Ancient Indian Fashion FactsIt may be surprising to some, but
garments were not really stitched together during the ancient days
in India. Read on to know many such interesting facts about ancient
Indian fashion and how those trends are still being used today, in
a modified way.
India has a rich culture and tradition which is reflected in the
clothing as well. Indian fashion has seen a metamorphosis since the
ancient days. Although, the basics of clothing are the same, we can
find a lot of western influences and modern designs that have been
incorporated into the basic structure of any Indian outfit. So,
what was ancient Indian fashion actually like? It was the time when
there were no designers displaying their haute couture to pamper a
luxurious line of clientele. Ancient India had its own kind of
customs and traditions that were to be followed by generations and
we can see its presence felt even today.
Facts on Ancient Indian WardrobeCotton clothing was
predominantly used in India during the olden days. This was as
early as the Harappan civilization. During the Aryan period, Sari
became the traditional clothing of Indian women. Sari is a long
piece of cloth that can be wrapped in different ways over the body.
Saris were also made in silk apart from the regular cotton ones.
(Wealthy women only wore silk in the ancient days.) Saris were
generally having the length of five yards or even nine yards, at
times. The sari was worn as a skirt with the upper half thrown
above the shoulder and sometimes worn over the head as a kind of a
veil. Sometimes, the sari was even tucked between the legs to form
a pattern of a pant. Even today, the tradition way of wearing a
sari is still followed; sometimes with some modifications as well,
which would depend upon the latest trends.
The Indian sari has always been a very elegant piece of garment,
which was always worn with a choli or a blouse. The choli is a
tight fitting blouse that is worn under the sari. This pattern
evolved around the tenth century and some of the first designs
covered only the front area, with the back being bare in this case.
During the ancient days, such blouses were not stitched at all; in
fact this garment was simply fastened at the back with a knot.
Today, the basic choli is worn in various styles from halters to
tube tops and although such designs are considered 'modern', the
basics of these can be traced in ancient India.
A startling fact about ancient Indian fashion was that the
clothes were not stitched together at all. They did not really have
garments that were sewed together! This was because most of the
clothing was ready-to-wear, as soon as they left the loom. Examples
of these would be the dhoti, the sari, the turban and the scarf.
Men wear the dhoti even today; though this is definitely not worn
by the average working man; it is still visible on the fashion
runways and design houses as well. The dhoti covers the legs and
has one end of it that is passed between the legs, which is then
tucked behind. Dhotis were generally worn short and did not have
the part that covered the chest and the shoulder area. Men combined
these dhotis with turbans; these were also wrapped around the head
in a particular fashion.
Although the saris and the dhotis have never gone out of
fashion, with the Persian influences in Indian fashion, women and
men wore long tunics that went down to the knees with pants that
were known as churidars. Ancient Indian attire also includes the
very popular, versatile, comfortable and stylish salwar-kameez. The
salwar is a loose trouser whose basic design has been modified
since ancient days. The tunics were worn with churidars or the
loose salwars. Indian couture can never be complete without the
mention of the bindi. The basic form was a dot, which was worn on
the forehead as a symbol of marriage. Today, even unmarried women
in India wear the bindi, which is designed in various forms and
shapes, colors as well as textures.
Gold was popular since the ancient days in India. This was
always worn on the skin at all times. It was always believed that
gold, as a metal, has the power to purify anything that it comes in
contact with it. Gold was used since the days of the ancient
Mohenjodaro and Harappa civilizations. Apart from such ornamental
decorations, one also saw the use of flowers worn in the hair and
eye makeup that always included kajal for the eyes. Ancient Indian
fashion could never be complete without these elements.
By Kashmira Lad
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Bridal WearIndian bridal wear is elegant, detailed and beautiful.
Learn about the different kinds of these bridal wear and how it is
worn by varied states within the country.
