Andrew Harper's 2014 Hideaway Report

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T HIS ISSU E

SOUTH OF FRANCE A journey through the unspoiled heartland of Provence

MARSEILLE A fresh look at France’s second city

THE ROCKIES A road trip in western Colorado and Utah

Spring Spa Debut

IN T HE N E WS

NOWADAYS, spas have

become mandatory at

hotels with pretensions to

luxury. But the European

tradition of spa hotels

began in the mid-19th

century. The grandest of

them all, Brenners Park-

Hotel & Spa in Baden

Baden, Germany, dates

to 1872, when Stéphanie

les Bains, an existing

hotel, was purchased by

Anton Brenner. Spring

2014 will see the debut

of the Villa Stéphanie, a

new 54,000-square-foot

complex intended to set

an entirely new standard

for hotel spas. Brenners

Park has formed a part-

nership with the French

cosmetics company

Sisley. One highlight of

the new facility will be its

unique hammam. Spa

guests will be able to

relax in a private park and

a tranquil sunken garden.

BRENNERS.COM

T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RC H OF T RU LY E NC H A N T I NG PL AC E S

MARCH 2014 | OUR 35TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com

What I’ve learned, though, is that the best of the south of France is often found off the beaten path. And this doesn’t mean simply taking quiet country roads instead of highways, but tracking down those lesser-known places that the locals understandably keep to themselves.

Arriving in Avignon on my latest trip, for example, we visited the Musée Angladon, an overlooked gem with several canvases by Degas, Modigliani and Sisley, before heading to the Tavel wine region just outside of the city. Tavel is called the “King of Rosés” because, or so the story goes, it

was appreciated by the popes when the papacy was based in Avignon during the 14th century. Today, wine writers refer to Tavel as “the year-round rosé” because it is robust enough to dispel the traditional idea that rosés are only for summer drinking. After a tasting at which we ordered some wines to be shipped home, we enjoyed an excellent meal at the warm, friendly Auberge de Tavel. This had been recommended by an amiable winemaker with whom we’d struck up a conversation while having a coffee in the bar car on the TGV train from Paris. A delicious ragout of baby artichokes was followed

Pleasures of Provence and the Riviera

F E W PL AC E S I N T H E WOR L D A R E A S R E L I A BLY C H A R M I NG A N D CONSIST E N T LY SU R PR ISI NG

as the south of France. Even after dozens of trips, whenever I return to Provence and the Riviera I never fail to find a new hotel, a previously unknown village, a little restaurant, an atmospheric church, several wines to add to my cellar, or maybe a new olive oil.

BACK ROA DS FROM AV IGNON TO A N T IBES

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2 hideaway report | March 2014

Ceramics

LO C A L CR A F TS

JUST FOUR MILES north

of Uzès, Saint-Quentin-

la-Poterie was one of

the centers of ceramics

production in southern

France for many centuries.

Today, more than 20

workshops produce

porcelain, grès (varnished

and enameled sandstone),

raku (Japanese earthen-

ware) and faïence. The

work of local ceramicists

is displayed and sold at

the Terra Viva gallery.

14 RUE DE LA FONTAINE.

TEL. (33) 4-66-22-48-78.

GALERIE-TERRAVIVA.COM

Next door, the small,

charming Musée de la

Poterie Méditerranéenne

documents the history of

local production and also

exhibits ceramics from all

around the Mediterranean

basin. TEL. (33) 4-66-03-65-

86. MUSEE-POTERIE-MEDITER-

RANEE.COM

BED/DINING ROOM PHOTOS BY CYRIL LETOURNEUR; BATH PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

La Maison d’Uzès

by cannelloni stuffed with lamb, guinea hen with tapenade, and a superb cheese tray.

W e then headed to Uzès, 25 miles west of Avignon and among the most delightful

towns in the Midi. Our destination was the 12-room Maison d’Uzès, which opened last spring in an elegantly restored set of 17th-century stone houses. Since most of the surrounding streets are pedestrian-only, we left the car at a nearby garage and walked over to the hotel. There, we were welcomed with cool hand towels and iced tea, which we sipped in the small, stylishly appointed salon adjacent to the reception area. The heart of the house — despite offering hotel amenities and services of a high standard, it really does feel more like a house — is a magnificent Renaissance stone staircase. Aside from the historic charm of the honey-colored stone walls, huge overhead beams and tomette (terra-cotta tile) floors, the character of the property comes from an imaginative décor that successfully combines contemporary furniture with local antiques.

Our room was located up a stone stairway on the third floor. (Those with mobility issues should inform the management, so that they will be given rooms at the back of the hotel, where there is an elevator.) Late in the afternoon, sun streamed into the high-ceilinged space, which was decorated in soothing tones of ivory and pale yellow. In a sitting area, several upholstered armchairs stood in front of a handsome old fireplace. The large bath came with an oversize claw-foot tub, a separate shower and the same powdery-soft old tomettes underfoot.

Before dinner, we went for an aperitif at Terroirs, a popular wine bar overlooking the Place aux Herbes. It was while sipping a nice, flinty local white wine

that it occurred to me that I could very happily live in Uzès. Back at the hotel, chef Oscar Garcia served an outstanding meal of brandade de morue (salt cod with whipped potatoes) with squid’s ink and red peppers, guinea hen stewed in red wine with crayfish, and veal roasted with local black olives. The hotel’s principal amenity is a small spa in the vaulted cellars. Aside from the friendly service, elegant décor and well-considered comfort, what I like most about this place is the ideal setting from which to ponder the beauty of Uzès itself.

