Alex and Grant's Wilderness Survival Guide

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Alex Morton and Grant Laco’s Wilderness Survival Guide

Senior Program

Spring 2011

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Table of Contents Page 3: Introduction

Page 4-6: Pack List

Page 7-12: Camping Skills

Page 13-15: First Aid

Page 16-18: Hunting and Gathering

Page 16-17: Gathering

Page 18: Fishing

Page 19: Geography

Page 20-22: Wildlife

Page 23: Bibliography

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Introduction:

So, you want to paddle the Canadian Arctic Circle, eh? Well, so do we. In fact, neither of us has actually even been to the arctic circle--yet.

That’s why we’ve put together this handy guidebook for prospective arctic voyageurs like ourselves. These trips take months of planning, so we thought we’d help to manage your prep-work by recording everything we’ve learned in preparing for our looming expedition in one convenient guidebook.

Our goal with this project was to try to write the guidebook we wish we had during our preparation. We believe we’ve accomplished this goal, and we wish your wilderness experience to be as magnificent as possible.

Happy trails, - Alex and Grant

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Pack List: When going on a canoe trip to the Canadian Arctic Circle, or anywhere for that matter, it is essential that you bring the right type of clothing and gear for your surroundings. Failure to do so may seem insignificant now, but you won’t be able to go shopping in the middle of your trip. Not having the right gear can make what would otherwise be a great trip feel like a burden.

If you are starting from scratch, there are a few main things that you should not be afraid to spend a little extra money on in order to ensure the quality of the item. Maps – These can be tough to come by, especially for the more remote areas. But they are the most important item you pack. Try online map databases and map companies, odds are you will need to pay for them. Maps to the level of detail that will be necessary for your trip do not come free. However, leaving without them is a death trap. Hiking boots - These will be used for longer portages, and perhaps in-camp. Your feet are going to get wet, period. This is no real way of preventing this, other than being able to walk on water. You are going to want a pair of boots with rubber soles and high leather or nylon tops that will provide you with good ankle support. You will be carrying very heavy equipment on your back and you want to make sure you have the right support when climbing over tough terrain. If your feet are happy, you will be happy. Note: Always wear your hiking boots when you swim. An infected cut on your foot can be grounds for evacuation. Sleeping Bag - When choosing a sleeping bag, it really depends on your own preferences. You will want to know the average temperature of the area you are going to make sure you get a warm enough bag, but the rest will just require you actually getting in a few sleeping bags and testing them out. Down bags are generally more comfortable, but have very little resistance to water, so you MUST keep them dry. Synthetic bags are more rugged and dry faster, but sacrifice some comfort in the process. For the arctic, the best bags are usually in the zero degree through fifteen-degree range. It is also a nice thing to be able to compress your bag to a small size. Layers - When it comes to clothing, stay away from is cotton--it stretches, and dries slowly. Other than that, the most important thing is to have layers. On a really cold, rainy, windy day, layers of clothing will keep you warm—NOT large, bulky jackets/sweatshirts, as they get VERY heavy if they get wet. For a bottom layer, you will want something thin, like a t-shirt. For the next layers really any type of t-shirts or long sleeves (other than cotton) can work. Long underwear is highly recommended as a layer for lots of warmth. Remember; you can always take clothes off as you start getting too warm. The ideal top layer is a rain jacket, as it will keep the rest of your layers dry.

Bug jackets - In the Canadian Arctic, black flies and mosquitoes can be some of your worst enemies. Without the proper gear, you could spend your entire trip swatting at them and itching bites. The most important piece of bug gear you will want to get is a bug jacket or a bug hood. This will keep the biting bugs off of your face. Wearing any other type of clothing from the neck down will usually suffice in protecting you from bugs. The Original Bug Shirt Company is a great online resource to look for all of your bug repellent clothing, checking out their website is highly recommended.

