenobviously Bangladesh is incredi-bly
competitive,” Portman said.
Bangladesh gets two-thirds ofall of its cotton fabric at
subsi-dized rates from China and is,
therefore, able to undercutother countries that might
havespecial relationships and pref-erential treatment from theU.S.,
said Auggie Tantillo, exec-utive director of the
AmericanManufacturing Trade ActionCoalition.
Once a certain group is givenpreferential treatment, othersare
going to expect it, as well, hesaid. “Eventually, people aregoing
to say, ‘I’m not going to liveby some structured system madeby
bureaucrats in Geneva.’”
Julia Hughes, vice presidentof international trade and
gov-ernment relations for theUnited States Association ofImporters
of Textiles andApparel, said it appearedPortman was
excludingBangladesh and Cambodia fromdesignation as least
developedcountries. There are very fewareas in which these
countriesare competitive, she said,adding it would be “a real
disap-pointment to say the LDCs aretoo successful to get aid.”
There also has been somemovement on efforts to strike upseparate
negotiations to coverthe apparel and textiles sector.
Turkey’s state minister incharge of foreign trade and cus-toms,
Kürsad Tüzmen, said hiscountry believes “a sectoral ap-proach
leading to harmonizationof tariffs by all members would bethe most
appropriate way to gen-erate new market opportunities.”
— With contributions fromEvan Clark, Washington
U.S. Makes Cotton ConcessionTo C4 Countries at Doha Talks
NEW YORK — The Estée LauderCos. is expected to announcetoday
that Maureen Case, cur-rently president of the BobbiBrown Worldwide
division, willbe named president of the LaMer and Jo Malone
brands,while continuing to serve aspresident of Bobbi Brown.
This follows the announce-ment on Dec. 3 that LynneGreene,
formerly president ofLauder’s specialty store group— which includes
these brandsand Prescriptives — will takeover as president of
Lauder’sClinique division in January.Case’s responsibilities will
notinclude Prescriptives. The com-pany declined to say who
wouldhead up Prescriptives, but saidan announcement is
expectedearly next year.
Case will continue to reportto Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne,the
group president at Lauderwho oversees these brands. Herappointment
is effective Jan.1.
“Maureen Case is an excep-tional prestige brand builder
andcreative thinker who truly under-stands the nuances of
culturalvalues around the world,” statedBousquet-Chavanne. “Just as
im-portant, she has a unique set ofinterpersonal skills that
allowher to achieve results with a col-laborative style. Her strong
rela-tionships with our retail partnersworldwide will allow her to
cata-pult the brands to the next level.”
Case, a Lauder veteran,joined the company in 1975 as amember of
the finance depart-ment and also served as region-al finance
manager for the trav-el retail group before becomingexecutive
director of marketing,travel retailing, for Estée
Lauder International in 1989.She was promoted to vice presi-dent
of marketing for travel re-tailing in 1995. In 1996, she leftto
become senior vice presidentand general merchandisingmanager for
World Duty Free,the duty-free retailer. She re-turned to Lauder in
1999 as vicepresident and general managerof Bobbi Brown’s
internationalbusiness before being namedgeneral manager of the
brand inMarch 2002. She was namedpresident of Bobbi Brown
inSeptember 2003.
Since taking over her role ashead of Bobbi Brown, Case
hasidentified and implementednew channels of distribution forthe
brand, including the brand’srecent entry into China.
“I’m honored and thrilledabout these brands — they'reone of a
kind,” Case stated. “Ifeel we’ve just scratched thesurface of their
full potential.”
