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Anguilla Beyond the Beach: 3000 Years of Island Heritage By Lillian Azevedo
55
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Page 1: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

By Lillian Azevedo

2

The One-Page History of Anguilla

By Lillian Azevedo

Copyrightcopy2012

All rights reserved no part of this publication The One-Page History may be reproduced

stored in a retrieval system transmitted in any form or by any means electronic mechanical

photocopying recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the author

Lillian Azevedo

3

Acknowledgements 4

Timeline of Anguilla 5

History 6

Anguilla before Columbus 7

Fountain Cavern 8

Settling Anguilla 9

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution 10

The 1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack 11

Piracy 12

Smuggling 13

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay 14

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion 15

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla 16

The Anguilla Revolution 17

Plantations 18

The Planterrsquos House 19

Wallblake House 20

Building a Plantation 21

Life on a Plantation Planters 22

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants 23

Fresh Water ndash Anguillarsquos Staff of Life 24

Slavery on Anguilla 25

Life in the 1800s 26

Life in the 1900s 27

The Sea 28

Maritime Heritage 29

Shipwrecks 30

Artificial Reefs 31

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla 32

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo 33

Migration and Santo Domingo 34

The Warspite 35

Boat Racing 36

Off Island Cays 37

Industries 38

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950 39

Sugar Production c1730-1800 40

Salt Production 1600s-1983 41

Mining 1860-1890 42

Fishing 43

Boatbuilding 44

Tourism 45

Natural History 46

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate) 47

Hurricane Donna 48

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens 49

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo 50

Exploring Anguilla and Additional Resources 51

Introduction to Anguilla Heritage Trail 52

Heritage Trail Map 53

Additional Reading and On-line Resources 54

Table of Contents

4

Forward

On behalf of the Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society it is with

great pleasure that I write the foreword to this book The One-Page History of

Anguilla I must begin by complimenting Lillian Azevedo on this great

publication

This book is a valuable addition to the growing compendium of books on

Anguillarsquos history From her background in cultural anthropology and

archaeology and as a diligent researcher Lilli has compiled a text that

touches on all the significant periods of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural

history

The book will be a valuable resource for those involved in promoting

heritage tourism While it came out of Lillirsquos involvement with the Anguilla

Heritage Trail Project this book will have a much broader appeal

It is an interesting and uncomplicated book giving a well researched and

factual account of Anguillarsquos history As such it will be a useful teaching

resource for lower secondary students While the important historical events

are documented the book also expounds on the social economic and

cultural environment in which these events took place and as such is an ideal

social studies text It is also an easy read for those who simply need a quick

overview of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural history

The liberal use of pictures and drawings means it can grab the imagination

and hold the attention of children of all ages It is a must have for all

Anguillian homes and all those visitors interested in taking back a

meaningful souvenir of their visit

Kenn Banks OBE

President

Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society

Above Anguilla is a 34mi2 island located in the Lesser Antilles

Frontispiece Historic Wallblake House photo co Steve Garlick

5

Timeline of Anguilla

2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla

1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo

1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter

1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children

1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco

1698 Spanish and French pirates attack

1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla

1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin

1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French

1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the

Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded

1807 Prohibition of slave trade

18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts

Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

1834 Slavery is abolished

1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living

1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship

1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish

1967 REVOLUTION

January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert

July 11th Referendum in favour of secession

December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year

1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately

March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident

September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers

1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London

1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory

6

History

7

Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered

by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts

from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers

were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use

pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials

including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were

imported complete andor crafted locally

Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla

together with pottery forms and the development of

chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these

people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)

Trade

They imported raw materials including volcanic stones

from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis

which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles

Spirituality

Believing that humans originated from caves and the

world was divided into three spheres (caves where

humans came from subterranean waters where the

ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they

carved and painted images of their deities including

Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the

rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved

examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)

and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)

What they ate

The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition

to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America

Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as

flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared

from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest

indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals

when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians

rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They

fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna

Where did they go

The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla

date from the 1500s By the time the English

created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had

either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery

in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely

they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground

and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked

natural defences to common European ailments

Diseases including influenza measles and

typhoid devastated populations and there is no

evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla

when it was discovered by Europeans

Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)

(AAHS Collection)

Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall

Anguilla before Columbus

Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)

Zemi

excavated on

Anguilla

(AAHS)

8

Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger

What is the Fountain

The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two

freshwater pools and

is a natural habitat for

bats and other species

Carved and painted

onto the cavernrsquos

stalactites are

Amerindian glyphs

and carvings

Location

While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and

archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial

centre there were several nearby villages including

a large settlement on Shoal Bay East

Amerindian Beliefs

Caves were ideologically important to the Taino

who believed that all humankind originated from

a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept

inside during the day and came out as bats during

the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla

archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a

dozen petroglyphs

The largest and most impressive by far was a

larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of

the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti

Translated from the Arawak language the name

roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the

sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According

to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the

goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden

years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th

Century According to the traditional view two

forces contributed to the decline and depopulation

of Anguilla and the region in general From the

south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians

expanded into the region from about AD1200 and

at the end of the 15th-century diseases were

introduced into the region by European explorers

By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from

Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few

remaining Amerindians in the region

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain Cavern

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 2: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

2

The One-Page History of Anguilla

By Lillian Azevedo

Copyrightcopy2012

All rights reserved no part of this publication The One-Page History may be reproduced

stored in a retrieval system transmitted in any form or by any means electronic mechanical

photocopying recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the author

Lillian Azevedo

3

Acknowledgements 4

Timeline of Anguilla 5

History 6

Anguilla before Columbus 7

Fountain Cavern 8

Settling Anguilla 9

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution 10

The 1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack 11

Piracy 12

Smuggling 13

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay 14

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion 15

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla 16

The Anguilla Revolution 17

Plantations 18

The Planterrsquos House 19

Wallblake House 20

Building a Plantation 21

Life on a Plantation Planters 22

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants 23

Fresh Water ndash Anguillarsquos Staff of Life 24

Slavery on Anguilla 25

Life in the 1800s 26

Life in the 1900s 27

The Sea 28

Maritime Heritage 29

Shipwrecks 30

Artificial Reefs 31

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla 32

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo 33

Migration and Santo Domingo 34

The Warspite 35

Boat Racing 36

Off Island Cays 37

Industries 38

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950 39

Sugar Production c1730-1800 40

Salt Production 1600s-1983 41

Mining 1860-1890 42

Fishing 43

Boatbuilding 44

Tourism 45

Natural History 46

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate) 47

Hurricane Donna 48

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens 49

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo 50

Exploring Anguilla and Additional Resources 51

Introduction to Anguilla Heritage Trail 52

Heritage Trail Map 53

Additional Reading and On-line Resources 54

Table of Contents

4

Forward

On behalf of the Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society it is with

great pleasure that I write the foreword to this book The One-Page History of

Anguilla I must begin by complimenting Lillian Azevedo on this great

publication

This book is a valuable addition to the growing compendium of books on

Anguillarsquos history From her background in cultural anthropology and

archaeology and as a diligent researcher Lilli has compiled a text that

touches on all the significant periods of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural

history

The book will be a valuable resource for those involved in promoting

heritage tourism While it came out of Lillirsquos involvement with the Anguilla

Heritage Trail Project this book will have a much broader appeal

It is an interesting and uncomplicated book giving a well researched and

factual account of Anguillarsquos history As such it will be a useful teaching

resource for lower secondary students While the important historical events

are documented the book also expounds on the social economic and

cultural environment in which these events took place and as such is an ideal

social studies text It is also an easy read for those who simply need a quick

overview of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural history

The liberal use of pictures and drawings means it can grab the imagination

and hold the attention of children of all ages It is a must have for all

Anguillian homes and all those visitors interested in taking back a

meaningful souvenir of their visit

Kenn Banks OBE

President

Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society

Above Anguilla is a 34mi2 island located in the Lesser Antilles

Frontispiece Historic Wallblake House photo co Steve Garlick

5

Timeline of Anguilla

2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla

1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo

1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter

1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children

1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco

1698 Spanish and French pirates attack

1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla

1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin

1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French

1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the

Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded

1807 Prohibition of slave trade

18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts

Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

1834 Slavery is abolished

1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living

1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship

1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish

1967 REVOLUTION

January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert

July 11th Referendum in favour of secession

December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year

1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately

March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident

September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers

1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London

1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory

6

History

7

Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered

by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts

from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers

were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use

pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials

including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were

imported complete andor crafted locally

Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla

together with pottery forms and the development of

chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these

people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)

Trade

They imported raw materials including volcanic stones

from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis

which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles

Spirituality

Believing that humans originated from caves and the

world was divided into three spheres (caves where

humans came from subterranean waters where the

ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they

carved and painted images of their deities including

Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the

rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved

examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)

and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)

What they ate

The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition

to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America

Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as

flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared

from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest

indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals

when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians

rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They

fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna

Where did they go

The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla

date from the 1500s By the time the English

created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had

either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery

in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely

they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground

and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked

natural defences to common European ailments

Diseases including influenza measles and

typhoid devastated populations and there is no

evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla

when it was discovered by Europeans

Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)

(AAHS Collection)

Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall

Anguilla before Columbus

Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)

Zemi

excavated on

Anguilla

(AAHS)

8

Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger

What is the Fountain

The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two

freshwater pools and

is a natural habitat for

bats and other species

Carved and painted

onto the cavernrsquos

stalactites are

Amerindian glyphs

and carvings

Location

While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and

archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial

centre there were several nearby villages including

a large settlement on Shoal Bay East

Amerindian Beliefs

Caves were ideologically important to the Taino

who believed that all humankind originated from

a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept

inside during the day and came out as bats during

the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla

archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a

dozen petroglyphs

The largest and most impressive by far was a

larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of

the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti

Translated from the Arawak language the name

roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the

sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According

to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the

goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden

years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th

Century According to the traditional view two

forces contributed to the decline and depopulation

of Anguilla and the region in general From the

south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians

expanded into the region from about AD1200 and

at the end of the 15th-century diseases were

introduced into the region by European explorers

By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from

Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few

remaining Amerindians in the region

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain Cavern

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 3: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

3

Acknowledgements 4

Timeline of Anguilla 5

History 6

Anguilla before Columbus 7

Fountain Cavern 8

Settling Anguilla 9

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution 10

The 1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack 11

Piracy 12

Smuggling 13

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay 14

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion 15

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla 16

The Anguilla Revolution 17

Plantations 18

The Planterrsquos House 19

Wallblake House 20

Building a Plantation 21

Life on a Plantation Planters 22

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants 23

Fresh Water ndash Anguillarsquos Staff of Life 24

Slavery on Anguilla 25

Life in the 1800s 26

Life in the 1900s 27

The Sea 28

Maritime Heritage 29

Shipwrecks 30

Artificial Reefs 31

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla 32

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo 33

Migration and Santo Domingo 34

The Warspite 35

Boat Racing 36

Off Island Cays 37

Industries 38

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950 39

Sugar Production c1730-1800 40

Salt Production 1600s-1983 41

Mining 1860-1890 42

Fishing 43

Boatbuilding 44

Tourism 45

Natural History 46

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate) 47

Hurricane Donna 48

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens 49

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo 50

Exploring Anguilla and Additional Resources 51

Introduction to Anguilla Heritage Trail 52

Heritage Trail Map 53

Additional Reading and On-line Resources 54

Table of Contents

4

Forward

On behalf of the Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society it is with

great pleasure that I write the foreword to this book The One-Page History of

Anguilla I must begin by complimenting Lillian Azevedo on this great

publication

This book is a valuable addition to the growing compendium of books on

Anguillarsquos history From her background in cultural anthropology and

archaeology and as a diligent researcher Lilli has compiled a text that

touches on all the significant periods of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural

history

The book will be a valuable resource for those involved in promoting

heritage tourism While it came out of Lillirsquos involvement with the Anguilla

Heritage Trail Project this book will have a much broader appeal

It is an interesting and uncomplicated book giving a well researched and

factual account of Anguillarsquos history As such it will be a useful teaching

resource for lower secondary students While the important historical events

are documented the book also expounds on the social economic and

cultural environment in which these events took place and as such is an ideal

social studies text It is also an easy read for those who simply need a quick

overview of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural history

The liberal use of pictures and drawings means it can grab the imagination

and hold the attention of children of all ages It is a must have for all

Anguillian homes and all those visitors interested in taking back a

meaningful souvenir of their visit

Kenn Banks OBE

President

Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society

Above Anguilla is a 34mi2 island located in the Lesser Antilles

Frontispiece Historic Wallblake House photo co Steve Garlick

5

Timeline of Anguilla

2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla

1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo

1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter

1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children

1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco

1698 Spanish and French pirates attack

1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla

1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin

1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French

1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the

Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded

1807 Prohibition of slave trade

18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts

Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

1834 Slavery is abolished

1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living

1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship

1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish

1967 REVOLUTION

January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert

July 11th Referendum in favour of secession

December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year

1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately

March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident

September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers

1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London

1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory

6

History

7

Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered

by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts

from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers

were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use

pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials

including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were

imported complete andor crafted locally

Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla

together with pottery forms and the development of

chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these

people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)

Trade

They imported raw materials including volcanic stones

from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis

which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles

Spirituality

Believing that humans originated from caves and the

world was divided into three spheres (caves where

humans came from subterranean waters where the

ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they

carved and painted images of their deities including

Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the

rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved

examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)

and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)

What they ate

The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition

to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America

Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as

flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared

from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest

indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals

when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians

rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They

fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna

Where did they go

The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla

date from the 1500s By the time the English

created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had

either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery

in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely

they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground

and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked

natural defences to common European ailments

Diseases including influenza measles and

typhoid devastated populations and there is no

evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla

when it was discovered by Europeans

Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)

(AAHS Collection)

Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall

Anguilla before Columbus

Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)

Zemi

excavated on

Anguilla

(AAHS)

8

Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger

What is the Fountain

The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two

freshwater pools and

is a natural habitat for

bats and other species

Carved and painted

onto the cavernrsquos

stalactites are

Amerindian glyphs

and carvings

Location

While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and

archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial

centre there were several nearby villages including

a large settlement on Shoal Bay East

Amerindian Beliefs

Caves were ideologically important to the Taino

who believed that all humankind originated from

a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept

inside during the day and came out as bats during

the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla

archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a

dozen petroglyphs

The largest and most impressive by far was a

larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of

the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti

Translated from the Arawak language the name

roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the

sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According

to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the

goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden

years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th

Century According to the traditional view two

forces contributed to the decline and depopulation

of Anguilla and the region in general From the

south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians

expanded into the region from about AD1200 and

at the end of the 15th-century diseases were

introduced into the region by European explorers

By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from

Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few

remaining Amerindians in the region

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain Cavern

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 4: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

