• Founded in 1967 in Sweden • International beauty company selling direct • Portfolio of approx. 1,000 cosmetics products • €1.4 billion /7300 employees • 3.5 million Oriflame Consultants • Catalogues (150M) distributed in 40 languages • 90% of all Oriflame Consultants in many markets using online tools • Sustainability: long-term commitment
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Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB
New Technologies & Active Ingredients: Plant stem cells & Sustainability
Critically analysing the sustainability benefits and accompanied challenges and limitation Future outlook for plant stem cells in cosmetics
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• Founded in 1967 in Sweden
• International beauty company selling direct
• Portfolio of approx. 1,000 cosmetics products
• €1.4 billion /7300 employees
• 3.5 million Oriflame Consultants
• Catalogues (150M) distributed in 40 languages
• 90% of all Oriflame Consultants in many markets using online tools
• Sustainability: long-term commitment
PLANT STEM CELLS
Alain Mavon, Ph.D
AN ‘ON TREND’ & SUSTAINABLE SOURCE OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
May 21-23,Roma, Italy
Mibelle, 2008 PhytocellTechTM
of malus domestica
2% extract reduced by 15% wrinkles in a month”
AN APPLE A DAY MAY KEEP WRINKLES AWAY …!
”3lab immediatly put the apple-stem cell extract in its Deluxe M Cream, out this month ….
Lancôme tweaked its own version of the apple complex in the new Absolue Precious cell …
For a more recession friendly, Lumene, offers its new ExCELLent Future Deep Repairing Cream, just under $30 ”
- Sarah Brown, VOGUE US, Nov 2009, p 154 -
Created the buzz …....!
I Can’t Believe The Hype – Beauty Products With Plant Stem Cells …!
Posted: 06/30/10
“Plant stem cell is the most advanced scientific innovation that reverses the signs of skin aging
through the power of cell regeneration”Global Cosmeceuticals Market Outlook 2016, Feb. 2013
…. ALTHOUGH STILL LACKING RIGOROUS DATA OF EXTENSIVE HUMAN STUDIES AND RESEARCH ON STEM CELLS, INTEREST CONTINUES TO RISENext Generation Cosmeceuticals, S. Malerich, D. Berson, Dermatol Clin 32 (2014) 13-21
Power Plant - Sustainability, because farming isn’t involved fewer natural resources are needed. - April Long, ELLE, Skin Care, Feb. 26, 2013 -
IM-MORTAL : theoritical ability to an unlimited number of division
Shoots - Roots
Meristems
PLANT STEM CELLS SOURCE OF PLANT GROWTH & RENEWAL
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PLANT STEM CELLSBIOTECHNOLOGIES
… ACCESS TO “SECONDARY METABOLITES”
… are low molecular weight compounds that aid in the adaptation of the plant to their environnement.
Because of their siginificant biological activity, plant secondary metabolites have been used in traditional medecine for centuries.
Plant secondary metabolites
Initiation, growth and cryopreservation of plant cell suspension culturesN.R. Mustafa, Nature Protocols 6, 715–742 2011
PLANTLETS and CALLUS
Mother cultures
Callus induction/
growth
Cell Suspension/
inductionUp-scaling Production
Loss of productivity over time Spontaneous genetic variation of suspension cultures Shear sensitivity, slow growth rates, low oxygen requirementLow content of secondary complex metabolites
Recent advances towards development and commercialization of plant cell culture processes for the synthesis of biomolecules, S. Wilson & S Roberts, Plant Biotech. J., 10, 249 -268, 2012.
About 250 kg
Today’s production is based on plant stem cell
in 75,000 liters’ bioreactors
Bio-guided elicitation (anti-oxidant in tubo assay)
Jasmonic Acid or Me Jasmonate
Unpublished data, Oriflame, 2013
Extract of reference -Green Tea
Cultured cambial meristematic cells as a source of plant natural products, E.K. Lee et al. Nature Biotech 28, 1213-17 (2010) & Plant natural products from cultured multipotent cells S. Roberts et.al.
Nature Biotech 28, 1175-76 (2010)
Cambial Meristematic Cells C.M.C.
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Cultivation of rare / protected species No overexploitation of land
No seasonal / geographical variation of crop No pesticides, fertilisers, heavy metals or GMO
Less water & energy consumption Local sourcing & simplified harvesting