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Aging Well, Advances & Treatments
Navin Geria
Chemical Publishing Co., Inc
Aging Well, Advances & Treatments
© 2019 Chemical Publishing Co., Inc. All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Chemical Publishing Company, through email at:
The publisher and the author make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation, warranties of fitness for a particular purpose.
ISBN: 978-0-8206-0411-4
Chemical Publishing Company:www.chemical-publishing.com
Printed in the United States of America
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 1Chapter 1 MUST WE AGE SO QUICKLY? 3
Wrinkle Types 3What Causes Wrinkles? 4Good-for-You Ingredients 4Anatomy of Formulation 5
Chapter 2 ARE HIGH-PRICED COSMETICS REALLY WORTH THE PRICE? 6Cost and Efficacy 6Are They Worth It? 8References 9
RESEARCH 11Chapter 3 SIRTUINS, A BREAKTHROUGH IN ANTI-AGING MARKERS 13
Composition 13Benefits 14Production 14Resveratrol 14Dermatologists’ Views 14Other Developments 15References 15
Chapter 4 THE TRUTH ABOUT TELOMERES 16A Cause of Aging 17Breakthrough Research 17Telomerase Activators 18Impact on Aging 18
Chapter 5 UNEXPECTED ANTI-AGING BENEFITS FROM ALZHEIMER’S TREATMENT 19Improved Gene Expression 20
Chapter 6 UNDERSTANDING HOW COLLAGEN HELPS HEALTHY LOOKING SKIN 21Collagen’s Make-Up 22Topical Topics 23The Role of Supplements 23Medical Procedures 24Conclusions 24References: 24
Chapter 7 NOVEL LIGHT TECHNOLOGY REJUVENATES SKIN 25Photobiology 25
Dermatology 26FDA and Innovations 26Devices 26
Chapter 8 DNA REPAIR IS THE NEW ANTI-AGING FRONTIER 28DNA Damage and Repair 28A Lot of Skeptics 29
Chapter 9 THE ROLE OF FREE RADICALS IN THE AGING PROCESS 30Multi-site Damages 30Damage Prevention Strategies 31Conclusion 32References 32
Chapter 10 A REVIEW OF ANTI-AGING DEVICE TECHNOLOGIES 33Conclusions 35
Chapter 11 UNDERSTANDING THE ROLE OF POLLUTION IN SKIN AGING 36Effects on Skin 37What Works? 38
Chapter 12 CYTOMIMIC TECHNOLOGY 39Bioelectricity and Communication 40How It Works 40Clinical Studies 40Conclusion 41Reference 41
Chapter 13 UNDERSTANDING THE MARKERS OF SKIN AGING 42Chapter 14 HOW NANOTECHNOLOGY
ENHANCES ANTI-AGING PRODUCT EFFICACY 44Are They Safe? 45Conclusion 46References: 46
Chapter 15 GOOD SKIN TONE REMAINS A GLOBAL BEAUTY ATTRIBUTE 47Beauty Perception 48Derms’ Recommendations 48Conclusions 49References: 49
Chapter 16 INFLAMMATION’S CONFLICTING ROLE IN BEAUTY & AGING 50Inflammation and Beauty 51Inflammation and Aging 51Our anti-aging 51Topical and Oral Anti-Inflammatories 52References: 52
Chapter 17 THE BENEFITS OF AYURVEDIC ANTI-AGING REGIMENS 53Mind-Body Classifications 53
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Body Treatments 54Skin Types 55Some Concerns 56References: 56
Chapter 18 ANTI-AGING AND AYURVEDA ARE PART OF WELL-BEING 57Well-Guarded Secrets 58Off to Detox! 58
Chapter 19 TERMINALIA: AN AYURVEDIC SUPER ANTI-AGER? 60Clinical Studies 61Antioxidant-Rich Triphala 61Conclusions 62References: 62
Chapter 20 MIT ADDS A NEW WRINKLE TO ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGY 63Human Trials 63Cautiously Optimistic 64References: 65
Chapter 21 ARE NEW FORMS OF MELANIN ON THE HORIZON? 66Natural and Synthetic 67Sun Care Applications 67Conclusion 68References: 68
Chapter 22 A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES 69What Consumers Want 69New Actives 72Botanicals 72
Chapter 23 A LOT OF NEW WRINKLES IN THE ANTI-AGING SEGMENT 74Fighting Aging 74Effective Anti-aging Actives 75Anti-aging Products 76Aging Phenomena Observations 76Dermatological Treatments 77Forces at Work 78Mass and Prestige Brands 78Conclusions 79
Chapter 24 REVIEWING RECENT ANTI-AGING DEVELOPMENTS 80References: 82
Chapter 25 NEW IDEAS IN SKIN CARE 83Novel Products 84Novel Procedures 84
Chapter 26 THE MICROBIOME’S IMPACT ON SKIN CARE FORMULATIONS 86 The Microbiome’s Impact On Skin Care Formulations 86
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Terms to Know 86Microbiome and Skin Health 87Lift All Boats 88On the Market 89Early Distant Warning 89
Chapter 27 UNDERSTANDING THE CONSUMER’S QUEST FOR IMMORTALITY 91Far-Out Strategies 91More Ideas 92Traditional Pharma Solutions 92References: 93
Chapter 28 ARE NEW FORMS OF MELANIN ON THE HORIZON? 94Natural and Synthetic 94Sun Care Applications 95Conclusion 95References: 95
Chapter 29 HEALTH BENEFITS OF MITOQ ANTIOXIDANT TECHNOLOGY 96Mitochondria 96Benefits 97Remarks 97References: 98
Cosmeceuticals 99Chapter 30 EXPLORING THE VERSATILITY OF FRENCH
MARITIME PINE BARK 101References: 103
Chapter 31 A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES 104What Consumers Want 104Botanicals 107
Chapter 32 LOOKING FOR BETTER SKIN? THEN JUST ADD WATER! 109Regulatory Issues 110What Drives the Claims? 110How Do They Work? 111
Chapter 33 REMARKABLE RETINOID 112Effectiveness 113Some Caveats 113
Chapter 34 COTTON THISTLE SHOWS PROMISE AS SKIN REPAIR COSMECEUTICAL 115Conclusions 116References 116
Chapter 35 THE ROLE OF PHYTOSTEROLS IN COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS 117Clinical Studies 117
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Formulations and Claims 118Chapter 36 BEAUTY AND THE BEACH: WONDERS
FROM THE SEA 119The Dead Sea Thrives 120A Range of Uses 120Anti-aging Actives 121An Effective Cellulite Treatment 122A Powerful Antioxidant 123References: 124
Chapter 37 ANTI-AGING SUPPLEMENTS FINALLY COME OF AGE 125
Chapter 38 THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF MATRIXYL SUBSTANTIATED 129A Brief Background 129Summary 131References 131
Chapter 39 PROMISING COSMECEUTIC 132Efficacy 132Antioxidants 132Retinoids 133Peptides 133Skin Lighteners 133Hydroxy Acids 134References: 134
Chapter 40 UNDERSTANDING THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF NUTRICOSMETIC 135Categories 135Efficacy Claims 136Benefits 137Dermatologists 138Conclusions 138Reference 138
Chapter 41 THE ANTI-AGING POWER OF TOPICAL VITAMIN 139References: 141
Chapter 42 UNDERSTANDING THE ANTI-AGING POWER OF PEPTIDES 142Some Key Peptides 143Efficacy 143Claims 143Conclusion 144Reference: 144
Chapter 43 THERE ARE NO NEGATIVES REGARDING ANTIOXIDANTS 145Oxidation Basics 145Antioxidants (Topical) 145Antioxidants (Botanical) 146Free Radicals and Aging 147
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Topical Benefits 148Effective Skin 148Conclusion 148References 149
Chapter 44 DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN? 150Stem Cells in Skin 150Stem Cells and Aging 151High-Priced Products 151Actives and Claims 152How it Works 152Discussion 153Storage Banks 154Apple Stem Cells 154References: 155
Chapter 45 ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF ASCORBIC ACID 156Product Development 157Efficacy & Benefits 157References: 158
Chapter 46 SKIN LIGHTENING PROPERTIES OF ASCORBIC ACID 159Skin Lightening 159Formulations 160References: 160
Chapter 47 THE HEALTH & BEAUTY BENEFITS OF ASTAXANTHIN 161Chemistry 161Antioxidant Benefits 161Product Development 162Health Benefits 162Wrinkle Reduction 162Conclusion 164References 164
Chapter 48 A ‘STINGING’ ENDORSEMENT FOR HONEY AND BEE VENOM 165A Honey of an Ingredient 165The Doctors’ Opinion 166References 167
Chapter 49 UNDERSTANDING RESVERATROL AS TOPICAL SKIN BRIGHTENERS 168Composition and Formulation 169In-Vivo Efficacy 169References: 169
Chapter 50 AGE-OLD POMEGRANATE HAS ANTI-AGING BENEFITS 170Composition 170Benefits 171
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References 171Chapter 51 DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO
YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN? 172Stem Cells in Skin 172Stem Cells and Aging 173High-Priced Products 173Actives and Claims 173How it Works 174Discussion 175Storage Banks 175Apple Stem Cells 175References: 176
Chapter 52 NEW ANTI-AGING BENEFITS EMERGE FOR PROBIOTICS 177Products and Claims 177The Doctors’ Opinions 178Research Studies 178More Research Is Needed 179Health and Beauty Benefits of Curcumin 179Conclusion 180References: 181
Chapter 53 UNDERSTANDING ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF MUSHROOMS 182Anti-Aging Properties 182Health Benefits 183Dermatological Use 183Commercial Use 183The Bizarre for the Beautiful 184The Benefits of Snake Venom 184Bizarre Spa Treatments 185Fish Food 186Conclusions 186
Chapter 54 SIFTING THROUGH AN ALPHABET OF TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANTS 187Assorted Antioxidants 187Mechanism of Action 189Blocking the Reaction 189
Chapter 55 THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF HYALURONIC ACID 190Dermatologicals 190More Details 191Conclusions 191References: 191
Chapter 56 PROBIOTICS PLAY A KEY ROLE IN MAINTAINING SKIN HEALTH 192Clinical Studies 192Products and Benefits 193
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More Study Ahead 194References 194
Chapter 57 QUESTIONS ARISE OVER PLANT STEM CELLS 195Human-based Cells 195Plant-based Stem Cells 195Conclusion 196References: 196
Chapter 58 UNDERSTANDING HOW COLLAGEN HELPS HEALTHY LOOKING SKIN 197Collagen’s Make-Up 197Topical Topics 198The Role of Supplements 199Medical Procedures 199Conclusions 200References: 200
Chapter 59 CANNABIDIOL GETS HIGH MARKS FOR COSMETICS FORMULAS 201Personal Care Uses 200Grow Your Own 202Trials 203Regulators Weigh In 203
PRODUCT 205Chapter 60 CAN YOU DIMINISH SKIN PORES? 207
Proper Treatment 208Other Solutions 208
Chapter 61 FORMULATORS STRIKE IT RICH WITH OIL-BASED PRODUCTS 210An Array of Benefits 211Oil Options 211References: 212
Chapter 62 NATRAGEL DELIVERY SYSTEM HAS ANTI-AGING BENEFITS 213A New Idea from Gel Concepts 214How Does it Work? 214Cosmeceuticals 214 NatraGel has applications in body and facial treatments. 214References: 214
Chapter 63 JUST HOW EFFECTIVE ARE ANTI-GLYCATION PRODUCTS? 215Signs of the Times 215Anti-Glycation Methods 215What’s Out There? 216References: 217
Chapter 64 WATER-ENRICHED MOISTURIZERS MAKE A BIG SPLASH! 218
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What’s Inside Counts! 219Chapter 65 TAKING A CLOSER LOOK AT
EYE-AREA TREATMENTS 221Causes of Dark Circles 221Active Materials 222Treatments 222Prevention and Treatment 222Surgical Treatments 224Makeup Works Too! 225
Chapter 66 BANISH DARK CIRCLES AND PUFFY BAGS 226Cause and Effect 227What’s Out There? 227More Topical Ideas 227
Chapter 67 CELLULITE AND SKIN AGING 229What is Cellulite? 229Causes of Cellulite 230Some Misperceptions 232Topical Ingredients 233Dietary Supplements 233References: 233
Chapter 68 EXFOLIANTS PLAY KEY ROLE IN ACHIEVING HEALTHY SKIN 234Physical & Chemical Exfoliants 234Enzyme Power 236Professional Procedures 236
Chapter 69 HOW ACIDS ENHANCE ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS 238Types of Acid 239The Exfoliators 239The Brighteners 239The Hydrators 240The Anti-Agers 240
Chapter 70 GREEN, BLACK OR WHITE IT FITS BEAUTY TO A ‘T’ 242Fermentation Process 242Active Components 243Beauty Benefits 244Caution 244Conclusions 244References: 245
Chapter 71 WHAT’S BEHIND THE POPULARITY OF TODAY’S FACIAL MASKS? 246The Clay’s the Thing 247An Array of Benefits 247What’s Next? 248
Chapter 72 AGING AND BROWN SPOTS 249Solutions for Brown Spots? 249Procedures 251
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Why All Those Spots? 252References: 252
Chapter 73 NIGHT CREAMS: A DREAM COME TRUE OR NIGHTMARE? 253The Dermatologists’ View 253Reinforcing the Barrier 254Solid Support 254
Chapter 74 GLYCATION’S ROLE IN SKIN AGIN 256The Doctors’ Opinions 257More Study Is Needed 257References: 258
Chapter 75 A RANGE OF PRODUCTS THAT PROMISE TO TREAT CELLULITE 259It’s a Wrap! 260A Controversial Treatment 260Heat Treatments 261Other Treatments Include 261Conclusions 262References: 262
Chapter 76 GENOMIC-BASED ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS HOPE OR HYPE? 263Available Products 264Conclusions 264
Chapter 77 AT-HOME FACIAL PEELS ENTER THE MAINSTREAM 266An Array of Choices 266Exfoliation Methods 266At-Home Product Offerings 267Avon Anew Clinical 268Lancôme Resurface Peel 268Ellen Lange Retexturizing Kit 268MD Skincare Daily Facial Peel 269DDF 7-Day Radiance Peel Kit 269Therapy Systems 269Conclusion 269References: 269
Chapter 78 ENHANCING THE PROPERTIES OF ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS 270A Growing Market 270Formulation Challenges 271Liponyl N30 SA 271References: 272
Chapter 79 THERE WILL BE BLOOD; A NEW IDEA IN ANTI-AGING 273Benefits in Blood 273A Natural Ingredient! 274
Chapter 80 PROBIOTICS PLAY A KEY ROLE IN MAINTAINING SKIN HEALTH 275
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Clinical Studies 275Products and Benefits 276More Study Ahead 277References: 277
Chapter 81 GOOD SKIN TONE REMAINS A GLOBAL BEAUTY ATTRIBUTE 278Beauty Perception 279Derms’ Recommendations 279Conclusions 280References: 281
Chapter 82 FROM THE INSIDE-OUT: BEAUTY SUPPLEMENTS 282Market Demand 282Hot Anti-Aging Actives 283Vitamins Improve Skin 284Global Launches 285Professional Views 286Benefits and Side Effects 286Ayurvedic Controversies 287Summary 287
Chapter 83 SEVERAL VERY BIG BEAUTY BENEFITS ARE DERIVED FROM MICRONUTRIENTS 289A Penny for Your Thoughts? 290
CLINICAL 291Chapter 84 CLINICAL STUDIES REVEAL
COSMECEUTICALS’ BENEFITS 293Alpha Lipoic Acid 293Collagen Synthesis 294Vitamin C & E Synergies 294Vitamin A and E Synergies 295Grapeseed Extract 295Proanthocyanidins 296References: 296
Chapter 85 ACAI’S ANTI-AGING CLAIMS GO UNDER THE MICROSCOPE 297Free Radical Damage 297Study Protocol 297Researchers and Efficacy 298Some Brands 298
Chapter 86 SKIN ANALYZERS SHINE LIGHT ON AGING AND UV DAMAGE 299Key Skin Analyzers 299References: 300
Chapter 87 UNDERSTANDING FORMULATION AND EFFICACY OF ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZERS 301Formulation 301Actives 302
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Ongoing Research 302Improving Efficacy 303References: 304
INTRODUCTION
3
Chapter 1
MUST WE AGE SO QUICKLY?
WHO hasn’t been in awe of the “newness” of a baby’s skin? Skin begins its lifelong journey soft, silky and smooth, and, when insulted, quickly regains its bounce and plumpness. It does not depend on any wonder
cream or lotion for its lovely smooth texture. Alas, all this gradually changes with age. Each decade of life changes skin in basically two ways, namely: intrinsic and extrinsic. Intrinsic changes are determined by genetic predisposition of your skin. Some skin looks young even when it is 50 or 60 years old, while some skin wrinkles at relatively young age—proving that wrinkling and aging are not synonymous. Wrinkle formation is affected by what skin care products you choose, regular use of sunscreens and other healthy habits.
Wrinkle TypesBroadly defined, there are three kinds of wrinkles—fine, expression and deep. Fine wrinkles generally appear in the mid-20s as very small fine lines due to sun exposure. Moisturizers, peels, micro-dermabrasion and laser treatments are used to treat fine wrinkles and sun damage.
Expression wrinkles begin to appear in the mid-30s to 50s, and are also known as crow’s feet and frown lines. Facial muscle movements over time create these expression lines. Botox and Botox-like topical products are favorite treatments.
Deep wrinkles usually appear in the mid-40s to 60s, and their severity depends on genetics, age, health habits and sun exposure. Most topical products can’t reverse these wrinkles, but with continuous use over a 90-day period, they can lead to minor improvements. For better results, more consumers are turning to laser resurfacing and collagen injections
The alpha and the omega. Aging is inevitable, but there are ways to slow the process.
4 MUST WE AGE SO QUICKLY?
What Causes Wrinkles?Excessive UV exposure is the primary cause of premature aging. Other causes include atmospheric pollution, smoking, diet and alcohol abuse, the latter of which often enlarges blood vessels causing facial redness and spider veins. Excess alcohol also depletes absorption of some vitamins and nutrients that are essential for good skin health. Premature aging makes the skin appear coarse, dull and leathery.
Good-for-You IngredientsIn the war on aging, two classes of ingredients are most important. Antioxidants fight free radical damage and sunscreens prevent photoaging. There are three major categories of ingredients: antioxidants, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging. Key antioxidants include: green tea (EGCG), vitamin C, alpha lipoic acid, vitamin E, lycopene, lutein (oral), coenzymeQ10, idebenone, silymarin, feverfew and soy flavonoids.
Key anti-inflammatories include licorice extract, licohalone, cucumber, colloidal oatmeal (an FDA-approved skin protectant), niacinamide (which cannot be synthesized in skin cells), bisabolol, aloe vera and gotu kola.
Key anti-aging ingredients include antioxidants, vitamin C, palmitoyl pentapeptides, kinetin, co-enzyme Q10, retinoid, idebenone, tocopherol, ubiquinone, azaleic acid, tyrosine, acetyl L-carnitine, chromium picolinate, DMAE, gamma linoleic acid, alpha lipoic acid and conjugated linoleic acid.
Here is an overview of how several cosmetic ingredients and procedures play a role in cosmetic formulations.
Sunscreens. Sun damage is responsible for most wrinkles. This damage occurs via UVA and UVB light radiation. Daily use of moisturizing sunscreen (at least SPF 15) on the face, neck, arms, and hands, provide adequate protection from sun damage.
Moisturizers. Provide an occlusive barrier on the skin to reduce transepidermal water loss. Some also work as humectants by attracting environmental moisture into the skin. Glycerin and sodium hyaluronate are classic moisturizing ingredients. Urea is another ingredient that imparts smoothness to skin surface, but sometimes it irritates consumers with sensitive skin. Skin becomes dry, scaly and itchy if it lacks intrinsic natural moisturizers. The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is composed of a mixture of different amino acids and salts which mimic the natural composition of stratum corneum. Sodium PCA helps maintain suppleness.
Tretinoin and retinol. Tretinoin is a vitamin A derivative and requires a doctor’s prescription for use. Its role in improving sun-damaged skin is well documented. Retinol-based moisturizers are available over-thecounter. This vitamin A precursor is converted into tretinoin by the enzymes in the skin, offering comparable or slightly weaker benefits than tretinoin-based moisturizers. Retinol is less irritating than tretinoin, because it does not induce too much peeling and redness. Vitamin A helps skin cell turnover and stimulates collagen development which, in turn, helps minimize fine lines.
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids. This group includes glycolic, lactic, citric, mandelic, tartaric and salicylic acids. All improve the general feel of the skin. Sometimes AHA-based products cause redness or irritation on consumers with sensitive skin, but this is not the case with BHA-based products. Both acids provide a gentle skin exfoliation, enabling skin cells turning over quickly and providing moisturization. Overall, AHAs elicit the most profound change in skin.
Vitamin C. Products based on vitamin C are effective against free radicals and reduce some harmful effects of the sun. Vitamin C repairs and rejuvenates skin. However, it is important to use a stable derivative of this ingredient.
5 MUST WE AGE SO QUICKLY?
Vitamin E. An important antioxidant that fights free radicals to reduce sunburn and promotes skin healing.
Copper Peptide. It has shown rejuvenating properties in cell culture studies.Growth Factors. Much debate remains about GF efficiency because their large
molecular size hinders their ability to penetrate the skin, thereby limiting its ability to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Yet, growth factors stimulate elastin and collagen production, which in turn result in supple, smooth skin.
Niacinamide. In clinical studies it has been shown to reduce redness and inflammation. It has been shown to reduce skin aging caused by artificial sunlight while also reducing the risk of skin cancer.
Panthenol. Helps promote wound healing. It has excellent water-binding properties, and inclusion in hair and skin care products is beneficial because it imparts shine and skin smoothness.
Superoxide dismutase (SOD). Studies have shown that this very potent antioxidant helps protect the skin against free radical damage, hence providing a superior skin protection.
Zinc. It keeps immune cells working at maximum efficacy and it helps collagen synthesis.
Lycopene. Some studies have shown that it helps protect the skin from UV damage.
Ginseng. Acts as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant to help skin fight sun damage.
Anatomy of FormulationBesides actives, formulations also contain humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid that attract moisture from the air as well as deeper skin layers to moisturize skin. Formulas also contain lubricants and emollients such as petrolatum, lanolin, fatty acid esters, cocoa butter and shea butter, which help skin become soft and supple while providing a protective barrier. It may also contain preservatives and herbal or botanical extracts.
Skin can become smoother by procedures such as micro-dermabrasion, chemical peels, Botox treatment, and laser resurfacing. These procedures can eliminate uneven skin surfaces, age spots and very fine lines.
The war on wrinkles can be won by doing the little things such as maintaining a routine skin care schedule and fortifying a sensible diet with vitamins and supplements.
6
Chapter 2
ARE HIGH-PRICED COSMETICS REALLY WORTH THE PRICE?
THE GLOBAL PRESTIGE beauty market (defined as cosmetics, skin care, fragrances, hair care and sun care) is valued at $36 billion. Of that total, western Europe accounts for $14 billion and North America, $12 billion.1
According to NPD Group’s beauty industry analyst Karen Grant, ultra premium skin care products (those priced at $150 and above) account for a meager 3% of the $2.2 billion prestige skin care market, but generate the strongest growth in the overall category, where the average price point is $32.50. According to NPD Group, prestige brands include La Mer, Natura Bisse’, Kanebo, La Prairie and ReVive. Their peers include a host of dermatological brands including N.V. Perricone M.D., Murad, Dr. Brandt and Dr. Hauschka Skin Care. These products are shattering the price ceiling and are sold at select group of retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstorm.
Cost and EfficacyHere’s a review of some of the highpriced products out there in department store shelves.
DDF: RMX, $1,000 for a 28-day skin care regimen. This protein powder is packaged in tiny frozen vials along with serum. The product must be thawed, mixed and applied at night. It reportedly reduces the number and the depth of wrinkles. The breast milk of nursing cows in the initial two weeks is a very rich source of growth factors, and play a critical role in tissue formation. According to Paul Brazean, a researcher with the University of Montreal, who collaborated with DDF, these growth factor proteins signal cells to enhance metabolic activity. They are responsible for production of collagen and elastin.
A double-blind, 28-day clinical study confirms product claims. All subjects reported
More women are willing to pay more for flawless skin.
7 ARE HIGH-PRICED COSMETICS REALLY WORTH THE PRICE?
a decrease in pore size, 93% had reduction of crow’s feet, and 93% experienced greater overall elasticity.
La Mer: Essence, $2,100 for a three-week supply. According to company president Maureen Case, La Mer harvests sea kelp in San Diego and flies it to a New York laboratory, where it ferments for four months. The resulting broth is kept in three magnetized tubes. The tubes in turn are contained in a plexiglass holder, which is housed in a jewelry box-like case with foam green lining. The cream is hand-filled into jars. By any standard, this product made with fermented algae could be considered the most expensive lotion. Aside from the fermented sea kelp, it also includes specially cultivated algae to nourish the skin. The plant cells act as antioxidants and anti-irritants. As for the marketing of this product, according to Tyler Jones of La Mer, Essence will be available by invitation only to the most loyal La Mer devotees.
La Prairie: Skin Caviar Intensive Ampoule Treatment, $500. The sea proteins, according to La Prairie, are vital for lifting and firming. The product contains rare caviar extracts found only in the waters of the Caspian Sea from the roe of the belu-ga sturgeon during the natural birthing process. According to La Prairie, the caviar extract’s cell format is similar to human skin, and the amino acids in the fish eggs help speed collagen production to thicken skin and make it appear firmer. According to president Lynne Florio, the brand uses only the most innovative advanced and rare technologies, and ingredients that ensure proven results and optimum efficacy. But these technologies, ingredients and proprietary complexes come with a price! The Caspian caviar is regulated under an endangered species act, so the supply is limited. The roe is processed immediately after harvest to keep the active proteins intact, which entails expensive transport. Further cost is due to a long list of chemicals and Swiss Alpine water packed inside the tiny ampoules. The product also contains superoxide dismutase, an antioxidant enzyme that fights free radicals that cause age-related damage.
Revive: Intensive Volumizing Serum, $600. The product is said to target the skin’s DNA with keratinocyte growth factor. The serum creates new cells eight times faster than the skin can on its own. Other bioengineered growth factors are designed to strengthen collagen, rebuild capillaries and boost firmness. The company is planning to launch a $1,500 anti-aging skin product called Peau Magnifique. It contains telomerase.
Orlane: Hypnotherapy, $470, contains a botanical active ingredient complex consisting of omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin E, which boosts amino acid production. The active ingredient is derived from the red arctic tocol cranberry. In a 28-day study, at least 80% reported fewer wrinkles and more radiant skin.
SK-II: Facial Treatment Concentrate, $300. The active ingredient known as pietra was accidentally discovered at a sake brewery when a monk noticed exceptional skin smoothness of a worker who had excessive wrinkles elsewhere on his body. Pietra largely consists of amino acids, skin nutrients and a cellular lipid complex of emollients generally found in the skin, which form a rich moistureretaining barrier that moisturizes, nourishes and energizes skin cells, according to the company. The product’s high cost is due to pietra, which is rare, and there is only a specific type of yeast that can be used to make it. The cultivation also requires a controlled environment, according to company scientist Dawn French.
Kanebo: Sensai Premier Cream, $1,300. The cream supports the skin’s DNA repair function, increases hyaluronic acid production and accelerates skin’s metabolism, according to Shintaro Inone, director of R&D. This is accomplished by a specific seaweed that grows near a remote Japanese island. The other ingredient is the moisture-retaining Koishimaru silk extract, which adds to the high formula cost. The product also contains yuzu extract, saffron oil, spinach beet root extract, Chinese rose plant extract and water sourced from Mount Fuji. The company has conducted
8 ARE HIGH-PRICED COSMETICS REALLY WORTH THE PRICE?
and published research studies where a seaweed (Gigartina tenella) boosts skin’s DNA repair function.
Perricone: Neuropeptide facial conformer, $570, contains both neuropeptide and amino acids which stimulate skin cells to repair themselves. According to Dr. Perricone, they boost collagen production and have anti-inflammatory properties. Why the high cost? The supplier charges $15,000 to synthesize 1kg of the neuropeptide molecule, enough for approximately 100 bottles.
Estée Lauder: Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lifting Crème, $250. According to Marjorie Lau, Lauder’s vice president of marketing, North America, people will do a lot to look more youthful. Some items in this product range cost $900 and are sold in more than 500 doors. Re-Nutriv has a strong international business, particularly in Europe and Asia, where women tend to be more skin conscious.
Are They Worth It?Most of the ingredients found in ritzy cosmeceuticals are no different than regular price cosmeceuticals. Silicones, fatty acid ester emollients, surfactants, preservatives, humectants and thickeners do not penetrate the skin or change the structure of the skin in any permanent way. If the majority of ingredients are the same, how can manufacturers justify the high price? Most luxury cosmeceutical companies maintain that high costs are justified because of costs associated with specific ingredients, unique manufacturing procedures and research and development. Some well-researched cosmeceutical actives such as peptides, ceramides, DMAE and alpha lipoic acid do show skin benefits after their long term use. Yet, for the most part, luxury cosmetics thrive because consumers equate high cost and glossy packaging with product efficacy. Women feel they are worth the high cost of cosmetics and they rationalize that they are taking very good care of their skin. Many consumers also favor luxury brands, even though they know that cosmetic procedures would provide better, cheaper and longer lasting effects. But they distrust laser photo-facials, peels and microdermabrasions. Most antiaging products are well formulated to provide skin moisturization, fight free radicals and protect skin against environmental factors. All ultra luxury brands have very elegant packaging, but differ in their promotion strategy
A few products claim to have a unique botanical extract or some rare ingredient with magic anti-aging properties. If you scrutinize the long list of ingredients, it becomes evident that most of these formulations use fundamental ingredients such as peptides, retinol, coenzyme Q-10, ceramides, DMAE, alpha lipoic acid, and vitamins C and E. They supplement these with one or two unique ingredients that are promoted as driving the efficacy of the product. Consumers often have never heard about such ingredients and are motivated to buy these pricey cosmetics. After initial disappointment, they continue their search for effective brands.
Many companies publish their research findings, but some do not. Many consumers readily believe outrageous claims about these luxury cosmeceuticals because they mistakenly think that the FDA must have approved these claims. Most marketers avoid FDA scrutiny because they make skin appearance-related claims very cleverly with the expert advice from their legal/regulatory resources.
Anyone who watches QVC or HSN knows that fashion designers, super models and actresses are all launching their fragrances and/or anti-aging skin care ranges, and customers are reassured by the celebrity connection. The underlying thinking is that consumers become comfortable with their product. Critics say it is ludicrous to choose a product because a celebrity has endorsed it. Designer name adds next to nothing to quality, yet sales of these cosmetic ranges far exceed expectations of the marketers.
9 ARE HIGH-PRICED COSMETICS REALLY WORTH THE PRICE?
At the recent Cosmeceutical Conference organized by Strategic Research Institute and held in New York, Dr. Jeffery Dover told the audience that price has nothing to do with quality in this industry. He also further added that a recent study by the American Academy of Dermatology found that 94% of women are confused by the anti-aging treatments on the market. This validates comments made in this column.
References1. Euromonitor and Morgan Stanley Reports, November, 2005.
RESEARCH
13
Chapter 3
SIRTUINS, A BREAKTHROUGH IN ANTI-AGING MARKERS
The active skin ingredient category is the fastest-growing sector of the personal care ingredients market, although projected growth is certainly not dynamic with annual growth of less than 3% a year from 2008-2013, according
to Euromonitor International. The category is expected to expand to include a wider range of new generation alternative ingredients as science continues to explore new ways to stem the tide of visible aging. This column will briefly explore the science behind one of these new-generation breakthrough alternative anti-aging ingredients—a family of enzymes called sirtuins. These enzymes have the potential to not only make us look younger and rejuvenated, but may also boost our lifespan.
CompositionScientists have identified seven human sirtuins, and the most recent studies have revealed their huge anti-aging potential. They are protein enzymes that originally made headlines after a 2005 study about cell longevity. Primarily, they regulate the activity of many genes that are responsible for various bodily functions such as cell defense, metabolism and reproduction.
Their name comes from Silent Information Regulators-2 or Sir2, the gene responsible for cellular regulation in yeast. They affect cellular metabolism in plants and animals and hence play a role in aging markers. They prepare the body in transforming from one mode to the other such as from a reproductive to a survival mode, and from self-preservation to a stress resistance mode, making them major players in the aging process. They occur in keratinocytes, fibroblasts and in the epidermal-dermal junction layers. Collectively, these three layers, which are designated as aging-responsible-interface (ARI), are involved in wrinkle formation, irregular pigmentation, dry skin, loss of
Are sirtuins the next hot anti-aging ingredient?
14 SIRTUINS, A BREAKTHROUGH IN ANTI-AGING MARKERS
elasticity and several other signs of aging. Sirtuins have demonstrated power of arresting these unnecessary processes in the cell by removing the acetyl groups from the proteins involved, delivering its anti-aging benefits.
BenefitsSirtuins slow down the aging processes throughout the body. Skin cells were treated in vitro with agents that increased the production of sirtuins. As a result, they stimulated collagen growth and produced firmer skin cells with fewer lines and wrinkles. They have shown efficacy in pre-clinical models for metabolic, neurodegenerative and inflammatory issues as well as protecting cells against reactive oxygen species, DNA-damage and pre-mature cell death. Life-span boosting by sirtuins is established via a study in which yeast cell’s life-span was increased by 30% after an extra copy of sirtuin gene was added to the cell. Also it was shown that extra copies of the same gene extended the life-span of round worms by up to 50%.1 Sirtuins control genes indirectly in the cell nucleus, thus proving their environmental protection benefits and antioxidant activity as well as other benefits that other ingredients cannot match.
ProductionSirtuins are produced in the body by caloric restriction. Mice that consumed 30% fewer calories than normal produced sirtuins, which allowed cells to withstand damage and live longer. How many of us could really remain half hungry to derive the antiaging benefits of sirtuins? For this reason, the search is on for a substance that stimulates sirtuin in the body to harness its lifespan-boosting and anti-aging benefits. An effective sirtuin stimulator would potentially provide benefits of caloric restriction without going hungry.
ResveratrolA well-known antioxidant, resveratrol is a polyphenol that is found in grapes, red wine, plums, peanuts and other plant products. It has a range of unique anti-aging properties, by being a potential sirtuin activator. In several studies, it activated sirtuins and extended life-span in various species, from yeast to worms to rodents. Unfortunately, it is unclear how this promising data apply to humans. Moreover, the safety of its high doses in humans has not been studied.
Resveratrol is unstable and oxidizes easily, which makes it difficult to create a skin cream with appreciable shelf life and ideal biological efficacy. Further research is necessary to understand the risks and benefits of its topical use and its net effect on the skin, including the adequate manner of its application. Researchers do not know if topical application of resveratrol actually activates sirtuin production. Still, commercial creams with sirtuin do exist. The concentration of resveratrol in these products is unknown.
The anti-aging efficacy of these topical products remains questionable, primarily because sirtuins are large and unstable. Small, oral doses of resveratrol are safe, which can be deduced by thousands of years of human consumption of grapes and red wine. These questions arise only when resveratrol’s topical uses are commercialized via creams and lotions.
Dermatologists’ ViewsAccording to dermatologist Dr. David Bank, sirtuin research is an exciting new arena and the promised repair is theoretically possible, but there is no peer-reviewed research to prove that it can be done just yet. However, another well-known
15 SIRTUINS, A BREAKTHROUGH IN ANTI-AGING MARKERS
dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann questions whether or not we actually want to make skin cells live longer, considering that some of the best anti-agers out there, such as retinoids, work by speeding up cell death.
Adding sirtuins to our face creams may extend the life of cells; but cancer is the uncontrolled growth of cells and we currently cannot control how long sirtuins make cells live. I conclude that sirtuins potentially lack the ability to discriminate between a healthy and a cancerous cell and this could be of serious skin safety concern at this time.
Other DevelopmentsA sirtuin-stimulating drug called Sirtris is being developed by GlaxoSmithKline. This drug would treat diseases associated with aging such as diabetes. While Sirtis may not have a direct impact on skin care, it could help in the search for other sirtuin-stimulating chemicals.
Anecdotal evidence supports the idea of sirtuins as effective anti-aging ingredients. After all, for years researchers have touted the health benefits of antioxidants derived from red wine and grape skin. Sirtuins may prove to be a significant weapon in the war against aging in the near future.
References1. M. Neveu et al. Enhancing cell longevity for cosmetic application. J. Drugs
Dermatol 2007; 6 (suppl) 14-19.
16
Chapter 4
THE TRUTH ABOUT TELOMERES
ANTI-AGING NOW represents the largest segment of the skin care market, accounting for about 40% of the roughly $2 billion in skin care sales in the US last year. In her presentation at Supplyside West in Las Vegas, Amy Ziegler of
Mintel International said that manufacturers must target older consumers and find ways to keep them engaged in the category longer—one way to do that is to create products that actually work!
In 2009, three US scientists won the Nobel Prize in Medicine for illuminating the mysteries of telomerase. According to one theory, telomere shortening plays a major role in the aging process. This column will briefly review this theory and clarify how the skin aging process begins at the cellular level within the DNA.
Telomere biology has become an important topic in the anti-aging research. Telomere length is currently being studied as an independent predictor of mortality and morbidity in humans. Telomeres are crucial to the life of the cell. In order to delay the onset of senescence, protective active ingredients are used. Our body is made up of over a trillion cells. Each cell has 46 chromosomes and each chromosome has
Can telomerase-based therapies be an effective tool to reverse the signs of aging?
17 THE TRUTH ABOUT TELOMERES
two ends, each with its own telomere. Telomeres are the“clocks”that determine life spans in humans. Their role is to preserve the integrity of the information encoded in chromosomes during the process of cell division.
A Cause of AgingTelomere shortening is considered to be one of the main mechanisms of intrinsic aging. Cellular aging and telomere shortening essentially involve an overloading of free radicals resulting in increased oxidative stress resulting in telomere shortening, diminished antioxidant defenses and mitochondrial damage. Each time a cell undergoes the process of DNA replication before cell division, it loses several telomeres, which get shorter during division, eventually becoming so short, the cell can no longer divide, triggering cell aging. Scientists have noticed that after 50 or 60 cell replications, the telomeres become too short for reliable chromosome duplication resulting in the cell’s eventual death known as senescence.
It marks the end of the aging process and while there is no exact definition, it is generally associated with the beginning of a decrease in cell multiplication rates, lower protein synthesis and higher cell death rate. This limit is called the Hayflick limit (after the scientist who discovered it).This gradual telomere shortening occurs over a period of time and results in cellular aging. When a cell divides, enzymes that duplicate the chromosome and its DNA can only produce a slightly shorter chromosome, with a little bit missing from each end. The telomeres become a bit shorter in the daughter cells, but this is inconsequential, because all genetic information is preserved. They keep the ends of various chromosomes in the cell from accidentally becoming attached to each other, keep them protected, thus ensuring the integrity of DNA. Telomere length is a marker of biological age. This age reflects the impact of genetic and environmental factors over the individual’s lifetime and the longer telomere length reflects a younger biological life.
Breakthrough ResearchTelomerase is an enzyme in the cell nucleus that acts on the telomeres to repair or lengthen them by adding DNA sequences. A breakthrough Nobel Prize winning discovery, published in the Nov. 28, 2010 edition of the scientific journal Nature, provides evidence that age reversal may become a reality. The experiment essentially focused on telomerase, an enzyme that makes small units of DNA seal the tips of chromosomes. By reactivating telomerase, they rejuvenated worn out organs in mice that were the equivalent biological age to 80-year-old humans. One month later, the treated mice showed surprising signs of rejuvenation. Overall, their telomeres had lengthened and the levels of telomerase had increased. These effects, in turn, also awakened their dormant brain stem cells, producing new neurons. Additionally the spleen, testes and brain grew in size too.
The researchers concluded that the reversal of age-related decline seen in the animals justify further exploration of telomere rejuvenation strategies for age-associated diseases. As people age, low levels of telomerase are linked to the erosion of telomeres. Researchers are using telomerase enzyme in treating chromosomes to lengthen telomeres in order to prevent further aging or even to reverse aging. Telomerase activation in aged or chronically stressed normal cells was shown to slow or reverse telomere shortening, increase its replicative capacity and restore or improve cellular function in order to prevent aging and increase lifespan. It is not clear exactly how stress affects telomeres, but emotional stress along with oxidative stress speed up the shortening of the telomeres. All along telomerase helps build and maintain telomeres in immune cells.
18 THE TRUTH ABOUT TELOMERES
Telomerase ActivatorsSerious efforts are underway to develop telomerase-based therapies to fight aging. One telomerase activator called TA-65 is already available. TA-65 is a naturally occurring single molecule found in Astragalus, which contains more than 50 known saponins, called astragalosides with both water- and fat-soluble ends. It is believed that astragaloside IV is a mild telomerase activator. Its neuro-regenerative properties are currently being investigated.
Renovage developed by Sederma is another cell facilitator, corrector active, and is believed to deliver its effects by stabilizing telomeres and cell division. It further improves cell communication and helps to rebalance cell metabolism. By delaying cell death, it is claimed that it can help extend cell lifespan. Incidentally, Renovage is the brand name for trepenone, a drug used in Japan to help protect tissues against damage and stress. We are seeing more DNA repair products appear in the market place. They are said to maintain and/or elongate telomere length and thus the lifespan of cells, by promoting the skin’s natural protection and repair factors that deal with anti-stress, detoxification and DNA repair.
Impact on AgingHow quickly we age is not just a function of genetic disposition, but also how we avoid the factors that tend to accelerate the aging. Youthful aging could be a direct result of cellular performance and the role of telomeres in cell health. Ultimately it is the weaker cell physiology that is at the heart of all skin dysfunctions such as fine lines, wrinkles, loss of tone, age spots, redness, dry skin, dilated pores and dullness. The cells have prematurely entered a presenescence phase that is compounded by subsequent successive accumulation of unrepaired DNA damages that are less protected by their telomeres over time.
This assertion is further confirmed in a recent New York Times article, “Prospect of delaying aging ills is raised in cell study of mice.”According to the article, published on Nov. 3, 2011, senescent cells accumulate in aging tissues such as arthritic knees, cataracts and the plaque that may line elderly arteries. The cells secrete agents that stimulate the immune system and cause low-level inflammation. Until now, there has been no way to tell if the presence of cells is good, bad or indifferent. The answer turns out to be that the cells hasten aging in the tissues in which they accumulate.
Although the Nobel Prize research finding is compelling, it still remains to be seen whether this approach could slow the signs of aging in people. There is, some evidence that telomerase favors tumorigenesis and so telomerasebased products may foster cancer. Also not much is known about efficacy and longterm safety of telomerase-based products and no one knows why or what impact that has on longevity and aging.
Will skin creams one day reverse the aging process and not just reduce the signs of aging?
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Chapter 5
UNEXPECTED ANTI-AGING BENEFITS FROM ALZHEIMER’S TREATMENT
Alzheimer’s disease is the sixth-leading cause of death in the US and it is the only cause of death among the top 10 in the country that cannot be prevented, cured or even slowed, according to the Alzheimer’s Association. As the US
and global populations continue to age, the rate of Alzheimer’s is expected to increase around the world. No wonder why researchers are scrambling to understand this dreaded disease. Now, an experimental drug treatment for Alzheimer’s disease has also demonstrated a host of unexpected anti-aging benefits in animals. This column will briefly review this exciting new development.
Of mice and aging men. Researchers at the Salk Institute for Biological Studies found that mice treated with J-147 performed better on cognition tests and displayed robust motor movements.
20 UNEXPECTED ANTI-AGING BENEFITS FROM ALZHEIMER’S TREATMENT
Alzheimer’s disease afflicts more than five million Americans. It is also the most common cause of dementia in older adults, according to the National Institute of Health.
According to an article published in the Nov. 12, 2015 issue of the Journal of Aging, Salk Institute for Biological Studies, researchers Drs. Antonio Currais and David Shubert discovered unanticipated anti-aging benefits after treating laboratory mice with an experimental drug dubbed, J-147. The drug worked well in a mouse model of aging not typically used in Alzheimer’s research. The research team’s goal was to explore the effects of this drug on a particular breed of mice that has specific characteristics of aging rapidly and simultaneously experiencing a version of dementia that more closely resembles the age-related human disorder.
Improved Gene ExpressionMice that received J-147 performed better on memory and other tests for cognition and also displayed more robust motor movements, according to researchers, who focused on old age itself (a major risk factor for this disease), instead of the usual route of detecting amyloid plaque deposits in the brain.
Remarkably, the treated mice showed fewer pathological signs of Alzheimer’s in their brains. Furthermore, many aspects of gene expression were very similar to those of young animals. These included markers of increased metabolism, healthier brain blood vessels, better memory and cognition, reduced inflammation and levels of oxidized fatty acids. It also prevented in the brain, blood leakage from the microvessels, while also improving other physiological features. Damaged blood vessels are a common feature of aging in general, and in Alzheimer’s in particular.
The researchers said that they did not predict the anti-aging effect; where J-147 made old mice act younger; with improved physiology, memory and an appearance that more closely resembled young mice.
Although these studies represent a new and exciting approach to Alzheimer’s drug discovery via animal testing in the context of aging, the researchers said that the only way to demonstrate the clinical relevance of the work is to proceed to human clinical trials, which are slated to begin next year, with auxiliary anti-aging benefits. This research demonstrates that such scientifically-proven interventions can improve our aging profile.
Furthermore, recent scientific studies have shown that proper nutrition can stimulate systems in the body that have been slowed by the aging process, and restore more youthful functionality. It is important to realize that the rate at which we age is under more of our control than was once thought to be possible.•
21
Chapter 6
UNDERSTANDING HOW COLLAGEN HELPS HEALTHY LOOKING SKIN
Global sales of collagen products are expected to reach $9.3 billion by 2023 and the market for nutricosmetics will be worth $7.4 billion by 2020 driven, in part, by an aging population and a growing acceptance of functional foods, according to a report by Transparency Market Research Company. This column will briefly review benefits of collagen for skin.
Collagen molecules are too big to penetrate the stratum corneum, but that doesn’t keep chemists from incorporating these proteins into creams and lotions.
22 UNDERSTANDING HOW COLLAGEN HELPS HEALTHY LOOKING SKIN
The word collagen comes from two Greek terms: kola meaning “glue” and gen meaning “producing.” Collagen has gluelike properties; think of it as the building block that keeps skin firm and resilient. The dermis has plenty of collagen and elastin. As we age, our skin produces less collagen; the lack of collagen is the main cause of wrinkles. The body’s natural collagen production declines mostly due to genetic factors along with lifestyle factors such as stress, sun, poor diet, pollution etc. Initial breakdown of collagen depends on members of the collagenase family that are capable of cleaving naïve triple helical collagen. If you never stopped making collagen and never damaged collagen, you would hardly get a wrinkle, your pores would stay small, you would never get a scar and your skin would stay nice and tight. Collagen is the key.
Collagen’s Make-UpThere are different types of collagens. Some are derived from animal bones or skin, and others from animal cartilage. Either way, collagen is a protein and it is very rich in two amino acids: proline and hydroxyproline. Its structure is complicated. The amino acids link together to form long chains called peptides. Peptides are smaller molecule proteins, and thus can penetrate the dermis more easily than regular collagen. The deeper penetration of peptides into the skin improves the quality and beauty of the skin. The five most commonly used peptides in antiaging skin care are Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Oligo peptide, and Matrixyl 3000.
Peptides form even longer chains called polypeptides. Three polypeptides wrap around each other to form a bundle that is called pro-collagen. Pro-collagen then turns into tropocollagen which then is called a single collagen fiber. The fibers are very well organized. Older skin has less collagen and elastin, which deteriorates and hence do not provide the fill and support that they do in young skin. Its destruction plays a role in the aging of the body.
Depending upon how amino acids are combined, you can generate 28 or 29 different types of collagen. Collagen is a long chain amino acid and the most abundant protein in the body. It is composed of amino acids glycine, proline, hydroxyproline and arginine. In nature, collagen is found exclusively in animal tissues, especially bone and connective tissues. There are marine sources but there are no vegetable sources or synthetic sources of true collagen.
You can rub collagen on your skin in lotion form, you can swallow it as a dietary supplement, or you can have it injected directly into your skin. It is an insoluble fiber that is responsible for giving skin elasticity and hair its strength. Soluble collagen is thought to penetrate skin better. Naïve collagen is essentially a fully formed, mature version. It has a very high molecular weight and it is a very large molecule. Hydrolyzed collagen, generally referred to as enzymatically-processed collagen, is most commonly used in cosmetics. Here, a mature collagen is chemically chopped off in very tiny bits. It is generally well absorbed on hair, increasing its tensile strength and elongation. It is also used in soaps to impart a soft texture to skin. The most abundant collagen in the body are Type 1, Type 2 and Type 3. Type 3 is the most stable and longest lasting.
Leiden University Medical Center in The Netherlands made the first direct link between the amount of sugar circulating in the blood and how sugar molecules permanently bond to collagen proteins in your skin. Collagen becomes crosslinked from long-term exposure to the destructive linear sugars. When glycation occurs in skin, the sugar molecules attach themselves to collagen fibers. Extensive cross-linking of collagen causes the loss of skin elasticity, resulting in wrinkled sagging skin. This is a process known as glycation, and it produces compounds called Advanced
23 UNDERSTANDING HOW COLLAGEN HELPS HEALTHY LOOKING SKIN
Glycation End Products (AGEs) that cross-link with proteins and consequently tissues become stiff and inflexible, skin becomes tougher and permanently sags. Glycated collagen is the unseen enemy within. Glycation reduces Type 3 collagen into Type 1, which is more fragile and is less stable than Type 2 and Type 3. When this happens, skin looks and feels less supple and is more prone to wrinkling.
Topical TopicsPricey moisturizers contain collagen, which reportedly replaces the collagen lost during the aging process. This claim is unfounded. Collagen has a molecular weight of 15,000 to 50,000 daltons. Only substances with molecular weight of 5,000 daltons or less can penetrate the stratum corneum.1 These products are usually labeled as firming creams as well as moisturizers, although they have little to no effect on transepidermal water loss.2
Collagen gives skin plumpness, yet its molecules are too large to make it through the skin, it won’t supplement collagen deficiencies. Collagen is the main structural protein that keeps the skin tight and elastic. The loss of collagen results in loss of facial volume causing crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, and jowls on the chin and jaw line areas of the face. To stimulate production of new collagen in the skin, a cosmetic formula must incorporate ingredients that efficiently penetrate deeply and work together to rebuild collagen.
Vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid with concentrations between 5 and 15% was proven to have a skin anti-aging effect by inducing the production of collagen Type 1 and Type 3 (Dermatoendocrinol. 2012). The main action of vitamin C on the skin is direct stimulation of collagen synthesis. It is an essential co-factor for the two enzymes required for collagen synthesis: prolyl hydroxylase and lysyl hydroxylase.3
Topical application of tretinoin can improve the appearance of photo-aged skin by stimulating new collagen production in the dermal layer of the skin (Clin. Interv. Aging 2006). In general, vitamin A derivatives encourage the skin to generate collagen, increase cell-turnover, and reduce hyperpigmentation. It smooths skin while promoting the growth of collagen and elastin—proteins that keep face firm and supple.
The Role of SupplementsThey are often combined with other vitamins and ingredients such as Type 2 hydrolysates and glucosamine for joint health; for example, low molecular weight Bio Cell is combined with proline hydroxyproline and vitamin C for healthy skin and hair.The body produces less collagen with age; food makers are marketing collagen supplements as a way to boost your body’s level of it. Meanwhile, research has also linked collagen supplements to improved skin elasticity and moisture. Studies report that taking collagen peptides regularly improves skin moisture level and smoothness as well as helps to fight the effects of skin aging.4
Another study showed that individuals taking a daily supplement containing collagen peptides reported a significant reduction in eye wrinkle depth.5 Study participants also showed improvement in their skin’s collagen and elastin after eight weeks of taking the supplement. Marine collagen peptides can have a profound effect on the biological regulation of the skin and have been shown to boost new collagen production.
However, these studies are either small in scope, short in duration or not yet replicated by follow up experiments, according to Dr. Mark Moyad MD, MPH, The University of Michigan Medical Center. Furthermore, there is no clear evidence that
24 UNDERSTANDING HOW COLLAGEN HELPS HEALTHY LOOKING SKIN
eating collagen increases your body’s level of it. There are also concerns regarding contaminants in collagen supplements and foods. Since it comes primarily from ground up animal parts, it is better to check for its heavy metal and creatinine content. Harmful heavy metals like copper and arsenic have turned up in supplements. There are also side effects such as nausea, diarrhea and other GI issues. Moreover, it is not clear how much collagen or exactly which type is most effective.
In terms of collagen supplements offering skin and hair benefits, Adam Friedman MD, an Associate Professor of Dermatology at George Washington University, says simply “no way.” He insists, “Collagen is going to be digested by your GI tract, because it is not built to survive the massive pH change in the gut.”
A 2002 study in the International Journal of Clinical Pharmacological Research reported that digestive enzymes and hydrochloric acid break down hydrolyzed collagen, which is the type found in most collagen peptide powders. The same study, also found that collagen Type 2 may be able to slip through your gut without losing its chemical structure.
Medical ProceduresThere are in-office procedures to boost collagen. GentleMax Pro Laser is a thermal collagen stimulator that creates new collagen cells leaving skin plump and firm. There is no downtime or pain and it offers facial firmness. Pro-Peel is a face and neck treatment. Results last from 12 to 18 months. Similar to chemical peels, laser treatments can stimulate collagen production by producing a controlled injury to the skin.
Clear+ Brilliant laser promotes collagen production to smooth away the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone and texture. AMP MD Microexfoliating Roller is easy to use and gently removes dead skin cells and smooths skin’s surface by tearing into it via tiny needles. The process of wounding the skin triggers its repair by producing new collagen to help smooth wrinkles, according to Dr. Neil Sadick of Cornell Medical College, New York.
ConclusionsCollagen is the key protein in maintaining skin elasticity and structural integrity. For better or worse, they have been used in creams for many years, even though they are too big to penetrate the skin. Still they are good moisturizers. •
References:1. Wehr RF Krochmal, Cutis 1987, 89512.2. Cosmetic Dermatology, Leslie Baumann MD3. Kivirikko Ki et al. Acad Sci 1996:38314. True Marine Collagen, Research Institute of Biomatrix, Tokyo, Japan.5. Proksch E, et al. Oral intake of specific bioactive collagen peptides reduces
skin wrinkles and increases dermal matrix synthesis. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2014;27:113-119
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Chapter 7
NOVEL LIGHT TECHNOLOGY REJUVENATES SKIN
LIGHT OR PHOTOTHERAPY has been used for more than 40 years in hospitals, clinics and physiotherapy practices around the world to strengthen and rehabilitate muscles. It is a growing market and its benefits to the skin are
well proven. According to Euromonitor, 90 million Americans already rely on anti-aging products or procedures, and by 2010 the world market for anti-aging products is predicted to reach $15.8 billion. This column will briefly examine the basics of light and how skin responds to it.
PhotobiologyPhotobiology is a branch of medicine in which light is used as a therapeutic agent. There are many non-laser light sources available, and all of them make claims for the treatment of acne, fine lines, wrinkles, photodamage and rosacea, to name just a few.
Photobiology can reduce fine lines.
26 NOVEL LIGHT TECHNOLOGY REJUVENATES SKIN
Photobiology studies the interaction between light and living organisms. Absorption is the way that energy is transferred from a source to the target. For light to have an effect on the body and for it to stimulate cellular pathways, skin cells must first absorb particles of light known as photons. All biological systems have a unique absorption spectrum. This uniqueness determines which wavelength of light will be absorbed to produce a given skin benefit. The skin cells contain photoreceptors, which only absorb light of specific wavelengths or specific colors. The visible red and infra-red portions of the spectrum have been shown to be highly absorbent and produce unique restorative effects in living tissues. Photons that are absorbed by the skin and underlying tissues trigger biological changes within the body in a process known as photo-biomodulation. In 2007, L’Oréal and Light Bioscience, a leader in the medical research of light emitting diodes (LED), signed a collaborative agreement for the development of skin care devices based on LED technology to reduce the visible signs of aging.
DermatologyFacial skin clarity and wrinkle treatment is targeted by light treatment. Light of red and blue wavelengths are thought to attack acne bacteria and thus promote clarity and healing. Collagen levels diminish with age and skin becomes less elastic as well. Furthermore, aged skin tends to become drier and thinner. It slowly loses its ability to retain moisture as the body’s inherent regeneration processes slow down. Fine lines and wrinkles are formed around the eyes over time as a result of cumulative unprotected sun exposure, which damages the skin’s supportive structure. Medical research studies have demonstrated that light treatment induces collagen synthesis. At-home LED phototherapy devices are almost as effective at reducing wrinkles and improving skin tone and smoothness as the versions at spas and doctors offices, according to Dr. Neil Sadick, clinical professor of Dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College (Allure, May 2009). Dermatologists all over the world are success fully treating periorbital wrinkles using LED technology.
FDA and InnovationsYellow spectrum wavelengths around 580-590nm are usually absorbed by blood and melanin. As a result, they never reach the photoreceptors of the cells deeper in the skin at an intensity high enough to generate any type of cellular response. On the other hand, the visible red spectral area around 633nm seems by far the best one to unlock the potential of the dermal cells to achieve reorganization and tightening of the skin’s supportive matrix. This wavelength also increased synthesis of fibroblasts growth factor (FGF) from macrophage cells. This study was completed at Guy’s Hospital, London by Professor M. Dyson.By the end of the 18th century, the Italian scientist Fubini had shown that out of the spectrum of filtered light, visible red light had a specific effect on the mitochondria within the cell; by speeding up their metabolic rate, red light made the cells more efficient. Also, Dr. Mario Trelles of the Instituto Medico Vilafortuny in Spain showed that red light at a wavelength of 633nm stimulated fibroblasts to produce collagen. In 2003, FDA approved Omnilux Revive, a visible red light device, for skin rejuvenation. A novel yellow LED has also been approved for photo rejuvenation. These instruments not only differ in the wavelength of light emitted, but also in the mode of delivery
DevicesDermatologists have relied on devices for many years and the latest models deliver powerful results in shorter time. The Gentle Waves device has a 595nm/810nm dual wavelength, which effectively regulates cell activity without a thermal effect. It is a
27 NOVEL LIGHT TECHNOLOGY REJUVENATES SKIN
safe and painless procedure. The LEDs also require low voltage, so electrical hazards and electro magnetic radiation (EMR) related issues are not usually of any concern. This pulsed light technology helps eliminate age spots, freckles, broken capillaries and signs of rosacea by working on excess haemoglobin to eliminate redness. The light stimulates collagen and elastin production after a course of four to eight light treatments. This would result in smoother and firmer skin with fewer fine lines and wrinkles with minimum or no down time.
Light therapy which is very different from laser and, in most instances, less powerful and less dangerous than laser light, works from the inside out by stimulating the cells within and beneath the skin, generating a cascading series of positive events such as increasing collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, which are ideal components for healthy, beautiful skin. It is advisable that consumers with porphyria should avoid most forms of light therapy.
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Chapter 8
DNA REPAIR IS THE NEW ANTI-AGING FRONTIER
ANTI-AGING creams remain unblemished by the recession, according to Mintel. U.S. anti-aging skin care product sales rose 13% to $1.6 billion between 2006 and 2008, outpacing the general facial skin care, which
increased 11% during the same period. This trend is expected to remain on track even as the economy struggles. In fact, Mintel expects the anti-aging skin care market to grow some 20% at inflation-adjusted prices during the next five years.
Not only are new products coming to the market, but new, more advanced ingredients are being incorporated into the latest launches, which often make almost drug-like claims. This column will discuss key issues surrounding DNA repair and its role in anti-aging benefits. It is important to understand two key words: DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid) and RNA (ribonucleic acid), because DNA repair-based products are slowly taking roots in skin care. Both are universal components important to all living cells, helping to rejuvenate and improve the skin. Human behavior is guided at every turn by genetic programs. DNA is a complex substance that makes up genes. It contains the genetic information for all organisms. RNA is one of the molecules involved in carrying out a cell’s DNA instructions for reproduction, growth and maturation DNA provides the blue print for any living organism.
DNA Damage and RepairAlthough free radical oxygen atoms are by-products of many normal chemical reactions within the body, free radicals are also formed from smoking, pollution, alcohol, stress and other environmental factors. The fibroblasts and their DNA that produce both collagen and elastin are prone to damage from UV radiation. When a cell is no longer desired, the DNA within it will start to clump, the membranes will leak and the cell will shrivel and die, medically known as apoptosis.
Whereas free radicals can affect all body cells and are probably significantly responsible for the aging of the entire body, they have a particularly strong adverse effect on the skin. One of the major causes of free radicals is sun exposure. Whenever a free radical robs an electron from a DNA molecule, the DNA is essentially attacked. On any typical sunny day, such attacks happen thousands of times. This cumulative damage over the years is responsible for aging.
Progressive damage created by free radicals activates messenger chemicals that tell DNA to switch on inflammation. Every time this command is executed, a small residual scar occurs post inflammation. When many such scars coalesce, sagging of the skin occurs in the form of a fine line or a wrinkle. This is why chronic unprotected sun exposure leads to wrinkled and leathery skin. If the DNA is not repaired, it could
29 DNA REPAIR IS THE NEW ANTI-AGING FRONTIER
lead to disease and cancer. Aging is thus a result of free radical damage inside the cells, notably DNA.
With cumulative attack on DNA, every cell would be decimated if it were not for our DNA-repair system— a built-in antioxidant defense composed of antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase. These repair enzymes replace damaged bases, splice DNA fragments and break up mismatched connections.
DNA constantly reproduces itself with exact precision under the watchful guidance of these DNA-copying enzymes which provide instant repair if needed. Cells are equipped to repair some of the damage that may have occurred through environmental factors. Although this outstanding DNA repair mechanism is ever-present, DNA deteriorates with aging. As a result, the gene on/off mechanism gets sluggish, resulting in genetic aging. There is probably no single mechanism of aging, in fact there may be more than 100 different theories and no single gene responsible for aging.
“We have entered the era of genetic aging,” observed Daniel Maes, VPR&D, Estée Lauder.
At the moment, beauty companies are diving into gene-targeting territory with incredible optimism, not to mention speed, and they are beating big pharma to the punch.
“Beauty companies are able to get products on the market early because they are not regulated by the FDA. In a way, they (act as a) vanguard,” said Leonard Guarente Ph.D, an MIT biologist and genetics researcher. “No known substance can cause genes to repair themselves. There are a lot of things going wrong at the same time in cells. You could repair one thing, but something else could be just as bad.”
“A lot of people have the idea that aging is the accumulation of wear and tear on the body, and that is certainly true, but besides accumulated damage, there is also the idea that some genes might actually be controlling the overall lifespan of an organism by coordinating the rate of aging,” said Howard Chang, MD, Ph.D, an associate professor of dermatology at the Stanford University School of Medicine. When he applied a specific chemical to the mice’s skin to block NF-Kappa B, a signal that turns on with age and controls the activity of hundreds of genes, the mice’s skin looked and behaved like that of newborns; it was thicker with more cell division and the same active genes seen in young mice genetically engineered to respond to the topical chemical applied to their skin.
Still, “aging is surprisingly plastic; tissue can revert back to its youthful state,” said Dr. Chang.
A Lot of SkepticsThe FDA does not prevent companies from using the DNA language of genetics, claiming their products could reverse UV damage, promote new skin cells growth, stimulate collagen to sell skin care products because, technically, they are not drugs. But many academic and cosmetic industry researchers remain skeptical that a topical product can repair DNA. They insist that true DNA repair is difficult to achieve with gimmicky delivery systems using typical cosmetic ingredients, whose end benefits remain unproven. The cosmetic industry should focus on DNA protection, a more reasonable, achievable goal.
Nevertheless, more multinational consumer health care companies are becoming DNA obsessed because the field seems to hold much promise. Of course, it would be a huge challenge for companies to change the mindset of consumers, who believe that if the new product works by modifying one’s DNA, it should require a prescription. There are several prestige DNA products on the horizon; their review will be the subject of a future column.
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Chapter 9
THE ROLE OF FREE RADICALS IN THE AGING PROCESS
ANTI-AGING REGIMENS take many forms, including nutrition, physical fitness, skin care, hormone replacement, vitamins, supplements and herbs. It’s all become a lucrative business, with annual sales topping $50 billion,
according to the American Medical Association.1 For the cosmetic chemist, free radicals play a key role in aging. This column will discuss briefly the role of free radicals, what they are, how they are created, what kind of havoc they cause in the body and how resulting damages could be avoided.
Free radicals and associated aging were first proposed in 1956 by Dr. Denham Harman of the University of Nebraska, College of Medicine. Free radicals are highly active, unstable oxygen atoms and are also referred to as singlet oxygen. Different kinds of free radicals are known as reactive oxygen species (ROS). They are created from many metabolic processes as well as from inflammation and sun damage. Oxygen is needed to breathe and metabolize food for energy, but it could also damage cells. All aging is the result of the activity of free radicals. They are by-products of many chemical reactions within the body, but they are also readily formed from smoking, alcohol, stress and pollution and greatly affect the skin.
The term free radical describes any molecule that differs from conventional molecules in that it possesses a free electron, a feature that makes it react with other molecules in highly destructive ways. In a typical atom, the electrical charge is balanced. It is important to note that electrons come in pairs, so that their electrical charges cancel each other out. Atoms that are missing electrons combine with atoms that have an extra electron, creating a stable molecule with evenly paired electrons and a neutral electric charge. The free radical possesses an extra electron, creating an extra negative charge. This unbalanced electrical energy makes the free radical tend to attach itself to other molecules as it tries to attract a matching electron and thus acquire electrical equilibrium. In such a manner they create new free radicals that, in turn, damage the body.