4

Forward

On behalf of the Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society it is with

great pleasure that I write the foreword to this book The One-Page History of

Anguilla I must begin by complimenting Lillian Azevedo on this great

publication

This book is a valuable addition to the growing compendium of books on

Anguillarsquos history From her background in cultural anthropology and

archaeology and as a diligent researcher Lilli has compiled a text that

touches on all the significant periods of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural

history

The book will be a valuable resource for those involved in promoting

heritage tourism While it came out of Lillirsquos involvement with the Anguilla

Heritage Trail Project this book will have a much broader appeal

It is an interesting and uncomplicated book giving a well researched and

factual account of Anguillarsquos history As such it will be a useful teaching

resource for lower secondary students While the important historical events

are documented the book also expounds on the social economic and

cultural environment in which these events took place and as such is an ideal

social studies text It is also an easy read for those who simply need a quick

overview of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural history

The liberal use of pictures and drawings means it can grab the imagination

and hold the attention of children of all ages It is a must have for all

Anguillian homes and all those visitors interested in taking back a

meaningful souvenir of their visit

Kenn Banks OBE

President

Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society

Above Anguilla is a 34mi2 island located in the Lesser Antilles

Frontispiece Historic Wallblake House photo co Steve Garlick

5

Timeline of Anguilla

2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla

1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo

1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter

1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children

1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco

1698 Spanish and French pirates attack

1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla

1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin

1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French

1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the

Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded

1807 Prohibition of slave trade

18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts

Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

1834 Slavery is abolished

1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living

1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship

1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish

1967 REVOLUTION

January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert

July 11th Referendum in favour of secession

December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year

1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately

March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident

September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers

1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London

1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory

6

History

7

Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered

by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts

from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers

were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use

pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials

including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were

imported complete andor crafted locally

Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla

together with pottery forms and the development of

chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these

people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)

Trade

They imported raw materials including volcanic stones

from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis

which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles

Spirituality

Believing that humans originated from caves and the

world was divided into three spheres (caves where

humans came from subterranean waters where the

ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they

carved and painted images of their deities including

Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the

rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved

examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)

and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)

What they ate

The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition

to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America

Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as

flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared

from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest

indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals

when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians

rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They

fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna

Where did they go

The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla

date from the 1500s By the time the English

created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had

either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery

in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely

they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground

and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked

natural defences to common European ailments

Diseases including influenza measles and

typhoid devastated populations and there is no

evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla

when it was discovered by Europeans

Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)

(AAHS Collection)

Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall

Anguilla before Columbus

Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)

Zemi

excavated on

Anguilla

(AAHS)

8

Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger

What is the Fountain

The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two

freshwater pools and

is a natural habitat for

bats and other species

Carved and painted

onto the cavernrsquos

stalactites are

Amerindian glyphs

and carvings

Location

While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and

archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial

centre there were several nearby villages including

a large settlement on Shoal Bay East

Amerindian Beliefs

Caves were ideologically important to the Taino

who believed that all humankind originated from

a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept

inside during the day and came out as bats during

the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla

archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a

dozen petroglyphs

The largest and most impressive by far was a

larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of

the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti

Translated from the Arawak language the name

roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the

sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According

to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the

goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden

years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th

Century According to the traditional view two

forces contributed to the decline and depopulation

of Anguilla and the region in general From the

south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians

expanded into the region from about AD1200 and

at the end of the 15th-century diseases were

introduced into the region by European explorers

By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from

Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few

remaining Amerindians in the region

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain Cavern

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 5: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

5

Timeline of Anguilla

2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla

1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo

1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter

1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children

1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco

1698 Spanish and French pirates attack

1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla

1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin

1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French

1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the

Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded

1807 Prohibition of slave trade

18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts

Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

1834 Slavery is abolished

1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living

1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship

1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish

1967 REVOLUTION

January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert

July 11th Referendum in favour of secession

December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year

1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately

March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident

September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers

1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London

1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory

6

History

7

Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered

by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts

from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers

were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use

pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials

including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were

imported complete andor crafted locally

Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla

together with pottery forms and the development of

chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these

people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)

Trade

They imported raw materials including volcanic stones

from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis

which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles

Spirituality

Believing that humans originated from caves and the

world was divided into three spheres (caves where

humans came from subterranean waters where the

ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they

carved and painted images of their deities including

Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the

rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved

examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)

and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)

What they ate

The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition

to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America

Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as

flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared

from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest

indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals

when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians

rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They

fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna

Where did they go

The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla

date from the 1500s By the time the English

created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had

either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery

in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely

they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground

and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked

natural defences to common European ailments

Diseases including influenza measles and

typhoid devastated populations and there is no

evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla

when it was discovered by Europeans

Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)

(AAHS Collection)

Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall

Anguilla before Columbus

Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)

Zemi

excavated on

Anguilla

(AAHS)

8

Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger

What is the Fountain

The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two

freshwater pools and

is a natural habitat for

bats and other species

Carved and painted

onto the cavernrsquos

stalactites are

Amerindian glyphs

and carvings

Location

While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and

archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial

centre there were several nearby villages including

a large settlement on Shoal Bay East

Amerindian Beliefs

Caves were ideologically important to the Taino

who believed that all humankind originated from

a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept

inside during the day and came out as bats during

the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla

archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a

dozen petroglyphs

The largest and most impressive by far was a

larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of

the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti

Translated from the Arawak language the name

roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the

sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According

to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the

goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden

years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th

Century According to the traditional view two

forces contributed to the decline and depopulation

of Anguilla and the region in general From the

south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians

expanded into the region from about AD1200 and

at the end of the 15th-century diseases were

introduced into the region by European explorers

By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from

Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few

remaining Amerindians in the region

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain Cavern

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 6: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

6

History

7

Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered

by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts

from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers

were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use

pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials

including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were

imported complete andor crafted locally

Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla

together with pottery forms and the development of

chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these

people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)

Trade

They imported raw materials including volcanic stones

from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis

which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles

Spirituality

Believing that humans originated from caves and the

world was divided into three spheres (caves where

humans came from subterranean waters where the

ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they

carved and painted images of their deities including

Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the

rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved

examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)

and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)

What they ate

The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition

to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America

Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as

flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared

from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest

indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals

when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians

rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They

fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna

Where did they go

The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla

date from the 1500s By the time the English

created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had

either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery

in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely

they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground

and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked

natural defences to common European ailments

Diseases including influenza measles and

typhoid devastated populations and there is no

evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla

when it was discovered by Europeans

Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)

(AAHS Collection)

Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall

Anguilla before Columbus

Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)

Zemi

excavated on

Anguilla

(AAHS)

8

Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger

What is the Fountain

The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two

freshwater pools and

is a natural habitat for

bats and other species

Carved and painted

onto the cavernrsquos

stalactites are

Amerindian glyphs

and carvings

Location

While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and

archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial

centre there were several nearby villages including

a large settlement on Shoal Bay East

Amerindian Beliefs

Caves were ideologically important to the Taino

who believed that all humankind originated from

a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept

inside during the day and came out as bats during

the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla

archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a

dozen petroglyphs

The largest and most impressive by far was a

larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of

the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti

Translated from the Arawak language the name

roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the

sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According

to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the

goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden

years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th

Century According to the traditional view two

forces contributed to the decline and depopulation

of Anguilla and the region in general From the

south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians

expanded into the region from about AD1200 and

at the end of the 15th-century diseases were

introduced into the region by European explorers

By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from

Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few

remaining Amerindians in the region

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain Cavern

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 7: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