The best way to enjoy the nearby Pont du Gard, the famous stone aqueduct that was built in the first century to supply the city of Nîmes, is to be there when the site opens. So we rose early, and on a quiet morning, we were able to contemplate this spectacular structure almost alone. We then headed southeast for 25 miles to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. It was market day (Wednesday) in this enchanting little town, and we wandered through bustling stalls selling olive oil and lavender. Then, after a delicious lunch of salt cod with boiled vegetables, potatoes and aioli at an old favorite, Le Bistrot du Paradou, we headed east on a web of back roads to Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to visit its superb 14th-century Gothic basilica, dedicated to Mary Magdalene. The soaring nave is ornamented with the coats of arms of the counts of Provence, and the interior speaks of an ancient land, one indifferent to the ebb and flow of tourism.

C ontinuing our journey, we came to the little village of La Celle just outside of Draguignan.

Here, 15 years ago, Alain Ducasse took over an old-fashioned hotel, Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle, a former 12th-century Benedictine abbey,

“ Aside from its historic charm, the character of the property comes from an imaginative décor that successfully combines contemporary furniture with local antiques.

March 2014 | hideaway report 3

S t r a i t o f D o v e r

S t r a i t o f B o n i f a c i o

L y m e B a y

L i g u r i a n S e a

B a y o f B i s c a y

M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e a

G u l f o f L i o n s

G u l fo f

G e n o a

G o l f e d e S t - m a l o

E n g l i s h C h a n n e l

B a i e d e l a S e i n e

CORSE

PROVENCE-ALPES-COTE D'AZUR

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

AUVERGNE

RHONE-ALPES

LIMOUSIN

MIDI PYRENEES

AQUITAINE

POITOU-CHARENTES

BRETAGNE

PAYS DE LA LOIRE

FRANCHE-COMTE

ALSACE

LORRAINE

NORD-PAS-DE-CALAIS

BOURGOGNE

BASSE-NORMANDIE

CENTRE

HAUTE-NORMANDIE

PICARDIE

CHAMPAGNE-ARDENNE

ILE DE FRANCE

F r a n c e

S p a i n

United Kingdom

Switzerland

G e r m a n y

Italy

ITALY

Luxembourg

Belgium

Netherlands

Andorra

MONACO

FRANCE

AVIGNON

TOURTOUR

MARSEILLE

NICE

NIMES

UZES

TAVEL

ARLES

SAINT-REMY-DE-PROVENCE

SAINT-MAXIMIN-LA-SAINTE-BAUME

LA CELLE

LE THORONET

TARADEAU CAGNES-SUR-MER

ANTIBES

6

1

2

34

5

0 20 40 MI

0 20 40 KM

POOL/CHEF PHOTOS BY DAVID BORDES ROOM PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

and transformed it into a relaxed but stylish 10-room auberge. The hotel was once a favorite retreat of President Charles de Gaulle, so I couldn’t resist booking his preferred “Lucrèce de Barras,” a spacious suite with a beamed ceiling and ancient tile floors spread with Brussels carpets. A framed etching of the general, who liked to seclude himself here to write, made us feel as though he’d just stepped out for a stroll in the large garden. With a comfortable bed made up with good linens, plus a desk, a pair of armchairs in front of the fireplace and a large dressing area, we fell for the room immediately, though its small but serviceable bath needed some updating. The inn struck us as an alluring and unselfconscious distillation of everything there is to like about Provence.

Not surprisingly, since this property is part of the Ducasse empire, the restaurant proved to be excellent. So, after a drink in the pleasant bar, we dined on the large terrace outside and thoroughly enjoyed the cooking of chef Benoit Witz. Risotto with squid’s ink was followed by John Dory with fennel and a condiment of preserved lemons. The service was attentive, and the wine list offered a fine selection of local Côtes de Provence.

Though the vineyards of the Var — the department of Provence where La Celle is located — are best known for producing rosé wines, I’ve also enjoyed some excellent whites and reds from local winemakers. The following day, we set out early to do a tasting or two, and to visit the Cistercian abbey of Le Thoronet. Surrounded by lavender fields, the abbey, which was built during the 12th and 13th centuries, has architecture of strong and moving purity, which inspires an appropriately contemplative mood. After stopping by the Château de Saint-Martin in Taradeau to pick up a couple of bottles of its excellent 2011 Grande Réserve Cru Classé red — a Cabernet Sauvignon-Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend that teams beautifully with a good steak — we did a tasting at the elegant Château de Berne in Lorgues. We arrived in the charming hilltop village of Tourtour in time for lunch at La Table, the best restaurant in the village, where I strongly recommend the foie gras, followed by the roasted swordfish with cèpes risotto.

Just outside of Tourtour, the Domaine de la Baume is a charming new 15-room hotel surrounded by the former 100-acre estate of painter Bernard Buffet. The creation of hotelier Jocelyne Sibuet — known for Les Fermes de Marie in Megève in the

Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle

Chef Benoit Witz

HOTELS REVIEWED RATING

1 La Mirande 96 2 La Maison d’Uzès 94

3 Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle 93

4 Domaine de la Baume 93

5 Hôtel Belles Rives 94

6 InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu 90


THE DISTINCTIVE glass-

ware made by hand at

La Verrerie de Biot (The

Biot Glassworks) is found on

the best tables everywhere

in the south of France. It is

immediately recognizable

from the hundreds of tiny

bubbles trapped between

two layers of solid glass.

Located five miles northwest

of Antibes, the glassworks

was founded nearly 60

years ago. The opportunity

to watch the glassblowers

at work and also to buy a

full range of their products

makes this a fascinating

stop and an ideal place to

find presents and souvenirs.

CHEMIN DES COMBES, BIOT.

TEL. (33) 4-93-65-03-00.

VERRERIEBIOT.COM

Antibes Glassware

SHOPPING

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

coffee. Though the kitchen is better than average, this all-inclusive pricing makes it unlikely that anyone would want to stay for more than a night or two.

The following morning, after a well-served breakfast on the terrace, we set off for Cagnes-sur-Mer, 90 minutes away, to visit the Musée Renoir. This reopened last November after a renovation that deftly enhanced the delicate Belle Epoque atmosphere of the painter’s stone residence, which is set on a hillside surrounded by citrus trees. The 14 original canvases on display were even more interesting for being shown in this intimate personal setting, and the play of light on the surrounding gardens offered an intriguing window into Renoir’s inspiration.