Multi-site DamagesFree radical damage continues until the day you die. In youth, its adverse harmful effects are not significant because the body has extensive repair and replacement mechanisms. With advancing age, however, accumulated effects of free radical
31 THE ROLE OF FREE RADICALS IN THE AGING PROCESS
damage initiates aging. The sun damages skin by creating a huge amount of free radicals on the surface. Just visualize a cut apple that is exposed to the air. In less than 30 minutes, the exposed apple flesh turns brown due to oxidation. Our skin shows a similar reaction when exposed to the sun without using any sunscreen. The free radical damages a wide range of skin components, including:
Collagen: Free radicals attack collagen. The damaged collagen begins to deteriorate and in essence becomes deformed. Healthy collagen is smooth and supple. It keeps skin moist, flexible and elastic, but when it is bombarded by free radicals routinely, they fray and break resulting eventually in facial lines and wrinkles. Skin sagging and wrinkles are directly proportional to the free radical damage. Skin appears weathered on people devoted to outdoor life, who have not practiced proper sun-safey behaviors, and is the result of cross-linked collagen.
Elastin: Responsible for elasticity of the skin. Free radical damage transforms elastin into something resembling dried-out, fissured cork. Skin loses the ability to spring back. Its suppleness is diminished and looks aged.
Melanin: Free radicals also damage melanin production, resulting in uneven skin pigment. The free radicals also attack the structure of our cell membranes, creating metabolic waste products known as lipofuscins. An excess of lipofuscins in the body is partially responsible for darkening of the skin in some areas, also known as “age spots,” indicating an excess of metabolic waste resulting from cellular destruction. Lipofuscins also disturb cellular enzymes, which are needed for vital chemical processes. As a result of free radical damage, pigment production becomes disorderly and unpredictable, making skin appear unsightly and aged.Skin Cell Production: Oxidants, byproducts of cellular chemistry, act like rust on the cell. Once a cell membrane becomes damaged by free radicals, it is unable to let nutrition in or waste out. As a result, waste begins to accumulate, occupying more and more space in the cell, squeezing out water and dehydrating cells—the root of cell aging. Unprotected sun exposure and free radicals slow down skin cell production. In well-protected skin, there are plenty of healthy cells to replenish the cells that were shed. However, they will not be replaced with plump healthy cells; rather, older, dehydrated cells take their place. Extensive sun exposure guarantees a breakdown in normal cell growth and the replenishment cycle. This gives rise to skin cancer—cells start growing too fast, resulting in skin growth and the onset of cancer.
Damage Prevention StrategiesAntioxidants prevent cellular rusting and are formulated into anti-aging products for the prevention of aging caused by UV damage. Free radical damage could also be designated as oxidation—a process of adding oxygen to a substance comparable to the way rust is added to metal. Substances that prevent the harmful effects of oxidation are known as antioxidants and they help combat the effects of aging. It is important to point out that topically applied product must be absorbed into the skin and reach the target tissue in the active form and deliver desired benefits. The free radical theory of aging implies that antioxidants such as vitamins A, C and E, as well as superoxide dismutase, will slow the aging process by preventing free radicals from oxidizing sensitive biological molecules or reducing the formation of free radicals.
The antioxidant actives found in many foods are often cited as the basis of claims for the benefits or a diet with high intake of vegetables and fruits. The addition of antioxidants could lead to a decrease of normal biological response to free radicals and lead to a more resistant environment to oxidation. There are also other oral strategies that could increase the skin antioxidant defense system from within by fighting against sun damage of both skin and eyes. Antioxidants cannot reverse
32 THE ROLE OF FREE RADICALS IN THE AGING PROCESS
sun damage or block UV rays; they help prevent sun damage by neutralizing free radicals that the skin produces when it is exposed to UV light.
Free radical scavengers actively search free radicals and bind them before they attach themselves to molecules and cause cross-linking. It is well recognized that certain vitamins and minerals fight aging by acting as free radical scavengers.
Several drugs and supplements have been shown to retard or reverse the biological effects of aging in animal models, but none has been proved in humans. Resveratrol, a chemical found in red grapes, has been shown to extend the lifespan of yeast by 60%, worms and flies by 30% and one species of fish by almost 60%.
Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) is a powerful antioxidant. It helps reverse the effects of skin aging such as wrinkles and sagging and is used both internally and externally.Finally, cosmetic intervention, such as skin resurfacing, Botox treatments, anti-aging products and plastic surgery, are performed to mask the effects of aging.
ConclusionFree radicals are damaging chemicals that are released by exposure to UV light. They damage a variety of skin functions leading to cell damage, premature aging and increased risk of cancer. Aging occurs because our DNA and cell membranes are chemically eroded by free radicals, generated by our own metabolism. But don’t despair. Today there are products available which profess to fix free radical damage even to DNA, proving that it is never too late to reverse the effects of aging.
References1. “Science behind use of hormones as anti-aging treatments,” Chicago Tribune
6/15/09.
33
Chapter 10
A REVIEW OF ANTI-AGING DEVICE TECHNOLOGIES
When it comes to slowing the signs of aging, consumers just can’t wait. The number of consumers getting botulinum toxin injections skyrocketed more than 700% since 2000, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. The desire for visible results in a shorter amount of time and the ability to duplicate professional results at home are key drivers in the anti-aging category. This column will briefly explore device technologies, their benefits, costs and drawbacks. Technologies such as microcurrent, microdermabrasion, ultrasound and LED light therapies are no longer confined to the doctor’s or esthetician’s office. Today, many at-home anti-aging appliances are available and reliable.
Lasers: They work by traumatizing the skin to quicken cell turnover. Best for smoothing wrinkles and fine lines, fractional laser resurfacing technology uses narrowly spaced micro-beams of energy to prompt new collagen growth. Unfortunately, for at-home use, FDA-cleared PaloVia has been withdrawn from the market. Tria’s new Age-Defying Laser and the Skin-Smoothing Laser by Iluminage
See the light? The most common LED therapy is red light, which is best for wrinkle repair; blue is best for acne.
34 A REVIEW OF ANTI-AGING DEVICE TECHNOLOGIES
Beauty are driving the antiaging segment’s double-digit growth along with introductions from brands such as Rio and Beurer in Europe. Many young women deal with pimples and wrinkles. FDA has recently approved for acne, a smooth beam laser to be used for in-office treatment. A gentle burst of light selectively targets oil glands, heating them and altering their structure to stem production of blemishes. Each treatment costs $500; several sessions are needed to terminate breakouts.
LED (Light Emitting Diode) Therapy: This anti-aging breakthrough works by targeting water layers on elastin. The most common is red LED, which is best for wrinkle repair, while blue is best for acne. Other LED types include infrared, yellow and amber. LED effects are cumulative and reward those willing to put in time for regular use. It calms rosacea, plumps skin and smoothens wrinkles. For at-home use, there’s the FDA-cleared Baby Quasar Plus ($399). Red and blue LED lights are incorporated into the FDA-cleared Truth Vitality Lux Renew ($299) that also features ultrasound.
In 2014, one of the most unique launches came from newcomer La Lumiere with its IlluMask brand of wearable LED light masks. It is available in two varieties: Anti-Acne and AntiAging, and has an affordable $29.95 price tag. IlluMask caters to the mass market, which has until now, lacked traction. Recently energy-based devices are increasingly providing technology for wrinkle treatment. Facial photo-rejuvenation is provided by NuLase from NuLase Company and Clear Touch Lite from Radiance. These light-emitting devices are safe, relatively pain free, and can provide subtle but real changes in the skin.
Microcurrent: A sub-sensory electric current delivers a pulse to facial muscles, stimulating them and surrounding tissue. It improves ATP production, the chemical in muscles that provides energy and reportedly increases elastin and collagen. The effects are cumulative and are said to be best for firming sagging skin. Truth Rejuvenate is available for athome use. Two metal probes effectively sculpt and tone the face.Another at-home use concept is BioBliss anti-wrinkle patches, which utilize microcurrent technology to drive peptide and hyaluronic acid into the skin. Four patches cost approximately $80.
Microdermabrasion: This form of exfoliation removes the top layer of dead skin cells and uneven thicker layers of skin. Professional machines use crystal and diamond microdermabrasion tips. It is best for fine lines and sun damage. Riiviva Microderm Device ($299) is equipped with medical grade diamond tip technology.
Microneedling: This technology uses skin’s natural recovery process to boost collagen and elastin. Dermatologists use a pin-tipped wand to poke tiny holes into skin, creating controlled micro-injuries. During the healing process, the damaged tissue is replaced with newer collagen which smoothes wrinkles, fades acne scars and improves skin texture. It costs about $200 per treatment session. About three to six sessions are required. At-home devices include Dermapen, Skinpen and Eclipse MicroPen.
Radio Frequency: This high frequency radio wave technology, known as Thermage, was both painful and ineffective, probably due to poor temperature control. New versions include the Pelleve Wrinkle Reduction System, which causes heat to build up where the skin and fat layer come together. Enough heat is required to cause a process called denaturation, where collagen fibers contract and they start stimulating new collagen to improve sagging skin. The operating temperature must reach 41°C for denaturation to take place At-home devices include Silk’N FaceFX and Dermawand.
Ultrasonic: As these high frequency (800,000-2,000,000Hz) sound waves enter the skin, they cause vibration of the surrounding tissue, particularly those that contain collagen generating heat within the tissue. This heat does not become very intense.
35 A REVIEW OF ANTI-AGING DEVICE TECHNOLOGIES
The temperature rise in surrounding tissue increases oxygen to the cells and aids in waste removal. The skin feels instantly energized, rosy and firm. Dermatologists use Ulthera, which is said to be best for firming and lifting skin.For at-home use try Truth Vitality Lux Renew ($279), which is FDA-cleared for the treatment of facial wrinkles and acne. This hand-held device combines ultrasound technology with red and blue LED light therapy. But for best results, try Ultherapy, a procedure that sends ultrasound waves deep into skin to stimulate collagen production and tighten connective tissue. Only one, $3,000 treatment is needed. This procedure is a bit painful but results last for years.
ConclusionsFDA does not censor device maker ads as long as they do not make medical claims. FDA sanctions at-home anti-aging devices for safety, not efficacy. Hence, the consumers should be skeptical of promises. Yet, at-home versions of anti-aging devices are effective due to the proven technology that they use. They are attractive because they cost less than professional treatments. High flyers and those with demanding jobs that keep them in the public eye are the most frequent customers in this category. Basic anti-aging remedies can only do so much; for the deepest wrinkles and facial sagging, it’s off to the plastic surgeon.
A final word to the wise: many treatments are so new that long-term effects are not known.
36
Chapter 11
UNDERSTANDING THE ROLE OF POLLUTION IN SKIN AGING
Air pollution is a global problem, but the worst culprits are found, not in China, but in India. According to India’s Center for Science and Environment (CSE), last year New Delhi surpassed Beijing to become the world’s most polluted
city. Although no city in the US makes the top 20, the country still emitted about 83 million tons of pollution into the air in 2012, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. But it really doesn’t matter if you’re Indian, Chinese or American for that matter. Air pollution damages your lungs—and your skin.
US sales of anti-aging products rose 2.4% to exceed $12.5 billion last year, according to Euromonitor International. Furthermore, according to senior market research analyst Sarah Jindal at Mintel, between 2009 and 2013, there were nearly 4,000 beauty and personal care product launches worldwide which included the word “pollution” in their description. The majority of these were found in skin care and color cosmetics. Europe accounted for 54% of these launches, but both Asia, and North America are growing markets for anti-pollution skin care products. This
Air pollution over New Delhi
37 UNDERSTANDING THE ROLE OF POLLUTION IN SKIN AGING
column will briefly explore the role of pollution in skin aging and the growth of pollution protecting anti-aging product.
Effects on SkinAir pollution is a global issue. Pollution impacts extrinsic aging and the skin in general. Primary skin problems include dehydration, redness, age spots, increased wrinkling, eczema and acne. It is well established that inflammation is the root of all evil that occurs in the body and that holds true for aging as well. When we are exposed to pollution in our daily lives, it results in an almost chronic state of subclinical inflammation, which leads to a variety of external signs on the surface of the skin.
According to Dr. Fredric Brandt, pollution leads to dryness, premature aging, dull skin, clogged pores, skin irritation, inflammation and allergies. He further emphasizes that effects of inflammation are far more serious than dermatologists had previously expected. It can lead to cancer, heart problems, diabetes and other health issues. In addition to heavy metals and UV radiation, there are other environmental hazards that could affect the integrity of human skin. These include cigarette smoke, fuel exhaust, halogenated hydrocarbons and ozone. They all generate free radicals leading to increased oxidative reactions including peroxidation of lipids at the cell membrane (Pelle et al, 2002, Scherer 2005).
Oxidation precipitates skin aging and may compromise skin health (Morita 2007, Briganti and Picardo 2003). Unfortunately, air pollution easily penetrates the skin barrier. According to Dr. Dandy Engelman, particles of air pollution are 20 times smaller than skin pores. The oxidative damage resulting from skin exposure to urban pollution is a cause of important histopatholigical alterations. The nuclei of exposed cells are often darkened, which is an early sign of cell death. It has been associated with environmental insults such as intense ultraviolet radiation, urban pollution and heavy metal exposure (Mass et al, 2003, Hiraga et al. 2007; Calderon et al 1994).
A study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that the more abundant the airborne particles, the more likely that age spots appear. This finding is further supported by Dr. Jean Krutmann of the Institute for Environmental Medicine at the University of Düsseldorf Germany, who found that carbon particles, especially nano-size particles, can penetrate the skin and activate an inflammation-related signaling cascade. The polyaromatic hydrocarbons’ role in skin-aging is likely to be related to its binding to the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) which is found in both keratinocytes and melanocytes.
When you stimulate the AhR receptor, you may increase melanin production, which could explain the increase in pigment spots seen in this research. Raw material suppliers could potentially target this receptor by developing effective pollution blocking new active ingredients. Some companies may have molecules suited to this task. Smog, dirt and dust in the air can clog pores, cause acne, and give skin a dull gray appearance. Free radicals can deplete oxygen in skin cells and decrease collagen production, which leads to wrinkles, fine lines and rough, dry patches. However,
There are better ways to protect your skin from the elements.
38 UNDERSTANDING THE ROLE OF POLLUTION IN SKIN AGING
long-term exposure to air pollution can also cause skin allergies, eczema, asthma, nausea and blood vessel damage.
A study in Mexico City demonstrated that cigarette smoke reduces the facial blood flow in smokers. According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, prematurely aged microcirculation is responsible for premature skin aging as are nanoparticles that create reactive oxygen species that are inhaled or touched to the skin itself. Free radicals attack vital skin components like collagen, resulting in skin aging. According to Dr. Debra Jaliman, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Ichan School of Medicine at Mt. Sinai, new research studies are underway to measure pollution effects on skin. It is widely accepted that particulate matter releases free radicals, damages collagen and elastic tissues, and speeds up sign of aging including wrinkles.
What Works?Manufacturers are promoting the antipollution benefits of some existing
ingredients such as grapeseed oil, buckthorn oil, co-enzyme Q-10, green tea, coffee berry and idebenone. As a result, consumers no longer rely on just treating symptoms, but rather can take an active role in preventing and protecting their skin—a process that includes topical and ingestible products and ingredients.
Anti-pollution products come in various forms, such as cleansers, creams, facial mists, wipes. They make a variety of claims from anti-stress, whitening and protecting to total urban defense. UV protection takes center stage in most of the products, but the key to the equation is antioxidant protection.
Antioxidant-rich “anti-pollution” products are in high demand because they defend skin against oxidative stress to help prevent premature aging. When pollution gets into your skin, it creates free radicals that are highly unstable molecules that have unpaired electrons. These molecules act like ping pong balls, bouncing around in your skin on their quest to steal an electron from a healthy cell, thereby injuring it. They literally poke holes in the collagen, which is what gives skin its firmness. All of this destruction shows up as hyper-pigmentation and fine lines. Free radicals can increase inflammation that makes acne and rosacea worse. Most serious thing they can do is DNA damage and cell mutation that can lead to cancer.
Luckily, as bad as all of that sounds, there is an answer, according to Draelos. Antioxidants are nutrients that can donate an electron where needed, effectively neutralizing the free radical. According to Dr. David McDaniel, an assistant professor at Old Dominion University, Norfolk Virginia, antioxidants provides one of the best treatment for preventing or reducing free radical damage. Protection is also provided by consuming antioxidant-rich foods such as green tea, dark chocolate, berries, pomegranate, blueberries, beans, leafy greens and other fruits and vegetables. All of them play a powerful role in the body’s ability to repair itself, particularly the skin.
Exposure to UV rays accelerates hyper-pigmentation and inflammation, according to Dr. Doris Day, clinical associate professor of dermatology at the New York University Langone Medical Center. She suggests daily application of products that contain antioxidants and provide SPF 30 protection. Some of the newest products that meet these criteria include Skin Ceutical’s C E Ferulic, Clarins UV plus HP Dayscreen SPF 40, Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Collection Dry Oil, Olay Total Effects Daily Moisturizer SPF30 and Clarisonic Smart Profile Sonic Cleansing Brush.
It is well established that there is an association between airborne particles and extrinsic aging, making airborne particles the latest target for anti-aging product formulators. Of course, government regulations have resulted in decreased emissions during the past few decades, but the air surrounding us still remains invisibly polluted.
Pollution remains one of the top causes of skin aging. Skin health is affected daily by both indoor and outdoor pollution. A diet of fruits and vegetables and daily topical application of antioxidant sunscreen products affords the best chance for healthy skin.
39
Chapter 12
CYTOMIMIC TECHNOLOGY
KEEPING THE SKIN HEALTHY has become a multi-billion dollar business, with every major consumer health care organization investing in new methods and technologies to help maintain that youthful look. Younger looking skin
is the holy grail of the beauty industry. This column will briefly examine a new bioelectric anti-aging technology and its application to developing novel products.
Improved cell activity can make all the difference in younger looking skin.
40 CYTOMIMIC TECHNOLOGY
Skin care scientists at Johnson & Johnson have perfected the use of bioelectricity in healthcare to see how it might be used in a beauty product. The theory is very basic. As we age, the levels of bioelectricity decline in our skin, causing a reduction in the production of collagen and elastin, two of the essential components of healthy, youthful-looking skin. After many years, this can result in the appearance of fine lines, dark circles, eye-folds, under-eye bags, upper eyelid puffiness and uneven tone. Cytomimic is J&J’s trademark for a proprietary technology designed to mimic the body’s own bioelectricity. In topical treatment, it helps optimize cell-to-cell communication at the surface level of the skin, and helps rebuild and restore youthful appearance. This column will examine salient features of this technology and its anti-aging skin benefits.
Bioelectricity and CommunicationBioelectricity is an aspect in all living things, including all plants and animals. It is electric potentials and currents produced by or occurring within living organisms. Bioelectric potentials are generated by a variety of biological processes. In humans, bioelectricity is the body’s electric signaling process that directs physiological activities at the cellular level. As such, biological cells use bioelectricity to do work, trigger internal changes or some metabolic energy, and to signal one another through cell-to cell communication.
For example, nerve cells use electric pulses to carry information from the brain throughout the body. Cells that make up muscle use similar currents to contract together to produce movement. This innate electrical signaling system regulates bodily functions from the cellular level by using the movement of ions with a small positive or negative electrical charge to create concentration gradient and consequently an electric potential gradient.
An asymmetrical concentration of these ions inside and outside of a cell is what causes an electrical gradient between cells, and hence electrical potential. Since cells are closely located next to each other, the development of this electrical gradient by one cell will affect its neighboring cell and thus electrical signals can be passed from one cell to another. Bioelectrical signals generally range in strength from one to a few hundred millivolts.
How It WorksBioelectricity is the body’s native electrical signaling process that helps direct physiological activities at the cellular level, such as skin’s own rejuvenation process, when applied topically. As we age, bioelectrical signals naturally diminish which can result in decreased cell-to-cell communication, production of essential proteins such as collagen and elastin, and in healing abilities. This then results in fine lines and wrinkles, loss of firmness and sagging skin.
Micro particles of zinc and copper are formulated in a unique delivery system that helps stimulate the body’s own rejuvenation process. When activated by moisture, these energized micro-particles act as “miniaturized batteries” that help jump start healthy skin function. These microparticles stay on the skin surface and mimic the body’s native electrical signals to rebuild and restore youthful looking skin.
Clinical StudiesResults demonstrated improvement of the skin’s appearance within minutes of application: improved cell activity, evidenced in vitro by enhanced expression of collagen and elastin, accelerated improvement in reducing the signs of aging, even in the delicate skin around the eyes, improved skin texture, firmness and radiance,
41 CYTOMIMIC TECHNOLOGY
demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity to address a potential cause of aging. It can be applied to a number of categories beyond the anti-aging skin care arena. This could potentially include color cosmetics, lip care, diabetic skin care, OTC allergy eye relief and wound care.
Products on the market that are already using this technology include Neutrogena Revitalizing Lip Balm SPF 20, Neutrogena Clinical Anti-aging Booster Serum, RoC Brilliance Anti-aging Face Primer and RoC Brilliance Eye&Lash Primer.
ConclusionWhile the concept of bioelectricity in wound healing is well established among the scientific and dermatologic communities, first-generation electricity-based antiaging products have been limited to patches and battery-operated portable devices.
We have now seen how the power of bioelectricity helps improve skin rejuvenation. This proprietary technology delivers energized micro-particles combining zinc and copper in a topical formulation that helps stimulate the skin’s own rejuvenation processes by mimicking the body’s own bioelectrical signals. •
ReferenceJ. Chantalat, J. Sun, J&J, scientific poster and press, 69th Annual AAD meeting, Feb.
4-8, 2011.
42
Chapter 13
UNDERSTANDING THE MARKERS OF SKIN AGING
THE TYPE OF SKIN we have and the way it ages is, to a large extent, pre-determined by genetic factors. Typical changes we see in the skin as it ages include fine lines and wrinkles, thinning, reduced flexibility and elasticity.
According to Euromonitor International, in the U.S., a steadily aging society, the number of very elderly (80+) is increasing at an exceptionally fast pace. People are getting older, life expectancy is rising globally and how this aging affects the health and appearance of the skin is the subject of this column.
Oxidation: As skin cells decay, they lose an electron, creating very unstable molecules called “free radicals.” These radicals destroy collagen in the skin and also inhibit further production and repair of collagen. Free radicals are generated by UV light, environmental pollutants, stress, dehydration, smoking, improper diet and infection. Also, inflammation of any type generates free radicals. Super Oxide Dismutase (SOD) is an important enzyme in our body, which breaks down any inflammatory free radicals into stable components. However, the production
and function of SOD diminishes with advancing age, resulting in a decreased ability to fight free radicals.
Glycation: This occurs when the naturally occurring sugar molecules in skin bond to a protein or lipid molecule without the controlling action of an enzyme. The resulting products formed are called Advanced Glycation End (AGE) products, molecules that can be highly reactive and disruptive to normal bio-molecular function. AGEs are the universal molecule of aging and one of the leading causes of deterioration in many organs including the skin. They result in inflammation, reduced tissue flexibility, breakdown of collagen and increased free radical production which weakens the skin, causing sagging, puffiness and wrinkle formation.
Everyone ages—some better than others.
43 UNDERSTANDING THE MARKERS OF SKIN AGING
Immunity: With aging, the immune system weakens, impairing reaction to injury or infection. Harmful environmental factors in association with inadequate repair mechanisms and a poorly functioning immune system, contributes to the aging process. Unintended triggering of the immune reaction can sometimes lead to hypersensitivity with redness and rash formation.
Hormones: Growth hormone builds muscles, increases vitality of the body’s organ system and decreases the level of stress hormone, cortisol. When it is released steadily, skin thickens, imparting a more youthful appearance. Its production decreases as we age resulting in impaired cell replication and collagen manufacture within the skin.
Proteins: The protein component of the dermis is largely made up of collagen and elastin. Skin demonstrates a very rapid turnover with new cells being continually produced in the deeper layer of the epidermis, migrating toward the surface, maturing and dying. The rate at which damaged skin cells are replaced, slows with aging. The dermis consists of a gel-like substance made up of large molecules (glycoproteins, GAGs) and water. This material is critical in providing bulk for the dermis and acts as a lubricant between the collagen and elastin fibers when the skin moves. Collagen and elastin fibers provide strength and elasticity respectively. Thinning skin is a result of a breakdown of collagen fibers. Furthermore, fibroblast cells within the dermis also manufacture collagen and elastin but, unfortunately, they diminish making these proteins soon after puberty and we are left with a finite amount, thus contributing to the loss of skin elasticity. At the same time, the amount and quality of collagen that has been formed also deteriorates during aging.Conclusions
An increasing number of skin care ranges target the problem of glycation and oxidation to generate healthier-looking skin with fewer signs of aging. According to Nica Lewis, director of beauty innovation at Mintel, these product launches underscore how claims have been incorporated into a range of different products. She said the concept offers new opportunities to reach more mature consumers or postmenopausal women.
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Chapter 14
HOW NANOTECHNOLOGY ENHANCES ANTI-AGING PRODUCT EFFICACY
The concept of nanotechnology was introduced in 1959 by Richard Feynman, a Nobel Prize-winning American physicist. In the past 46 years, nanotechnology has made a lot of progress, and this column will briefly review recent
developments in this field.The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) defines nano particles as under 100 nanometers, which are one-billionth of a meter. A human hair, by contrast is approximately 80,000 nanometers. Literature suggests that a consumer can expect far more positive benefits from engineered nano-particles contained in cosmetics than potential toxicity from its use. This is reflected in the accelerated patent activity in the skin area exploiting nanotechnology. The market for nanotechnology is growing 14% annually and is expected to top $100 billion by 2017, according to The Freedonia Group. Within this market, the medical devices and supplies segment incorporating nano materials and technology was predicted to grow from $400 million in 2006 to $5.2 billion in 2011, reaching $16.2 billion by 2016.
Buckministerfullerine put the nano into nanochemistry.
45 HOW NANOTECHNOLOGY ENHANCES ANTI-AGING PRODUCT EFFICACY
What’s all this got to do with cosmetics? Nanotechnology is used to encapsulate actives that are water-soluble and hard to penetrate in skin such as vitamin C, peptides and retinol and drive them deeper into skin where they could deliver their benefits of rejuvenating skin. Some formulators alter the shape of these molecules so they anchor onto specific targets such as melanin, wrinkled skin. By nanoscaling salicylic acid, formulators have created products that attack acne without drying the entire skin’s surface. Many of the latest cosmetic and sunscreen products contain nano-sized materials such as titanium, iron and zinc.There are two major techniques used in the creation of nano particles: build these materials up from the atomic scale or make smaller particles from larger particles.
Nanoscale materials exhibit different properties and advantages compared to the larger-scale original material. Nano ingredients make products more efficient while enhancing consumer acceptance. Nano emulsions are transparent and have unique skin feel. They stabilize the actives and improve efficacy. Liposomes and niosomes are globular vesicles with diameters between 25 and 5000nm. They consist of phospholipids, sphingolipids or ceramides. They are produced by coacervation or phase separation techniques. Vesicles primarily improve the stability and tolerance of actives that are encapsulated within the vesicles.No wonder why Nutricare Co. adds “nano-liposomes” to its Organic Baby Cream, while P&G, J&J and GlaxoSmithKline have used nano materials for decades to provide for more effective products. Nanomaterials help to repair the skin barrier while preventing water loss at the skin’s surface because of occlusive properties of the small particles, thus enhancing skin moisturization.
Are They Safe?Ever-shrinking particle size evokes concern for safety and effectiveness. However, modifying the surface of nano materials with bio-compatible polymers reduces their toxicity in-vitro and alters tissue deposition.1 Particle reactivity and toxicity were magnified as particle size decreased. There is no regulation requiring labeling of nano materials. The FDA can, only minimally, regulate certain anti-aging products containing nano particles because they are termed “cosmetics” rather than “drugs.” There are both in-vitro and in-vivo methods available that measure the rate of
Treating acne, without over drying the skin, can be made possible by nano-scaling key ingredients.
46 HOW NANOTECHNOLOGY ENHANCES ANTI-AGING PRODUCT EFFICACY
skin absorption and penetration of cosmetic ingredients. We all know that all new formulations and sunscreens are tested on human subjects for their skin tolerance. Europe has passed new laws that will require most nano ingredients in sunscreen cosmetics to face new safety testing and mandatory labeling.
ConclusionA large number of cosmetic companies sell anti-aging products containing nano particles. Despite safety concerns, this technology has an appreciable impact on skin care product efficacy. The long-term health risks of nano particles however, remain poorly understood.
To learn more, be sure to attend Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition, Sept. 10 & 11 at the Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick, NJ. The Day 1 Keynote Speaker is Dr. Adnan Nasir MD, PhD, who is president of the Nanodermatology Society and a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. Dr. Nasir’s topic is “Challenges and Opportunities for Nanotechnology in Anti-Aging Skin Care.”More info: conference.happi.com •
References:1. B. Ballou et al. Non-invasive imaging of quantum dots in mice, Bioconjugate Chem
15, 79-86 (2004).
47
Chapter 15
GOOD SKIN TONE REMAINS A GLOBAL BEAUTY ATTRIBUTE
IN VICTORIAN TIMES, aristocratic ladies prevented sun and brown spots by always remaining under open umbrellas while wearing bonnets and gloves. Fair skin was highly admired. They also used leadbased face powder to achieve a pale
fair look. Needless-to-say, there were many other dangerous beauty aids in use. It is well known that use of mercury or excessive hydroquinone in skin care products have resulted in serious health complications and skin rash known as ochronosis. This condition results in permanent skin disfiguration marked by abnormal skin thickness, blotches and grayish patches. Many dermatologists, however, dispute FDA warnings regarding hydroquinone.
By the mid-20s, facial skin begins to lose its smooth texture and firm tone on account of cross-linking of the normally pliable and well-organized collagen fibers becoming rigid and disordered, diminishing their ability to stretch. Strong and resilient elastin fibers contribute to a firm tone of the skin. Such skin easily snaps back from its stretched state. Cumulative damage from the sun often emerges in the form of sun-damage later in life. Fair skin tone consumers easily show uneven pigmentation and broken blood vessels. Healthy skin is free of any visible hyperpigmentation and it appears radiant, clear and even toned and is highly aspired by all racial and ethnic groups because it represents good skin health and beauty.
Lighter skin shades are highly regarded in many Southeast Asian countries
48 GOOD SKIN TONE REMAINS A GLOBAL BEAUTY ATTRIBUTE
This column reviews skin tone products and differences relative to skin tone and beauty perception in the global consumer’s mind.
Beauty PerceptionAccording to renowned research dermatologist Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, “skin tone” is a marketing term that has little dermatologic meaning. It is a concept combining tactile smoothness, even color and even texture. Short-term application of botanical face masks cannot produce this benefit, yet they may provide a pleasant period of aromatic relaxation desirable to some consumers. Toners, astringents and tonics, on the other hand, have nothing to do with “skin tone.” They are liquid product dosage forms that are formulated appropriately for skin type, and are routinely used after the facial cleansing step to provide a comforting skin feel sensation.
In Asian countries, anti-aging is all about skin transforming into a lighter, whiter shade. Light, fair skin tone is most desirable and is deeply rooted in the culture. Thai women have an obsession to be as pale as porcelain. They religiously apply whitening products formulated to help prevent the production and formation of melanin hoping that it will diminish the spots that often affect their self-esteem. For Egyptian women too, beauty is often defined by paler skin.
In India, fair skin is so prized that all Bollywood actresses have pale fair skin, and it is desired by every Indian woman, young or old, fair or not. Furthermore across Southeast Asia, but in India in particular, fair skin is associated with beauty. It is believed that lighter skin women have advantages of easily finding jobs, love, romance and public admiration, while a dark-skinned woman faces uphill battles in all aspects of life. Any product, be it cream, soap or lotion, as long as it claims to lighten the skin tone, is easier to market to these women. Global cosmetic companies do a thriving business in Asia in this category because they provide what women want. All advertising messages of such products suggest that not only their skin will get fairer, but their social and professional standing will surely benefit with regular use of these products.
The social impact of such advertising messages is not discussed in this column, but it is important to note that recently a cosmetic skin whitening product based on gene-silencing technology has resulted in claims of racism. The cream, “Gloriel,” is able to reduce the production of melanin, the substance responsible for skin pigmentation. The Nobel Prize winning technique of gene-silencing known as RNA interference was expanded by two graduate students at Carlton University, Canada. The students have defended their creation against claims of racism according to CBS News.
Derms’ RecommendationsLighter skin is also a dream of most women in China, Japan and Korea. No surprise then, that these countries are also big markets for skin whitening products. Skin whiteners are among the most popular cosmetics products across Asia, Africa and the Middle East, with ranges including moisturizers, shower gels and deodorants. In 2007,
Japan is a major market for skin whiteners. Leading players include Shiseido, Kanebo and Kose.
49 GOOD SKIN TONE REMAINS A GLOBAL BEAUTY ATTRIBUTE
sales of whitening products accounted for approximately 30% of skin care sales in Japan and 20% in Korea. The skin lightening cosmetic market is big business in China and India, as well as in some African and Caribbean countries. The leading global brands of skin whiteners globally in 2007 were from key Japanese manufacturers such as Shiseido’s Elixir Superieur Whitening, Kanebo’s Blanchir and Kose’s Whitist. There were also significant sales for non-store retail brands such as DHC’s White Cream and Camu Camu Whitening, Noevir’s Blancnew and Menard’s Fairlucent.1
In the U.S. and Western Europe, however, beauty is closely linked to skin free of fine lines and wrinkles. Based on beauty perception, European skin lightening products are developed and recommended to be used to treat age spots, brown spots, freckles and melasma, with the objective being to obtain even tone and complexion whereas Asian skin lightning products are developed and marketed to alter skin color, diminish brown spots, sort of more fundamental correction. These products are used to remove dark spots, freckles and discolorations. They are purchased by people of all races but are popular with darkskinned consumers who have pigment disorders. Some OTC brands include Ambi, Porcelena, Black Opal Fade Gel and Esoterica containing 2% hydroquinone. There are several prescription skin-bleaching creams containing up to 5% hydroquinone. Because of the FDA’s proposed ban, many companies are now developing new formulations that rely on alternative active ingredients.
Consumers routinely seek dermatologist’s advice for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Some dermatologist-recommended drugstore brands include Skin Effects Advanced Brightening Complex, Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Radiant Eye Brightening Cream and La RochePosay Mela-D Skin Lightening Lotion. Recommended department store brands include Dr. Brandt Laser Lightening Day Lotion, DDF Intensive Holistic Lightener, Kinerase Brightening Anti-Aging System, Murad Lighten and Brighten Eye Treatment, Patricia Wexler M. D. Dermatology Under-Eye Brightening Cream, La Prairie The Radiance Collection, La Mer The Radiant Facial, ReVive Blanche Whiten, Lighten, Brighten.2
Unfortunately, in their enthusiasm to lighten their skin, many consumers don’t follow directions. They do not know that lightening products can damage their skin when overused. For example, products that contain “extra strength” hydroquinone may cause permanent dark spots.
ConclusionsAs we have seen, marketing claims for skin lightening products sold in India play upon women’s insecurities that skin color determines their success in life. This reinforces deeply rooted prejudices against women with dark skin. European and American women strive to have rosy pink complexion and do not pursue an exclusively pale, porcelain look.
Unilever, marketer of Dove products, had a “Real Beauty” campaign that encouraged women in the U.S. and Europe to embrace the way they look. Continued research has brought to light some wonderful hydroquinone substitute ingredients which have demonstrated excellent properties for improving skin tone and lightening pigmented areas of the skin. It is safe to conclude that consumers around the world rate skin tone as a top beauty attribute.
References:1. Euromonitor International (1/2/09).2. “Youth Equation,” J. Dover M.D. and Cara Birnbaum, page 91.
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Chapter 16
INFLAMMATION’S CONFLICTING ROLE IN BEAUTY & AGING
TREMENDOUS STRIDES have been made in the field of anti-aging medicine since the publication of Dr. Nicholas Perricone’s first book, “The Wrinkle Cure,“ in 2000. In it, he introduced the inflammation-aging theory, placing chronic invisible
inflammation at the center of age-related diseases and degenerative conditions.His theory was often dismissed with ridicule or skepticism or both! Science now
recognizes its validity and its serious threat to health and longevity. In fact, inflammation is a new industry buzzword. Inflammation is an essential response by the body to keep out infection. There are several states of inflammation from the highly visible, red sunburn, pimple or rash, to the invisible, which is indeed responsible for the aging process. This column will review the dual role of inflammation in beauty and ageing.
To put it succinctly, inflammation is a result of formation of wound or UV damage via several pathways including nuclear factor-KappaB (NF-KB)- mediated activation of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNFalpha) and interleukins.1
Anti-inflammatories calm skin to prevent flushing and skin sensitivity.
51 INFLAMMATION’S CONFLICTING ROLE IN BEAUTY & AGING
Inflammation and BeautyAll in-office procedures, including acid peels, dermabrasion and laser resurfacing, work so well to beautify the skin because they induce a low-level skin inflammation. According to Dr. David Leffell of Yale University, these intentional injuries that cause the skin to repair itself is accomplished through inflammation. Here the assault is quick, and once the tiny wounds are repaired, the new collagen has been created to knit the surface of the skin back together and the cascade switches off. This skin beautifying job is accomplished by lowlevel, self-limiting, deliberately-induced skin inflammation.
Inflammation and AgingIn contrast, aging is due to invisible chronic inflammation. According to Dr. Bryan Fuller of Oklahoma City University, chronic inflammation prevents damaged cells from self-destructing, enabling them to proliferate and potentially transform into cancer. When a cell is irritated, it releases inflammatory substances such as cytokine and histamine, which alert the immune system to the irritation. The immune system responds by rushing leukocytes to the site of irritation, which becomes red because leukocytes get mixed with red blood cells. Leukocytes also release a chemical called cytokine, which signals cells to produce protease enzyme. This enzyme breaks down collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid that are responsible for skin firmness, elasticity and moisture content, respectively.
The outer portion of the cell known as the cell plasma membrane is attacked by sunlight-induced free radicals resulting in the release of fatty acid, called arachidonic acid, which is readily transformed into powerful inflammation-causing chemicals. These free radicals stimulate the production of a compound in cells, called nuclear factor Kappa B (NFKB), which turns on production of harmful compounds, influencing microscarring and giving birth to wrinkles. Sunlight also activates another messenger in the cell, AP-1, which signals the cell to produce enzymes which break down collagen, eventually resulting in aging skin. Many of these reactions take place simultaneously, at a slow pace, producing a gradual deterioration of the skin.
Our anti-agingOur “Feelosophy” is about enhancing Personal and Home Care applications to create a holistic product experience in four key dimensions: We research what consumers
Avocado oil is noted for its anti-inflammatory properties...
52 INFLAMMATION’S CONFLICTING ROLE IN BEAUTY & AGING
perceive and feel, improve the effect of formulations and develop technologies to simplify product usage. Take anti-aging. We elucidate the mechanism of action of our active ingredients. More importantly, we ensure that end-users see and experience the efficacy. Our anti-aging concepts, whether via skin integrity preservation or mechanical and biological stress relief, are effective and feel effective. How about joining our well-being Feelosophy?
Topical and Oral Anti-InflammatoriesThere are more than 50 different topical products in the marketplace with powerful anti-inflammatory activity. According to the results of a literature search, Perricone patented many topical anti-inflammatory ingredients in the early 1990s. Topical vitamin E is also an anti-inflammatory antioxidant. Chamomile leaves have a well-established anecdotal reputation for their soothing, anti-inflammatory properties. Other botanicals including aloe, licorice, kukui nut, shea butter and avocado oil have been studied for their anti-inflammatory properties with proven benefits. Anti-inflammatories are used both to treat active redness and to calm skin to prevent flushing and skin sensitivity. Foods that tame inflammation include greens such as kale, spinach, brussel sprouts, dark leafy vegetables, salmon, flaxseeds, legumes, turmeric and fruits such as blueberries and strawberries.
Understanding inflammation will permit development of various therapeutic interventions that would minimize or prevent inflammation and subsequent aging of the skin. By linking so many illnesses to inflammation, researchers are now rethinking their assumptions about what makes us sick and are looking for ways to treat inflammation and perhaps avoid these outcomes. It is important to avoid irritating the skin. This means avoiding unprotected skin exposure to sun and stripping the skin with cosmetic preparations containing harsh chemicals.
References:1. Quan. T et al, Am. J. Pathol. 2004, 165:741-51.
and so is spinach!
53
Chapter 17
THE BENEFITS OF AYURVEDIC ANTI-AGING REGIMENS
AYURVEDA (pronounced: “Are-youvay-da”) is an Indian holistic medical system. The term is derived from the Sanskrit words, “ayur” meaning life and “veda,” knowledge or science. Vedas are India’s ancient and spiritual
scriptures. They view the body as part of the universe, sharing in its energy. Good health is achieved via the balance of these energies. This 5000-year-old life science still holds sway with consumers: from the average villager in India to Hollywood movie stars, many of whom turn to Ayurveda to nurture their spiritual side—and the stars and starlets are not alone. According to a recent study by the National Center for Health, almost 62% of Americans rely on complementary and alternative medicine, including prayer, for healing. People suffering from chronic diseases can be helped through natural herbal medicines and detox therapies. The Ayurvedic principles, with their emphasis on preserving and promoting healthy living, can be a part of one’s daily routines.
There is a fundamental understanding that there is a “cosmic intelligence” in each of us. Each is born with a unique combination of dosha (vata, pitta and kapha). The combination is known in Ayurveda as the psychosomatic constitution (prakruti). People are flocking to ayurvedic centers for their emotional well-being. With the work environment becoming increasingly competitive and stressful, Ayurvedic skin care therapies have gained in popularity. While most consumers have become increasingly knowledgeable and discerning in selecting Ayurvedic services, many others are confused by the variety of terms and treatments. This column will help clarify the principles of Ayurvedic anti-aging science.
Mind-Body ClassificationsAyurveda can help achieve optimal physical, mental and emotional health by living in harmony with nature. Known as doshas (pronounced “doe-shah”), it refers to the body’s natural intelligence, the subtle energy that directs all bodily and natural functions. In Ayurveda, there are three mind-body types: vata, pitta and kapha, which define a person’s constitution. Everyone has all three doshas in their body, but their ratio of one to the other varies, which explains why each one of us is unique. The blend of doshas determines how we look, act and feel inside. Understanding doshas could lead to customized skin and health treatment.
Life’s journey is divided into three segments: birth to 16 is the kapha age, 16 to 50 is the pitta age and 50 to 100 is the vata age. The three main psycho-physiological
54 THE BENEFITS OF AYURVEDIC ANTI-AGING REGIMENS
functional principles of the body determine one’s constitution and maintain the integrity of the human body. Doshas govern one’s response to changes. When disturbed, they can initiate the disease process.
Vata (“vah-tah”): When this dosha is in balance, we feel centered, vital, and able to cope with anything. Vata types are dominated by the air element and tend to be thin, quick and energetic. When vata is out of balance, we feel distracted, restless and as if we’re running on empty. Vata energy increases when we are stressed and as we get older. Vata means wind, a sort of life energy that is distributed to the rest of the body. It is responsible for movement of every kind. If vata is disturbed, you will experience severe aging symptoms. It is the easiest dosha to become imbalanced, but it is also relatively easy to bring into balance. One who keeps vata in balance defeats the aging process of the body. It is associated with bodily movement and governs breathing, blinking, muscle and tissue movement, pulsation of the heart and cytoplasm and cell membrane movement. Out of balance, vata produces fear and anxiety.
Pitta (“pih-tah”): Corresponds to the elements of fire and water. Pitta governs digestion, absorption, assimilation, metabolism and body temperature. Pitta types have qualities relating to heat or burning and might be considered hot-tempered and competitive. In balance, pitta promotes understanding and intelligence. Out of balance, pitta arouses anger, hatred and jealousy. When this dosha is in balance, we feel happy, fulfilled and in love with life. We glow with health and feel extremely exuberant. When it is out of balance, we feel frustrated, anger easily and sometimes the skin breaks out in rashes. This dosha increases with hot weather and atmospheric pollution. To keep this dosha in balance, drink plenty of water and eat lot of greens. Keeping Pitta in balance would promote a constant feeling of happiness.
Kapha (“kah-fah”): Kapha types keep Kapha in balance.
Body TreatmentsBeauty and health are intimately connected. When we experience inner good health and disease-free skin, we are radiant. Alternatively, when we are in poor health, this radiance is diminished. Ayurveda recognizes that internal harmony and balance are extremely important in generating well-being. Here are some key Ayurvedic treatments:
A Shirodhara treatment pours a fine stream of oil on the middle of the forehead, a region known as the “third eye” or ajana chakra.
55 THE BENEFITS OF AYURVEDIC ANTI-AGING REGIMENS
Pulse Diagnosis: By examining pulse-points, facial bones and fingernails, a personalized therapy plan is developed. Oils, spices and herbs are mixed and cooked in cauldrons, sometimes for weeks and months, to get the right effect. For these formulas to be effective, it is important to rigidly follow the text prescribed process. Complete Body Analysis: Indepth analysis of your etheric and astral body, and seven chakras, which are the energy centers in the body related to nerve plexus centers. Each Chakra is a reservoir of consciousness. The term chakra means “wheel” in Sanskrit. They are the wheels of energy that have, depending on their location, different attributes and functions. For example, a Shirodhara treatment pours a fine stream of oil on the middle of the forehead, a region known as the “third eye” or ajana chakra. This analysis and treatment helps one connect with his inner core, to bring balance and a permanent path of wellness.
Nutritional Counseling: Dietary advice is based on food’s flavor rather than its nutritional content. Emphasis is placed on balancing temperamental and physical needs by adjusting your diet. One may also be advised on proper breathing technique and exercise. The consumer is guided to be his own healer and find out what diet is most suitable for the digestive capacity in order to cleanse the body, steadily lose weight and reach or maintain optimum health. Most ailments originate from the imbalance of the digestive system. With proper nutrition, balance, wellness and beauty are possible. In Ayurveda, nutrition includes four pillars: food, breath, asanas (exercise techniques) and sleep/meditation.
Abhyanga Massage: Performed with infused oil blends, this massage improves circulation and drains toxins. Abhyanga revitalizes organs and slows decay due to aging. It opens all channels in the body, ensuring good circulation of energy and bringing vitality and vigor. There are different types of Abhyangas. In Basic Abhyanga, the body’s meridians (energy flow pathways) are invigorated with infused oil blends to make circulation more effective. Marma Abhyanga works on cellulite, weight and pain reduction, detoxification and body tone. Marmas are points on the body that awaken it to engage in its own balancing process. These energy points are connected to the inner pathways of healing. Of the 107 marma points on the body, 37 of them are on the face, head, neck and shoulders, which is one reason why facials are particularly beneficial to wellbeing. Marmas can be learned in sequences to help prevent common diagnosis and treatment. Diagnosis is not made by skin type but by body type (dosha), then an individualized regimen is prescribed that includes the use of herbs, roots, flowers, minerals and essential oils. Prior to any treatment, skin is detoxified by using herbal oils, salves and decoction of different herbs and minerals. Skin is the body’s largest detoxification organ.
Skin TypesAyurveda categorizes skin into seven major types: Vata, Pitta, Kapha, Vata-Pitta, Pitta-Kapha, Kapha-Vata and Vata-Pitta-Kapha. Vata skin is usually dry, flaky and itchy. Winter season worsens these symptoms. Pitta skin is moist and oily. It is easily sunburned and is prone to acne, freckles and moles. Kapha skin is primarily oily, smooth and delicate. It is prone to fluid accumulation, so puffy eyes and under eye circles are common. Vatta-Pitta skin is dry in winter and oily in summer. It cracks and easily develops inflammation. Pitta-Kapha skin texture is oily and during winter it gets dry and is prone to acne and skin cancer. Kapha-Vatta skin is usually clear and has good skin tone. Vata-Pitta-Kapha skin is fairly well-balanced and has even skin tone.But whatever the skin type, with the proper routine, a consumer can achieve healthy, beautiful skin. The regimen consists of several steps. First, skin gets detoxed via Panchakarma, a five-step purification process that includes oil massage, sweat therapies, enemas, purgatives, emetics and changes to the diet. Detoxification
56 THE BENEFITS OF AYURVEDIC ANTI-AGING REGIMENS
achieves three objectives: health maintenance, disease treatment and preparation for rejuvenation. These five measures eliminate excess dosha or ama from the body and are used for internal purification. They are vomiting (ramana), purgation (virechna), medicated oil or decoction enema (basti), bloodletting (rakta moksha) and nasal administration of specific medication (nasya).
A daily, full body oil massage is ideal for keeping skin healthy and beautiful. For consumers with pitta imbalance, sunflower oil should be used. For consumers with vata imbalance, sesame oil should be used and for consumers with kapha imbalance, corn oil should be used. For skin and hair cleansing, neem or sandalwood soap is ideal for bathing, but they should be used sparingly to maintain skin softness and luster. Pitta skin tends to be oily and may require more soap. Hair should be washed with a shampoo containing Shikaki, an herb that leaves hair lustrous, clean and shiny. A gentle towel massage is performed after bathing to improve cutaneous circulation, remove dead skin and help skin look young. Three or four cups of herbal tea, containing ginger, cinnamon, licorice and chamomile, are consumed daily. Small amounts of turmeric must be included in the diet to achieve radiant beautiful skin. Daily exposure to early morning sun improves skin tone and circulation. Add carrot and beet juices to the diet to increase iron and improve skin tone. Deep breathing improves circulation and skin tone. Finally, meditation and yoga reduce stress and keep the body flexible and lean.
The surge of interest in this system of holistic health and medicine is a cause for concern because finding an Ayurvedic doctor with proper qualifications is challenging.
Some ConcernsQuackery is common, especially in the West, where Ayurvedic cosmetics are considered exotic and high-end. Yet in India, they are mass marketed and billed as an inexpensive alternative to allopathic treatment. Ayurveda provides not only curative solutions, but preventive treatments. To achieve the full benefits, one must meditate, eat a healthy organic diet and exercise daily.The Ayurvedic lifestyle is being embraced around the world. Still, the lack of regulations for preparing Ayurvedic medicines is a serious area of concern. A study, published in the Journal of the American Medical Association in 2004, called “Heavy Metal Content of Ayurvedic Herbal Medicine Products,” found that one of five Ayurvedic herbal medicine products produced in South Asia, and available in Boston South Asian grocery stores, contained potentially harmful levels of lead, mercury and arsenic. According to the authors, users of Ayurvedic medicine may be at risk for heavy metal toxicity, and they suggest mandatory testing of these medicines for the presence of heavy metals. To make actives more effective requires an understanding of their mode of action.
References:1. International SPA Association, Spa Industry Study (2004).
57
Chapter 18
ANTI-AGING AND AYURVEDA ARE PART OF WELL-BEING
Ayurveda is fast-becoming a preferred lifestyle option around the world, and it is poised for a quantum leap today as Western companies realize its potential and Western consumers realize its benefits. Ayurveda is the age-old science
of well-being, which has the benefit of making consumers look younger and feel vibrant. The numbers may seem a bit dated, but US retail sales of homeopathic and herbal remedies reached $6.4 billion in 2012, up almost 3% from 2011, and grew 16% during the five-year period. Now, Mintel forecasts sales to increase to $7.5 billion by 2017, as Americans become proactive about their health. Growth is fueled by product availability in mass retailers. This column reviews the ancient Ayurvedic anti-aging treatment known as Kaya Kalpa, a therapy that holds skin health mirrors the health of the overall body and mind. The goal of Kaya Kalpa is to slow the aging process. Kaya means body and kalpa means transformation. Its goal is to stop the degradation of the body by rejuvenating cells and tissues through a holistic transformation of mind, body and soul. Kaya Kalpa uses several physical and mental disciplinary methods with special therapeutic preparations to rebuild the body’s cells and tissues after the patient has completed initial process of detoxification, through Panchakarma. The treatments literally transform old cells to new again, according to practioners.
Ancient Ayurveda treatments may hold the key to healthy skin.
58 ANTI-AGING AND AYURVEDA ARE PART OF WELL-BEING
Well-Guarded SecretsThese ancient treatments remain wellguarded secrets to this day. It has been said that only royals and rishis (sages) could undertake such intense treatment, because it requires money, time and spiritual discipline. One is sequestered for 90 days in a “kuti,” a specially-built cottage or hut that is cut off from light. For the next three months, the patient remains in darkness, shielded from sunlight and outside visitors. During this time, the patient undergoes complete purification of the body through the Panchakarma detoxification process. Certain herbal pastes are rubbed on the body to exfoliate the skin, and allowed to dry, drawing out toxins. Medicinal plants, leeches, sweating and vomiting therapies detoxify organs.
Throughout the process, diet is minimal and liquid fasts encouraged. Some yogis drink only warm cow’s milk. Special salts are ingested to preserve the body. After weeks of cleansing the body of impurities, it is made ready for re-nourishing tissues at the deepest levels. Abhyanga massages, mineral baths and Shirodhara, sacred essential oils and precious gems, are used to anoint the body. At this time, immune boosting Rasayana herbs and fresh juices are given. These tonics are full of antioxidants to repair and prevent free radical damage. Legendary rasayanas, such as the soma plant, which is found in the mountains of India, is said to be one of the secret ingredients to ensure youth. Patients undergo daily spa therapies, performing tapas (austerity), meditating, reciting mantras and practicing yogic breath. The therapy essentially cleans their physical bodies and transforms their emotions by releasing anger and grief in order to cultivate inner peace.
After 90 days, the patient emerges completely transformed. It is said that a person’s gray hair is replaced by dark hair, old teeth are replaced by new teeth, the complexion becomes fair, wrinkles smooth out and skin’s elasticity is restored. Eye sight and hearing improve drastically, agerelated aches and pains disappear, memory and concentration becomes sharp and there is spiritual clarity.
Further, normal and dense vibrations of the physical body become lighter. If done correctly, according to the original manuscripts written on palm leaves, one is said to gain immortality. That probably won’t happen, but Kalpa is truly the culmination of all Aurvedic knowledge and therapies. In many cities of India and health resorts of Kerala, Kayakalpa schemes are being offered. The Kerala region, which boasts two rainy seasons, is said to be ideal for such treatments. The rates depend on the number of days one decides to undergo the treatment. Typically, one can choose a treatment package of 7-, 14- or 21 days.
Off to Detox!Detoxification, rejuvenation and nutrition help reverse the aging process. According to Ayurveda, the human body is made up of seven types of dhatu which are responsible for the functioning of the systems and organs and the structures of the body. Each dhatu builds on the one before it and they develop on the nourishment that comes from the digestive system. The sole purpose of metabolism is to assemble proper dhatus, which are base of growth and survival. Any kind of disturbance or imbalance in dhatu equilibrium causes ailments and diseases. The seven dhatus are rasa (plasma), rakta (blood), mansa (muscles), meda (fat), asthi (bone), majja (bone marrow) and shukra (reproductive fluid). Blood provides nourishment to the body, muscles are basic cover for the bone, fat provides lubrication between various body organs and helps maintain right body temperature, asthi gives structure to the body, bone marrow is found in the brain and spinal cord. It fills the bone, shukra—it is the cause of ojas, which is actually essence of all seven dhatus. The shukra is responsible for the body’s vitality and energy. Dhatus are sites that doshas enter when they cause disease.
59 ANTI-AGING AND AYURVEDA ARE PART OF WELL-BEING
An understanding of doshas is important to understanding pathology—what goes wrong in the body. Some key treatments include Rasayana, the branch of Ayurveda that deals with the promotion of the positive health by eliminating the ill effects of old age, thereby improving the quality of life. They are available in the form of tonics and medicines. They are rich in herbs which have the power of rejuvenation along with lot of micronutrients. All are said to rejuvenate the mind and body and boost immunity.
Rejuvenation is a unique specialty of Ayurveda, and has been confirmed in gerontology. It is part of the eight major branches of Ayurveda. Panchakarma reverses the path of the disease. It is a Sanskrit word meaning five actions or five treatments. It is a process to clear the body of toxic materials, called Ama, left by disease or poor nutrition. This foul-smelling, residual “sludge” must be completely evacuated from the body. Its removal purifies the tissues at a very deep level. Other treatments include daily massages, oil baths, herbal enemas and nasal cleansing. All these treatments should be done yearly in order to maintain mental and physical hygiene and balance.
Ayurvedic preparations have a long, uninterrupted history of use. But Ayurveda is not just about medicine. It is about healing, energy, kindness and compassion; as a result, many consumers are turning to Ayurveda to nurture their spiritual side and, at the same time, boost their overall sense of well-being.
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Chapter 19
TERMINALIA: AN AYURVEDIC SUPER ANTI-AGER?
Ayurveda is one of the ancient medical traditions practiced in India and other south Asian countries. Ayurvedic cosmetics founded on ancient principles of Ayurveda have seen a steady rise in sales in recent months and is emerging
as a new growth frontier for beauty business.The goal of the Ayurvedic treatments is not only to bring about the slowing down
of the aging process but also to make the body work at its best and bring vitality and peace to individuals.
Herbal anti-aging treatments are now being accepted by the scientific communities with Ayurvedic treatment being the most well known.
According to Ayurvedic treatment experts, maintaining a perfect balance among three aspects of the body—vata, kapha and pitta—is the secret to staying young looking and healthy.This column will briefly explore anti aging properties of Triphala and Chebula species of Terminalia because it has potent anti-aging benefits.1 Its other two species, which are stronger in health claims, are Arjuna and Bellevice.
Chebula species of Terminalia.
61 TERMINALIA: AN AYURVEDIC SUPER ANTI-AGER?
Clinical StudiesIn traditional Ayurvedic medicine, terminalia has been used for years as a healthharmonizer. Its wide array of benefits are mostly attributed to its high content of phenolic compounds, flavanol glycosides and other phytonutrients.2 It has both health and anti-aging benefits and has been used to treat chronic ulcers as well as dental caries and heart ailments.
Other traditional indications include asthma, urinary disorders, wound healing and for promoting overall health and vitality of the body.
In one research study, T. Chebula fruit extract demonstrated an inhibitory effect on the age-dependant shortening of the telomeres and UVB-induced oxidative damage in-vitro.3
Another research study, “Evidence Based Complement Alternate Medicine (2014:2014:701656),” reported that T. Chebula extract effectively scavenged free radicals and enhanced proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts— leading to the conclusion that it promotes cellular proliferation while also inhibiting production of free radicals.3
A 5% topical preparation of T. Chebula was evaluated in another research study on the cheeks of human volunteers for eight weeks. This study concluded that the product provided significant improvement in skin moisture content, erythema, and overall rejuvenated human skin.4 T. Chebula’s phenolic compounds gallic acid, chebulagic acid, and chebulinic acid were isolated and evaluated.
They exhibited greater radical scavenging and melanin-inhibitory activity than the reference compounds ascorbic acid, BHT, alpha-tocopherol, arbutin and kojic acid proving its anti-oxidant and depigmenting benefits.
Antioxidant-Rich TriphalaTriphala is an antioxidant-rich herbal composition that combines fruits of three Terminalia species. It is especially revered for its ability to aid in balancing the three doshas (vata, pitta and kapha). Any imbalance in the doshas can affect you not just physically, but emotionally and spiritually as well.
In traditional Ayurvedic medicine, terminalia has been used for years as a health harmonizer.
62 TERMINALIA: AN AYURVEDIC SUPER ANTI-AGER?
Several studies in Ayurveda have demonstrated that triphala is a strong source of natural antioxidants and exhibits a broad range of beneficial effects including free radical scavenging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, anti-bacterial and wound healing.
Ayurvedic spas offer triphala masks. The high levels of antioxidants give you an anti-aging boost while simultaneously helping to clear the skin.
ConclusionsThe association between Ayurveda, antiaging and cosmeceuticals is gaining importance in the health and wellness sector. There is ample evidence supporting multiple biologic and anti-aging properties of these Ayurvedic herbal preparations. In the West, it is not a standard ingredient in dermatology practice.
Additional human clinical studies might confirm the age-old medical and anti-aging benefits that Ayurvedic science have always practiced since time immemorial.
References:1. Int. J. Mol Med. 2011 DEC, 28(6): 10134-82. Evid. Based Complement Alternat Med. 2014: 2014:7016563. Phytother Res 2004 Sep : 18 : 737-414. Pak J. Biol Sci 2007 Jul 1:10 (13) 2241-56
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Chapter 20
MIT ADDS A NEW WRINKLE TO ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGY
Consumers go to great lengths to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. MIT researchers took a very scientific approach to this problem and created a cream with impressive anti-wrinkle results. This column will briefly review
the chemistry and benefits of this special cream, which is known as XPL (crosslinked polymer layer) or “second skin.”
The MIT research team set out to develop a protective coating that could restore the properties of healthy skin for medical and cosmetic applications. In their research, the group created hundreds of siloxane cross-linked polymers (XPL). Researchers selected a safe, biocompatible polysiloxane-based material because it can be finely tuned to modulate properties such as spreadability, strength, elasticity, flexibility, elongation, contractility, adhesion and permeability. MIT published its study on the XPL in the journal, Nature Materials. XPL is the result of a collaboration between MIT and two biotech companies, Living Proof and Olivio Laboratories. Now they are exploring medical uses for this cream, which not only masks wrinkles, but actually mimics the properties of normal, youthful skin.
XPL is applied in two steps. First, a transparent cream containing the polymer is worked into the skin. Next, a catalyst is applied that binds the cream to the skin as a transparent film. It is said to dry in just a minute, withstands washing and sweating, and falls off the skin after a few days, although it can also be removed with a polymer dissolving solution. MIT Professor Robert Langer describes it as “essentially an elastic second skin.”1
MIT’s cream sounds like the sort of thing that will have aging Hollywood stars beating down the doors of the University’s science lab, but the technology has its limits. The catch is that, it is only temporary. You can use it to appear flawless on the red carpet during Oscar Night. However, its application and duration characteristics are such that, it is not going to smooth your crow’s feet for all eternity.
Human TrialsScientists conducted multiple studies to test XPL’s safety and effectiveness. All product ingredients are FDA-approved and researchers say that among the 170 subjects tested, not one person reported irritation or had an allergic reaction.Under-eye bags are essentially caused by protrusion of the fat pad underlying the skin of the lower eyelid. The researchers targeted under-eye skin due to the
64 MIT ADDS A NEW WRINKLE TO ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGY
proliferation of sagging, puffy skin there. They selected a combination of solvents and concentrations that would provide sufficient compression to shrink the skin with minimal discomfort. The film is tens-of-thousands less than a millimeter thick and applied on the skin as an undetectable coating.
XPL was tested on eye bags and researchers noted how the skin tightened and wrinkles disappeared for up to 24 hours. Once applied, it is resistant to water and rubbing, and it helps skin remain hydrated. Previously, results such as these were only achieved through an invasive surgical procedure called
Blepheroplasty. Second skin is an invisible layer that can provide a barrier, provide cosmetic improvement, and potentially deliver a drug locally to the area that is being treated. Two hours after application, skin treated with XPL lost much less water than skin treated with a high-end commercial moisturizer. It was further determined that skin coated with petrolatum was as effective as XPL in tests done two hours after treatment but after 24 hours, the skin treated with XPL had retained much more water.
As skin ages, it becomes less firm and elastic. To measure these properties, XPL was applied to forearm skin. When the XPL treated skin was stretched with a suction cup, it returned to its original position faster than untreated skin. The researchers think the same thing could work for other body parts that have lost elasticity too, such as cellulite.
According to Barbara Gilchrist MD, a dermatologist at Massachusetts General Hospital and a co-author of the paper, prior to XPL, the materials did not have the properties of being flexible, comfortable, non-irritating nor able to conform to the movement of the skin and still return to its original shape. Outside researchers are weighing in on XPL, too. Dr. Thahn Nagg Tran, a dermatologist and instructor at Harvard Medical School who was not involved in this research, said that XPL has great potential for both cosmetic and non-cosmetic applications, especially if it could contain antimicrobial agents or medication. Dr. Richard Glogan, a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco tested a similar polymer-based product and commented that this XPL technology definitely works; thanks to its thin application, the film looks natural and feels basically like firm skin. Once applied, the polymer starts tightening the skin, leading some to call it “Spanx for the skin.”
Dr. Samir Mitragotri studies drug delivery through the skin in his lab at the University of California, Santa Barbara. He suggested that he had never seen before any material so transparent and so effective at changing the mechanical properties of the skin. He referred to this technology as “radical and revolutionary technology.”
“It can be used as sort of a Band-Aid over old and aging skin and get very significant results,” suggested Gordana Vunjak-Novakovic, a biomedical engineer at Columbia University.
The film developers also suggest that it can be used to help skin retain moisture or deliver drugs to treat eczema, dermatitis and other skin conditions.
Cautiously OptimisticThe study looks impressive with its various potential applications, and doctors remain cautiously optimistic, as the study still requires in-depth research and
Hope in a film? XPL reportedly mimics the properties of normal, youthful skin.
65 MIT ADDS A NEW WRINKLE TO ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGY
experiments. One major drawback, however, is that the effects don’t last more than 24 hours. Even though XPL seems to provide a more notable, immediate effect, whether it will ever become an affordable beauty aid, is another matter entirely. For now, it can’t be layered on or worn under makeup, limitations that will turn off a large portion of its cosmetic customer base.
References:1. Sci-tech, May 9, 2016. A. Kooser
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Chapter 21
ARE NEW FORMS OF MELANIN ON THE HORIZON?
Sales of prestige skin care products with SPF reached $1.4 billion in 2016, growing 7% during the past two years, according to The NPD Group. Even self-tanners have returned to growth after years of declining sales, which is indicative of the
widespread concern consumers have about UV exposure. As a result, more people are opting for a UV-free alternative for a summer glow.In this column, we will briefly review the latest research on how nano engineers have developed melanin-imitating nanoparticles that protect skin cells from within, and the ongoing research into melanin’s transport, distribution and capabilities in human keratinocytes.
Colorful creatures. Melanin is the reason for these highly pigmented feathers.
67 ARE NEW FORMS OF MELANIN ON THE HORIZON?
Natural and SyntheticMelanin is a powerful antioxidant and a natural substance found in humans. It is a complex polymer derived from the amino acid tyrosine, and it influences skin color. Lack of tyrosine can lead to vitiligo and albinism. Tyrosine is only found in specialized cells called melanocytes, inside of which are tiny granules of melanin pigment contained in vesicles called melanosomes.