7

Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered

by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts

from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers

were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use

pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials

including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were

imported complete andor crafted locally

Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla

together with pottery forms and the development of

chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these

people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)

Trade

They imported raw materials including volcanic stones

from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis

which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles

Spirituality

Believing that humans originated from caves and the

world was divided into three spheres (caves where

humans came from subterranean waters where the

ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they

carved and painted images of their deities including

Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the

rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved

examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)

and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)

What they ate

The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition

to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America

Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as

flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared

from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest

indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals

when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians

rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They

fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna

Where did they go

The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla

date from the 1500s By the time the English

created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had

either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery

in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely

they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground

and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked

natural defences to common European ailments

Diseases including influenza measles and

typhoid devastated populations and there is no

evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla

when it was discovered by Europeans

Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)

(AAHS Collection)

Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall

Anguilla before Columbus

Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)

Zemi

excavated on

Anguilla

(AAHS)

8

Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger

What is the Fountain

The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two

freshwater pools and

is a natural habitat for

bats and other species

Carved and painted

onto the cavernrsquos

stalactites are

Amerindian glyphs

and carvings

Location

While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and

archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial

centre there were several nearby villages including

a large settlement on Shoal Bay East

Amerindian Beliefs

Caves were ideologically important to the Taino

who believed that all humankind originated from

a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept

inside during the day and came out as bats during

the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla

archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a

dozen petroglyphs

The largest and most impressive by far was a

larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of

the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti

Translated from the Arawak language the name

roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the

sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According

to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the

goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden

years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th

Century According to the traditional view two

forces contributed to the decline and depopulation

of Anguilla and the region in general From the

south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians

expanded into the region from about AD1200 and

at the end of the 15th-century diseases were

introduced into the region by European explorers

By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from

Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few

remaining Amerindians in the region

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain Cavern

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 8: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

8

Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger

What is the Fountain

The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two

freshwater pools and

is a natural habitat for

bats and other species

Carved and painted

onto the cavernrsquos

stalactites are

Amerindian glyphs

and carvings

Location

While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and

archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial

centre there were several nearby villages including

a large settlement on Shoal Bay East

Amerindian Beliefs

Caves were ideologically important to the Taino

who believed that all humankind originated from

a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept

inside during the day and came out as bats during

the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla

archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a

dozen petroglyphs

The largest and most impressive by far was a

larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of

the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti

Translated from the Arawak language the name

roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the

sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According

to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the

goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden

years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th

Century According to the traditional view two

forces contributed to the decline and depopulation

of Anguilla and the region in general From the

south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians

expanded into the region from about AD1200 and

at the end of the 15th-century diseases were

introduced into the region by European explorers

By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from

Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few

remaining Amerindians in the region

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain petroglyphs

Fountain Cavern

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 9: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

9

European Visits Before Settlement

The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in

1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in

1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed

through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He

reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed

before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St

Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623

They established the first English colony in the West

Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from

there the English colonized Nevis Antigua

Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and

Anguilla

The Dutch

The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as

a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a

natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three

ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small

fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the

Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St

Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla

fort for materials to repair their settlement in

Phillipsburg

1650

In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis

came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo

and without an official commission or charter We

do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla

but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By

1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to

70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun

in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in

1649 The English Civil War produced refugees

Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been

an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported

that a few English families had settled where the

island was widest around a lake were raising

livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla

had apparently recovered from the Amerindian

attack a decade earlier

A Persistent Spirit

Despite hardships the struggling settlement was

never abandoned The Anguillian family name

Richardson dates from this period

Little is known about these early farmers Using

contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on

other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions

would have consisted of little more than an old

chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks

some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book

or pamphlet

Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt

pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts

Settling Anguilla

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 10: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

10

1700s

As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain

amount of political autonomy with fairly lax

guidance and control being exercised by the home

government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown

on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less

than 100 years and was replaced by cotton

In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the

following year the French retaliated by landing a

party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach

surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back

to the French at the end of the war but many

Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St

Martin where their descendants live today

Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo

Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined

the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This

prosperity was short-lived

During the French Revolution in 1796 the French

invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better

location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force

destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus

Bay

The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy

Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival

of an English frigate saved many citizens from

would have likely been a bloody execution Still the

Island was devastated and the economy would take

over a century to recover The surviving French

prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave

in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black

stones

1800s

Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by

England into a political union with St Kitts and

Nevis and lost much of its autonomy

Sugar continued to be produced until after

emancipation when it became a victim of economic

change taking place in the Caribbean

The great drought of the late 1800s brought

tremendous hardship to the island Many

Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the

years emigration became a way of life for many

During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in

economic turmoil Property changed hands and

many former slaves become land owners While

some political reforms were instituted in 1936

universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not

achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla

KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is

one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s

Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)

Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 11: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

11

I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and

showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if

we were in any other place I would think that it was an

army of savages going upon some expedition But a

moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get

ready Get ready They are the savages

The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly

to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run

her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the

Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her

head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the

pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with

a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and

musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed

all the others held each of them two arrows on their

bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty

paces from us they made great cries and hootings on

coming to attack us but as we went to them before the

wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire

at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well

and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked

down more than half the savages and if the stern of the

pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have

escaped

There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so

that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the

pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains

and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were

so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage

While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of

the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an

arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels

bell without which he would have been killed But he did

not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot

him in the side The ball passed through him and M de

Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the

savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with

his bow and arrow where all the others even the

wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the

water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the

pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as

we were trying to get an English girl out an old female

savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh

as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian

Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others

of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the

neck which made her drop her prize This wound

nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself

upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could

get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his

legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to

save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But

his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by

the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a

young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken

on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we

saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands

to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never

saw her again While we were occupied in saving these

poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all

wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body

half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on

the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived

immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to

the charge five times and his strength failing him before

his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the

bottom

If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage

we would certainly have been taken but having seen the

fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we

stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and

having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved

themselves on a small island called Redonda

1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against

massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the

inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the

women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18

November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes

Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 12: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

12

The Golden Age of Piracy

The association of piracy and buccaneering with

Anguilla dates to the 17th century when

Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved

reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and

buccaneers

The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to

1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when

the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward

Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the

William and Mary in Anguilla which was

carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action

was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as

Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton

The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at

anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)

William Kidd

In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd

had touched at Anguilla There he learned he

had been proclaimed a pirate by the English

authorities The Anguillians refused him

assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates

would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years

William Kidd travelled to the states where he was

imprisoned and later carried to England

In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as

a warning to other pirates

Accusations of Pirate Dealing

In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the

committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla

were perfect outlaws

In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George

Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of

knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd

Unfortunately no other details are known

Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of

Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe

accused Governor Leonard of owing money to

Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had

married Rogersrsquo widow

Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A

retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain

Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the

entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800

blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas

Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover

landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but

were detected by the Anguillians and sent as

prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty

and sentenced to death

Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London

Piracy

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 13: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

13

Smuggling

Origins

The first real evidence that Anguillians were

engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year

an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near

the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of

Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting

turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling

and it is quite possible they were correct

Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards

were correct it would prove an even greater

lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its

fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot

be certain

Historian Don Mitchell writes that

It is this profession [smuggling] that was

responsible for having provided valuable

training and employment for generations

of famous Anguillian shipwrights and

sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)

