Tambour, aari, zalakdosi, resht, rashti and tambour are a few of
the many names used to refer to embroidery done with a sharpened
hook in such a way that the pattern is executed with a chain
stitch
An Overview of Hook Embroidery 1By Safiya bint Suleiman
al-MuAlima, O. L. mka Maya Heath
An Overview of Hook Embroidery
Tambour, aari, zalakdosi, resht, rashti and tambour are a few of
the many names used to refer to embroidery done with a sharpened
hook in such a way that the pattern is executed with a chain
stitch. This technique is used either by itself or with other
stitches and techniques such as appliqu on a variety of ground
fabrics from transparent gauze to canvas, felt and leather. It is
used on clothing, household goods such as cushion covers, wall
hangings, and floor coverings, to decorative horse trappings. It
can be dated as early as the 7th century CE to the current
day.Background and History -
Hook embroidery can be dated to as early as the 7th century CE
in Central Asia and Persia.
Silk damask with embroidered ducks, Central Asia, 7th8th century
Textiles from the regions along the Silk Road play an important
role in the newly furnished permanent exhibition. This red silk was
woven in China and embroidered in Central Asia with stylised duck
motifs that may be traced back to Persian prototypes, thus
documenting the exchange of goods and motifs between east and west.
Abegg-Stiftung, CH-3132 Riggisberg (photo: Christoph von Virg)
By the 9th century CE it can be found in Egypt, in pieces
thought to be imported from Persia or made in Egypt for import to
the Persian market.Base fabric: linenEmbroidery: wool &
cottonStitch chain stitchTissus d'Egypte, Temoins du Monde Arabe
VIIIe-XVe siecles, Collection Bouvier, Muse d'art et d'histoire
Fribourg, Genve and Institut du monde arabe, Paris. 1993.
Fig. 175-177 pp. 277-280
Egypt - 12th Century CE
Base fabric: linenEmbroidery: wool & cottonStitch chain
stitch with woven stitch backgroundingTissus d'Egypte, Temoins du
Monde Arabe VIIIe-XVe siecles, Collection Bouvier, Muse d'art et
d'histoire Fribourg, Genve and Institut du monde arabe, Paris.
1993.
Fig. 178 p. 281
In the 16th century, in the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar,
his chronicler Abu al-Fazl ibn Mubarak wrote in the famous
Ain-i-Akbari: "His majesty (Akbar) pays much attention to various
stuffs; hence Irani, Ottoman, and Mongolian articles of wear are in
much abundance especially textiles embroidered in the patterns of
Nakshi, Saadi, Chikhan, Ari, Zardozi, Wasli, Gota and Kohra. The
imperial workshops in the towns of Lahore, Agra, Fatehpur and
Ahmedabad turn out many masterpieces of workmanship in fabrics, and
the figures and patterns, knots and variety of fashions which now
prevail astonish even the most experienced travelers. Taste for
fine material has since become general, and the drapery of
embroidered fabrics used at feasts surpasses every
description."
In the 16th century made its way into northern India with the
Mughal invaders, both as a fabric embroidery and as embroidery and
appliqu on leather called mochi bharat. Saudi Aramco World: Mughal
Maal, July-August 2011
As a technique used in Central Asia and Persia, hook embroidery
is used in horse trappings, wall and floor coverings, and tent
panels. It is still used today in the making of suzanis, made by
the nomadic peoples of central Asian.
Traditional 19th Century Persian Saddle cover and detail showing
use of hook embroidery with appliqu.
Silk on wool
Persian Rugs: Notes on Resht Textiles, Barry OConnell,
http://www.persiancarpetguide.com/sw-asia/Rugs/Persian/Resht/Resht.htm.
Accessed: 3-1-14
Metropolitan Museum of Art Heilbrun Timeline of Art History -
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/10/wai/ho_10.33.1.htmAccessed:
4-5-09
Young prince Gujarat 19th C. - Zardosi
Namba traditional felted carpet Kashmir
Hand embroidery Aari Kaam using colorful dyed threads andthe
aari needle is carried out if the Namda is a traditional one. There
are also examples of somebeautifully crafted carpets by stitching
the pieces of old worn out Namdas together, with
appliqutechnique.
In central Asia, hook embroidery is worked into traditional wall
hangins and furniture covers called suzanis. Often worked in
combination with appliqu and couching, it can be done on a large
frame or in-hand.
Expansion of trade with Europe beginning in the 17th century
brought the technique to Europe through much of the 19th
century.
Madame Pompadour at her tambour frame.