These melanosomes leave the melanocytes and migrate into other cells in the epidermis around the cell’s nuclei. People with more natural melanin have darker skin and those with less melanin have a paler skin tone. Melanin is also responsible for the dark brown and black pigments that we see in hair color.
Melanin is produced naturally, but its production is also stimulated by exposure to the sun. This is the reason why, when we lie in the sun, it triggers more melanin production which causes our skin to become darker. Dark skin that contains more melanin is less likely to be affected by the sun’s dangerous UVA and UVB rays, which are known to cause skin cancer. Boosting melanin content in skin may reduce the effects of early skin damage and reduce the signs of aging. Darker skin is more resistant to the damaging and burning rays of the sun that can cause wrinkles and other skin problems that come with aging.
An enormous range of melanin particles are produced in nature too, such as pigmented bird feathers. Extracting melanin from nature is a complicated task compared to synthesizing melanin in the lab. Researchers hypothesize that synthetic melanin-like nanoparticles would mimic naturally-occurring melanosomes and also be taken up by keratinocytes, the predominant cell type that is found in the epidermis. They were also prompted to search for novel synthetic routes for preparing melanin-like materials because melanin-related diseases are widespread and there is a growing interest in the performance of various polymeric materials related to melanin.
Sun Care ApplicationsResearchers at the University of California, San Diego have created a sunscreen that both mimics and enhances the skin’s natural protective abilities. Scientists discovered that biocompatible melanin-like nanoparticles can be synthesized through the oxidation of dopamine. This technology allows for the controlled production of synthetic melanin, which mimics the behavior of melanin found in bird feathers. They bathed dopamine, a signaling chemical found in the brain and other parts of the body, in an alkaline solution. This resulted in melanin-like nanoparticles with shells and cones made of polydopamine, a dopamine-based polymer.
When incubated in a petri dish with human keratinocytes, these synthetic particles were absorbed by the skin cells and distributed around their nuclei-like natural melanin. According to Professor Nathan Gianneschi, like melanin, the synthetic material functions as a pigment to darken skin. But the synthetic material doesn’t just fill the cells and make them darker, it actually structures them. The researchers incubated skin cells with nanoparticles and then exposed them to UV radiation for three days. Fifty percent of the skin cells that absorbed the nanoparticles survived compared with just 10% of those without nanoparticles.1
In a cell culture study, synthetic melanin was taken up by human skin cells. They were distributed normally by the keratinocytes in the epidermis, but they also protected human skin cells from UV radiation damage. These nanoparticles are comparable to the naturally-occurring particles in skin and could have many practical applications including a more effective topical sunscreen. Although the synthetic nanoparticle melanin can be formulated into a cream, more research is
68 ARE NEW FORMS OF MELANIN ON THE HORIZON?
needed, according to the lead researcher. The challenge now is to translate this into fully intact tissues to see if it is possible to adapt it to a topical formulation.If the synthetic melanin nanoparticles created in this study were produced in a topical solution, it could mean a much more effective sunscreen.
ConclusionThis discovery, if proven safe and effective, potentially could have practical applications for the treatment of melanin-deficient disorders such as vitiligo and albinism and even act a natural sunscreen. In both cases, patients are at a higher risk of developing skin cancer. In laboratory tests using tissue culture, researchers showed the nanoparticles are absorbed and distributed throughout keratinocytes just like natural melanin. The nanoparticles also protected skin cells from DNA damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.
References:1. Scientific American, January 2017.
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Chapter 22
A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES
ANTI-AGING creams and treatments are a big business these days because everyone wants to look good and ultimately, feel better. Whether we like it or not, looks do count!
Appearance has become an obsession for women and men, and this concern only intensifies as they age. Sales of anti-aging products are predicted to grow by 35% between 2004 and 2009, reaching $2.4 billion by 2009, according to Euromonitor. Total skin care product sales are forecast to grow 6% to $7.5 billion in 2009.
Consumers scan the internet, print and TV media to learn about all sorts of new anti-aging technologies, raw materials, botanicals and new delivery systems, all allegedly offering health and beauty enhancing benefits and compelling product performance claims. The FDA is primarily concerned with safety. So if the product is safe, the companies have a lot of liberty in terms of their exaggerations and their ability to promote and advertise their products, which has many of the companies making claims that are just not true.
What Consumers WantWe have all heard that consumers are well educated and very demanding, but is this really true? Let us also see how well informed they are. We get our answer in a survey sponsored a year ago by the Society of Dermatology Skincare Specialists (SDSS). It asked American women who use skin care products to answer a few simple questions about skin care, including identifying which types of ingredients they should use to treat common skin concerns such as dark spots, fine lines/wrinkles around the eyes or inflammation and bruising. Age, level of education and household income did not seem to matter; the results were poor all across the board.
According to Susanne Warfield, executive director of SDSS, the survey demonstrates that women who do not go to a skin care expert, such as a dermatologist or a licensed aesthetician, may be using wrong products, which may actually be making their condition worse. This survey also showed that U.S. women may be wasting money, as they spent an average of approximately $28 per month (or $336 per year) on skin care products that they rarely or never use because they are not right for them.
70 A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES
This column examines anti-aging science in three broad categories: technologies, new actives and botanicals. Let’s start with some of the newest ideas in anti-aging technology.Shock Chill the Skin: Talk about cold cream! Ice-Source is a new French cream featuring rapid refrigeration packaging that drops the product’s temperature from 22°C to 2°C in two minutes. The low temperature enables the cream to enter the skin better, creating a mini face-lift effect that lasts for eight hours. According to the manufacturer, the high-speed cooling causes the molecular retraction of a natural lipid inside the cream, which can penetrate deeply into the skin. Once the cream equilibrates to body temperature, the lipids regain their initial structure and fill the wrinkles by pushing them toward the skin surface.
The face, now smoothed and plumped, seems to have undergone an instant lifting. This product sells for $350 for 22 ml and is suitable for just a few topical applications. Ice-Source may produce temporary botox-like effects, but botox injections provide months of wrinkle relief and cost only a bit more.
But just how can refrigerating a cream make it fast absorbing? Actually, when frozen, the emulsion ingredients can barely be rubbed into the skin, making it unlikely that it would even get past the epidermis. The only temporary benefit of sudden cooling is constriction of blood vessels which result in transient skin tightening, and hydration which may have a short term beneficial effect. Neither is comparable to the effects produced by injected botox. Furthermore, it is possible that sudden change of temperature could induce redness which could be a real problem for those with rosacea.
Ozone Exposure: Chronic ozone exposure damages skin, but a brief exposure offers therapeutic benefits. G.Valacchi and colleagues published a study in British Journal of Dermatology (2005,153(6): 1096- 1100), in which they found that a progressive depletion of antioxidant content occurrs in the stratum corneum, which may lead to a cascade of effects resulting in an active cellular response in the deeper layers of the skin. Using an in-vivo model, they have shown an increase of proliferative, adaptive and pro-inflammatory cutaneous tissue responses.
No matter what their age, more consumers are purchasing anti-aging products.
71 A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES
In the same study, the authors investigated topical application of ozonated olive oil in several kinds of skin infection (including sores, diabetic ulcers, burns, traumatic and surgical wounds, abscesses and skin reactions after radiation). They observed an excellent cleansing effect with improved oxygenation and enhanced healing of these conditions.
Delivery Systems: B&P Company and Peter Passalacqua have developed a facial skin treatment known as Immune Perfect. When the product is applied to the skin, the caramel colored emulsion becomes clear and allegedly immediately penetrates the skin without residue, according to the manufacturer.
Cellulite: FDA has granted a 510(K) pre marketing clearance to Syneron’s VelaSmooth medical device. It offers an effective treatment for those seeking a medical solution to cellulite. It is powered by Electro-optical synergy (ELOS). According to Tina Alster, a clinical professor of dermatology at Georgetown University, VelaSmooth incorporates a combination of technologies enabling deeper heating and mechanical manipulation of cellulite in a non-invasive manner. It is only sold to physicians for use by trained professionals under their direction.
Oral/Topical: Keratec, a New Zealand biotechnology company, has developed two new natural raw materials: Cynergy TK, a topical active, and Cynergy NK, an oral supplement. Both are used simultaneously for synergistic effects. They contain keratin extracted from New Zealand sheep wool. Keratin, a structural protein, is a main constituent of hair and skin and has cell strengthening and softening properties.
UV Damage Control: Helioplex is a patented complex that stabilizes avobenzone, an important UVA protectant. Unfortunately, the longer avobenzone remains on the skin and is exposed to UV radiation, the more it degrades, reducing the sun protection it affords. By stabilizing the ingredient, Helioplex provides enhanced UV protection, which is a major anti-aging benefit.
Heliocare capsules, manufactured by Ivax Dermatologicals, contain fern plant extracts which help stabilize the DNA in the cells and provide some protection from UV damage. Heliocare should be taken as a vitamin supplement—although users must still apply sunscreen, wear protective clothing or minimize exposure altogether.
Similarly, Sun Pill reportedly protects the skin against sun damage. But dermatologists are less than enthusiastic about these daily sun protection pills that work in conjunction with sunscreen lotions.
Night Creams: These overnight creams are said to work their magic while you sleep, but do they really work? Yes, says Richard Glogau a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. Dr. Glogau maintains that without the environmental distractions and with cells’ natural ability to renew during the night, the right treatment can help make the complexion look fresher and brighter.
Another study found that the skin temperature increases during sleep and that warmer skin absorbs more of a skin care product’s active ingredients. Consumers are advised to choose a night cream that is packed with vitamins to maximize the benefits. These include Almay Antiaging Night Concentrate, Clinique Repairwear intensive night cream, Lancôme Renergie Night and Sally Hanson Nighttime Heal Repair ointment.
Facial Stimulators: These devices are based on the medicallyunproven hypothesis that electrical stimulation of facial muscles improves tone, and hence reduces the signs of aging.
But according to a research study conducted by Sam Most of University of Washington Medical Center’s Cosmetic Surgery Center, there was no detectable improvement in signs of facial aging from the use of facial stimulator devices.
72 A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES
New ActivesMuscle relaxant: Gamma amino butyric acid (GABA) has entered a category dominated by peptides. According to the manufacturer, Freeze 24-7 contains GABA which produces visible reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, without side effects. It is not however known how soon the beneficial effect is produced or how long it lasts.
Polypeptides: R3P Cream is formulated with three polypeptides, sugar derivative, green tea, white tea, grape seed, shea butter and olive oil as skin emollients and moisturizers. This peptide-based cream is said to boost collagen and elastin formation to improve skin texture, clarity and tone. But the manufacturer won’t say how long the consumer must wait to see results or how long they last.
Glucosamine: Best known for treating arthritis, it is recognized for stopping the formation of new age spots and also helps fade the existing ones. According to Alexa Kimball, assistant professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School, these findings on glucosamine may impact the way dermatologists treat UV related skin damage in the future.
Amino acids: Many skin creams contain collagen, which supposedly nourishes the skin and reverses the signs of aging. But collagen is not absorbed through the skin and hence does not increase the production of collagen. Applying collagen cream may make skin look firm, but this may be due to hydration that could be achieved by any moisturizer.
The question is, how you deliver collagen to the skin? Saverio Dioguardi, a professor of internal medicine and gastroenterology, has researched the skin’s ability to absorb amino acids. He discovered that, with the right vehicle, amino acids form a functional cluster that gets absorbed deep into the dermis, sending a message to fibroblast cells to stimulate collagen production. Collagen is a large, fibrous protein that keeps skin supple and smooth. Clinical study results showed remarkable reduction in the depth of wrinkles and rejuvenated skin.
Chelator: Believe it or not, your skin could develop problems if you drink tap water. According to dermatologist Dennis Gross, heavy metals and other impurities found in water can build up on the skin’s surface. His Hydra-Pure chelating complex eliminates these heavy metals. In fact, Dr. Gross predicts that chelators could be as important as sunscreens for the complexion. Still, I wonder just how universal this problem really is? After all, don’t most households have water purifiers or filters which remove heavy metals anyway? Furthermore, many of the products available on the market today already contain chelators, which are added in the product to enhance the efficacy of the preservative system.
Elastatropin: This product, from DermaPlus, Inc., contains Tropoelastin, a precursor to human elastin and a complex chain of more than 600 amino acids. Clinical studies showed a significant reduction in the onset of wrinkles and facial sagging. According to the company, the active compound enters into the outer skin layers, crosslinks with other skin proteins and expands the flexible backbone of the skin. The cream reduces the need for botox or cosmetic surgery and extends the life of previous procedure.
As most well known brands such as Olay Regenerist and Strivectin have less then 10 amino acids containing peptides, it would be safe to assume the product efficacy is comparable or better.
BotanicalsRevive skin: Kosé Corp. recently reported that birch sap helps revive human skin and boosts its ability to retain moisture. However, Kosé did not specify which
73 A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES
fraction of the sap has skin-friendly effects. Sap was applied to human epidermal cells. Compared with untreated cells, the sap-enhanced cells showed more than a 100-fold surge in production of involucrin, a protein for forming cell layers, and a 50% increase in filaggrin, another protein that boosts skin moisture.
Body odor: Offensive body odor may be due to a certain diet or medical condition, but whatever the cause, Kanebo has come to the rescue. The company has developed Otoko Kaoru, a gum that contains geraniol, a fragrant component found in roses, that is also easily emitted from sweat glands. In theory, chewing this gum would leave consumer’s bodies smelling like a rose!
Skin is the first organ that reveals the effects of aging. Antioxidants, chemical peels, exfoliators and collagen stimulants all boost, rather than replace, skin’s natural activity. Additional research will provide plenty of new information. Of course, you cannot change your age, but biological aging can be delayed if the consumer follows a sensible diet, always protects the skin from sun and uses clinically proven anti-aging products.
Biological aging can be delayed with the right combination of diet, UV protection and skin care products.
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Chapter 23
A LOT OF NEW WRINKLES IN THE ANTI-AGING SEGMENT
DEMAND FOR COSMECEUTICALS will increase 8.1% a year to $6.4 billion by 2010, according to a study by The Freedonia Group, Cleveland, OH. Gains will be propelled by a stream of new and technologically advanced product
introductions offering age-defying and other appearance enhancing benefits for an aging population. The value of chemicals used in cosmeceutical products is expected to advance 8.4% a year to $960 million in 2010, with gains spurred by the use of new and higher value-added active ingredients in product formulations.
Skin care products are expected to dominate this demand for cosmeceuticals, with professional products experiencing the fastest growth with annual gains exceeding 15%. Botanical extracts and enzymes are among the chemicals expected to post a double-digit gains, according to the Fredonia Group. Meanwhile, Euromonitor predicts sales of antiaging facial products to reach nearly $5 billion by 2010.
Fighting AgingHealth and longevity are genetically programmed, yet all of us have some measure of control over whether we age well or badly. With advances in anti-aging research, it is possible to reverse some of the damage that aging inflicts on the body and take steps to fight aging when old skin loses collagen and elastin, progressing to a photo-damaged skin where collagen is degraded and elastin has thickened.
Wrinkle Anatomy: Over time, collagen and elastin are diminished, so the skin gets thinner and does a poor job of transporting moisture to the epidermis. Also, the fat in the subcutaneous layer begins to disappear and therefore the epidermis begins to sag and wrinkles form. Inflammatory reactions that are activated on the cells cause premature degradation of collagen and elastin by collagenase and elastase. Wrinkles occur naturally as a result of aging.
Wrinkle Causes: These include heredity, smoking, sun exposure, drug use, life style, alcohol abuse, skin type and improper diet.
Wrinkle Prevention Measures: The best treatment is prevention. Avoid sun and use sunscreen SPF30 every day. Do not smoke. Use topical anti-wrinkle creams every day. Use moisturizer daily. Drink plenty of water.
Wrinkle Creams-Mechanism of Action: Topically administered products must be absorbed into the skin and delivered to the target tissue in the active form for them to be effective. They hydrate the skin. They protect the skin from environmental
75 A LOT OF NEW WRINKLES IN THE ANTI-AGING SEGMENT
and lifestyle damages. They repair the damage caused by free radicals and scavenge them at the cellular level.
Demand for anti-aging products is growing more than 8% a year, say sources.
They encourage extra turnover of cells in the aging skin. Used properly, they will reduce the need for cosmetic surgery.The Food and Drug Administration prohibits cosmetic marketers from making claims that their products cure disease or alter the structure or function of the body. FDA will only examine product’s safety if a problem arises after it is launched in the market.
According to Daniel Behroozan, clinical instructor of dermatology at the University of California at Los Angeles, the number of officially recognized cosmetic ingredients has more than doubled in the past 12 years to 13,500 from 6,200 in 1994. Yet, for many of these ingredients no one has conducted independent clinical trials to measure their effectiveness.
Effective Anti-aging ActivesFace creams that have been proven to be effective at reducing wrinkles are those containing retinoic acid, available as Retin-A both in prescription and lower strengths. These creams work by stimulating the skin to produce more collagen, boost certain enzymes to reduce aging and correct pre-malignancy changes. Consumers should use these products with caution because they may irritate sensitive skin. Face creams containing vitamins C and E help to complex free radicals, reduce sun damage and boost collagen-forming compounds. Their efficacy is proportional to their use level and stability in the facial products. Facial products containing peptides stimulate enzymes in skin cells to produce more collagen. They are combined with other proven ingredients to provide amazing changes on skin. Facial products containing ceramides have shown excellent results on the skin. They are mixtures of skin barrier
Is La Mer more than a very nice moisturizer?
76 A LOT OF NEW WRINKLES IN THE ANTI-AGING SEGMENT
lipids and are often combined with other humectants to deliver excellent moisturizing benefits to skin. Facial products containing coenzyme Q-10 and idebenone have the ability to repair and protect the skin from sun damage. They help stabilize cell membranes and bring more oxygen into the cells, thereby generating healthy cell renewal and prevent fat molecules from becoming oxidized. There is some evidence to support the idea that co-enzyme Q10 in products such as Eucerin and Nivea helps skin protection.
Anti-aging ProductsThere are five forms of anti-aging products— creams, lotions, serums, toners and oral supplements. Vehicle choice is the most important decision that a marketer has to make. Making the right choice determines if the product will be greasy or smooth, enhance or retard the efficacy of the active, improve the skin barrier, induce allergic dermatitis or comedogenic potential to the product. Most of the creams and lotions are oil-in-water emulsions, because they are not greasy and are smooth to the touch.The active ingredient becomes part of either the oil or water phase depending upon its solubility. Toners are either aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions. They basically condition and soothe the skin and usually contain humectants, emollients, botanicals, fragrance and astringents. They are helpful in cleaning makeup residue, provide pH balance of the skin and provide relief from irritation and inflammation. Toners currently available on the market are mild and well formulated. The term serums, according to Jeannette Graf, assistant professor of dermatology at NYU Medical Center, sounds more scientific than it is. Throw in growth factors, biopeptides and MMP inhibitors— just a few of the ingredients found in the latest crop of concentrated skin elixirs—and we start having flashbacks to high school biology.
Some of these technologies have been used for years, while others represent new areas of study. Many companies are throwing around these terms and in some cases overstating the science. Generally serums are very fluid and easily spread and absorb into the skin making it soft. They are applied on a clean face followed by a moisturizer.
Oral supplements are marketed to stave off the negative effects of aging through a healthy diet, regular exercise and antioxidant ingredients such as vitamins and minerals from either foods or supplements. This supports the consumer demand for a healthier skin from the inside out.
Aging Phenomena ObservationsSkin becomes thinner primarily due to a loss of subcutaneous fat. The ceramide content of stratum corneum decreases with advancing age, presumably diminishing barrier function. Skin loses elasticity and tone because of changes in collagen.
Older skin usually does not contain as much hyaluronic acid as younger skin. Persons with high glutathione levels are bio-chemically young. Glutathione is a tri-peptide of glycine, cystine and glutamine. It is a major antioxidant in the body providing cell protection. Breaks in DNA strands generally accompany cell aging. This increasing instability of DNA in the cells is the aging process. UV rays and oxidative reactions cause the formation of free radicals. In turn, these inactivate or destroy phospholipids. The resulting lipid peroxides are somehow related to the number of inflammatory diseases and cancers. With age, skin cells divide more slowly and the dermis begins to thin. The elastin and collagen fibers loosen, causing depressions on the skin surface. Skin thus loses elasticity and is unable to retain moisture. Sebum glands also become less efficient, slowing the skin’s healing process. Cumulatively, these factors cause the formation of wrinkles.
77 A LOT OF NEW WRINKLES IN THE ANTI-AGING SEGMENT
Small facial muscle contractions, also known as laugh lines, cause frown lines as well as crow’s feet around the corner of the eyes. Over time, these lines become wrinkles, dark under eye circles and drooping eyelids. Smokers develop wrinkles faster than non-smokers because smoking causes a significant reduction in the production of collagen.
Ultraviolet radiation damages collagen fibers and causes excessive production of abnormal elastin—both leading to photodamage. Consequently metalloproteinase enzyme is generated resulting in a disorganized fiber structure. A repetitive nature of this process results in the formation of wrinkles. Drs. Barbara Gilchrest, professor and chair of dermatology at Boston University, School of Medicine and Gary Grove, president, skin study center, Broomall, PA, have each reported on the age-related decrease in barrier function of intact stratum corneum, which renders old skin more susceptible to irritant and allergic reactions.
Inflammatory response of older skin is also different than normal skin. According to the late Dr. Richard Stoughton, aging skin is paper thin, shriveled, cracked, lifeless, spotted, yellowish, hairless and hanging. But what’s worse, we really don’t know how it got that way.
Dermatological TreatmentsMelvin Elson, a dermatologist from Nashville, TN, speaking at the 63rd Dermatological Conference said that there are several types of facial aging that dermatologists evaluate. Intrinsic aging is the natural process that is characterized by loss of underlying fat resulting in a gaunt, thin look with hollowed cheeks and eye sockets. The treatment options for this type of aging are aimed at replacement of the lost tissue with solid implants, which are surgically placed under the skin, or fat
Is StriVectiin just as good as Botox?
78 A LOT OF NEW WRINKLES IN THE ANTI-AGING SEGMENT
transfer, where fat and tissue from other parts of the patients’ body are used to fill in deeper wrinkles and contour the “hills and valleys,” associated with aging.
Sleep lines etch the surface of the skin and result from putting the face into the same position on the pillow every night. These lines seem to diminish or disappear once a patient is no longer lying in bed, but by repeating this procedure every night, these lines return creating more damage. Dermatologists recommend the use of Botulinum rejuvenation to hold the skin taut. When injected, It causes a temporary relaxation of muscles. This procedure effectively reduces the appearance of facial lines, crow’s feet and wrinkles, when performed by a qualified physician.
Expression lines results from every smile, frown and laugh and affect the underlying collagen fibers. These lines are also known as laugh lines and are more noticeable around the eyes and the mouth. Botulinum rejuvenation softens or removes these lines. Another treatment option is soft tissue augmentation and a dermatologist can assist patients in selecting from the variety of Food and Drug Administration’s approved fillers, which produce immediate, yet temporary, results to improve the appearance of facial lines.
Forces at WorkGravity affects the face too. As soon as we stand up everything moves downwards—the eyelids fall, the jowls form, the upper lip disappears while the lower lip pouts and even the ears get longer! These facial changes related to gravity become more pronounced as we age.
According to Dr. Elson, no amount of facial exercise or “good genes” can offset the pull of gravity. Dermatologists treat effects of gravity surgically using a surgical procedure to correct the “droopy” look of eyelids, known as blepharoplasty. Surgical procedures are invasive and mostly require extensive downtime.
Photodamage results from longterm exposure to the elements. On fair-skinned individuals, photodamage is characterized by blotchy pigmentation, wrinkling and scaling. Dermatologists improve the appear ance of photodamaged skin via laser resurfacing. Using this technique, heat or laser light pulses rejuvenate the skin’s tone and texture, and minimize fine lines. Depending on the type of laser used (erbium or carbon dioxide), moderate to advanced fine lines and deeper wrinkles are treated with very little downtime. Chemical peels and lasers activate cell’s natural defense mechanism and rejuvenate the skin. The strength of chemical peels can vary from very superficial to deep and their strength determines the degree of benefit to the skin and the needed downtime following this procedure.
Mass and Prestige BrandsTop-selling mass market lines, including Olay and L’Oreal, and some costlier products, such as La Prairie and StriVectin, were examined in a 12- week clinical study by Consumer Reports (January, 2007). The best performers reduced the average depth of wrinkles by less than 10%, a magnitude of change that was barely visible to the naked eye. Premium-priced products didn’t work any better than the drug store brands.
In fact, La Prairie Cellular, the most costly product that was tested ($335 for an ounce) was among the least effective. Both the photo assessments and instrumental measurements found only slight improvements, but every product performed better for some test subjects and failed completely for others. No relationship was found between the types of active ingredients in the products and their overall performance, nor did the presence or absence of UV protection have any effect, but all products were effective moisturizers.
79 A LOT OF NEW WRINKLES IN THE ANTI-AGING SEGMENT
According to Consumer Reports, there was no correlation at all between price and effectiveness. Regenerist (P&G) was a top performer and was also the cheapest product tested. If price is no issue then Lancôme’s Re’nergie performed nearly as well as Regenerist. All brands were tested for anti-wrinkle, moisturizing and tolerance attributes. Here are the results:
Slightly more effective were Olay Regenerist, Lancôme Paris Renergie and RoC Retin-Ox. Average performers were Neutrogena Visibly Firm night cream with active copper, Avon Anew Alternative Intensive age treatment, L’Oreal Paris’ Dermo-Expertise Wrinkle Smoother and StriVectin-SD Intensive Concentrate for existing stretch marks. Slightly less effective were La Prairie Cellular and RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle. Consumer Reports tested nine antiwrinkle brands with prices ranging from $18.99 to $335.
Dermatologists have weighed in on some leading skin care ingredients. For example, according to Dr. Nick Lowe, author of Away with Wrinkles, a cream designed to tighten stretch marks (Strivectin) is not going to be very good at relaxing muscles that cause wrinkles. According to Rajiv Grover, a plastic surgeon at King Edward VII Hospital in the UK, Botox works at a deep level by temporarily freezing the action of muscles that are the cause of overlying wrinkles by reducing the signals from nerve to muscle. A cream cannot penetrate anywhere near as deeply as that. It is very difficult indeed to make a cream that will penetrate the top layer of skin. It is certainly unrealistic to imagine that any cream could have the same effect as Botox.
There is similar skepticism about Créme de la Mer’s claims that it contains water molecules that have been divided, dramatically enhancing the action of various ingredients within the “miracle broth.” It is absolute nonsense. There is not a scrap of evidence to show that Creme de la Mer is anything more than a very nice moisturizer, says Dr. Lowe. He recommends Vaseline Intensive Care as an excellent example of a moisturizer that contains a multiple vitamin complex just like that hyped in some of the very expensive creams.
ConclusionsSkin care technology is growing by leaps and bounds. Anti-aging products are incorporating more high tech ingredients, because mere moisturizers and exfoliating agents are no longer enough to keep skin looking young. Everyone’s skin is different and they often respond differently to ingredients such as antioxidants, collagen stimulators, peptides and vitamins. Efficacy is in demand, which puts pressure on the cosmetic industry to appeal to today’s educated consumer who often knows the difference between AHA and Retin-A. Still, the cosmetic industry should advise consumers not to expect overnight improvement.
Consumers should read beyond bold promises and examine labels to see whether the products contain any ingredients that are scientifically proven to help skin look and feel younger. Health and medical breakthroughs are always widely reported in leading newspapers and magazines where consumers could easily acquire information on these new ingredients and other discoveries. But no matter what consumers put on their faces, the best way to fight wrinkles and premature aging is to limit DNA damage, control collagenase and elastaseand GAG-degrading enzymes.La Paririe Cellular was the least effective treatment according to Consumer Reports.
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REVIEWING RECENT ANTI-AGING DEVELOPMENTS
Driven by an aging population seeking to maintain the appearance of youth, US demand for cosmeceuticals is expected to reach $8.5 billion by 2015, according to The Freedonia Group, Inc. To keep pace with this high demand,
personal care product companies are introducing new anti-aging products as their suppliers launch new raw materials that target various aging markers of skin. This column reviews some of the recent anti-aging developments.
Exotic Ingredients: In recent years this category has seen a variety of launches based on snail slime, frog skin and snake venom. They have all made their mark. Now the new ingredient is bee venom. A New Zealand-based Manuka doctor has launched a range of anti-aging, moisturizing skin care products under the name of Apitherapy, based on purified bee venom (PBV).1 Products are said to boost cell regeneration and collagen production according to the company.
Electricity: The principles of electricity are beginning to be used in cosmeceuticals to create “bioelectricity” which alter the cellular activity of the
Inner city pollution can wreak havoc on skin.
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skin, according to Patricia K. Farris, MD, FAAD, clinical assistant professor, Tulane University, New Orleans. A cream with a metal in it is placed on the skin, followed by another cream containing another metal. These metals have opposite charges that act like a battery—similar to electric stimulation techniques to reduce muscle or nerve pain. According to Dr. Farris, this is an exciting area of research and more studies on these electricity-based cosmeceuticals will help researchers further understand their capabilities and the duration of aesthetic improvement that can be expected.
Stratum Corneum: New research was carried out on the topmost layer of skin at the molecular level in Sweden. Results have revealed the secrets of skin’s perviousness, which may significantly increase the number of drugs administered via the skin The study has created new possibilities for large scale drug delivery via the skin and also opens the door for greater understanding of skin diseases. This, we hope, will lead to new and improved treatments.2
Anti-Cancer Drug: Fluorouracil could improve wrinkles and age spots by a mechanism similar to laser resurfacing according to a study by American researchers. They found that appearance of fine and coarse wrinkles, age spots improved from baseline level. At the end of the study, all of the patients reported improvement in their skin texture. It is thought Fluorouracil’s effect is the result of its potential to damage the skin and then illicit a wound-healing response.3
Gluten-Free Cosmetics: Gluten-free cosmetics have recently entered the marketplace. Basically gluten is not absorbed through the skin. If you are allergic to gluten due to Celiac Disease, should you use regular moisturizer, shampoo, serum, night cream? Yes, of course, said Sheila Crowe MD a gastroenterologist and professor of medicine at the University of California in San Diego, “There is absolutely no evidence that using a topical product that contains gluten will cause a problem with the exception that during lipstick use, you could ingest some gluten.”
Pollution: Even in the absence of UV rays, environmental toxins cause pigment cells to proliferate, according to research conducted by Dr. Andrea Vierkotter of
Basal cell carcinoma being treated with 5% fluorouracil.
82 REVIEWING RECENT ANTI-AGING DEVELOPMENTS
Heinrich Heine University, University of Dusseldorf. At the same university, another professor of dermatology, Dr. Krutmann, similarly found that traffic soot activates the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) expressed on keratinocytes and melanocytes. This results in an increased metalloproteinase-1 activity, which, in turn, leads to degradation of collagen in the dermal matrix and thereby to formation of wrinkles. This AhR activation also stimulates melanocyte proliferation that could explain the increased formation of pigmented spots (J. Invest. Derm. 2011:131:203-10). A raw material company that could develop a raw material with AhR antagonist potential and be suitable for topical use, could become very useful in proactively addressing skin aging due to pollution.
Sirtuins: Scientists have challenged anti-aging effects of sirtuins. EUfunded scientists insist they have debunked assumptions that by promoting production of the protein sirtuin, anti-aging creams can keep skin looking young, fresh and wrinkle-free. Personal care product companies have claimed that sirtuin is activated by the plant-based drug resveratrol. But its effect has been disputed by research funded from the EU’s Proteomage and lifespan projects. Scientists examined the nematode worm, because previous tests had shown longer lived specimens had higher levels of sirtuin. But this time, they took into account all other potential differences between the worms and found that those with an artificially raised production of sirtuin lived no longer than control standard worms. The University of London’s Dr. David Gems told a European Commission briefi ng note: “Sirtuins, far from being a key to longevity, appear to have nothing to do with extending life.” He added that this was good news, because researchers could now look for a real way to control aging.4
Telomeres: The tips of 46 chromosomes are thread-like bodies in the nucleus of cells that carry our genes. As cells replicate, the telomeres, like the plastic coating on the ends of shoelaces, wear down. The enzyme telomerase is a savior and provides dabs of DNA, otherwise the cells would stop replicating and die. But this enzyme production slows with aging, telomeres shorten, genetic material is damaged and cellular aging occurs. Telometrics Corporation5 recommends that consumers drink one $600 vial of its Vital-25 Anti-aging Formula, dietary supplement twice a year for a “full-body reset” at the cellular level. Within days of initial ingestion, patches of dry skin, sundamaged skin and large pores begin to diminish. It is said that the supplement is a mixture of glandular enzymes and peptide extracts.
These and other anti-aging technologies give cosmetic companies, both small and large, a competitive advantage and enable them to differentiate their products in a meaningful way. These also help consumers, because they are seeking cosmetic products that solve specifi c problem areas such as puffy eyes, rosacea, stretch marks and cellulite.
References:1. Euromonitor International Article 09 Jan. 2012.2. P. Gillette, Modern Medicine , May 2, 2012 , J. In. Derm.3. K.Bird, 16 June 2009, Archives of Dermatology4. World News SPC November 2011 5. R. Nelson, R. Sheet 9/12/2011
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Chapter 25
NEW IDEAS IN SKIN CARE
HOPE IN A JAR just won’t cut it with consumers these days. The majority of women, and even men, read up on the latest new ingredients in cosmetics, seek professional advice from their dermatologists and are aware of how
diet and exercise can impact the health of their skin. A few ambitious souls even scour the internet in search of the latest research information. This greater awareness has led to an improvement in their overall health and well-being.
There are no miracle cures to get rid of wrinkles, of course, but thanks to in-depth research conducted by cosmetic scientists, aesthesticians and research dermatologists, many nonsurgical or non-injectable topical products have recently been launched which claim a great breakthrough in arresting or delaying the aging process.
Here’s a quick look at some of the unique products and procedures available to age-conscious consumers.
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This article briefly discusses three such new products and two cosmetic procedures that are administered by a dermatologist or a health professional.
Novel ProductsPrevage, an antioxidant cream that helps prevent wrinkles and repairs skin damage from the sun, smoking and air pollution, has been launched by Allergan, the maker of popular anti-wrinkle drug Botox. According to dermatologist Dr. Heather Roberts, Botox and Prevage are complementary. Ideally, Prevage is applied in conjunction with Botox rather than an either/or skin care program. Prevage is designed to be used as part of a longer-term, daily regimen. The active ingredient in Prevage is idebenone, an antioxidant that, according to Allergan, is more effective than other antioxidants because its low molecular weight allows greater skin penetration. There are some findings that indicate that regular use of skin care products containing antioxidants might be beneficial in fighting damage from oxidation. Free radicals are the main factor associated with the aging process. Antioxidants react with free radicals and provide protection from the harmful environmental effects.
In a six-week clinical study, 21 women between the ages of 18 and 65 with moderate photoaging applied Prevage antioxidant cream that contained a 1% concentration of idebenone. The women in the study applied Prevage twice a day to the facial area. Study results included:
• 29% reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles;• 26% reduction in skin roughness or dryness;• 37% increase in skin hydration and• 33% overall improvement in skin appearance.
Janson-Beckett has introduced AlphaDermaCE, an injection-free face and body treatment for the immediate reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Active ingredients include acetyl hexapeptide, the trade name Argireline (which helps relax facial muscle contractions to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles), alpha lipoic acid (a powerful antioxidant which helps repair the condition of aging skin while preventing future damage) and freeze-dried elastin concentrate (which provides stretch mark relief and collagen help fill fine lines and wrinkles).
Hydroderm contains a patented Collagen Infusion Delivery system. It is a liquid based solution that allows collagen and proteins to be transferred directly below the epidermis without injection or the need for a doctor’s prescription. In double blind clinical studies, the subjects experienced up to 64% wrinkle reduction in three months using Hydroderm, according to Don Ressler, vice president of Alena, Hydroderm’s parent company.
Novel ProceduresUltrasonic Skin Rejuvenation is a non-surgical procedure used to repair skin imperfections such as fine wrinkles, discolorations and minor scarring. It is the same form of ultrasound used to view fetuses and clear clogged arteries.
The procedure is very simple, according to Dr. Michael Columbus, a physician with a plastic surgeon group based in Fairfax, VA. A technician spreads a gel containing amino acids, antioxidants and skin lightener on the skin area to be treated. An ultrasonic sound instrument is passed over the gel. The heat generated by the wand helps the gel penetrate the deepest layers of the skin and lets the ingredients work more intensively than if they were applied only on the surface of the skin. The heat also stimulates collagen growth, which helps skin look firmer and tighter. The procedure is painless and no healing time is required. It is an excellent choice for consumers with sensitive skin who may not be able to tolerate chemical peels.
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Ultrasonic skin rejuvenation is the latest trend in non-surgical cosmetic procedures and produces results that are comparable to a light chemical peel. However, Dr. Jennifer Butterfield, a plastic surgeon at the University of Cincinnati, noted that larger, long-term studies are necessary in order to get a better understanding of how well the procedure works and how long it lasts.
The Gentle Waves procedure basically involves exposing skin to a series of flashing lights for a predetermined time. Such treatments cumulatively produce superior results. This Food and Drug Administration-approved device is for non-surgical treatment of eye area wrinkles, the first such clearance for a LED device. The device consists of more than 2,000 LED lights on two adjustable panels that can be used anywhere on the body.The device stimulates collagen growth, which makes the skin smoother and more youthful. It also discourages growth of collagenase which gradually destroys collagen. One treatment lasts 35 seconds and costs about $100. Experts recommend eight treatments.
According to Rick Krupnick of Light Bioscience, marketer of Gentle Wave, the company is studying other uses for the technology, including wound healing, acne treatment, cellulite elimination and hair rejuvenation. Some plastic surgeons already use the device to speed healing after surgical procedures.
Dr. David Vasily, a dermatologist with the Aesthetica Cosmetic and Laser Center in Bethlehem, PA, insists that the Gentle Waves treatment gives patients beautiful creamy skin and represents the biggest breakthrough in the skin rejuvenation process. Similar views are expressed by Dr. David McDaniel of The Laser Skin and Vein Center, Virginia Beach, VA, who characterizes Gentle Waves as a very cost-effective way to stay out of the clutches of cosmetic surgeons for as long as possible.
These products are designed to provide anti-wrinkle benefits that consumers can get without going under a surgeon’s knife. The cosmetic procedures described in this article are intended to generate new and innovative thinking in the cosmetic R&D laboratories around the world.
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Chapter 26
THE MICROBIOME’S IMPACT ON SKIN CARE FORMULATIONS
The Microbiome’s Impact On Skin Care FormulationsInterest in human skin microflora is a relatively new research topic in the beauty care market, reflecting the growing demand for “healthy beauty.”
Ongoing research continues to peel away layers of the skin microbiome to reveal its protective properties. It appears that there are many benefits from optimizing bacteria on the skin’s surface. This column will briefly review the fastgrowing microbiome trend and its implications for our markets.
Some studies suggest we inherit most of our microflora from our mothers during childbirth. It performs a central biological function; that is, to aid good bacteria in warding off the pathogenic bad ones. In the past, microbes have been thought of as something that should be removed from the skin but, this view is beginning to change. Today, understanding the role of bacteria is the goal of some of the most critical research in the world. The microbiome has been tied to a range of maladies including obesity, autism, anxiety, Parkinson’s disease, cardiovascular diseases and rheumatoid arthritis. Yet many consumers remain convinced that bacteria are “bad.”
Terms to KnowNow, product launches have piqued their curiosity. The skin also has its own unique ecosystem of microbiota which changes throughout a person’s lifetime according to their age, diet, environment and lifestyle. The gut and skin play a balancing act between beneficial, neutral and harmful flora that are interrelated with the innate and adaptive immune system. According to Leslie Baumann MD, it is known that a balanced gut microbiome contributes to overall wellness, including skin health, but does the skin’s own unique ecosystem also has an impact on its appearance and feel? Scientists, dermatologists and beauty brand executives have given the matter serious consideration in recent months; and consumers are more aware of the microbiome. As a result, skin microbiome research is changing the way we think about skin care. Baumann defined these terms in Dermatology News (Nov. 13, 2018):
• Microbiome: microbes that live in a particular environment or biome.• Microbiota: The collection of living microbes that live in or, on an environment.• Prebiotics: A non-digestible food ingredient that promotes the growth of
microorganisms in the intestines. This can promote the growth of beneficial
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or harmful microorganisms. Think of them as a type of fertilizer for the microbiome.
• Probiotics: Living microorganisms that can provide beneficial qualities when used orally or topically.
The skin is subject to a variety of assaults, including sun radiation, urban pollution, weather and chemicals in the environment. According to Whitney Bowe MD, medical director, Integrative Dermatology, New York, NY, a healthy microbiome influences the risk for skin diseases such as acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and premature aging. Working with the immune system, microbes have the added task of helping to regulate proper functioning of the skin barrier. If impaired, the barrier is less likely to trap moisture and more likely to let in allergens and irritants leading to chronic inflammation.
Healthy skin has a diverse array of bacteria. Several beneficial bacteria strains can help reduce flare-ups of chronic skin concerns and protect against premature skin aging. With an uptick in environmental toxins and ultraviolet rays, not to mention high stress levels and overprocessed diets, the microbiome may be getting damaged in ways that are unprecedented in the course of evolution. *Lactobacillus paracasci, which inhibits skin inflammation and *Streptococcus salivarius, which inhibits the overgrowth of *P. acnes, can help to reduce flareups in patients with acne and rosacea, according to Bowe.
Microbiome and Skin HealthCertain bacteria provide relief for skin concerns that involve poor barrier function. According to Mary Margaret Kober MD, Naples, FL, bacterial strains S. thermophilus, S. hominis and S. epidermidis, are all beneficial for patients who struggle with eczema and sensitive skin. The key characteristic of aging skin is that skin’s pH increases and this can allow the enzymes that break down collagen and elastin and lead to the visible signs of aging. According to Kober, we lose our ability to fight oxidation as we get older because we have a low number of antioxidants in our skin. Several beneficial strains have free radical scavenging properties, so they can help fight skin aging that way.
Anti-aging strains found on the skin include *B. Coagulans, *L. plantarum, *L. paracase and *BIfidobacterium Breve. According to Bowe, these are all probiotics that have been shown to have either free radical scavenging properties or they boost ceramide production in the skin, helping to reduce the depth and number of wrinkles in the skin and protect against UV rays. Probiotics have become so popular that they are being marketed in food, supplements and even beauty products. They are not regulated as drugs by the US Food and Drug Administration; rather, they fall under the Dietary Supplement Health & Education Act (DSHEA) are regulated less tightly than drugs. They don’t need to be proved effective to be marketed, and the quality can be lax. Dr. Rob Knight, University of California, San Diego, has embarked on to isolate microbes, examples in hunter-gatherer populations in Tanzania and South America’s rain forest. By exploring which of these microbes are good or bad for skin health, Dr. Knight hopes to determine what should be done to stave off irritation and even the physical signs of aging.
Bowe and Kober have proposed the following: Even if you are not ready to get on board the bacteria bandwagon yet, you should at least throw away your hand sanitizers, harsh soaps, body puffs and brushes, anything that could physically disrupt the microbiome. Avoid overexfoliation and extended hot shower, they can damage the skin barrier and damage your skin microbiome. To keep skin’s microbial community healthy and varied, choose a gentle, pH balanced soap-free cleanser that leaves skin hydrated not taut.
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Bowe and Kober recommend using only one type of exfoliator: a physical scrub, or chemical exfoliant and limiting its use to once or twice a week. Also many bacteria require moisture or water to grow and thrive on the skin, so applying anything that is going to trap moisture is the key. It is preferable to use moisturizing products that contain ceramides. They help maintain the skin barrier and hydration and this protects the skin microbiome. Moisturize frequently in the winter months and wear sunscreen. UV light can cause damage and change the skin’s composition.
Dietary habits can also affect skin health. Refined carbohydrates, devoid of fiber, can encourage the growth of very unhealthy bacteria in the gut, triggering system-wide inflammation, which manifests in the skin. Healthy diets should include low glycemic index whole or unprocessed foods, such as multigrain breads, quinoa, sweet potatoes, barley, whole grain and vegetables. Unfortunately, many diets are composed of highly processed or sugary snacks, which cause gut imbalance and enable harmful bacteria to flourish and break down the lining of the intestinal wall. As a consequence, whatever you are genetically predisposed; i.e., acne, brown spots, eczema, may show up on skin. According to Gail Cresci a clinical nutritionist with the Cleveland Clinic, drinking alcohol may strip the mucus lining that protects the gut, making it more vulnerable to leaky gut syndrome. As a result, molecules that are not meant to be in the bloodstream “leak through” the intestinal lining, triggering systemic inflammation, which exacerbates many skin conditions.
The microbiome varies by body site and each person’s microbial signature is unique. Much remains to be learned about the microbiome and Rutgers University researchers have proposed creation of a global microbe vault to collect and preserve beneficial microbes. The key to understanding the proposal is that not all germs are bad. Some bacteria and viruses aid digestion and others regulate immune systems. There are even bacteria that display amphibiosis; i.e., they can be good or bad depending on which other microbes are present or on their human host’s genes, age or environment. Evidence is growing that diminished microbial diversity may trigger or worsen inflammatory bowel diseases such as diabetes, food allergies and autism. A global bank of beneficial bacteria could preserve us, too, one day.
Lift All BoatsSkin care marketers always seek ingredients that promise to protect skin. Obviously, ingredients such as herbs, botanicals and vitamins were far more attractive to consumers than bacteria, but the truth is that the probiotics present an opportunity to reduce the need for many ingredients and also promote skin’s own defense mechanisms.
According to Mintel, microbiome science advances are lifting the entire skin care industry, which is expected to post a global CAGR of 6% between 2016 and 2021. For example, US sales of lactobacillus-based skin care products grew 98% between 2013 and 2017.
Skin care companies are rolling out topical products infused with probiotics or in many cases prebiotics, which are the ingredients that serve as food for the body’s existing good bacteria. Procter & Gamble has applied for patent on a prebiotic composition “to improve the health of skin microbiome.”
L’Oréal has patented the bacteria derived ingredient vitreosdilla ferment intended to balance the microbiome of dry skin. The material can already be found in La Roche Posay’s Lipikar Balm AP+ Intense Repair Moisturizing Cream.
J&J is working with Biomedic to develop a bacterial treatment for therapeutic and cosmetic applications.
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BASF and Givaudan have introduced products to enhance the microbiome and skin health, while Azitra, Greenaltech and Vantage market microbiome-focused ingredients.
Analysis of the skincare market has highlighted four different formulation approaches in microbiome-based beauty. They are:
• Removing bacteria. This approach is well-established and applied in mainstream cleansers and spot treatments that are typically aimed at teenagers and people with acneprone skin.
• Prebiotic: This approach focuses on feeding “good” bacteria. It is typically used in products such as cleansers and fits with a narrative of gentle, natural skin care.
• Probiotic: This approach focuses on adding “good” bacteria (extracts rather than cultures). Consumers are likely to be familiar with probiotics in relation to gut health and live dairy products. Several beauty brands champion this approach and influencers see it as something new and different.
• Postbiotic: This approach involves adding bacteria byproducts. They are usually combined with pre- or probiotic treatments, although a few postbiotics such as hyaluronic acid, are already known in their own right.
On the MarketThe brands currently offering products are generally focused on prebiotic and probiotic solutions. Some take a scientific stance with products designed to address specific concerns and benefits, such as reducing wrinkles. Others place the emphasis on nature, overall skin health, holistic lifestyles and green beauty. From microbiome-friendly cleansers and moisturizers, to microbiome-enhancing probiotic mists and serums, there is plenty of opportunity for innovation and to redefine or reposition established products. Overall they help balance the good bacteria living on and in you.
Algenist’s Alive Prebiotic Moisturizer with SPF 15 is said to balance the skin microbiome while protecting it from sun exposure. The product’s namesake prebiotic is derived from algae, which is combined with a probiotic, zinc oxide and alguronic acid, a regenerative microalgae compound. Together, these ingredients are meant to leave skin hydrated, glowing and smooth, with better-managed surface skin bacteria.
Mother Dirt AO+Mist contains bacteria that can improve skin clarity. Clinique Redness Solutions Cleanser calms irritations and restores moisture using Lactobacillus extract. Payot Crème No.2 Nuage calms stressed complexions with a blend of probiotics, sugar-based prebiotics and botanical extracts. La-Roche-Posay Lipikar Balm AP+ Intense Repair Moisturizing Cream stabilizes skin’s microbiome with prebiotic thermal water and an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis. Fresh Black Tea Kombucha Facial Treatment Essence boosts skin elasticity and fights oxidative damage caused by environmental toxins. Some products, such as Tula Multi Spectrum Overnight Skin Rescue treatment, Dior Loife Oil-to-milk make up removing cleanser, and Kristina Holey + Marie Veronique Barrier Restore are the latest wave of products that feed the skin’s microflora to support proper barrier function.
Early Distant WarningIn recent research news, Australian researchers have developed an innovative ingestible sensor technology that can measure and track the gut microbiome, enabling previously impossible insight into the digestive system. The sensor is in pill form and operates on stomach acid to detect, calculate and transmit critical data. Most importantly, this sensor identifies gut bacteria to help doctors get a better sense
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of a patient’s immune response. The sensor can even detect and decipher early DNA mutations before the patient exhibits symptoms.
The microbiome has entered the consumer consciousness and researchers have realized its health-boosting potential, but it still remains uncharted territory. The scientific community and skin care brands are currently leading the conversation in defining microbiome, why is it relevant to specific skin care concerns and which products work and why. But we still need to understand about the conditions in which microbes are either beneficial or harmful to the skin, what triggers their imbalance on the skin flora and how to rebalance them.
At the present time, the practice of adding topical probiotics to beauty ritual is experimental. There is no great evidence that tells us which bacteria would be beneficial. It is hoped that in the future, skin care companies will start to target each person’s unique microbiome by tracking ingredients that match specific needs. Conversely, there could be more research to determine how some of the less usual strains of bacteria in the skin microbiome affect the skin’s appearance.
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Chapter 27
UNDERSTANDING THE CONSUMER’S QUEST FOR IMMORTALITY
Most of us have an aversion to death with good reasons: It often hurts and it’s final! Few among us want to face their own mortality. But when you’re young, smart and have billions in the bank, you may be determined to do
something about it. Young, deep-pocketed titans of industry from Silicon Valley are grasping on to some far-out strategies in an effort cheat death. For many of these digital entrepreneurs, not being around for their super shining future, is simply unacceptable. Over the past century, medical science has made tremendous strides in increasing the lifespan of most humans.
Juan Carlos Izpisua Belmonte, who led the work at the Salk Institute in La Jolla, California has said his research shows that aging may not have to proceed in one single direction.
“With careful modulation, aging might be reversed,” he insisted.This discovery raises the prospect of a new approach to healthcare in which
aging is treated, rather than the various diseases associated with it. Gerontologists don’t suggest that aging can be eliminated; rather, they say that in the foreseeable future, treatments will be designed to slow the aging process, thereby significantly increasing life expectancy. This column will briefly explore some of the extreme anti-aging approaches that are taken by billionaires in their quest to increase their lifespan.
The senior population (65+) is expected to more than double from 35 million to 72 million from 2000 to 2030, according to BASF estimates. If so, seniors will represent representing nearly 20% of the total US population, according to BASF Manager John Gohbauer.*1 According to NPD Group, anti-aging continues to be a key motivator for purchases among women skin care users from most age groups. There are products available that can help our cells trigger youthful gene expression, provide DNA protection and enhance cellular function.
Far-Out StrategiesUntil now, aging solutions have hinged on traditional concepts such as diet, exercise and, of course, UV protection. But today’s middle-aged billionaires are anything but conventional. Larry Ellison, co-founder of Oracle, has given almost $330 million to research about aging and age-related diseases. All that cash has yielded some interesting ideas that Ellison embraces. With the aid of a microbiologist and his
92 Understanding the Consumer’s Quest for Immortality
personal physician, Ellison is said to pierce his leg with conducting needles and, via a burst of electricity, incorporate DNA of his own design into his tissues. The jolt reportedly encourages his organs to operate better.
Then there’s Alphabet CEO Larry Page who has launched Calico Company, which researches ways to improve human lifespan. Peter Thiel, co-founder of PayPal has given $7 million to the Methuselab Foundation, a non-profit, focused on life-extending therapies Thiel reportedly takes human growth hormone, follows a paleo diet, does not eat sugar and drinks red wine. It’s all part of his strategy to reach 120 years of age. Not to be outdone, Dave Asprey, CEO of Bullet-Proof Supplement Company, says that his goal is to live beyond 180 years. He spends three minutes weekly in a $50,000 tank of air chilled to minus 270°F, which he says increases the density of his mitochondria. He also does cardio with his body strapped in plastic sleeves filled with ice-water in a machine called Vaspar and breathes 100% oxygen.*2 And to warm up after such an intense cool-down, he sits in an infra-red sauna and plays pingpong against a robot.
More IdeasBut billionaires aren’t the only ones with far-out ideas of maintaining youth. We know that younger people have far lower levels of harmful proteins in their blood than younger people. These proteins build up with age and may cause decreased production of brain cells and inflammation. Some have suggested that transfusions of young blood into older bodies may be beneficial to longer life, but in vivo tests on lab rats have proven inconclusive. Still, San Francisco based Ambrosia Company specializes in infusing blood, specially “young” blood into its customers.
Scientists and business people are experimenting with the idea that few supplements taken in right dosage may be antidote to aging. Nootrobox, for example, sells supplements that promise to enhance brain function. One pill, called Rise, reportedly enhances memory and stamina. “Sprint” pills promise to provide an immediate boost to clarity and energy. Kado-3 pills provide protection to brain and body. Nootrobox’s product claims may seem a bit much, but the company has attracted private investors like former Yahoo CEO Marissa Mayer and the Venture Capitalist Andreessen Horowitz. However, some scientists question the supplement approach altogether. Many doctors are skeptical that these supplements make a difference in health. There is probably a lot of placebo effect according to Kimberly Urban, a post-doctoral research fellow at the Children’s Hospital in Philadelphia who has studied the effect of Nootropics on the brain. The notion that these Nootropics make people sharper is largely unproven.
Many doctors are skeptical that these supplements make a difference in health. Instead, they credit any improvement to a placebo effect, according to Kimberly Urban, a post-doctoral research fellow at the Children’s Hospital in Philadelphia who has studied the effect of Nootropics on the brain.
Traditional Pharma SolutionsWithin the ethical drug space, Rapamycin, an immuno-supressant, has shown incredible promise. In vivo studies found it increases the lifespan of mice by 25% and increases their “youthfulness” as well. In these studies, researchers found that older mice that received Rapamycin had the heart function of younger mice. But don’t get too excited; unfortunately, the drug had no such effects in humans.
The FDA has recently approved a gene-altering leukemia treatment, developed by the pharmaceutical giant Novartis. Dr. Nir Barzilai of Albert Einstein College of Medicine studies drugs for aging. Genetic rejuvenation is pursued by BioViva,
93 Understanding the Consumer’s Quest for Immortality
a biotech company, that is developing targeted treatments for aging-related degeneration candidates such as Alzheimer’s Disease as well as cosmetic procedures like skin rejuvenation. One day, we may be able to permanently delete the negative signs of aging from our DNA, say scientists. These are all huge accomplishments in terms of science, says Laura Cartensen, director of the Center of Longevity at Stanford University.
For $25,000, Health Nucleus Company carries out a head-to-toe physical exam, which involves whole genome sequencing and scanning for early diagnostics. Company Founder J. Craig Venter was the first to sequence the human genome. At that price, full-body MRI and an array of blood tests are also conducted, and any health problems are flagged for further attention. The method has detected cancer, aneurysms and heart disease in asymptomatic people. However, Eric Topol, director of Scripps Translational Science Institute and an expert in data-driven medicine, says that such examinations will only lead to more tests and procedures, which may be unnecessary. All of these tests are very expensive and it is questionable whether they will add years to one’s life.Experts believe that exciting new innovations in longevity may one day redefine the way we age while helping us look better as we get older. Silicon Valley-types are pushing for a life that lasts at least a couple of decades longer. As for the rest of us without deep pockets? The vast majority of people want to live a good, healthy long life, free from the maladies that come with age; i.e. arthritis, heart disease, kidney failure, and loss of eyesight and hearing.To truly address the development of effective anti-aging and age-reversal treatments requires a foundation built on molecular biology and genomic science.
References:1. Health and Amazing aging, Nutrition Industry Executive, May 2015.2. Time, March 2017.
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Chapter 28
ARE NEW FORMS OF MELANIN ON THE HORIZON?
Sales of prestige skin care products with SPF reached $1.4 billion in 2016, growing 7% during the past two years, according to The NPD Group. Even self-tanners have returned to growth after years of declining sales, which is indicative of the
widespread concern consumers have about UV exposure. As a result, more people are opting for a UV-free alternative for a summer glow.
In this column, we will briefly review the latest research on how nano engineers have developed melanin-imitating nanoparticles that protect skin cells from within, and the ongoing research into melanin’s transport, distribution and capabilities in human keratinocytes.
Natural and SyntheticMelanin is a powerful antioxidant and a natural substance found in humans. It is a complex polymer derived from the amino acid tyrosine, and it influences skin color. Lack of tyrosine can lead to vitiligo and albinism. Tyrosine is only found in specialized cells called melanocytes, inside of which are tiny granules of melanin pigment contained in vesicles called melanosomes.
These melanosomes leave the melanocytes and migrate into other cells in the epidermis around the cell’s nuclei. People with more natural melanin have darker skin and those with less melanin have a paler skin tone. Melanin is also responsible for the dark brown and black pigments that we see in hair color.
Melanin is produced naturally, but its production is also stimulated by exposure to the sun. This is the reason why, when we lie in the sun, it triggers more melanin production which causes our skin to become darker. Dark skin that contains more melanin is less likely to be affected by the sun’s dangerous UVA and UVB rays, which are known to cause skin cancer. Boosting melanin content in skin may reduce the effects of early skin damage and reduce the signs of aging. Darker skin is more resistant to the damaging and burning rays of the sun that can cause wrinkles and other skin problems that come with aging.
An enormous range of melanin particles are produced in nature too, such as pigmented bird feathers. Extracting melanin from nature is a complicated task compared to synthesizing melanin in the lab. Researchers hypothesize that synthetic melanin-like nanoparticles would mimic naturally-occurring melanosomes and also be taken up by keratinocytes, the predominant cell type that is found in the
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epidermis. They were also prompted to search for novel synthetic routes for preparing melanin-like materials because melanin-related diseases are widespread and there is a growing interest in the performance of various polymeric materials related to melanin.
Sun Care ApplicationsResearchers at the University of California, San Diego have created a sunscreen that both mimics and enhances the skin’s natural protective abilities. Scientists discovered that biocompatible melanin-like nanoparticles can be synthesized through the oxidation of dopamine. This technology allows for the controlled production of synthetic melanin, which mimics the behavior of melanin found in bird feathers. They bathed dopamine, a signaling chemical found in the brain and other parts of the body, in an alkaline solution. This resulted in melanin-like nanoparticles with shells and cones made of polydopamine, a dopamine-based polymer.
When incubated in a petri dish with human keratinocytes, these synthetic particles were absorbed by the skin cells and distributed around their nuclei-like natural melanin. According to Professor Nathan Gianneschi, like melanin, the synthetic material functions as a pigment to darken skin. But the synthetic material doesn’t just fill the cells and make them darker, it actually structures them. The researchers incubated skin cells with nanoparticles and then exposed them to UV radiation for three days. Fifty percent of the skin cells that absorbed the nanoparticles survived compared with just 10% of those without nanoparticles.1
In a cell culture study, synthetic melanin was taken up by human skin cells. They were distributed normally by the keratinocytes in the epidermis, but they also protected human skin cells from UV radiation damage. These nanoparticles are comparable to the naturally-occurring particles in skin and could have many practical applications including a more effective topical sunscreen. Although the synthetic nanoparticle melanin can be formulated into a cream, more research is needed, according to the lead researcher. The challenge now is to translate this into fully intact tissues to see if it is possible to adapt it to a topical formulation.
If the synthetic melanin nanoparticles created in this study were produced in a topical solution, it could mean a much more effective sunscreen.
ConclusionThis discovery, if proven safe and effective, potentially could have practical applications for the treatment of melanin-deficient disorders such as vitiligo and albinism and even act a natural sunscreen. In both cases, patients are at a higher risk of developing skin cancer. In laboratory tests using tissue culture, researchers showed the nanoparticles are absorbed and distributed throughout keratinocytes just like natural melanin. The nanoparticles also protected skin cells from DNA damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.
References:1. Scientific American, January 2017.
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Chapter 29
HEALTH BENEFITS OF MITOQ ANTIOXIDANT TECHNOLOGY
Many health conscious consumers understand the value of antioxidant supplements and topicals. Allied Market Research has estimated the global antioxidants market generated $2.92 billion in 2015 and predicted it would reach $4.53 billion by 2022, registering a CAGR of 6.42% during the forecast period (Nutraceuticals World, March 2017). The scientists at the University of Otago in New Zealand, were looking to correct levels of oxidative stress in cells and the energy imbalances that occur in these conditions. After a decade of research and $50 million in costs, what they found is briefly discussed in this column.
Scientists have discovered a way to support mitochondria, which in turn, has beneficial effects across the whole cell and also slowing down the processes normally associated with aging. This exciting new advance in antioxidant technology, MitoQ (mitoquinol mesylate), is scientifically proven to be hundreds of times more effective than other coenzyme Q10 supplements. It actually gets inside the cell to deliver antioxidant support directly to where it is needed. It helps to reduce the cellular free radical damage that over time contributes to many of the symptoms of aging and various health disorders.
National Institute of Aging (NIA), funded by the US government, normally selects for testing each year a very small number of promising compounds with exceptional potential to reverse the aging process. MitoQ has made the list for this year because it is a powerful antioxidant that re-energizes body, cell by cell, in a unique way that was not possible before this discovery, which was published in more than 200 articles. As a result, MitoQ has garnered the attention of leading scientists and researchers from around the world.
MitochondriaThe mitochondria are primarily the batteries of the cells. If the batteries fail, the cell ultimately dies, or in some situations, the cell might begin to replicate out of control and become cancerous. Every cell in our body, with the exception of red blood cells, contains mitochondria, which create the energy to keep the cell alive. If these mitochondria do not function properly, we can get very sick and, eventually die. Healthy mitochondria are critical for the health of all our cells. They can become damaged or dysfunctional, when the energy they create is less than the free radicals they produce, and they are unable to repair themselves or increase their numbers in their host cell.
97 Health Benefits of MitoQ Antioxidant Technology
Specific medications such as acetaminophen, statins, glyphosate (found in RoundUp weed killer) and heavy metals such as lead, mercury and aluminum can be toxic to mitochondria.*1 When everything is working optimally, the mitochondria are healthy and are functioning at the top of their game. Problems develop when the mitochondria are compromised. MitoQ antioxidant, protects mitochondria (our cellular batteries), the organelles inside our cells that power our energy. As we age, both mitochondria and antioxidant supplies start to decline, we cannot fight the damage to our skin and body from free radicals like we used to when we were younger. MitoQ is a new type of antioxidant that protects mitochondria.
MitoQ Scientists have found a way to deliver an antioxidant right to the mitochondria inside your cells, where almost 95% of body’s free radicals are generated. These free radicals gradually damage the health of internal organs as well as skin as one ages. Skin begins to look dull, losing its youthful glow. It is clearly obvious that maintaining healthy mitochondria is the key to staying healthier and younger longer. MitoQ uses electrostatic approach, which alters the molecule in such a way that it carries a positive charge, which is the key to its claims of greater uptake. This changing of the electrostatic charge revitalizes the mitochondria, allowing it to repair the cell and allow it to get on with what it did when it was younger. No other product to date has been able to achieve this.
BenefitsThere are many theories of aging being constantly debated worldwide. One prominent theory holds that there is a natural decline in antioxidants and increased oxidation markers that occur with age take toll on our metabolic processes and organs particularly, the brain, heart and liver.As a by-product, the free radicals are produced, which are kept in check by our body’s own supply of antioxidants such as coenzyme Q 10. As we know, the popularity of coenzyme Q10, particularly in supplements, has been recently boosted by the rise in the prescription of statin drugs which deplete the body’s natural stores of coenzyme Q10. The problem with this ingredient has always been surrounding its bio-availability. The base molecule called ubiquinone, is poorly absorbed, leading to a need for higher dosages. In order to get around this, some suppliers offer coenzyme Q10 in the ubiquinol form, the reduced form as it appears in the body, and claim higher bioavailability for the ingredient. As our levels of coenzyme Q10 are depleted with age, the body is less able to produce collagen and elastin, leading to wrinkled, sallow, less supple and firm skin.
A boost of coenzyme Q10 increases the production of both collagen and elastin, as well as it stimulates cell activity in general. Healthy skin cells can rid themselves of toxins and make the best use of nutrients, resulting in healthier skin which shows on the outside. If Coenzyme Q10 can penetrate the cell’s mitochondria, it can be truly powerful in combating skin aging. Scientists and dermatologists have recommended skin care formulations to contain a minimum of 0.5% coenzyme Q10. MitoQ is a new patented molecule that has been clinically proven to get coenzyme Q10 to cells. Furthermore, by providing a high level antioxidant protection, cells start to function optimally leading to an overall anti-aging effects. The MitoQ Company offers both oral supplements and topical skincare range of products using MitoQ technology according to CEO Greg McPherson.