A s I can never go to the south of France without at least one dip in the Mediterranean, I had

decided to conclude my journey in Juan-les-Pins, on the coast south of Antibes. Like the Renoir museum, the 43-room Hôtel Belles Rives evokes a quieter, palmier era on the Riviera. It is housed within an old stone villa where F. Scott Fitzgerald lived in 1926 while working on “Tender Is the Night,” and its private jetty is one of the more peaceful places to relax on this often-hectic coastline.

The young woman at the front desk proved delightful, and we loved our corner room with two balconies that offered superb sea views. The lively décor, including art deco armchairs upholstered in a zebra print, was appropriate to this Jazz Age property, and the well-appointed bath came with a separate tub and shower. Spacious public rooms, including a piano bar, were also decorated with original art deco pieces in a ’20s-inspired theme.

Happily settled on the swimming pontoon with a well-earned cocktail, we found ourselves in conversation with an Ohio college president and her husband, and a financier and his wife from New York. “What I love about this place is the history, the setting, the service and the fact that it’s a comfortable, old-fashioned French hotel without any silly frills like pillow menus,” the college president remarked. I felt no need to disagree with a word. “And the new chef is terrific, too.” So that night, we dined on the seaside terrace of La Passagère restaurant, where chef Yoric Tieche (formerly of Le Meurice in Paris) provided foie gras with cèpes, black sea bass with cockles and fresh herbs, dark chocolate soufflé and an excellent white wine made by the monks at the Abbaye de Lérins on the island of Saint-Honorat near Cannes. Tender was the night, indeed. But then, it so often is in the south of France. H

French Alps — the property was inspired by 18th-century aristocratic Provençal interiors. On arrival, I was immediately taken with its atmosphere of seclusion and the abundance of venues in which to relax with a book: the graveled terrace under the plane trees at the front of the hotel; the library with its cushy sofas; and the pool deck, tucked away below a formal garden.

Done up in chintz, our good-looking room came with a separate sitting area furnished with an upholstered love seat and armchairs; French doors opened onto a small balcony with fine views over the formal gardens; and the bath was fitted with both a claw-foot tub and a shower. After settling in, I accepted a standing invitation for a tour, and was taken to see both the clay tennis court and a waterfall in the forest near the spa cabin. After a massage, I helped myself to the iced tea and pastries served on the terrace every afternoon, and then spent an hour reading and listening to the cicadas.

Ultimately, this is a very pleasant and peaceful hotel. Its single disadvantage is that rooms are sold as part of a package that includes breakfast, an aperitif and dinner with wine, mineral water and

Domaine de la Baume, near Tourtour


HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

La Maison d’Uzès A94LIKE Warm, peaceful and relaxed atmosphere; excellent restaurant overseen by talented chef Oscar Garcia; pleasant spa. DISLIKE Access to the hotel by car is tricky because of pedestrian areas, and parking is in a local garage. GOOD TO

KNOW For a good casual meal and a change from French cuisine, head for Via Curti, an Italian restaurant with a friendly Neapolitan owner and a shaded garden terrace, just a five-minute walk from the hotel. ROOM, $335-$640; SUITE, FROM $680.

18 RUE DU DOCTEUR BLANCHARD, UZES. TEL. (33) 4-66-20-07-00. LAMAISONDUZES.FR

Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle A93LIKE Gracious hospitality; excellent cooking; setting in a small, peaceful village. DISLIKE Baths are adequate but in need of updating, with showers over tubs. GOOD TO KNOW Just across the street from the hotel, the Café du Midi is a good place for a salad and a glass of wine when all you want is a simple meal. SUPERIOR ROOM, $505; JUNIOR SUITE, $670. 10 PLACE

GENERAL DE GAULLE, LA CELLE. TEL. (33) 4-98-05-14-14. ABBAYE-CELLE.COM

Domaine de la Baume A93LIKE Secluded setting; magnificently landscaped grounds; beautifully decorated accommodations. DISLIKE The menu in the hotel’s dining room is limited, as is the wine list, and room rates are high. GOOD TO KNOW Tourtour is a center of truffle production in season (November-January); nearby Salernes is a major pottery-producing town. DELUXE ROOM, FROM

$695; SUITE, FROM $885. 2071 ROUTE D’AUPS, TOURTOUR. TEL. (33) 4-57-74-74-74. EN.DOMAINE-DELABAUME.COM

Hôtel Belles Rives A94LIKE Spectacular location at the edge of the Mediterranean; friendly and efficient service; historical associations with F. Scott Fitzgerald. DISLIKE Expensive breakfast; the ridiculous charge for a sun lounger. GOOD TO KNOW You can use the pool, health club and hammam at the Belles Rives’ sister hotel, the nearby Hôtel Juana, free. CLASSIC SEAVIEW ROOM, $880;

DELUXE SEAVIEW ROOM, $1,245. 33 BOULEVARD EDOUARD BAUDOIN, JUAN-LES-PINS. TEL. (33) 4-93-61-02-79. BELLESRIVES.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information about all of my favorite hotels in France.


“ The Hôtel Belles Rives is housed within an old stone villa where F. Scott Fitzgerald lived while working on ‘Tender Is the Night,’ and its jetty is one of the more peaceful places to relax on this often-hectic coastline.

Hôtel Belles Rives, Juan-les-Pins

Details of our room at Hôtel Belles Rives


HIDDEN ON A TR ANQUIL SIDE STREET BEHIND

the Palace of the Popes, La Mirande (A96) is one of the most reliably enchanting hotels in the world and a place to which I return again and again with a renewed expectation of pleasure.

The 27-room property occupies a biscuit-colored stone building that was once owned by the Emperor Napoleon III’s doctor. Its historic pedigree is also derived from a stately 17th-century façade and a magnificent 14th-century dining room. Aside from its peaceful location, the attributes of the hotel that I particularly appreciate are the consistently gracious service, the fine restaurant and the profound sense of place.