A thin aerial veil is drawn o'er beauty's face, seeming to hide,
more sweetly shows the blushing bride. ~ Richard Crashaw
A traditional Indian wedding is a vibrant and elaborate affair
with the blushing bride being the cynosure of the ceremony. The
Indian bride has a variety of bridal wear options to shimmer,
sparkle and glow as she drapes herself in the choicest of
embroidered fabrics and elegant jewels. Although conventionally
Indian wear is synonymous with the Sari, the ghagra choli, lehenga
and the salwar kameez, most of the people outside India do not know
of the multiple choices available in each category. India being a
country with diverse religions and cultures, every religion,
culture or region boasts of a unique wedding style replete with
their regional specialties and diverse rituals.
Types of Traditional Indian Bridal Wear
Since India is home to a large number of cultures and religions,
it might be impossible to list down the bridal wear variations in
every religion and the following sub-sections. Here are some of the
popular Indian bridal wear styles that exist in prominent sections
and cultures of the Indian heritage:
The Punjabi Bride: The traditional bride in Punjab can wear
either a sari or a lehenga. The colors that are generally worn are
vibrant colors like red, orange or magenta. The sari or the lehenga
is heavily embroidered with phulkari work which involves use of
darn stitch on the wrong side of a coarse cotton cloth with colored
silken threads. Although many interesting patterns of phulkari work
can be seen, traditional motifs of wheat and barley stalks are
commonly printed. Usually, the bride wears gold jewelry. Another
characteristic feature of traditional Punjabibridal attire is the
chuda that is a set of red and cream ivory bangles.
The Maharashtrian Bride: Owing to the fact that the green color
is considered as auspicious and also a sign of prosperity in the
state of Maharashtra, the bride is usually draped in a green sari
with traditional zari embroidery which involves fine gold or silver
threads woven into fabrics. The paithani is perhaps the most
popular sari in Maharashtra named after the Paithan region in the
state where these saris are woven by hand. Made with the finest
silk, the paithani, is characterized by borders of an oblique
square design, and a pallu with a peacock design. Also famous is
the nauvari sari which is a sari that is nine-yards in length.
Although the nauvari style originated in the era of the Maratha
empire, where women ventured into the battlefields in crucial times
of war, the nauvari sari is a popular form of trousseau in
Maharashtra till date. Usually the jewelry includes gold ornaments
with pearls. The bride also wears the famous nath which is a pearl
crusted nose ring.
The Bengali Bride: The traditional Bengali bride is draped in a
Benarasi sari with a wide zari border and a red cheli or veil on
her head. The bride wear an attractive headgear called sholar mukut
which is a crown carved out of bark of a tree. The bride's forehead
is adorned with interesting motifs made with sandalwood paste. The
bride wears traditional heavy gold jewelry and her head is covered
with a dupatta. Traditionally, the bride wears three types of
bangles namely shankha (conch shell bangle), pala (lacquer bangle),
and loha (iron bangle).
The Muslim Bride: The Muslim brides are always dressed in cherry
red bridal robes. The lehenga or the salwar kameez is heavily
embroidered usually with golden work. Silk is generally the fabric
of choice in traditional Muslim bridal attire. The bride's head is
always covered with a Ghungat that covers not just the head but
also the shoulders, back and comes down almost to the waistline
The Catholic Bride: The Indian Catholic bride is no different
from Catholic brides across the globe. The traditional Catholic
bride wears a white / off-white bridal gown with a delicate veil,
where the colors symbolize purity.
The Tamilian Bride: In Tamil Nadu the bride is draped in a red
or maroon sari. The kanjeevaram sari is a very popular type of sari
that is created in a small town of Kanchi in Tamil Nadu. The
traditional bride in Tamil Nadu adorns her hair with fresh orange
and white flowers. In addition to the other common jewelry, the
bride traditionally wears traditional jewelry like raakudi which is
worn in the hair and the oddiannam which is a type of ornamental
belt.
Contemporary Indian Bridal Wear
Although traditional bridal attire continues to be popular with
Indian brides, many of the brides are always keen on trying out
more contemporary or even designer bridal wear for their wedding
day. The traditional kanjeevaram sari, Paithani sari do exist, but
they have been upgraded with more contemporary designs and motifs.