RemarksMitoQ is an exciting advance in antioxidant technology because it attaches a positive charge to the antioxidant part of coenzyme Q1O (the mitochondria’s own
98 Health Benefits of MitoQ Antioxidant Technology
natural antioxidant). Over 90% of our cells energy comes from the mitochondria. Diminishing of coenzyme Q10 in the cell is one of the most reliable biomarkers of ageing. Clinical studies show that it selectively targets and protects mitochondria, to help reduce oxidative stress and support energy. Unique delivery system of MitoQ allows it to be both a nutraceutical and also a cosmeceutical, since it supports cell function inside, via consuming a nutraceutical supplement and outside, by being an “active” of a skin care product. •
References:1. Dr. A Danenberg, W. B. Journal vol. 27, Nov. 4, 2017
COSMECEUTICALS
Chapter 30
EXPLORING THE VERSATILITY OF FRENCH MARITIME PINE BARK
THE GROWTH of the natural personal care market has been dramatic. Demand continues to boom, as consumers become interested in green chemistry. According to Euromonitor, within the facial skin care market, the nourishing/anti-aging
category was the fastest growing section, with a 67% gain from 2002-2007 to $14.9 billion. The benefits of plant extracts continue to weave their way into our every day health routines as we each look to natural means to enhance our feeling of well being.
This column will briefly examine French maritime pine bark extract, a botanical antioxidant known for its health and nutritional benefits. The material is already formulated into several commercial skin care products and is available from Horphag Research and other companies. French maritime pine bark extract is a natural plant extract derived from the bark of the maritime pine that grows along the coast of southwest France. It contains a unique combination of phenolic compounds such as catechins, procyanidins, bio-flavonoids and organic acids, which offer extensive natural health benefits and are potent free radical scavengers. These compounds are also found in grape seeds, green tea, blueberry, red wine, blackberry, black cherry, grape skin and red cabbage.1
French Maritime Pine Bark is finding its way into more anti-aging skin care products.
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Antioxidant: French maritime pine bark extract does more than neutralize free radicals; it also has anti-inflammatory effects. Free radical reactions result in a loss of active cells. Since they are involved in the aging process, and French maritime pine bark extract destroys them, it has an aging-retarding effect. As an anti-inflammatory, the ingredient helps the skin fight stress and generally keeps it from “acting up” in the wrong ways. It increases defensive cell activity, helps maintain a healthier structure and look to the skin, and fights a host of challenges linked to inflammation such as under-eye puffiness, blemishes and rosacea.
De-pigmenting: French maritime pine bark extract inhibits melanogenesis and lowers skin pigmentation intensity so that skin is more evenly toned. Melasma (chloasma) is over-pigmentation of the skin that affects sun-exposed areas of the skin such as the face. This phenomenon often affects young mothers or women taking contraceptive hormones. Sometimes oxidative stress is involved in the excessive production of skin pigments. Dr. Ni Zhigang at the Chinese Academy of Traditional Chinese Medicine found 30 days of treatment with 75 milligrams of French maritime pine bark extract daily to be very effective and safe. In the study, 80% of patients responded very favorably, with the area and the intensity of hyper-pigmentation greatly reduced.
Anti-inflammatory: Inflammation in the body could be a result of allergies, asthma, arthritis, stress or wound infections. The anti-inflammatory potency of French maritime pine bark extract is due to its ability to inhibit the transcription factor NF-KB, which dictates the pro-inflammatory process in immune cells. The extract also improves microcirculation of the skin’s tiny capillaries. This activity helps supply more oxygen, nutrients and moisture to the skin resulting in a healthier look and vibrant glow.
Sun Protection: Sunburn is an inflammation caused by the free radicals that are produced by the effect of sunlight on skin. In clinical studies, Dr. Peter Rohdewald of the University of Munster, Germany marked different areas of the forearm and applied different strengths of French maritime pine bark extract to these areas and then exposed the forearm to sunlight. French maritime pine bark extract protected the skin in a dose-related manner, proving that it prevents inflammation of the UV-exposed skin. Dr. Lester Packer, University of California, Berkeley, and Dr. Ronald Watson, University of Arizona, Tucson, showed that after four weeks of supplementation, it took skin longer to redden in the sun.
Wrinkle Reduction: French maritime pine bark extract protects the cell membranes from sun damage, provides capillary support and helps preserve collagen. In this manner it acts as a collagen stabilizer because it binds to collagen and elastin, and protect these proteins from various enzymes that break them down, thus maintaining skin elasticity. This action reduces the thinning of skin that develops with aging. It also helps the skin rebuild its thickness and elasticity which are essential for skin smoothness and firmness hence preventing wrinkles. It is useful in supplementing antioxidant effects of vitamins C and E. Its skin care benefits may help protect the skin inside and out.
Health and Nutrition: Published research studies have demonstrated French maritime pine bark extract’s beneficial effects in cardiovascular and circulatory health, diabetes care, eye health, venous disorders, inflammatory skin care, healthy aging and menstrual disorders. Overall, it has been found to be very effective in the treatment of many degenerative diseases associated with aging.
French maritime pine bark extract can be taken orally too. It is utilized as a nutritional supplement and as a phytochemical remedy for various disorders, because it possesses potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties.2,3
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References:1. Packer L. et al. Antioxidant activity and biological properties of a procyanidin-rich
extract from pine bark, Pycnogenol. Free radic. Biol. Med. 1999 : 27,704.2. Rohdewald P. et al Encyclopedia of Dietary Supplements, M Dekker 2005, 545-553.3. Sime S, et al Protection from inflammation induced by UV radiation in mice by
topical Pycnogenol. Photochem Photobiol 2004 : 79 : 193.
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Chapter 31
A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES
ANTI-AGING creams and treatments are a big business these days because everyone wants to look good and ultimately, feel better. Whether we like it or not, looks do count!
Appearance has become an obsession for women and men, and this concern only intensifies as they age. Sales of anti-aging products are predicted to grow by 35% between 2004 and 2009, reaching $2.4 billion by 2009, according to Euromonitor. Total skin care product sales are forecast to grow 6% to $7.5 billion in 2009.
Consumers scan the internet, print and TV media to learn about all sorts of new anti-aging technologies, raw materials, botanicals and new delivery systems, all allegedly offering health and beauty enhancing benefits and compelling product performance claims. The FDA is primarily concerned with safety. So if the product is safe, the companies have a lot of liberty in terms of their exaggerations and their ability to promote and advertise their products, which has many of the companies making claims that are just not true.
What Consumers WantWe have all heard that consumers are well educated and very demanding, but is this really true? Let us also see how well informed they are. We get our answer in a survey sponsored a year ago by the Society of Dermatology Skincare Specialists (SDSS). It asked American women who use skin care products to answer a few simple questions about skin care, including identifying which types of ingredients they should use to treat common skin concerns such as dark spots, fine lines/wrinkles around the eyes or inflammation and bruising. Age, level of education and household income did not seem to matter; the results were poor all across the board.
According to Susanne Warfield, executive director of SDSS, the survey demonstrates that women who do not go to a skin care expert, such as a dermatologist or a licensed aesthetician, may be using wrong products, which may actually be making their condition worse. This survey also showed that U.S. women may be wasting money, as they spent an average of approximately $28 per month (or $336 per year) on skin care products that they rarely or never use because they are not right for them.
This column examines anti-aging science in three broad categories: technologies, new actives and botanicals. Let’s start with some of the newest ideas in anti-aging technology.
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Shock Chill the Skin: Talk about cold cream! Ice-Source is a new French cream featuring rapid refrigeration packaging that drops the product’s temperature from 22°C to 2°C in two minutes. The low temperature enables the cream to enter the skin better, creating a mini face-lift effect that lasts for eight hours. According to the manufacturer, the high-speed cooling causes the molecular retraction of a natural lipid inside the cream, which can penetrate deeply into the skin. Once the cream equilibrates to body temperature, the lipids regain their initial structure and fill the wrinkles by pushing them toward the skin surface.
The face, now smoothed and plumped, seems to have undergone an instant lifting. This product sells for $350 for 22 ml and is suitable for just a few topical applications. Ice-Source may produce temporary botox-like effects, but botox injections provide months of wrinkle relief and cost only a bit more.
But just how can refrigerating a cream make it fast absorbing? Actually, when frozen, the emulsion ingredients can barely be rubbed into the skin, making it unlikely that it would even get past the epidermis. The only temporary benefit of sudden cooling is constriction of blood vessels which result in transient skin tightening, and hydration which may have a short term beneficial effect. Neither is comparable to the effects produced by injected botox. Furthermore, it is possible that sudden change of temperature could induce redness which could be a real problem for those with rosacea.
Ozone Exposure: Chronic ozone exposure damages skin, but a brief exposure offers therapeutic benefits. G.Valacchi and colleagues published a study in British Journal of Dermatology (2005,153(6): 1096- 1100), in which they found that a progressive depletion of antioxidant content occurrs in the stratum corneum, which may lead to a cascade of effects resulting in an active cellular response in the deeper layers of the skin. Using an in-vivo model, they have shown an increase of proliferative, adaptive and pro-inflammatory cutaneous tissue responses.
In the same study, the authors investigated topical application of ozonated olive oil in several kinds of skin infection (including sores, diabetic ulcers, burns, traumatic and surgical wounds, abscesses and skin reactions after radiation). They observed an excellent cleansing effect with improved oxygenation and enhanced healing of these conditions.
Delivery Systems: B&P Company and Peter Passalacqua have developed a facial skin treatment known as Immune Perfect. When the product is applied to the skin, the caramel colored emulsion becomes clear and allegedly immediately penetrates the skin without residue, according to the manufacturer.
Cellulite: FDA has granted a 510(K) pre marketing clearance to Syneron’s VelaSmooth medical device. It offers an effective treatment for those seeking a medical solution to cellulite. It is powered by Electro-optical synergy (ELOS). According to Tina Alster, a clinical professor of dermatology at Georgetown University, VelaSmooth incorporates a combination of technologies enabling deeper heating and mechanical manipulation of cellulite in a non-invasive manner. It is only sold to physicians for use by trained professionals under their direction.
Oral/Topical: Keratec, a New Zealand biotechnology company, has developed two new natural raw materials: Cynergy TK, a topical active, and Cynergy NK, an oral supplement. Both are used simultaneously for synergistic effects. They contain keratin extracted from New Zealand sheep wool. Keratin, a structural protein, is a main constituent of hair and skin and has cell strengthening and softening properties.
UV Damage Control: Helioplex is a patented complex that stabilizes avobenzone, an important UVA protectant. Unfortunately, the longer avobenzone remains on the skin and is exposed to UV radiation, the more it degrades, reducing the sun protection it affords. By stabilizing the ingredient, Helioplex provides enhanced UV protection, which is a major anti-aging benefit.
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Heliocare capsules, manufactured by Ivax Dermatologicals, contain fern plant extracts which help stabilize the DNA in the cells and provide some protection from UV damage. Heliocare should be taken as a vitamin supplement—although users must still apply sunscreen, wear protective clothing or minimize exposure altogether.
Similarly, Sun Pill reportedly protects the skin against sun damage. But dermatologists are less than enthusiastic about these daily sun protection pills that work in conjunction with sunscreen lotions.
Night Creams: These overnight creams are said to work their magic while you sleep, but do they really work? Yes, says Richard Glogau a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. Dr. Glogau maintains that without the environmental distractions and with cells’ natural ability to renew during the night, the right treatment can help make the complexion look fresher and brighter.
Another study found that the skin temperature increases during sleep and that warmer skin absorbs more of a skin care product’s active ingredients. Consumers are advised to choose a night cream that is packed with vitamins to maximize the benefits. These include Almay Antiaging Night Concentrate, Clinique Repairwear intensive night cream, Lancôme Renergie Night and Sally Hanson Nighttime Heal Repair ointment.
Facial Stimulators: These devices are based on the medically unproven hypothesis that electrical stimulation of facial muscles improves tone, and hence reduces the signs of aging.
But according to a research study conducted by Sam Most of University of Washington Medical Center’s Cosmetic Surgery Center, there was no detectable improvement in signs of facial aging from the use of facial stimulator devices.New Actives
Muscle relaxant: Gamma amino butyric acid (GABA) has entered a category dominated by peptides. According to the manufacturer, Freeze 24-7 contains GABA which produces visible reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, without side effects. It is not however known how soon the beneficial effect is produced or how long it lasts.
No matter what their age, more consumers are purchasing anti-aging products.
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Polypeptides: R3P Cream is formulated with three polypeptides, sugar derivative, green tea, white tea, grape seed, she a butter and olive oil as skin emollients and moisturizers. This peptide-based cream is said to boost collagen and elastin formation to improve skin texture, clarity and tone. But the manufacturer won’t say how long the consumer must wait to see results or how long they last.
Glucosamine: Best known for treating arthritis, it is recognized for stopping the formation of new age spots and also helps fade the existing ones. According to Alexa Kimball, assistant professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School, these findings on glucosamine may impact the way dermatologists treat UV related skin damage in the future.
Amino acids: Many skin creams contain collagen, which supposedly nourishes the skin and reverses the signs of aging. But collagen is not absorbed through the skin and hence does not increase the production of collagen. Applying collagen cream may make skin look firm, but this may be due to hydration that could be achieved by any moisturizer.
The question is, how you deliver collagen to the skin? Saverio Dioguardi, a professor of internal medicine and gastroenterology, has researched the skin’s ability to absorb amino acids. He discovered that, with the right vehicle, amino acids form a functional cluster that gets absorbed deep into the dermis, sending a message to fibroblast cells to stimulate collagen production. Collagen is a large, fibrous protein that keeps skin supple and smooth. Clinical study results showed remarkable reduction in the depth of wrinkles and rejuvenated skin.
Chelator: Believe it or not, your skin could develop problems if you drink tap water. According to dermatologist Dennis Gross, heavy metals and other impurities found in water can build up on the skin’s surface. His Hydra-Pure chelating complex eliminates these heavy metals. In fact, Dr. Gross predicts that chelators could be as important as sunscreens for the complexion. Still, I wonder just how universal this problem really is? After all, don’t most households have water purifiers or filters which remove heavy metals anyway? Furthermore, many of the products available on the market today already contain chelators, which are added in the product to enhance the efficacy of the preservative system.
Elastatropin: This product, from DermaPlus, Inc., contains Tropoelastin, a precursor to human elastin and a complex chain of more than 600 amino acids. Clinical studies showed a significant reduction in the onset of wrinkles and facial sagging. According to the company, the active compound enters into the outer skin layers, crosslinks with other skin proteins and expands the flexible backbone of the skin. The cream reduces the need for botox or cosmetic surgery and extends the life of previous procedure.
As most well known brands such as Olay Regenerist and Strivectin have less then 10 amino acids containing peptides, it would be safe to assume the product efficacy is comparable or better.
BotanicalsRevive skin: Kosé Corp. recently reported that birch sap helps revive human skin and boosts its ability to retain moisture. However, Kosé did not specify which fraction of the sap has skin-friendly effects. Sap was applied to human epidermal cells. Compared with untreated cells, the sap-enhanced cells showed more than a 100-fold surge in production of involucrin, a protein for forming cell layers, and a 50% increase in filaggrin, another protein that boosts skin moisture.
Body odor: Offensive body odor may be due to a certain diet or medical condition, but whatever the cause, Kanebo has come to the rescue. The company has developed Otoko Kaoru, a gum that contains geraniol, a fragrant component found in roses,
108 A PRIMER ON EMERGING ANTI-AGING TECHNOLOGIES
that is also easily emitted from sweat glands. In theory, chewing this gum would leave consumer’s bodies smelling like a rose!
Skin is the first organ that reveals the effects of aging. Antioxidants, chemical peels, exfoliators and collagen stimulants all boost, rather than replace, skin’s natural activity. Additional research will provide plenty of new information. Of course, you cannot change your age, but biological aging can be delayed if the consumer follows a sensible diet, always protects the skin from sun and uses clinically proven anti-aging products.
Biological aging can be delayed with the right combination of diet, UV protection and skin care products.
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Chapter 32
LOOKING FOR BETTER SKIN? THEN JUST ADD WATER!
DEMAND FOR VITAMIN-ENRICHED products continues to heat up. Datamonitor estimates that sales of nutraceutical beverages will reach $7.4 billion by 2008. At the same time, sales of cosmeceuticals are expected to top
$12.4 billion according to Market Trends.Moreover, sports-related supplements accounted for $1.9 billion of the $19
billion Americans spent on dietary supplements in 2003, according to Nutrition Business Journal. What’s driving this growth? According Vincent Salvia, president of Millenium Natural Health, educated consumers are increasingly looking for a balanced line of results-oriented nutritional products. Our bodies are being ravaged every day by disease-carrying organisms and toxins that we absorb from food, water and air. The correct high quality supplements can combat these effects and help us maintain or even improve our health.
Furthermore, according to analyst Anil Naidu, of Frost and Sullivan, “in today’s fast-paced environment, a healthy lifestyle is absolutely essential. Enhanced awareness toward health and wellness is leading to a drastic change in the nutritional behavior of consumers.”
U.S. consumers already buy more bottled water than beer, milk or coffee according to Beverage Marketing Group, a New York-based consulting firm. Now, they’re starting to chug vitamin-enriched H2O. This column will review two bottled water products, their active ingredients and anti-aging skin claims.Skin Balance Water: This product makes an assortment of antiaging claims such as:
• For optimal results, two bottles/day is suggested to slow the visible signs of aging in just seven days.
• Specifically formulated to work with your unique body chemistry, and developed to help aging skin, fine lines and wrinkles.
• Water contains age-fighting skin-renewers to help soften fine lines and wrinkles, increase elasticity and renews skin’s natural glow.
• Increases the potential for bioavailable absorption of skin-caring ingredients into the dermis.
According to the manufacturer, this product combines the goodness of water with the benefits of topical skin-enhancing products. The label shows clearly all the active ingredients and associated anti-aging skin care benefits.
Airforce Radiant Nutrisoda: According to the nutrition specialist at Ardea Beverage, when it comes to radiant skin, you are what you drink. Radiant is said to
110 LOOKING FOR BETTER SKIN? THEN JUST ADD WATER!
help improve skin’s natural elasticity and firmness for beautiful, healthy, youthful-looking skin.
It contains skin-healthy nutrients such as amino acids, L-lysine, L-proline, L-arginine, plus gotu kola to help stimulate and maintain the body’s production of collagen and facilitate soft tissue repair. Another active, alpha lipoic acid, enhances the performance of antioxidants to help fight free radicals that contribute to the signs of premature aging. Vitamin D provides nourishment for the skin. Antioxidants vitamin A, selenium and green tea help defend against oxidative tissue damage and signs of premature aging. Rhodiola Rosea helps to relieve the tension and anxiety that can contribute to skin stress.
Regulatory IssuesNutraceuticals are not recognized by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. But because Airforce Radiant Nutrisoda and Skin Balance Water are food, they are regulated by the generally recognized as safe (GRAS) nutritional guidelines. They also may be monitored by the FTC for their marketing language on the label and the promotional materials. The Dietary Supplement Health and Education Act (DSHEA), passed in 1994, gave supplement makers a legal clearance to make claims on their labels and also permitted advertising claims regarding their benefits to the structure or function of the body—among other claims. These products are not approved by the FDA prior to their market launch.
What Drives the Claims?There is a general agreement that peptide-based topical creams, lotions and serums have emerged as a lead alternative to Botox and other wrinkle-fighting products that have been launched in recent years.
Peptide-based products are often the ingredients of choice in helping rejuvenate skin, firm its texture and smooth its appearance. Several clinical studies produced
Skin care you can sip? Drinking Borba Skin Balance Water reportedly improves the appearance of skin in just seven days. The manufacturer insists it increases the potential for bioavailable absorption of skin-caring ingredients into the dermis.
111 LOOKING FOR BETTER SKIN? THEN JUST ADD WATER!
visible antiaging benefits after nearly 90 days of use. Yet, Skin Balance Water claims visible benefits in just seven days. How can it deliver benefits so fast when the formula does not contain a trace of peptide?
The benefits derived from these bottled waters may be explained by carefully examining product labels.
First, it is important to remember that skin is an excellent indicator of vitamin deficiencies. Vitamin A deficiency leads to abnormally dry skin and horny thickening of hair follicles. Vitamin B6 or riboflavin deficiencies result in seborrheic dermatitis (oily facial skin with associated itching). Deficiency of niacin causes skin to become red and inflamed with blister-like eruptions. Deficiency of vitamin C causes capillary walls to break and bleed. Excessive wrinkling of the skin may also result because of smoking, diet and environmental pollution.
Vitamin B5 provides moisturizing benefits. Magnesium activates many enzymes and helps nerve and muscle function. Zinc is also part of many enzymes involved in digestion, metabolism, reproduction and wound healing. Vitamin K is needed for normal blood clotting and bone health. Vitamin B12 is vital for blood formation and a healthy nervous system. Vitamin E helps protect cells from free radical injury, serves as an antioxidant, may help protect against heart disease, cataract and certain cancers and is necessary for normal growth and development.
How Do They Work?Peptides, vitamins and water all play a vital role in skin health. Here’s a closer look at all three components.Peptides: The lack of collagen is a major cause of aging skin. Peptides are chains of naturally-occurring amino acids that stimulate the production of collagen. They have a wide range of activities in all living systems such as binding of enzymes, cellular communication mediating differentiation and proliferation, antibacterial, activating and/or inhibiting specific biochemical pathways. Peptides, and the protein they make up, coax aging skin into producing collagen along with hyaluronic acid, another ingredient that provides moisture. Such a process results in a plumping effect and a smooth, soft and younger-looking skin texture.
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REMARKABLE RETINOID
Global anti-aging product sales are forecast to grow 26% from 2011- 2016 to $28 billion. During this time, US anti-aging sales will climb 24% to $3.6 billion, according to Euromonitor International. Some of the most potent, collagen-
boosting raw materials are peptides and forms of vitamin A.Although they are completely synthetic, they are among the most potent anti-
aging ingredients and are used extensively by dermatologists and consumer health care companies. This column will briefly review retinol, which is rightly considered the gold standard of anti-aging raw materials.
According to Mintel, during the past three years, there have been 185 skin care product launches in North America, which cite retinol as an ingredient. These launches have occurred across all channels of distribution, from mass to class. Synthetic forms of vitamin A called retinoids have been used as drugs for a long time, and one of them, tretinoin (aka all-trans-retinoic acid) has proved effective for treatment of acne and wrinkles. Retinol became well known shortly after Retin-A made headlines as a prescription wrinkle cream back in 1987. Tretinoin is the active ingredient in Retin-A (Renova). Topical tretinoin is approved for the treatment and prevention of photo-aging.
Vitamin A, found primarily in red and green vegetables, is converted by the body from beta-carotene into retinol and then into retinoic acid. Retinol is a natural form of vitamin A that stimulates cell repair, regulates skin functions and is necessary for skin cell regeneration. It is incorporated into serums and moisturizers to stimulate collagen production. Its side effects include redness and irritation. Retinol is not active when applied to skin. Applying retinol to damp skin does not maximize its potency. Retinol potency is related to skin chemistry and retinol receptors.
Skin cells receive the retinol, and hold on to it until needed, converting only the needed amount into retinoic acid. This attribute can dramatically reduce the adverse effects of retinoic acid, which include peeling, flaking, sun-sensitivity and redness. Despite these temporary side effects, ultimately, retinol generates beneficial skin results. Retinol-induced skin flaking is not like the exfoliation you get from use of glycolic acid. Retinol is gentler than retinoic acid. Biochemically, it accomplishes the same objective as retinoic acid, but at a slower pace. Retinol is the most studied and most common ingredient found in cosmeceuticals. Retinoic acid is a very small
The structural formula of retinol.
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molecule that easily penetrates all layers of the skin, prompting rapid cell-turnover and exfoliation in the process. This mechanism helps explain its efficacy in repairing photoaging, treatment of brown spots, acne and roughness. Its regular application improves the signs of photo-aging and chronological skin aging. Retinoic acid is marketed in three concentrations: 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1%. Avoid physical contact with eyes, mouth and during pregnancy.
EffectivenessRetinoids work at a much more profound level by affecting gene expression and causing enhanced production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, two of the main components of dermis, which give skin firmness, fullness, skin smoothing, even skin pigmentation while also slowing the age-related loss of these two components, resulting in proactively preventing lines and wrinkles that have not yet formed. Retinoids cannot alter the gene itself or its DNA, hence you must keep using them to retain anti-aging effects.
Furthermore, they prevent the production of collagenase, the enzyme that breaks down collagen after UV exposure. It takes an average of 12 weeks of use to produce noticeable changes in the skin. Several clinical research studies have shown that retinoids trigger changes in the skin to make it look clearer and youthful. On the subject of skin lightning, retinol and retinoic acid are well known for their ability to increase skin-cell turnover. They are added to many skin lightning formulations to speed the removal of pigment granules and accelerate the effects of other whitening agents.
Some CaveatsThey must be used continually for best results. It is important to remember that retinoids breakdown in sunlight, which is why they are packaged in opaque packaging and are best applied at night. It is better to use micro-encapsulated retinol in the formula because it remains protected from light, oxygen, moisture etc. When the finished product is applied on face, the polymeric encapsulation film is broken, releasing free retinol to show its benefits.
Retinoids make skin thinner, and thus more vulnerable and sensitive to sun exposure. Always use a sunscreen if you choose skin lightener that is formulated with retinoids. Dryness can also be a problem.
According to Kate Spetrino, a marketing manager with BASF, claims that are currently used in the marketplace include: anti-aging, collagen boosting, reduce fine lines, increase cell turn over, even out skin tone, repair, smooth, firm, illuminate and protect the skin, boost skin’s radiance, visibly lift skin, enhance skin texture for smoothness and softness, brighten skin tone, firming and illuminating.
Retinoic acid was originally intended for acne treatment. Clinical studies surprisingly proved that retinoic acid not only prevented skin aging but also improved pre-existing skin damage. Vitamin A and retinoic acid are both the mainstay of prescription medical treatment for acne. They affect the production and cohesiveness of cells that line and plug the follicle, thus preventing the progression of acne from becoming severe. Retin-A (tretenoin) works by decongesting follicular debris, helping to clear the follicles of comedones and opening up clogged pores. It is also an excellent agent for oily skin and pimples. Tretinoin, available in cream, gel and liquid form, requires a physician’s prescription.
The question arises: if retinol works as well as well as the label promises, then why would you ever need to use Retin-A or Renova? Tretenoin addresses only one aspect of aging skin, which is bound to generate skin irritation and inflammation.
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To avoid this, just remember to use a moisturizer that is formulated with sunscreens, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatory agents. It is safe to caution consumers that over-use of retinoids would thin the skin, causing chronic inflammation leading to premature aging.
Supporting this thought is the comment made by well-known dermatologist Tina Alster that too much skin inflammation breaks down collagen leading to more lines and sagging.
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Chapter 34
COTTON THISTLE SHOWS PROMISE AS SKIN REPAIR COSMECEUTICAL
IT IS NO LONGER enough for skin care products to make claims about their role in preventing the signs of aging—they are now under pressure to prove it. For ingredient suppliers, active skin ingredients with proven efficacy are already
among the stars of the personal care ingredients market.According to Euromonitor International, sales of active skin ingredients rose 5% a
year from 2004 to 2009 and are projected to grow 3% annually from 2009- 2014. That’s nearly double the growth rate forecast for all personal care ingredients, so it is no surprise to see ingredient suppliers dedicating hefty R&D budgets to exploring new active ingredients and their delivery.
Take, for example, cotton thistle, which has the unexpected property of epidermal repair and skin hydration.1
Who could possibly have thought that something as spiky and prickly as a thistle could repair burned skin damaged by overexposure to the sun? A new active ingredient for skin care extracted from Onopordum acanthium, better known as cotton thistle, has provided exactly this benefit. This botanical name comes from ancient Greek words meaning “donkey food.” Cotton thistle is a wild plant growing in central France. It is well known in folklore and within the medical world for its stimulating and cardio-toning effects and has been used to treat gastric ulcers.2 Furthermore, additional research has now demonstrated its repairing efficacy on the skin’s barrier function.
Barrier Function: This term relates to health and function of the stratum corneum. A healthy
Cotton thistle may improve skin’s barrier function.
116 COTTON THISTLE SHOWS PROMISE AS SKIN REPAIR COSMECEUTICAL
barrier function prevents water loss and protects against irritants, insults and bacterial infections. Promoting barrier repair refers to the repair of both surface and follicular stratum corneum, which tends to be different in acne and rosacea skin conditions. Factors that promote healthy barrier include intercellular lipids, natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and number of layers of stratum corneum. Promoting barrier repair improves dryness, roughness, redness, irritation, acne, rosacea, facial flushing, fine lines and uneven skin tone.
Sun-Damaged Skin: The natural aging process and excessive sun exposure have a negative effect on the skin’s barrier function. Cotton thistle extract was topically applied to both artificially damaged and normal human skin ex-plant. Results showed for both cases an increase of keratinocyte differentiation through increased expression of loricrine, involucrine and LEKT1. In addition, LEKT1 expression promoted cellular cohesion, improving the barrier protection properties of the skin.
Treated Skin: When skin has undergone certain cosmetic procedures such as chemical peels, dermabrasion and laser, it is vital that a new epidermis is rapidly regenerated. Topical application of cotton thistle was shown to stimulate cutaneous repair. A decrease in transepidermal water loss was demonstrated in-vivo using stripped skin. This observation clearly indicates its role in epidermal restoration.
ConclusionsEveryone wants to repair sun and environmental damage. However, this can be difficult for women with acne, skin allergies and rosacea, because they have different surface and follicular stratum corneum. Because many products use plant extracts as performance ingredients, based on their anecdotal benefits, their efficacy is questionable. On the other hand, as a new botanical active, cotton thistle may deliver efficacy for barrier-compromised skin care products since this active has successfully promoted keratinocyte differentiation, cellular cohesion, epidermal repair and skin hydration.
References1. Repair of sun-damaged skin by Cotton Thistle Active, Dr. Paula Lennon, Gattefossé
SAS 36 Chemin De Genas, BP 603, F-69804 Saint Priest Cedex France.2. Cysarz D. et al (2002). Effects of an Anthroposophical Remedy on Cardiorespiratory
Regulation. Alter. Ther. Health Med, 8(6), 78-83.
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Chapter 35
THE ROLE OF PHYTOSTEROLS IN COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS
THE ANTI-AGING trend is now a global phenomenon. The desire to maintain a youthful appearance is strongest in the affluent markets of North America, Europe and Australasia where consumers spent a combined $7.7 billion on
wrinkle-reducing facial creams in 2007 according to Euromonitor. New cosmeceuticals are driving this trend. It is a market projected to reach $15.8 billion by 2010 according to Tera Hawkins, founder of the Carol Cole Company, San Diego, CA, a facial esthetic technology company. This month’s column will briefly review emerging antiaging benefits of phytosterols, which are powerful chemical compounds found in many plants.
Phytosterols are extracted from different botanical sources such as olives, avocados, coconut, cocoa butter, sunflower seeds and soy. They are a type of sterol, a specific class of chemical compound, and are very similar to cholesterol, the type of sterol found in animals. In plants, phytosterols contribute to the structure of the cell membrane just like cholesterol does in animals. Foods rich in phytosterols include oils, nuts and wheat germ.
The fundamental biological effect of phytosterols is its anti-inflammatory properties for which it is used in anti-aging products. In clinical studies, phytosterols and polyphenols improved sun-damaged skin. Shea butter and avocado oil offer skin protection and rejuvenation benefits because of their high content of phytosterols. These compounds are used in skin care products with the objective of improving skin health. Hair care products use a mixture of phytosterols such as avocado or similar compounds primarily for their hair softening and conditioning properties. Still, the skin and hair benefits of phytosterols are not widely known, and in fact, are now evolving.
Clinical StudiesOne of the contributing factors in the aging of the skin is the breakdown and loss of collagen, primarily because of unprotected sun exposure. As the body ages, it cannot produce collagen as it once did. This was the subject of the clinical study by National Institute of Health of Germany. In this study, various topical preparations
118 THE ROLE OF PHYTOSTEROLS IN COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS
were tested on skin for 10 days. The topical treatment that showed the most anti-aging benefits to the skin was the one that contained phytosterols and other natural fats. The study further found that phytosterols not only stopped the sun-induced slow down of collagen production, it actually encouraged new collagen production.
A second clinical study evaluated cutaneous reconstruction by apple seed phytosterols (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 27, Issue 2, Mar. 2005). The study authors analyzed the effects of apple seed phytosterols on age-related structural and functional parameters using cell biochemical, molecular, biological and bioengineering techniques. This study was initiated because plant secondary metabolites such as flavonoids, isoflavones and phytosterols have been proposed as cosmetic ingredients displaying antiaging effects. In the study, the expression of age-related genes was studied using skin equivalents and DNA microarrays. Incubation of skin equivalents with apple seed phytosterols had significant consequences, namely differential regulation of a set of genes associated with keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, stimulation of hyaluronic acid synthesis and increase of epidermal thickness. Furthermore, in-vivo studies revealed that apple seed phytosterols improved skin elasticity while decreasing skin roughness. The study concluded that phytosterols displayed distinct biological effects and significantly improved the structure and function of mature skin.
A third clinical study examined in-vivo spectrophotometric evaluation of skin barrier recovery after topical application of soybean phytosterols. The study results showed clearly that phytosterols exerted positive results on skin repair. In fact, three days after tape stripping, the sites treated with a formulation containing phytosterols showed an appreciable recovery of barrier function compared to those treated with a vehicle control without soy phytosterols. Klaber coined the term, “phyto-photodermatitis” to address skin reactions that could be caused by external contact with plants or plant products and subsequent exposure to light (Brit. J. Dermatol., 64: 193, 1942).
Formulations and ClaimsAdding oils that are high in phytosterols to cosmetic emulsions would surely help damaged skin recover from environment-induced injuries such as pollution and sun damage. Formulators are advised to conduct adequate safety studies prior to the product launch. It is also important to know that phytosterols are not watersoluble and they have very poor solubility in oils and fats. This solubility issue is largely resolved by Extracts & Ingredients, Union, NJ, through the use of its patented Vortex micronizing technology. This technique creates an easily suspendable material, MicroPhyte, which is suitable for both food and skin care products.
As noted in the clinical studies cited here, phytosterol-based skin care products deliver moisture to the skin, as well as softening, skin barrier strengthening, elasticity boosting and anti-inflammatory benefits. Phytosterols also have applications in hair care and bath products.
Phytosterols aid the skin’s barrier mechanism recovery by penetrating into, rather than occluding onto, the skin. New uses will be explored for these botanical actives as consumers become more interested in using personal care products based on natural ingredients.
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Chapter 36
BEAUTY AND THE BEACH: WONDERS FROM THE SEA
MARINE-DERIVED ingredients, including seaweed, algae and sea salts, often have excellent anti-irritant, antioxidant, moisturizing, and antiaging properties, which makes them integral components of products for the
fast-growing spa industry. Seaweeds are extremely hardy, adapting to changes in temperature and intense exposure to UV radiation. As a result, they thrive even as they are immersed in water and exposed to air. There are more than 3000 types of seaweed and each has unique properties. Seaweed extracts are loaded with amino acids, such as alanine, glycine and proline, to stimulate collagen synthesis and inhibit enzymes that destroy collagen and elastin. Seaweeds are broadly divided in three classes based on their color— brown, red and green. Many types of seaweeds are known by their Japanese names such as wakame, hijiki and kombu. Twelve seaweeds are widely used in spas: arame, bladderwrack, dulse, hijiki, irish moss, kelps, kombu, nori, sea lettuce, sea palm and wakame. The traditional Japanese bath includes strips of kombu or bladderwrack to dissipate excess fat deposits and soften the skin. With regular use, it reportedly improves the skin barrier and slows the aging process. Seaweeds have almost no calories, are extremely low in fat and are a great source of high quality protein and calcium.
Seaweeds are available in a variety of forms: whole, powder, extract, liquid and gel. They have a predominant amount of iodine, protein and minerals—all of them good for the skin. Laminaria or green algae is especially rich in iodine and reportedly stimulates cell oxygen content. Fucus or brown algae is rich in antioxidants and has a detoxifying benefit to the body. Spirulina is a single-cell algae that is loaded with protein and antioxidants. Rich in calcium and magnesium, white algae is an antiinflammatory and boosts blood circulation.
Seaweeds contain rare minerals, soluble salts and other skin beneficial ingredients, too. Concentrated seaweed extracts yield superior cosmetic properties thanks to key components such as amino acids, polysaccharide and oligo elements which must be carefully preserved during processing. Both seaweeds and seawater are said to firm the skin. Seawater and human blood plasma reportedly have identical composition. No wonder why the French have practiced La Thalasso Therapie or seawater therapy for a long time.
Other ingredients, such as sea salts, sea mud and coral powder are used in wraps, creams, lotions and scrubs. Their active constituents are said to oxygenate and promote healthy skin.
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The Dead Sea ThrivesSeawater, mud and salt are all rich sources of minerals and have healing and soothing benefits. The Dead Sea is a unique source for these ingredients due to its dense concentration of minerals, including potassium, magnesium, sodium, calcium and chloride. Muds have high absorption capacity due to its colloidal size particles. But Dead Sea mud is different from other muds as it is not created by decomposing seaweeds or clays. Nor does it have any known side effects. Due to its high aluminum silicate content, Dead Sea mud provides relief from eczema and is often incorporated into face masks, body masks and baths.
Mud masks help refresh and pamper skin as well as promote cell rejuvenation. They remove dead skin cells and excess oil, while their deep cleansing action refreshes and revives the skin. The mud is usually applied to the skin without causing sensitization or irritation. Sea water and algae contain magnesium, strontium and algal polysaccharides fucoidan laminara which have antibacterial and antiviral properties. These cumulatively provide relief to psoriatic skin.
A Range of UsesSeaweed body wraps are thick pastes made from fresh or dried seaweed, seawater and sea minerals. They are applied on the skin to create a coated surface which is then covered with a plastic sheet followed by a couple of warm blankets for 30-40 minutes. This occlusive skin treatment facilitates close contact of enzymes, mineral and other active ingredients with skin to provide remineralization and balance the whole body. Before they are washed off in a warm shower, wraps moisturize, firm and tone the skin giving it a healthy glow.
C-phycocyanin is a protein-bound pigment in blue-green algae, which occurs in four different structural forms. In vivo and in-vitro experimental models confirmed C-phycocyanin’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.1
These studies also demonstrated that blue-green algae is a bio-modulator with immuno-enhancing properties that could be beneficial in the treatment of AIDS and cancer.2 Alginates and carrageenans are extracted from seaweeds. When carrageenans are hydrolyzed, the resulting oligosaccharides yield additional
The Dead Sea is alive with therapeutic minerals and salts.
121 BEAUTY AND THE BEACH: WONDERS FROM THE SEA
skin benefits.3 Adequately purified algae maintains its pale beige color. Poorly purified material assumes a brown color. To maintain a superior cosmetic product appearance, a lighter pale grade material should always be used. Anticellulite preparations often contain seaweeds, as they are rich in vitamins, oligo elements, amino acids, iodine and mineral salts, which drain adipose accumulation, and stimulate and strengthen relaxed tissues. Clay, on the other hand, creates an isolating layer that increases body temperature to dialate pores and reduce water retention to reduce cellulite.
In cosmetic formulations, algae and its derivatives thicken products such as toothpastes, shaving creams and lotions. They also possess skin moisturizing and conditioning benefits. These ingredients can be difficult to preserve, hence suppliers sell them in different forms such as alcoholic extracts, infusions or suspensions.
Kelp from the South Atlantic Ocean is a renewable resource of minerals, amino acids and natural gels. Sea parsley is saturated with antiinflammatory and skin-soothing components. It is grown under controlled conditions to provide a consistent quality extract to the cosmetic industry.
An extract of the red seaweed Rhodophyta has a balance of minerals similar to those found in blood plasma, which reportedly gives it great affinity to skin. It contains more vitamin C than apples, more zinc than oysters, considerably more iron and potassium than spinach and more vitamin A than tomatoes, according to Collaborative Laboratories. Clinical studies have shown that this material provides 16% better protection from skin redness and 64% better skin barrier protection than Sea Whip extract against which it was measured. Bluegreen algae has potent amounts of anti-irritants and inhibitors of collagenase and elastase. Upon fermentation, it transforms into sea-derived antioxidants.
Anti-aging ActivesSeveral recent technological advances are providing unique opportunities for
formulators to select specific marine ingredients for their antiaging products. One of these, squalene, is sourced from shark liver oil. It smoothes and softens the skin texture. It makes skin look more radiant and supple while hydrating and soothing dry, irritated skin. It helps protect the skin from free radical damage.
Marine Plant Extract is developed by extracting fluid from the cellular mass of various marine organisms.4 It contains polysaccharides, vitamins and essential sea minerals. It is made from a combination of seaweeds specifically red algae and marine animals. It also contains small quantities of water soluble B, A and C vitamins, niacinamide and pantothenic acid in its co-factor form. It is suggested for use in spa products, moisturizers, serums and body washes.
Apt material is bio-engineered from a strain of the red marine algae.5 Its remarkable bio-activity is derived from its molecular weight peptide fraction of between 500 to 5,000 daltons. Its polypeptide fraction synergizes well with the polysaccharides to impart moisturization, soothing and aesthetic skin benefits. In cell culture studies, it stimulated fibroblast proliferation, triggering cellular synthesis. Both in-vitro and in-vivo studies confirmed its cosmetic benefits such as reducing wrinkles, improving short and long term moisturization, and improving and soothing irritated skin.
Homeostatine is an active complex of and Andean tree and a marine seaweed. It is designed to prevent and reduce wrinkles by increasing the production of dermal collagen and other extracellular matrix components in fibroblasts, by inhibiting the synthesis of pro-inflammatory mediators.5 This natural cosmetic ingredient combines the activity of both of its components to produce a remarkable anti-wrinkle effect.
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An Effective Cellulite TreatmentPlankton Total Extract consists of organisms which float freely and involuntarily
in open water.5 In cosmetics, the glucides provided by the phytoplankton fraction make it useful in moisturizing products such as body milks, hand creams and bath gels. The large amount of oligo elements and iodine, due to their attributed lipolitic action, make it suitable in cellulite and slimmimg formulations. The oligo elements and free amino acids are also fundamental in tissue restructuring and may be incorporated into anti-aging products.
Aldavine is a highly-potent cosmetic active ingredient derived from two different algae leading to the association of two sulphated algal polysaccharides.6 It mainly targets the cytokine VEGF and also modulates PGE2 activity. Three biochemical mediators are upregulated in the skin upon aging, exposure to UV and environmental insults and are associated with microcapillary dilation and hyper-permeability. It is suggested for anti-aging, acne, sensitive skin and after-sun care products. It improves skin barrier function. The VEGF pathway is the most innovative feature of this new material.
Homeosta-sea, an anti-aging raw material, is created from four algae derivatives.6 Together, they complement each other and improve the appearance of skin. Homeo-Shield (INCI: Fucus serratus extract and glycerol) is derived from brown algae. It improves skin barrier function. Homeo-Age (INCI: Acsophyllum nodosum extract and sorbitol and water) is derived from brown algae which is rich in vitamins and minerals. It stimulates cellular growth. It rejuvenates cells at the molecular level. Homeoxy (INCI: Entermorpha compressa extract and Palmaria palmate extract, sorbitol and water) is made from two algae known for their high vitamin B content. It prevents UV-induced skin damage. Finally, Homeo-Soothe (INCI: Acsophyllum nodosum extract, sorbitol and water) is extracted from brown seaweed. It reduces inflammatory response and protects the skin from environmental pollutants.
According to the manufacturer, when these four algae extracts are merged together their biological profiles combine to form an ingredient that acts effectively as an anti-aging product. Marine Biopolymer6 enhances the viscosity of skin and
Brittany has always been an excellent source for marine extracts.
123 BEAUTY AND THE BEACH: WONDERS FROM THE SEA
hair formulations. It is the only natural polymer that is positively charged, allowing interaction with biological surfaces such as skin and hair. Tensa-Lift6 is a compound based on marine biopolymer with a specific tensing activity. Within minutes after application, this tensorial activity softens skin and makes it appear younger. Since it uses a carefully selected grade of polymer, the poly-cationic feature of this raw material increases its bio-adhesion to the skin thereby intensifying its tensing effect according to the manufacturer. Lanablue6 is sourced from blue algae. This retinoid-like ingredient activates the proliferation of keratinocytes and inhibits the differentiation of corneocytes. It is an anti-aging active with soothing power which has been demonstrated by several clinical studies.
Most enzymes, be they of plant, animal or bacterial origin, are inactive or have low potency level at room temperature.7 Marine enzymes, on the other hand, are at their peak potency level at skin temperature. Cold-adapted marine enzymes are derived from cod fish. These enzymes exfoliate, reduce inflammation, heal wounds and scars, and improve acne and other skin conditions. The self-preserving nature of certain marine enzymes allow for preservative-free cosmetic compositions. These aqueous marine enzyme formulas are pure and safe, thereby appealing to the consumer searching for natural and effective skin care therapies.
A Powerful AntioxidantAstaxanthin comes from the microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis found in abundance in arctic marine environments. A natural carotenoid, it is a powerful antioxidant and is often referred to as “red gold from the sea.” It provides wrinkle reduction by internal supplementation and reduces hyper-pigmentation. The material also has very good anti-inflammatory properties Gorgonian Extract GC8 is a natural marine extract derived from Pseudo-pterogorgia elisabethae (Sea Whip). This anti-inflammatory ingredient is safe, effective and environmentally friendly. The anti-inflammatory properties of pseudopterosins are well documented. This ingredient (INCI: Caprylic/capric triglyceride and Sea Whip extract), is ideal for use in sun care products, aftershaves and skin care treatments.
Pseudopterosin, Sea Whip’s active component, is currently under review as a new drug for treating burns, contact dermatitis, psoriasis and arthritis.
Kimarine, derived from edible seaweed, has been clinically proven to lighten skin and provide protection from reactive oxygen species.
Helionori is a marine active ingredient providing protection against UVA irradiation, due to the presence of special compounds called mycosporine-like amino acid.
Actiseane, developed from brown seaweeds, counters several factors that contribute to skin aging including slower cellular turnover assisting in wound healing and inflammation soothing.9 Several well-known skin care companies use seaweed and seawater as their products “magic” ingredient. Crème de La Mer, a broth of bio-fermented Pacific Coast sea kelp, was developed by Dr. Max Huber to treat his scarred skin and the cream is sold for more than $100 an ounce. Phytomer’s skin care line contains marine actives, while Repechage’s skin care lines are based on different seaweeds to provide skin anti-aging benefits.
Natural and organic products are the fastest-growing sector of the cosmetic industry. Several studies have found that seawater in cosmetic products revitalizes and remineralizes skin cells. It boosts the immune system, prevents infection, stimulates basic enzymes and protects the skin from allergies by antihistaminic action. Seaweeds cleanse the toxins out of the body, beautify the complexion and slow the aging process.
124 BEAUTY AND THE BEACH: WONDERS FROM THE SEA
References:1. C. Romay et al, Inflamm. Res. 47(1998) 36-41, 1023-3830/98/010036-062. Gitte Jensen et al, Holger N. I. S. Inc, Port Dover, Ontario, Canada.3. C. Bodeau-Bellion, M. Boue Grabot and C. Chesne, Carrageenan oligosaccharides.
Cosmet. Toil. 112(9) 93-96 (1997).4. Arch personal Care, Inc., S. Plainfield, NJ 07080.5. Centerchem, Inc., Norwalk, CT 068506. Atrium Biotechnologies, Quebec, Canada.7. J. Bjarnason, Les Nouvelles Esthetiques and Spa. Nov. 2007.8. Lipo Chemicals, Paterson, NJ 07504. 9. Biosil, Paterson, NJ.9. Biosil, Paterson, NJ.
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Chapter 37
ANTI-AGING SUPPLEMENTS FINALLY COME OF AGE
On Jan. 1, no matter what the year, nearly everyone makes a resolution to adopt a healthier lifestyle. Healthier living and proactive health management are two megatrends impacting the supplement industry. The wealth of
knowledge available to the average consumer is greater today than it has ever been before. Consumers are paying attention to their outward appearance and resolving to do something to improving it. This focus creates opportunities for supplement manufacturers. According to Euromonitor International, despite some negative press reports regarding adverse health effects of consuming vitamins, sales of vitamins and dietary supplements are expected to grow 4% to reach $26.8 billion by 2016.
This column will briefly review antiaging supplements that are widely recognized for slowing down the aging process and also keep skin younger and healthierlooking. The theory that supplements don’t absorb well and are thus, a waste of money is not accurate. It appears that modern food processing methods, poor dietary choices, atmospheric pollution and stressful living may inhibit the body’s ability to assimilate all of the nutrients that are required for the maintenance of good health, which explains, consumers growing interest in this growing, vibrant category. Although none of the supplements have been proven to slow aging, they are recommended by medical authorities on the basis of suggestive scientific evidence that supplements significantly inhibit inflammatory reactions and block damaging free radicals that are linked to the aging process.
Açai: This antioxidant-rich, energyboosting fruit is known for its healing and immune-stimulating benefits. It improves heart health, aids in weight loss and helps with digestive problems. Açai is rich in antioxidants, catechins, procyanidins, sterols and phenolic acids. It protects against oxidative damage, lipid peroxidation, reduces ROS and pro-inflammatory cytokines.
Acetyl-L-Carnitine Arginate: The amino acid acetyl-L-carniti ne boosts mitochondrial energy production through its ability to facilitate fatty acid transport and oxidation in the cell. Acetyl-L-Carnitine Arginate is a patented form of carnitine that stimulates the growth of neurites in the brain.
Fish oil has a wide range of beauty benefits.
126 ANTI-AGING SUPPLEMENTS FINALLY COME OF AGE
Alpha Lipoic Acid: This ingredient is a powerful antioxidant that promotes healthy cell function, boosts skin’s radiance and minimizes enlarged pores and surface imperfections. It is taken orally and applied topically. Alpha lipoic acid is also effective in recycling other antioxidants such as vitamin E back into their original form after they detoxify free radicals. There also is evidence that alpha lipoic acid can reduce the damage caused by excess glucose in the blood.
L-Alpha-glycerylphosphorylcholine (GPC): GPC is a byproduct of phosphatidylcholine, which helps to boost acetylcholine. It aids in the synthesis of several brain phospholipids, which increases the availability of acetylcholine in various brain tissues. The GPC form of choline has been shown in studies to help protect against cognitive decline that normally occurs with aging.
Carnosine: Found both in food and in the human body, carnosine levels decline with age. Aging causes irreversible damage to the body’s proteins. The underlying mechanism behind this damage is glycation, which causes wrinkles. Carnosine is a unique dipeptide that interferes with the glycation process, conferring anti-aging skin benefits
Coenzyme Q10: This is an essential component of healthy mitochondrial function. Mitochondria are power centers within cells that generate energy throughout the body where it facilitates and regulates the oxidation of fats and sugars into energy. Most of the cellular energy is produced by mitochondria. With age, cellular mitochondria levels decrease, and cause other health maladies essentially due to mitochondrial disorders.
Fish Oil: This oil is a most popular dietary supplement. Studies on omega-3 fatty acids are so important that a National Institute of Health report noted that fish oil can help reduce death caused by heart disease. The FDA itself states supportive but not conclusive research shows that consumption of ecosopentanoic acid (EPA) and DHA omega-3-fatty acids may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease as they fight free radicals and inflammation. Fish oil helps skin retain moisture and protect it from sunburn. There are several mechanisms attributed to fish oil’s beneficial effects. The latest government report cites the triglyceride-lowering effects of fish oil on reducing heart and blood vessel disorders. Another beneficial mechanism of fish oil is to protect healthy blood flow in arteries.
Grape Seed Extract: This extract is the richest source of oligomeric proanthocyanidin (OPC), making it one of the most powerful antioxidants. It is rich
Açai is rich in antioxidants, catechins,procyanidins, sterols and phenolic acids.
127 ANTI-AGING SUPPLEMENTS FINALLY COME OF AGE
in polyphenols. It helps protect cells from free radical damage and also promotes healthy blood circulation. It promotes brain, skin and eye health and it improves cardiac health and mental alertness.
Green Tea Extract: What makes green tea extract such an important nutrient is the large volume of published scientific findings that validate its multiple biological benefits. The most significant findings involve studies showing that green tea extract helps maintain cellular DNA and membrane structural integrity. Decades of research shows that green tea inhibits the development of undesirable cell colonies. The active constituents in green tea are powerful antioxidants called polyphenols (catechins) and flavonols. Several catechins are present in green tea and account for the bulk of favorable research reports. Epigallocatechin (EGCG) is the most powerful of these catechins. EGCG functions as an antioxidant that is about 25-100 times more potent than vitamins C and E. Green tea’s high antioxidant activity helps protect the body from oxidative damage caused by free radicals.
Lutein/Zeaxanthin: These are potent antioxidant carotenoids found in green leafy vegetables such as spinach, kale and collard greens. They offer eye and skin health benefits, such as improving skin elasticity and hydration. Daily intake of 6-10mg may be beneficial.
Lycopene: Lycopene is a type of carotenoid found naturally in foods that are red, such as tomatoes, watermelon, apricots, pink grapefruit and guava. It helps promote smoother, younger looking skin, and high levels of lycopene in the skin block UV rays to some degree. Lycopene also helps to improve cell metabolism and cell communication. The daily requirement is between 25-75mg a day.
Melatonin: Melatonin is a hormone produced by the pineal gland, which is located beneath the brain. Melatonin is a highly potent antioxidant, and has been described as the pacemaker of the aging clock in humans. It is released every night as part of our time-dependent biorhythms to help induce sleep and recuperate from fatigue. Published studies indicate the importance of maintaining youthful levels of melatonin to protect against age-related degenerative diseases.
Polypodium leucotomos: This is a phenolic antioxidant with photo-protective, anti-inflammatory and immunemodulating effects. In a study of 21 human subjects, polypodium leucotomos administered orally or topically provided photo-protection to skin.
Pycnogenol: This ingredient has a range of antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiinflammatory, photo-protective, anti-carcinogenic effects. Oral supplements taken for eight weeks reduced UV-induced cutaneous erythema.
Quercetin: A bioflavanoid, providing body with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant protection, quercetin is found in many plants such as black tea, broccoli, onions, red apples and red wine. Ideally, 100-250mg of this nutrient should be taken three times a day.
Resveratrol: Resveratrol packs a powerful antioxidant punch to soothe inflammation, protect skin against environmental damage and fight premature aging. It is said to offer a broad range of health benefits. It hydrates, firms and lifts the skin according to some research studies. It is found in red grape skin, raspberries and mulberries.
Vitamin C: This well-known vitamin improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin. It reduces inflammation, promotes collagen production and strengthens skin’s barrier response. This water-soluble antioxidant is not produced by the body. Vitamin C reduces melanin formation via tyrosinase inhibition.
The only way to flawless skin is to keep the inside of the body healthy. Skin’s endogenous supply of antioxidants is reinforced by orally or topically administered antioxidants, thus combating an overload of oxidative stress. Regular exercise also has an anti-aging effect and could delay premature aging.
128 ANTI-AGING SUPPLEMENTS FINALLY COME OF AGE
As a general rule, it is preferable to eat healthy food and try taking supplements for maintenance of good health before considering drugs for any minor ailments. Because supplements are taken orally, their activity is systemic, providing skin benefits.
No one can rewind time, nor can anyone reverse the ravages that the aging process puts on our bodies. The only sensible thing we can do to manage the aging process is to make intelligent decisions about what we consume, how we protect ourselves from UV and how we live.•
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Chapter 38
THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF MATRIXYL SUBSTANTIATED
IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY of manufacturers of anti-aging products to make sure that all product claims, either on the label or those made in advertising, are fully substantiated. Companies rely on different kinds of substantiation methods
to support their claims because there is no particular method of claim validation for different kinds of products. Consumers are drawn to purchase the product because of the claims. Companies must choose the claims they want to make, as there are so many types of claims to choose from, such as objective, comparative, superiority, parity or pre-emptive. Several clinical methods are available to substantiate product performance claims, such as skin barrier and trans-epidermal water loss, skin moisture measurement by conductivity, skin surface replicas and their measurements, skin firmness and elasticity, fine line and wrinkle reduction and skin extensibility measurements.There are clinical research laboratories that customize protocols to fit the specific need of each client and each product. Standard or custom protocols can provide clinical evaluations for skin care and cosmetic product claim validation. They offer safety and efficacy testing.
A Brief BackgroundPeptides are amino-based substances with different activities such as pain perception, antibacterial activity, cellular communication, mediating anabolic/catabolic activity, binding to enzymes and mediating differentiation/ proliferation. Research by Katayama and others2 suggests that small peptide fragments of collagen may be involved as messengers directing skin fibroblasts to generate extra cellular matrix production.
This research also reported that the KTTKS peptide sequence from type I pro-collagen stimulated production of collagen I, III and fibronectin in cell culture. Lintner and others4 have modified KTTKS by reacting it with palmitic acid for the purpose of enhancing skin penetration.
They also reported that pal-KTTKS amino peptide increases glycosaminoglycan synthesis in human fibroblast culture. This is comparable to TGFB in increasing collagen I synthesis as measured in ex-vivo studies of a product containing 3 ppm of pal-KTTKS vs. placebo and vs. a 0.07% retinol product has suggested that pal-KTTKS reduces the appearance of wrinkles much like retinol.
130 THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF MATRIXYL SUBSTANTIATED
Scientists I have independently evaluated, in a large base clinical study, a fully developed moisturizer containing 3 ppm pal-KTTKS vs. moisturizer placebo (both containing 7% glycerin).
A 14-week, randomized, doubleblind, split-face clinical study was designed to compare both the technical and subjective efficacy of a facial moisturizer containing 3 ppm of pal-KTTKS vs. placebo moisturizer on the visual appearance of photo-aged human skin. It consisted of a two week pre-conditioning period and 12 week treatment period. Each product was tested on 92 female subjects aged 35 to 55 years old. Subjects were in general good health, with moderate to severe photo damaged facial skin and Fitzpatrick skin types I, II and III.
During the pre-conditioning period, subjects were required to use a mild facial cleanser and a UVA/UVB SPF 15 moisturizing lotion (containing zinc oxide), both provided for them, twice each day in place of their regular cleansing and moisturizing products. Subjects were instructed to refrain from using any other skin products until the study was completed. Subjects were permitted to use eye and lip makeup along with an oil-free foundation that did not contain AHA or salicylic acid. Subjects also had to refrain from exposing their face to tanning lights and excessive outdoor sunlight.
During the treatment period of the study, the panelists continued to use the cleanser daily and UV protectant as needed. During the 12-week treatment period,
Of course, there is no Fountain of Youth, but with a range of effective anti-aging ingredients to choose from, marketers can concoct a variety of skin care products to help keep skin looking younger and healthier.
Seeing is believing. During a 12-week treatment period, Sederma’s Matrixyl anti-aging ingredient has a dramatic effect on the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the eye area.
131 THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF MATRIXYL SUBSTANTIATED
the subjects were given both test products and instructed to use the product twice a day, in the morning and night, on their right or left side of their face. On Day 1 of the treatment period, and at weeks 4, 8 and 12, digital images were acquired under controlled lighting conditions and using a panelist positioning system design to allow for exact re-positioning of subjects for images at all time intervals.
These digital images were analyzed via image analysis techniques to measure fine lines and wrinkles. and skin barrier function was assessed using Dermalab TEWL instrument. The 4-, 8- and 12-week images were visually graded vs. the baseline image of each individual by expert graders for assessment of fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, the panelists completed a self assessment questionnaire regarding their skin appearance at 4-, 8-, and 12-weeks.
SummaryMatrixyl, a palmitoyl pentapeptide pal-KTTKS, is a modified chain of five amino acids developed and patented as an antiaging active ingredient by the French company Sederma SA.3 A clinical study described in this presentation validated the following benefits:
• Reduction of fine lines/wrinkles vs. placebo as measured by analysis of digital images;
• Significant reduction of visual appearance of fine lines/wrinkles at week 4 and 8 relative to placebo;
• At week 12, improvements were noted for age spots, dark circles and skin firmness
• Skin barrier was not affected as measured by TEWL.
Anti-aging benefits of Matrixyl are as effective as retinol without the accompanying skin irritation, because it does not energize inflammatory pathways as aggressively as retinol. These research conclusions shoud be a welcome news to consumers and formulators of anti-aging products.Reflecting this sentiment is Linda Wells, editor of Allure, who states that skin care has progressed radically from the days of hope in a jar. Now women are looking for products that truly change and improve skin in ways that go beyond simple moisturization. They look for ingredients by name that have been proven in clinical studies to build collagen or protect the skin cells from environmental damage.
References1. L. Robinson, N. Fitzerald, D. Doughty, N. Dawes, C. Berge, D. Bissett, (P&G,
Cincinnati, OH.)2. K. Katayama, J. ArmendarizBorunda, R. Raghow, A. Kang, M. Seyer (1993) J.Biol.
Chem. 268, 9941-9944.3. Sederma Inc., A member of the Croda International Group, Edison, NJ 08837- 3907.4. K. Lintner, C. Mas-Chamberlin, P. Mondou, Penta peptide facilitates matrix
regeneration in photo-aged skin. World Congress of Dermatology, Paris, France, July 2002.
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Chapter 39
PROMISING COSMECEUTIC
The anti-aging category certainly isn’t showing its age. Global sales of anti-aging products are expected to grow 26% from 2011-2016 to reach $28 billion, according to a study by Euromonitor International. During that time, US sales
of anti-aging products are expected to grow 46% to reach $12 billion.No wonder why supermarkets and department store shelves are crowded with
anti-aging products formulated with new cosmeceuticals, some of which make unsupported claims. Most consumers mistakenly believe that these products are regulated and tested as rigidly as drugs and that the claims made in advertisements are valid.
This column will briefly review promising cosmeceutical ingredients for which there is available clinical data that support skin appearance improvement effects. This information, hopefully, will help marketers to substantiate anti-aging claims for their new product launch in this growing category.
EfficacyEffective cosmeceutical ingredients, when added to a formula correctly, provide optimum anti-aging efficacy. Ingredients such as retinoids, antioxidants, ascorbic acid, peptides, broad-spectrum sunscreens and MMP inhibitors provide collagen-boosting and matrix protection benefits. A combination of retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids provide skin texture improvement benefits too.Skin pigmentation correction benefit is derived when retinoids are combined with l-ascorbic acid, anti-inflammatory agents, and melanogenesis inhibitors. These cosmeceuticals, alone or in combination, treat signs of aging which provide skin anti-aging benefits such as improving firmness, elasticity, tone, clarity, radiance, sensitivity and texture, while reducing redness, blotchiness, fine lines and wrinkles, dryness, dullness, spider veins, drooping neck, sagging cheeks, lip wrinkles, frown lines, crow’s feet, photo-aging, enlarged pores and age spots.
AntioxidantsThe most-widely studied antioxidants include resveratrol, ferulic acid, ergothioneine and idebenone. Resveratrol has chemo-preventative and cytostatic properties. When used topically, it provides UVB skin protection. It is effective antioxidant with strong anti-inflammatory properties.1
Ferulic acid prevents nitric oxide production and lipid peroxidation. It absorbs UV radiation. Its free-radical scavaging effects are not as potent as green tea polyphenols.2,3
133 Promising Cosmeceutic
Ergothioneine increases the protective activity of l-ascorbic acid and vitamin E. It accumulates within epidermal keratinocytes for long term protective benefits.4,5
Idebenone is an analog of coenzyme Q-10. It decreases lipid peroxidation. It inhibits UVB-induced DNA damage and erythema.6
Green tea’s antioxidant activity is due to epigalocatechin gallate (EGCG). It prevents the formation of nitric oxide, hydroxyl radicals and singlet oxygen. It induces degradation of carcinogenic cutaneous cells.7,8
Plant stem cells have antioxidant benefits. They provide protection and stimulation to epidermal stem cells.
Vitamin C reduces collagenase synthesis, as well as post-inflammatory and UVinduced erythema.
RetinoidsThis family of cosmeceuticals includes retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and vitamin A esters.Retinol and retinaldehyde provide topical benefits with reduced risk of irritation, while pure retinoic acid and retinol formulae may cause irritation.
Retinoids encourage proliferation of elastin and glycosaminoglycans. They decrease collagenase and elastase levels and reduce fine lines, roughness and dyspigmentation.9
PeptidesThese synthetic compounds contain two or more amino acids connected by peptide bonds. They perform targeted functions in the skin when applied topically. There are four main categories. Signal peptides are palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetra peptide-7 and palmitoyl tripeptide-38. They help produce collagen.
Neurotransmitter affecting peptides help relax wrinkles; e.g., acetyl hexapeptide-8 inhibits soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptors (SNARE) complex.10
Enzyme-inhibitor peptides help improve under-eye circles and hyper-pigmentation and carrier peptides. They enhance delivery of active ingredients within skin layers; e.g., copper peptide increases collagen and elastin production. The evidence to support their use is growing. Popular peptides are Matrixyl (pentapeptide-4) and Argiriline (acetylhexapeptide-8).
Skin LightenersThese botanical ingredients interfere with melanogenesis cascade, prevent the occurrence of future pigments and reduce the appearance of current skin pigmentations.
Hydroquinone is synthetically derived, but is also found in wheat, berries, coffee and tea. It increases the degradation of melanosomes, inhibits DNA and RNA synthesis and induces melanocyte-specific cytotoxicity.
Arbutin is found in blueberry leaves, wheat and pears. This potent antioxidant inhibits tyrosinase activity. It is less cytotoxic to cultured melanocytes than hydroquinone.
Kojic acid is derived from soy, rice and mushrooms. It inhibits nuclear factor-kappa B(NF-kB) activation in keratinocytes.11 Other effective skin lighteners include retinoids, lascorbic acid, lactic acid, licorice root extract, azelaic acid and phenylethyl resorcinol.
134 Promising Cosmeceutic
Hydroxy AcidsThis class of cosmeceuticals can turn dry, dull skin into smooth radiant skin more quickly than any other ingredient type. Hydroxy acids improve skin texture, skin barrier function and the appearance of photo-aged skin. However, they can cause redness, stinging, and burning in those with sensitive skin. Polyhydroxy acids or PHA are less irritating and are equally effective.Although acids work rapidly, remember that there is no quick fix when it comes to skin benefit. If you see an instant effect, most probably it is due to visual correctors in the formula that temporarily tighten, swell or irritate skin.
For real benefits to occur, skin needs a minimum of eight weeks to undergo any significant change. It is therefore important to track clinical results for at least four months. To be effective, they must first cross the epidermis, and penetrate through the dermis and the fatty layer.