The rooms are decorated in a traditional Provençal style, with China trade prints or toile de Jouy fabrics on the walls, antique furniture, and painted wooden bed frames and side tables. Sisal rugs cover the polished parquet or terra-cotta floors. One of the great delights of the place is listening to church bells through open windows at night and then waking to the sound of birdsong from the lovely garden, planted with lavender and rosebushes. (The best views of the garden are from the new Deluxe Rooms in the recently completed addition to the hotel.) Baths come with high-quality replicas of 19th-century fixtures, and most have soaking tubs as well as showers.

In addition to enjoying chef Jean-Claude Aubertin’s excellent cooking in the formal dining room — don’t miss his roasted Provençal lamb with vegetable terrine, since it’s not only delicious but a fine excuse (as though one were needed) to order a good bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape — I always relish a table d’hôte dinner served in the old kitchen. I recommend this convivial meal, since the setting is beautiful and the occasion offers a good opportunity to chat with other hotel guests, most of whom are worldly and well-traveled.

The hotel also offers excellent hands-on cooking lessons. Chefs lead guests to the local market, help them to select the best ingredients and then, back at the hotel, to cook a Provençal meal. La Mirande may lack a pool and a spa, but I am invariably content with a glass of rosé in the fragrant garden at the end of a warm summer afternoon. H

A Civilized Oasis in the Heart of AvignonR ET U R N TO A VAUCLUSE CL A SSIC

New Restaurants in the South of FranceNOT SURPRISINGLY, THE SOUTH OF FRANCE attracts many of the best young

chefs in the country when they decide to open their own restaurants. The excellent local

produce and wines, the pleasant climate and an affluent clientele of both locals and visi-

tors all contribute to the allure. Here are some of the new places we enjoyed most.

L’ArmoiseChef Laurent Parrinello cooked at La Chèvre d’Or in Eze and the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc

before setting up shop with this small and charming bistro in the Old Town of Antibes.

The Mediterranean cuisine that emerges from his open kitchen has made it a local

favorite. Expect dishes such as arugula risotto, and half-salted cod steak with grilled baby

onions and chorizo. And don’t miss the local goat cheese. 2 RUE DE LA TORRAQUE, ANTIBES.

TEL. (33) 4-92-94-96-13.

La Table 2 JulienJust a few miles outside of Uzès, chef Julien Lavandet and his partner Jennifer Henriksen

have created a delightful and deservedly popular restaurant with excellent market-driven

Provençal cooking. The menu changes regularly, but dishes such as herb-garnished red

tuna and shrimp tartare, and yellow pollock with Swiss chard, artichokes and spinach

show off his style. Several large terraces provide venues for fine-weather dining. 12 ROUTE

D’UZES, MONTAREN-ET-SAINT-MEDIERS. TEL. (33) 4-66-03-75-38.

JanSouth African-born chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s casually elegant new restau-

rant has become a hit in Nice because of his precise and original cooking. The menu follows

the seasons, but dishes such as grilled scallops with cauliflower velouté, and a beignet

of smoked haddock and guinea hen with raisin-garnished pumpkin purée and pancetta

panna cotta are representative. The service is excellent. 12 RUE LASCARIS, NICE. TEL. (33) 4-97-

19-32-23. RESTAURANTJAN.COM

Le 46This friendly and casual bar à vin near the Palace of the Popes in Avignon is an excellent

address for lunch or a light dinner. Owners Nicolas Martin and Véronique Bonnemer know

their wines and serve a good selection by the glass. I especially recommend their take on

shrimp tempura, and the lamb chops with pea purée. 46 RUE DE LA BALANCE, AVIGNON. TEL.

(33) 4-90-85-24-83. LE46AVIGNON.COM

La Mirande, Avignon


PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu A90LIKE Spectacular views over Marseille (reserve a room with a view), private terraces and the excellent restaurant, Alcyone. DISLIKE No outdoor swimming pool; monochromatic modern room décors. GOOD

TO KNOW Just a short walk from the hotel, Compagnie de Provence (1 rue Caisserie) is a great place to shop for traditionally made savon (soap) de Marseille and bath products, which make ideal gifts and souvenirs. The fig-leaf- and olive-and-lavender-scented products are a great way to bring Provence back home. DELUXE KING HARBOR VIEW, $470; JUNIOR SUITE HARBOR VIEW TERRACE, $980. 1 PLACE DAVIEL,

MARSEILLE. TEL. (33) 4-13-42-42-42. IHG.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information about all of my favorite hotels in France.

A GR I T T Y P ORT R EIN V EN T ED

The Growing Sophistication of Marseille

Built in a natural amphitheater around one of the world’s great ports, it has a fascinating history, some superb architecture and fine museums. On the other hand, it lacks the finesse that is often associated with urban life in France, and for many years, its reputation has been tarnished by associations with the Mafia and the drug trade, famously dramatized in the film “The French Connection.” Now, though, Marseille is finally shedding its rough-and-tumble

image and finding its place in the sun as a vibrant and exciting city. Last year, it was a European Capital of Culture, and not only did downtown areas get major overhauls, but several outstanding museums opened, along with a fine hotel and many new restaurants. True, you still won’t mistake Marseille for Saint-Germain-des-Prés — it remains a big, busy port with an ethnic stewpot of a population — but the locals are friendlier than they may seem at first, and the city now warrants two or three days of exploration by more adventurous travelers. And at long last, it has a better-than-average hotel, the newly opened InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu , which occupies a restored 18th-century former hospital building.