The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in

fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by

Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats

which fished at day and smuggled by night

Smuggling was important to boat racing as

invariably the best boats for smuggling were also

competitive racers

Taxes

The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the

Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of

the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with

the presence of so many skilled mariners and

available boats has made smuggling a natural

pastime While liquor was the main commodity

other staple foods including rice sugar and flour

were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the

1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing

two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as

much as 20 shillings after importation There was

little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to

prohibition

How to Avoid the Reefs

The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid

both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos

dangerous reefs

At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which

were visible at sea but invisible from land

Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound

coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the

channel was straight ahead and they could enter

Marching Songs

Smugglers invented several marching songs the

most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail

the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo

All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum

Let drunkards prostrate fall

Bring forth the royal demijohn

And crack it on the wall

(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin

Bafflin 1997)

For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and

DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at

the history of smuggling and boat building

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 14: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

14

The St Martin-Anguilla Connection

From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla

had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers

from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian

Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War

of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year

300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy

Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help

of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully

captured the French side of St Martin

The French Invasion

In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus

Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on

a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla

advised his men

Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all

manner of military discipline so have

nothing to recommend to you but load and

fire as fast you can and stand by one

another in the defense of your country

so God bless you

-General Arthur Hodge

According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia

repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen

were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50

taken as prisoners

In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask

parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His

requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-

Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-

Dutch

Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The

area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as

late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as

Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even

while they have become extinct in Anguilla

Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla

The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 15: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

15

On the 21st instant early in the

morning we were surprised by a

fleet of French consisting of two

Men-of-War one of 36 guns the

other of 32 with 3 privateers

and two Dutch vessels as

tenders They had undiscovered

put on shore 759 men at a place

called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is

mis-reported as the landing

actually took place at Crocus

Bay]

Their success in landing was a

great encouragement to them

and a great discouragement to

us our whole force being 97 men

only These our lieutenant

governor Arthur Hodge formed

into three divisions and posted

them in a very narrow path by

which the French were to pass

secured with breastworks the

first of which would contain but

22 men commanded by Captain

Richardson These engaged the

enemy firing by platoons

regularly and with so true an

aim that every shot took pace and

the French fell so fast that in less

than ten minutes they lost

courage and fled with precipita-

tion having in this short action

at least 160 men killed and

wounded and drowned in

getting into their boats

We expected a fresh onset the

next day but it seems they had a

job of it for they went away

quietly We have buried 35 dead

and are daily in search of such as

have hid themselves in the

bushes or died there of their

wounds which latter we believe

by the stench to be many but can

give no certain account of them

nor of the drowned Among the

dead are the second Captain of

the Commodore (Monsieur La

Touch) the first lieutenant of the

other ship Capt Rolough and

old privateer Benar their pilot

who married his wife of this

island the Governor of St

Bartholomewrsquos son and several

other officers

The Commodore himself was

wounded in his arm and thigh so

much that they were obliged to

carry him on board as they did

25 others Some of these

particulars we learn by some

prisoners set on shore by a flag of

truce sent by the Commodore

They had landed several hand

grenade shells swivel guns fixed

on triangles beef cheese bread

and wine The four last articles

were good plunder for our

Negroes

Every dead man had in his

pockets nettles or small lines for

pinioning our Negroes We had

not one man hurt and have got

by this expedition besides two

pair of their colours a great

many fine buccaneer guns

cartouche boxes etc which they

left behind and with which we

intend to arm our most trusty

and sensible Negroes to

strengthen our island

Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745

Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 16: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

16

Anguilla in Context

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands

of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers

and pirates of all nations During the

Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent

470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-

tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-

structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo

The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and

moved through the settlements burning villages

and pillaging plantations as they went

Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main

town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the

church and burned Wallblake House Their advance

was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the

Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net

weights to make musket balls

Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that

he urged the men saying

I tell you what I know nothing of marching and

counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till

the enemy comes close and then fire and load and

fire again like the devil

-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor

Margaret Saves Anguilla

Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret

was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance

on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28

-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the

frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla

Arriving at night they saw the man settlements

and plantations in flames They engaged the

enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and

drove the other ashore on St Martin

The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French

to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill

In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were

left stranded Having surrendered they were

imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus

Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing

the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians

swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered

the French in their cells

For bravery two service medals were awarded for the

Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at

Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National

Maritime Museum in England

The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796

The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla

Stamp

Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 17: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

17

In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of

the Federation of the West Indies The Federation

collapsed in 1962 and despite individual

constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained

part of an Associated State with St Kitts and

Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the

Anguilla Revolution

In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials

Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only

other Plantation House on the Island Today the

separation from St Kitts is commemorated every

May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday

Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British

lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They

were welcomed by the Islanders with waving

Union Jacks

In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were

honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty

Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell

Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin

Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster

helped shape the future of Anguilla

During the 1970s debate continued over

Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps

of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos

infrastructure and lay many of the roads you

see today

In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate

dependency with some measure of autonomy in

government The Island has an elected

ministerial government and a British-appointed

governor Today the Island is a British Overseas

Territory

The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground

Anguillarsquos National Flag

The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 18: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

18

Plantations

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 19: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

19

Design and Efficiency

The design for the Plantation Great

House was introduced to the

Caribbean in the early 1600s a

century or so before the design

became popular in America The

design takes advantage of the

regionrsquos natural climate One or two

stories the Planterrsquos house is always

elevated to take advantage of breezes

The space under the house was

originally used to keep livestock safe

at night and later for storing

commodities and other valuables In

some cases it is also the location for a

cistern

Designs vary and borrowed elements

can include shutters (Jalousie) from

the French dormer windows from

the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings

from the English

Other classical European features

include column capitols bases

entablatures arches and plinths

The roof typically extends over a

balcony which often surrounds the

entire house The porches allow both

relaxation and shade allowing the

planter to survey his property in

comfort Continuous walls of shutters

on the outside of the porch rails

provide privacy from outside and an

extension of living space

Inside interior walls originally

stopped just above the doors

allowing air to freely circulate around

the homersquos interior

Standing the

Test of Time

The design of the sloping hip roof is

ideal to deflect hurricane winds and

to collect fresh water for the cistern

The shape creates a venturi effect

under the porches During a storm

this forces the wind through the

house via large French doors helping

to anchor the house to the ground

The design is remarkably efficient

and is one reason many houses have

survived weather which has

devastated younger properties

Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch

The Plantersrsquo House

lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 20: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

20

The Buildings

Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation

on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n

the Valley comprised the main house its

outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before

emancipation there would have been a slave village

attached to the plantation its exact location has yet

to be found

In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and

some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House

The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its

heyday the Great House was a prominent residence

in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended

as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on

site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was

burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least

one member of the Hodge family murdered who

was hiding in the basement The house however

was rebuilt shortly after

Ownership

lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate

probably derives from Valentine

Blake whose property in the

Valley is mentioned briefly in a

deed from the 1690s The Hodge

Family owned the estate before

emancipation during the lsquoSugar

Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house

following its destruction by the

French

Since the 1890s it has been owned

by the Lakes who leased the prop-

erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-

ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton

was grown on the estate

Wallblake House and

approximately 9 acres were willed

to the Catholic Church by Miss

Marie Lake Today the property is

the centre for the Anguilla

Heritage Trail and an office for

non profit organizations The

building is open to the public five

days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House

Wallblake House

Left Drawing of Wallblake House

estate by Ian Smith

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 21: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