References:1. J. Cos. Derm. 2008:2-72. J. of the Science of Food & Agriculture 1999:476-4803. Free Radical Research Communication 1993.241-2534. Biochemical Communications 2003:860-8645. Free Radical Medicine 2009: 46:1168-11766. J. Cos. Derm. 2005-10-177. Experimental Dermatol. 2006-678-684.8. Proceedings of NAS 2002:12455-124609. Cosm. Derm. 2005-3-510. Int. J. Cos. Sci 2002:24 :303-31011. Cosmetic Formulations of Skin Care Products.-2006:40
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Chapter 40
UNDERSTANDING THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF NUTRICOSMETIC
The latest trends in beauty, health and wellness sectors are giving rise to a new realm of possibilities by fusing anti-aging cosmeceuticals with nutraceuticals and resulting in nutricosmetics. In this sense, a cosmeceutical is an ingestible
ingredient for functional foods or nutritional supplements that has cosmetic benefits. This contrasts with the cosmetics definition, which is based on the topical nature of the ingredient. Hence nutricosmetics, beauty foods, beauty supplements and beauty from within are synonymous terms. This column will briefly examine anti-aging benefits of nutricosmetics.
CategoriesNutricosmetics: These ingestible products are developed and marketed specifically for beauty purposes. Nutricosmetics first gained popularity in Asia and Europe. Both traditional and Eastern medicines have used nutrition as a way to promote optimal health and beauty. According to Euromonitor, sales of nutricosmetics will reach $209 million by 2017. Trends that are fueling this growth are aging population, environmental factors, consumer awareness, aversion to invasive procedures and the rise of holistic spa-yoga centers.
Phytocompounds: Eating certain foods dramatically improves the appearance of your skin, hair and nails. These compounds undergo chemical changes in body to promote good health. They stimulate DNA repair, reduce inflammation and increase collagen production. They are classified into terpenes (carotenes, limonoids and saponin).
Organosulfur compounds: Organosulfur compounds are found in onions, garlic, cabbage, brussels sprouts and broccoli (which contain indoles, thiosulfonates, isothiocyanates) and phenols such as polyphenols and isoflavones.1 All have a strong odor due to the presence of sulfur.
Green foods have chlorophyll, isothiocynates, lutein and zeaxanthin antioxidants. They may reduce the risk of macular degeneration that causes blindness.
Yellow foods such as carrots, squash, tomatoes and oranges contain terpenes. They help heal wounds and are powerful antioxidants.
Orange foods have beta carotene, which improves immunity and oral health.
136 UNDERSTANDING THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF NUTRICOSMETIC
Purple foods such as blueberries, cherries, beets, purple grapes, eggplants, plums, purple figs, black currant and purple cabbage are nature’s best weapon in the battle against aging and prevent collagen breakdown.
Red foods contain powerful antiaging active lycopene and ellagic acid, which help reduce DNA damage.
White foods contain allicin and quercetin. They improve immune function. Cauliflower contains cancer-fighting sulforphane.
Efficacy ClaimsBeauty foods, supplements and the science backing them are still evolving along with the nutricosmetic category. Regulators want to ensure that the products are backed by science and make claims that are not misleading. For this reason, uncertainty and ambiguity still clouds this category.
In the US, regulatory policy is shared between Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). For example, recently the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureau, recommended Irwin Naturals’ dietary supplement, discontinue the claim: “Doctor Developed Clear Pure Complexion.”
According to NAD, the claim was not supported. Elsewhere, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) health claim panel recently rejected claims made by Inneov. The panel found that clinical studies were conducted on the individual ingredients, but not on the entire final product formula.
Japan remains the biggest nutraceutical market, and its FOSHU (Foods For Specified Health Issues) regulatory laws are very strict. Therefore it is very common to find product labels only list “active” ingredients such as collagen, lycopene and coenzyme Q-10 without making specific skin, nail, health and appearance claims.
Purple foods, such as plums, prevent collagen breakdown.
137 UNDERSTANDING THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF NUTRICOSMETIC
BenefitsNutritionists and doctors advocate that foods provide the best sources of antioxidants and vitamins. When malnourished, the skin becomes gray, scaly, uneven and patchy. We all know that some skin and hair problems are directly linked to vitamin deficiency. For example, vitamin A deficiency results in dry skin, dry hair and fragile fingernails.
Overall key beauty benefits are antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Specific benefits occur for skin, hair and nails. Skin benefits include repair and prevention, photo-protection, firmness, pigmentation control, whitening and slimming. Hair benefits include retention and growth, restoration, nourishment and volumizing. For nails, the key benefit is strengthening. Overall nutraceutical ingredients are safe and ingestible when derived from food.
Nutricosmetics differ from dietary supplements, which are usually taken for medical/health benefi ts. Nutricosmetics are foods or supplements that are specifically consumed to produce an appearance benefi t, most notably for anti-aging effects and fi ghting the toxic effects of free radicals.
Tomatoes contain active lycopene and ellagic acid, which help reduce DNA damage.
138 UNDERSTANDING THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF NUTRICOSMETIC
DermatologistsNutricosmetics were fi rst introduced in skin care routines by innovative dermatologists such as Nicholas V. Perricone, MD and Fredric Brandt, MD. Improving your eating habits is not going to eliminate wrinkles or sagging, but research shows that proper nutrition will improve the tone and texture of your skin according to Mary Lupo MD, clinical professor of dermatology at Tulane University, School of Medicine. According to Perricone, numerous scientifi c studies from around the world show that carotene supplementation, especially lycopene and beta carotene, improve skin structure, have powerful woundhealing properties and offer great protection from damage caused by sunlight.
According to Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, anything edible that is “good for you” can be considered a nutraceutical (Dermatological Times). Nutricosmetics represent the newest category in the anti-aging market, combining cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals.
Jessica Wu, MD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Southern California, contends that certain supplements, such as fi sh oil, may improve the quality of your skin, but there is no FDA oversight of them, so it is hard to know how much of the nutrient is actually being absorbed by your body and is affecting your complexion.
ConclusionsOral and topical nutricosmetics obviously improve both body and skin health. An internal approach to beauty and wellness is the future of beauty, but the category is still in infancy in the US. Some of the reasons for this, according to Kline and Company are the fact that consumers are more skeptical of the “beauty-from-within” philosophy.
Moreover, Americans are less patient and generally less health conscious than their European and Japanese counterparts; they expect instant results and they demand scientifi c proof of benefi ts. In addition, this category lacks a clear distribution channel, many consumers prefer not to buy ingestible products from cosmetic brands, and lastly, the pharmacies do not have same infl uence in US as they do in Europe. Because of these drawbacks, many top brands entered the market and exited after disappointing sales.
Although the category is expected to remain a niche opportunity, it offers an opportunity for food, beverage and supplement manufacturers more so than cosmetic companies.
Reference1. Isabele Roces, P. Daily Inquire News 3/12/2010
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Chapter 41
THE ANTI-AGING POWER OF TOPICAL VITAMIN
The arrival of a new year can be such a motivating event to make improvements in one’s life. If it’s February, most folks have already forgotten the resolution they made on January 1. But no matter what the calendar reads, it is always
a good time to take care of your skin. It is clinically proven that topically applied vitamins are well absorbed through the skin. This column will briefly describe the benefits of using daily skin care products formulated with anti-aging vitamins such as vitamins A, B, C, E and K, and co-enzyme Q-10.
These six vitamins are the most frequently used for healthy skin. Using them regularly is a sure way to prevent skin damage, before it even begins. Baby Boomers continue to seek new and effective ways to slow down the passage of time and this is reflected in the Euromonitor International market research study that predicts the skin care products market will reach $91 billion this year.
Vitamin A: The term “retinoids” refers to vitamin A and all of its natural and synthetic derivatives. Retinoids influence the function of a cell by altering the gene expression pattern. Some of their biologic effects include regulating growth and differentiation of epithelial cells; decreasing inflammation; enhancing the immune system; improving acne, photoaging, psoriasis and skin discoloration; reversing sun damage; and inhibiting collagen and elastin breakdown. A very low level, 0.05%, of retinol provides efficacy by its conversion to intermediate retinaldehyde to retinoic acid that actually is the endogenous active form.
Vitamin B (vitamin B3, niacinamide and nicotinamide): easily penetrates the stratum corneum, providing a variety of beneficial effects to skin such as improvement of dry skin, elasticity, texture and color, decrease in age spots, evening out of overall skin tone, skin-barrier enhancement, moisturization, improvement of lipid barrier component of the epidermis.
As a result, there is a reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebaceous lipid excretion and pore size, leading to an overall improvement in skin appearance. Clinical research study results have shown a significant reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, hyper-pigmented spots, red blotchiness and skin sallowness.1,2 Usually 2-5% vitamin B has been used in topical formulations to achieve these effects. Vitamin B reduces the appearance of wrinkles.
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Vitamin C (L- ascorbic acid): fights off free radicals, slows down the aging process and even reverses the signs of aging. Many anti-aging products containing vitamin C are not effective on the skin because of several reasons:
• The concentration of L-ascorbic acid could be too low;• Exposure of the product to air and light compromising the stability of the
product; or• The L-ascorbic acid is in the form of an ester or a mixture of isomers, which
cannot be absorbed or metabolized effectively by the skin.In high enough concentration (at least 10%) of the non-esterified, optimal isomer
vitamin C inhibits UV damage. It is important to know that stabilizing ascorbic acid presents challenges. However, a formulation that has an acid pH of approximately 3.5 may optimize vitamin C absorption. Clinical studies support the use of topical vitamin C to improve fine lines and reduce both pigmentation and inflammation.3
In another clinical research study, vitamin C is formulated with potent antioxidant ferulic acid and vitamin E. This stabilizes the formula and doubles the photoprotection from four- to eight-fold. This combination of actives is featured in Skinceuticals’ CE Ferulic, which contains 15% vitamin C, 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid.4
Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol): an excellent moisturizer and an emollient. It inhibits the acute UV damage of erythema, sunburn and tanning as well as chronic UV photo-aging and skin cancer.5 It protects cells from oxidative stress and is primarily used for the treatment of minor burns, surgical scars and wounds.
Vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E when they are used together in the formulation. This combination in a formulation is synergistic, particularly with regard to UV protection. Usually topical preparations contain vitamin E in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 20%. Because there is no dose-response relationship information available, there is no way of knowing how much vitamin E concentration is required to achieve clinical efficacy. Side effects of topical preparations in some consumers include irritant allergic contact dermatitis.
Vitamin K: There are several forms of vitamin K. There is no information available on its oxidative stability. Under-eye dark circles are visible because of leaking capillaries under the skin. This is visible because undereye skin is very thin. Vitamin K is believed to actually constrict capillaries under the skin. However, there is no information available on controlled studies to support this observation.
Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone, or CoQ10): This lipid soluble antioxidant is present in the mitochondria of all living cells and is utilized in the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate. A prolonged oral supplementation of CoQ10 in humans has shown to reduce crow’s feet wrinkle formation. Ubiquinone significantly suppresses the expression of collagenase in human dermal fibroblasts following UVA irradiation.6
Another study showed that ubiquinone inhibits oxidative stress in the skin induced by UVB.7 An effective antioxidant, it protects skin from intrinsic and extrinsic aging.8
Cosmetic brands such as Nivea and Eucerin are formulated with coenzyme Q10. A decreased wrinkle depth was documented by optical profilometry using 0.3% ubiquinone cream for six months.9 A low molecular weight synthetic analog of coenzyme Q10 with superior skin penetrating properties is called idebenone. Skin care products containing idebenone are available as Prevage MD by Allergan. Prevage Eye Anti-aging Moisturizer is available from Elizabeth Arden and Allergan companies.
Clearly, there is significant data confirming the anti-aging benefits of topically applied vitamins. In a market dominated by older consumers with busy lifestyles and abundant leisure time, it is hard to accomplish all health goals. However, a strict
141 THE ANTI-AGING POWER OF TOPICAL VITAMIN
adherence to a disciplined use of anti-aging products could protect the skin from future damage.
References:1. Bissett et al., Int. J. Cosmet. Sci 26(5): 231-8 (2004 Oct.)2. Bissett et al., Dermatol. Surg. 31 (7 Pt 2): 860-5 (2005 July)3. Gasper LR et al. Int. J. Pharm. 343(1-2): 181-9 (2007 Oct.)4. Lin FH et al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 125, 826-325. Burke KE; Dermatol. Ther. 20 (5): 314-21 (2007 Sept-Oct.)6. Choi CM, Barson DS. Semin. Cutan Med surg 25(3): 163-8 (2006 Sept.)7. Burke KE, Cosmeceuticals, Elsevier Saunders pp 125-32 (2005)8. Bissett D, et al. 64th Annual Meeting AAD, San Francisco, CA. March 3-7, 2006,
poster p2359. Eucerin Q10 Product Compendium, Wilton, CT: Beiersdorf Inc. p11
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Chapter 42
UNDERSTANDING THE ANTI-AGING POWER OF PEPTIDES
GROWTH IN THE skin care market is driven by innovative specialty actives and delivery systems. Choosing the right anti-aging ingredients is crucial for success. While many consumers are willing to pay a premium to stave off
the signs of aging, a proven track record of scientific efficacy remains the key selling point in this segment.
Astute ingredient suppliers understand that active skin ingredients with clinically demonstrated efficacy are the stars of the personal care ingredient market. According to Euromonitor, overall volume sales of active skin ingredients posted a compound annual growth rate of 5% during 2004-2009 and are projected to grow 3% annually from 2009-2014. This is almost double the growth rate forecast for all personal care ingredients. Therefore, it is no surprise to see ingredient suppliers dedicating hefty R&D budgets to the exploration of new actives.
Facial skin care is one of the fastest growing sectors in the US toiletries and cosmetics market. Some of the most promising anti-wrinkle, anti-aging products contain peptides. This column will briefly review the anti-aging power of peptides.
Repairing Peptides: Dipeptide-2 and tetrapeptide-7 peptides both have demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties and hence may offer beneficial applications for post-procedure treatments and may aid in repairing skin barrier dysfunction. While these peptides soothe inflammation, copper peptides such as GHK peptides made by ProCyte, for use in the company’s Neova line, work by repairing skin injury caused by either wound or photodamage.
Relaxing Peptides: These peptides have an effect on the neurotransmitters that control the communication between the nerves and the muscles that cause expression-related wrinkles. Peptides like acetyl hexapeptide-3, also known by the trade name Argireline, relax the muscles and produce a Botox-like effect. Hexapeptides are known as wrinkle-relaxing peptides.
Firming Peptides: Tetra and penta peptides are face-firming peptides. They stimulate the skin’s natural production of collagen to help restore the structure of the skin and smooth wrinkles. Their benefits are comparable to the benefits provided by retinoids minus their chemical instability and irritation.
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Some Key PeptidesPeptides are bio-safe treatment ingredients with anti-wrinkle properties.The first peptide, Matrixyl (also known as pal-KTTKS), was developed and launched by Sederma, a division of Croda. In clinical studies it was shown to increase the synthesis of collagen I, collagen III and fibronectin. Copper peptide and the lipo-peptide (Matrixyl) are both used to stimulate collagen production and promote elasticity. Another category of peptides that modulate function at the neuromuscular junction is Myoxinol (Cognis) and Argireline (Centerchem). More recently, Merck launched the first of a new peptide generation, RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5. It reinforces the extracellular matrix resulting in firm, youthful skin.
EfficacyAdvancing age leads to decreased synthesis of matrix molecules such as collagen, elastin, fibronectin and glucosaminoglycans. Thinning skin leads to drying out and the disruption and weakening of the epidermal junction, which leads to wrinkle formation. Wrinkles truly are“skin deep;”i.e., they do not exist beyond the dermis and epidermal dermal junction. As we grow older, collagen production slows, resulting in a loss of skin elasticity and a decrease in the skin’s ability to hold moisture as the collagenelastin network weakens over time.
The primary function of most peptides is a signaling one. They bring a biochemical “message” and incite an action. Peptides trick older skin into producing collagen along with hyaluronic acid, a key factor in retaining moisture in the skin, which results in a plumping effect and a smoother, softer and younger looking complexion. Peptides’anti-aging benefits derive from its many forms such as tri, tetra, penta and hexa. Peptides act as messengers in the skin, providing signals to cells to regenerate. Some peptides stimulate new collagen formation while others prevent the breakdown of existing collagen.
Overall, peptides help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles along with skin’s texture and tone. Different peptides have different functions. Since peptides are derived from protein building blocks, they are easily utilized and subsequently absorbed by the skin on many levels making them very effective skin care actives. Peptides in skin care mimic peptides produced by cells. This process slows down or reverses biological elements of aging and other skin conditions. The most important characteristic of a peptide, besides its size, is the precise order in which the various amino acids are linked together. Small peptide molecules easily penetrate the top layer of the skin to repair fine lines and wrinkles caused by sun damage. Topical collagen and elastin creams, on the other hand, have difficulty targeting collagen-producing cells to trigger regeneration in the bottom-up mode.
Many peptides, however, are incapable of penetrating through the stratum corneum, and thus are not able to exert their function. Gly-His-Lys peptide, being highly water soluble and also charged with ions, will stay at the skin surface and remain inactive. Chemical derivation such as palmitoylation (attachment of fatty acid) however, allows the peptide to reach the epidermis and even dermis.1
ClaimsTrue proof of the peptide efficacy comes from appropriate clinical studies. Antiaging finished products do not base their various claims on a specific ingredient. It is the entire composition as commercialized that produces the desired effect on skin or hair. In this way, peptides are not directly linked to the final claims. Advertised claims and their exact wording are critically important, so that peptide products are
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not considered drugs, which would need regulatory approval—a filing process that involves costly and time-consuming new drug applications.
ConclusionPeptides are the leading technology for skin care being marketed today. All skin types tolerate them and they have better pH stability, broader application and biological activity. This is because peptides speak the language of the cells.There is some controversy over which peptides actually penetrate the skin. Pentapeptides such as Argireline and Matrixyl are by far the most effective in making skin look plump and youthful. New peptides with new activity are researched continuously, and are reported in the literature. The market is full of a variety of cosmetic products touting peptide’s antiaging benefits. There does seem to be science that shows that peptides have the potential to improve the appearance of aging skin. Most peptide products are reported to be safe with no side effects.
Reference:1. Lintner K et al. Int. J. Cosm. Sci. 22, 207- 218.
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Chapter 43
THERE ARE NO NEGATIVES REGARDING ANTIOXIDANTS
ANTIOXIDANTS are widely used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation. When added to a formula, they ensure that all kinds of personal care products reach consumers in excellent condition and stay that way even after months
of use. Oxidation occurs when fats or oils react with oxygen. An oxidized product usually breaks down, develops a rancid odor and discolors. Common antioxidant preservatives include butylated hydroxyl toluene (BHT), butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), tertiary butyl hydroquinone (TBHQ) and propyl gallate (PG). All are used at very low level, are very safe and effective. But today, in addition to their preservation benefits, antioxidants are recognized for protecting the skin. Accordingly, cosmetic products formulated with well-recognized antioxidants such as vitamin E, co-enzyme Q-10, ascorbic acid, alpha lipoic acid and soy isoflavones have appeared in the market.1 Consumers may not understand how antioxidants work, but they consume multivitamin supplements and apply antioxidant-based cosmetics every day.
Oxidation BasicsOxidation involves the donation of electrons by complete transfer from one molecule (donor) to another (receptor). The donor molecule is oxidized while the receptor is reduced. Oxygen radicals belong to a family of molecules known as the reactive oxygen species (ROS), which is widely thought to cause wrinkles, age spots, dryness, acne, cellulite and skin cancer. Electrons prefer to travel in pairs, but when there is one electron by itself, it immediately seeks a new electron to pair itself with by robbing one from another healthy molecule, thus creating singlet electrons and new free radicals. A chain reaction of oxidation is set in motion. Unless this chain stopped by the action of an antioxidant, basically an electron donor or receiver that gets electrons paired-up again, cell damage could occur. Damage is miniscule, but it is cumulative over time.
Antioxidants (Topical)Antioxidants neutralize the free radicals that occur naturally on the skin. They can reduce sun damage and skin aging. Antioxidants in other words, are those substances that interfere with oxidation either by blocking or reversing the action.
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Antioxidants include vitamins A, C, D and E, alpha lipoic acid, co-enzymeQ10, genistein and green tea. Alpha lipoic acid is considered a universal antioxidant because it is soluble in both aqueous and lipid environments and can interact with both antioxidants and oxidants present in various cell compartments. It boosts levels of glutathione in all cells and improves antioxidant functionality of vitamin C, vitamin E and co-enzyme Q-10. It is known to strengthen the entire antioxidant network and rapidly penetrates human skin. It is a very potent antioxidant. Although it is produced by the body its production declines with age. It helps prevent cataracts, strokes, heart diseases and it is an antidote for mushroom poisoning. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory agent and is very helpful in the treatment of aging skin. Vitamin E: It is considered an antioxidant superstar. It is lipid soluble and has eight different forms. It is the anti-aging antioxidant, helpful via both oral and topical route. It has skin emollient and moisturizing properties. It helps control oxidative stress in the body. It helps heal arthritis and reduces inflammation. Vitamin C is called the hub of antioxidants. It is central to linking fat-soluble antioxidants to water-soluble ones. Its benefits are provided by both oral and topical route. It reduces the risk of heart diseases and cancer. It maintains a well- functioning immune system, may reduce the severity and length of a cold and minimizes the presence of viruses in the body. It boosts collagen production, making it essential for great skin and a healthy complexion. It protects against photodamage and is stimulant to wound healing.Co-enzyme Q-10 is present in virtually all living cells. It is both an energy generator and a fat-soluble antioxidant, and provides protection against both intrinsic and extrinsic aging. It regenerates vitamin E, a coenzyme that works with an enzyme to produce chemical changes in the body.
Genistein is an isoflavone from soy, with potent antioxidant properties, protecting against lipid peroxidation and UV damage.
Several studies support green tea’s potent antioxidant and anticarcinogenic properties. Other key antioxidants include beta carotene, plant extract of ginkgo biloba, centella asiatica, ginseng, rosemary, juniper, horse chestnut, phytic acid, and iron chelators.
Antioxidants (Botanical)Phytochemicals in chamomile, mustard, rosemary and turmeric may have a phase II boosting effect. EGCG (tea) neutralizes more than 70% of lipid peroxide, the free radical that destroys skin’s barrier properties. Cranberry oil protects skin’s barrier from free radical attack and oxidation. It also protects cell membranes, keeping them fluid and youthful by forming an antioxidant reservoir for long-lasting protection.
Thermus thermophilus, available from Sederma, is heat activated and stimulates the body’s natural enzymatic antioxidants during heat exposure. It repairs and protects against UVA damage. Dietary antioxidants such as vitamins and plant nutrients such as carotenoids are thought to significantly contribute to the antioxidant defense system; all are predominantly found in fruits and vegetables.2 Excellent botanical sources of antioxidants include berries, pomegranate, ginger, grapes, orange, plum, pineapple, lemon, dates, kiwi and grapefruit; legumes such as broad beans, pinto beans and soybeans. nuts, seeds and dry fruits such as walnuts, sunflower seeds, apricots and prunes; vegetables such as kale, chili pepper, red cabbage, peppers, parsley, artichoke, Brussel sprouts and spinach; and cereals such as barley, millet and oats; and finally, roots and tubers such as ginger and red beet. Grapeseed extract, pycnogenol and green tea extract all contain polyphenols, which are not only powerful antioxidants, but are complimentary in enhancing the effects of other antioxidants. Protection is accomplished via free radical scavengers and endogenous
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enzymatic protection. Free radical scavengers directly bind to free radicals and thus inactivate them. For example, alpha tocopherol works by scavenging lipid peroxyl and hydroxyl radicals. Ascorbates or vitamin C work as a synergist to vitamin E and scavanges hydroxyl radicals. Ubiquinol-10 interrupts the chain at mitochondrial level of the cell. Beta carotene provides benefits by scavenging hydroxyl radicals.
Enzymatic protection enzymes support production of body’s own natural antioxidants by assisting cells in their production of antioxidant enzymes. This process is called endogenous antioxidants. These enzymes are made by the cells as and when they are needed during times of oxidative stress, and they optimize the body’s own natural antioxidant defense system. They primarily trigger activity of phase II enzymes (detoxifying enzymes), they recycle free radical scavenger antioxidants and contribute chemical reactants needed by the body to make cellular antioxidant enzymes.
Superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase are the three antioxidant enzymes responsible for providing protection against free radical damage. Superoxide dismutase functions by trapping superoxide radicals. It exists in the body in two basic classes, copper/zinc superoxide dismutase is found in the cell cytoplasam, and manganese superoxide dismutase is found in the mitochondria.
Catalase exists throughout all body tissues and it provides benefits by detoxifying hydrogen peroxide. Glutathione peroxidase imparts its benefits by detoxifying lipid peroxidase and hydrogen peroxide. It uses selenium as its metal center and is found in the blood or the cell membranes. Antioxidant enzymes optimize the body’s natural cellular antioxidant defense system and deliver a long duration skin protection from reactive oxygen species (ROS). Skin derives antioxidant benefits both by free radical scavengers and antioxidant enzymes.
Free Radicals and AgingFree radicals are a by-product of the body’s natural function. If left unchecked they cause harmful oxidation that can lead to cancer and heart disease. Oxidation caused by free radicals in the body can best be compared to the rusting of metal which is known as oxidation. Researchers, who are studying age-related diseases, agree that excess free radicals are a major factor in the aging process. They are also responsible for the development of killer diseases such as heart, cancer and Alzheimer’s diseases. A free radical is any substance that contains an unpaired electron. They are highly unstable and react with other molecules. A free radical scavenger is any substance that terminates or blocks the free radical chain reaction. They either donate an electron to the free radical or absorb the extra electron to make the molecule stable.
Free radical scavengers are called antioxidants. If however the level of antioxidants is not enough or if the free radical damage is excessive, damage to the cells and tissue could result. When the body does not get enough antioxidant protection, either from the body’s production, from the dietary sources or from the topical products, the free radical damage continues, causing cell damage and resulting in their poor performance. This lack of antioxidant reserve leads to skin damage, which is manifested visually in the form of superficial lines, wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation and inflammation, correspondingly causing within skin, cross-linking of collagen and elastin, damage to the DNA resulting in cell deterioration.
There are many types of free radicals, the most common is reactive oxygen species that include hydroxyl anions, hydrogen peroxide, super oxides, and singlet oxygen. Studies have shown that reactive oxygen causes UV-induced damage to the skin. Oxygen free radicals cause lipid peroxidation, resulting in damage to cell membranes
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that can cause premature aging and eventual cell death. Most researchers think ROS cause acne, wrinkles, skin age spots, sagging, dryness and cancer.
Environmental toxins and pollutants are all around us and their levels are increasing. Although the body is naturally equipped to fight off these free radicals, they can still contribute to inflammation and premature skin aging. Free radicals may be the result of diet, smoking, stress, aerobic exercise, inflammation, exposure to sunlight and air pollutants, and natural biological processes. It is medically recognized that degenerative skin conditions such as wrinkles and skin discolorations are caused primarily by free-radical damage.3 The primary causes of this damage are air and sunlight, but it can also be triggered by cigarette smoke, herbicides, pesticides, pollution and solvents. Antioxidants can reduce and potentially neutralize the rampage of free-radical damage.4
Topical BenefitsTopically-applied antioxidants help reduce damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, including erythema and cell damage. They induce the generation of glycosaminoglycans, reduce wrinkling and hyperplasia, and inhibit lipid peroxide formation. They also have anti-inflammatory properties and accelerate wound healing, stimulate collagen synthesis and enhance the immune system. Some antioxidants, such as vitamin C and E, reportedly deliver additional benefits of enhancing immune function, accelerating wound healing,5 boosting antiinflammatory action, reversing photodamage and stimulating collagen synthesis.6
Effective SkinCare Products Consumers get superior benefits from using products that are antioxidant dense and are used for protecting and repairing skin damage, because they work better when applied topically than when ingested. A study reported in Skin and Allergy News, confirm that antioxidants added to sunscreens provided greater protection from solar radiation, inhibited more lines and wrinkles and maintained greater skin elasticity and thickness than sunscreens without antioxidants.
It is FDA’s position that, while antioxidants may be beneficial, there is no guarantee that the use level is high enough to impact the skin. In fact, antioxidants may have been included merely to retard spoilage. In addition, vitamins C and E are large molecules that are difficult to getting through the epidermis. Even if they do penetrate, there is no hard proof that antioxidants have any effect.
Still, the science of skin-aging process is advancing at an accelerated pace. Some cosmetic ingredients do indeed get through the skin, and may deliver drug-like benefits. So even if antioxidant potions are changing the way cells function—there is no solid proof that they are—the FDA does not allow such claims.7
ConclusionAntioxidants provide a variety of benefits. They stop free-radical damage in our bodies. These molecules are linked to host of detrimental effects from illnesses to premature aging. Antioxidants help these toxins out of our bodies because as they accumulate, they produce an unwanted synergy of damage to the brain, lungs, livers and the entire body.
Antioxidants in the skin produce many benefits such as reduce or eliminate erythema or redness of skin, soothe skin irritation, reduce the signs of wrinkles, lighten age spots or uneven skin pigmentation, moisturize and soften dry, rough skin, also fight signs of acne and cellulite. Antioxidant enzymes optimize the body’s natural cellular antioxidant defense system and deliver skin protection from
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reactive oxygen species (ROS). Skin derives antioxidant benefits both by free radical scavengers and antioxidant enzymes and protects skin from the damaging effects of ROS. Free radical damage is constant and extensive, but at this time no one is certain what level of antioxidants are needed in the skin care formulations and how long they do last.
References1. B. J. Salsbury, HAPPI, Jan., 2001, p. 752. S.J. Duthi et al. “Antioxidant supplementation human lymphocytes.” Cancer4. Journal of Clinical Pathology, March 2001, Vol.18, number 9, pages, 685-716.5. Darr, D., Combs et al. “Topical vitamin C protects porcine skin from UV radiation
induced damage,” J. Derm. 127:247- 253, 1992.6. Djerassi, D., Machlin and Noka, “Vitamin E biochemical function and its role in
cosmetics,” Drug & Cosmetic Industry, March, 1986.7. New York Times magazine, December 5, 1995.
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Chapter 44
DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN?
STEM CELLS, though controversial, often play a key role in drug research. Now these materials are finding new applications in skin care, and stem cells are the latest buzzword in the anti-aging category. Yet scientific opinion remains
divided on their origin. One opinion is that stem cells arise when sperm fertilizes an egg, while the other is that they originate in the inner cell mass of the blastocyst. Stem cells have the ability to go through numerous cycles and cell divisions while maintaining their undifferentiated state. They also have the capacity to differentiate into other cell types such as muscle, blood and nerve tissue.
Adult stem cells reorganize, heal and repopulate the skin with new cells. They arise from the basal layer of the epidermis and at the hair follicle base. Adult stem cells, as opposed to embryonic stem cells, repair and regenerate damaged tissues. Theoretically they possess the ability to create new skin cells and regenerate the skin for a lifetime, but age and environmental factors cause them to function less efficiently, resulting in olderlooking, aged skin. Stem cell-based creams reportedly stave-off this process by either stimulating or protecting stem cells deep in the basal layer of the epidermis.
Stem cells divide relatively infrequently. With age, stem cells lose their proliferative capacity and perhaps their ability to respond to signals to produce more epithelial cells, according to R. Ghadially, a dermatologist and skin stem cell specialist at the University of California at San Franciscco’s Institute for Regenerative Medicine. Increasing proliferation is the ultimate complexion rejuvenator.
Stem Cells in SkinEpithelial skin stem cells are found in the basal layer of the epidermis, while hair bulge stem cells are found in hair follicles. Furthermore, hair follicular stem cells, tooth stem cells and skin stem cells all show therapeutic promise and may one day restore hair to bald men, teeth to those in need and skin to scarred patients, according to Dr. Denis English, editor of Journal of Stem Cells and director of cell biology at the University of South Florida.
151 DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN?
Changes in the skin are caused by aging, disease or injuries. Although drugs can relieve consequences of the disease, they will not suppress the cause. Therefore, the most attractive strategy is to replace disabled cells, and to this end, to take advantage of stem cells.1 According to Gregory Brown, creator of ReVive, accessibility also makes skin stem cells appealing to cosmetic chemists. Stem cells are readily available in hair follicles and sweat glands. The ratio of stem cells to regular cells in skin is still hotly debated. It was once thought to be 1 in 10, but is now suspected to be more like 1 in 10,000.
Stem Cells and AgingStem cells have a limited life expectancy because UV, smoking and ozone all hasten skin cell depletion, resulting in DNA damage, telomere shortening and oxidative stress. Cell depletion does not activate stem cells to change into new cells. Aging stem cells lead to a decreased capacity for repair, an increased incidence of degenerative diseases and an increased incidence of cancer in tissues that contain stem cells. Skin rejuvenation comes to a halt when stem cells remain inactive. Under the right stimulus, stem cell activity could be jump-started to initiate skin rejuvenation.
Stem cells have unique secondary structures of DNA and RNA. Stem cells have special components in the cytosol-epigenetic factors. Stem cells are sensitive to environmental stress factors and hence protection and maintenance of stem cells is of great importance. Epigenetic profiles regulate the gene expression in stem cells, which enable cells to stabilize and maintain different characteristics despite containing the same genomic material. This is achieved by chromatin remodeling by DNA methylation (gene silencing), post-translational modification of histone proteins (e.g., acetylation for transcriptional competence) or mRNA inactivation through micro RNAs or small interfering RNA (siRNA).
High-Priced ProductsMarketers are presenting stem cell creams as the future of skin care. This article will review major stem cell-based anti-aging consumer products and the science surrounding stem cell technology.
Amatokin is available from Voss Laboratories in collaboration with Beilis Development Company. It has a hefty price tag of 190 euros or $258 per 30ml. Less
expensive is Christian Dior’s Capture R 60/80 XP cream, which still costs more than $100 for 30ml. StimulCell from N.V. Perricone retails for $155 for 1.7fl.oz. Another product based on cellular tune-up action that is similar to stem cell is Estée Lauder’s Re-Nutriv, which costs approximately $130. But the costliest product is ReVive’s Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit. It comes in a lucite cube that houses four small silver tubes. A one month supply of this super serum costs $1,500…can you believe it? The company insists that the high cost is because of a telomerase which is a bio-engineered enzyme costing about $4 million per gram.
Voss’ Amatokin
Estee Lauder’s Re-Nutriv creme does not contain stem cells, but its formula provides many of the same benefits.
152 DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN?
Actives and ClaimsAlthough all of these products make similar claims, their backgrounds are quite different. For example, Amatokin got its start in 1988 when Russian scientist Taras Nikolaev from the Biotechnical Institute in Moscow and St. Petersburg studied peptide research to accelerate wound healing and skin repair. His team created a polypeptide with the ability to stimulate dormant stem cells in the skin, rejuvenate the skin and speed healing—truly a bold, astonishing claim. Amatokin is the first topical polypeptide that lights up stem cell markers (the means by which cell activity is measured). The polypeptide acts as a catalyst when it comes into contact with the upper keratinocyte cells of the epidermis, initiating a molecular signaling cascade that produces the increase in activity which was measured by the stem cell markers.2
In the case of StimulCell, young, undamaged cells were created by applying chemically reproducible oxidative stress to stem cells, which forces them to pump out 145 different proteins, carbohydrates and lipids. These materials are protect cells and relay regenerating messages, according to Dr. Perricone.
For Dior Capture R 60/80 XP crème, the active is a vitamin E derivative called alpha-tocopheryl phosphate, which creates a protective shield. ReVive Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit has an enzyme active called telomerase, which was first discovered in 1984, according to Bays Brown, the brand’s founder. Finally, Re-Nutriv contains a stabilized version of reservatrol, an antioxidant produced by some plants to ward-off fungi and bacteria.
Amatokin initiates the release of very powerful growth factors responsible for cell proliferation, according to Louie Rinaldi of Voss Laboratories.
According to R. Ghadially a dermatologist and skin stem cell specialist at the University of California at San Francisco’s Institute for Regeneration Medicine, this product increased the expression of certain stem cell markers. We only know what those markers indicate in embryonic cells. It has not been proven that they have the same correlation in adult cells. It is very promising, but more work needs to be done. His lab is conducting independent research on whether the markers in question do in fact indicate the presence of adult stem cells.3
How it WorksAmatokin highlights the expression of stem cell markers in the skin to reduce the appearance of serious wrinkles. It focuses on using polypeptides and enzymes to “awaken” the body’s own reservoir of stem cells. We only know what those markers indicate in embryonic cells. There is no proof that the same holds true in adult cells. While very promising, more work needs to be done.
StimulCell contains cell-protecting and regenerating messengers. When the product is applied topically, these messengers reportedly attach to skin cells, signaling them to begin the reparative process. In one study, Dr. Perricone’s product
reduced acne, skin damage and wrinkles using the cell’s own messengers. A cell is carefully guided toward rejuvenation.
In an in-vitro study by Dior, the alpha-tocopheryl phosphate in Capture R60/80 XP reduced the number of stem cells lost in the epidermis after sun exposure. The company recruited 30 women scheduled for facelifts and asked them to use the cream on one cheek
ReVive Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit’s efficacy is due to the telomerase enzyme.
153 DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN?
for two months before surgery. The treated skin showed 19% more epidermal cells. Rather than purporting to stimulate stem cells, this product makes rather modest claims that it protects and prolongs the functioning of the stem cells. The company asserts that the product’s effectiveness is due to Stemsome, a sophisticated delivery system that transports ingredients into the skin. The system envelops each active ingredient in multi-stacked layers, which progressively melt as they are absorbed by the skin, releasing the active ingredient. According to Edouard Mauvais-Jarvis, director of scientific communications, each time a layer melts, the next one opens, enabling the ingredients to reach their target deep within the skin. This technology doesn’t enhance the cells in any way, it merely creates a more beneficial environment to allow the stem cells to play their optimum role in regulating the skin.
ReVive Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit’s efficacy is due to telomerase, an enzyme that aids DNA replication to prevent chromosomal strands from losing bits of information when they split, thus warding off genetic mutations. When applied topically, it can also send a signal to stem cells, rallying them to respond as they would to an injury. Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), a protein found naturally in the human body that is released from the cells after injury to increase cell turnover, does accomplish regeneration of aging skin. The product does not alter the body’s natural functions nor changes skin in any abnormal way. It does not add or inject stem cells into the skin. It merely stimulates and accelerates a natural process. It purports to convert resting adult stem cells to newly minted skin cells.
The active in ReNutriv, reservatrol, extends the life of cells, actually slowing down turnover rather than speeding it up—possibly the best way to ward-off cell breakdown.
DiscussionSome observers complain that Amatokin, and any other ingredient that causes cells to multiply, could cause cancer due to cell division.
“You don’t want a signal that just says: ‘turn on’ to stem cell activity. That’s like a car that just has a gas pedal—it could be dangerous, resulting in overproduction, potentially even cancer,” agreed Dr. Perricone. “You want cells that turn on, cells that moderate, cells that suppress activity, cells that steer.”
However such fears are dismissed2 because you are stimulating adult stem cells which start as pristine, unformed cells. Given the proper environment, they undergo a maturation process to become a new cell and then migrate, through cellular communication, to the area of damage, telling the fibroblast cells, “it is time for you to die, I am here to take your place.”
So, you get a brand new cell replacing an old, aging cell that is removed naturally from the body.
Stem cells’ low rate of division is actually a protective measure, according to Dr. Geraldine Guasch, a researcher at Rockefeller University, New York, NY. The more cells divide, the greater their chance of DNA mutation. Cancer is basically the result of haywire cell production. Mutated stem cells may cause cancers to grow back even after chemotherapy, which could make skin stem cells’ inherent accessibility more of a bane than a benefit. Susceptibility to UV damage could mean they are prey to even more mutations than internal cells. In skin, it has not been demonstrated yet that a stem cell can be the start of cancer. If a company claims to increase stemcell activity, Dr. Guasch wants proof that the chromosomes of these new cells do not accumulate mutations. Besides, as Dennis Gross, a New York City dermatologist, points out, anything that alters cellular activity, constitutes a drug claim and require FDA approval. Dr. Perricone is considering equipping his Madison Avenue flagship
154 DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN?
boutique with a machine that would enable him to harvest and store clients’ individual stem cells — other innovators are focusing on preserving the cells we already have.1
Some experts question whether the enzyme found in ReVive Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit truly ignites stem cell differentiation. Telomerase plays a role in some, but probably not all, stem cells, says Amy Wagers, a principal faculty member of the Harvard Stem Cell Institute in Cambridge, MA. Dr. Wagers is not familiar with any data suggesting it directs their differentiation or wakes them up. Regarding before and after photos that show a dramatic improvement in skin tone and texture with fewer fine lines, Dr. Gross noted that many active ingredients work on skin cells to stimulate them to make byproducts like collagen. This is very different from stem cell technology in which the cells themselves form tissue.
Meanwhile, with the debut of Capture R60/80 XP, Christian Dior became the first global luxury brand to tap into stem cell technology.
Storage BanksRecently two teams of researchers transformed ordinary skin cells into batches of cells that look and act like embryonic stem cells— those master cells that give rise to every cell and tissue in the body. Moreover, they accomplished that without cloning technology or embryos. Dr. Shinya Yamanaka of Kyoto University, Japan, recently said that creating a bank to store a new type of stem cell produced from donor’s ordinary skin cells could reduce time and money for treating patients. This research makes it possible to reset an aging cell to become an entirely new being, and may give rise to powerful anti-aging actives in the future. Several companies, including Bio Eden, C’elle, Neostem and Store A Tooth, provide stem cell extraction and storage services, though viable therapies may be years away
Apple Stem CellsMibelle Biochemistry launched an anti-aging active based on an extremely rare form of apple stem cells. It promises to protect skin stem cells and slow the senescence of hair follicles. In vivo and in vitro tests proved that the ingredient, PhytoCell TecMalus Domestica, boosted the production of human stem cells, protected them from stress and decreased facial wrinkle depth. It also delayed the aging of the hair follicles, suggesting a possible use in anti-aging hair preparations.
Not everyone is convinced that stem cell creams are the future of anti-aging. There are not enough published scientific data available to support its safety and efficacy in skin care products at this time. Stem cells are very popular, but many dermatologists remain skeptical. Alan Matarasso, a cosmetic plastic surgeon in New York City, noted that the theory of stem cells sounds good but the question is, whether or not a topically-applied cream can send signals to activate these stem cells. Until there are double-blind clinical studies, their efficacy is unproven. Ultimately it is up to the consumer to decide if the results live up to all the hype.
An apple a day...keeps wrinkles away?
155 DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN?
According to David Colbert, a New York City dermatologist, it may be premature to choose a stem cell cream over one with, say, time-proven retinols or hydroxyl acids. Stem cell research is still very young. There is much more information to unravel.
Nanotechnology, DNA and now stem cell technology have all recently entered the skin care category. My concern is that these highly scientific technologies are marketed to consumers at ridiculously high price. No one is looking seriously at whether the drug-like claims that are being made for these technologies are truly accurate or if their long-term use would put the consumer’s health and safety at risk.
References:1. Stem cells, P. Jones, Nov. 2007, SPC.2. L. Rinaldi, Voss Laboratories, Salt Lake City, Utah.3. Investigation, micromanagement, M. Bullock, Elle, Dec. 2007.
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ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF ASCORBIC ACID
ASCORBIC ACID is a potent, naturally occurring, water-soluble vitamin with photo-protective and anti-inflammatory properties. This antioxidant is not produced by the human body. Free radicals, those rogue molecules
that irreparably harm cells, cause inflammation, tissue damage, age-related health problems and accelerate the aging process, are generated by pollutants, smoking, radiation and UV light. This column will briefly review the antioxidant and anti-aging properties of this important component to human health.
There are a variety of ways to boost your vitamin C intake.
157 ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF ASCORBIC ACID
Ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, has become one of the most widely used ingredients in anti-wrinkle and anti-aging creams. Anti-aging products accounted for 23% of the total global skin care market in 2008 and grew faster than any other product type within skin care. The category was forecast to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 5% in real terms, to reach $22.5 billion by 2013.
Product DevelopmentL-ascorbic acid is closest to a natural form of vitamin C found in skin care products. It is unstable due to its low pH, which increases its irritation potential. It oxidizes when exposed to air. It can be formulated into water or lipid soluble forms. It must be stored in a dark, cool place. Light breaks down vitamin C, making it acidic and thereby rendering it ineffective.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is a gentle form of vitamin C ester. It is least irritating and is known for its ability to plump and brighten skin and remains active against free radicals. It is easy to formulate, absorbs well into the skin and is good for collagen production. MAP is made from a mix of l-ascorbic acid and palm oil. The combination creates a nonacidic, fat-soluble vitamin C that does not generate free radicals, so there is no inflammation. It does not oxidize like the acidic form and does not degrade easily. It absorbs well by penetrating skin better and more rapidly, stimulating fibroblasts which, in turn, generate new collagen and thus help inhibit wrinkle formation while protecting skin cells against damage.
Vitamin C is very sensitive to oxidation and gives finished formulas a yellowish color as they age. There are many cosmetic products available that contain different forms of vitamin C.1-4 In order to develop an effective vitamin C topical product, usually it is preferable to use l-ascorbic acid at 10% level with the formulation having pH 3.5 for superior efficacy. However, some consumers’ skin can be irritated by daily application of low pH product. Studies have suggested that l-ascorbic acid is absorbed by the skin when formulated in an anhydrous waterin-oil emulsion system. It is helpful to add metal-chelating agents such as EDTA to improve storage stability. Vitamins C and E contribute to mutual stability and increase overall efficacy.5 Vitamin C plays part in reactivating the vitamin E molecule after it has reacted with a free radical. Further studies have shown that this combination product when applied topically provides a four-fold skin protection.6 There are products that have combined 3% l-ascorbic acid with 0.04% retinol. Vitamin C, when combined with phloretin and ferrulic acid, showed a protective effect against photodamage.7
Efficacy & BenefitsTopical products have an advantage over ingestibles in that they can target vitamin C to the area of the skin needing the protection. Tissue levels are saturated after three daily applications; the half-life of tissue disappearance is about four days.8 There is evidence that vitamins C and E accumulate in the skin. Many different topical products with varying vitamin C concentration are available, but some studies show that skin absorption of lascorbic acid at pH 3.2 peaks at 20% and decreases at higher levels. Some studies have shown that skin requires more vitamin C as it ages.
There is considerable evidence to support vitamin C’s effectiveness on skin. Vitamin C neutralizes free radicals before they attack skin cells and prevent premature signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles, protects against future damage and helps prevent the development of skin cancer caused by UVA and UVB exposure.9 The collagen synthesis stimulating properties of vitamin C accelerates An increase in collagen synthesis helps thicken skin. It also helps fight tumor formation
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and slows down skin cancer. It increases moisture content of skin by thickening it. Its skin-barrier improvement and anti-inflammatory properties make it an ideal component of post-laser skin resurfacing treatments. Vitamin C may even prove to be an effective treatment for melasma.
In conclusion, topically applied vitamin C has an important role in the treatment of aging skin. Due to confl icting research, there is no way to know which grade, concentration or pH of vitamin C has the best stability.12 Unfortunately, many of the current topical products cannot penetrate the stratum corneum and are consequently, useless. Furthermore, these products are not packaged in airtight and light-resistant containers and hence become inactive just hours after opening the package.
References:1. Humbert et al. Exp. Derm. 2003; 12:237-2442. Traikovich S. Arch. Otolary. Head, Neck surgery 1999, 125:1091-1098.3. Epinal-Perez et al. Int. J. derm 2004:43; 604-6074. Seite et al. Skin Pharmacol. Physio. 2005; 18(2);81-75. S. Pinnel et al, Derm. surgery 27, 137-142(2001)6. J. Lin et al J. Am. Acad. Derm. 48, 866-874(2003)7. C. Oresajo et al. J. Cosm. Derm. 7 , 290-297 (2008)8. Pinnell et al. Derm. Surgery 2001:27(2) 137-429. Pinnell, J. Am. Acad. Derm. 2003:48 1-19.10. Humbert. Eu. J. Derm 2002: 11:172-17311. W. Smith Int. J. Cos. J. 1999, 21:33-4012. Derm. Surg. Feb. 2001, pages 137-142.
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SKIN LIGHTENING PROPERTIES OF ASCORBIC ACID
Popularly known as vitamin C in its primary form, L-ascorbic acid has a proven track record for improving the appearance of aging skin; no wonder it is the most common antioxidant ingredient in OTC skin care products. Vitamin C
stimulates formation of collagen, which is the natural cement and scaffolding found throughout the body. It also plays a role as a water-soluble antioxidant that helps prevent free radical damage to cells.
This column will briefly review the skin lightning properties of vitamin C.
Skin LighteningVitamins C and E behave as antioxidants by protecting cells from oxidized compounds and free radicals by giving up their electrons to compounds that need them. This action keeps those compounds from going out and injuring other molecules. Humans lack the enzyme necessary for synthesizing vitamin C, so they must obtain it through oral ingestion or topical application.1
Topical application has shown to be superior for replenishing skin concentrations of vitamin C.2 Researchers have identified three vitamin C derivatives— magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl-glucoside—all with improved stability that efficiently convert to L-ascorbic acid in the skin to leave it firmer, healthier and more youthful.3,4 OTC creams that contain vitamins C and A, and/or soy, all have a mild pigmentlightening effect. This lightening process can be accelerated using home peels and home micro-dermabrasion as exfoliation enables actives to more effectively penetrate skin. Clinical studies have shown that ascorbyl glucoside safely modulates common forms of hyper-pigmentation such as: age spots and difficult-to-treat melisma.5,6 This stems from its ability to block the action of tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in the formation of new melanin.7,8
In one clinical study, patients ages 30 to 50 with facial hyperpigmentation applied an ascorbyl glucoside topical formula to one side of their face daily for four weeks. At the end of the study, the treated side of the panelists’ faces showed a significant reduction in total area of hyper pigmented spots. Furthermore, 70% of subjects treated with ascorbyl glucoside reported lighter skin compared to 16.6% in the untreated group.9
Another popular ingredient is a stabilized derivative of vitamin C called magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or MAP. It inhibits tyrosinase, the main pigment
160 Skin Lightening Properties of Ascorbic Acid
forming enzyme. Research has shown that MAP enhances the skin’s ability to retain water, making it visibly softer and smoother.10,11 In a controlled clinical study, human volunteers applied topical MAP to their forearm skin daily for four weeks. Researchers used corneometry and cutometery to objectively measure skin hydration. By these measures, MAP significantly increases hydration in both the outer and deeper layers of the skin, thereby demonstrating sustained effects.10 This finding was later confirmed in yet another trial.11
FormulationsVitamin C inhibits tyrosinase, but not as effectively as other agents. MAP is a stable derivative of ascorbic acid and can suppress melanin formation at levels of 3-10%. It is converted to vitamin C in the skin by non-specific esterases. Barnet Products supplies BV-OSC (Tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate), a very stable oilsoluble vitamin C. It penetrates the cells more effectively which is confirmed by data on keratinocytes, and fibroblasts. It reduces melanin synthesis by 80%. It is approved as a quasi-drug skin lightener in Japan.
Vitamin C-based products should be formulated at a low pH to help skin absorb the vitamin. Product jars should be kept airtight to prevent oxidation. These products have been shown to penetrate the skin and protect against free radical formation. Although adverse effects are minimal, ascorbic acid is relatively ineffective when used alone. Therefore it is usually combined with other agents such as licorice extract, according to Zoe Diana Draelos, MD. It helps to formulate the product with ferulic acid, a powerful free radical scavenger slows down the breakdown of vitamin C and enhances its protective effects against ultraviolet damage. When added to a combination of vitamin C and E, ferulic acid doubled its photo-protection properties from 4- to 8-fold.12
To be effective, lightening products must be formulated in a high concentration of at least 5% or greater strength of active material. There are brightening formulations that combine retinol and vitamin C for brightening. Every clinical study has proved that stabilized forms of vitamin C in its active form as L-ascorbic acid has multiple skin benefits, but its susceptibility to oxidation limits its stability in topical preparations.
References:1 Naidu, K.A., et. al., Nutr. J. 2003: 2:72 Telang, P.S., Indian. Derm. Online J. 2013:4 (2):143-63 Austria, R., et. al., J. Pharm. Biomed. Anal. 1997:15(6) 795-8014 Knaggs, H. Cosmet. Derm. 2009:8(2) 77-825 Taylor, M.B., et. al., J. Drugs. Derm. 2013:12(1) 45-506 Kinetiktech.com/brochures/pdf/rahn leaflet7 Sarkar, R., et. al. J. Cutan. Aesth. Surg. 2013, 6(1): 4-118 E Banks, J.P., et. al, Int. J. Mol. Sci 2009: 10(9):4066-879 Hakozaki T., et al. Skin Res. Tech. 2006-12(2): 105-13.10 Campos P.M., et al. Skin Res. Tech. 2008:14(3): 376-8011 Campos P.M., et al. Photochem. Photobiol. 2012:88(3): 748- 5212. Lin F. et al. J. Invest. Derm. 2005:125(4) 826:32
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THE HEALTH & BEAUTY BENEFITS OF ASTAXANTHIN
THE CONCEPT of ingestible beauty is gradually gaining acceptance. According to Datamonitor, 2005 sales of oral beauty supplements were $767.6 million in Europe compared with $741.9 million in the U.S. and will reach $1.16 billion in 2010.
Growth drivers include consumer’s need to stop the aging process, their fondness for natural products and their belief that only limited benefits come from slathering creams and lotions on the body. As a result, botanical extracts, fats and oils and other natural products are expected to register sustained growth because they are ideal ingredients for formulated products and consumers see them as improving their health. With Baby Boomers starting to gray, there’s a real need for unique raw materials and make-me-feelbeautiful technologies focused on delivering anti-aging benefits.
One of them is a relatively unknown compound called Astaxanthin which belongs to the family of carotenoids and is more familiar than you think. The pink color of salmon is a result of astaxanthin. Salmon accumulate high level of astaxanthin from their diet which may help to protect them from free radical damage caused by the environment or the physical stress caused by upstream spawing
ChemistryAstaxanthin is extracted from the marine microalgae, Haematococcus pluvialis. It contains astaxanthin and other carotenoids such as carotene, canthaxanthin and lutein in its own natural oil that also contains Omega- 3 and Omega-6 essential fatty acids. These natural compounds are important nutrients and protectants for the skin and for the whole body health.1 Astaxanthin’s potency has to do with its chemical structure. A cell membrane is like an Oreo cookie. It has two lipid layers (the cookie wafer) separated by a center (the cream). Antioxidants reside either outside the first cookie layer or inside the cream.
Antioxidant BenefitsAstaxanthin is powerful and safe antioxidant. It is more potent than vitamin E and beta carotene. It exerts its action by physical quenching rather than by a chemical reaction. It occupies a superior position in cell membranes because it is both aqueous and lipid soluble. How does it work? We know that it is produced by micro-algae when they are exposed to intense sunlight. As an antioxidant, it protects the algae from UV radiation allowing them to survive even in the harshest of conditions. Similarly, it protects body tissue from oxidation.
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Product DevelopmentTypical white creams and lotions, when formulated with astaxanthin would develop a strong red, orange or yellow color. A topical cream would develop a salmon color when 0.03- 0.07% astaxanthin is incorporated. Adding micronized titanium dioxide helps reduce color intensity. Colorless carotenoids for topical application and oral consumption are available from IBR Ltd. Co., Ramat-Gan, Israel.
Health BenefitsPositioned at the bottom of the food chain, single cell micro-algae plants take energy from the sun and combine it with organic residues to produce nearly all living material and food on earth. They represent one of the most concentrated, healthiest and power-packed foods humans can consume. Mass cultured, micro-algae produces a number of nutritionally beneficial substances such as polyunsaturated fatty acids, carotenoids and polysaccharides. Health benefits include boosting the body’s overall antioxidant status and protecting it from a variety of oxidative stresslinked diseases. Astaxanthin has proven to be a multifunctional supplement. Research has shown that its oral consumption is helpful in the areas of muscle endurance, skin protection, eye strength, gastrointestinal health, immune function and fertility.
Wrinkle ReductionA preliminary human clinical study demonstrated anti-wrinkle benefits in females using topical cream containing astaxanthin (Table I). A dermatological assessment revealed a significant reduction of wrinkles and puffiness on the lower eye and cheeks after two weeks of use.2
Moisturization: In a separate study using female subjects, instrumental analysis recorded a significant moisture improvement in the skin (p<0.05) after three weeks of product use.
Anti-inflammatory: It is known that inflammation that normally follows sun exposure is modulated by powerful antioxidants. In a clinical study it was shown that topical astaxanthin significantly reduced burn level (erythema) by 60% at 98 hours after UVB exposure.3 Suppression of post UVB hyperpigmentation: Synthetic and natural form of astaxanthin reduces the reddening and recovery after UVB radiation.
Table I: How Astaxanthin Maintains Skin Health
Benefits MechanismTopical Route
Dietary Route
Increase skin’s ability to resist environmental stripping of skin nutrients.
Restores skin’s natural antioxidant balance (SOD, CAT, GSH) Protects cell membrane against lipid peroxidation
Reduce puffiness and erythema.
Suppresses the inflmmatory pathway
Prevent and reduce presence of UV-induced wrinkles. Firmer and elastic skin. Increased moisture
Protects the dermal layer against oxidative stress dysfunction.Allowing repair process to heal collagen network.
Reduce the risk of skin cancer.
Protects against accumulated DNA damage.
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This is also the leading cause for a skin condition called hyper-pigmentation. Natural astaxanthin demonstrated faster recovery times of the erythma index suggesting anti-inflammatory properties that may also contribute to the reduction of hyper-pigmentation.4
Melanin synthesis inhibition (cell study): Skin pigmentation such as stains and freckles are caused by excessive, uneven melanin production. Melanin is known to reduce tyrosinase activity which will reduce pigmentation. This can be achieved by inhibiting the synthesis of tyrosinase or by using an antagonist substrate for tyrosinase. Pigmentation is also prevented by inhibiting auto-oxidation of dopa and suppressing inflammatory reactions such as erythema following UV irradiation. Whitening agents such as arbutin, kojic acid and ascorbic acid derivative inhibit tyrosinase synthesis. This study conducted by Kose investigated the potential whitening effect of astaxanthin relative to the other whitening agents. Astaxanthin dose-dependently reduced melanin deposition. Astaxanthin did not inactivate isolated tyrosinase and this suggests the mechanism of melanin reduction by inhibition of the auto-oxidation of dopa and dopaquinone. There are other astaxanthin containing preparations for prevention of skin aging that have been developed.5
Oral: True beauty starts from within. Unhealthy skin is dry, dull, discolored without its youthful glow. Astaxanthin is consumed as a supplement for skin benefits. Although this may not strike the consumer initially as a means of caring for the skin, it is the concept of beauty from within which Fuji Health Science was the first to promote in Japan. Several clinical studies have clearly shown benefit for the skin in elasticity and subsequent reduction of fine wrinkles. Best results were seen when the oral supplementation (Astavita skin defense complex) was accompanied by using a topical products branded as Astacure–a retail line marketed throughout Japan.
Wrinkles: The benefits of daily astaxanthin supplementation (4mg) were demonstrated in a single blind placebo controlled study. There were significant improvements in fine lines/wrinkles, elasticity and in moisture content.2
Anti-inflammatory: It provides cytokine regulation inhibiting the expression of inflammatory cytokines and chemokines. Thus it acts as an outstanding anti-inflammatory. In a clinical study, each capsule contained 2 mg. of astaxanthin. Skin dryness, moisture, roughness, elasticity and fine lines were reduced. Over 50% of subjects in the treated group had subjective improvement of all items. Elasticity in treated group was significantly improved at week 6. Moisture content and elasticity were improved when measured at week 3 and week 6 compared to the baseline initial values.3 Skin surface photographs of four subjects in the treated group at week 6 showed improvements of elasticity, wrinkles and fine lines.Astaxanthin is determined safe for topical use. It is listed in the J P Cosmetics, and the INCI name is: Haemotococcus pluvialis extract. There were no adverse topical reactions in animal sensitization models.5
ConclusionHealthy, beautiful skin requires a sensible diet, topicals and daily supplements. You can utilize the potent cosmetic properties of this new ingredient as part of the daily skin care program. The cosmetic effects on the skin observed from the oral use of astaxanthin and the cosmetic effects of topical use of astaxanthin in clinical study have established astaxanthin as both a potent anti-aging cosmeceutical as well as a nutricosmeceutical ingredient. It plays an important role in protection of cells because of its exceptional anti-inflammatory properties. New skin care products combine topical and oral ingredients.Last year, the Beauty-from-Within concept bloomed and today’s cosmeceuticals merge supplements with creams, lotions and other topically-applied skin care
164 THE HEALTH & BEAUTY BENEFITS OF ASTAXANTHIN
products. Many of the newest cosmeceuticals are actually based on ingredients with a long history of use in other applications, making them familiar to manufacturers and consumers alike.6 Astavita holds a library of patents relating to these health and beauty benefits.7 There is a substantial body of published scientific and medical literature about astaxanthin including the results of pre-clinical studies and human clinical trials. All clinical studies conducted, used astaxanthin branded as AstaREAL, a high quality, purified raw material from Fuji Health Science, Mt. Laurel, NJ.
References1. Astaxanthin- Antioxidant from the sea. Dr. R.C. Honour, chairman , Elura (Seattle,
WA).2. The effects of dietary supplement containing astaxanthin on skin condition., Dr, E.
Yamashita, Fuji Health Science Co., Japan.3. Seki, T. et al(2001), Effects of astaxanthin on human skin. Fragrance Journal 12:98-
103.4. Yamashita E. (1995), Suppression of post-UVB hyperpigmentation by topical
astaxanthin from Krill. Fragrance Journal 14:180-185.5. Koura, S (2005), skin sensitization study of astaxanthin in guinea pigs. Study
number 05035. New drug Research Center Inc. Hokaido, japan.6. D. Schatzman, Nutritional Outlook, p.39-43, vol.10, issue 5.7. Suzuki. JP # 08073311 and JP 08073312.
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A ‘STINGING’ ENDORSEMENT FOR HONEY AND BEE VENOM
The term “natural” has considerable market value in promoting skin care cosmetic products to consumers. We are familiar with natural ingredients such as jojoba, safflower oil, rose hip seed oil, shea butter, beeswax, aloe vera, witch
hazel, tea tree oil and chamomile, to name just a few.More recently, cosmetics manufacturers have latched on to two natural
ingredients: honey and bee venom. Neither material is new; in fact, honey’s and bee venom’s medicinal use can be traced back to ancient China and Greece. This column will briefly discuss their emerging anti-aging benefits that are creating a lot of buzz in the cosmetics industry. Let’s take a closer look at both of these natural ingredients.
Honey: You may not be aware that honey has been used to treat wounds for centuries. Honey soothes dryness, protects against sun damage and fights acne. In the US alone, there are nearly 300 varieties of honey ranging in color from translucent yellow to dark brown. Different colors signify varying nutrient content. A darker color suggests a higher antioxidant value, as it has less water and therefore is more concentrated.
Honey benefits the skin complexion with a trace amount cocktail of important vitamins and minerals such as vitamin B complex, vitamin C, minerals, amino acids, riboflavin, niacin, magnesium, potassium, zinc and enzymes. Honey’s flavonoids and phenolic acids are a mixture of potent antioxidants that scavenge and eliminate free radicals.
A Honey of an IngredientAs the skin ages, it progressively thins and its capacity to retain moisture is diminished. Topically applied honey-containing products come to the rescue because they attract moisture from the air and lock into the upper layer of the skin1 creating a moisturized skin. Honey is an excellent anti-inflammatory and antibacterial agent, providing help in healing acne wounds because it clears infection, stimulates immune system and reduces inflammation.
Laura Mercier recently launched Crème Brulee Honey Bubble Bath. A honey dipper is provided for swirling the skin-softening vanilla emulsion into the tub. New Zealand-based Bee Bio company has launched a complete honeybased anti-aging range. Product claims include reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, improvement in skin tone, dark spots, firmer, smoother, softer, more radiant skin.
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Bee Venom: contains a peptide known as melittin, which is known to increase blood circulation. It is used cosmetically to “fool” the skin into thinking it has been lightly stung. This causes the body to direct blood toward the area, tightening the skin. This stimulates body’s own natural chemicals: collagen and elastin. Collagen strengthens the tissue while elastin helps the skin remain taut and elastic. This is often accompanied by slight tingling— a sign that the product is working.2
The process of extracting the venom from bees is an arduous process. Bees are shocked at a low level, which causes them to secrete their venom, which is then collected on glass plates. According to agricultural researchers, it takes 10,000 bee stings to generate just one gram of dry venom, which explains why high-end products containing bee venom are so costly.
Yet, the high cost hasn’t stifled a stampede for bee venom-based products in the UK. Demand for the stuff surged even higher, when it was revealed that Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, tried a bee venom mask prior to the royal wedding in 2011.
The UK’s Beetox Co. has launched a skin care range employing anti-aging claims such as reduction in redness, lines, wrinkles and large pores; calming and soothing of the skin; and improving skin texture. Another UK-based company, Rodial, has launched a bee venom skin care range with prices ranging from $178 to $248.
The Doctors’ OpinionHoney is one of the most time-tested skin fixes around, according to Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a dermatologist at Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York. It has been used as an antibacterial remedy for centuries because it naturally contains hydrogen peroxide. Honey’s anti-aging benefits are confirmed by dermatologist Dr. Mervyn Patterson who suggests that the sugar in the honey draws water out of the skin, producing skin tightening, creating a smooth skin surface. Dr. Kristine Schmalenberg of Johnson & Johnson maintains that bee venom has really risen to the top of the list of new efficacious skin care ingredients.
According to Dr. Sang Mittan, a research biologist at the national academy of Agricultural Science in South Korea, bee venom is an effective alternative treatment to antibiotic acne therapy, and a must for anti-aging and collagen production. According to Mittan, bee venom works on both dermal and epidermal levels to reduce fine lines and wrinkles through accelerated cell regeneration, increasing production of epidermal growth factor (EGF) that, in turn, helps boost skin elasticity.