Although not everything about this 194-room property is perfect — it doesn’t have an outdoor pool, and the somber color schemes of the contemporary décors can seem less than inspiring — I loved spending time on my private balcony staring out at the harbor and the neo-Byzantine church of Notre-Dame de la Garde on a distant hillside overlooking the city. The service is prompt; the rooms are comfortable; and the two restaurants by talented chef Lionel Levy are excellent. Les Fenêtres is a traditional brasserie serving Mediterranean dishes, and Alcyone offers “contemporary and creative” cuisine against a striking backdrop of the Vieux-Port, where the Greeks founded the city in 600 B.C. The lively Capian bar provides an agreeable venue for a digestif, and when the weather’s good, drinks are served outside on a spectacular stone-paved terrace. A Clarins spa features an indoor pool, a hammam, saunas and six treatment rooms. This hotel also offers a convenient location and on-site parking, which is a huge help to anyone touring Provence by car.

Before now, I’ve struggled to find a satisfactory base in Marseille. I’ve tried the historic Grand Hotel Beauvau overlooking the Vieux-Port because it is pleasantly old-fashioned and offers great views, a convenient location and a long and illustrious past (many writers and artists have stayed here). It is not a luxury hotel, however, and neither is the city’s single Relais & Châteaux property, Le Petit Nice, which is run by Gérald Passédat, Marseille’s only three-star chef. I also find it overpriced, stuffy and inconveniently located. During the summer, I’ve also given my patronage to the Sofitel Marseille

“ Marseille is finally shedding its rough-and-tumble image and finding its place in the sun as a vibrant and exciting city.

The view from our private terrace at InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu

A F T E R M A N Y Y E A R S , I ’ V E H A D A SE R IOU S

change of heart about Marseille, France’s second city. It’s one of those places people either love or hate, with detractors out-numbering admirers, so I’ve long refrained from offering a judgment.


LOCATED AT THE ENTRANCE to Marseille’s Old Port, the ponderously named Musée

des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée (MuCEM) is the boldest architectural

innovation in Marseille since the sloping glass skyscraper by London-based Zaha Hadid —

a new headquarters for shipping company CMA CGM — arose on the waterfront in 2010.

The museum was designed by French architect Rudy Ricciotti, and it joins the historic

Fort Saint-Jean to two elegant modern pavilions in a complex that was the focal point of

Marseille’s year as European Capital of Culture in 2013. The mission of the museum is to

examine the art and cultural interactions of the countries around the Mediterranean, and

somewhat surprisingly — the subject is complex, to say the least — it does so success-

fully, with a fascinating set of permanent exhibits and regularly changing displays. The

showstopper, however, is the main building itself: a glass structure sheathed in a lace-

like concrete envelope that creates a remarkable play of shadow and light in the interior

spaces. 1 ESPLANADE DU J4. TEL. (33) 4-84-35-13-13. MUCEM.ORG

The museum is hugely popular, so avoid long lines by going early in the day. Plan on

lunch at chef Gérald Passédat’s crow’s nest restaurant, Le Môle Passédat (La Table).

There, you will enjoy very good modern Mediterranean cooking, with dishes such as

dressed crab with harissa (the North African hot sauce), and sea bass with sautéed

fennel. RESERVATIONS BY INTERNET ONLY: RESERVATION.LEMOLE-PASSEDAT.COM

Mediterranean Civilizations Museum

PHOTO BY AGNES MELLON

Skybridge to the new museum complex

C U LT U R E

Best of the BistrosMARSEILLE IS IN THE MIDST of a restaurant boom.

Formerly, the city had a reputation for good pizza (go

to Chez Vincent, 25 RUE GLANDEVES, TEL. [33] 4-91-33-96-

78) and bouillabaisse (the best is at Restaurant Chez

Michel, 6 RUE DES CATALANS, TEL. [33] 4-91-52-30-63), but

there is now an excellent selection of small bistros.


Pasta with shellfish at Le Grain de Sel

La Boîte à SardineFor a terrific catch-of-

the-day menu in this

seafood-loving city, try this

casual and authentic place.

Aside from superb fish from

boats operating out of the

port, it offers a spectacular

setting overlooking the

Mediterranean from a

craggy promontory.

7 BOULEVARD DE LA

LIBERATION. TEL. (33)

4-91-50-95-95.

LABOITEASARDINE.COM

L’EpuisetteFor excellent southern

French cooking, don’t miss

this Marseille institution,

perched on rock at the

entrance to the old port

of Vallon des Auffes. Chef

Guillaume Sourrieu makes a

superb fish soup, along with

more elaborate dishes such

as sea bass in caviar butter,

John Dory with Swiss

chard, gnocchi and black

olive sauce, and chocolate

soufflé with black-pepper

ice cream. VALLON DES

AUFFES. TEL. (33) 4-91-52-17-82.

L-EPUISETTE.FR

Le Grain de SelMany of the best new tables

are simple little places, a

reflection of the Marseillais

dislike of formality and

pretension, and one of

my favorites is Le Grain

de Sel, located on a side

street near the Vieux-Port

and perfect for lunch. The

chalkboard menu changes

regularly, but runs to dishes

such as green gazpacho

with baby clams, and roast

veal with polenta and

anchovies.

39 RUE DE LA PAIX-MARCEL-

PAUL. TEL. (33) 4-91-54-47-30.

G A ST RONOM Y

Vieux Port, which has a commanding location, a good restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool. But it’s not within easy walking distance of the sights you’ll most likely want to see, so, in the end, the InterContinental really is the best bet, with the important caveat that you book a room (Executive Room or Junior Suite) with a harbor view and private terrace.