21

Building a Plantation

Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House

Stonework

The house basement along with the

outbuildings the cistern and the sugar

works were all built using local stone The

foundations are built of cut stone held

together with lime made from burnt coral

and shells mixed with molasses and marl

It would have taken at least 18 months to

collect and cut the stone (possibly much

longer) and some of the stone may have

come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away

as East End and Scrub Island

The beading of each board used in the double

panelling of each partition (removed during

restoration) and intricate carving involved in

decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was

completed by hand

Other examples of this type of colonial architecture

can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the

Anguilla Heritage Trail

Woodwork

The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray

ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork

Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble

inverted trays suspended from the roof and the

decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called

roping because they look like rope tacked onto the

edges to hide irregularities

Outbuildings

In addition to the main house there is an elevated

cellar at ground level a bakery and two

outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo

quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been

labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original

animal round used to grind cane is approximately

100 metres from the main house

The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to

extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of

the boiling and curing house have not been found but would

have been nearby

Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 22: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

22

The Household

There were always two separate but

interrelated domestic communities on the

Plantation

The resident of the Great House the

Planter and his family enjoyed as many

amenities and comforts as he could afford

Anguilla Planters never amassed the

fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican

counterpart They did however maintain

a reasonable standard of living

Compared to life in Europe living on An-

guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty

Diseases wars hurricanes and drought

made life unpredictable and the future

uncertain

The Plantation owner and his family lived

in the House and were usually looked after

by female domestic slaves or after

emancipation servants

The household help would have been

responsible for cleaning and laundry food

preparation gardening and often child

care

The organization day to day operation and

discipline of the domestic staff and the

ordering of food and household supplies

(many of which were imported) would

have been the main responsibility of the

plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven

(separate from the house in case of fire)

would have been used for baking bread

and preparing food

While the separation between master and

slave may not have been as dramatic on

Anguilla as on other islands slave and

master lived in separate spheres Slaves did

not have legal rights and did not share the

benefits of their labour

Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)

Life on a Plantation Planters

The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all

the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 23: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

23

Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library

Field Work

The majority of slaves were field workers

who planted and harvested crops of cotton

and sugar It was labour-intensive work

Domestic Work

Domestic work at Wallblake would have

revolved around daily chores including

cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to

keep the household running smoothly

Special events such as Christmas and Easter

would have meant periods of high activity

in the Plantation household

The planting of a kitchen garden in the

rainy season was a job usually delegated to

the domestic staff as was care of the

household milk cow sheep goats pigs and

chickens Historically the

seasonal planting and

harvesting of sugar cane or

cotton would have made

extra demands on the time

and skills of the plantationrsquos

domestic staff

lsquoProvisionsrsquo

Crops grown for local

consumption (which during

productive years might be

exported) were known as

provisions Corn (maize)

along with pigeon peas (a

good source of protein and

dry weather resistant)

cassava (a starchy root)

sweet potatoes and yams

(another good source of

carbohydrates) formed these

usual garden crops

lsquoJollificationrsquo

The collective planting of

familiesrsquo garden plots was

known on Anguilla as

lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the

late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was

probably an extension of the

neighbourhood house building tradition

and served the same social purposes

A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828

When going to the Band-musking this

morning I heard a strange noise at

some distance which I learned was a

party celebrating a roof rising I

procured a guide and went unnoticed

to the spot They at first appeared

inclined to smile at reproof but

became attentive After some time

spent in reproof and remonstration I

requested them to kneel down that I

may pray with them The house being

small and having a large fire on the

floor in its centre I was almost

suffocated with heat and smoke [but]

rising from prayer I again exposited

with them (HB Britton 1828)

In the 20th Century the men of the

neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land

ready for planting while the women

prepared food and drink for a social

gathering that would take place after the

dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have

been sponsored by the Anguilla Public

Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos

historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s

Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 24: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

24

Amerindians

Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-

ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the

Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their

1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable

sources for fresh water

Wells and Cisterns

At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of

Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps

and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became

the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)

The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats

and a community meeting place for business transactions

to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage

Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible

while many others once used to wash clothes and draw

water are now forgotten (top left)

The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to

fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes

Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching

runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water

into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The

cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made

example which continues to hold water more than 200

years after it was constructed

Desalination

Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital

part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos

desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill

provides fresh water across the island The system pumps

sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is

pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on

Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to

customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water

Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and

cisterns for their freshwater requirements

Valley Well a Heritage Trail site

East End Pump Station

Fresh Water ndash

Anguillarsquos Staff of Life

The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand

more than 200 years ago and still holds water

Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily

overlooked

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 25: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

25

Slavery

The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the

1600s were white indentured servants and former

slaves from neighbouring islands

The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the

early 1700s led to larger estates the

conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of

many small-scale farmers

Increased numbers of black slaves were imported

to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by

1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1

While many Anguillians today believe that

slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other

islands its presence has left a permanent mark on

the Island

Work On and Off the Plantation

Sugar production is very labour intensive and

requires large numbers of workers However

outside the harvest many slaves were sent

off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring

plantations After years of work abroad records

show that some slaves returned with savings to

purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom

Anguillian Names and Slavery

It was accepted that planters would have children

with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from

the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of

these children were manumitted (freed) and given

property in their fathersrsquo wills

On freedom slaves retained their first name but

often took their last name from their master Thus

planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan

Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on

their names to former slaves These surnames have

been passed down through generations and are

part of Anguillarsquos heritage today

Emancipation Subsistence

Farming and Land Ownership

By the 1820s increasing taxes together with

decreasing productivity brought about by

exhausted soil drought conditions and falling

prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave

With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the

crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834

and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence

farmers who acquired the land and have held it

ever since

An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin

Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819

including a list of the estatersquos slaves

Slavery on Anguilla

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 26: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

26

Life in the 1800s

A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s

lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small

cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives

Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty

In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift

from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a

society of independent peasants

Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos

former slaves purchased land families

spread across the island farming provisions

and small crops wherever the soil was good

In the 1840s drought conditions and distress

led the British Government to plan the

evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara

(now Guyana)

Anguillians refused to move and conditions

improved by the 1860s with many

Anguillians working the phosphate mine on

Sombrero

However the Great Famine from 1888

through the 1890s once more causedhellip

Prolonged drought

repeated failure of crops

lack of seed death of cattle

sheep goats for want of

food and water-

(Colville Petty)

In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500

persons were given assistance from the

central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them

from actual starvation

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 27: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

27

Life in the 1900s

ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and

Hoperdquo

-description of 1900s by Colville

Petty

Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked

Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the

depressed conditions led many to seek work off-

island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to

Cuba and many others went to the Dominican

Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in

the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and

Aruba to work on the oil refineries

Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see

Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World

War 1

Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the

cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The

people lived from hand to mouth

Whenever conditions improved Anguillians

gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and

maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and

sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In

1960 the census shows that more than half of

Anguillians were unemployed while the others were

employed primarily in agriculture construction and

sea transportation But times were changinghellip

The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and

Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the

beginning of tourism marks a turning point in

Anguillarsquos history

agriculture18

services (teaching administration and

health)8

construction8

sea transportation

6commerce

(wholesale and

reta il)5

other2

unemployed56

Employment Sectors in 1960

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 28: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

28

The Sea

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 29: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

29

Maritime Heritage

From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla

enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible

From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism

Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed

Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island

Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground

The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein

While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the

ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 30: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