How sweet it is! Honey has many beauty benefits.But not everyone agrees with that assessment. According to Dr. David Leffell, a
professor of dermatology at Yale University, the advantageous effects of bee venom products are over blown. Similarly, New York dermatologist Francesca Fusco calls bee venom, the new flavor of the month, much like apple stem cells were a few years back. She admits that bee venom does decrease inflammation. Although some bee-venom creams claim to be safe for people with bee allergies, Dr. Fusco recommends consulting with an internist or allergist before use—as there are some kinds of hives you just don’t want!
Anecdotally, we have known for decades that Cleopatra maintained her beauty by soaking in baths laced with aromatic rose petals and honey. Research has now confirmed the beauty and anti-aging benefits of honey and bee venom. I hope this buildup of consumer expectations for beauty that comes straight from the hives is not misplaced and does not leave consumers stung by disillusionment and disappointment.•
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References1. K. Erickson, Better Nutrition, 4/11/132. E. Holmes, W. Journal, Style & Fashion, April 27, 2013.
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UNDERSTANDING RESVERATROL AS TOPICAL SKIN BRIGHTENERS
The global skin lightening market is expected to reach $10 billion by 2015, driven by new markets in the West and sustained growth in Asia, according to a recent report by Global Industry Analysts (GIA). Japan dominates the market, while
India and China are the fastest growing markets in the segment. According to GIA, the Asian market for skin lighteners will cross the $2 billion mark this year.
Skin whitening is widely practiced in Asia, where white skin is considered to be beautiful. In North America and Europe, skin lightening is considered more of an anti-aging treatment to hide unwanted signs of aging. Although the pigmentation disorders affect all skin types, individuals with darker skin, including Asians, Blacks and Latinos are more susceptible. Older individuals throughout the world suffering from liver spots or age spots, and other age related skin darkening conditions, are increasingly turning to skin lightening formulations in an effort to maintain what is perceived to be clearer and more youthful looking skin. Women from China, Japan and India have used traditional plants and their extracts, commercially available precisely for this purpose.1 Some natural compounds partially inhibit melanin synthesis or modulate tyrosinase activity. Chemically, the botanical brightening compounds sourced are usually polyphenols, benzaldehyde and benzoate derivatives, long-chain lipids and steroids, other natural or synthetic inhibitors. These compounds may have weak to strong whitening effects on the skin.2 These plant extracts have a distinct disadvantage of nonuniformity from batch to batch, instability, pesticide residue, lack of standardized product consistency, uncertain efficacy and dependable availability. To overcome these obvious disadvantages associated with botanical actives, DSM Nutritional Products Company inaugurated a nature identical version of resveratrol, trademarked as Regu-Fade (active) which is composed of transresveratrol, an antioxidant found in red grapes, to the global cosmetic industry at the 2011 In-Cosmetics show in Milan, Italy. This column will briefly discuss its skin brightening properties.
169 Understanding Resveratrol as Topical Skin Brighteners
Composition and FormulationResveratrol, a phytochemical, is found in red grapes, grape juice and red wine, and has been shown to prolong life in yeast and animals because of its antioxidant anti-inflammatory properties. Natural resveratrol contains both cis and trans forms, with its pigment-controlling properties residing in its trans form, which is only found in the active. It is grayish to tan powder, practically odorless, preservative-free and is thermostable. It is sensitive to light, almost insoluble in water and in lipophilic components. Optimal pH range is from 3 to 6.5 in formulations. The final formulation should not be exposed to direct sunlight and it should contain UV filters for additional stability.
In-Vivo EfficacyDSM Nutritional Products Company conducted a double-blind, placebo-controlled study using 52 female volunteers in India. Three test ingredients were added to an SPF 10 cream, applied twice daily on the forearms, and colorimetric measurements were taken after 14, 28, 60 and 90 days.
The formula containing 1% active provided the brightest skin, followed by the 0.2% active formula, a 2% ascorbyl glucoside formula, and the cream base was last. Up to 1% active is recommended for skin brightening facial and body care products or anti-aging creams.
Melanin is a polyanionic pigment that is produced by the melanocytes. Melanocytes are the melaninproducing epidermal cells. Melanogenesis is the process of production and distribution of melanin by the melanocytes to epidermal keratinocytes. Melanin synthesis can be manipulated by changing the tyrosinase activity, which is usually accomplished in many different ways. Effective skin brightening requires attenuating the melanin production cascade at multiple points. Melanogenesis-associated genes in hyper-pigmented skin; e.g., TYRP1 (tyrosinase-related protein 1), DCT (dopachrome tautomerase), Pmel- 17 (SILV protein), and MITF (microphthalmia- associated transcription factor), are all increased in actinic lentigos. There is also a role for stem cell factor (SCF) in hyperpigmentation—especially solar lentigos. Several of these genes were down regulated, which targeted a broad spectrum of different functions in the pigmentation process from initial signaling, gene expression and final melanosome transfer.
In plants, resveratrol functions as a protective agent and is synthesized in response to stress, infections or strong UV radiation. Many raw material suppliers are actively researching botanical extracts that can work with other actives and synergistically provide tyrosinase enzyme inhibition.
In the mad rush to incorporate truly natural ingredients, it is important to ensure that the selected actives have met all the skin safety testing requirements. Not all treatments fi t all skin types. Harsh treatments sometimes trigger unwanted hyperpigmentation. Usually it takes anywhere from 8 to 16 weeks to see results, so it is important to use the product diligently and for a prolonged time. Patience is a necessity. In the case of this active, in-vivo studies showed skin brightening after two weeks of product use. Most commercial skin brightening products combine different actives in order to attack the pigment-generating process at many levels. Sometimes adverse effects, such as toxicity or environmental concerns, sidetrack an experimental active from entering the market. It is safe to conclude that one should focus more on taking good care of his skin.
References:1. Lee et al. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci 19, 291-298, 1997. 2. Shimizu et al. Planta Med, 66, 11-15, 2000. A growing dem
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AGE-OLD POMEGRANATE HAS ANTI-AGING BENEFITS
BOTANICALS have been used to treat illness and maintain health for years. Modern delivery systems utilize whole plants, seeds, fruits and flowers in their extracted form. In skin care formulas they have skin-firming, soothing
and moisturizing properties. They also act as diuretics or laxatives to rid the body of toxins, or by stimulating body’s own healing powers and help preserve health. At present there is a huge surge of interest in this type of holistic health care.
Pomegranate, a crimson colored seasonal fruit is juicy, full of flavor and extremely nutritious. There is a general agreement that it first appeared in Persia and migrated to India, Northern Africa, China, Europe and the U.S. It is one of the oldest cultivated fruit for its both edible and medicinal properties.
It has been held sacred in many religions. The ancient Egyptians called it the fruit of immortality because of its powerful antioxidant properties and it is prominent in ancient literature, mythology and spiritual writings.
CompositionPomegranate contains various nutrients and pharmacological substances such as vitamins (B1, B2 , C and niacin), minerals (potassium), amino acids (glutamic acids, aspartic acids) tannins (punicalagin, ellagic acid) and alkaloids (pelletierines), and is a rich source of antioxidants, polyphenols and hydrolyzed tannins.1
Tufts University researchers evaluated the antioxidant needs of the average person plus the antioxidant power of fruits and vegetables, which is referred to as ORAC(oxygen radical absorbancy capacity). They concluded that people need approximately 5000 ORAC units a day to counteract free radical damage. A minimum of three servings of fruits and vegetables per day provides only approximately 1,200 ORAC units. This is the first biological standardization method for antioxidants. Pomegranate provides 2,750 ORAC units. Here’s how that compares to other fruits and vegetables:
• blueberries, 2,400;• blackberries, 2,036;• kale, 1,770;• strawberries, 1,540;• spinach, 1,260;• raspberries, 1,220;
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• brussel sprouts, 980;• plums, 949;• alfalfa sprouts, 930;• broccoli, 890;• oranges, 750;• red grapes, 739;• red bell peppers, 710;• cherries, 670;• onions, 450;• corn, 400 and• eggplant, 390.
BenefitsAs evidenced from the above chart pomegranate has the highest ORAC value and hence it is most powerful antioxidant to neutralize the skin damaging free radicals, thus providing superior anti-aging results. The fruit has many benefits when taken internally. Pomegranate has a higher concentration of natural ellagic acid and other polyphenols to neutralize free radicals. Studies in animal have shown a marked reduction of plaque build up in arteries by 44%. Ellagic acid and other components have been shown to lower LDL levels in blood serum, thereby potentially offering a reduction of blood pressure in humans. According to one study, a combination of pomegranate juice extract and cold pressed oil has been shown to selectively destroy estrogen dependant cancer cells. Pomegranate Health launched CardioGranate and EstraGranate, 100% pomegranate dietary supplements. The health benefits of this seasonal fruit now could be available all year round. Benefits include its use as an alternative to hormone replacement therapy, to maintain heart health and as an antioxidant.
Pomegranate provides many skin care benefits, too. Its high level of ellagic acid and punicic acid may have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. In fact, University of Michigan researchers found that topical applications of pomegranate extract and its seed oil prevent fine wrinkles and firm the epidermis. At 1-3%, organic cold-pressed pomegranate seed oil in a topical preparation had superior emolliency and protection.2
Skin aging is caused, in large measure, by free radicals, which inflame collagen. Pomegranate extracts and especially the oil has been proven to inhibit the eicosanoid metabolism that eventually causes the inflammation.3 Many dermatologist-developed skin care brands have included pomegranate as an active ingredient.
References1. Brunswick Laboratories, Wareham, MA 02571.2. Asia Moore, Simple Health Secrets, 2/18/04.3. Extracts and IngredientsLtd., (Affiliate of Morre-Tec Ind.) One GaryRd., Union, NJ 07083-5527. E-mail:, [email protected]
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Chapter 51
DO STEM CELLS HOLD THE KEY TO YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN?
Stem cells though controversial, often play a key role in drug research. Now these materials are finding new applications in skin care, and stem cells are the latest buzzword in the anti-aging category. Yet scientific opinion remains
divided on their origin. One opinion is that stem cells arise when sperm fertilizes an egg, while the other is that they originate in the inner cell mass of the blastocyst. Stem cells have the ability to go through numerous cycles and cell divisions while maintaining their undifferentiated state. They also have the capacity to differentiate into other cell types such as muscle, blood and nerve tissue. Adult stem cells reorganize, heal and repopulate the skin with new cells. They arise from the basal layer of the epidermis and at the hair follicle base. Adult stem cells, as opposed to embryonic stem cells, repair and regenerate damaged tissues. Theoretically they possess the ability to create new skin cells and regenerate the skin for a lifetime, but age and environmental factors cause them to function less efficiently, resulting in olderlooking, aged skin. Stem cell-based creams reportedly stave-off this process by either stimulating or protecting stem cells deep in the basal layer of the epidermis. Stem cells divide relatively infrequently. With age, stem cells lose their proliferative capacity and perhaps their ability to respond to signals to produce more epithelial cells, according to R. Ghadially, a dermatologist and skin stem cell specialist at the University of California at San Franciscco’s Institute for Regenerative Medicine. Increasing proliferation is the ultimate complexion rejuvenator.
Stem Cells in SkinEpithelial skin stem cells are found in the basal layer of the epidermis, while hair bulge stem cells are found in hair follicles. Furthermore, hair follicular stem cells, tooth stem cells and skin stem cells all show therapeutic promise and may one day restore hair to bald men, teeth to those in need and skin to scarred patients, according to Dr. Denis English, editor of Journal of Stem Cells and director of cell biology at the University of South Florida. Changes in the skin are caused by aging, disease or injuries. Although drugs can relieve consequences of the disease, they will not suppress the cause. Therefore, the most attractive strategy is to replace disabled
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cells, and to this end, to take advantage of stem cells.1 According to Gregory Brown, creator of ReVive, accessibility also makes skin stem cells appealing to cosmetic chemists. Stem cells are readily available in hair follicles and sweat glands. The ratio of stem cells to regular cells in skin is still hotly debated. It was once thought to be 1 in 10, but is now suspected to be more like 1 in 10,000.
Stem Cells and AgingStem cells have a limited life expectancy because UV, smoking and ozone all hasten skin cell depletion, resulting in DNA damage, telomere shortening and oxidative stress. Cell depletion does not activate stem cells to change into new cells. Aging stem cells lead to a decreased capacity for repair, an increased incidence of degenerative diseases and an increased incidence of cancer in tissues that contain stem cells. Skin rejuvenation comes to a halt when stem cells remain inactive.
Under the right stimulus, stem cell activity could be jump-started to initiate skin rejuvenation. Stem cells have unique secondary structures of DNA and RNA. Stem cells have special components in the cytosol-epigenetic factors. Stem cells are sensitive to environmental stress factors and hence protection and maintenance of stem cells is of great importance. Epigenetic profiles regulate the gene expression in stem cells, which enable cells to stabilize and maintain different characteristics despite containing the same genomic material. This is achieved by chromatin remodeling by DNA methylation (gene silencing), post-translational modification of histone proteins (e.g., acetylation for transcriptional competence) or mRNA inactivation through micro RNAs or small interfering RNA (siRNA).
High-Priced ProductsMarketers are presenting stem cell creams as the future of skin care. This article will review major stem cell-based antiaging consumer products and the science surrounding stem cell technology. Amatokin is available from Voss Laboratories in collaboration with Beilis Development Company. It has a hefty price tag of 190 euros or $258 per 30ml. Less expensive is Christian Dior’s Capture R 60/80 XP cream, which still costs more than $100 for 30ml. StimulCell from N.V.Perricone retails for $155 for 1.7fl.oz. Another product based on cellular tune-up action that is similar to stem cell is Estée Lauder’s Re-Nutriv, which costs approximately $130. But the costliest product is ReVive’s Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit. It comes in a lucite cube that houses four small silver tubes. A onemonth supply of this super serum costs $1,500…can you believe it? The company insists that the high cost is because of a telomerase which is a bio-engineered enzyme costing about $4 million per gram.
Actives and ClaimsAlthough all of these products make similar claims, their backgrounds are quite different. For example, Amatokin got its start in 1988 when Russian scientist Taras Nikolaev from the Biotechnical Institute in Moscow and St. Petersburg studied peptide research to accelerate wound healing and skin repair. His team created a polypeptide with the ability to stimulate dormant stem cells in the skin, rejuvenate the skin and speed healing—truly a bold, astonishing claim. Amatokin is the first topical polypeptide that lights up stem cell markers (the means by which cell activity is measured). The polypeptide acts as a catalyst when it comes into contact with the upper keratinocyte cells of the epidermis, initiating a molecular signaling cascade that produces the increase in activity which was measured by the stem cell markers.2
In the case of StimulCell, young, undamaged cells were created by applying chemically reproducible oxidative stress to stem cells, which forces them to pump out
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145 different proteins, carbohydrates and lipids. These materials are protect cells and relay regenerating messages, according to Dr. Perricone. For Dior Capture R 60/80 XP crème, the active is a vitamin E derivative called alpha-tocopheryl phosphate, which creates a protective shield. ReVive Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit has an enzyme active called telomerase, which was first discovered in 1984, according to Bays Brown, the brand’s founder. Finally, Re-Nutriv contains a stabilized version of reservatrol, an antioxidant produced by some plants to ward-off fungi and bacteria. Amatokin initiates the release of very powerful growth factors responsible for cell proliferation, according to Louie Rinaldi of Voss Laboratories.
According to R. Ghadially a dermatologist and skin stem cell specialist at the University of California at San Francisco’s Institute for Regeneration Medicine, this product increased the expression of certain stem cell markers. We only know what those markers indicate in embryonic cells. It has not been proven that they have the same correlation in adult cells. It is very promising, but more work needs to be done. His lab is conducting independent research on whether the markers in question do in fact indicate the presence of adult stem cells.3
How it WorksAmatokin highlights the expression of stem cell markers in the skin to reduce the appearance of serious wrinkles. It focuses on using polypeptides and enzymes to “awaken” the body’s own reservoir of stem cells. We only know what those markers indicate in embryonic cells. There is no proof that the same holds true in adult cells. While very promising, more work needs to be done.StimulCell contains cell-protecting and regenerating messengers. When the product is applied topically, these messengers reportedly attach to skin cells, signaling them to begin the reparative process. In one study, Dr. Perricone’s product reduced acne, skin damage and wrinkles using the cell’s own messengers. A cell is carefully guided toward rejuvenation.
In an in-vitro study by Dior, the alpha-tocopheryl phosphate in Capture R60/80 XP reduced the number of stem cells lost in the epidermis after sun exposure. The company recruited 30 women scheduled for facelifts and asked them to use the cream on one cheek for two months before surgery. The treated skin showed 19% more epidermal cells. Rather than purporting to stimulate stem cells, this product makes rather modest claims that it protects and prolongs the functioning of the stem cells. The company asserts that the product’s effectiveness is due to Stemsome, a sophisticated delivery system that transports ingredients into the skin. The system envelops each active ingredient in multi-stacked layers, which progressively melt as they are absorbed by the skin, releasing the active ingredient. According to Edouard Mauvais-Jarvis, director of scientific communications, each time a layer melts, the next one opens, enabling the ingredients to reach their target deep within the skin. This technology doesn’t enhance the cells in any way, it merely creates a more beneficial environment to allow the stem cells to play their optimum role in regulating the skin.
ReVive Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit’s efficacy is due to telomerase, an enzyme that aids DNA replication to prevent chromosomal strands from losing bits of information when they split, thus warding off genetic mutations. When applied topically, it can also send a signal to stem cells, rallying them to respond as they would to an injury. Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), a protein found naturally in the human body that is released from the cells after injury to increase cell turnover, does accomplish regeneration of aging skin. The product does not alter the body’s natural functions nor changes skin in any abnormal way. It does not add or inject stem cells into the skin. It merely stimulates and accelerates a natural process. It purports to
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convert resting adult stem cells to newly minted skin cells. The active in Re-Nutriv, reservatrol, extends the life of cells, actually slowing down turnover rather than speeding it up—possibly the best way to ward-off cell breakdown.
DiscussionSome observers complain that Amatokin, and any other ingredient that causes cells to multiply, could cause cancer due to cell division. “You don’t want a signal that just says: ‘turn on’ to stem cell activity. That’s like a car that just has a gas pedal—it could be dangerous, resulting in overproduction, potentially even cancer,” agreed Dr. Perricone. “You want cells that turn on, cells that moderate, cells that suppress activity, cells that steer.”
However such fears are dismissed because you are stimulating adult stem cells which start as pristine, unformed cells. Given the proper environment, they undergo a maturation process to become a new cell and then migrate, through cellular communication, to the area of damage, telling the fibroblast cells, “it is time for you to die, I am here to take your place.”
So, you get a brand new cell replacing an old, aging cell that is removed naturally from the body. Stem cells’ low rate of division is actually a protective measure, according to Dr. Geraldine Guasch, a researcher at Rockefeller University, New York, NY. The more cells divide, the greater their chance of DNA mutation. Cancer is basically the result of haywire cell production. Mutated stem cells may cause cancers to grow back even after chemotherapy, which could make skin stem cells’ inherent accessibility more of a bane than a benefit.
Susceptibility to UVdamage could mean they are prey to even more mutations than internal cells. In skin, it has not been demonstrated yet that a stem cell can be the start of cancer. If a company claimsto increase stemcell activity, Dr. Guasch wants proof that the chromosomes of these new cells do not accumulate mutations.
Besides, as Dennis Gross, a New York City dermatologist, points out, anything that alters cellular activity, constitutes a drug claim and require FDA approval. Dr. Perricone is considering equipping his Madison Avenue flagship boutique with a machine that would enable him to harvest and store clients’ individual stem cells— other innovators are focusing on preserving the cells we already have.1Some experts question whether the enzyme found in ReVive Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit truly ignites stem cell differentiation. Telomerase plays a role in some, but probably not all, stem cells, says Amy Wagers, a principal faculty member of the Harvard Stem Cell Institute in Cambridge, MA. Dr. Wagers is not familiar with any data suggesting it directs their differentiation or wakes them up. Regarding before and after photos that show a dramatic improvement in skin tone and texture with fewer fine lines, Dr. Gross noted that many active ingredients work on skin cells to stimulate them to make byproducts like collagen. This is very different from stem cell technology in which the cells themselves form tissue. Meanwhile, with the debut of Capture R60/80 XP, Christian Dior became the first global luxury brand to tap into stem cell technology.
Storage BanksRecently two teams of researchers transformed ordinary skin cells into batches of cells that look and act like embryonic stem cells— those master cells that give rise to every cell and tissue in the body. Moreover, they accomplished that without cloning technology or embryos. Dr. Shinya Yamanaka of Kyoto University, Japan, recently said that creating a bank to store a new type of stem cell produced from donor’s ordinary skin cells could reduce time and money for treating patients. This research
176 Do Stem Cells Hold the Key To Younger-Looking Skin?
makes it possible to reset an aging cell to become an entirely new being, and may give rise to powerful anti-aging actives in the future. Several companies, including Bio Eden, C’elle, Neostem and Store A Tooth, provide stem cell extraction and storage services, though viable therapies may be years away.
Apple Stem CellsMibelle Biochemistry launched an anti-aging active based on an extremely rare form of apple stem cells. It promises to protect skin stem cells and slow the senescence of hair follicles. In vivo and in vitro tests proved that the ingredient, PhytoCell TecMalus Domestica, boosted the production of human stem cells, protected them from stress and decreased facial wrinkle depth. It also delayed the aging of the hair follicles, suggesting a possible use in anti-aging hair preparations.
Not everyone is convinced that stem cell creams are the future of anti-aging. There are not enough published scientific data available to support its safety and efficacy in skin care products at this time. Stem cells are very popular, but many dermatologists remain skeptical. Alan Matarasso, a cosmetic plastic surgeon in New York City, noted that the theory of stem cells sounds good but the question is, whether or not a topically- applied cream can send signals to activate these stem cells. Until there are double-blind clinical studies, their efficacy is unproven. Ultimately it is up to the consumer to decide if the results live up to all the hype. According to David Colbert, a New York City dermatologist, it may be premature to choose a stem cell cream over one with, say, time-proven retinols or hydroxyl acids. Stem cell research is still very young. There is much more information to unravel. Nanotechnology, DNA and now stem cell technology have all recently entered the skin care category. My concern is that these highly scientific technologies are marketed to consumers at ridiculously high price. No one is looking seriously at whether the drug-like claims that are being made for these technologies are truly accurate or if their long-term use would put the consumer’s health and safety at risk.
References:1. Stem cells, P. Jones, Nov. 2007, SPC.2. L. Rinaldi, Voss Laboratories, Salt Lake City, Utah.3. Investigation, micromanagement, M. Bullock, Elle, Dec. 2007.
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NEW ANTI-AGING BENEFITS EMERGE FOR PROBIOTICS
How does smearing yogurt all over your face lead to a clearer complexion and softer, smoother skin that’s less prone to breakouts? This column examines the science surrounding the multibillion-dollar probiotics market.
According to the Health and Wellness Trends database, global probiotic product sales are expected to soar from $15.9 billion in 2008 to more than $32 billion in 2014.
Probiotic means “in favor of life.” They are defined by the World Health Organization as living microorganisms or good bacteria which, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host.
Oral probiotic supplements are well recognized for protecting the gut’s microflora and supporting the body’s immune system. Healthy bacteria in the gut improve overall health and, consequently, help slow the aging process, enabling skin to retain its youthful glow much longer. Researchers may reason that topical use of probiotics will confer similar protective balance to the skin, and therefore help keep skin strong, healthy and age resistant.
We all know that skin hosts friendly bacteria. Probiotics work to protect this environment by replacing lost bacteria and preventing further loss with a fully functioning and thriving probiotic environment, making skin balanced, calmer and more resistant to aging. Given that the good-bad interaction of bacteria takes place on the skin’s surface, deep penetration of topical probiotics is not a huge concern. These topical probiotics need not be absorbed too deeply into the stratum corneum, but rather would be more effective if they stayed on the upper layer of the epidermis.
Products and ClaimsConsumer magazines, websites and blogs are rife with details about how applying yogurt on the face, billed as a “yogurt facial,” improves the complexion. This is due to the lactic acid found in yogurt, which gently soothes, smoothes and exfoliates skin. The good bacteria in yogurt help to combat pathogenic bacteria that may be at the root, or at least exacerbating areas of redness and swelling. Some spas combine yogurt with dried orange peel powder in their facial preparations, which is rinsed off the face after leaving on for 15 minutes.
Probiotics are also incorporated into cleansers or masks. All these anecdotal probiotic topical treatments have been around for years because they have consumer benefits, thus proving that yogurt is surely an effective beauty boost. In health food
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stores, we find probioticbased personal care products such as soaps and lotions. British skin care company Nude was the first to develop and launch a whole line of skin care around friendly bacteria. Clinique, Lancôme, Burt’s Bees, Bioelements Chatecaille, Amala and Revive are just a few of the brands injecting probiotics into anti-aging serums and moisturizers in the belief that they help soothe and plump skin and can even turn back the clock.
Clinique’s Probiotic Anti-Aging Serum contains lactobacillus bifidus cultures encased in soy and milk proteins to help ward off wrinkles and irritation by keeping the skin’s bacterial balance in check. Clinique holds a patent on lactobacillus in cosmetics. Its Redness Solutions Makeup SPF15 helps alleviate mild and moderate rosacea while concealing facial flush.
Burt’s Bees’ intense hydration cream cleanser is also formulated with probiotics, which are said to boost skin’s protective bacterial layer.
L’Oréal Paris Youth Code Serum Intense delivers Biolysat, a concentrated probiotic, with other ingredients that improves barrier function while prompting skin cells to behave like younger versions of themselves.
Amala Rejuvenating Face Cream encourages the growth of good bacteria with pH-normalizing lactic acid, while silver sulfite fights the bad bugs.
The Doctors’ OpinionsThere is no unanimous agreement among dermatologists regarding topical anti-aging benefits of probiotics. Richard Gallo, MD, chief of the division of dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, notes that beneficial bugs live in our bodies and help fight off myriad diseases, making them extremely important to us. So why is there difficulty accepting that perhaps the bacteria living on skin are also beneficial to us? We have good and bad bacteria on our skin, just as they are in our gut, according to Ellen Marmur, MD, an associate professor of dermatology and genetics at the Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City.
“If the balance is off-kilter, it can result in acne or rosacea,” explained Dr. Marmur. “The right bacteria may also keep skin young.”
Nick Lowe, a consultant and dermatologist, agrees that probiotics have applications in skin care, but more research is needed.
“There is a lot of hope and hype with probiotics. There is some evidence, probiotics help with eczema and acne, the research is not there yet to prove, it can be anti-aging,” said Lowe. “People should understand that normal healthy skin has its own very good system for managing bacteria. As far as turning back the clock, we will have to wait and see.”
Scientists at the 2007 World Congress of Dermatology produced data showing that probiotics help your body build a better barrier for the skin and gut. Leslie Baumann, MD, a dermatologist, recognizes the potential of helpful bacteria to treat skin disorders. However, the bacteria in your colon are not the same as those on your skin, so you can’t make the leap that if probiotics work internally they are going to work topically.
Research StudiesAccording to a study published in a recent issue of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Nov-Dec 2012; 63(6):385-95), certain types of probiotics are good for the skin. Researchers drew the conclusion that probiotics can really work if you use enough of the right kind. The bad news is that yogurt won’t have the same effect because it contains lactobacillus casei a different kind of probiotic. If you want to get the right kind (lactobacillus plantarum) from natural food products, you would have to rub sauerkraut, pickles, brined olives, or sourdough on your face.
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According to Natural Solutions (Jul. 2008, issue 109, p.89), probiotics can clear up one’s complexion. Authors concluded that when the good bacteria enter the body, they strengthen the skin’s acid mantle and protects the outermost layer of the skin from pathogens and free radicals.
Basic Food and Drug Administration (FDA) guidelines for probiotic use suggest less than 1000 CFU except for eye area products, where the suggested limit is less than 500 CFU. It is estimated that most cosmetic use for probiotics is around 10 CFU.
More Research Is NeededResearch is emerging to explain how probiotics interact with skin as well as which strains are most beneficial and whether topical or oral preparations work best. We do not know how many microorganisms that naturally reside on the skin are friendly and beneficial and combat the inflammation that causes premature aging and wrinkling, just as they reduce gut inflammation.
There will always be a market for anti-aging products with bioactive natural actives. Their popularity is due, in part, to consumer perception that natural ingredients are well suited for soothing problem skin. Consumers believe that harsh, chemically-derived products are strictly verboten for anyone with irritated skin. These consumers reason that these chemicals disrupt skin’s healthy eco-balance of the skin, strip and irritate it.
Health and Beauty Benefits of CurcuminEven though primary role of spices is to impart flavor to food, there is a lot of scientific evidence that they are indeed used as medicines. We all know, for example, spices such as garlic to have a reputation for being good for the heart and combating infections, while cinnamon has anti-diabetic effects. And who has not heard of the idea of consuming a cup of warm ginger tea to sooth a sore throat and treat colds and nausea?
In the market research study, “Specialty Actives in Personal Care 2011: U.S. Market Analysis and Opportunities,” Kline & Company found that sales of specialty actives in the US reached nearly $240 million in 2010. Botanical actives are the largest category of specialty actives, with a 38% share of the market.
This column will briefly discuss turmeric, a golden yellow spice from the East that is known to bring beauty, good health and good luck to those who use it and carry it, according to an old Indian folk song. Indian brides and grooms ritually shower with turmeric powder and milk before marriage to make skin look smooth and more beautiful. Turmeric has been considered “skin food” for thousands of years in India and Far East Asia. Curcumin, a yellow pigment found in the root of the tropical turmeric plant, Curcuma longa, has both a water soluble component turmerin and a lipid soluble component, curcumin.1Curcumin has been shown to have a wide range of pharmaceutical benefits that include antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti- carcinogenic, antibacterial, and wound healing properties and consequently it has broad range of clinical applications.2 Dermatologically, it is used for prevention and treatment of psoriasis, acne, wounds, burns, eczema, photo-damage and photo-aging.3
Antioxidant: Turmeric has very high antioxidant levels. It is a very potent scavenger of reactive oxygen species ROS, including superoxide anion radicals, hydroxyl radicals and nitrogen radicals.4 According to the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) database, culinary spices have some of the highest ORAC values by weight. This makes them a valuable part of a high antioxidant diet which has been linked to a number of positive health
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outcomes, including cardiovascular and brain health. Turmeric’s antioxidant activity resides with its phenolic fraction curcuminoids.
Anti-Inflammatory: Inflammation represents one of the hottest areas of medical research. Three herbal remedies with anti-inflammatory benefits are ginger, turmeric and Boswellia. Curcumin’s powerful anti-inflammatory property with few toxic side effects is validated in a numerous clinical studies that have been reported in various scientific journals.5 Curcumin has long been employed in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine as an anti-inflammatory agent. Curcuminoids reportedly inhibit enzymes, which participate in the synthesis of inflammatory mediators leukotrienes and prostglandins derived from arachadonic acid. Topically used, turmeric can reduce localized inflammation associated with burns, eczema and psoriasis.
Wound Healing: According to the University of Maryland Medical Center, turmeric has both antiviral and antibacterial properties that speeds up woundhealing and prevent infection. In India, Johnson & Johnson sells BandAids infused with turmeric powder as it is reputed to help heal wounds. Turmeric, when mixed with aloe vera, soothes burns and helps heal red, irritated eczematous skin.
Skin cancer: Curcumin reduces healing delays caused by radiation and other injuries.7 It blocks tumor necrosis factor (TNF), a natural chemical, which contributes to cancer, arthritis and is resistant to chemotherapy drugs. Curcumin has been exhaustively studied for its potential chemo-preventive activity.8 It slows the progression of cancerous cells throughout the body, including breast, esophagus and skin. According to Razelle Kurzrock, an investigator at M.D. Anderson Cancer Center in Houston, curcumin could be very potent in terms of killing tumor cells. According to data, it diminishes the severity of radiation dermatitis, a common adverse event in cancer patients undergoing radiation therapy.
Products: There are many foodinspired cosmetic products currently available, but with only a token level of food ingredient in the formula which cannot provide any meaningful benefit. Maintaining stability and bioavailability through the manufacturing process represents a challenge. Furthermore, curcumin has classic distinct characteristic pungent odor and intense yellow color such that it could stain teeth, clothing and whatever it comes in contact with, making it impossible to develop cosmetically elegant products. However, the yellowish tint can be ameliorated by using tetrahydrocurcumin (colorless grade), which has been shown to slow the synthesis of melanin, making it a potential skin lightener. It is still unknown what is the optimum use concentration, stability, co-actives, vehicles and emulsifiers that would result in a most effective product.
Despite curcumin’s obvious negative sensory attributes, consumers find these products in the global marketplace, particularly in India.9
ConclusionAll published literature show that turmeric is one of the most aggressively studied herb for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV damage reducing, slowing down the accumulation of age related pigments in the skin, cancer protective and antiaging benefits. More clinical studies are still needed to study curcumin’s effect on human skin.
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References:1. Cohly etal. Free Radic. Biol. Med. 1998; 24-492. M. Singh et al. Life Sci: 78, 2081-2087(2006)3. Br. J. dermatol. 2000;143:937-49; phytother. Res. 2003:17:987-10004. Conney AH et al. Adv. Enzyme regul. 1991;31:3855. Indian J. Med. Res. 1982:75:574-86. Skin Therapy Lett.2000:5:1-2,57. J. Wound Care 2004:13:107-98. Mutat. Res.1999;428:305-279. Skin Pharmacol. Appl. Skin Phy.2001;14:373-85
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UNDERSTANDING ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF MUSHROOMS
There are nearly 150,000 different known species of mushrooms in the world. Some of the most popular are shiitake, reishi, maitaki, enoki, oyster, lion’s mane, hericium erinaceous, coriolus versicolor, cordyceps, cloud, chager,
cremini, astragalus, agarikon and agaricus.All of them contain polysaccharides, those long-chain molecules composed of
sugar units, which seem to be responsible for their action as immunopotentiators. Many ancient civilizations used mushrooms for more than just food. They believed mushrooms had significant healing powers.
Mushrooms are fungi, and they do not belong to the plant or animal kingdom. Whereas plants reproduce with seeds, mushrooms rely on spores. These fungi break down dead organic material and continue the cycle of nutrients through the ecosystem.
Anti-Aging PropertiesTopical applications of a variety of mushrooms, such as shiitake, maitake and tremella are used widely for their skin beautifying qualities. They contain antioxidants as well as compounds that have anti-inflammatory properties, which help treat many skin problems caused by inflammation and excessive free radical activity. Several mushroom varieties contain kojic acid, which is renowned as a skin lightener. Kojic acid is useful as a natural alternative to dangerous, and often toxic, chemical skin lighteners, such as hydroquinone which has recently been linked to skin cancer.
Shiitake mushrooms contain the antioxidant L-ergothioneine, which helps prevent cell breakdown and helps exfoliate the skin. Shiitake mushrooms, as a rich source of kojic acid, are used to brighten the skin, and fade sunspots and acne scars. Shiitake’s anti-inflammatory properties help improve vitality and also encourage faster skin renewal and increase skin elasticity. Hence, this variety is often found in skin care products particularly those with anti-aging benefits. Reishi mushrooms have superior antioxidant characteristics, making them applicable in a broad range of products to treat pathological aging.
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Health BenefitsMany health food stores carry capsules, liquid extracts and dried varieties of mushrooms, which are promoted for their overall immune-boosting benefits. They enhance the immune system, are anti-inflammatory, and have antioxidant, antiviral and antibacterial properties. Maitake variety contains beta-glucans, which has a wide range of immunestimulating and protective effects within the body. Mushrooms have numerous and diverse health benefits including: treating cancer, fighting infections, treating diabetes, lowering cholesterol and blood pressure and helping prevent dementia and Alzheimer’s.
Dermatological UseDietary substances known to be good for the complexion are sometimes better applied topically rather than ingesting them because, “you can get higher concentrations in the skin this way,” observed Dr. David McDaniel, director for the Institute of Antiaging Research and an assistant professor of clinical dermatology and plastic surgery at Eastern Virginia Medical School. Other experts specifically acknowledge the benefits of these fungi.
“Mushrooms are packed with compounds such as proteins, lipids and phenol and are rich in vitamins and amino acids,” noted Dr. Leslie Baumann, director of the University of Miami Cosmetic Medicine and Research Institute. “There is even greater evidence that some species have strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and tumorinhibiting activity when applied topically, but their effectiveness is not based on the ingredient alone. Extracts must be specially formulated so that they get into skin.”
Dr. Andrew Weil contends that mushrooms straddle the line between food and medicine and can combat the effects of aging, including specters such as cancer and Alzheimer’s. Think of penicillin, Weil says, which is derived from mold, which is a lower fungi. Mushrooms are higher fungi, with immune-enhancing and antiinflammatory effects.
In addition, at the recent Annual American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) meeting in March 2013, world renowned mycologist Dr. Paul Stamets said that mushrooms and fungi are the key to creating necessary biodiversity, by producing a lot of interesting compounds that are medically significant.
Commercial UseCosmetic chemists are taking note of the mushroom’s anti-aging benefits. Popular mushrooms are found in everything from anti-aging serums to daily moisturizers. The extracts are often cited as potent antioxidants.
The researchers at Aveeno, a Johnson & Johnson brand that is known for harnessing the powers of innovative, active natural technologies, created a natural shiitake complex that is featured in the Aveeno Positively Ageless range of products. According to J&J researchers, these formulations have been shown to enhance the youthful appearance of skin.
Weil has developed a mushroombased skin care regimen for Origins that claims to reduce skin’s inflammatory response and calm redness. According to Origins’ studies, there is a dramatic improvement to dull, ashy skin and facial redness including rosacea. More than 80% of those using mushroom-infused products felt soothed and calmed.
Long valued in the nutritional medicines of China, Korea and Japan, mushrooms are now attracting more interest from researchers and clinicians in the West. Mushroom-based products support the natural defenses of the skin and improve
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its appearance by keeping it healthier. Many scientists believe the beta- glucan content of mushrooms offers anti-aging skin care-related benefits. There is a lot of enthusiasm for developing mushroom-based skin products, but more basic research is still needed.•
The Bizarre for the BeautifulThe growing obsession with anti-aging and wellness has led to significant growth of the cosmeceutical market, which is projected to exceed $4 billion by 2011. Moreover, the industry will sustain growth at almost double-digit rates for quite a while after 2011, according to IBISWorld Forecasts.
To satisfy this ever-growing demand for anti-aging formulas, some companies have launched products that contain strange ingredients such as turtle and shark oils, queen bee royal jelly, horse blood serum, chicken embryo and pigskin extract. These offbeat additives reportedly promote skin rejuvenation or tighten skin muscles.
The U.S. spa market is currently valued at $16 billion, but according to Diagonal Reports, the market will remain stagnant during the next couple of years, with no change expected until 2012. To survive these hard economic times, some spas are offering treatments based on questionable ingredients that promise perfect skin, but at first glance may make you gag. This column will review some bizarre current anti-aging products, spa treatments and their claims.
Infant skin fibroblasts are particularly regenerative, which means they can be used for wound healing and wrinkle reduction. Skin Medica uses stabilized human-growth factors derived from circumcised infant foreskin. Another option is bovine colostrum. It contains high levels of enzymes and vitamins, making it ideal for skin care applications. Meanwhile, creams made from bee mucus extract are said to remove and prevent wrinkles and balance skin’s natural oils.
Caviar is a delicacy that is associated with luxury and wealth. It is said that it has the same composition as human skin. It is composed of 70% amino acids and trace minerals. Just one application is said to soften fine lines and wrinkles. Cellex-C’s Bio-Tan Sunless Tanning Gel contains cuttlefish ink that is said to have excellent antioxidant and free radical scavenging abilities. Just like octopus or squid, the glands of cuttlefish contain ink which is rich in melanin pigment and provides the tanning benefits. EMK Placental Anti-aging Serum contains a placenta protein extract. Since placenta contains such high amounts of nutrients, collagen and amino acids, it is suggested that it may rejuvenate the skin, while also promoting increased cell renewal.
In Japan, some people are lining up to drink ground pig placenta. The Japanese believe that it gives them energy and revitalizes their youth. Some doctors have also used placental extract to treat burns. I wonder if consumers would think twice before applying placenta extract-containing topical products on their skin. The hormone content could potentially result in breast growth in children, breast cancer or other serious health problems. Skinscience Antiaging Normal Cream contains spermine extracted from seminal fluid. It is said to be 30 times stronger than vitamin E. This $100 cream may protect the skin from UV rays and help smooth sunburned skin. Spermine acts as a free radical scavenger and a natural antioxidant when applied to the skin.
The Benefits of Snake VenomThere are several products on the market that incorporate a synthetic version of snake venom. For example, Sonya Dakar’s Ultra Luxe-9 Age Control Complex ($185) utilizes a synthetic version of snake venom that works to diminish the appearance
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of fine lines and deep wrinkles while leaving skin smooth and hydrated. Another product, KumaaraOvernight Repair Complex, also uses snake venom peptide to improve the appearance of the face. Syn-Ake is a skin care ingredient supplied by DSM. It mimics the paralyzing effects of snake venom and softens wrinkles at least temporarily.
Biocutis Bioskincare Cream contains more than 70% snail secretion, which reportedly helps stimulate germinal cells, which aid in the regeneration of scar tissue and the reduction of acne scars. Snail secretion is rich in natural mineral calcite, which snails use to repair their shells. This slimy secretion is said to improve the texture of skin too. It may also have some potential in the treatment of bone fractures since it has powerful bonding properties.
In 2009 Michael Todd Cosmetics introduced Knu Anti-aging Tri-Complex, which includes a 90% concentration of real snail goo. The company claims the purified secretion has excellent regenerative properties and helps prevent and correct wrinkles and loss of firmness. Naturopathica’s Green Tea Wasabi Mask helps activate cellular repair, which increases circulation and reduces puffiness. Japanese horseradish contains powerful isothiocyanates that help kill parasites and germs. This enzyme also has antioxidant properties and helps combat carcinogens. Because of its anti-inflammatory properties, it helps treat acne and rosacea; it is priced at $56.
Bizarre Spa TreatmentsFor years, adventurous consumers have applied mayonnaise to their hair, and oats and honey to their faces. But now, some spa owners are taking weird ingredients to a whole new level. Here’s a look at some of the more bizarre spa treatments and the science behind them.
For centuries, geishas have applied nightingale droppings to their faces to detoxify their pores and brighten discolorations. Now, for a few hundred dollars, spa enthusiasts can enjoy the modern version of this ancient treatment. The droppings are sterilized via UV light and applied during a facial. The natural enzymes of the droppings break down dead skin cells. Some spas also mix droppings with rice bran to enhance the exfoliation effects. Bull semen is used for damaged hair. Sometimes it is mixed with katera root from an Iranian plant to treat and revitalize all types of hair especially colored, over-processed and dry, frizzy hair.
For all-over healthy skin, the town of Chodova Piana in the Czech Republic offers a soothing hot bath containing healing mineral water and a dark bathing beer. This curative therapy claims to have rejuvenating effects. Reportedly beer has antioxidant rich polyphenols that works wonders on dry skin and hair. There is also bath side bar where you can sip beer while soaking in it.
The Hershey Hotel in Hershey, PA offers skin nourishing aromatic chocolate soaks, massages and chocolate wraps. If beer and chocolate aren’t your thing, you can try an Egyptian mud facial. Egypt- ian mud is supposedly very rich in vitamin A, E, and essential fatty acids. It is usually mixed with shea butter and applied on the face. It is said that extremely smooth facial skin feel that is generated, lasts for two to three weeks. Gold leaf facials use 24-carat gold to tighten the face and help produce collagen. But dermatologist Leslie Bowmann warns that gold can cause severe rashes because it is an allergen and is terrible to put on your face. For the sports-minded, a softball facial is an anti-wrinkle treatment that involves rolling softballs to massage, tone and stretch skin. After several soothing sessions, facial muscles tighten to give sagging areas a boost.
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Fish FoodThe next time you want a pedicure, toss the pumice stones and nail files and soak your feet in a fish tank so that tiny carp can nibble away rough skin and calluses leaving your feet soft and smooth. Taking the concept of these pisces pedicures to a whole new level, in Malayasia, you can lounge in a heated pool while swarms of nibbling fish snack away at rough spots and deep clean your pores while feeding. Reportedly, nibbling fish exude an enzyme that slows acne and other skin problems.
Looking for a bit more beauty help from live animals? How about a slithering snake massage? In this treatment, snakes of various sizes are placed on your back and left to writhe up and down the spine, creating a unique kneading sensation. If you opt for tiny garden snakes, a 15-minute massage costs just $80. Reportedly this treatment helps with tight muscles and headaches.
Last year, the Academic Journal of Bioresource Technology reported that when bullfrog peptide was added to human cells walls, it reduced the effects of oxidization by 73%. This peptide is extremely effective at attacking free radicals. This material is water soluble, which would make its use possible in beauty products of all kinds.
ConclusionsMost cosmetics contain ingredients that are promoted with exaggerated claims of beauty or long lasting effects to create an image. Slowing aging is no longer science fiction…it is a reality! Creative and bizarre treatments create attention and awareness. Recent celebrity endorsements to these regimens have increased their appeal to masses. These products and treatments may sound strange and seem extreme, but remember, Botox was also considered weird when it was first introduced into the mainstream beauty market!
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SIFTING THROUGH AN ALPHABET OF TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANTS
ANTIOXIDANTS NEUTRALIZE free radicals before they attack cell membranes. They are found in a majority of antiaging products because they have shown efficacy in preventing photo-aging and protecting DNA
damage. Their use is predominant among all other cosmeceuticals. According to Freedonia Group, U.S. cosmeceutical product sales will increase 7.2% a year to $8.2 billion in 2012. This column introduces various antioxidants, their mechanism of action and benefits.
Assorted AntioxidantsAcai is rich in antioxidants, catechins, procyanidins and phenolic acids. It also inhibits lipid peroxidation.
Allantoin is an anti-inflammatory antioxidant. It repairs photodamage and reduces skin inflammation following UV radiation.
Ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, increases collagen production in human skin fibroblasts. Topical application improves the appearance of skin. It is a photoprotectant, and is useful in preventing detrimental effects of UV radiation.
Caffeine, although not a polyphenol, is believed to play a key complementary role in boosting the antioxidant performance of other antioxidants such as green tea and cocoa seed extract.
Cocoa seed extract is a source of polyphenols exhibiting strong free radical scavenging capabilities.
Coenzyme Q10, or ubiquinone, is the basis of super-antioxidant idebenone. Invitro studies showed that CoQ10 suppressed the expression of collagenase following UVA radiation. No side effects have been reported by its topical use.
Coffeeberry is the proprietary name for an antioxidant extracted from the fruit of the Coffee Arabica plant. Stiefel Laboratories has launched coffeeberry-containing products. The company claims that using coffeeberry over a six-week period can result in significant improvement of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles and overall appearance.
Curcumin is found in turmeric. It has potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties.
Ergothioneine is found naturally in many plant species. It has superior antioxidant properties and acts by reducing several forms of reactive oxygen species (ROS).
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Vitamin E is a lipid soluble antioxidant that is present in the skin and is also found in various foods. There are eight active isoforms that are grouped into tocopherols and tocotrienols. Its topical use demonstrated improvement in the signs of photoaging. Topical application has been linked with various skin side effects, including contact dermatitis. It is used in a number of sun care and skin care ranges.
Ferulic acid, derived from plants, is a potent antioxidant and has been shown to provide photoprotection to skin. It has been combined with vitamins C and E and the resulting product has been shown to provide substantial UV protection to the skin.
Feverfew has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties. It may also reduce DNA damage.
Genistein is an isoflavone derived from soybeans. It has a capacity to inhibit UV-induced oxidative DNA damage.
Grape seed extract is sourced from Vitis vinifera. It is rich in proanthocyanidin, a potent antioxidant. It has been shown to be an even stronger scavenger of free radicals than vitamins C and E. The topical application seems to enhance the sun protection factor in humans.
Green tea is extracted from the plant Camellia sinensis. A polyphenolic catechin, Epigallocatechin 3-Gallate (EGCG) is its most abundant active component with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticarcinogenic activity.
Hawthorn is a very potent antioxidant. It is 50 times more potent than vitamin E and 20 times stronger than vitamin C.
Idebenone is a synthetic analog of CoQ10. It has been demonstrated to be stronger than CoQ10 and other popular antioxidants. It is said to reduce skin roughness and dryness, as well as reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Kinetin is a botanical growth factor and an antioxidant. It restores skin’s barrier function and prevents photodamage.
Lipoic acid is a unique antioxidant because it is both fat- and water-soluble and is readily available to skin cells, where its highly effective antioxidant properties protect from free radicals.
Lycopene is a carotenoid found in red fruits such as tomatoes, chili peppers, watermelon, pink grapefruit, apricot and vegetables, to name a few, and is a powerful antioxidant.
Mangosteen is derived from fruit. It has powerful antioxidant and chemopreventive benefits. It is also a natural source of flavonoids.
Mushroom extract contains a variety of compounds with antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties.
Niacinamide or nicotinamide is the biologically active amide of vitamin B3. It has powerful antioxidant, antiinflammatory depigmenting and immunomodulant properties. It improves the texture and tone of the skin and reduces fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. It is well tolerated on the skin.
Plant extracts, ginko biloba, green tea, Centella asiatica, ginseng, rosemary, juniper and horse chestnut have antioxidant properties.
Pomegranate extract is obtained from the fruit Punica grantum. Its phenolic components have potent antioxidant activity. Topical application of the peel extract was shown to restore catalase, peroxidase and superoxide dismutase enzyme activities in-vivo.
Pycnogenol is extracted from the French maritime pine (Pinus pinaster). It contains flavonoids and phenolic compounds acting both as a potent antioxidant and immuno-suppressor.
Quercetin is a flavonoid antioxidant found in various fruits and vegetables. In vitro studies show it inhibited melanoma cell growth.
Resveratrol is a polyphenolic phytoalexin compound that is found in grapes, nuts, fruits and red wine. It sends the body into survival mode, which could potentially
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increase lifespan and help maintain youthful skin. When topically applied, resveratrol protects against UVB-mediated oxidative stress and skin damage.
Retinol (vitamin A) is oxidized into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid, the biologically active form of vitamin A. As a precursor to Retin-A, retinol provides a gentle alternative, yet with the same long-term benefits. Two randomized, controlled trials reported significant improvement in fine wrinkles after 12 and 24 weeks of treatment.
Silymarin is derived from the milk thistle plant, Silybum marianum. It has strong antioxidant properties. In vivo studies have shown photoprotective effects with topically applied silymarin prior to UV irradiation. This property makes it a suitable additive in sunscreen formulations.
Mechanism of ActionWe all know that antioxidants are free radical scavengers. Understanding the entire antioxidant cascade would be helpful in understanding their skin benefits. Just watch an apple turn brown after you have sliced it; the free radical theory of aging is based on a similar mechanism of oxidation. In oxidation, there is the donation of electrons by complete transfer from one molecule (donor) to another (receptor). The donor molecule is oxidized while the receptor is reduced.
Antioxidants are any substance that interferes with oxidation either by blocking or by reversing the action. Free radicals, or ROS, are believed to be responsible for wrinkles, sagging, dryness, age spots, inflammation and skin cancer. Because they contain an unpaired electron, they are highly unstable and react with other molecules. It is not easy to detect the presence of free radicals in the cell. Its half-life is very short and can be picked out only with sophisticated instruments rather than a routine test. There are four types of free radicals namely: superoxide (02), trichloromethyl (CCL3), nitric oxide (N0), and mercapto (RS) radicals.
Blocking the ReactionFree radical scavengers are any substance that terminates or blocks the free radical chain reaction. The use of topically applied antioxidants seems promising. Newer studies suggest that combinations of different antioxidants seem to have synergistic effects and hence better efficacy when compared to a single antioxidant use, as has been shown for the combination of vitamins E and C. Antioxidants prevent and repair free radical damage from sun and pollution. Topically applied, they keep wrinkles, brown spots and other signs of aging at bay. Furthermore, antioxidants reduce damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, reduce or eliminate erythema and reduce cell damage. They play a role in a wide variety of actions including reducing irritation, controlling sensitivity, stimulating collagen synthesis and enhancing the immune system.
It is important to note, however, that there is no assurance that the percentage of antioxidant in a cream is high enough to make any difference in the skin. In reality, antioxidants may be present only in token amounts in the formula merely to retard product degradation. Also, both vitamins C and E are very large molecules, therefore it is difficult to get them through the epidermis using a common cream or lotion unless the pH and delivery system is optimized.
Consumers are aware that antioxidants are beneficial and this awareness has grown considerably during the past few years. New research on antioxidants should bring to light more promising ingredients that may provide new or better benefits.
Today, cosmetic chemists have so many antioxidant raw materials to choose from for delivering specific end benefits to broad range of consumers that there is enormous opportunity for antioxidant raw material suppliers to serve the cosmetic industry and dermatological researchers.
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THE ANTI-AGING BENEFITS OF HYALURONIC ACID
Getting older doesn’t necessarily mean looking old. The idea of growing old just doesn’t creep into the minds of many baby boomers, who are under pressure to look good all the time. New anti-aging actives formulated in creams and
serums make consumers feel increasingly more youthful than their actual age as their outer appearances reflect their inner youthfulness. The ever-increasing growth in new products designed to prevent the skin from aging has attracted consumers in droves to the vibrant anti-aging market.
This column will detail the benefits of hyaluronic acid, which is found naturally in our own skin cells. I’ll answer two key questions, namely: how do we keep our skin youthful looking and how can we undo the damage of time?
Hyaluronic acid’s name is derived from the Greek word for glass (hyalos), which accurately describes its transparent glassy appearance. Hyaluronic acid (HA), is the most abundant glycosaminoglycan (GAG) found in human dermis. It was originally discovered in 1934 by Karl Meyer and John Palmer who isolated it from bovine vitreous humor.1
In young skin, HA is found at the periphery and at interfaces of collagen and elastin fibers. It is thought to help hold together collagen and elastin in the proper configuration. Studies have shown that these connections with HA are absent in aged skin, which may help explain the disorganization of collagen and elastin fibers.2
HA structure is identical irrespective of its source of origin, which could range from bacterial culture, animals or humans. It is a viscous carbohydrate fluid present in connective tissue as synovial fluid, which is responsible for lubricating and cushioning joints.
DermatologicalsHA is non-toxic and non-sensitizing, and therefore can be safely used for all skin types and carries no risk of allergic reactions. Dermal fillers enable dermatologists to inject these naturally- occurring components back into the dermis to restore skin’s volume and minimize the appearance of wrinkles. They mimic the natural materials found in our cells and are injected into skin folds, and deep wrinkles to lift and reshape the face. They are the most popular cosmetic procedures because they produce natural looking results. They are reasonable in cost ($450-600 per syringe), efficient and are instantly transforming.
In fact, injections are the fastest growing non-surgical aesthetic procedures.
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Patients see the results immediately after just one injection treatment. The effects are temporary but they can last up to six months. Side effects are rare, but they include redness, swelling and bruising. Fillers help skin regenerate natural collagen. It is important to maintain a strong moisture barrier in the top layer of the skin.
More DetailsThere are many different types of fillers and each one has different benefits, usage parameters and duration of effectiveness. In order to develop a gel-like viscosity that could possess an increased residence time, HA is crosslinked. Untreated HA is rapidly broken down by hyaluronidase enzyme. Its half-life is no longer than one day. The most popular cross-linking agent is 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether. This process results in HA gels of different viscosity grades.Commercial dermatological preparations are:
Fillers: These are typically HA derived from rooster combs. Another available grade is Hylaform Plus, called Captique. It is similar to Hylaform except it is derived from bacteria. This product has been withdrawn from US market. Restylane is a hyaluronic acid product that is also derived from bacteria. Juvederm, both ultra and ultra plus grades, are non-animal derived dermal fillers consisting of a smooth gel. The ultra plus grade is stronger, giving dermatologists the ability to better treat deeper folds and wrinkles. It also lasts a little longer.
Topicals: HA is important for tissue repair and maintaining skin hydration. 3 HA binds water up to 500 times its weight. Hyaluronic acid does not penetrate the skin because of its large molecular size.4 HA, and its derivative sodium HA, are used in cosmetic formulations for their strong water-binding capabilities. It brings moisture up to the top layer of the skin and keeps skin hydrated. When it is formulated in creams and serums, it provides skin moisturization lasting for few days.
HA has the ability to pull moisture from the atmosphere and trap it on the surface of the skin only, because it can’t penetrate the stratum corneum and enter the epidermis.5 It has been shown that soy isoflavones can increase levels of GAG and specifically HA in aging skin, although the exact mechanism is not known.6
Hyaluronic acid is responsible for maintaining skin water balance, providing hydration, lubrication and cellular function as well as imparting a cushion effect between the joints. It provides a reservoir of water within the skin. In aging skin marked by dehydration, sagging, and wrinkles, a remarkable improvement is demonstrated when skin’s HA levels are boosted.
ConclusionsThe loss of hyaluronic acid in the human body is one of the causes of wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid-injected fillers make skin look younger and improve its tone, making it smooth and supple. Effective active ingredients such as retinoids, peptides and HA are gaining credibility in high-end anti-aging preparations. Regular use of skin care products containing such actives can undo the damage of time.
However, the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid oral supplementation remains some what controversial.
References:1. J. Biol. Chem. 107:629-34, 19342. Int. J. Derm.33(2):119-22, 19443. Sudel KM etal - Photochem. Photobiol. 2005; 81:581-5874. Zettersten EM, etal. J. Am. Derm. 1997; 37:4035. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 113 (3) 35-42., 1998 Hyaluronic acid has strong water-
binding properties
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PROBIOTICS PLAY A KEY ROLE IN MAINTAINING SKIN HEALTH
Probiotics are “body-friendly” bacteria that help balance our “good” and “bad” bacteria to help strengthen the immune system and support the body’s ability to remain healthy. Probiotics are live bacterial culture that, when applied
topically, influence the composition of skin microflora. The first mention of topical probiotics as a therapeutic treatment for skin conditions appeared in the medical literature in 1912, and was termed “topical bacteriotherapy.” It was not until 1999 that researchers were able to hone-in on exactly how probiotic application to the skin might improve dermatological health. They found that S. thermophilus, a species of probiotic typically found in yogurt increased ceramide production in keratinocytes, the cells that create our skin, strengthening the lipid barrier of the skin and make it more resilient to dryness.1
The cosmetic industry studied probiotic technology for nearly 15 years; finally, in 2017, researchers understand how it can help skin, according to New York City-based dermatologist Whitney Bowe MD. Recently there have also been an increasing number of skin care products entering the market touting probiotics. In this column, we will briefly review the science supporting the use of topical probiotics in skin care products.
Clinical StudiesResearch has shown that the bacteria in our gut interacts with the immune system, which results in changes in skin. Harmful bacteria in the gut can lead to inflammation like redness, acne and rosacea. It is advisable to incorporate foods and drinks that are rich in probiotics, like yogurt, miso soup, sauerkraut and Kombucha (fermented tea).
Some prefer to take a probiotic supplement, too. Using a topical probiotic is beneficial, as it offers a protective shield and triggers the production of natural moisturizers in the skin. The October issue of Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology published research findings that middle-aged adults showed improved skin hydration and elasticity and reduced wrinkles after taking a clinical dosage of oral probiotic supplement Lactobacillus plantarum for 12 weeks.
“Scientists are just starting to discern what constitutes a normal, healthy skin microbiome,” said Alan C. Logan, an independent researcher and co-author of “Your Brain on Nature.”
193 Probiotics Play a Key Role In Maintaining Skin Health
It is clear, however that the microbes residing on healthy skin make important contributions to the proper barrier maintenance. They also interact with the immune system and protect against harmful bacteria. A cream containing the lysate of S. thermophiles was found to significantly increase stratum corneum ceramide levels in healthy females after two weeks of application.2 Skin hydration was also improved following use of probiotic lysatecontaining cream.
Through the fermentation process, probiotic bacteria produce acidic compounds like lactic acid, reducing the pH of the skin. The skin microbiome is influenced by pH, sebum content, barrier function and hydration.3 A slight acidic pH favors the growth of proprionbacterium, it discourages the growth of most pathogens. Probiotic strains produce potent antimicrobials such as bacteriocidins, organic acids that prevent pathogen adhesion while more alkaline pH encourages the majority of resident species.
Proprionbacterum species are more plentiful where sebaceous glands are present. Dry areas of the skin have the greatest diversity of species while having the lowest absolute number of bacteria. Furthermore, extrinsic factors such as geographic location, occupation and the use of antibiotics or cosmetics can influence skin microbiodata.4
Studies indicate that alterations in skin microflora play a significant role in conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and skin cancer.5 Researchers6 demonstrated that a cream containing 10% B. Longum lysate improved sensitive skin after two months compared to vehicle control. There was a reduction in stinging after lactic acid, as well as an improvement in clinical dryness. In vitro studies on B. Longum lysate suggest, that it may reduce skin sensitivity by reducing neuron reactivity and neuron accessibility.7
Products and BenefitsAlthough probiotic bacteria have documented skin benefits, live cultures are generally not preferred in cosmetics. Rather than including live bacteria cultures, many of the probiotic skin care formulae use bacteria fragments or metabolites. The reason is that there is not currently any science developed to support the idea that live cells are any more effective when applied to the skin than these fragments. In near future, some brands using live bacteria might emerge.
In 2013, the American Academy of Dermatology proposed the use of probiotics in the treatment of rosacea.8 Prebiotics are nondigestible, plant-based carbohydrates that discourage the growth of pathogens while preserving beneficial bacteria. Prebiotics can be incorporated into skin care products and are an excellent alternative to live bacteria.9 Bacterial lysates are also used in cosmetic formulations. Bacterial cell lysates provide broad biologic activity that can be harnessed to provide skin benefits. Skin care products containing these are well positioned for treating conditions characterized by an altered microflora. Cosmetics containing probiotics may also be helpful for improving skin health and beauty.10
According to Dr. Erin Gilbert MD, Ph.D., probiotics are one of the most cutting edge concepts in skin care today. Probiotics based topical products address and correct a multitude of skin conditions including premature aging, acne, hypersensitivity, dullness, rosacea and inflammation. Probiotics when taken internally help with the health of digestive and immune system. It is beneficial in all skin types. Probiotics have proven themselves to be a powerful tool to achieve healthy, balanced and radiant skin.
Yun Company just launched (April 2017) to the European market two products contain live probiotics: ACN and ACN + creams with probiotic microcapsules. The
194 Probiotics Play a Key Role In Maintaining Skin Health
probiotic bacteria are first deactivated and then stabilized by microencapsulation. Encapsulating the bacteria provide protection against the adverse environmental conditions in cosmetic formulations, thereby improving viability. The performance of the probiotic ingredient can be negatively affected by the preservative and emulsification system in the cosmetic product. Microcapsules provide protection. When product is applied topically, the microcapsules burst and deliver the probiotic. These products are packaged in airless tubes to prevent oxidative damage and are proven to last between six months to a year with no chemicals added to preserve the formulation. All products are biome friendly and they do not need refrigeration.
More and more companies are now entering the probiotic market including L’Oréal and Estée Lauder. Clinique’s Redness Solutions foundation, for example features lactobacillus to reduce flushing by balancing the skin’s pH. The British brand Aurelia is built around bifidobacteria, which is said to strengthen the skin’s barrier, and Elizabeth Arden’s SuperStart Renewal Booster contains a probiotic blend believed to boost skin’s natural defenses.
More Study AheadIn cosmetics, there is no standardized definition of probiotics and this makes it very difficult for consumers to really understand what to expect from a cosmetic product carrying a probiotic label. The health of our skin comes from deep within us. In recent years, study of the microbiome has led to innovations in medicine and health, including dermatology. The clinical studies conducted with topical prebiotics, probiotics and bacterial cell lysates do provide demonstrable skin benefits. It appears that more studies are warranted to confirm these skin benefits.
References1 Bockmuhl D. et al IFSCC 20006:9:1-52 Dr. Marzio et al. Increase of skin ceramide lev els in aged subjects. Int. Jr.
Immunopathology Pharmacol. 2008, 21(1) : 137-1433 Zeeuwen PL et al. J. Microbiome and skin dis eases Curr Opin allergy Clin immune
2013, 13 : 420-514.4 Holland KR et al. Cosmetics- what is their in fluence on skin microflora ? Am. Jr.
Clin. Derm. 2002, 3(7) 445-4495 Salva A. et al. Role of the skin microbiome in atopic dermatitis. Clin. Transl. Allergy
2014: 4:336 Gueniche A. et al, Exptal, Derm. 2009, 19 :e1-e87 Di Marzio et al Invest. Derm. 113(1),98-106.8 SharmaD et al Antiaging effects of probiotics Jr. Drugs Derm. 2016:15(1) 9-12.9 Vermuri R-C et al. Intnl. Jr. of Medical Science 12(5) 387- 396Derm. Times, Aug.8, 2016. Dr. P. Ferris)
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QUESTIONS ARISE OVER PLANT STEM CELLS
STEM cells are found in both plants and animals. They divide and can differentiate into a range of cell types. It is this regenerative property of plant stem cells that has captured the imagination of cosmetic researchers. In this column, we will
briefly review if plant stem cells have anti-aging efficacy, when they are formulated into topical products.
The plant stem cell market for cosmetics is growing at a CAGR of 15.9% and expected to exceed $4.8 billion by 2022, according to Credence Market Research Company. The key players in this market are L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, My Chelle Dermaceuticals, Juice Beauty and Intelligent Nutrients.1
Several years back, stem cells were the marquee ingredients in the flourishing US anti-aging market. But, recent regulatory crackdowns and class action lawsuits have weighed on the industry.