Knee-high rubber boots - These are perhaps the most important thing to have a quality set of in the arctic. A good pair of knee-highs will provide a comfortable trip, as well as help you

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avoid frostbite/hypothermia and other cold and water-related issues. This is because you will often find yourself wading through icy water. If your boots do not properly repel water or if they are too open on the top (so that water would flood in if you submerge the knee), there will not always be a place to empty/dry/warm your feet. This is another item you should splurge on—spend less on other pack items if need be.

Tents - This is mostly personal preference. There is a huge array of tents on the market, and most of them are good quality. For a trip to the arctic, it is smart to use a more compact, round, lower to the ground tent. This is because the tundra is a flat, windy area. Something with a broad, flat side could act as a sail. Just make sure you get something large enough to accommodate all of you, and make sure you always pack and set up properly to avoid wear and tear. Directions for setting up/tearing will be found with whatever tent you happen to purchase.

Everything else - Although the following items are less critical, they are necessary for a comfortable and healthy trip. You want to remember that you will be carrying everything that you bring, so be wary of the weight of everything you pack. With that said, you also want to make sure to bring enough to keep you warm. Clothing: (Be smart- though you can’t do your laundry on trail, pack light. Bring only enough so that you’ll always have something to wear on trail, and you’ll always have something to wear in-camp. Not like you’re trying to impress anyone, right?) Athletic shoes (for in the campsite while on trail) Wool socks Fleece hat or equivalent Athletic shorts Long pants – Carhartts or polypropylene/cotton pants. NOT Jeans/Sweats. Long underwear shirt Swimsuit Sweater Heavy sweatshirt Neoprene paddling gloves (for warmth) T-shirts Underwear Hygiene Articles: Small ditty bag Shampoo Toothbrush Toothpaste Dental floss Washcloth or PackTowel Sunscreen Bug repellent Nalgene brand water bottle or equivalent Medicine Passports First aid kit (see first aid section) Food: Fire grate Spices

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Dehydrated food Lighters Recommended: cheese, summer sausage, peanut butter, Nutella, packaged candies Miscellaneous Items: Camera and film Journal for writing Cards, Hacky sack, games Compass “Crazy Creek” chair or equivalent Fishing rod & gear (bring money for license) Flashlight/headlamp & extra batteries Pens/pencils Books/field guide … or just this Wilderness Guide :) Sunglasses Baseball cap

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Basic Camping Skills: If you’re going on a trip to the Canadian Arctic, chances are you’ve been on at least a few other wilderness trips in your life. And yet, as we’ve found time and time again, it never hurts to brush up on those basic skills. To build a fire... -If there is no fire ring available, gather stones and try to at least build a wind barrier. -If available, try and find flammable things to get it started. Un-needed paper/cardboard, birch bark, and lichen are all excellent fire-starters. This will serve as your tinder. - Gather a large pile of assorted sizes of sticks and twigs for kindling. - Pile a small mound of whatever tinder you’re using in the center of your fire ring. Light this. - As your tinder burns, start adding small twigs. Add larger twigs as things start to catch. - If you are using the fire for cooking, balance your fire grate on your stones and continue to add small to medium size sticks as necessary. - If you are using the fire for warmth, add larger and larger sticks until you are burning full logs. These will serve as long-term fuel.

Source: http://www.waitingfornextyear.com/page/3/

HYGIENE: We know, it seems silly to write a section about how to brush your teeth and not be disgusting. However, it’s important to be hygienic in a particular manner when you are in the wilderness, because doing things as you do them at home could result in unneeded pollution, and leaving unwanted traces for future campers. Brushing teeth: -Try to find biodegradable/environmentally friendly toothpaste. Use only a small dab of it on your brush, and when you’re done make sure to satellite your spit. This means don’t spit a huge glob of toothpaste into the woods, as this can be unpleasant to look at and potentially

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toxic to whatever it lands on/whatever eats it. So, before you spit, take a swig of water and spray it far into the woods, away from the river and your tent. Going to the bathroom: - First off, trowels and TP are a matter of preference. Some people will say that trowels and toilet paper are necessary, but we think that not having these things adds to the experience. If you do bring TP, make sure it’s biodegradable; otherwise you need to carry your mess with you, or burn it... gross. If you don’t bring a trowel, make sure you cover your mess with a large rock or log—congratulations, you just helped fertilize the soil. As far as clean up sans toilet paper, look for any reliable leaves. You may need to double or triple up. Just make sure you aren’t using the baneberry leaf (see plant section).