Traditional saris are now made available with more options in terms
of the colors as well as the embroidery patterns. Geometrical
patterns, abstracts are finding a place in Indian bridal wear as
well. The traditional ghagra choli is also now available with more
modern patterns and cuts. The traditional Indian bridal wear has
now evolved to encompass the more contemporary fashion trends
across the globe.
Bridal Sari: The contemporary bridal saris that are available
today, retain the elegance of the traditional look and yet manage
to add a streak of modern fashion trends with interesting
variations. The traditional blouse worn with the sari had traveled
beyond the puffed sleeves to include interesting noodle straps,
fashionable necklines, and heavy embroidery. The Indian brides have
also come up with more modern draping patterns for the sari. The
Indian bride is now experimenting with more contemporary colors
that were once perceived as rather unconventional. Blushing pinks,
marine colors, cool pastel shades, earth colors are now becoming a
part of the bridal trousseau.
Lehengas and Ghagra Choli: Just like the sari the lehenga has
evolved in this era of fashion and style. The regular lehenga or
the ghagra which was like a flared long skirt, is now being
experimented with. The Indian bridal wear options now include
pleated, embroidered and even fish cut lehengas. The dupatta or the
chunari which is an integral part of the Indian bridal wear is now
available in more fabrics and more contemporary embroideries, dyes,
and even handwork. The choli as mentioned earlier has gone uber
cool with sleeve-less, strapless, narrow-strapped, or noodle strap
varieties.
What's Hot in Contemporary Indian Bridal Wear
Colors: Although the Indian bridal wear has traditionally been
limited to a few colors the Indian brides are increasingly
experimenting with more unconventional colors. For those who prefer
the traditional colors, there is an option to have an ensemble that
blends a traditional color with another to create a balanced look.
Rust color, metallic shades with golden or silver tints can make a
trousseau look elegant and rich. The more unconventional colors are
also in vogue. Earth colors, pastel shades, or the more
unconventional lavender, pinks and blues are also in fashion. The
key is to maintain the traditional elegance with a streak of modern
flamboyance.
Fabrics: Although the traditional silk still remains to be the
fabric of choice for most Indian bridal wear, there is now a wide
variety of silks like metallic silk and crepe silk. If you are
ready to look beyond the silk, you can pick from a wide variety of
contemporary fabrics ranging from the crepe, Georgette, or even the
exquisite jute varieties. Picking out the fabric largely depends on
the style of your wedding ensemble and your personal
preference.
Embroidery: The traditional embroidery for Indian bridal wear of
course retains the old-world charm but the contemporary embroidery
patterns offer to add a modern streak to bridal wear. Modern
embroidery patterns range from geometrical shapes, asymmetrical
patterns to abstracts. Although many would find it absurd to sport
a trousseau that has abstract embroidery over it, you can use these
patterns wisely to incorporate them in your traditional look.
Expensive crystals, precious and semi precious stones and beads are
increasingly used in the Indian bridal wear as well.
Accessories: The Contemporary Indian bridal wear is chic and
smart replete with all the right fashion accessories. The
traditional heavy golden jewelry is replaced with more elegant gold
designs. Diamonds, rubies and other precious stones encrusted in
white gold or platinum have become increasingly popular with the
brides. The Indian bridal wear is now complemented with interesting
fashion accessories be it the jewelry, the sequined clutch bags or
even elegant tiaras. The sandals not only match the trousseau in
terms of color but also come with fine embroidery and gems. An
elegant brooch with diamonds, gems or precious stones is another
hot bridal accessory.
The traditional Indian bridal wear symbolized the rich ancient
culture, but the contemporary Indian bridal wear brings a subtle
blend of the new and the old as the Indian bride awaits at the
doorsteps of womanhood with elegance, confidence, and mesmerizing
beauty.
By Uttara ManoharRead more at Buzzle:
http://www.buzzle.com/articles/indian-bridal-wear.htmlIndian
ClothesWith Indian clothes gaining a global appeal, these garments
have come a long way in its worldwide acceptance. If you need to
revamp your wardrobe, read on to know some of the must-haves in
Indian clothes.