In addition to taking an excursion by boat to view the calanques, the dramatic white cliffs and fjord-like coves just west of the city, a visitor to Marseille should be sure to see the impressively renovated Musée d’Histoire de Marseille and the new MuCEM, a spectacular museum of Mediterranean civilizations that opened last summer at the entrance to the Old Port (see box). Marseille has dozens of other great little museums, though, and a special favorite of mine is the time-capsule-like Musée Grobet-Labadié, which occupies the 19th-century mansion of the wealthy merchant Louis Grobet and displays the collection of medieval, Renaissance and 19th-century art that his widow donated to the city. What is really charming about this place, however, is that it serves as a sort of living bookmark to the tastes and lifestyle of the Marseille bourgeoisie during the 19th century, when the city was booming after the opening of the Suez Canal and trade was expanding with France’s burgeoning colonial empire. The magnificent 19th-century Palais Longchamp also houses first-rate exhibitions and is worth visiting for its flamboyant architecture alone. Its collection of paintings includes works by David, Courbet, Corot and Millet. And the surrounding park is listed by the French Ministry of Culture as one of the Remarkable Gardens of France. H


Mountain Refuge

CL A SSIC U PDAT E

LOCATED AT THE END of

a remote box canyon and

surrounded by 13,000-

foot peaks, Colorado’s

Smith Fork Ranch (A97)

is almost the definition of

a Rocky Mountain hide-

away. The nearest town,

Crawford, seems to exist

in a time warp. The ranch

was first homesteaded

in the 1880s, though the

surviving buildings are

mostly of a later date.

This once-dilapidated

enclave has been lovingly

restored, and decorated

with a refined sensibility.

Accommodations consist

of three separate cabins

and two guesthouses.

The River House lodgings

are particularly desirable.

Dinners are occasions

of serious gastronomic

intent and feature local

lamb, beef, venison

and trout. Most days

are spent in the saddle.

Alternatively, guides

escort hikers through the

majestic Black Canyon

of the Gunnison National

Park. Trout anglers have

access to three miles

of crystal-clear stream.

Smith Fork Ranch is a

civilized retreat that

inspires nostalgia for the

Old West and the values

of a more innocent age.

SMITHFORKRANCH.COM


TOU R ING W EST ER N COLOR A D O A N D E A ST ER N U TA H

W e began our journey by driving through Colorado National Monument before

connecting to state Highway 141, part of the Unaweep-Tabeguache Scenic and Historic Byway. This well-maintained road becomes increasingly dramatic as it winds southwest along a gorge bounded by ever-taller canyon walls, ridges and mesas. In the middle of this splendor, towered over by the immense sandstone Palisade, stands the recently renovated Gateway Canyons Resort. Since 2011, this 60-room property has been managed by Noble House,

the same company that runs Little Palm Island and the WaterColor Inn. I hoped Gateway would be the equal of these fine resorts, and in many ways, I found the property very appealing. Memorable views extend in every direction, though inexplicably few of the accommodations orient themselves toward the Palisade. We happily explored some of the hiking trails behind the property with an Adventure Center staff member infectiously passionate about his work, and later took a trail ride with a rodeo barrel rider who led us through sweeping meadows and picturesque stands of cottonwood and aspen.

But our stay, alas, was not free of problems. Most annoying, the trail ride required four conversations to arrange: the concierge, the front desk, the Adventure Center and finally the stables. At a resort charging between $500 and $1,600 per night (not including an outrageous 10 percent resort fee), it was irritating to be passed from one staff member to another. Our accommodations did little to assuage the sense that our pockets had been picked. We opted for the year-old Kayenta Lodge as opposed to a room in the original (and less expensive) Kiva Lodge next door. Our Kayenta Premium Suite (201) had the best aspect of any room in either

A Drive Through the Splendor of the Rockies

H AV I N G TA K E N S E V E R A L R E C E N T T R I P S T O C E N T R A L C OL OR A D O, I DE C I DE D ON T H I S

occasion to head farther west and to explore some famous national parks that I hadn’t visited in years. Our itinerary formed a rough ellipse, from the airport at Grand Junction to near the border of New Mexico and back north through eastern Utah. This route took us through an extraordinary variety of stirring landscapes, from red rock mesas to snowcapped peaks.

View from Telluride’s Town Park

Colorado R.

Gunnison R.

Do

lore

s R.Colo

rado R.

UTAH

COLORADO

COLORADONATIONAL

MONUMENT

GRANDJUNCTION

TELLURIDE

DOLORES

MOAB

ARCHESNATIONAL

PARK

UNCOMPAHGRENATIONAL

FOREST

CRAWFORD

0

0

100 KM

100 MI

50

50

NEW MEXICOARIZONA

BLACK CANYON OFTHE GUNNISONNATIONAL PARK

CANYONLANDSNATIONAL

PARK

SAN JUANNATIONAL

FOREST


Dining Discoveries in Majestic Telluride

COSMOpolitanAttached to the Hotel Columbia, overlooking the gondola to Mountain Village, this contemporary American

restaurant incorporates local ingredients in as many dishes as possible. My appetizer of goat-cheese burrata

came with heirloom tomatoes, pumpkin seeds, savory pumpkin-seed oil and arugula. The buffalo tenderloin

that followed was very flavorful, and was accompanied by risotto studded with foraged porcini mushrooms.

A short but well-chosen wine list focuses on California, France and Italy. 300 WEST SAN JUAN AVENUE. TEL. (970)

728-1292. COSMOTELLURIDE.COM

221 South OakThis former house a short walk from the Hotel Columbia has no view of note, but it ranks as one of Telluride’s

leading restaurants. In a cozy space decorated with bright landscapes, we started with a selection of house-

made sausages, of which the sweet and savory chicken-cranberry and the Asian-inflected duck-mushroom

versions were especially delicious. I also relished my main course of Colorado striped bass, served with meaty

mushrooms and crunchy haricots verts. 221 SOUTH OAK STREET. TEL. (970) 728-9507. 221SOUTHOAK.COM

Rustico RistoranteWe enjoyed a fine Italian lunch at this classic restaurant on Colorado Avenue, Telluride’s main commercial

street. I particularly enjoyed a plate of citrus-cured salmon served with crunchy white cabbage and tangy

Borettane onions. The steep $29 price tag of the homemade tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms was less

palatable. But I would return just to take advantage of the impressively broad selection of Italian wines.

