Beauty | Skin camouflage U nlike cosmetic make-up, skin camouflage does not involve current trends or the ‘in look’, but the skilful application of camouflage products to blend a particular area into surrounding skin and careful communication with the client to ensure the result is achievable, realistic and natural. Building on the foundations A keen eye for colour to detect the undertone of the skin and establish subtle changes in base shades is imperative in a skin camouflage technician, as the main objective is to blend a specific area into the skin, balance out the skin tone and restore a natural vista to obtain an effective camouflage and seal. It is a common misperception that skin camouflage requires similar skills to those used to apply foundation. Typically, skin camouflage rarely involves an entire area; it is designed to cover a specific area and merge this to conceal the underlying patch. On occasions where the area is extensive it may be more prudent to apply the camouflage over the entire area. Foundation does not have the same desirable qualities required of a camouflage preparation, namely density of pigment, ability to resist water and remain waterproof, and durability to resist fading throughout the day. Nor will it necessarily provide the appropriate sunscreen protection necessary when covering an area of hypo- pigmentation for example. However, the client’s usual make-up may be applied over and around the camouflage area as required; in fact, as part of the aftercare advice, clients are often encouraged to emphasise and draw attention to another area or feature with cosmetic make-up to increase the overall effectiveness of the skin camouflage. Cover all the bases Skin camouflage can be applied for a number of reasons – from temporarily covering an undesirable feature, such as a bruise or a tattoo when wearing a gown to a ball, to concealing a more specific disorder, such as a couperose area on the cheek. Other reasons can be more complex and may involve teaching the client to apply skin camouflage techniques themselves, for instance to disguise healed scar tissue or pigment disorders, such as vitiligo. However, all instances demand a detailed and thorough consultation, to take into account such considerations as: l whether the area is stable and free from signs of infection, open wounds or inflammation; l any risk of bleeding from erythematose conditions; l if you need to refer the client to a doctor/ dermatologist; and l whether you are qualified to the correct level, experienced enough and confident to proceed. These are only a few of the many considerations – there are too many to be fully explored in this one article. Creating an illusion It is important that the client knows that a physical change is not possible with skin camouflage and there are limits on what can be achieved, but a reasonable illusion is often attainable. Communication is key to find out your client’s expectations and how realistic these are, and whether the skin camouflage is being performed as a one-off application or one that needs to be replicated by your client on a daily basis. Some clients will need empathy and understanding, others will require patience as you teach them the techniques, and your body language, tone of voice and approach are all important in this potentially life changing experience for your client. When applied well, the area will be concealed and merge with the surrounding skin. The success of the end result depends upon factors including the size of the area affected, the degree of variation from the natural tone and the contours of the area to be covered. Sunken or raised areas pose more of a challenge, and lights and darks may need reversing to create the illusion of flatness. This may be too complicated for your client to achieve every day and will depend upon their own skill at mastering the techniques. The size of the area may also dictate if further enhancement techniques need to be incorporated. Fake moles, freckles or veins achieved through the application of make-up over the skin camouflage may more successfully break up the area enabling it to blend into the surrounding limb. Male clients may also need to be taught how to stipple the growth of beard stubble in during the day using make- up over the skin camouflage. 18 Issue 100 April 2012 INTERNATIONAL THERAPIST www.fht.org.uk The client had dilated capillaries (telangiectases) distributed over the cheeks and nose, resulting in a permanent couperose condition, which has been exacerbated by sunbathing and an outdoor lifestyle. The area is stable. Reason for skin camouflage The client could not find an appropriate foundation to conceal the capillaries and when she found a reasonable match, the make-up did not last. She does not wear make-up every day, but would like to be able to conceal the area to achieve a bare-faced look. Case study B: All bases covered Cheryl Cole provides an introduction to skin camouflage and two case studies to demonstrate some of its different applications