Indian clothes are fast gaining prominence in the global market.
In India, almost every state has its own distinctive style and ways
of dressing and one can see that ethnic wear really rules Indian
style of dressing. Women in India still follow the traditional
styles of Indian clothes although now one can see a western
influence in it as well. Indian clothes, though traditional and
ethnic in their appeal, have a large market due to the versatility
it offers. They can be structured to look really modern and even
ethnic, at the same time. Every community in India has something
new to offer as far as the designs are concerned. Colors are used
in abundance and this is visible in the colorful costumes of the
women in Gujrat and Rajasthan as well. From being rich and
elaborate to being glamorous and sensual, Indian clothes have a lot
more to offer than you could ever imagine. Take a peek into some of
the basics of Indian clothing and why these are a rage even
today.
Types of Indian ClothesIndian women and the sari have always
been a longstanding affair. This is definitely the most sensual and
glamorous outfit that has gone through various modifications along
the way. For those who are not really acquainted with a sari, this
is a long strip of cloth that is always worn with a top or blouse
(choli). This garment can be patterned, plain, having detailed
embroidery to almost sheer in its material. This long strip of
cloth has varying length of four to nine meters. One end of the
sari is draped around the waist and the other is arranged over the
shoulder. There are different ways of draping a sari as well, which
would depend upon the state or upon the creativity of the person.
The tops or the blouse is generally worn with short sleeves but due
to the Indo western influence, many designs that incorporate
halters and backless designs, are quite popular as well. (Though
some fashionistas argue that halter and tube top designs actually
originated in the ancient days of India itself and are not a
product of western influences.)
Indian clothes also incorporate the Salwar Kameez, which is very
popular amongst women for the comfort and the versatility it
offers. The Salwar Kameez is a flowing dress and always has the
three elements-the salwar, kurta and the dupatta. The styles of the
Salwar Kameez also vary and today we can see variations in the fit,
lengths of the kurtas, patterns and silhouettes as well. The
Indo-western styles have an interesting mix with loads of detailed
work as well. Bandhani, beaded sequins, block prints, chikankari
are some of the most favorites. This is also called a Punjabi suit
because of its popularity in Punjab. The kameez is a tunic worn
over the salwar that is baggy with folds or fitting as well.
Chiffons, denim, silk, cotton, georgette etc are some of the
fabrics that can be used for Salwar Kameez. Halter designs and
designer backs have also been infused with the traditional
structure of the Salwar Kameez.
Most Indian weddings can never be complete without the heavily
embroidered or embellished saris, but another such popular garment
in traditional clothing is the Ghaghra Choli or the Lehenga Choli.
Also known as the Sharara at times, this traditional dress was
first introduced to India during the Mughal rule. The Ghaghra choli
also consists of three elements- a long flowing skirt (Ghaghra), a
fitting top, also known as the choli and a dupatta. Shararas are
mostly fitted till the knee area and flare towards the bottom half.
When worn for weddings, these Shararas are heavily embroidered or
embellished with various design elements. The dupatta has always
been worn to cover the head but today there are various ways used
to drape the dupatta, apart from the traditional ways. Bright and
loud colors such as red, pink and even gold are very much in demand
when it comes to bridal wear. The Lehenga Choli or the Ghaghra
Choli also varies in its looks as per the areas or regions in
India. These can be shimmering to heavily embellished garments and
look grand when teamed with gold accessories and Kundan jewelry
that completes the look. Because of the grandeur of such Indian
clothing, these are mostly popular for weddings and other formal
and typically Indian functions.
The traditional clothing for men has always been the dhoti
kurta. Even this ethnic attire has been a part of the Indo-western
culture and has seen many modifications till date. Worn on an
everyday basis in ancient India, the dhoti kurta was therefore
considered as a part of casual wear for men. Today, it is a part of
formal wear as well; due to the abundance of designer wear clothing
in the market. The dhoti is a rectangular piece of cloth that is
worn around the waist and legs. There are various styles of wearing
the dhoti as well; this largely depends upon every state in India.