Human-based CellsStem cells are trendy in cosmetic procedures. They are injected along with fat to plump up the skin. In addition to their presence in many skin care formulations, stem cells are touted as an age-reversing ingredient in officebased treatments. However, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recently issued warning letters to three physician-owned stem cell treatment centers in California, Florida and New York. These centers were extracting patient’s own fat, isolating the stem cells and re-injecting them into the patient. All three doctors received the warning letters from the FDA to stop performing these unapproved procedures immediately. Stem cell therapy for anti-aging has not been approved or been deemed safe or effective by the FDA. Furthermore, its use outside of clinical research is prohibited. In recent years, researchers have conducted extensive research on embryonic stem cells which have shown potential to repair damaged tissues and organs. As a result, scientists researched using stem cells in skin care products to help repair wrinkles, and restore and maintain skin firmness and elasticity. However, it is not possible to use live human embryonic stem cells in skin care products, so skin care companies have turned to plant stem cells.
Plant-based Stem CellsLike humans, plants have stem cells, too. In theory, these cells can protect the human epidermal stem cells from damage and deterioration and they can stimulate them to renew the skin. Primarily, botanical stem cells are used in cosmetic products in order to avoid the sourcing and extracting controversies associated with animal- and
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human-derived stem cells. Grape, raspberry, lilac, rose and edelweiss are common botanical sources.
The most promising stem cell so far has come from an apple from the tree known as Uttwiler Spatlaube, cultivated in Switzerland more than 300 years ago. These apples formed a protective film made of stem cells on the surface when the apple is cut. Liposome encapsulated apple stem cells topical cream in a clinical study, reduced wrinkle depth by an average of 15% after 4 weeks Armed with these results, skin care companies swarmed Mibelle Group, a Swiss company that developed this wonderful active. Numerous products containing this active, were launched several years ago in the market at premium prices. These products claimed to protect longevity of skin cells and combat skin aging.
However, some biologists are skeptical about these particular claims. Renowned plant biologist Professor Liam Dolan of Oxford University, observed that he does not see how plant stem cells could react with human cells. According to Dolan, the stem cells found in skin care products are plant-based not human-based; humans cannot synthesize chlorophyll, so plant stem cells offer no benefit to humans.
Living plant stem cells are not found in beauty products, and even if they were, they would not have the capability to differentiate into specialized human skin cells, plaintiffs assert in a proposed class action against PhytoCellTec user G.M. Collin Company. Evidence that plant stem cells in cosmetic products translate to an improved appearance is tenuous at best, according to Tyler Holling M.D., Stamford Medical Center.
Almost all cosmetic products promoted for their stem cell content actually contain stem cell extracts—not live stem cells. Extracts from stem cells cannot act in the same way as live stem cells. To gain all the true benefits from stem cells and to let them work according to the label directions, they must be incorporated as live cells and should remain so in the formulated cosmetics.
There are other issues as well. Plant stem cells are simply too large to penetrate the skin and cannot live in the cream while it stays on the shelf for months or even years according to Leslie Baumann MD.
According to another dermatologist, Richard Hope MD, stem cells in topical skin care products are of no value at this point. The stem cells are plant derived, dead and basically have no activity in human skin.
ConclusionIt is clear at this stage in the game that cosmetics manufacturers using plant stem cell ingredients are severely limited in what they can safely claim without potentially drawing unwanted attention from federal authorities and/or plaintiff’s lawsuits.1
Furthermore, according to a leading dermatologist, Leslie Baumann MD, the stem cells will become part of fight against skin ageing one day, but until then, let us keep the human-based stem cells in the lab and the stem cell skincare products off the shelves.3 The University of Miami is a leader in this field, so it will continue to monitor the research conducted there, and the cosmetic industry will be informed when stem cells are ready to promote skin health and beauty.
References:1. R. Nelson, Executive Summary, R. Sheet 6/15/17.2. SOFW Journal 2008:134 (5): 30-5. Stem cells don’t work in topical anti-aging
products.3. Leslie Baumann MD, Miami Herald 2/23/16
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UNDERSTANDING HOW COLLAGEN HELPS HEALTHY LOOKING SKIN
Global sales of collagen products are expected to reach $9.3 billion by 2023 and the market for nutricosmetics will be worth $7.4 billion by 2020 driven, in part, by an aging population and a growing acceptance of functional foods,
according to a report by Transparency Market Research Company. This column will briefly review benefits of collagen for skin.
The word collagen comes from two Greek terms: kola meaning “glue” and gen meaning “producing.” Collagen has gluelike properties; think of it as the building block that keeps skin firm and resilient. The dermis has plenty of collagen and elastin. As we age, our skin produces less collagen; the lack of collagen is the main cause of wrinkles. The body’s natural collagen production declines mostly due to genetic factors along with lifestyle factors such as stress, sun, poor diet, pollution etc. Initial breakdown of collagen depends on members of the collagenase family that are capable of cleaving naïve triple helical collagen. If you never stopped making collagen and never damaged collagen, you would hardly get a wrinkle, your pores would stay small, you would never get a scar and your skin would stay nice and tight. Collagen is the key
Collagen’s Make-UpThere are different types of collagens. Some are derived from animal bones or skin, and others from animal cartilage. Either way, collagen is a protein and it is very rich in two amino acids: proline and hydroxyproline. Its structure is complicated. The amino acids link together to form long chains called peptides. Peptides are smaller molecule proteins, and thus can penetrate the dermis more easily than regular collagen. The deeper penetration of peptides into the skin improves the quality and beauty of the skin. The five most commonly used peptides in antiaging skin care are Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Oligo peptide, and Matrixyl 3000.
Peptides form even longer chains called polypeptides. Three polypeptides wrap around each other to form a bundle that is called pro-collagen. Pro-collagen then turns into tropocollagen which then is called a single collagen fiber. The fibers are very well organized. Older skin has less collagen and elastin, which deteriorates and hence do not provide the fill and support that they do in young skin. Its destruction plays a role in the aging of the body.
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Depending upon how amino acids are combined, you can generate 28 or 29 different types of collagen. Collagen is a long chain amino acid and the most abundant protein in the body. It is composed of amino acids glycine, proline, hydroxyproline and arginine. In nature, collagen is found exclusively in animal tissues, especially bone and connective tissues. There are marine sources but there are no vegetable sources or synthetic sources of true collagen.
You can rub collagen on your skin in lotion form, you can swallow it as a dietary supplement, or you can have it injected directly into your skin. It is an insoluble fiber that is responsible for giving skin elasticity and hair its strength. Soluble collagen is thought to penetrate skin better. Naïve collagen is essentially a fully formed, mature version. It has a very high molecular weight and it is a very large molecule. Hydrolyzed collagen, generally referred to as enzymatically-processed collagen, is most commonly used in cosmetics. Here, a mature collagen is chemically chopped off in very tiny bits. It is generally well absorbed on hair, increasing its tensile strength and elongation. It is also used in soaps to impart a soft texture to skin. The most abundant collagen in the body are Type 1, Type 2 and Type 3. Type 3 is the most stable and longest lasting.
Leiden University Medical Center in The Netherlands made the first direct link between the amount of sugar circulating in the blood and how sugar molecules permanently bond to collagen proteins in your skin. Collagen becomes crosslinked from long-term exposure to the destructive linear sugars. When glycation occurs in skin, the sugar molecules attach themselves to collagen fibers. Extensive cross-linking of collagen causes the loss of skin elasticity, resulting in wrinkled sagging skin. This is a process known as glycation, and it produces compounds called Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs) that cross-link with proteins and consequently tissues become stiff and inflexible, skin becomes tougher and permanently sags. Glycated collagen is the unseen enemy within. Glycation reduces Type 3 collagen into Type 1, which is more fragile and is less stable than Type 2 and Type 3. When this happens, skin looks and feels less supple and is more prone to wrinkling.
Topical TopicsPricey moisturizers contain collagen, which reportedly replaces the collagen lost during the aging process. This claim is unfounded. Collagen has a molecular weight of 15,000 to 50,000 daltons. Only substances with molecular weight of 5,000 daltons or less can penetrate the stratum corneum.1 These products are usually labeled as firming creams as well as moisturizers, although they have little to no effect on transepidermal water loss.2
Collagen gives skin plumpness, yet its molecules are too large to make it through the skin, it won’t supplement collagen deficiencies. Collagen is the main structural protein that keeps the skin tight and elastic. The loss of collagen results in loss of facial volume causing crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, and jowls on the chin and jaw line areas of the face. To stimulate production of new collagen in the skin, a cosmetic formula must incorporate ingredients that efficiently penetrate deeply and work together to rebuild collagen.
Vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid with concentrations between 5 and 15% was proven to have a skin anti-aging effect by inducing the production of collagen Type 1 and Type 3 (Dermatoendocrinol. 2012). The main action of vitamin C on the skin is direct stimulation of collagen synthesis. It is an essential co-factor for the two enzymes required for collagen synthesis: prolyl hydroxylase and lysyl hydroxylase.3
Topical application of tretinoin can improve the appearance of photo-aged skin by stimulating new collagen production in the dermal layer of the skin (Clin. Interv. Aging 2006). In general, vitamin A derivatives encourage the skin to generate
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collagen, increase cell-turnover, and reduce hyperpigmentation. It smooths skin while promoting the growth of collagen and elastin—proteins that keep face firm and supple.
The Role of SupplementsThey are often combined with other vitamins and ingredients such as Type 2 hydrolysates and glucosamine for joint health; for example, low molecular weight Bio Cell is combined with proline hydroxyproline and vitamin C for healthy skin and hair.The body produces less collagen with age; food makers are marketing collagen supplements as a way to boost your body’s level of it. Meanwhile, research has also linked collagen supplements to improved skin elasticity and moisture. Studies report that taking collagen peptides regularly improves skin moisture level and smoothness as well as helps to fight the effects of skin aging.4
Another study showed that individuals taking a daily supplement containing collagen peptides reported a significant reduction in eye wrinkle depth.5 Study participants also showed improvement in their skin’s collagen and elastin after eight weeks of taking the supplement. Marine collagen peptides can have a profound effect on the biological regulation of the skin and have been shown to boost new collagen production.However, these studies are either small in scope, short in duration or not yet replicated by follow up experiments, according to Dr. Mark Moyad MD, MPH, The University of Michigan Medical Center. Furthermore, there is no clear evidence that eating collagen increases your body’s level of it. There are also concerns regarding contaminants in collagen supplements and foods. Since it comes primarily from ground up animal parts, it is better to check for its heavy metal and creatinine content. Harmful heavy metals like copper and arsenic have turned up in supplements. There are also side effects such as nausea, diarrhea and other GI issues. Moreover, it is not clear how much collagen or exactly which type is most effective.
In terms of collagen supplements offering skin and hair benefi ts, Adam Friedman MD, an Associate Professor of Dermatology at George Washington University, says simply “no way.” He insists, “Collagen is going to be digested by your GI tract, because it is not built to survive the massive pH change in the gut.”
A 2002 study in the International Journal of Clinical Pharmacological Research reported that digestive enzymes and hydrochloric acid break down hydrolyzed collagen, which is the type found in most collagen peptide powders. The same study, also found that collagen Type 2 may be able to slip through your gut without losing its chemical structure.
Medical ProceduresThere are in-office procedures to boost collagen. GentleMax Pro Laser is a thermal collagen stimulator that creates new collagen cells leaving skin plump and firm. There is no downtime or pain and it offers facial firmness. Pro-Peel is a face and neck treatment. Results last from 12 to 18 months. Similar to chemical peels, laser treatments can stimulate collagen production by producing a controlled injury to the skin.
Clear+ Brilliant laser promotes collagen production to smooth away the appearance of fi ne lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone and texture. AMP MD Microexfoliating Roller is easy to use and gently removes dead skin cells and smooths skin’s surface by tearing into it via tiny needles. The process of wounding the skin triggers its repair by producing new collagen to help smooth wrinkles, according to Dr. Neil Sadick of Cornell Medical College, New York.
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ConclusionsCollagen is the key protein in maintaining skin elasticity and structural integrity. For better or worse, they have been used in creams for many years, even though they are too big to penetrate the skin. Still they are good moisturizers.
References:1. Wehr RF Krochmal, Cutis 1987, 89512.2. Cosmetic Dermatology, Leslie Baumann MD3. Kivirikko Ki et al. Acad Sci 1996:3831.4. True Marine Collagen, Research Institute of Biomatrix, Tokyo, Japan.5. Proksch E, et al. Oral intake of specifi c bioactive collagen peptides reduces skin
wrinkles and increases dermal matrix synthesis. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2014; 27:113-119
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CANNABIDIOL GETS HIGH MARKS FOR COSMETICS FORMULAS
Cannabis products are gaining momentum in the beauty industry. Cannabidiol (CBD) is a nonpsychoactive cannabis compound that won’t get you high—that’s the job of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC)—but the stuff does get high
marks from cosmetic chemists. This column will briefly examine CBD oil-based cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals.
The CBD market is exploding, and expected to increase seven-fold to $2.15 billion by 2021 from roughly $292 million in 2016, according to Brightfield Group, a market research firm specializing in cannabis. Five leading Canadian marijuana company’s market value has catapulted from less than $4 billion to nearly $40 billion in the
Collagen molecules are too big to penetrate the stratum corneum, but that doesn’t keep chemists from incorporating these proteins into creams and lotions.
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past year alone. With these growth rates, one can expect the US Congress to pass legislation enabling US companies to accelerate their efforts to sell hemp-derived products including CBD.
CBD oil is extracted from cannabis and is used in topical and oral preparations sold for its relaxation and pain control properties and to even treat diseases. Right now, CBD is being marketed as a cosmetic and supplement ingredient. CBD oil is not to be confused with hemp oil, which is extracted from a different part of the plant and contains little to no CBD or THC. CBD has become one of the most intriguing and notable compound in the field of natural health. It is responsible for the vast majority of the health benefits cannabis has to offer. Some motivated consumers are drawn to CBD topical products largely for their pain relieving properties. The Cannabis plant come in several varieties and has dozens of uses including making of food products, oils, paper, ropes and textiles. Hemp oil has long been available in health food store.
Personal Care UsesCannabis is branching out into skin care; balms, lotions, oils and creams created from hemp are legal in all 50 states. The material has the ability to repair the skin barrier, according to dermatologist Sejal Shah MD, who maintains that CBD oil is ideal for eye cream and serum, because its fatty acids are very moisturizing. In skin care, the oil is tapped for its “antioxidant and neuro-protective properties.”For these and other reasons, CBD has become a key ingredient for many niche skin care brands. Perricone MD’s CBx for Men reduces inflammation, according to Chris Caires, chief innovation officer. Meanwhile, Cindy Capobianco, founder of Lord James Company, says CBD can improve skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and acne. According to Vertly Company Founder Claudia Mata, the brand’s lip balm has gained a devoted following.
CBD is being added to everything from gum drops to beverages, as marketers claim benefits such as pain relief and stress reduction. However, large retailers such as Target and Walmart are staying away from offering CBD oil products. They are sold in health food stores such as Cambridge Naturals, boutiques and regional store chains such as CV Sciences and Barleans. Leading CBD oil infused cosmeceutical products companies are Apothecana, Charlotte’s Web, Ildi Pekar, Isodiol, Shen Beauty, Lord Jones, Myaderm, Cannuka, Khus & Khus, Leef Organics, Vertly, Malin & Goetz.
Grow Your OwnFormulated products come in many forms; some can be mixed into different foods or drinks or taken with a pipette or dropper. Others are available in capsules or as thick pastes to massage into skin. Skin care products containing CBD targets CB1 and CB2 receptors. CBD does not attach directly to either of them; instead, it directs the body to use more of its own cannabinoids. CB1 receptors are present throughout the body, but many are in the brain. CB2 receptors are more common in the immune system. The three most common routes of administration are: sublingual, inhalation and topical. They affect inflammation and pain.
Some products are available as sprays to be administered under the tongue. Several CBD oils with different applications are currently available for purchase on line. Consumers take or apply CBD to treat a variety of symptoms, but its use is controversial. Most of them are designed to help skin surface issues such as eczema. Dixie Botanicals, a line of CBD supplements, is legal and available in the US and in more than 40 countries worldwide. Lord Jones CBD gum drops, caramels, “veggimins”, chocolate bars, and coffee are the latest in the nutraceutical field.
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TrialsThe Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology’s recent review of published studies concluded that cell receptors respond well to CBD-infused products, leaving patients with skin that is less reactive and itchy. Jeff Chen, director of UCLA Cannabis Research Initiative admits that much is still unclear regarding the science behind CBD’s purported effects. The knowledge of unique group of compounds found in cannabis, which interacts with brain and body receptors, may contribute to self-reported effects such as anxiety relief and inflammation reduction. Until recently the best-known compound in cannabis was delta-9 tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). This is the most active ingredient in marijuana. Marijuana contains both THC and CBD, and these compounds have different effects. THC creates a mind-altering “high” when smoked or consumed. This is because THC breaks down when it is heated and introduced in the body.
CBD is different. Unlike THC, it is not psychoactive. It has medical and health benefits. CBD oil contains all 21 known amino acids, plus it is rich in essential fatty acids such as omega 3 and omega 6 which are vital for our internal body and skin. CBD oil is an antioxidant that is even more powerful than vitamin A, C, E, or omega-3 fatty acid. The least processed form of cannabis plant is hemp, and it contains the most CBD. Hemp and marijuana come from the same plant, Cannabis sativa, but the two are very different. According to Dermatologist Jeanette Jacknin MD, affecting the endocannabinoid system with CBD can help the skin look more radiant and youthful. CBD slowed the visible signs of aging in mice. CBD is also said to work on warts, moles and even HPV outbreaks because it is thought to cause cell death in these abnormally growing cell groups.
According to Dr. Tamas Biro, professor of Immunology, University of Debrecen, Hungary, CBD contains anti-inflammatory actives, which are helpful for conditions such as acne, psoriasis and eczema. He also conducted cell model research proving CBD inhibited sebum production while normalizing overactive sebaceous gland cells, one of the main causes of acne. And yet, a study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association found widespread mislabeling of CBD products sold online. The problem is that there is no study which indicates the proper dose. According to dermatologist Dendy Engelman MD, CBD might be the ticket to a clear skin too. Many small scale studies have looked into CBD safety. Researchers have found no significant side effects on the central nervous system. The most common side effect was tiredness. Also, some people reported diarrhea and changes in appetite or weight.
Regulators Weigh InThe US Food and Drug Administration recently approved an epilepsy drug featuring cannabidiol. Many states have moved toward legalization of marijuana, which has pushed cannabis into the mainstream. CBD cannot be sold in dietary supplements or added to foods being sold between states. The FDA considers hemp oil and its derivative CBD to be a dietary supplement (not a medication). One does not need a doctor’s prescription and can legally purchase and consume CBD in any state. FDA is concerned about the proliferation and illegal marketing of unapproved CBD-containing products with unproven medical claims, according to FDA Commissioner Scott Gottlieb.
According to Melvin Patterson, a spokesman for the US Drug Enforcement Administration, products that are appearing on the shelves are illegal, but enforcement is not a priority for the agency, which is currently focused on the opioid crisis. DEA considers cannabis an illegal schedule 1 drug, one with “high potential”
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for abuse and with no currently accepted medical treatment use. According to the US Department of Agriculture, CBD extracted from hemp is legal.
The legality of selling CBD to minors is also an unresolved issue. There is generally a minimum age requirement of 18 to 21 for purchasing in states where cannabis is legal. Federal law, for years have regulated hemp alongside marijuana as a “controlled substance,” making it illegal to sell certain extracts or derivatives. However, Federal Farm Bill of 2014, permits states to initiate pilot programs to study cannabis growth, cultivation and marketing of hemp. CBD derived from hemp can be distributed nationally.
Consumers credit CBD with benefits such as anxiety relief and inflammation reduction, but researchers say it’s unclear what causes these effects or even whether they are real. And yet, so many of CBD’s benefits are well known. We can only conclude that there have not been any large scale studies done on CBD. All evidence is anecdotal or is based on animal research or small, short term human studies. Nevertheless, as CBD oil goes mainstream, it is not easy to tell which products will hold up to scrutiny. In the meantime, it is important for consumers to make sure that the CBD they are considering comes from a reputable source.
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CAN YOU DIMINISH SKIN PORES?
According to Debra Jaliman, M.D., pore size is genetically determined and, no matter how much you try, you cannot make pores physically smaller. Generally speaking, fair skinned people tend to have have pores on the smaller side, and
those with olive or darker skin have larger pores. This column will briefly examine, things you can do to minimize the appearance of pores.
Each hair follicle has a pore, but pores can exist in non-hairy areas of the body as well. They help protect skin from wind and cold, flush toxins out of skin, help with temperature regulation and aid in moisturizing our skin. The pores that are found cosmetically unacceptable are usually found on the face, and are not associated with hair.
Enlarged facial pores are one of the most common cosmetic problem and consumers frequently seek treatment to reduce the size of their pores. A pore is the pathway for oil to reach the surface of skin. At the bottom of pore is a sebaceous gland that makes sebum
Facial masks help reduce pore size.
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to help the skin remain moisturized and protected. In some cases excess oil blocks the pores, trapping dead skin cells and dirt within the pores, expanding them and making them appear larger.
Pores may be more prominent on the nose, cheeks and chin where one has most oil glands. Pores rarely become infected or cause medical problems. Generally men have larger pores than women. People with overactive oil glands tend to have larger pores. Exposure to extreme weather such as harsh sunlight, cold and wind can damage collagen and elastic tissue which form the structural support for the skin, and without this elastic support, the pores dilate and expand in size.
Inflamed and irritated skin also contributes to large pores. Outside factors such as age, sex, genetic predisposition, acne, seborrhea, ultra violet light exposure, makeup, pollution and hormonal changes due to menstruation, pregnancy or menopause, cause extra oil production which causes further pore expansion due to clogged pores on the face. However, no clinical study results are available that directly correlate these factors with the enlarged pores. This affects the surface and texture of the skin resulting in bumpy, uneven skin appearance. The topography, in turn, does not reflect light evenly, making the skin appear aged and dull. This effect makes the enlarged pores become even more visible.
Proper TreatmentTo properly treat enlarged pores, always choose an over-the-counter gel, mask or lotion that contains alpha hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, retinol and/or fruit enzymes. The daily use of an SPF product is recommended, since removing dead skin cells can make skin more sensitive. You need special products and treatments that can penetrate deep down into the pores and prevent the build-up of oil and dead skin cells. Always use facial products that are non-comedogenic. It is better to start with a cleanser that removes makeup, toxins and dead surface cells.
But too much exfoliation can lead to rather large pores. Consider cleansing skin with a mechanical exfoliator such as the Clarisonic Skin Cleansing System. The company’s research shows that its system is more than twice as effective as using your hands to wash your skin. To temporarily tighten up and, consequently, minimize the pores, use an oil-curbing product daily such as a lactic acid-based toner or alpha hydroxy acid-based pads. Toners usually provide a mild skin tingling, astringency and are traditionally associated with shrinking pores, but they are not proven to reduce the size of pores in any clinical studies.
To temporarily fill in tiny holes, use a silicone-based primer under your makeup. A good primer product rebuilds pore walls and stops excess sebum production while moisturizing the skin, giving it a pore-less, satiny finish, that will make skin glow.
Acne develops when pores clog with dead skin cells, increased sebum production and when bacteria invade the pores. Acne sufferers usually benefit from professional facials that are very helpful in deep pore cleansing and extracting unsightly blackheads. It is important to remember to always wash your face with warm water, as steam will open up pores and unclog them.
Other SolutionsAccutane, a prescription drug that is often prescribed for acne patients, attacks the dead skin cells in the pores and helps normalize the shedding of these cells, thus preventing the development of skin lesions. It physically shrinks the oil glands, making the pores smaller. In-office, laser treatments shrink pores permanently. Dermatologists sometimes prescribe a powerful exfoliant, Retin-A Micro. Inoffice glycolic acid and salicylic acid peels are also used to keep pores clear. A nonablative laser procedure, which usually lasts for 15 minutes, is used to increase collagen that tightens pores.
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Recently, charcoal began appearing in formulas for soaps, shampoos and toothpaste, as well as pore-minimizing toners and cleansers. It cannot clean pores any deeper than most other available cleansers. According to Jeanette Jacknin, M.D., activated charcoal temporarily drains swollen clogged pore making them appear smaller temporarily, and making complexion looking clearer. There are oxygen deep pore cleanser available that claim to nourish the skin while triggering a deep cleanse to purify and decongest the pores, removing blackheads and revealing a cleaner, smoother-looking complexion.
Mary Lupo, M.D., suggests that we cannot shrink our pores with any permanency. The right skin-care products and treatments can help keep the skin clear and tight, making pores less noticeable. Pores are vital part of the skin and getting rid of them completely is impossible.
According to Dr. Kunin, BB creams do a great job of “spackling over” pores in the short term, but can lead to clogging over time. Vibrations are a good way to loosen blackheads and deep clean the pores and as for pore strips—don’t bother. They are as effective as Scotch tape, she maintains. Ellen Marmur, M.D., says that vitamin C protects the skin temporarily from oxidative stress such as UV sun damage, pollution and even acne. It is also a natural exfoliator that cleanses the pores. She further says that you are never going to change the root shape at the very bottom, but you can affect the way it looks at the top. She recommends to her poreobsessed patients, to try products containing vitamin C, as well as retinol creams. Retinol exfoliates, but it also helps the skin function at its optimum level.
There are four million pores on the entire body, according to dermatologist Howard Sobel. And there are store shelves stocked to the rafters with pore cleaning brands that play on consumers hopes and insecurities. Consumers should not panic.
A healthy skin does not store toxins that need to be extricated and the pollution particles automatically do not get absorbed into the skin. They are easily washed off and do not clog the pores as long as common sense skin hygiene principles are practiced every day.
Cleansing strips are not always effective.
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FORMULATORS STRIKE IT RICH WITH OIL-BASED PRODUCTS
Natural product positioning has enjoyed continued popularity with brands looking to nature for concept ingredients such as stem cells and botanical extracts. This column will briefly explore moisturizing benefit-offering plant
oils that are generating growing interest with the consumers. Anti-aging technology is the fastest growing segment of facial moisturizer market.1 According to Sarah Jindal, senior innovation and insight analyst at Mintel, in the past six years 2,862 oil-based facial products were launched globally and their market share is growing in Europe and North America and is expected to continue.
Oil in skin care has been used for thousands of years in the East, but has long been regarded as “bad” for the skin in the West. Of course, oil-free moisturizer is preferred when sebum production is abundant, but oil-based formulations are ideal for consumers with dry skin and they are preferred where skin barrier defects exist. There was a widespread
Tea tree oil is prized for its antibacterial properties.
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notion that oils are heavy, greasy, sit on the skin, clog the pores and are comedogenic. Many skin care products in the West claim “oil free” as being huge positive benefits of formulations. The main ingredient in oil free formulations is dimethicone. Although no single moisturizer meets the needs of all consumers, these products play a role in facial anti-aging skin care.2
An Array of BenefitsThere are several reasons why plant oilbased products are growing in popularity:
• The acceptance of oils for the face in the West has been with cleansing oil products.• They have been widely adopted as an effective way of cleansing the skin and
removing makeup without stripping the skin.• Consumers do not perceive these products to be oily.• Consumers see oils penetrating the skin almost immediately going deep within
the pores, permeating the skin easily.• They do not experience any adverse skin reactions, their skin does not breakout.
No wonder why beauty brands are flooding the shelves with oils for every complexion or concern. Leading dermatologists encourage consumers to use these products because they are safe, deliver potent nutrients to skin, deeply hydrate the skin and fight many signs of aging.
Only 17% of people have used an oilbased skin care product, according to a Mintel survey. But the other 83% should get on board, according to dermatologist Ellen Marmur of the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Hospital, New York, NY.
“The newest oils are intelligent products that can deliver active ingredients to the skin and provide an effective barrier,” she explained. Occlusive agents such as petrolatum, waxes and oils, increase skin moisture level by providing a physical barrier to epidermal water loss. Some occlusive agents impart a heavy, greasy skin feel; to reduce this effect they are combined with other emollients. As with most skin care products, a single oil does not fit all consumers.
Oil OptionsFor acne/oily skin, it is preferable to use a blend of tea tree oil, which has antibacterial properties; argan oil, which is a lightweight moisturizer and squalane oil, which calms down overactive sebaceous glands, explained Dermatologist Jeanette Graf.For fine lines and wrinkles, look for oils that are formulated with antioxidants or anti-aging ingredients like vitamin A, according to Dermatologist Ellen Marmur, who added that, for sensitive skin, look for oils infused with soothing properties such as patchouli, chamomile, lavender, rose, and sandalwood oils. Another option is chia seed oil, which contains essential fatty acid. For uneven tone and dark spots, citrus-based oils are best because they contain a natural form of skin brightening vitamin C. Soothing oils are also effective at preventing the inflammation that can result in spots.
Dermatologist Jessica Wu says that there is very little in the way of “clinical trials” showing the anti-aging benefits of oils; however, fatty acids such as linoleic acid, have been shown in scientific studies to be good for dry skin. Dermatologists say it is unclear whether the antioxidants in the oils penetrate sufficiently to benefit the skin. But since the oils are very light in viscosity, antioxidants stand a better chance of penetrating than those in some other oils, according to Washington DC Dermatologist Tina Alster. High quality natural plant oils are non-comedogenic, non-irritating and fast-absorbing, all of which makes them excellent emollient moisturizers.
Despite their many benefits, however, it is important to remember that topical application of some essential oils could cause skin irritation. To overcome this, it is suggested to use these oils along with diluents oils such as coconut, avocado or sweet almond.
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Oils penetrate the skin to hydrate and lubricate and ameliorate the signs of aging. Oil acts as a surface barrier and protects the skin from irritation and harmful environmental substances such as smoke and pollution. However, as we get older and natural oil production decreases, lines and wrinkles appear. Antioxidant-packed oils trap moisture and help fight the many signs of aging. It is now well established that naturally derived oils penetrate the stratum corneum and provide hydration and radiance to the skin.
References:1. Rowlings AV, et al. Dermatol. Ther. 17 Suppl. 1:49-56 (2004)2. Glaser DA, et al. Facial Pl. Surg. Clin. North Am.9(2):189-96(2001 May)
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NATRAGEL DELIVERY SYSTEM HAS ANTI-AGING BENEFITS
WHEN BABY BOOMERS take a long, hard look in the mirror, many of them are horrified to see the disastrous cumulative effects of everyday living. Smog and other air pollutants, dryness, UV damage and loss of elastin all play a role in
aging. As a result, they’re often willing to pay a hefty price to fight the first signs of aging.New products are entering the market to answer every consumer’s antiaging need.
Boomers, as well as consumers of all ages, are sampling an array of both invasive and non-invasive anti-aging treatments including injections, microdermabrasion, chemical peels and laser therapy. There is also an increased demand for thermage treatment. Available from dermatologists, the treatment uses a radio frequency device to heat collagen.
The heat causes the fibrous protein to build up which makes the skin look smoother and firmer. Maximum results usually take a few months, but there is no downtime and no recovery period.
Less invasive procedures won’t have the same results or last as long. For example, a face lift can last eight years, while an eyelid tuck rarely needs repeating. But shorter term results are not always bad; in fact, they often provide visible instant results and the consumer is in charge of his or her own choice of treatment. Moreover, consumers can be assured that there will be minor, if any, side effects and they like the idea that this do-it-yourself procedure will be less painful and less expensive than a visit to the dermatologist or spa.
NatraGel has applications in body and facial treatments.
214 NATRAGEL DELIVERY SYSTEM HAS ANTI-AGING BENEFITS
A New Idea from Gel ConceptsGel Concepts, Whippany, NJ, has developed a new anti-aging treatment that consumers can administer easily and painlessly. This medically advanced hydrogel system moisturizes the skin to help keep it soft, healthy and youthful. Skin moisturization is the anti-aging defense against fine lines, wrinkles, puffy eyes and dull, tired skin.
How Does it Work?NatraGel works by providing a dual method of skin hydration. It draws moisture down from an external reservoir that is placed on the skin and also pulls moisture up from the skin’s reserves through the dermis into the epidermis. The gel is formulated with glycerin and other humectants to help the skin accept high levels of moisture. The combination of humectants and occlusive agents provide a complementary action in achieving and maintaining deep skin hydration, which goes a long way in offering anti-aging benefits.
CosmeceuticalsResearchers have tested the gel on a wide range of cosmeceutical ingredients that vary in size, shape, polarity, solubility, photo and heat stability. Suitable materials include benzocaine, ceramides, castor oil, glycerin, chamomile, marine collagen, caffeine, mulberry root, camphor, vitamin K, vitamin E, menthol, glycols, green tea, calendula, licorice extract, lactic acid, mango butter, horse chestnut and triglycerides.
NatraGel has applications in body and facial treatments.The company has conducted several tests to demonstrate how NatraGel improves the penetration of vitamins and other test materials. After only a few minutes, the gel equilibrates with the skin, and the test material, such as vitamin E, begins to migrate into the skin at a uniform pace. Some water soluble agents such as vitamin C show an almost immediate transfer to the skin. This gel does not support microbial growth and is well preserved against contamination. Moreover, it was not found to be a primary skin irritant following a 48-hour occlusive patch test.
As the popularity of non-invasive therapies for facial rejuvenation continues to expand, doctors1 are using NatraGel pre-formulated mask over an anesthetic paste to prepare patients for Botox and hyaluronic acid injection therapies. The mask helps to soothe and calm consumers who may be apprehensive, enhancing their tolerance of any injection therapies.
NatraGel delivers moisture and nutrients back to the skin. It helps reduce the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also enhances the efficacy of creams and serums by occluding them onto the skin. Formulated with additives such as green tea, vitamin E and aloe, it could make skin more receptive to these beneficial skin actives.
References:1. S. Bosniak MD, M. Cantisano-Zilkha MD, Sept. 1, 2004, Opthalmic Times.
The NatraGel technology can be used in a range of personal care applications.
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JUST HOW EFFECTIVE ARE ANTI-GLYCATION PRODUCTS?
Anti-glycation has no meaning to most consumers; hence, the claim is usually reserved for higherpriced prestige products that tend to be sold in department stores, which permits some level of consumer education, according to Sarah
Jindal, senior innovation analyst, Mintel Co. This month, I will briefly explore anti-glycation actives, the nature of glycation, how it contributes to skin aging, and what precautions can be taken to minimize premature aging of the skin.
Dietary intake of sugar and refined carbohydrates can accelerate the signs of aging, as it promotes cross-linking of collagen fibers. Cross-linking occurs through a process known as glycation. Once established, the body is unable to repair these crosslinks.
Signs of the TimesThe external signs of glycation appear between the ages of 30 to 35. Collagen and elastin are the skin proteins most prone to glycation, and are the same ones responsible for a youthful complexion. Glycation causes both proteins to become stiff, malformed, deflated, inelastic, weak and discolored. Eventually the effect shows up on the skin as wrinkles, dullness and weakened barrier function. The extent of glycation can be measured instrumentally.
The cross-linked complex of sugars and proteins known as Advanced Glycation End Products (AGE) emit fluorescence, which is measured using a Visia complexion analysis camera. As AGEs accumulate, they damage adjacent proteins in a domino-like fashion, explained the late dermatologist Dr. Fredrick Brandt. AGEs deactivate the body’s natural antioxidant enzymes, leaving one more vulnerable to photodamage. AGEs can end up in organs throughout the body, where they appear to trigger an inflammatory response, causing tissue damage and premature aging.
These AGEs are implicated in several age-related illnesses including cardiovascular, kidney, Alzheimer’s disease and macular degeneration diseases. This process is accelerated by hyperglycemia.
Anti-Glycation MethodsLuckily, it is never too late to turn back the clock. Just decrease sugar intake, eliminate simple carbs and high fructose corn syrup and eat low-glycemic foods such as dark leafy greens and other vegetables, salmon, whole grains, green tea and fresh fruits. The foods
216 Just How Effective Are Anti-Glycation Products?
that inhibit the production of AGEs include cinnamon, clove, ginger, garlic, oregano and allspice.1 Topical retinolbased OTC or prescription products such as Renova, Differin or Avage help too.
For formulators of topical anti-glycation products, there are several clinically tested actives available. For example, the health benefits of Terminalia Chebula fruit extract have been attributed to potent phytochemicals such as polyphenols, anthocynins and alkaloids.2
Another potent anti-glycation is blueberry extract. Blueberries break the self-perpetuating cycle of AGEs and oxidative stress that underlies intrinsic skin aging.3 They protect against collagen breakdown by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that occur as a response to UV exposure.4 A topical preparation containing blueberry extract significantly improved skin tone and smoothness, fine lines, creping and firmness after 12 weeks.5 Pentapeptide-34 trifluoroacetate enhances the skin’s own capacity to produce Co-enzyme Q10. By replenishing depleted Co-Q10 levels, this active protects and energizes the skin, leading to visible antiaging effects. In a double-blind clinical study that called for applying Co-Q10 twice a day around crow’s feet for 28 days, resulted in reduced fine lines and wrinkles compared to a placebo.6 Pomegranate extract can regenerate the dermis by stimulating type 1 collagen, inhibiting MMP-1 and preventing fibroblast apoptosis.7 Overall this active induces favorable changes in different layers of the skin to enhance its healing capacity. Benfotiamine protects endothelial cell integrity from the effects of high glucose levels and exhibits direct antioxidative capacity to support DNA function.8 Other substances that may inhibit AGE formation include aspirin and metformin.9
Following a low glycemic index diet is a good way to improve the appearance of skin.
What’s Out There?There are many commercial anti-glycation topical products available on the market. For example, AmorePacific Time Response Skin Renewal Serum is said to harness the antioxidant and collagen-restoring powers of green tea stem cells. Chanel Ultra Correction Line Repair contains a complex derived from bay cedar trees, which is said to boost enzyme levels in the skin that ultimately restore flexibility to glycated collagen fibers. SkinCeuticals A.G.E. complex targets advanced glycation end products with blueberry extract. Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum contains green tea and niacinamide to address skin yellowing caused by glycation.
Many products contain compounds such as aminoguanidine and alisin, which have been shown to block the formation of AGEs. Aminoguanidine attaches to molecules that start the glycation process and prevent them from binding to collagen and elastin, according to Dr. Karyn Grossman. Alisin acts as a decoy, so it gets damaged instead of the skin proteins. Prescriptives anti-AGE Advanced Protection Lotion SPF 25 contains both ingredients. In one study, skin treated with the product had 21% fewer AGEs after eight weeks than untreated skin. Some manufacturers of anti-aging cosmeceuticals are incorporating carnosine and alpha lipoic acid into products that are making claims related to skin glycation.
Following a low glycemic index diet is a good way to improve the appearance of skin.
217 Just How Effective Are Anti-Glycation Products?
There is no unanimous agreement among skin care professionals regarding the efficacy of topical anti-glycation products, as noted in the comments made by Dr. Leslie Baumann, who is skeptical that these products do not penetrate skin deep enough to actually reach collagen, where glycation takes place. Her sentiment is further supported by Dr. Zoe Draelos, who insists that it is unclear, if topical application of these products has any effect on existing skin glycation or preventative effect against future skin glycation.
While the jury is out on the efficacy of topical products, we can minimize premature skin aging due to glycation by following a low glycemic index diet.
References:1. Dearlove RP, et al. J. Med. Food. 2008.11:275-2812. Rangsriwong et al (Sep. puri tech. 2009; 66:51-6).3. Ramaswamy R et al- Glycobiology 2005, Jul: 15(7):16R-28R.4. Bae JY et al, mol. Nutr. Food Res. 2009 Jun: 53(6): 726-38.5. Draelos ZD et al. J. Cosmet. Dermatol: 2009 Jun; 8(2): 147-51.6. Product Monograph- Peptide Q10- Biofunctional. Ashland 2013.7. Olejnik A. et al. Int. J. Pept. Res. Ther. 2013. Nov; 19: 217-24.8. Diabetes Metab. REs Rev. 2008 Jul-Aug: 24(5):371-7.9. Z. Draelos MD, Cosmet. Dermato. May 2012, Vol. 25 No. 5.
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WATER-ENRICHED MOISTURIZERS MAKE A BIG SPLASH!
Formulators in the trend-setting beauty markets in countries such as France, South Korea and Japan are pushing a new anti-aging active—water. Few compounds are more basic, yet today, water is being billed as the ultimate moisturizer. Luckily for
beauty companies, water-based products have captured the consumer’s imagination, too.The textures are also unique, following in the Asian preference for light gels. For
example, the Givenchy Sparkling range is said to contain a combination of ingredients that effervesce or bubble on the skin (hence the name sparkling). This launch coincides with the Asian introduction during the past year of formulas containing carbonated water. These latest water products can gently cleanse, deeply moisturize and add radiance in innovative new ways. The launches of skin care products specifying the use of water from a specific source are growing, and this column will briefly examine these launches.
According to Sarah Jindal, senior innovation and insight analyst at Mintel, there has been a 78% increase in launches of skin care products specifying the use of water. Some of the most common claims for these products, include moisturizing, hydrating, botanical, herbal, for sensitive skin, parabenfree, dermatologically tested, time/ speed, long lasting, hypoallergenic, vitamin-mineral fortified and anti-aging.
Here’s a closer look at some of the newest skin care launches based on good, old H2O:
Simple Cleansing Micellular Water— French women have The cosmetics counter is awash with water.
219 Water-Enriched Moisturizers Make a Big Splash!
been using these all-in-one makeup removing and skin cleansing products for ages. These waters are filled with molecules called micelles that pull sebum from pores. This water is gentle on the skin and it does not have to be rinsed off.
Perricone MD Blue Plasma Cleansing Treatment—This new release is said to contain supercharged micellular water. It’s a hybrid product of the brand’s Blue Plasma enzyme peel and micellular cleansing technology with anti-aging copper. It basically cleanses, exfoliates, conditions and tones the skin simultaneously.
Laneige Water Sleeping Mask—This Korean overnight gel mask restores skin’s natural moisture level with ionized water and ceramides. The product is scented with sandalwood and rose.
Dr. Jart+ Water Replenishment Cotton Sheet Mask—This sheet mask is like an instant bath for your face. It is formulated with moisturizers, chamomile flower water, water, witch hazel extract, marine collagen and cactus extract. All ingredients work together to leave skin feeling refreshed and quenched.
Smashbox Photo Finish Primer Water—This silicone-free primer water is formulated with electrolytes to increase moisture levels in the skin. It is also passed through a “positive energy field” during the production process, according to the manufacturer.
Aquareveal Smooth Talker Water Peel for Lips—This lip exfoliator is promoted for what it does not contain; namely, alpha hydroxy acids, enzymes or polyethylene beads particles, parabens, phthalates and fragrance.
Stila Lush Lips Water Plumping Primer—This product plumps lips painlessly by coating them in a cooling water-based formula that contains peptides and antioxidants. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind a conditioning balm that smoothes, adds volume and preps lips for color.
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel— This hydrating water based gel is made with hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture and olive oil extract to protect and nourish. It gets absorbed instantly and leaves skin feeling smooth.
What’s Inside Counts!Not all water is alike. Composition depends on where the H2O was obtained— did it come from oceans, lagoons, glaciers, springs, spas, fruits or plants? These various sources of water differ in their mineral content and moisturizing benefits to the skin.
Plant waters are usually processed either by direct extraction under high frequencies or via evaporation technology or extraction using flash distillation; all of them carry traces of essential oils, mineral salts and trace elements. Generally, plant water manufacturers do not use maceration process in sourcing the waters because there is the potential for contamination if the water may come in contact with external water, solvents or preservatives. The water may not remain sterile. Water is the base for Stila’s Lush Lips Water Plumping Primer.
220 Water-Enriched Moisturizers Make a Big Splash!
According to Arnie Esperance, technical director at Gattefosse Company, their fruit waters, branded as Original Extracts, have INCI-designated names and they can be used from a few percent up to 100% in all kinds personal care applications. All waters are colorless, have characteristic odor, are sterile and easy to integrate in formulations without heat. There are several kinds of waters available. He further added that, when tested for their in-vitro biological activity, original extracts demonstrated many anti-aging efficacy markers such as: boosting of growth factor synthesis, growth of human keratinocytes, inhibition of tyrosinase and hyalurodinase activities and inhibition of tyrosinase activity.
Water-based moisturizers are elegant, have good texture and good feel. Their primary drawback, however, is that they provide only temporary hydration, not any long-lasting moisturization. Water is necessary for the skin to maintain its flexibility, yet water irrespective of its source alone, will not increase skin’s moisture level. It can easily evaporate off the surface of the skin. A protective lipid coating is therefore necessary to prevent water from evaporating off the skin. Hence, moisturizers must have sufficient oil components.•
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TAKING A CLOSER LOOK AT EYE-AREA TREATMENTS
JUST AS AGING results in fine lines and wrinkles, the process can also lead to unsightly dark circles and bags under eyes. Eye area problem arise because this skin is extremely delicate and therefore it tends to wrinkle sooner than the rest of the face.
The thinner skin around the eye also has more difficulty retaining moisture and natural lipids. The under-eye bags make you look older, tired, dull, sleepy or sad, and the dark circles take away the overall pleasantness of the face.
With so many products concentrating on treating facial lines and wrinkles, let us also examine a growing consumer concern regarding unsightly under-eye bags and dark circles. This column will examine how and why they occur, symptoms, prevention and treatment. Consumers turn to chemical peels and skin lightening products but they seldom produce desirable results.
While obviously there is no total relief without cosmetic laser or surgical procedure, there were some 220 eye creams and lotions launched in 2004, nearly three times as many as the previous year, according to the Mintel International Group. The cosmetics and skin care industry is currently experiencing tremendous growth, with global sales of anti-aging treatments alone topping out at $9.9 billion in 2004, up 71% from the previous year, according to Time magazine.
Causes of Dark CirclesWe may not like to admit it, but the eye area reflects our lifestyle. A routine of working late, partying, drinking and smoking leads to puffy eyes and swollen eyelids. Luckily, depending on age, unsightly eye problems can be remedied. But before we look at the solutions, let’s examine some problems:
1. The skin under the eyes is not dark. It is relatively thin, making it easier to see the vascular bed underneath. Although more pronounced in some individuals, it is inherited and does not indicate any health problem.
2. Some consumers have blood vessels that are close to the eyelid surface causing them to be more visible.
3. Some consumers have more pigment than others. There is a tendency for pigment to be deposited in the orbital area. The higher the concentration of melanin, the more of a tendency to get pronounced dark circles, and this is hereditary for many people with darker complexions.
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4. Aging, sun exposure and gravity all play a part in causing eyelid skin to droop causing more stretching, hence making more visible the bluish cast of blood vessels.
5. According to one theory, sun damage also causes red cell damage, and the pigment generated from this breakdown, which is further enhanced with additional sun exposure, increases under-eye darkness cumulatively. It is also responsible for causing dilated capillaries to leak, and the breakdown in the skin’s hemoglobin causes blood to oxidize when leaking occurs.
6. Lack of sufficient iron in the diet, acute fatigue or eye strain, insomnia, smoking and insufficient sleep are some causes.
Active MaterialsRetinol and vitamin K: Decrease appearance of dark circles, improve skin texture and smooth fine lines and wrinkles.
Green tea, vitamin A, C and E, B5, ginko biloba and hyaluronic acid: All help to improve skin tonicity, elasticity and moisture level: they fight free radical damage and provide increased antioxidant protection.
Aloe Vera: It is a natural and soothing ingredient that can be used daily, preferably after application of glycolic or other chemical peels, microdermabrasion or any laser treatments. It has some beneficial effect on treatment of wrinkles and scarring.
Bisabolol: Provides anti-inflammatory, wound healing, antibacterial and anti-mycotic benefits.
Cucumber extract: It is known for its emollient, soothing, antiinflammatory properties. It contains high amounts of amino acids and organic acids that are beneficial to skin. It is reported to reduce impurities, reduce oiliness, refine and diminish the appearance of pores.
Horse chestnut, yashabushi extract and hops extract: All facilitate drainage and tighten the tissue around the eye area.
Beta-glucan, elastin, collagen, muco-polysaccharides and hyaluronic acid: All have nourishing, moisturizing and antiswelling properties.
TreatmentsAccording to Dr. Leslie Bauman, director of the University of Miami Cosmetic Center, vitamin K is a fat soluble substance that controls blood clotting. Blood vessels under the eyes sometimes burst, which could be how vitamin K helps. Other treatments for dark circles include bleaching agents, fat transfers, laser resurfacing, chemical peels and retinol.
You can disguise the dark rings by applying a pale light textured foundation cream.According to dermatologist Vic Narukar, morning puffiness comes from water
retention. Fluid collects under the eyes, especially when a person is horizontal. Allergies also cause the eye area to retain fluid, as does a bout of crying (the salt in tears irritates the skin). Dehydration from simple thirst or from excess alcohol the night before worsens the effect by making the eye-area skin look like crepe paper. More lasting bags take shape as the delicate skin under the eye ages and accumulates sun dam age. It grows thinner, loses pliability and falls into a pouch-like shape. Over the years, the cushion of fat tucked cozily under each eye, called the orbital fat pad, protrudes as the muscle that holds it in place weakens. When cheeks begin to lose collagen a trough appears under the bags, accentuating their pouchiness. Dark circles under the eyes further highlight the bags.
Prevention and TreatmentSome consumers use Preparation H, a popular hemorrhoid treatment. It contains hydrocortisone, a topical steroid that reduces inflammation. But this tightening effect is
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only temporary, and the long term practice can thin the skin and lead to acne, premature wrinkling and broken blood vessels.Here are some other ways to improve the eye area skin:
1. Sleep with the head elevated to prevent water and wastes from pooling in the eye area.
2. Cut back on caffeinated and alcoholic beverages, diet sodas and salts.3. For temporary relief, use either green tea bags, cucumber slices, or a slice of potato
soaked in water. The caffeine in tea works like a diuretic to help rid eyelids of excess fluid and the puffiness vanishes.
4. Some of the simple eye bag treatments are aimed at morning puffiness. According to Marvin Westmore, founder of the Westmore Academy of Cosmetic Arts in Burbank, CA, cool compresses can reduce swelling. Cucumber slices are moist and are suitable as are cotton pads soaked in witch hazel.
5. Dr. Anna Glaser, vice chairman of dermatology at St. Louis University, suggests the use of moisturizers because they diminish fine wrinkles. She prefers “eye moisturizers” because typically they have fewer additives, hence they are less likely to cause any irritation. According to Dr. Glaser, products that claim to reduce puffiness, tighten draping skin and lighten dark circles are not very effective treatments for bags under the eyes.
Regarding the use of collagen in eye-bag products, Dr. Peter Fodor, the president of the American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, noted that it is hard to drive collagen into the skin. Furthermore, even if it is possible to erase wrinkles with creams, the bags themselves would remain, which is why people turn to surgery.
Okay, maybe your “morning” eyes aren’t as bad as the ones in this ad for Bremenn Research Labs’ Hylexin, but the product promises to eliminate “serious” dark circles.
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6. Dermatologists say that eye bags can be prevented. Drink plenty of water before sleeping, sleep on two pillows and you may even look better because fluids will be less likely to pool under the eye.
7. Sun exposure hastens the sagging and wrinkling and even the darkening of skin under the eyes, so apply a cream with an SPF of at least 15 around the eyes.
8. Broad-brimmed hats and big-framed sun glasses give extra protection.9. Choose a moisturizer that contains antioxidants such as vitamin C or E.10. Avoid rubbing your eyes and according to Dr. Doris Day, a New York dermatologist,
rubbing any skin makes it darker, so rubbing your eyes makes dark circles worse.11. Smoking narrows capillaries, robbing skin of oxygen and interfering with collagen
production.12. A good clay or mud-based mask is very effective in reducing under-eye swelling
Surgical TreatmentsBlepharoplasty, a traditional surgical treatment, corrects the drooping of lids as well as bags. This operation can be done either in an outpatient surgical clinic or in a hospital. Swelling and discoloration generally subside within two weeks.
Plastic surgery is the only method that will improve this condition. The surgeon drains fat and other tissue from the upper and lower eyelids and sometimes removes the “redundant” skin as well. Surgeon’s fees for a blepharoplasty are about $2,500, which does not include the price of the operating room and anesthesia.
According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, there has been a paradigm shift in eye-bag treatment. Instead of aggressively removing the fat, many doctors now favor filling in the area between lower lid and cheek by injecting fat or collagen, reducing the pouchy look from below. The procedure takes less than an hour, and the cost ranges from less than $400 (for collagen) to about $1,200 (for fat).
Lasers are being used more frequently, too. They are said to shrink the fat pads and stimulate the collagen production.
Some surgeons are moving the fat pad back where it belongs and tightening the muscle that holds it in place, a procedure not yet widely accepted because of the risk that it might impair the eyes’ ability to look down. According to Dr. Glaser, surgeons took as
Is this the true face of beauty in the 21st Century? These days, middle-aged consumers are less squemish about undergoing surgical procedures to obtain a more youthful appearance.
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much fat as possible and patients looked good in the short term, but as they aged, they began to look hollowed out. Youthful is not necessarily tighter. Youthful is fuller, more voluptuous, more three-dimensional.
Makeup Works Too!Dark circles and bags under the eyes are usually not the sign of any disease or the amount of sleep you get, the condition is not under your control and is mostly hereditary and usually occurs with advancing age. The dark circles could be concealed with a camouflage makeup and could be controlled by several suggested methods in this column.
Bags under the eyes could be corrected only by plastic surgery. While eye creams cannot prevent or reverse these conditions, they can relieve symptoms and thereby make the skin temporarily look and feel softer and smoother.
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Chapter 66
BANISH DARK CIRCLES AND PUFFY BAGS
The eyes are the first area of the face to show age. Youthful eyes make your entire face appear fresher. Consumers are demanding problem specific products, as confirmed by Euromonitor. According to Euromonitor, the sales of anti-aging skin
care products are forecast to rise some 18% from $3.2 billion to $3.8 billion by 2017. In the past, users tried to reduce the existing signs of aging; today the emphasis is on protection. This column will briefly detail causes and treatment options to address the dark under-eye circles and puffy bags.
The under-eye area is very sensitive and is prone to irritation. It is almost 10 times thinner than the other parts of the body. It has very few oil glands, so it becomes drier quickly and is prone to irritation. Dark circles are mostly hereditary, however they are also due to stress, unhealthy eating, vitamin and mineral deficiency, smoking, drinking alcohol, ultraviolet damage, veins and capillaries that show through skin, irritation and the natural dark pigment. The presence of all or even just some of these elements, along
Eyes are the window to thesoul…and a window intoone’s lifestyle, too.
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with dry skin that is getting thinner and the pull of gravity, stretches the skin making circles appear even bigger and appear looking dull and tired.
Cause and EffectThe primary cause of under eye circles is poor blood circulation and the leakage of blood in the delicate tissues surrounding eyes. A lack of sleep or stress, also increase eye circle darkness.
Traditional skin lightening products do not have any appreciable effect on dark circles. As a last resort, consumers may consider laser treatment for permanently eliminating dark circles. Ancient Ayurvedic medicine and traditional Chinese medicine, both associate under eye darkness to a diseased state of digestive health. Western medicine also associates under eye dark circles with kidney function. Under eye bags and puffiness are caused by a slow down in the blood and lymph microcirculation resulting in fluid retention along with fat deposits in the lower lid area causing bulging effect.
This effect usually is either due to hereditary or health issues. Wrinkles can be disguised with makeup, but prominent under eye fat pads can only be removed permanently by surgery; their re-occurrence is unlikely. Topical treatments include putting ice-cold green tea bags onto eyelids. Catechin content protects the delicate eye area minimizing puffiness. Cooling eye gel mask also provides relief from red, watery, itchy eyes. If your beauty arsenal doesn’t includes masks, head to the refrigerator. Wrap grated potato in cheesecloth sacks, cool in the refrigerator and place under the eyes. Leave for about 30 minutes and rinse. Place sliced cucumbers on your eyes, cover with damp cool cloth for thirty minutes. Place a satin eye pillow filled with buckwheat and place over your eyes.
There are no cosmetics that can completely alter puffy eyes. Alcohol consumption and a diet high in salt can cause water retention and increase the puffiness around the eyes.
What’s Out There?Products are designed to be light enough for the eye area, yet deliver optimum moisturization. The eye area is usually dry and more sensitive, which is why eye creams are normally formulated with higher levels of emollients and lower levels of humectants. Eye creams tend to be thicker than regular moisturizers, too. Eye creams are ophthalmologist-tested to reduce the chance of stinging or burning the eyes. Eye area skin is very thin, and if it is plumped up, it makes eyelids look puffy.
Unfortunately, eye creams often cause irritation and allergic reactions. Some of the key actives that are used in these types of formulas include kojic acid, low-level hydroquinone, alpha hydroxyl acids, retinol and peptides. A particular blend of peptides (palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide) works by helping tighten the delicate tissue. It is better not to use Retin-A near the delicate eye area, as it tends to migrate and could irritate eyes or even damage them.
The best time to apply an eye-area treatment is at night, when skin is resting. Once the sun goes down and hectic lives quiet down, there are no external aggressions and cells are more absorptive, thus deep hydration and surface moisturization are both accomplished.
More Topical IdeasTopical products mimic the effect of an injectable product or a surgical eyelift by firming and tightening the skin for a youthful look. One unique topical product called Neotensil offers new technology that temporarily flattens out eye bags and wrinkles in just two hours. The product contains a blend of polymers and when the product is applied on the skin, these polymers cross-link and contract, making the skin appear smooth.
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Product residue on the skin eventually transforms into a crusty film, which could be easily pulled away from the skin like plastic wrap, offering a temporary fix, not a permanent solution. Patricia Farris M.D., a clinical associate professor of dermatology at Tulane, describes this product as a fairy-size Spanx-for-the Face, which compresses and reshapes the skin, the likes of which we have just never had before.
The market place is full of products that smooth, lift, brighten dark circles and treat puffy bags. Ultimately, however, the responsibility lies with consumers because to a large extent, both of these conditions are avoidable, and are clearly a reflection of one’s lifestyle.
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Chapter 67
CELLULITE AND SKIN AGING
SOME MARKET WATCHERS estimate that American women spend nearly $6 billion a year trying to banish cellulite.1 That number may be high, but it demonstrates that the market is enormous and will continue to grow dramatically in the coming years.
Today only a small percentage of women have tapped into the market’s products and treatment options, but as products get better and treatments become more effective, more and more women enter the marketplace. In fact, almost 40% of women believe getting rid of cellulite will boost their self-confidence.2
Scientists at Archet Hospital,3 in Nice, France conducted a study to identify the characteristics of cellulite in women of different ages and to learn if cellulite could interfere with aging. They reported that population with cellulite presents earlier stage ageing characteristics than the control population. Well this association is intriguing because how could localized cellulite induce overall skin ageing? I think more research will provide additional information.
What is Cellulite?Preventing cellulite is impossible, yet there are numerous cosmeceutical and medical approaches for its treatment.
Cellulite is the cutaneous dimpling of the thighs, buttocks and hips that is seen predominantly in women. The structural differences in fat architecture between sexes account for its appearance. According to Dr. Mathew Avram, director of Massachusetts General Hospital’s Dermatology, Laser and Cosmetic Center in Boston, cellulite affects 85% of women and is a result of natural fat distribution most likely caused by hormones. According to Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D., a dermatologist in Washington DC, those dimples affect the psyche of women and nearly two out of three women say having cellulite is worse than having wrinkles. Though cellulite is normal, many people are desperate to get rid of it, spawning an industry that ranges from creams to suction machines. The market is inundated with products (Table 1) and treatment methods to improve the skin dimpling that somehow just appeared overnight.
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Table 1: Consumer Views on Cellulite Creams
Here’s a look at how Self 5 readers felt about popular cellulite creams on the market.
Dedimpler The Claim The Tester’s Take
Soap and Glory Slimwear Puff-Draining Peptide Balm, $13
The balm depends on depuffing peptides, which are known for calming tired eyes, to reduce the puckering and dimpling in cellulite-prone areas.
The Tester’s Take “I lost half an inch on my butt and my thighs, and I was surprised to see that my dim- ples lessened after only two weeks. Where can I buy it?” Score: 3.8 out of 5.0.
Bliss Fat Girl Sleep, $38
Packed with lotus extract (which works in a similar way to caffeine and algae, this rich cream aims to help reduce the look of dents by encouraging fluid drainage.
“It definitely made my thighs feel smoother, and I think the the directions to rub it in for 30 seconds helped. It improves circulation, which must be good!” Score: 3.5
Boots No. 7 Protect and Perfect Body Serum, $25
While peptides work to improve skin’s elasticity, reducing the appearance of orange-peel skin, argan oil and glycerin work together to soften skin.
“I lost half of an inch on my derriere. Whether, or not that was due to the cream, its rich texture made my skin feel so smooth. That alone was worth it!” Score: 3.5
Chanel Body Excellence Firming and Refining Serum, $120
Relying on an Indonesian plant (purple bengle) to firm skin by stimulating collagen, this serum also has glycolic acid to exfoliate so skin feels smoother.
“I noticed that the bigger dents under my butt were less visi- ble. When I skipped two days. though, my butt was on its way back to its original state.” Score: 3.3
Korres Garcinia and Guarana Toning Cream-gel, $38
This light gel contains guarana, a plant extract packed with caffeine, which removes the moisture in your skin to tighten and firm dimply areas.
“I was skeptical, but I did lose an inch on my thighs. Even though it wasn’t a total miracle worker, my thighs felt tighter the morning after each use.” Score: 2.3
Luckily, cellulite treatments (Table 2) are getting better all the time. According to Ms. Carole Walderman, president, Von Lee International School of Aesthetics in Baltimore, cellulite is a combination of fat globules, waste matter and water imprisoned in connective tissue. Women are genetically predisposed to develop cellulite since it is the body’s way of storing fat. In men, fat is stored differently.
Causes of CelluliteCellulite forms when the skin’s connective tissues are overcome by progressive fat accumulation in specific areas of the body. According to Howard Murad, the actual cause of cellulite occurs internally with the weakening of the skin cells and connective tissue. Cellulite and stretch marks are caused by skin that has deteriorated and dehydrated to the point where buoyant fat cells trapped just below the skin are able to push into the dermis, the middle layer and the skin and show through the surface. Fat cells increase in size and their membranes become distorted and lose their shape. This results in a
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dimpling appearance and is further impaired by the build up of toxins within the connective tissues. There are several factors that contribute to the causes of cellulite. Some of these factors are age, genetics, body fat percentage, hydration levels, coffee con sumption and smoking habits. In the skin, there are tough strands of fibrous tissues that connect the skin to the rest of the body called the “septa.” This septa anchors at certain points, similar to a net. This net of fibrous septa-tissue exists above the layer of fat in the body. However, fat sometimes makes its way through the holes in this net of fibrous tissue, thus plumping the fat outward. This plumping of fat causes the “cottage cheese” resemblance of cellulite. Many times, even if a woman has a very low body fat percentage, if the skin around that area is pinched, some cellulite can still remain visible. However, most women probably care about cellulite when it is visible without pinching.4 The make up of the strands of fibrous tissue in men and women are different. Also, the fibrous tissue may be tighter in women, which would cause a much more pronounced plumping effect in women in comparison to men.
Table 2: Cellulite Creams and Treatments
Here’s a look at how Fitness6 readers and experts felt about popular cellulite creams.
Product The Claim The Expert’s Take The Tester’s Take
Shiseido Body Creator Aromatic Sculpting Concentrate Anti-Cellulite ($63, www.Sephora.com)
Cream reduces visible cellulite, and chai hu improves skin elasticity by promoting the production of collagen.
“It helps collagen builders penetrate, which improves the look of skin, though it doesn’t actually get rid of cellulite,” says Jeanette Graf, M.D., a dermatologist in Great Neck, NY.
My bathroom smelled heavenly, and the intense, cooling sensation of the cream was exhilarating. But while my skin felt tighter and firmer, sadly, the cellulite is still there.”
Wellbox: the Self Lipomassage machine by LPG ($1595, blissworld.com)
Intensive do-it-yourself massage tool stimulates the production of fibroblast cells, which are responsible for the growth of collagen and elastin.
“Continued use will stimulate circulation for a firmer look,” says Bruce Katz, M.D., director of the Juva Skin & Laser Center in New York City.
“I was like a contortionist massaging the backs of my thighs, but it felt great-especially after a workout. My skin looked less puckered after a few weeks of using it.”
Alma Lasers’ Accent Your Body Dual Layer Thermotherapy ($600 per treatment, accentyourbody.com)
The dual-layer radio frequency thermotherapy delivers energy at different targeted tissue depths to stimulate the production of collagen and to improve skin surface texture.
“Radio-frequency thermotherapy creates lasting change by targeting both the surface of the skin and subcutaneous layer, which is where cellulite exists,” says Dr. Katz.
“It’s not pain-free; occasionally, there’s a sharp, burning sensation. But after just two one-hour treatments, my skin is softer and less lumpy.”
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Clarins Body Shaping Supplement ($74, clarinsusa.com)
Turn your everyday body moisturizer into a slimming treatment by adding 6 to 8 drops of this serum, which contains caffeine and fat-reducing botanicals like agrimony.
“These ingredients can indeed make a difference in reducing the appearance of cellulite, but as soon as you stop using the product, ripples will return,” says Dr. Graf.
“It might be wishful thinking (or the bad light in my apartment), but I’ve seen a subtle difference in my thighs: They look firmer.”
BodiPerfect Anti Cellulite Micromassage Capri Pants ($48.50, bodiperfect.com)
The super-compressed, elastic-blend fabric is covered in tiny bumps that gently massage your skin as you move, increasing circulation and reducing cellulite in just two weeks.
“Massage seems to help fight cellulite, so these may actually work in the short term,” says Jeffrey Dover, M.D., vice president of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery.
“I was super skeptical, but after sleeping in them for a few weeks, I started noticing that my butt really did look smoother.”
Power Plate Vibration Training Platform ($2,500 to $10,500, powerplate.com)
The motorized machine oscillates thousands of times per minute, forcing muscles to contract. One study found using it regularly reduced cellulite by more than 25%.
“You can’t burn enough calories to reduce body fat doing strength moves on this machine,” says Gary R. Hunter, Ph.D., a researcher at the University of Alabama, Birmingham.
“No difference in cellulite, but I did see more muscle tone from doing exercises like squats and lunges, and my flexibility increased noticeably in my hamstrings.”