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Paddle Strokes:

Flat water (lakes, rivers) and moving water (rapid sets): • Power stroke • J-Stroke • C-Stroke

Moving water (rapid sets): • Draw • Pry • Cross bows • Back paddle

How to hold the paddle:

Power Stroke:

• Push blade down under the water so that most of it is submerged with top hand, while pulling back with bottom hand.

• Try to keep your arms more or less straight. Some bending is okay, but the twisting of the torso is what will make the stroke effective.

• For the most effective power stroke, use quick, hard, short strokes. The majority of the propulsion from a power stroke is obtained at the start of the stroke, so when you really

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need to move, the complete follow-through will only slow you down. This is especially critical in whitewater.

• The person in the bow of the canoe almost exclusively uses this stroke on flat water, though it is useful for the sterner as well.

J-Stroke:

• This stroke sends water away from the stern of the canoe you are paddling on, so you will turn to the same side as the one you are paddling on.

• Hold paddle in basic position • Stroke as you would for a power stroke • At the end of your stroke, twist your top hand so that your thumb moves away from you

and push your blade out away from your canoe, with your bottom hand acting as a fulcrum.

• This stroke is used only by the person in the stern of the canoe. C-Stroke:

• Sends water towards the stern, to turn the canoe to the opposite side to the one you are paddling on.

• Hold paddle in basic position • Stroke as you would for a power stroke • At the end of your stroke, do the opposite of a J-stroke. Twist your top hand so your

thumb comes towards you. Push the top hand out so that your blade comes towards the stern with your bottom hand as a fulcrum.

• This stroke is used only by the sterner.

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Draw:

• This is a correction stroke. It does not propel the vessel forward at all, but rather turns the bow to the same side that person in the bow is paddling on.

• Hold paddle in the basic position, but with your torso twisted to face the side of the canoe you are paddling on, with your arms outstretched.

• Using mostly your bottom hand, pull the water in towards the canoe with the blade of the paddle.

• For a hard correction, you may need to use multiple draws in a row. To do this most efficiently, do not lift the paddle out of the water at the end of the stroke. Rather, twist the paddle so that the blade is perpendicular to the boat. Push the blade back out away from you, then twist back into another draw.

• This stroke is often used by the bow for fast corrections, especially in whitewater. However, the stern can also use this stroke in conjunction with the bow for a very sharp turn.

Crossbow Draw:

• The same thing as a draw, but on the other side of the canoe. This quickly turns the bow

in the opposite direction a regular draw would.

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• Without switching your hands, twist your torso to face the opposite side of the canoe that you are paddling on, with your arms outstretched.

• From this position, do a draw, or multiple draws in the same manner as you would a regular draw.

• This stroke is often used by the bow for fast corrections, especially in whitewater. However, the stern can also use this stroke in conjunction with the bow for a very sharp turn.

Pry:

• The same thing as a draw, but on the other side of the canoe. This quickly turns the bow

in the opposite direction a regular draw would. • Without switching your hands, twist your torso to face the opposite side of the canoe that

you are paddling on, with your arms outstretched. • From this position, do a draw, or multiple draws in the same manner as you would a

regular draw. • This stroke is often used by the bow for fast corrections, especially in whitewater.

However, the stern can also use this stroke in conjunction with the bow for a very sharp turn.

Back Paddle:

• The same thing as a draw, but on the other side of the canoe. This quickly turns the bow in the opposite direction a regular draw would.

• Without switching your hands, twist your torso to face the opposite side of the canoe that you are paddling on, with your arms outstretched.

• From this position, do a draw, or multiple draws in the same manner as you would a regular draw.

• This stroke is often used by the bow for fast corrections, especially in whitewater. However, the stern can also use this stroke in conjunction with the bow for a very sharp turn.