Generally, it is folded around the waist and the top ends are tied
in the front and the left and the right ends are tucked in the
back. The dhoti is worn with a kurta, which is a long fitting
garment on the lines of a shirt. The Dhoti Kurta is also worn with
a dupatta for formal occasions. In South India, men sometimes fold
the dhoti in half and tuck it into the waist so that it only
reaches the knees, as it gets too cumbersome to manage.
The Sherwani is another such popular garment amongst Indian
clothes. This resembles a coat and is also worn only during
weddings and festive occasions. The Sherwani is worn by men
although this is very heavily embroidered at times. This coat often
fits the body snugly and is generally worn with a loose pant,
churidar or even a dhoti. The origins of Sherwani at times it
attributed to Central Asia. Donning a Sherwani is considered to be
a mark of royalty and a symbol of status, since the ancient
days.
As compared to all the above-mentioned outfits, Indian clothing
also includes the lungi which is perhaps the most simplest and
easy-to-wear attire! This garment is worn around the waist and
flows down to the ankles. Worn by men especially in South India,
the lungi is now being worn by women as well. The modified and hip
version of the lungi is called the sarong or wrap-around skirts
that are available in varied lengths. Available in solid colors and
zany prints as well, the lungi is a favorite amongst many,
especially in areas that have a hot and humid climate. These are
tied or fastened at the waist in various ways.
The turban has always been the one main accessory that has
blended well with the Indian clothing. This is worn on the head and
consists of a single piece of cloth that is wrapped around the head
area. Although Indian men today do not really use the turban on an
everyday basis, it was a common affair in ancient India, as a means
of protection from the heat. Turbans are therefore popular in
Rajasthan and are also associated with the Sikh community in India.
The turban also has a religious significance in India. The shades
of the turban are also used to signify different meanings as
well.
Whatever the occasion or region in India, Indian clothing has
come a long way from the way garments are styled and their reach,
globally. With every state having its own unique and characteristic
feature, the variety that one may see in can be mind-boggling at
times! Although most fashionable garments have a certain shelf
life, they are definitely here to stay!
By Kashmira LadRead more at Buzzle:
http://www.buzzle.com/articles/indian-clothes.htmlThe Sari -
Mystery and GraceThe quintessential eastern fashion statement, the
sari seems to be the most misunderstood garment, in the history of
apparels. Though a number of European designers are increasingly
vouching for its comfort and beauty, it is still an enigma for
western cultures, mysteriously draped and staying in place without
any help from pins or buttons!!!!!
A charming folktale goes "The Sari, it is said, was born on the
loom of a fanciful weaver. He dreamed about a woman. The shimmer of
her tears. The drape of her tumbling hair. The colors of her many
moods. The softness of her touch. All these he wove together. He
couldn't stop. He wove for many yards. And when he was done, the
story goes, he sat back and smiled and smiled and smiled."
The long length of garment in rich hues weaves and warps, is
just another few yards of textile, till it is draped on a woman's
body. And that is the beginning of the transformation, both for the
garment and the woman. The world's oldest surviving fashion
statement, the sari first finds mention in the Vedas, the ancient
wisdom of the Asian sub-continent. More than 5000 years ago it
existed in a similar form and was called `cheera', meaning covering
cloth. Some people think that Indian sari is influenced by Greek or
Roman toga, which can be seen on ancient Roman statues. This is not
correct. Saree is essentially Indian in nature and was best suited
to local climatic conditions. Cotton was cultivated in India
centuries before Alexander the Great landed on the borders of India
and Indian cloth was a wonder to the Greeks. In fact, Herodotus and
other ancient western historians thought there were trees in India
which grew cloth!
Times changed and its patterns changed too, and after many
changes, evolution and styles later, it is today the primary wear
of the Indian woman, and still the only wear for the rural Indian
woman. More than 75% of the population of the Indian subcontinent
wears the sari, in one form or the other.
The dress has survived the test of time, cultural invasions and
even colonization. It is to its credit that the Muslim invasions,
Europe colonization and even the recent globalization of styles,
fashions and cultural ethos, have not managed to dent the
authenticity, utility or the fan following of the sari. It still is
considered the best dress for occasions like marriages, festivals
and gifting to women, across the length and breadth of the country.