I ordered a sprightly Picollo Gavi di Gavi, and a lush La Cappuccina “Arzimo” Passito for dessert. 114 EAST

COLORADO AVENUE. TEL. (970) 728-4046. RUSTICORISTORANTE.COMPHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

Citrus-cured salmon served with crunchy white cabbage and tangy Borettane onions at Rustico.

COLORADO MAY SEEM

an unlikely place to grow

wine grapes, but Sutcliffe

Vineyards now produces

serious wines. John Sutcliffe

became a winemaker by

accident, initially planting

grapes for aesthetic

reasons. His winery outside

of Cortez now has some 36

acres of organic vineyards.

I enjoyed the characterful

Sauvignon Blanc and the

refreshing Riesling, but

it was the creamy fruit of

the reds that really caught

my attention. The Petit

Verdot in particular tasted

wonderfully rich. Dunton

Hot Springs serves some

Sutcliffe wines at dinner, but

you can also try them at the

winery or in the Durango

tasting room.

SUTCLIFFEWINES.COM

Tasting Notes

V I T IC U LT U R Ebuilding, and was located on the second floor with a balcony, warmed by a gas fire bowl, facing the Palisade. A double-sided gas fireplace inside kept the living room and bedroom cozy. As impressed as I was by the impeccable housekeeping, evidence of cost-cutting could be seen everywhere, from the plastic soaking tub to the faux-leather ottomans to the ugly carpet, obviously chosen for its ability to hide stains. There was no turndown service. And though it was possible to arrange for room service, in practice this involved going to the restaurant to place an order for delivery, since the suite lacked any menus. The cuisine also proved to be uneven in both the formal restaurant and the casual pub.

In general, service was unfailingly warm and engaging, but the staff members seemed to lack training in luxury hospitality, and the accommodations did not live up to their rates. I very much enjoyed the activities and the beautiful surroundings, but overall, the resort is a poor value for the money.

D riving southeast for just over 100 miles, we came to Telluride, a former silver mining

town, at an elevation of 8,750 feet. This is now one of Colorado’s most dramatic ski resorts, overlooked by 14,000-foot mountains. Ideally situated at the edge of the historic center, the Hotel Columbia is a contemporary 21-room property that houses COSMOpolitan, one of Telluride’s best restaurants (see below). Despite its in-town location, the hotel is convenient for skiers, as the free gondola leading

up to the ski hub of Mountain Village is right across the street.

Before our arrival, the efficient concierge had confirmed dinner reservations, as well as a 4x4 excursion. The staff further endeared itself to me at check-in. Unprompted, the friendly woman at the front desk confided that she thought the $20 per-day parking fee was too high, and changed it to $10. We ascended to our top-floor Premium Hot Tub Suite, which at first glance seemed very appealing, done in muted tones of gray, beige and brown. The spare, dormered bedroom had a gas fireplace and a balcony overlooking the gondola; the travertine-clad bath provided a spacious shower stall. I didn’t care for the slanted ceilings of the living room, but it offered a variety of comfortable seating choices, including a leather-upholstered sofa. Most remarkable was the suite’s mountainview terrace, with a table and chairs and a four-person Jacuzzi.

It was bliss sitting in the hot tub with glasses of wine, watching the sunlight soften and dim on the mountains. Regrettably, this experience was marred by the sloppy housekeeping. The area surrounding the Jacuzzi was dirty, as was the wall of the shower. And later, as we were attempting to go to sleep, we became painfully aware of the room’s inadequate soundproofing. We checked out of the Hotel Columbia with few regrets.

I was confident that our next stay would go more smoothly. Our last visit to Dunton Hot Springs

had been delightful, and I looked forward to trying


HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

Gateway Canyons Resort 86LIKE Magnificent natural setting; elaborate Palisade swimming pool; flawless housekeeping. DISLIKE The 10 percent resort fee; the complex and inefficient system for arranging outdoor activities; the less-than-luxurious room furnishings. GOOD TO KNOW Auto aficionados can rent exotic cars at the on-site Driven Experiences center. KAYENTA DELUXE, $670; KAYENTA SIGNATURE SUITE, $800. 43200 COLORADO

HIGHWAY 141, GATEWAY, CO. TEL. (970) 931-2458. GATEWAYCANYONS.COM

Hotel Columbia 84LIKE Convenient central location adjacent to free gondola up to Mountain Village; notable restaurant; glorious mountain views from our Jacuzzi terrace. DISLIKE Poor housekeeping and maintenance; insufficient soundproofing. GOOD TO KNOW The front desk is not staffed at all late at night. PREMIUM

KING, $565; PREMIUM HOT TUB SUITE, $765. 301 WEST SAN JUAN AVENUE, TELLURIDE, CO. TEL. (970) 728-0660.

COLUMBIATELLURIDE.COM

Cresto Ranch A90LIKE Pristine surroundings; plush tents; delicious food; friendly and motivated staff members. DISLIKE Tent heating may be inadequate for early spring and late fall. GOOD TO KNOW Cell phones receive no signal here, but long-distance calls from the tent’s landline are complimentary. MOUNTAIN OR RIVER TENT,

$1,400, INCLUDING FULL BOARD. 52068 ROAD 38, DOLORES, CO. TEL. (970) 882-4800. DUNTONHOTSPRINGS.COM

Sorrel River Ranch 87LIKE Glorious views of red rock landscape; unforgettable trail rides; fresh and spacious accommodations; efficient room service; excellent spa. DISLIKE The hit-and-miss cuisine; the many undertrained staff members. GOOD TO KNOW Corner accommodations such as H1, H4, J5 and J8 have more windows. RIVER VIEW DELUXE KING, $530; RIVER SPA SUITE, $570. MILE 17, UTAH HIGHWAY 128, MOAB, UT. TEL. (435) 259-4642.

SORRELRIVER.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information about all of my favorite hotels in Colorado and Utah.