Tambour Work Embroidery, 1730-1840 - There is only one stitch to
master in tambour embroidery. Instead of a needle, very fine, sharp
hook is punched through a tightly stretched fabric to catch a fine
thread from beneath and draw it up, creating a linked, chain
like stitch. The name "tambour work" comes from the way the
fabric is held taut between two round, fitted hoops, resembling the
head of a small drum, or tambour. (Demonstrating tambour work,
left, Janea Whitacre, mantua-maker from Colonial Williamsburg.)
1810-20 Regency Period Tambour work - detail
Techniques and Materials -
The ground fabric is stretch tightly over a frame sometimes a
slate frame, sometimes a round frame giving it an appearance
something like a drum or tambourine, hence its European term
tambour from the French meaning hand-held drum. On fine fabrics the
embroidery was executed with a fine iron hook very similar to a
crochet hook. When worked on stiff materials the work was held in
the hand rather than stretched on a frame and the needle was held
in an awl handle. The work is stretch tightly on a frame. It can
either be a square frame, such as a slate frame or a round one. In
either case it should be externally supported as the work is done
with one hand holding the hook above and the other below holding
the thread.
Traditional aari hooks are made of iron and wrapped in cord for
more comfort and a better grip.
Tambour hooks are set into a handle similar to a pin vise. The
hook is lined up with the tightening screw to allow the user to see
how the hook is oriented.
The basic tambour stitch is fairly simple. The thread is held
below the work and draw theough the fabric with the hook. As the
hook is inserted in the fabric, give a slight twist to the hook to
be sure the thread is completely secured in the hook before it is
drawn through.
A Mochi hook or Cobblers Hook is used for work on heavier
materials such as heavy canvas of leather. It is held in the palm
like an awl while the work is held in the hand rather than
stretched on a frame. A finger guard is worn on the under hand to
prevent the awl damaging the fingers.
Notes on the Use of the Hook in Indian Embroidery, Irwin, John
and Hanish, Barbara, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club,
Vol 53 (1970) ,
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/nb70_em1.pdf,
Accessed: 3-1-14
A Gallery of Vintage and Modern Tambour Hooks
Georgian Faux Ivory Lace Tambour Hook Circa Early to mid
1800s
Antique Dutch Hallmarked Sterling Silver Tambour Set w 3 Crochet
Hooks - Circa 1860
Agate Handled Crochet Hook - English - Circa 1870
Nine Assorted Tambour / Crochet Hooks 1800s
Contemporary Ivory Tambour Hooks by artist Phillip A.
Montgomery
Bibliography The Abegg-Stiftung, Riggisberg, welcomes visitors
from late April to early November-February 7, 2014 Abegg-Stiftung,
CH-3132 Riggisberg (photo: Christoph von Virg),
http://www.hali.com/news/the-abegg-stiftung-reopens-new-permanent-exhibition/,
Accessed: 2-27-14
The Abegg-Stiftung Museum,
http://www.abegg-stiftung.ch/e/museum/sonderaus/2011/text.html,
accessed. 2-28-14Artistic Fingers Blog, Anita,
http://artisticfingers.blogspot.com/
Roxane Farabi Shazadeh, The History of Persian Embroidery,
http://www.scapersianu.com/Class%20Notes/Persian%20Embroidery.pdf
Accessed: 3-1-14
Europes Asian Centuries: Trading Eurasia 1600-1830, Interview
with Kasan and Juma Sangar, University of Warwick,
http://www2.warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/ghcc/eac/oralhistoryproject/resources/kasamsangar/
Accessed: 3-1-14
Contemporary Uzbek Suzanis, Marla Mallett, Marla Mallett:
Textiles and Tribal Oriental Rugs,
http://www.marlamallett.com/suzanis.htm, Accessed
3-1-14Metropolitan Museum of Art Heilbrun Timeline of Art History -
Hanging, 19th centuryIran (Rasht),
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/10/wai/ho_10.33.1.htmAccessed:
4-5-09
Naik, Shailaja D., Traditional Embroideries of India, South Asia
Books (December 1996)
Notes on the Use of the Hook in Indian Embroidery, Irwin, John
and Hanish, Barbara, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club,
Vol 53 (1970) ,
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/nb70_em1.pdf,
Accessed: 3-1-14Persian Rugs: Notes on Resht Textiles, Barry
OConnell,
http://www.persiancarpetguide.com/sw-asia/Rugs/Persian/Resht/Resht.htm.
Accessed: 3-1-14
Saudi Aramco World: Mughal Maal,
https://www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/201104/mughal.maal.htm,
July-August 2011"Splendid Suzanis" written by Caroline Stone
(appeared on pages 6-13 on the July/August 2003 print edition of
Saudi Aramco World.Tissus d'Egypte, Temoins du Monde Arabe
VIIIe-XVe siecles, Collection Bouvier, Muse d'art et d'histoire
Fribourg, Genve and Institut du monde arabe, Paris. 1993
Using the Mochi Hook