Another interesting thing that is now seen is the adaptation of the
sari for nouveau fashion styles, even by some European fashion
houses. One can understand the interest that the classically
oriented French culture can have for a classically beautiful
garment like the sari.
The sari, in its original form, was a single length of cloth
with designs, worn pleated on the lower half of the body and draped
across the upper part. It is worn in at least 10 to 15 styles
throughout the India, though the ways of wearing above used to be
common. In Maharashtra and North Karnataka region, wearing a
nine-yard Saree (without a petticoat - long underskirt - which was
superfluous) was in vogue till 20th century. In many tribal
cultures of India it is still worn like that. But after the entry
of Muslim and Middle Eastern influences in India, the petticoat or
the undergarment covering the lower half of the body, started. The
sari was fastened on this base layer, pleated to allow free
movement of the legs, then the remaining garment thrown over the
shoulder to drape the top.
The style of draping the sari differs between regions in India.
The rural women wear it with the topmost pleat tucked into their
backs, going from between the legs, and this seems to be the most
comfortable style as far as hard workingwomen are concerned. The
warrior queens who went to battle on horseback would wear their
saris this way, so do the women who work in the fields, as hard as
their men themselves, planting, hoeing and transplanting. The
garment is convenient because it leaves the arms and legs free,
covers the essential parts and gives a good drape too.
In other areas, styles differ, in the cities, it is worn with
more style, even as a glamorous party outfit. The sari can be made
to resemble shorts, trousers, flowing gown-like or convenient
skirt-wise-all without a single stitch!
The textile used to make this ethereal garment boasts of real
variety. From the diaphanous cottons, soft and delicate, the muslin
from Dhaka, to the sturdy silks of South India, the weaves and
wafts hold sway. Each region has its own special texture and
design, depending on the regional crafts and the climate of that
particular area. Woven silks, gauzy muslins and textured silk
cottons hold sway over millions of female hearts.
The areas which are hot and humid around the year have a unique
style where the upper part of the body is not restricted to any
more clothing, hence the traditional mundu of South India-Kerala is
comfortable for women in those sticky, long months of tropical
monsoon.
The garment has undergone functional changes even if its
original style has stayed. For instance, the warrior races of
Northwest India, the Rajputs developed the `odhni', a slightly
shorter garment worn over a flowing skirt and upper garment. The
flowing skirt is called ghaghra and owes its origins to the
gandharan garment that was wore in these regions in ancient times.
The upper garment in the form of a small jacket or blouse is a
Victorian addition, because when European cultures came into India,
they were in the Victorian era, so even a naked ankle was scandal.
For the far more open culture of India, this was difficult, but a
mean had to be struck. So the sari adopted the blouse to please the
colonial masters. Traditionally, Indian women wore what was called
a kanchuki ( a single cloth tied across the breasts, much like a
strapless bikini top), and there are many paintings and other
evidences to prove this. But those were the times of the Kama
Sutra, and for a culture that can come up with a treatise on sex, a
revealing female garment was nothing extraordinary. In fact,
prudery came to India only after the tenth century, first in the
form of the Purdah with Muslim invaders, then Victorian values with
the colonizers.
This 'odhni' should be diaphanous, soft and billowing, conceal
and yet give away the curves and beauty of its wearer. In fact,
that is what the sari is supposed to do, and it does its job quite
well.
The sari is perhaps the only garment in the world that can make
its wearer look modest and demure while baring the midriff,
outlining the hips and draping sensuously around the curve of the
waist, What is revealed is much more than what is concealed, the
modesty is retained and the sensuousness is effectively conveyed.
What better statement of fashion does one need?
Do you think traditional apparel is more graceful than
contemporary designs?
Yes, after all, they have centuries of designing behind themNo,
modern clothes are more functionalIt depends on the occasionWho
wants to be traditional in these racy times?Read more at Buzzle:
http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/2-19-2004-50775.asp