— Julie Naughton
Lauder’s Case Tapped to HeadLa Mer and Jo Malone Brands
WWD.COM
Maureen Case
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15WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2005
Purchasing AgentCarol’s Daughter is seeking a highlymotivated
individual with 1 - 5 yearspurchasing experience in the cosmetics
/packaging & beauty field, preferablywith a college degree. The
ideal candidateshould have great inter-personal andcommunication
skills. Please Fax orE-mail all resumes (as a MicrosoftWord
attachment) to Alix Baudin at:718-857-1910 /
[email protected]
57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft.Soho Penthouse live / work
skylightsBryant Park Duplex - All Great DealsPrime Manhattan Jon
212-268-8043
For Space in Garment Center
Helmsley-Spear, Inc.212-880-0414
Showrooms & LoftsBWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS
Great ’New’ Office Space AvailADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500
39th Street & B’way, 1600 sq/ft +/- 3 Offices, Showroom,
ReceptionistArea w/ furniture, 4 large closets.
1-2 yr. sub-lease w/elevator.Fax inquiry to (212) 921-0541
PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS
All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.Call Sherry
212-719-0622.
PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS
Full service shop to the trade.Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.
SAMPLE SALERandi Rahm,
Red Carpet Designer to the Stars!Up to 75% off !
To be a star, you must dress like a star!Walk-ins welcome or
Schedule an
appointment to get priority treatment!Friday, December 16, 2005
10am- 5pmMonday, December 19, 2005 10am - 5pm
Call: 212-869-2296
Admin Since 1967
W-I-N-S-T-O-NAPPAREL STAFFING
DESIGN * SALES * MERCHADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION
(212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437
Designer AssistantDesigner collection seeks creative,detail
oriented team player to assistEvening designer in all aspects of
linedevelopment. Computer literacy is amust.
Please fax resume at: 212 563 6215
Designer
BETTER SPORTSWEARFast paced womens sportswear co. lookingfor
creative designer at least 4 yrs exp,organized, self starter &
detail oriented.Candidate needs to be able to managedesign staff
and a team player.
Pls fax resume - att: sc 212 768 7651
Order Entry/InvoicingApparel manufacturer seeks orderentry and
invoicing individual. 2 yearsindustry experience required.
Fax resume to: (212) 382-3623
Prod PatternmakerAnna Sui
5+ yrs. Skilled in draping, fitting, tech.accuracy from sample
to productionprototype.
Fax res and sal req to (212)768-3051
Production CoordinatorApparel mfg seeks Coord fluent
inTurkish/English. Send resume only:SGA (USA) Inc., 570 7 Ave
#2100, NY,NY 10018
Production /Merchandising
Leading tween cosmetics companyseeks a Production Manager with
aminimum of two years experience toact as liaison w/
design/sales/factories.Other responsibilities include ordertracking
and coordination overseasimport/export. The ideal candidate willbe
a team player, w/strong organiza-tional and follow up skills. We
offer agreat work environment with excellentopportunities for
growth.
Please e-mail resume to:[email protected]
LADIES ASSISTANTTECHNICAL DESIGNERLeading ladies outerwearco.
looking for highly organ-ized and detailed individualw/1-3 years
exp. in techni-cal design. Must have greatverbal and written
communi-cation skills. Exp w/ prepar-ing tech. packs to
overseasfactories + pre-productionfittings.
Ladies AssociateDesigner
Designer outerwear co.seeking design assistant w/2-4 yrs exp.
Must be highlyorganized, detailed, able toprovide technical
sketches &specs to overseas factories.Must be MAC
literate.Please e-mail all resumes to:[email protected]
Production Person KnitsExp’d person needed for domestic/import
knit co. Resp. include: Produc-tion orders, fabric and trim
sourcingand purchasing; production cut & sewtracking, lab dip
approvals, mainte-nance of cost sheets, all pre-production&
follow-up till delivery. Fax resume to:
212-382-2549
Retail Management
Lester’sJr/Contemporary Dept. Mgr.
Do you ’get’ the trendy Jr/Contemp re-tail bus? Do you have at
least 2 yrsexp.in Retail Mgmt? We’re seeking anindividual for our
Roslyn location whoexcels in cust service, sales, m’dsing,and ops
and is excited and enthusias-tic about this business. Join a
greatworking environment, with growthoppt’y, top salary, benefits,
& incentiveplan. email us [email protected] fax
to718-627-39