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First Aid: Kit essentials: SATELLITE PHONE (for evacuations if necessary) First Aid Instruction Book Basic bandages for blisters, sprains, or cuts Gauze CPR mask Iodine tablets (purifying water) Thermometers Cotton Balls Sun Screen Bug Repellent Insect sting relief Anti-Itch cream Tape, lots of tape Basic medications - anti-fungal cream, benadryl, pepto-bismol, ibuprophen, laxatives, anti-diahhreals, Tylenol, Aloe Basic first aid tools - scissors, tongue depressors, razor blade, knife, tweezers, splint, nail cutters, syringe Optional: Steri-strips Different sizes and types of bandages Hot/Cold - pack Icy Hot Gold Bond Lotion Sterile eye wash Saline solution Super glue *Note - before entering the wilderness you want to make sure at least one person in the trip is a certified Wilderness First Responder. You will be very isolated, and rescue may be multiple days away. IN CASE OF FAINTING: Check that the airway is open and the person is breathing. The tongue can likely block the airway, so watch for that. The airway can be cleared by tilting the head upwards. This action pulls the tongue away from the air passage in the throat. Move the unconscious and breathing person into the recovery position*: · Place him/her on his or her side, with their uppermost leg at a right angle to the body. Do not move anyone with a suspected neck or spinal injury. · Support the head by the hand of the uppermost arm. · Tilt the head back to ensure that the airway is clear.

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*Recovery position description courtesy of wilderness-survival-skills.com IN CASE OF BLEEDING: For minor cuts and wounds, you want to clean out the area with water to remove any dirt or anything that may cause the wound to get infected. Then bandage it up with the necessary band-aid. For larger cuts or gashes, you want to first start cleaning it out as best as possible. You want to then apply direct pressure to the area of the wound in attempt to stop bleeding. Raising the wound above your heart level. Gauze or a clean cloth should be place on top of the wound and then be wrapped with adhesive tape or some type of bandage. Until the wound starts to heal, you should try and prevent it from getting wet and the bandages should be changed at least once a day (may require to be changed more often depending on the size of the wound and the daily amount of bleeding) IN CASE OF SHOCK: Shock is a symptom of weakness, and occurs very frequently alongside other injuries. The best way to treat shock is nutrition, hydration, warmth, and comfort. Make sure any other more serious conditions are treated before you treat shock. IN CASE OF HYPOTHERMIA: The most important thing is warming the victim. Isolate him or her from any moisture and cold. If no sleeping bag/tent available, go anywhere dry and remove any wet clothes and replace with dry/warm ones. Otherwise, remove all wet clothes and get the victim into a sleeping bag or very warm/dry clothes. If necessary, use your own body heat to warm the victim. An effective way of doing this is to remove your clothes (underwear can stay on) and get into a sleeping bag with the victim. Hot drinks and sugar are also effective treatment. Be sure to take the victim’s temperature... if body temperature remains in the 80s or below, an evacuation may be necessary.

IN CASE OF SUNBURN: Treatment can vary depending on the severity of the burn. For mild burns, just drink lots of water, keep it out of the sun, and aloe never hurts. For moderate burns, do the same, but a bandage may be a good idea to prevent friction on the burn. For serious sunburns, where the skin begins to blister, make sure you put some sort of lotion or aloe on the burn, keep it out of the sun at all costs, and drink LOTS of water. Hydration is key to sunburn cure and sunburn prevention, so always stay hydrated. In the most severe cases of sunburn, an evacuation would be necessary, but hopefully you or a group member will have noticed your symptoms before it gets to that point.

IN CASE OF FISH HOOK PIERCING:

First off, before you start, you should DE-BARB YOUR HOOKS. This is so that they can be more easily removed in case one gets embedded in your skin. This can be done by squeezing the barb with a pair of heavy pliers. If you do get a fish hook stuck in your skin, there are many ways of getting it out. Before you start removal, do your best to cut off the circulation to whatever body part is jabbed. For example, if you get a hook stuck in your finger, try tying a string tightly around the base of your finger. This will make it so that removal will be less

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painful for the victim. The most basic methods are the retrograde technique and the string-yank technique.