30

Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting

close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a

surprising number of shipwrecks

The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots

to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the

early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos

dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and

East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and

Websters trace their ancestry here although

unfortunately no primary sources survive

Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant

ships an English slaver American and Canadian

traders and more than two dozen named ships

Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a

likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many

more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays

In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine

artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create

underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly

hulks from Anguillarsquos coast

While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing

the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are

laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or

sold

Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave

ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772

Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom

Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla

Shipwrecks

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 31: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

31

In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef

programme in part to rid the island of unsightly

hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a

series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers

These sites can be visited today and include

MV Sarah

MV Ekco

MV Lady Vie

MV Meppel

MV Commerce

MV Ida Maria

MV Oospterdiep

MV Catheley H

MV Marva W

While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the

archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay

Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI

could see a future archaeological site-the rusting

hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-

low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the

BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)

Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique

history

World War II

For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel

127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in

1990

In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted

the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during

Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk

France Nearly sunk on several occasions by

U-boats the ship survived the war and success-

fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the

Caribbean as an inter-island freighter

Each of the ships is located off-shore and is

accessible only by boat Most of the dives range

from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or

Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships

the sites are habitats for a wide range of species

including lobster rays and fish

For more information please contact the Islandrsquos

dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy

Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal

Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)

Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites

but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral

species

Hilda aka Meppel during WWII

Artificial Reefs

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 32: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

32

The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded

in 2009

Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto

Anguillarsquos reefs

Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other

features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly

The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat

from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every

Anguillian with a freezer had it filled

Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos

past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses

on the material culture that remains from

submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions

and oral histories The first marine archaeologist

visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the

Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries

25 years later the first professional archaeologists

visited from East Carolina University and the

Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society

(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the

site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

More than a decade later another team this time

from the University of Southampton conducted a

three week field project photographing and

recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously

undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors

cannon and shiprsquos machinery

Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-

tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that

was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are

available to the public and have been published by

the archaeologists

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 33: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

33

The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen

from Anguilla

The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from

looters

One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the

Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve

Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo

The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been

a stomping ground for avocational and professional

treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities

result in a permanent loss of information and

history

In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo

became the centre of controversy when several

treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site

The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on

July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods

and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico

Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan

missionaries carrying a consignment of religious

medallions

The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and

holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran

aground but found centuries after by a spear

fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to

show the site to a number of tourists and soon

treasure hunters became interested

The site was protected as an Underwater

Archaeological Preserve by the Government of

Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public

Unfortunately looters continued to remove many

artefacts including coins buttons and medallions

Today it is illegal to visit the site without

permission from the Government While

Anguilla has kept a large collection of

medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken

from the sea are especially fragile Years under

the sea will change their chemistry and unless

they are conserved as soon as they are removed

from water they will quickly disintegrate

Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three

anchors It is located in a high energy

environment In 2009 the government together

with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts

from a private collector in the USA The

artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI

Their recovery will hopefully serve as a

warning for others

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 34: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

34

Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through

the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians

permanently migrated to other islands North

America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal

employment for Anguillians who were willing to

work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as

young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each

worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that

averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers

would leave each January crowded aboard

schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior

Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following

British legislation they carried one passenger per

ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would

load many more men and boys including those

from other islands The trip to San Pedro de

Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as

little as two days

Returning home the ships beat against the wind

and the voyage could last two weeks or more

On their arrival into Road Bay the schools

would empty as children and families rushed to

meet the workers The faster ships became

renowned for quicker journeys cementing their

place in Anguilla history

Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy

Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the

historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo

Domingo

The annual migration provided a vital income

The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a

large population Their return provided an

influx of cash which was otherwise impossible

to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians

welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris

Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried

Changing politics closed the door for

Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to

work in the Dominican Republic Moving South

Anguillians found work in the crowded oil

refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba

Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo

Domingo were animal-driven

These animal-powered mills which in some areas

continue to operate were very similar to the equipment

which would have been used at Wallblake House and

other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910

(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)

Migration and Santo Domingo

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 35: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

35

The Warspite commemorative stamp

An Anguilla Legend

Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was

originally christened Gazelle

In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and

renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen

Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He

altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the

length

She was a fast boat and soon became famous for

transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the

Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields

In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen

foot section was added to her centre

Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported

goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to

Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but

continued to live as a working boat

Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-

house on Sombrero

Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground

Fate

In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane

Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her

chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the

bitts and cast her ashore

In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of

postal stamps

Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground

The Warspite

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 36: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

36

Ad-hoc racing

Before organized racing there was competition The

challenge of one Captain to another was legendary

Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and

experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used

for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily

rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos

August Monday celebrations

Betting

While illegal and unregulated betting plays an

important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and

gained and considerable sums trade hands each race

Organized Racing

Racing was not incorporated into August Monday

celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday

was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated

in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called

Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a

bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot

Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August

Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats

were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over

time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting

sponsors and even occasional competitors from St

Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the

sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing

boats Increasingly built for competition their paint

became more decorative and their efficiency for racing

improved

Itrsquos all in a name

Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back

decades and in some cases generations For example

the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in

1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date

to 1996

Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition

Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 37: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

37

Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced

keys) provide important habitats for birds

and marine life together with recreational

opportunities for residents and visitors

Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include

Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus

Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay

Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay

North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island

Sandy Island also known as Sand Island

Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island

Sombrero also known as Hat Island South

Cay South Wager Island and West Cay

Most are of little consequence many are

privately owned and all our uninhabited

Facilities

Power does not extend to the off-lying cays

and there is no accommodation Today

Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are

the only cays that offer food and drink All

materials and supplies (including water) is

carried by boat from Anguilla and all

waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly

Pear currently has a solar system which

provides basic electricity

History

The cays have been used variously

through time In the 1800s a more fertile

Dog Island was used to pasture horses and

goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge

assaulted a slave called Charlotte After

beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and

forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain

place called Dog Island for a long space of

time for the space of three weeksrsquo

Charlotte was a witness in the trial but

Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing

by his fellow planters

The larger Island of Sombrero supported a

phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during

the 1990s was nearly leased to a company

who wanted to create a missile silo and

launch rockets from the Island

All the cays and Anguilla itself have

witnessed a number of shipwrecks and

disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy

Island were altered the palm trees

destroyed and the island swept clean by

Hurricane Louis

Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island

Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla

Off-Island

Cays

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 38: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

38

Industries

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 39: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

39

Origins

The first generation of settlers found cotton growing

wild on the Island where it had been left by the

Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal

crop as it required little capital outlay and did not

spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-

ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s

through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through

the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but

never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s

cotton had once more became the preferred crop and

in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory

Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)

through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-

11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK

In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of

cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are

covered by the runway However wild cotton trees

can be found throughout the Island from Corito to

the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by

birds

Sea Island Cotton

In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to

the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands

was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior

quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the

American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported

to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the

Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became

famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo

Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla

Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing

wild at Corito

The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the

Heritage Collection in East End

Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 40: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

40

Sugar Production c1730-1800

Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in

the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten

the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming

fashionable to drink in Europe at the time

Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey

previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical

islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the

growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass

family)