“ Inside, the tents exhibit rugged good taste, and staying in them requires little sacrifice of comfort.

out its new luxury tented camp, Cresto Ranch, set four miles to the south. This eight-tent property occupies a tranquil expanse of meadow, forest and mountain, and overlooks a fine trout stream. On arrival, we were escorted to “Brook,” a River Tent, and before unpacking, we sat listening to the sound of the rushing water. Mountain Tents purport to have “spectacular views,” but trees can obscure the panoramas. “El Diente,” at the far end of the row, offers the best combination of privacy and views, while “Brook” is the most favorably sited River Tent.

Inside, the tents exhibit rugged good taste, and staying in them requires little sacrifice of comfort. Ours came with a pine-framed king bed (twin-bedded tents are also available), cowhide rugs and pine nightstands topped with elegant glass lamps. In back, the tent opened to a full slate-floored bath, complete with hot water heater, shower/tub combination and vanities topped with quartz counters. The landline telephone and Wi-Fi dispelled any lingering sense of roughing it.

We took our breakfasts and lunches in what used to be a farmhouse, decorated now with a woodburning fireplace, communal dining tables and plaid sofas. The weather was warm enough to sit at the picnic tables outside. Dinners were at Dunton, where we enjoyed dishes such as Colorado venison with Gouda polenta, and Puget Sound scallops over forbidden rice and green beans in a well-balanced curry sauce. Staff members provided transportation between the two resorts, allowing us to indulge in the surprisingly good Colorado wines from Sutcliffe Vineyards, which paired with the various courses.

Throughout our stay, the staff were engaging and clearly took pride in their work. A summer visit to Cresto Ranch is exceptionally pleasant, but I would not recommend braving the tents during the spring or autumn, as their gas fireplaces might prove insufficient to ward off the chill.

T urning back north, we drove through other-worldly red rock landscapes up to Sorrel River

Ranch, close to both Arches and Canyonlands national parks. The road leading to the property winds along the Colorado River, already forming a canyon that presages the glories farther downstream. Accommodations occupy nine buildings along the river, and though the vistas from the Mountain View Rooms are pretty, trees and other buildings can obscure the rock formations, making the River View suites the best choice. For maximum privacy, opt for a second-floor suite with a balcony (Suites


L A ST WOR D

AS YOU WILL SEE, this

is the third issue of the

new four-color newsletter,

and I am delighted to

say that the response to

the new format has been

overwhelmingly positive.

We have also launched

our new website, where

spectacular full-screen

slideshows encourage

you to dream of far-flung

lands. Of all the changes we

have introduced, however,

I am particularly pleased

with those to The Andrew

Harper Collection. This is

now published as a series

of 12 booklets, designed

to accompany you on your

travels. In addition to hotel

recommendations, they now

feature extended restaurant

listings, plus sightseeing and

shopping suggestions. The

Collection is only included in

Premier and Premier Online

subscriptions. To upgrade

your subscription, please

call (866) 831-4314 or

email clientrelations@

andrewharper.com.

A Brave New World

L A ST LO OK Church Rock, one of the many extraordinary sights we encountered driving from Cresto

Ranch in Colorado to Moab, Utah

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Illustrator Melissa Colson


Personal Photos Whenever possible, I will share photographs from my trips. These are denoted “Photo by Andrew Harper.” On our website, you will also find more personal pictures and videos. In this newsletter, look for the symbols below.

= slideshow at AndrewHarper.com

= video at AndrewHarper.com

Scenic Rockies Drive CONTINUED

J1-J8), or to avoid stairs, select E1, E2 or H1-H4, which all have riverview patios and minimal foot traffic. Suites C1, C2 and A1-A4 are closest to the swimming pool and the main lodge with its two restaurants and bar.

Our bright River View Deluxe King Suite had warm wood floors and wainscoting, and a beamed ceiling inspired by traditional latilla and viga construction. Other touches left us in no doubt that we were in the American West: horse heads emblazoned the amber glass chandelier over the copper-topped dining table, as well as the light fixture over the sofa and rocking chair; steer horns hung above the log-framed four-poster king bed; and elsewhere, framed Remington prints decorated the walls. In the tiled bath, dual vanities faced a claw-foot tub ringed with startlingly powerful jets. Outside, we enjoyed morning coffee in the

comfortable wooden chairs on the patio, taking in the mesmerizing views of the Colorado backdropped by red rock formations.

As fit the pattern of the trip, the service did not quite live up to the ranch’s glorious setting. Many of the staff were interns and their lack of experience was painfully evident at times. Of greater concern was the inconsistency of the resort’s restaurants, the only ones around for miles. Nevertheless, I have many pleasant memories of our stay. The unforgettable “Ridge Top Ride” took us into the mesa- and pinnacle-punctuated landscape behind the resort. And an afternoon in the spa proved relaxing and therapeutic. There is no better base from which to explore the geologic wonders of Canyonlands and Arches national parks, but until Sorrel River Ranch increases its service and culinary standards, it cannot be recommended unreservedly. H

T R AV EL OFFICE N E WS

ALTHOUGH WINTER IS SCARCELY OVER, now is the time to make plans for high-season travel to Europe. As many

families vacation together during summer break, connecting rooms tend to be in short supply. Major cultural centers

fill up quickly, as do favorite resort areas such as the Amalfi Coast, the Côte d’Azur and the Croatian archipelago.

To escape the crowds, consider other possibilities. For example, the Swiss Alps and the Dolomites offer world-class

hiking, as well as exceptional spa resorts and distinctive cuisine. The British Isles also have fine walking country in the

Scottish Highlands and England’s Lake District, along with castles, distilleries and famed links golf courses such as

St. Andrews, Muirfield and Royal Dornoch. Scandinavia enjoys long hours of summer sunshine and offers pristine

beaches, dramatic fjords and some of Europe’s most exciting restaurants in Stockholm and Copenhagen. Regardless

of your destination, be sure to book as far in advance as possible to avoid disappointment.

Contact the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected].

Planning Ahead for Summer in Europe

Andrew Harper's 2014 Hideaway Report

Documents