The retrograde technique works well only if you have removed the barbs from the hooks! This is why you should remove the barbs, as the retrograde technique is the most basic technique. Downward pressure is applied to the hook as the hook is backed out of the point of entry.

Picture credit: Charles Boyter

If this doesn’t work, try the string-yank technique. This can be more useful if you have failed to remove the barb from your hook. Simply tie a string around the midpoint of the hook’s bend. Then press the top of the hook against your skin, and pull repeatedly and forcefully on the string while maintaining pressure on the hook.

Picture credit: Charles Boyter

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Hunting and Gathering: When going on one of these canoe trips, bringing your own food is very crucial, but if worse comes to worse and you get reduced to completely living off of the environment, you need to make sure you don’t end up eating something that kills you... that would be an unfortunate way to end a trip. Unless you have packed a hunting rifle or some animal traps, hunting in Canadian Arctic Circle will be a challenge. You will probably be better off looking around for some wild berries or plants, or fishing. Gathering It is best to have a detailed field guide about edible plants and berries of the area that you are going to. But if such a guide is not available, here are a few tips on gathering in the Tundra. As a general rule: ALMOST ALL vegetation in the tundra IS edible, with a few exceptions. Here are a few berries and herbs that might be useful to know of: A FEW PLANTS YOU CAN EAT The Bearberry This is a low growing plant that rises only a few inches off the ground. The plant has small oval leaves, red berries, and can have pink or white flowers. It can be readily found in dry areas with soil that contains very little nutrients. Bearberries actually have many practical uses. The berries can be eaten or mixed with other foods. The roots of the plants can be boiled with water to make a tea that can sooth the throat and prevent coughing. This tea can help to treat kidney and bladder problems. When searching for these berries, you should watch for bears. You wouldn’t want to be caught eating their berries, there’s a reason it’s called the bearberry!

The Bearberry The Cloudberry The Cloudberry is one of the most sought out berries. It is considered a delicacy in Scandinavian countries. They are made into jam, soups, and desserts. The plant grows on boggy land in cold climate areas. Cloudberries are closely related to raspberries, but look more like redder versions of blackberries. The berries ripen very slowly because of the cold climate, but as a result are a very soft and juicy berry. If you can find this berry on trail, be sure to stop and treat yourself.

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Cloudberries PLANTS THAT ARE POISONOUS The Baneberry The Baneberry will be the bane of your existence should you accidentally ingest it. It is one of the few poisonous plants in the tundra. Fortunately, accidental ingestion is unlikely due to the berries’ bitter nature. The baneberries themselves are small and red (or white) and grow in bunches, and they all have black dots on them. The Baneberry plant itself grows about 16 to 31 inches off the ground, and is comprised of coarse, toothy leaves. They are often topped with one to a few small white ornate flowers. The entire plant--including the flower--is poisonous. Just... stay away from this one. Note: If ingested, do not panic TOO much... just don’t eat any more. Two berries is about enough to kill a child, so for an adult, a berry or two would cause extreme nausea and dizziness, intestinal distress, and other problems, but most likely not death. Mushrooms Baneberry Though only a few species of mushroom in the arctic are actually poisonous, they are very tough to discern from the safe ones. Because of this, it is probably best to just stay away from mushrooms in general, because they hold little to no nutritional value and are not worth the risk.

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Fishing First off, DE-BARB YOUR HOOKS. This is an essential safety tip. As a result, you might lose a few extra fish, but trust me, there will be plenty more that you will successfully catch. You should take the barbs off so that if they do get stuck in your skin, they can be more easily removed.