Great wealth was generated for the European

owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when

the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its

production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and

very labour intensive Its economic success in the

Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave

labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s

despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable

climate for its production

Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks

or canes were cut in the winter months when the

cane was about 15 months old

The cut canes were brought to the factory on the

backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted

from the tough cane stalks by passing them through

rollers as shown below

The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots

called coppers and lime was added to clarify the

juice

The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast

iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The

concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays

forming crystals as it cooled

Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when

the crystals were put in wood barrels

After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar

(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or

North America for further processing and sale

In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for

as much as US $5000

Molasses the by-product of sugar making was

either used on the estates for food mixed to make

building glue fed to the estate animals sold

overseas or used at home to make rum

At Wallblake House and other estates sugar

production was limited due to poor soil and lack of

rainfall

Animal-powered sugar mill

Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake

House in St Croix

Early sugar works with boiling house

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 41: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

41

Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from

Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the

Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came

here from other islands to collect salt

Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are

at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay

West End and Sandy Ground

These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut

off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their

mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other

islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are

below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates

by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick

crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface

This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers

bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of

salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small

salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was

back-breaking work

An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in

1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt

pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The

earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase

the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built

by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams

surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth

century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making

area The present structures and long middle dam were

erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of

Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from

the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s

The oldest part of the present restaurant called the

Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried

rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus

helping to preserve the salt crop

Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt

Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to

Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced

Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt

elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year

and the works abandoned

The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla

Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo

Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)

Salt Production 1600s-1983

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 42: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

42

Sombrero

34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada

passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today

the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island

has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a

geological survey discovered an abundance of

phosphate of lime (guano)

Mining

In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying

100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos

exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from

the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate

works were finally abandoned

Lighthouse

In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet

Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden

voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime

disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on

January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered

by Trinity House and manned by a long line of

Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the

Anguillian government in 2001 and the following

year the light was automated

Phosphate

Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano

or bird droppings

Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds

including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled

Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are

responsible for the phosphate deposits

The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the

middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians

store keepers and lighthouse keepers

Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden

voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby

Mining 1860-1890

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 43: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

43

Fishing with Pots

Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep

water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla

they are now made from rebar and chicken wire

while on other islands including Nevis and

Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame

Popular Fish and Shellfish

Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper

dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous

species of potfish including doctorfish old wife

porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are

also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and

whelks

Fishing Communities

While fishing was once island-wide today most

fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy

Ground and West End

While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at

least 50 families whose primary income continues to

come from the sea

From Sail to Power

From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats

used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles

off-shore At the end of the day the boats would

race each other home Racing as a national pastime

became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s

when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing

boats in Sandy Ground

Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of

sailboats began to covert to power The replacement

of sails might have been the end of sailboats on

Anguillahellip

Fishing Boats and Racing Boats

Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for

fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive

(sailing) races

Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats

and traditional sail boats Each year more than a

dozen racing boats compete for prize money and

bragging rights

A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s

Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its

fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during

Festival del Mar

Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire

Fishing

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 44: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

44

History

Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the

richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan

honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo

By the 1790s there was some trade between

Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from

Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy

Ground

These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of

building and modifying boats that continues today

By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians

were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was

built and registered on Anguilla She traded

throughout the Lesser Antilles before being

condemned in Tortola several years later

By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an

impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing

ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would

build a reputation for its mariners and ships

Boat Builders

Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very

talented boat builders Indeed in some families the

skill almost seems to be genetically inclined

-David Carty

Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla

today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a

pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo

Rebel Marine

From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by

David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard

While modern materials and tools are used

Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist

(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters

most

A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine

Boat Building

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 45: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

45

Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for

ways to move forward At one point a Lobster

Cannery was considered as there were so many

lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots

Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the

Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for

economic hardship Importantly rather than

welcoming wholesale development by foreigners

Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more

controlled approach that would focus on developing

a high-end tourism product that would cater to

fewer wealthier visitors

Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980

The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future

development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently

Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence

This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control

overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many

of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As

experienced on other islands these may include

raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural

homogenization andor environmental destruction

While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these

pressures the island has fared better than most 2012

marks 53 years since the first guest house was built

on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since

Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy

Today tourism (including construction related

activities) accounts for approximately 90 of

Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos

economy According to the Ministry of Tourism

lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy

reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest

asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the

beaches the history and the culture and that is the

reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return

year after year

Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980

Tourism

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 46: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

46

Natural History

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 47: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

47

Rain and Drought

Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry

weather This is because unlike mountainous

islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie

geography) to generate its own rain As a result

Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather

when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise

livestock and alternatively dry weather when the

island is particularly vulnerable to drought and

historically famine and even starvation Visitors to

Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo

Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed

a much greener island Even when Anguilla is

lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry

season The wet season runs from May through

November and corresponds with the Hurricane

Season As water becomes more plentiful it is

possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these

include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes

peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green

onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees

including mango avocado sherry and soursop are

especially prized

Hurricanes

The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian

god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical

storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla

Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice

(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on

Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which

demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and

Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every

aspect of life in the tropics For example before

Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed

from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation

concrete became the preferred material and remains

so today

Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010

Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 48: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

48

Hurricane Donna hit an already economically

depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare

for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from

hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named

were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth

Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were

injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed

All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels

were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming

and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for

several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley

and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos

Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British

Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were

set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room

concrete houses with galvanized roofs were

constructed for the most destitute

It would take Anguilla several years to recover and

life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming

help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance

for a longstanding resentment that would culminate

with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967

The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla

Hurricane Donna

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 49: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

49

History

Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle

were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of

Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well

ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious

animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn

and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each

planter laboured for himself and the island was

frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)

Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one

species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly

mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have

ever been found on Anguilla

Export

The settlers introduced other livestock including the

goats sheep and chicken you see today During good

years these animals offered an additional source of

income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and

sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between

Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens

(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and

most of the goats today are butchered and consumed

locally

Domesticated or Wild

Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more

often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed

rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly

native While a few are feral the majority are owned

(although you probably would never know by looking at

them)

As food

Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching

and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo

are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the

tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and

goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally

Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)

Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 50: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

50

Phosphate again

In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for

phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird

droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent

to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the

Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant

rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant

Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species

the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and

weighed between 165 and 330lbs

Prehistoric Anguilla

Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even

Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-

tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-

water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this

bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago

there was much more land This prehistoric landscape

supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct

species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on

small land masses and a victim of its own size

Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to

naturally support a population of large herbivores (the

largest native species is the iguana)

The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is

debated The cavern where the fossils came from was

invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process

which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing

stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate

and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even

earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from

Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple

Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East

The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo

Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 51: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

51

Exploring Anguilla and

Additional Resources

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 52: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

52

Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail

The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project

supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and

Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National

Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the

Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)

and individual and corporate donors The trail

opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010

The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in

Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors

and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent

markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by

public vote in 2010

In addition to the markers there are 30 directional

signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive

brochure which will is available from hotels car

rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The

sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse

Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens

Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy

Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)

Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory

Each site is marked with a large local boulder and

plaque with a brief description The Official Opening

was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on

May 31 2010

There is no official beginning but you may wish to

obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more

information about the sites before you begin

Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage

Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley

and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage

Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust

the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store

in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel

The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an

additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage

Please leave your donation at Wallblake House

Depending on how long you stop at each site the

trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There

are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail

logo to help guide you from one location to the next

and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of

Anguilla For more information on how you can be-

come a sponsor or volunteer email

anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom

Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs

Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail

Site

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 53: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

53

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 54: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

54

Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre

The Creole Publishing Company

Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press

London

Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing

Boat Anguilla Rockfield

Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty

Anguilla

Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and

Stoughton London

httpaahsanguillacom

Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla

httpaxanationaltrustorg

Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current

initiatives

wwwaxaheritagecom

A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and

sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer

2012)

Additional Reading and On-line Resources

55

Page 55: Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage

55