The most common river fish you will catch will be Arctic Char, Grayling, Northern Pike, and Lake Trout. Northern Pikes are an absolute pain to fillet, and quite frankly, they are not very practical. Though fun to catch—especially larger ones—the meat yield is relatively low for how difficult they are to clean. Because of this, you should honestly throw back any pikes you catch. Other than that, though, go to town. Grayling and Trout especially are very easy to catch in the arctic, and most of them will be very large. They are also all very easy to fillet. Fishing in the arctic will be an absolute pleasure, and something you should definitely try your hand at. Prime spots to throw your line in are shady, shallow areas and eddies (the churning water immediately below rapid sets).

Arctic Char

Grayling

Lake Trout

Northern Pike

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Geography: Because of its enormous size, Canada contains many different and diverse biomes and ecosystems. From lakes and rivers, to tall mountains and low valleys, Canada’s six different time zones has it all. However the provinces of Nunavut and the Northwest territories, both part of the Arctic Circle, are mostly tundra containing a layer of permafrost (subsurface land that never completely thaws in the summer). The tundra biome is a low nutrients area with a short growing season. The area contains very little trees and simple vegetation, because the area is above the treeline (the elevation where trees can no longer grow due to the environmental conditions). The biome has many lakes and rivers that freeze during the winter. Water temperature will stay very cold, even in the summer. Meteorology/climate: As you can imagine, the temperature in the Canadian Arctic Circle is relatively chilly year-round. There is little precipitation with much of it being in the form of snow. The winters are very long, with little sunlight and extremely low temperatures. The summers on the other hand are short, with mild temperatures and sunlight almost twenty four hours a day. The wind can be very strong, especially on large lakes, so when creating your route be mindful of giving yourself enough extra time in case you get wind-bound.

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Wildlife: Larger animals: The Northwest Territories are home to many large animals, such as: Barren-ground caribou. Both the males and females have antlers. The coat of the caribou is brown in the warmer months, and much lighter in the winter. The neck and rump are a creamy-white colour. Caribou are the most prevalent large animal in the Canadian arctic, with some herds containing thousands of caribou alone.

Muskoxen The muskox is a shaggy, bovine looking animal with large horns. The male will generally have larger horns than the female. The muzzle of the muskox is white. Male muskoxen give off a musky odor to attract females, hence the name of the species.

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Moose Moose are the largest member of the deer family and can reach up to 1,400 pounds in weight. The males have large antlers and the females look more like a donkey. They have dense coats that are usually dark to light brown in color. They tend to stay in the cover of forest but will venture out for food and water. Fun fact: when in the water, the moose will always swim straight, and it is strong enough to swim with a human on top of it. Don’t get any ideas... (Do it. Ride the moose.)

Wolverines The wolverine is essentially a cross between a huge weasel and a tiny bear. They are about the size of a medium-sized dog. They live on land, despite their relation to marine animals such as the otter. They are ravenous carnivores with the capability to kill animals many times larger then themselves, so don’t get too close to these cute animals. Nothing ruins an arctic voyage quite like getting mauled by a wolverine.

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Wolves Wolves are relatively common in the arctic, and can often be seen trailing large herds of caribou in packs. They are a large member of the canine family. They will usually steer clear of humans, but you should do the same for them--though uncommon, there are records of wolves attacking humans.

There are also smaller numbers of Woodland caribou, Dall's sheep, bears (polar, black, and grizzly), bison, and mountain goats. Birds: Prevalent birds in this area include Grouse, ptarmigan, phalarope, Pacific loon, and peregrine falcon.

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"Thelon Wildlife Sanctuary, Musk Ox Polar Bear viewing, Musk oxen wildlife sanctuary, Canadian national park, caribou migration, hiking canoeing kayaking ecotours, adventure eco tourism eco tour." Baker Lake Nunavut hotel, Inns North Iglu hotel, Arctic accommodations, nunavut lodging, Arctic Canada hotel, Inuit owned and operated hotel.. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 June 2011. <http://www.bakerlakehotel.com/thelon-wildlife-sanctuary.htm>.

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“Boyter, Charles. Retrograde Hook Removal. Digital image. AAFP. American Academy of Family Physicians, 2000. Web. 3 June 2011. <http://www.aafp.org/afp/2001/0601/p2231>.