Some MisperceptionsThe top three myths surrounding cellulite, include:
1. Cellulite is a fat problem. Contrary to popular opinion, cellulite is not the result of too much fat in your body.
2. Cellulite can be reduced through exercise and weight loss. When you lose weight, the percentage of body fat decreases, but there is no measurable loss of cellulite.
3. Skinny women do not have cellulite. Even the thinnest women have some layer of fat between their muscles and skin, and everybody has the bands that the fat can push through.
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According to Richard Felten, senior reviewer and photobiologist with the General Surgical Devices Branch of the FDA, there are no FDA-approved cellulite treatment devices. However FDA has granted companies 510(K) permission to market devices as a treatment to temporarily improve the appearance of cellulite.
Topical IngredientsA typical cream has many ingredients in its mixture, so it is difficult to determine which ingredient actually produces the benefit. Look for creams that contain caffeine, which is believed to drain water from the fat cells and retinol which tones and firms the skin. Yale dermatologist Lisa Donofrio recommends Jergens Skin Firming moisturizer ($5.99) or RoC’s Retinol Actif pur ($18.99). These products exert their efficacy by penetrating the epidermis and the dermis and dissolve the excess fatty tissue. The most commonly used active ingredients include various plant extracts, camphor, eucalyptus, nicotinate, caffeine, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, AHA, retinoids, green tea and algae. The list also includes methyl xanthines. Many brands are also adding the same collagen-boosting ingredients such as peptides normally found in face creams. The methyl xanthine class of compounds includes theophylline, which is derived from tea leaves and is also produced synthetically. The second compound is caffeine, which is also present in coffee, tea, cola and guarana. The third com pound is aminophylline, which is also used as a medicine to treat asthma. These substances have specific effect on fat cells. They break down and dissolve the fat in the cells. It is important to point out that, from time to time, conflicting reports on the use of these substances are published in the literature. Other ingredients include hedera helix, an oily-based extract of ivy which has a decongesting effect on the tissue. Extract of wild chestnut plant strengthens the walls of the veins and also helps prevent the formation of thick cellulite fibers. Caffeine contained in a cream encourages the release of fat into the blood stream. Silicium helps circulation and also stimulates the beta receptors on the surface of the fat cells to aid fat removal.
Dietary SupplementsBy adding key skin hydrating and cell fortifying nutrients in the diet, skin gets rehydrated and rejuvenated. A variety of ingredients such as ginkgo biloba, sweet clover, grape seed bioflavanoids, bladder wrack extract, oil of evening primrose, fish oil, soy, lecithin, horse tail extract, artichoke and seaweeds are found to be helpful. Concepts such as: “metabolism,” “circulation” and “cell damage” cannot be easily measured. Because the products are sold as dietary supplements, they are not subject to the jurisdiction of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
References:1. Skin and Aging, October 20052. Survey of 167 Women by Opinion Research Corporation3. Cellulite and Skin Aging, Ortone J P et al Eur. Acad. Derm. July 22 (7) 20084. Discover the Truth about Cellulite. Johnny Lavot5. Dream Creams, Self, July 2008 (Table 1)6. 6 Cellulite Fighters, Fitness, June 2008 (Table 2)
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Chapter 68
EXFOLIANTS PLAY KEY ROLE IN ACHIEVING HEALTHY SKIN
SOME DERMATOLOGISTS advise their patients to restrict daily skin care regimens to three or four products. Still, most people use too many products at once. The skin picks up environmental debris during the day, which gets covered by
occlusive creams. The end result is clogged pores that, in time, get larger and lead to skin inflammation, irritation, whiteheads and blackheads. The build-up of dead surface cells makes skin look dull, dry and flaky, causing it to reflect light poorly. This effect makes skin appear lifeless. Exfoliating skin care products breakdown and eliminate keratinized cells and restore a healthy translucent glow to the skin. Achieving this glow often requires a thorough scrubbing with a loofah. Exfoliation should be attempted when there are visible changes in skin texture. This happens because the cell turnover slows down over time and using products with exfoliants provide beneficial results. Body exfoliation has several major health benefits—it stimulates blood flow, increases circulation and sloughs off dead skin cells. To keep skin looking good, exfoliate at least once a week with physical scrubs or chemical washes. Good exfoliation brightens and smoothes skin surface, shrinks pores and prevents breakouts and stimulates replacement of these dead cells with newer cells. There are two broad classes of exfoliants, physical and chemical. Here are short reviews of all these methods.
Physical & Chemical ExfoliantsNatural exfoliants have been around for centuries. Exfoliating ingredients range from very abrasive, potentially irritating ingredients such as apricot or walnut kernel and pumice, to gentle exfoliants like jojoba beads, nylon puffs, coarse bath salts and synthetic microbeads. They all are usually fine granular particles that gently scratch the skin surface to remove dead cells. It is important to use them with caution. They should not be rubbed too vigorously on delicate areas such as under eyes. They should be used very carefully on severe acne. For the skin areas with hardened calluses such as elbows, knees or feet, a vigorous use of pumice stone accomplishes satisfactory results. There are many physical exfoliants available on the market. The sand-like granules should be kept away from the eyes, because they could easily scrape the cornea. Sometimes “natural” exfoliants can cause severe irritations or allergies. Most common allergic contact dermatitis results from skin contact with certain botanicals that release oleoresin and cause red, swollen, blistering itchy skin inflammation and irritation. If this happens, prompt relief is accomplished if the affected area is immediately washed with water.
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These ingredients are available as cleansing grains, gentle abrasive sponges, waxy creams, loofahs and brushes. Clay exfoliants consist of bentonite, hectorite and kaolin. They have a suctioning effect on clogged pores to dislodge compacted dead cells and tighten the appearance of pores. Often these are used for acne blemishes.
Chemical exfoliants may be broadly divided into the following five categories: AHA, BHA, enzymes, acne actives and retinoids. Here’s a closer look at each of them.
AHAs, including citric, glycolic, malic, tartaric and lactic acids, increase skin cell turnover by dissolving protein bonds between cells. AHAs are water soluble and are less effective in entering the oil glands because they cannot get through the sebum content of the pores. As a result, the dead skin sloughs off, revealing fresh soft skin underneath. Acids only penetrate the epidermis or the outermost layer of the skin. The chemical difference between alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids is the location of the hydroxy group on the carbon chain of the acid. Alpha indicates that the group is on the first carbon atom, whereas beta means that the group is on the second carbon atom. The most critical efficacy parameters are use of correct isomer, concentration and pH. Do not apply product on the damaged skin. It could provoke burning or itching. Avoid exposure to sun. Use a sun protection cream. Avoid use in pregnant women. These products usually may cause transitory mild itching, burning or blushing. If such symptoms persist, it is advisable to discontinue use. It is advised, however, not to overdo this by using many different AHA products a day. Always wear broad spectrum sunscreen, since AHAs thin out the top layer of the skin. For callus skin and elbows, use a leave-on product like a cream with good exfoliating ingredient glycolic acid.BHAs are a group of organic acids, including salicylic acid, used in the skin care products for their exfoliating and antibacterial properties. They are gentler than AHAs and are oil soluble. This oil solubility permits them to mix with sebum and exfoliate skin cell residue. This is the reason why BHAs are effective in the treatment of blackheads and blemishes.
More guys are taking care of their skin via exfoliation.
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Acne actives remove dead cells. Benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and sulfur resorcinol are strong exfoliants found in OTC acne products and cleansers, rinsable scrubs, soaps, creams and lotions. Their concentration is governed by the acne monograph, and work best when left on the skin for a while before rinsing.
Enzyme PowerEnzymes include papain (derived from papaya), bromelain (derived from pineapple) and pancreatin (a pancreatic enzyme derived from pork or beef processing). All of them dissolve protein in the dead cells. These enzymes are called proteolytic because they dissolve protein to exfoliate and improve skin. Enzyme based products are available as peels or powders which are reconstituted with water prior to use. Kinerase, a plant growth factor (N6-furfuryladenine), has cell turnover efficacy comparable to retinoids on the skin. It plumps plant leaves by causing the surface layer to retain water. In skin care products, it enhances cell turnover. It is available as formulated into products containing AHA and retinol. It is available in prescription and OTC strengths.
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives also known as tretinoins. They exfoliate skin and stimulate collagen production, resulting in plumper, firmer skin to diminish the appearance of wrinkles. Because vitamin A could inhibit the skin’s healing abilities, avoid waxing, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing.
Masks, pore cleansing strips, scrubs, sponges, puffs and washcloths, also exfoliate skin. Masks provide moisture to make wrinkles less pronounced and pores look smaller. Their cooling ingredients increase blood flow to impart a rosy glow. They are available in four basic categories: wax-based, vinyl- or rubber-based, hydrocolloid and earth-based. Waxbased masks are generally administered in salons or spas. These masks temporarily restrict trans-epidermal water loss. Vinyl-based masks are easily applied and removed. They are popular for home use. They are based on film-forming substances such as polyvinyl alcohol or vinyl acetate. They also temporarily restrict transepidermal water loss as long as it is in contact with the skin. Hydrocolloid masks are formulated with gums and humectants and are very popular because they are easy to incorporate specialty ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or sulphur, which soak up oil from oily or acne-prone skin. Earth based masks, also known as mud packs, are formulated with absorbent clays such as bentonite. Kaolin clay has an astringent effect on the skin, which is further enhanced by ingredients such as salicylic acid, AHA and menthol. Pore cleansing strips contain an acrylate adhesive that is placed on oily areas. The strip is left on for few minutes and allowed to set. When removed, it pulls off follicular debris that sticks to the strip. Scrubs, sponges brushes, puffs and washcloths all exfoliate unevenly and are impossible to keep clean. Abrasive sponges such as loofahs are very irritating on the facial skin and are also very difficult to keep clean. They also get easily contaminated with bacteria that can cause infection. Facial scrubs buff away excess oil, dirt and dead skin, but they may cause irritation due to uneven sharp surfaces. Waxy creams are easy to use but they can clog the pores and leave a film on the face. Some contain harsh ingredients like alcohol or menthol which dry skin and cause irritation.
Professional ProceduresOf course, you can choose from dozens of professional treatments performed by aestheticians and dermatologists. AHA and BHA peels are administered at a spa or doctor’s office. Low concentrations of acid produce a superficial peel and high doses are used for deeper exfoliation. AHA peels using over 50% concentrations are usually administered by physicians. To obtain significant lasting results, subsequent treatments are necessary. BHA peels at concentrations of 10 to 13% at a pH of 3 are administered with satisfactory results.
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Microdermabrasion uses a small amount of aluminium oxide crystals, which are swept across the face with a small hand-held vacuum, gently sloughing off dead skin cells to reveal the fresher, finer-pored skin underneath.
Lasers use a single wavelength, but light source uses multiple ones to treat the under-layer of skin, prompting it to create new collagen in order to heal. In dermaplaning, the dermatologist grazes a sharp scalpel across the face, skimming away dead cells and evening out skin’s surface, while also removing unwanted hair.
In ultrasound, skin exfoliation is accomplished through a process called cavitation, where water or gel molecules are driven by the low frequency sound waves to spin rapidly over the skin. This removes dead skin cells safely without inflammation. These ultrasound machines are available for home use and they do improve the skin appearance.
Skin really needs exfoliation. It improves all skin types. Just remember to use a gentle exfoliator daily, nothing that will remove natural oils. Exfoliation makes skin more active. But, whatever exfoliant you choose, make sure to use it very carefully— there is chance of scarring.
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Chapter 69
HOW ACIDS ENHANCE ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS
Originally derived from spoiled milk and fermented apples, acids have been used to beautify skin for thousands of years. There is an acid for every skin type and concern, and most don’t burn or even exfoliate the skin. These materials improve
dry skin, fine lines, wrinkles and acne. This month’s column will briefly review various acids that are currently found in many of today’s anti-aging products.
A wide variety of acid formulas are available, ranging from aesthetic to medical use. There is an art to developing acid formulations; it requires a very fundamental understanding of acids. Every acid has a specific purpose, affecting skin cells and tissue regeneration in unique ways. While some acids are gentle, others are much more intense, depending upon the pH of an acid and whether or not it is buffered. A buffered acid has a lower pH, which makes it more acidic and better able to penetrate skin to have an effect. The closer the acid gets to neutral pH (6.6-7.3), the less acidic the acid, which means, the less likely it is to be irritating and less effective on the skin, as well.
An OTC product can contain acid strength of anywhere from 0.5 to 5.0%; in contrast, professional products range in concentration from 20-70%—definitely stronger than
The right exfoliant can uncovermore youthful skin.
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what you can buy at a store! Professional products usually have lower pH so they penetrate skin further, however these professional products are usually administered under supervision and only stay on the skin for a few minutes. At-home products usually stay on the skin overnight or all day. Both of these product categories usually cause some skin reddening and tingling that is proportional to the strength of the acid in the product. Professionally administered products provide quick, dramatic results.
Types of AcidThere are basically four types of acids that are widely used in the global skin care industry—the exfoliators, the hydrators, the brighteners and anti-agers; here’s a brief review of each of them.
The ExfoliatorsExfoliating AHAs seep into skin cells and loosen ceramides, the glue-like substance holding cells together. Glycolic, salicylic, lactic and malic acids all fall into this category. These acids help reveal shiny newer skin cells that lie beneath the dead surface skin. Getting rid of dead skin increases cell turnover, allowing new cells to reflect light for a healthy glow. Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and is the most widely used acid, in levels ranging from 1-10%. Ideally, 8-10% works best to bring about real changes to skin. Glycolic acid rejuvenates skin with minimal irritation. It removes dead cells, smoothes texture, shrinks pores, lightens spots, evens out scars, reduces the appearance of wrinkles and keeps skin bright. Its small molecular size enables it to penetrate cellular walls and actively stimulate cell turnover.
Lactic acid is best for sensitive skin and fights signs of aging. It is used at strength of 4-12%. It is derived from milk. It exfoliates and softens lines and wrinkles. It is not as irritating as glycolic acid. It easily penetrates the skin because it is a small molecule. It appears in many skin care products, primarily because it provides skin hydration benefits.
Malic acid is a weaker version of glycolic acid. It is more suited to those with extremely sensitive skin. It loosens the bond that holds dead skin cells together and also provides anti-aging benefits.
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). It poses little irritation risk, as it is self-neutralizing. It works as an exfoliator to remove discolored and damaged skin cells. It improves tone, and produces a drying and lifting effect. Salicylic acid treats acne because it dries up blemishes by unclogging packed pores and loosens trapped dirt and oils. It stimulates desquamation, collagen and elastin production, and provides antioxidant, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory support. It works for most skin types. Salicylic acid is less irritating than AHAs, but may cause an allergic reaction in patients with aspirin sensitivities. Derived from willow bark, typical use levels range from 0.5-2.0%.
The BrightenersKojic, L-ascorbic, azelaic and mandelic acids all work at a deeper skin level to halt melanin production and impart a brightening effect. None of them has an immediate effect, but with regula use, over time, the skin color evens and has a hint of glow.
L-ascorbic acid is derived from vitamin C in synthetic form. It imparts antioxidant benefits, brightening skin and increasing collagen, L-ascorbic acid is the synthetic version of vitamin C and works to brighten skin while providing free-radical protection against photo-damage and elements in the environment such as pollution that damages skin. They are usually used at 10-20% active strength.
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The HydratorsThese acids work at a deeper level of the skin, so that it is more hydrated. Hyaluronic acid provides a hydrating effect. It allows skin to hold on to water and is compatible with every skin types. It almost acts as a water magnet. It is the key ingredient in many moisturizers and injectable fillers. It works differently because it is a moisture magnet. It keeps everything hydrated and together. You get a plumping effect by injecting it. In the products it provides softer skin feel because it pulls moisture from the air down into the skin.
As a hydrator acid, kojic acid provides powerful protection against photo-damage and against pollution that damages skin. It is best for evening out skin color and lightening discoloration and age spots. It is usually incorporated into formulas levels ranging
from 1-2.5%. It is a fungus derived from the Japanese mushrooms. Kojic acid boasts effects similar to hydroquinone. It is suitable for those who want long-term lightening without the risks that come with hydroquinone.
Finally, kojic acid works to disrupt the production of melanin to make skin look more even in color.
The Anti-AgersThis acid category includes ferulic acid, azelaic acid, retinoic acid and alpha lipoic acid. Ferulic acid is used for making new collagen in skin and stopping free radical damage. It is derived from the seeds and leaves of plants. Ferulic acid is usually combined with another ingredient such as retinol or vitamin C or E to provide supercharged protection from the sun and pollution.
Azelaic acid is best used for controlling redness and acne. Derived from grains, it is usually used at 10% strength. Because it soothes irritated skin, azelaic acid is used for calming rosacea-initiated redness, inflammation and bumps while evening out skin tone. Retinoic acid is used for acne and anti-aging purposes. It is most often used at levels ranging from .025-1%. Derived from vitamin A, it revs up collagen production, keeps pores clean, accelerates skin cell shedding and evens skin tone. Although skin flaking is an unpleasant side effect, cell turnover improves the look of skin, making it appear more youthful. Besides, flaking is usually temporary—skin will adjust.
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative. It converts to retinoic acid and is a DNA regulator. It effectively treats UV-induced aging and discoloration, assists in collagen synthesis and encourages healthy cell formation. Research has shown that retinol is capable of oxidizing to retinoic acid through enzyme activity, providing the benefits of Retin A without side effects.
Most skin types tolerate retinol in topical and acid formulations. Alpha lipoic acid is best for antioxidant protection and minimizing wrinkles. Derived from plants, alpha lipoic acid is said to possess great penetrability; i.e., it can enter all parts of a skin cell and provide extreme protection against free radicals. This helps prevent damage to the skin and lifts skin’s vitamin levels of E and C back to normal, and giving skin a healthy glow.
Acids play a role in treating acne.
241 HOW ACIDS ENHANCE ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS
Whether formulators are working with exfoliators, hydrators, brighteners or anti-agers, acids play an important role in many of today’s skin care products.
Acids are well-known for their exfoliating properties, but they also have applications as hydrators.
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Chapter 70
GREEN, BLACK OR WHITE IT FITS BEAUTY TO A ‘T’
THE POPULARITY of bottled teas has helped U.S. tea sales quadruple during the past decade to more than $6 billion. But tea isn’t just for drinking. Its leaves possess many beneficial properties that are of interest to cosmetic chemists around the
world. In addition, sales of green tea leaves in food and dietary supplement channels (excluding cosmetics) tops $160 million, according to the Nutritional Business Journal, 2006. These statistics illustrate that more consumers are convinced about tea’s benefits.
A recent study conducted by Opinion Research Corporation revealed that Americans overwhelmingly associate health benefits with green tea and overlook the health benefits of regular black tea. Seventy-one percent identify a hot green tea as a good source of antioxidants while only 34% of respondents view regular hot tea as a good source of antioxidants. In fact regular (black) and green tea have virtually the same amount of antioxidants.
Furthermore, 58% of those surveyed mistakenly identify herbal tea as a good source of antioxidants, when in fact herbal tea, unlike green and black tea, does not contain antioxidants. All teas (green, black, white and Oolong) are derived from the same plant, Camelia Sinensis, an evergreen shrub native to East Asia. It is a sturdy, multi-stemmed bush that grows to a height of approximately eight feet and is capable of withstanding cold temperatures.
Fermentation ProcessTeas can be broadly divided into three categories: unfermented, semi-fermented and
fermented. Green tea is unfermented. Steaming and roasting stops the fermentation process. For Japanese varieties, the process is almost always “steaming.” Their different colors and specific characteristics are dependent upon their cultivation and collection. The plant is harvested and treated in different ways to yield green or black tea.
Green: Crushed leaves are steamed shortly after harvest. In Japan, tea leaves are steamed, but in China, the leaves are pan fried directly after plucking. Because it does not ferment it has much higher level group of flavonoids called catechins. A potent catechin, epigallocatechin-3-gallate or EGCG is 3 to 4 times more abundant in green tea than black. Green tea varieties are Dragon Well (China’a most famous tea), Gen mai cha (Japanese tea blended with roasted rice kernels), Gunpowder (Chinese grade of green tea), Gyokuro (highly prized Japanese tea), Hyson (named after an East Indian merchant and made in India), Matcha (ceremonial tea of Japan) and Sencha (classic Japanese tea).
243 GREEN, BLACK OR WHITE IT FITS BEAUTY TO A ‘T’
Black: Leaves are fermented for days before they are heated. The tea has an abundance of antioxidants that obstruct the action of cell damaging free radicals. Black tea varieties include Assam, Ceylon, Darjeeling, Keemum, Lapsang, Souchong, Puerh and Yunnan.
White: Young leaves are harvested a few days each spring—just when shrubs re-emerge from winter dormancy. During this time, the leaves have extremely high antioxidant content. White tea is just steamed or sun dried. The highest quality white tea comes from buds that are just about to open and often are called needles or tips.
Oolong: Originates in the Fukien province of China. Oolong teas are treated in much the same way as black, but withering and fermentation times are minimized. Formosa Oolong (Ti Kuan Yin) tea is grown in the same province. Its curled leaves create an amber liquid and a delicate, peachy nutty flavor.
Rooibos: Originates in the Cedarberg region of South Africa. It has recently become popular because of its fruity, sweet taste and its caffeine-free, low tannin, antioxidantrich status. It is often referred to as red tea because it makes a bright redcolored tea. Despite some promotional claims, a serving of Rooibos tea has fewer polyphenols than the same serving of green or black tea.1
Active ComponentsWhite tea contains the highest level of anthocyanins, which give tea its red color. This tea is minimally processed (air-dried and only slightly oxidized). Green and black tea are also rich sources of anthocyanins. There are four primary polyphenols in green tea that together are referred to as catechins. Green tea’s health promoting effect is attributed to the most exclusively studied compound known as epi-gallocatechin-3- gallate (EGCG). The polyphenols are powerful bio-flavonoids or catechins.
Some polyphenols such as quercetin, also have anti-inflammatory and healing properties. Recent research studies have shown that phyto-chemicals can have a major impact on anti-aging skin care. A team led by Thomas Gasiewicz of the University of Rochester Medical Center found that EGCG binds to and inhibits a protein in the body related to abnormal cellular activity that can lead to cancer. In another study he found that consumption of tea prevented breast cancer in women at genetic risk.
It may not be the fountain of youth, but tea packs plenty of nutrients to promote skin health.
244 GREEN, BLACK OR WHITE IT FITS BEAUTY TO A ‘T’
Tea contains virtually no calories, fat or sugar but has trace amounts of healthful minerals such as potassium and fluoride and a number of amino acids and vitamins C, B2, D and K. This may, perhaps, explain why tea drinkers usually tend to have a lower incidence of heart disease and other chronic conditions, according to Joseph Simrany, president of the Tea Council of USA.
Beauty BenefitsGreen tea polyphenols are powerful antioxidants that protect against UVA and UVB rays, can soothe sunburn and are 20 times more powerful as an antioxidant than vitamin C.
Polyphenols are very good for skin, but whether they have any effect on scars or fine lines and wrinkles is not yet established in statistically significant double-blind human clinical studies.
According to Dr. Stephen Hsu of the medical college of Georgia, green tea polyphenols are not absorbed beyond the epidermis, so any benefits are limited to that outer layer of skin, but the benefits he stressed seem significant. According to the researchers at the Reyes Memorial Medical Center, Philippines, a cream with 3% green tea significantly improved moderate to severe acne after only four weeks. This observation is corroborated by Dr. Jeanine B. Downie. EGCG, the active ingredient of green tea has a potent antibacterial effect on the skin. According to the research conducted at Case Western Reserve University in Cleveland, white tea extract helped boost the immune function of skin cells and protect them from sun damage. A cream containing white tea was applied to the skin and exposed to artificial sunlight. Harmful DNA changes in the skin were prevented. The skin benefits are attributed to its potent antioxidant polyphenols and their skin-repairing properties.
CautionMany teas contain tannins of various kinds and quantities. The tannin in common tea decreases iron absorption. Tannins can influence absorption of vitamin B12 in rats.2 Tea contains caffeine and it should not be consumed when you are advised to avoid stimulants. Green tea has antiplatelet activity. Consumers on blood thinning medications are advised against consuming it. It is possible for one to experience sleeplessness, fatigue, diarrhea and gastric upset if excessive amount of green tea beverage is consumed.
The Food and Drug Administration rejected a petition for a hearthealth claim on green tea.3 Sin Hang Lee of Connecticut alerted the FDA that some teas contain high levels of fluoride, pesticide residues or lead contaminants, potentially increasing health hazards to humans if ingested in excess. This was recently reported as a case of tea fluoride intoxication discovered in St. Louis which illustrates such potential health hazards.4
ConclusionsTeas, including black, green and white, deliver many intriguing health benefits. Dozens of studies point to tea’s potent antioxidant as well as anti-carcinogenic properties. However, a good deal of research was conducted on animal models that do not directly relate to human skin.5 There is only limited information about its effects on human skin.6 Tea has received a great deal of attention because tea polyphenols are strong antioxidants and tea preparations have inhibitory activity against tumorigenesis. The bioavailability and biotransformation of tea polyphenols, however, are key factors limiting these activities in-vivo.7
According to Lynda Doyle, director of marketing, new business development, DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., extensive research has been done with its patented EGCG, marketed under the brand name Teavigo. This highly concentrated tea extract
245 GREEN, BLACK OR WHITE IT FITS BEAUTY TO A ‘T’
epigallocatechin-3-gallate is an off-white, caffeine-free powder. It is also free of herbicide and pesticide residues. This includes several human clinical trials in the area of weight management and cardiovascular health. In one randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind crossover study, it significantly improved endothelial function.8 In another double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled, crossover study, a 300mg dose of EGCG increased fat oxidation, and a synergism for caffeine and EGCG was shown.9 A third trial indicated potential improvements in heart rate and blood glucose in atrisk subjects.10
References:1. WESGRO, Western cape Investment and trade promotion agency, Cape Town, South
Africa. Wesgro background report: the Rooibos industry in the Western Cape. April, 2000.
2. Natural Products Medicine, p.107, George Stickley Co, Phila.3. Nutrition Industry Executive, June 20064. Am. J. Med. 2005; 118:78-82.5. Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, 2001, Pg. 69-76.6. The Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, Dec. 31, 2001.7. Annual review of Pharmacology and Toxicology, Jan. 2002, pg. 25-54.8. EGCG treatment—coronary artery disease, J. Vita M D, Professor of medicine, Boston
University School of medicine.9. Abstract 6 Journal of the American College of Nutrition, Volume 25 No 5 October 2006.10. Abstract 7 Journal of the American College of Nutrition, Volume 25 No 5 October
2006.
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Chapter 71
WHAT’S BEHIND THE POPULARITY OF TODAY’S FACIAL MASKS?
Masks attract today’s consumer with the promise of immediate results in treating a variety of skin flaws. New formats and formulations that address individual needs appeal to consumer looking to try something different without spending
a fortune. In the US, facial masks have significantly outperformed much larger segments such as facial moisturizers according to Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst with The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY.
Facial masks are among the oldest face treatments. Cleopatra had her own special formulas. This column will briefly review the role of facial masks in improving skin conditions. Masks remove dry, dead skin cells from the surface making the skin smoother and the pores less dilated. Masks can be either a “wash off” (clay based) or “peel off” (synthetic polymer based). Masks can moisturize intensely, making wrinkles look less pronounced. Masks containing a cooling ingredient like menthol increase blood flow to the skin, making skin look rosy. Facial masks are based on three major categories; namely, vinyl- or rubber-based, earth-based and wax-based. Masks provide three main benefits, acne-fighting, anti-aging and moisturizing.
Vinyl- or rubber-based masks are very popular because they are easy to apply and remove in one single sheet. They are based on substances such as polyvinyl alcohol, vinyl acetate or latex. When the vehicle evaporates, a thin and pliable vinyl or rubber film remains and is left on the face for about 30 minutes. Due to occlusion, facial hydration is improved. The formulas usually contain exfoliating agents such as AHAs and BHAs.
Masks come in a variety of styles including polyvinyl acetate.
247 What’s Behind the Popularity Of Today’s Facial Masks?
The Clay’s the ThingEarth masks are formulated with absorbent clays such as bentonite or kaolin that produce an astringent effect on skin; this effect is boosted by adding ingredients such as zinc oxide, salicylic acid or AHA. Clays are rich in mineral salts. They are absorbent and re-mineralizing. They are also used in foaming products such as shampoos and shower gels. White clay is ideal for masks, creams and shampoos for normal hair. Green clay is perfect for masks, anti-dandruff shampoos and products for oily hair. Red clay is recommended in masks and shampoos for dry hair. Pink clay, a mix of red and white clay, is suitable for moisturizing masks.
Furthermore, Fuller’s earth has skinstimulating properties and removes dead skin cells. Moroccan clay is effective in detoxifying the skin without leaving it dry or sensitive.
Alban Muller’s Amipeel-off mask is a powder made up of alginates extracted from brown algae that have moisturizing properties. It contains natural silicon in the form of diatomaceous earth, which remineralizes and firms the skin. Specially formulated to gel quickly on the skin’s surface, this soft, thin mask peels off in one piece to leave the epidermis soft and relaxed, according to the company.
Masks are primarily composed of clay, mud or earth minerals. Clays from the various parts of the world are selectively used for their inherent properties. Clays absorb oils from the skin and they also remove layer of the skin with it when it is removed making facial skin smoother.
According to Dr. Howard Murad, MD, clay masks designed for oily or acne prone skin should not only remove oil but also heal and soothe as well. There are more than 12 types of clays used in masks. These masks are blended with additional actives such as sulfur, seaweed, tea tree oil, eucalyptus, zinc and licorice extract. One caveat; clays can be too harsh if they require a lot of rinsing to remove them.
Finally, wax masks are formulated into thin lotion with beeswax, petrolatum and cetyl alcohol that usually is applied with a soft brush on the skin covered with a thin gauge cloth. This mask treatment is available only in professional salons or spas.
An Array of BenefitsAcne masks are based on bentonite clay, which has excellent oil absorbing properties. They usually contain benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, sulfur or camphor, too.
Dead cell layers thicken with age, but when these layers are sloughed off, skin appears smoother and brighter. That’s why some masks contain pumice and polyethylene to provide gentle skin exfoliation during rinsing. These masks are left on the face for 20 minutes and need to be used two to three times weekly. Masks work to draw out skin’s excess oil, dirt and impurities. They also help clear pores, promote healthy skin cell rejuvenation and control acne breakouts.
Pre-masks have a thicker consistency and are usually applied by brush and left on the face for 10-15 minutes. These characteristics are necessary because the clogged pore is filled with hardened sebum, wax and cholesterol, which turns black when sebum oxidizes and the pores, filled with sebum, stretch and appear larger. Sometimes use of steam accompanies this treatment which makes skin more flexible for extraction of sebaceous impaction and unclog pores.
A consumer who has relatively few clogged follicles and more dehydrated skin may find this treatment beneficial because any carelessness and a clogged pore blossoms into a pimple. Advanced deep cleansing masks address clogged pores, soothe inflammation and improve circulation.
According to Murad, cleansing masks clarify skin and temporarily tighten pores. They also encourage a sense of wellbeing as the client relaxes during facial service.Another category, moisturizing masks, contain large number of emollients, helping temporarily
248 What’s Behind the Popularity Of Today’s Facial Masks?
plump up fine lines and wrinkles making them less noticeable. As a dermatologist Murad suggests masks infused with high levels of antioxidants such as vitamin C be used on sun damaged hyper-pigmented skin to increase clarity and hydration. Anti-aging masks are formulated to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, hydrate the skin and encourage new cell development. This category includes enzyme masks that are ideal for digesting impacted layers of dead skin cells that are subsequently removed. Enzyme sources include papaya, pineapple and pumpkin. They target dead skin cells and exfoliate skin. These masks are excellent cleansers, as they liquefy dead cells, and are popular in anti-aging treatments.
What’s Next?Masks’ popularity is driven by a move toward more customized skin care solutions
along with improved ease of use.According to Sarah Jindal, senior marketing manager, Mintel, multi-use masks are
now available in Asia. These 3-in-1 products work as a serum, cream and mask; their success means that many other variants will soon enter the marketplace.
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Chapter 72
AGING AND BROWN SPOTS
SKIN WHITENERS are among the most popular cosmetic products across Asia, Africa and the Middle East. In 2007, sales of whitening products accounted for approximately 30% of skin care sales in Japan and 20% in Korea. The reason for
high market shares in Asia is because in Southeast Asia fair skin is associated with beauty, in the same way white teeth and slender figure are in the UK.1 It’s no surprise then, that the leading global brands of skin whiteners globally in 2007 were brands from key Japanese manufacturers such as Shiseido’s Elixir Superior whitening, Kanebo’s Blanchir and Kose’s Whitest. Uneven skin tones and skin discoloration can age the look of facial skin just as dramatically as fine lines and wrinkles. Brown spots are caused by years of cumulative exposure to the sun without protection.They are also called “liver spots” even though they have nothing to do with the liver. They are also known as “age spots,” because they become visible as one ages. The medical term is solar lentigenes.
Solutions for Brown Spots?Brown spots appear gradually, usually changing from light to dark brown. They are
randomly distributed over the face, arms, hands, chest and back—all parts of the body that are usually exposed to sun. Although not threat to one’s health, they are associated with aging and looking older. Most pigmentation conditions can affect any skin type and are primarily caused by abnormalities in pigment production in the melanocyte. This column will briefly discuss key actives, products and procedures used for treating brown spots.
The actives listed in Table I have been shown to inhibit melanin production to one degree or another by varying mechanisms. It is suggested that daily sunscreen be used to derive maximum skin lightning benefits from the actives.
Table II on p. 52 lists commercial fade products, their active ingredients and approximate cost.
Table I: Skin Lightening Actives2
Agent Mechanism of Action Advantages Disadvantages
Hydroquinone Inhibits tyrosinase cytotoxic
Gold standard stable in combination coloration;
Unstable; contact dermatitis hyperpigmentation; nail dispermanent leukoderma; cytotoxic
250 AGING AND BROWN SPOTS
Arbutin Inhibits tyrosinase and melanosome maturation
Little cytotoxicity
Mild irritant; hyperpigmentation; weak activity; no controlled trials
Kojic Acid Inhibits tyrosinase Stable with dipalmitate antioxidant
Mild irritant; unstable; no controlled trials; allergen
Mulberry Inhibits tyrosinase Antioxidant Mild irritant; no controlled trials
Licorice Inhibits tyrosinase; melanin dispersion; melanine degradation
No cytotoxicity Mild irritant; no controlled trials
Niacinamide Inhibits melanosome transfer
Very stable Mild irritant; weak activity
Soybean Trypsin Inhibitor
Inhibits melanosome transfer; (inhibits PAR-2); (inhibits trypsin)
Antioxidant; Good penetration
Mild irritant; heat inactivated
Ascorbic Acid Inhibits tyrosinase Antioxidant Irritant; highly unstable; low penetration; weak activity
Magnesium-L Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate
Inhibits tyrosinase Stable antioxidant
Mild irritant; low concentrations
Alpha Tocopherol Inhibits tyrosinase Antioxidant Mild irritant
AHA Increase turnover; Inhibits tyrosinase
GA: penetration enhancer LA: less irritation
GA: irritant; PIH; LA: less absorption; pH dependent
Linoleic Acid Increase turnover New liposomal delivery
Mild irritant
Retinoids Inhibits tyrosinase Melanin dispersion Increase turnover
Retinyl palmitate: less irritating; stable
Irritant; hyperpigmentation; weak activity
N-acetyl Glucosamine
Inhibits tyrosinase Stable Mild irritant
Table 2: Major Brands2
Store Brand Active Ingredient Cost
Ambi Skin Discoloration Fade Cream Even and Clear Moisturizer with SPF 30
Hydroquinone; Alpha Hydroxy Acid; Vitamin E Soybean; Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate; Tocopheryl Acetate
$5 (2oz)
251 AGING AND BROWN SPOTS
Aveeno Skin Brightening Daily Moisturizer w/SPF 15
Soybean; Retinol; Vitamin C; Vitamin E
$15 (1oz)
Chanel Precision Performance Licorice Extract; Vitamin C; Retinol; Soybean Oil
$75 (1oz)
Anti-Taches (Dark Spot Corrector Roll-On) Precision Estompe Taches Anti-Dark Spot Serum
Vitamin C; Hydroxy Acid $60 (1oz)
Clarins Repairing Whitening Night Cream
Vitamin C derivative; Raspberry Extract
$62 (1.7oz)
Dermablend Chromatone Fade Crème Hydroquinone 2% $18 (3.7oz)
Elizabeth Arden Sheer White Restoring Vitamin C, Soy $62 (1oz)
Night Cream Millenium Energist Revitalizing Emulsion
$60 (1.7oz)
Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Intensive Lifting Serum
Mulberry Extract $175 (1oz)
Fashion Fair Vantex Skin Bleaching Crème
Niacinamide $20 (2oz)
LancômeBlanc Expert Extra Whitening Spot
Licorice $72 (1oz)
Corrector Absolue Radiance Anti-Dark Spot Concentrate
Soy $98 (1.3oz)
Olay Definity Acetyl Glucosamine; Niacinamide
$30 (1oz)
Shiseido Whitess Intensive Skin Brightener
Arbutin 5% $120 (1.4oz)
White Lucent Brightening Moisturizing Gel
Vitamin C $54 (1.3oz)
White Lucent Protective Moisturizer (SPF 16)
Vitamin C $51 (2.5oz)
The Body Shop Moisture White Brightening Serum
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate; Licorice Extract
$36 (1.5oz)
Some of the top skin lighteners found in drugstores are Skin Effects Advanced Brightening Complex, Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Radiant Eye Brightening Cream, La Roche-Posay Mela-D Skin lightening Lotion. Among the leading department store brands are Dr. Brandt Laser Lightening Day Lotion, DDF Intensive Holistic Lightener, Kinerase Brightening Anti-Aging System, Murad Lighten and Brighten Eye Treatment, Patricia Wexler M. D. Dermatology Under-Eye Brightening Cream, La Praire The Radiance Collection, La Mer The Radiant Facial, ReVive Blanche Whiten, Lighten and Brighten.3
ProceduresSome dark spots could be covered up by mineral makeup, which also provides sun protection, anti-inflammatory benefits and aesthetic coverage without irritation. For those dark spots that can’t be covered by foundation, microdermabrasions or chemical peels can help. Microdermabrasion is essentially mechanical exfoliation utilizing an
252 AGING AND BROWN SPOTS
abrading brush to remove superficial to deep layers of the skin with the help of fine motion of crystals. This procedure should be done under a dermatologist’s supervision. Several treatments are usually necessary to improve skin tone, texture, dark spots, fine lines and scarring. Generally speaking, a glycolic acid peel is used to induce skin to shed its dead cells. Superficial peels give best results when repeated every few weeks, where as deep peels are typically done once, but may be repeated years later. It is very easy to see improvement because it removes few layers of skin. However, more serious spots would require a laser resurfacing procedure. The newer, non-ablative versions such as Fraxel is used to eliminate age spots and scars with a few days of recovery. Lasers, however do not perform as well on melasma discolorations.
Why All Those Spots?Anything from sun to aging in general will often bring on dark spots, fine lines, wrinkles, warts and skin cancer. Skin discoloration or pigmentation problems, which are becoming more common, are usually a temporary condition, if treated right.
Virtually all skin hyper-pigmentation can be corrected. It is however important to point out that under-eye dark circles are not considered a pigment problem. They essentially are caused by lack of sleep, fluid buildup, genetics and lifestyle among many other reasons. Even toned, radiant skin is achievable, when it has been well nourished and protected.
References:1. Euromonitor International. (1/2/09)2. Tables 1, 2. Insight into Skin Lightening Cosmeceuticals for Women of Color, S. Bansal
MD, Zoe Diana Draelos MD, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, Jan. 2007, Vol. 6. Issue1.3. Youth Equation, J. Dover, M.D. and Cara Birnbaum, Page 91.
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Chapter 73
NIGHT CREAMS: A DREAM COME TRUE OR NIGHTMARE?
WE HAVE ALL read the bold claims for night creams; they moisturize skin during sleep, neutralize free radicals, improve texture, tone skin, firm up sagginess and fade brown spots. Are night creams really helpful in fighting
aging? Do they really provide antiaging benefits or are they worthless and a waste of money? On these questions, consumers fall into two camps: the true lovers of nature, open air, healthy food and clean skin who insist skin should be allowed to “breathe” as one sleeps and should never be occluded with night cream that can clog pores and create a nightmare of skin rashes and other problems. In contrast, others love their night creams and can’t live without them!
This column examines the opinions of dermatologists who agree and disagree about the benefits of night creams and the controversies that surround them. It also provides a brief discussion on efficacy enhancing ingredients and the cost.
Consumers’ enthusiasm for smooth, soft skin, with minimal age spots and wrinkles has helped drive sales of facial anti-aging products 45.7% to $437 million from 2003 to 2007, according to Mintel. At the same time, facial moisturizer sales reached $268 million. Night creams fall into both categories.
Meanwhile, Euromonitor predicts that sales of anti-aging products will grow 21% in constant value between 2007 and 2012 to $2.7 billion.
The Dermatologists’ ViewAccording to Dr. P.K. Farris, a Louisiana dermatologist, many night creams contain ingredients of dubious usefulness. While millions of dollars worth of product are sold every year, many dermatologists insist that some products are not worth it.
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, professor of dermatology at the University of Miami, night cream makers exaggerate the benefits that most women see after using a nighttime moisturizer.
“These companies make outrageous statements, claiming that the skin undergoes all sorts of strange processes at night that it does not during the day. This is patently wrong and without proof,” she insisted.
However all dermatologists concur that some ingredients have proven anti-aging effects. Retinol, vitamin C and certain peptides (proteins) have been proven anti-aging compounds.
254 NIGHT CREAMS: A DREAM COME TRUE OR NIGHTMARE?
Night moisturizers should contain retinol because sunlight renders retinol inactive, according to Dr. Baumann. Retinol is highly effective and is a gold standard for reducing fine lines and wrinkles and is available without prescription. Most people experience a transient stinging sensation on applying retinol creams. Also when using retinol, skin may become photosensitive, so retinolbased creams are best used at nights.
Dermatologists unanimously agree that a good night cream should contain peptides and vitamin C, because they boost collagen production. Doing so reduces wrinkles and helps increase skin firmness. Other effective actives include idebenone, vitamin E, co-enzyme Q-10 and green tea, according to Dr. Baumann.
Seattle-based dermatologist Dr. Sandy Read noted that in order to be effective, night creams must contain the right ingredients in the proper concentrations, and be given time to work—a minimum of five hours a night for eight weeks. If the creams are used only sporadically, the desired results will not be obtained.
“It is sort of like when you need a blood transfusion and instead of putting in an IV, you just splash the blood on your skin,” she noted.
Similarly a moisturizer won’t do any good unless it penetrates, and to do so, it must have time to work. Some dermatologists advocate moisturizing and treating the skin at night. Night creams hydrate and condition the skin during night when normal tissue repair is taking place all over the body including the skin. Skin should be thoroughly cleansed before the night cream is applied. Night creams must be optimized with efficacy-enhancing ingredients to help make them deliver the desired antiaging benefits.
Consumers should not fall prey to advertisements that promise much and fail to deliver the right ingredients in the right proportion. A quality night cream goes a long way in fighting the effects of aging, soothing skin and boosting collagen production.
Reinforcing the BarrierReinforcement of the barrier function requires ingredients such as ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, sphingolipids and phospholipids. Soothing ingredients include aloe vera, chamomile, feverfew and allantoin. Hydrating ingredients include sodium PCA, a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and glycerin. Both hydrate the skin without adding excess emollients that would clog pores. Other suitable ingredients are sodium hyaluronate and butylene glycol. Emollients protect against excess water loss, preventing dehydration. Popular emollients include caprylic/ capric triglycerides, dimethicone, jojoba oil, squalane and cyclomethicone. Effective humectants include urea, propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin.
A recent study has found that the skin’s temperature increases during sleep and that warmer skin absorbs more of a product’s active ingredients. It is therefore better to select a treatment cream that is packed with vitamins and proven anti-aging actives to gain the benefits while you sleep.
Solid SupportAccording to Dr. Baumann, inexpensive brands backed by multinational brands,
such as Neutrogena, L’Oréal, Revlon, Olay, Dove, Pond’s and Aveeno, often have the resources to perform scientific studies to identify effective formula and prove that they work. In these tough economic times, it is very important to remember this advice.
Some women feel so overwhelmed by myriad ingredient and formulation choices that they abandon night creams altogether, choosing instead to sleep bare-faced. However, it is important to note that the night cream category’s staying power is most probably due to satisfied consumers.
Benefits are perceived because night creams work with the body’s natural healing cycle that takes place during sleep. Everything from melanin production to stimulation of growth
255 NIGHT CREAMS: A DREAM COME TRUE OR NIGHTMARE?
hormone, which promotes fibroblast health and allows more production of collagen and elastin to keep skin tout and firm to cellular repair, is associated with this cycle.
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Chapter 74
GLYCATION’S ROLE IN SKIN AGIN
This column will briefly examine the importance of glycation and its emerging role in skin aging, which is a relatively new area of skin research. Glycation holds an important plank in the anti-aging platform, and helps to bridge the gap between
traditonal beauty products and the nutricosmetics segment.Glycation is a non-enzymatic reaction between amino groups on proteins (lysine)
and reducing sugars (fructose). This reaction creates crosslinks in the skin and once these reactions occur, they disrupt normal function and predispose skin to oxidation, resulting in premature aging in the extra cellular matrix of the dermis, according to researchers.1 As sugar breaks down and enters the bloodstream, it bonds to protein molecules including collagen and elastin. These bonds cause skin to become stiff, inflamed and less supple. The market is flooded with all kinds of functional foods, supplements and topical skin products that reportedly reduce glycation. Oral and topical ingredients include botanical plant extracts, green tea polyphenols, antioxidants, turmeric, algae extracts, quercetine, silymarin, phloretin flavanoids, pomegranate, blueberry, herbs and spices, as well as alpha-lipoic acid, aspirin, B vitamins, aminoguanidine, pyridoxamine and carnosine. There is no recommended daily allowance to improve skin.
Some experts insist greentea improves glycation.
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Some antioxidants prevent and even reverse the attachment of sugar to collagen by allowing better metabolism of sugar in the cell, preventing its build up and facilitating the body’s natural repair mechanism.
Lipotec markets a peptide Eyeseryl, which is intended to prevent glycation in skin. Diets containing high amounts of refined sugars may pre-dispose skin to premature aging through the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs are found inside the body through normal metabolism and aging. Our body cells need sugar in order to function, however when its level rises abnormally in the blood it promotes glycation resulting in damage to proteins. When there is over-production of AGEs, collagen and elastin becomes compromised and both become abnormally clumped together, becoming rigid, and nonflexible. Glycation shows up on the skin as fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration, edema and sagging skin. It can be measured by conducting glycation index studies that measure the amount of sugars attached to your body’s proteins. A high index indicates accelerated aging.
But accelerated aging needn’t be imminent. It can be prevented by eating diets low in glycemic index (GI). This index compares the effects of different foods on blood sugar levels; consuming high GI foods result in high blood sugar levels in the blood, compared to low GI foods. Very low GI foods include most vegetables (with the exception of potatoes)
Products claim to have the ability to prevent skin glycation by blocking the sugar attachment to proteins, prevent glycoxidation by scavenging free radicals, dicarbonyls (aging changes cause accumulation of carbonyl groups on proteins. Carbonyl compounds are known to instigate harmful chemical reactions) and nitrogen produced by glycation. Many companies have launched topical products by studying occurrence of glycation in diabetics where circulating sugar levels in the blood are higher and as a consequence, damage arteries. Structurally, arteries are similar to the skin, giving birth to topical anti-glycation products to protect weakened diabetic skin.
The Doctors’ OpinionsTopical anti-glycation products and skin aging remains a controversial antiaging platform. There is no unanimous agreement on this among reputable dermatologists. According to Dr. Leslie Baumnn, founder of the University of Miami Cosmetic Medicine & Research Institute, no one knows if it is possible to fight glycation orally or topically. Antiglycation ingredients such as carnosine, green tea, blueberry and pomegranate are incorporated into various face creams and serums. There is no proof that these products actually penetrate deep enough into the dermis to block glycation.
In contrast, dermatologist Dr. Fredrick Brandt endorses green tea, grapeseed, pomegranate, pycnogenol, ceramide and aloe as the most effective anti-glycation actives.
More Study Is NeededGlycation is an emerging skin care trend that has become a buzzword in mainstream health media. Glycation shows up on the skin as fine lines,
wrinkles, discoloration, edema and sagging skin.
258 Glycation’s Role In Skin Agin
However, there are no double blind clinical studies available at this time to determine if there is glycation within the dermis. Hence, we do not have enough evidence to conclude that topical antiglycation products really work or if they are necessary at all.
Nevertheless, we should not underestimate the consequences of our own food choices. Diet and lifestyle changes are very important to improve the health of skin.
References:1. Dr. H. Knaggs et al, ch.41, p 339, cosmetic dermatology products and procedures,
Wiley-Blackwell.
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Chapter 75
A RANGE OF PRODUCTS THAT PROMISE TO TREAT CELLULITE
AS THE POPULATION ages, demand for anti-cellulite products remains high. Sales of these products rose from $58.8 million in 2002 to $93.1 million in 2007.1 Surgical options, non-invasive devices, injectables and topical creams are
all cellulite treatments but most lack proof of efficacy. My previous column (August, p. 45) reviewed cellulite and aging. This column reviews cellulite treatments. Mitchell P. Goldman, medical director, La Jolla Spa MD and Dermatology/ Cosmetic Laser Associates of La Jolla, CA has created treatments that combine skin creams with bio-occlusive shorts that aid in penetration. While they are not as effective as machines, published studies have shown that patients can achieve 20% to 35% improvement using the creams. There are over 200 products currently on the market for treating cellulite, even though the role of topical treatments is highly questionable. Still, these treatments proliferate despite a lack of data substantiating efficacy.
Regular exercise increases circulation and promotes detoxification by increasing perspiration. Exercise tightens, tones tissues and helps maintain a healthy weight to prevent certain diseases. Water does not reduce the appearance of cellulite, but it fully hydrates and plumps the skin and provides health benefits. Some medical authorities suggest that those with cellulite do not drink enough water. Some doctors advocate stopping the consumption of nicotine and caffeine since they constrict blood vessels. But this finding is not supported in any research.
It is difficult to eliminate cellulite because fatty tissue is poorly vascularized. Treatments work by stimulating the basal cells of the skin to produce more collagen. Although there is no proven cure for cellulite, a recent study published in the Journal of Dermatologic Surgery revealed that certain cellulite creams reduced fat cells in the skin in a few weeks. These creams are best applied after a hot bath/shower or vigorous exercise when the skin is still moist and warm. They work as long as they are used regularly. It is important that effective creams should be used in conjunction with diet and exercise or medical treatment. Creams only temporarily help ripples look smoother. Losing weight won’t eliminate cellulite, but could make cellulite less obvious. A variety of creams are thought to stimulate lipolysis. Strictly speaking, lipolysis is defined as fat cell shrinkage as opposed to fat cell loss. Topical creams are proposed to function through lipolysis of fat by changing the structure of the dermis and connective tissue or improving circulation. Two topical compounds most studied are methylxanthines and retinoids.2
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Typical claims for such products sound very scientific; e.g., “improve circulation,” “reduce the appearance of cellulite” or “stimulate the release of fat.” Some marketers embellish their claims based on poorly designed clinical studies.
It’s a Wrap!Some dermatologists recommend wraps for those who want a quick fix because they are relatively inexpensive ($60-250). Seaweed and sea mud wraps generally help detoxify and purify the skin. The consumer wears bioceramic-coated neoprene shorts for an hour. The shorts contain a claylike substance, which is layered into the neoprene, to help retain body heat and open the pores of the skin, allowing the body to absorb more of the cream’s active ingredient.
Herbal and cellulite wraps increase circulation, promote detoxification and compact skin tissues. Some herbal wraps are specifically designed to help break down bodily toxins. The wraps squeeze out excess fluids for an immediate tightening effect. Alas, it is only a short term solution and any inches lost quickly return. Therefore it is important to continue exfoliating and smoothing treatments between wraps.
Attempts to smooth fat have long been a staple of cellulite treatment. But a technique called Endermologie created a sensation in 1998 when it was approved by the FDA as the first therapy to reduce the appearance of cellulite. During treatment, patients wear a special body stocking and lie down while an aesthetician uses a hand-held roller that draws up skin folds and rolls the skin to break up the pockets of cellulite and increase circulation. At the same time another device suctions the skin. This somewhat uncomfortable procedure swells the skin to make cellulite go away temporarily. Endermologie typically involves two treatments a week for 10 weeks, followed by regular maintenance treatments. Each treatment costs about $100. This non-invasive deep tissue treatment smoothes and tightens the skin. Its results are temporary and maintenance is required. Many studies are underway to determine the effectiveness of this treatment. This and other mechanical treatments are designed to promote circulation, flush toxins and aid in tightening surrounding tissues.
A Controversial TreatmentMesotherapy is a most intriguing, yet controversial, cellulite treatment. Potentially risky, mesotherapy involves injecting small amounts of drugs or natural substances into the mesoderm, the layer of fat and connective tissue under the skin. The idea is to break up and metabolize fat. The ingredients vary according to the practitioner—a variance that makes the treatment unacceptable for many. Some doctors have urged caution, noting there is no substantiated clinical evidence that mesotherapy is safe and effective. The ingredients used are FDA-approved, although mesotherapy itself is not.
Mesotherapy was developed in France 50 years ago. Today, doctors use it to treat cellulite as well as promote weight loss and alleviate migraines and chronic pain. It is very popular in Europe and South America.
Many cellulite treatments promise great results, but any improvement is often only temporary, according to experts.
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Mesotherapy, or any micro-injection treatment, relies on fat-dissolving ingredients. The meso-active substances stimulate the metabolism of fat cells and accelerate elimination.
Materials injected into cellulite during mesotherapy include aminophillin and isopropanol to break up fat cells, collagenase and hyaluronidase to dissolve the connective fibers, anti-inflammatory medicines to control pain and swelling, and agents such as melilotus, an extract of sweet clover that dilates the blood and lymph vessels to increase circulation. To reduce pain, doctors sometimes add lidocaine.
Mesotherapy often is not performed by dermatologists or plastic surgeons, but by family practitioners and aestheticians. Several treatments are required for effective results. A treatment takes 30-60 minutes.
The patient remains conscious, but a topical numbing cream is used to mitigate the pain. The doctor inserts the needle to a depth of less than a third of an inch, several dozen times. Afterward, the patient may see some bruising at the injection site. Side effects may include sores and scarring. The price range for a session is $800-$1,500. Six to 10 sessions are typically recommended. The treatment often produces bruising, swelling and itching which lasts from a few hours to several days. A modest improvement is visible.
Localized fat deposits typically are the targets of liposuction. But this $5000 technique of extracting fat by vacuuming it from under the skin is not an effective cellulite treatment. In fact, liposuction may worsen the appearance of the skin by eliminating the cushion of fat that resides just under the skin. The result is additional dimpling.
Heat TreatmentsSeveral cellulite treatments depend on heat. One is a hand-held probe that delivers electro-magnetic radio waves to heat underlying fat tissue. The procedure reportedly reduces the appearance of dimpled fat and even slightly shrinks thighs, hips and belly. Published data are limited, but some physicians say the treatments produce a noticeable, though temporary effect on many patients.3
The Accent System is a new device that uses radio-frequency energy to heat underlying tissue at different depths, causing skin to contract and tighten. The procedure is medically supervised and is non-invasive. It is also expensive—$3,000 for six treatments.
The Thermage method is the most promising for long-term cellulite reduction. The device transmits radio frequency heat, which penetrates more deeply than lasers without burning, to zap collagen bundles and dissolve them. The procedure is painful and can take more than two hours to treat a single area. Therefore, doctors often administer pain medication. Thermage causes temporary redness and swelling of the skin or mild bruising.
The body replaces damaged cells with new connective tissue. Treatments are expensive (about $4,000), but produce noticeable results after only one session. Moreover, results last six months or longer compared to other options that require more visits.
TriActive is a painless, non-medical laser. It combines a low-energy laser to enhance blood circulation with mechanical massage to stimulate and tighten tissue. It works best if patients initially undergo 10 to 12 treatments weekly with monthly maintenance treatment thereafter. The cost is $80-150 for a 30-minute treatment. It is a non-invasive machine that helps loosen the septa and improve the circulation. It combines skin suction with a cool diode laser and was approved by the FDA last year.
Other Treatments IncludeUltrasound—The Ultrashape is a non-FDA approved device that has been recently shown to reduce fat.
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Carboxy Therapy—Carbon dioxide is injected into the subcutaneous tissue. This treatment affects fat cells and circulation.
VelaSmooth—A well-accepted device by doctors but it has limitations. It combines infrared light and radio frequency with rollers that manipulate tissue. This sends heat into the tissue more deeply than existing treatments to help break down fat within cells and shrink the cells. Due to the device’s high energy level, treatments must be performed or supervised by a doctor, according to Dr. Mary Lee Amerian, a Los Angeles dermatologist who has participated in the clinical trials of VelaSmooth.
Patients typically undergo 45- minute treatments twice a week for about six weeks. Skin improvements usually last about six months.
Monthly treatments are needed to maintain the benefits. Most people do not find the treatments painful. The cost is $200 per treatment. It uses radio frequency waves to break up fat and infra red heat to improve circulation. The makers of this device say it eliminates the appearance of cellulite, improves blood flow and softens fat. It is non-invasive and helps loosen the septa and improve circulation. FDA cleared the device in 2005 for the temporary reduction in the appearance of cellulite.
According to Dr. Tina Alster of the Washington Institute of Dermatologic Laser surgery in Washington D.C., and a professor at Georgetown University, School of Medicine, VelaSmooth is an improvement over Endermologie. Patients also need monthly follow-ups to maintain the results. Noninvasive skin treatment devices are classified in Table I.
ConclusionsThe causes of cellulite are poorly understood, but it is safe to conclude that collagen breakdown may play a role. There are many treatments, with minimal benefits.
While the FDA has approved massage and combined laser/massage therapies, note that these costly and time-consuming treatments are approved only for the temporary decrease in the appearance of cellulite and require ongoing treatments to maintain any improvements.
The most effective way to treat cellulite is through diet and exercise. This way you can impact the fat that makes its way through the net of fibrous tissue that makes up the skin to cause several small granular swellings or domes. To effectively reduce cellulite remember to watch your diet, eat fresh and natural foods, drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration, limit the consumption of caffeine and alcohol, avoid high fat foods, get plenty of fiber, stop smoking, avoid unnecessary medications and get plenty of exercise to keep the body as taunt and smooth as possible.
References:1. Euromonitor International. 2. Evidence based assessment of cellulite treatments, M.
Wanner, M. Avaram MD, J. Drugs in Dermatology, April 2008, Vol. 7, Issue 4 (table). 3. L. Johannes, Aches and Claims, Wall Street Journal, June 10, 2008.
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Chapter 76
GENOMIC-BASED ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS HOPE OR HYPE?
The US anti-aging skin care market is valued at $832 million by Mintel, and is expected to expand 46% from 2010 to 2015, according to the market research company. However, sales gains have slowed during the past year, according to
Mintel, and 69% of consumers believe skin aging has more to do with an individual’s genes than the strength of their topical products regimen, which they say offers “more hope than help.”
Consumers believe in the power of genes and have a basic understanding that the primary reason why they age is due to progressive damage to their DNA. This column will briefly review the current status of genomic-based anti-aging products and examine DNA, the critical molecule of life and how its health affects skin aging.
The human genome study, completed in 2003, provided a valuable insight into the human body. It identified nearly 25,000 genes in human DNA and how they are
Now that the human genome has been mapped, the information has implications for creating effective anti-aging products.
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regulated in response to both internal and external stimuli. The study also determined the sequence of almost three billion chemical base pairs that make up human DNA. This information has the ability to provide answers to the behavior of skin aging biomarkers. Specific biomarkers show an age dependent increase or decrease, which is helpful in understanding causes of aging. It could also help validate efficacy of anti-aging actives formulated into topical formulations. This potentially could also help develop effective anti-aging actives. You know what they say, “our genes load the gun, but our environment pulls the trigger.”
Available ProductsIs it really possible for a cream that is applied to the face to actually repair DNA or make genes younger? The answer is provided by Mt. Sinai Medical Center’s Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology, Dr. Jeanette Graf, increasingly popular “DNA repair” promises of the cosmetic industry, the words sound little scary, as if these products are going to go into the body and change your DNA. What’s really happening is that the products contain actives that help the body’s own natural efforts to protect and heal the skin.
Topical formulations have peptides as one of their actives. They act as messengers to a specific cell. They either switch some function on or off. They are very specific in nature. Some peptides increase the expression of specific skin biomarkers, thus conferring anti-aging skin care benefits. According to some researchers, if the creams we are using on our face are not suited to our genetic requirements, we are unable to metabolize the actives and they are left on the skin to build up as unwanted toxins in our system. There are skin care products specifically formulated for each individual by reading the person’s own DNA. The product development process begins by collecting a swab from the subject’s inner cheek to assess DNA of the six genes that affect the skin health according to Gene Link, which holds the patent for genetically assessing one’s skin. From these skin cells, experts find the customer’s propensity for collagen breakdown, photo-aging, wrinkling, skin aging, skin’s ability to tolerate environmental pollutants and overall health.
Products are delivered within three weeks after initial cheek swab procedure. According to the company, the consumers using genetically guided formulations had significantly reduced signs of skin wrinkling and skin aging while outperforming random topical anti-aging products. However, results of double-blind clinical studies were not available to make a fair assessment of efficacy. Sunscreens, when combined with antioxidants such as L-Ergothioneine, provide enhanced DNA protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation. The consequences of unrepaired DNA damage are enormous.
ConclusionsGenes are the gifts that keep on giving—whatever your particular genetic sequence may be. All external stimuli have influence on gene expression without changing the gene themselves, thus genetics play a major part in how our skin ages. We know that facial wrinkles arise partly because of our facial muscle movements, which has nothing to do with DNA, despite what some experts insist.
Beautiful skin and a youthful complexion are all in the genes and these good genes are something money can’t buy. It remains to be seen if the next generation of genomic-based research will yield highly effective anti-aging products. Until such time, consumers must carefully choose their brand from conflicting marketing messages.
However, we all should feel optimistic because, according to dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos, a consulting professor at Duke University’s School of Medicine, there is ground-breaking research underway to determine the differences between old and young genes. The hope is that by understanding how to keep young genes from getting old will result in putting truly effective genomic based anti-aging products in consumers’ hands.
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For additional in-depth information on this subject, check out “Satisfactory, Superior or Superfluous? Stem Cells, Growth Factors, DNA Protective Actives and Botanical Antioxidants” at Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition, set for Oct. 29-30, 2013 at the Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick, NJ. More info: http://conference.happi.com/
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Chapter 77
AT-HOME FACIAL PEELS ENTER THE MAINSTREAM
DON’T DENY your age. Defy it! That was actress Melanie Griffith’s battle cry in an ad campaign for Revlon a few years ago. Now, with the availability of athome facial peels, women really can defy the premature signs of aging. Coming to the
rescue is glycolic acid, a wellknown alpha hydroxy acid, which is usually the principal ingredient in such delivery systems. It makes skin better able to absorb moisture, removes dead, dry and dull cells from the surface of skin, diminishes the appearance of fine lines, refines and smoothes skin texture, unclogs pores and bestows a more youthful appearance to skin. And its effects are cumulative in nature.
According to a recent study by the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, the use of chemical peels rose 46% in 2003. Of course, in addition to cosmetic procedures, women turn to creams, lotions, gels, oils and masks to beautify their skin. These products have created a $5.5 billion industry in the U.S.1 In fact, there are so many types of anti-aging products available that product selection and purchase becomes very confusing. In fact, a survey by the American Academy of Dermatology found that 94% of women are confused by myriad antiaging treatments available both overthe-counter and by prescription.2
An Array of ChoicesThere are a variety of at-home facial peels available. Consumers are advised to select the product for their specific skin type. Some contain a combination of AHAs and others use only glycolic acid as the primary active. Furthermore, there are proprietary glycolic acid peel solutions available at dermatologists’ office, which range in strength from 20-70%. They are not neutralized or buffered and usually elicit noticeable exfoliation. Different strength products are used by professionals, and are based on the patient’s skin type and desired level of exfoliation. Professionals watch out for key signals such as irritation, burning and stinging associated with any product. Such reactions are not permitted to manifest by continuously rinsing with cool water followed by a treatment with a facial moisturizer to provide relief and protection.
Exfoliation MethodsGlycolic acid works by stimulating new growth of skin collagen by breaking down the substance in skin that holds the cells together. This removes dead cells and gradually
267 AT-HOME FACIAL PEELS ENTER THE MAINSTREAM
leaves behind a layer of smoother and softer skin. There are two classes of peels—laser and chemical.
Laser peels are used to treat wrinkles, acne scars and sun-damaged skin. They provide cosmetic benefits and improve skin. The procedure is performed by dermatologists.
There are three categories of chemical peels—superficial, medium and deep.At-home peels fall into the superficial and medium categories. They are very popular
and remove only the epidermal cells. Glycolic acid is usually the active at a level of 8-10% and a pH between 3.5-4.0. It is used to lighten superficial age spots and fine wrinkles. By carefully following label directions, the consumer can generally expect satisfactory results.
According to Dr. Matarasso, associate clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California at San Francisco, the variables affecting the depth of superficial chemical peels include the agent concentration, the number of applications, the frequency of repeated treatments and the duration the agent is kept in contact with the skin. With so-called superficial peeling agents, it may not be possible to reach the same end point as with a medium-depth peel; however, it is possible to push it quite deep and get sufficient exfoliation or into the papillary dermis.
Medium peels contain trichloroacetic acid (TCA). Dermatologists use these peels to treat wrinkles, skin pigment problems, advanced sun-damaged skin, age lines and blemishes.
Deep peels are performed with solutions containing phenol and correct more severe conditions. Dermatologists determine which of the medium or deep peels are suitable for their patients. They generally produce long-lasting results, but also have several disadvantages including uneven lightening of the skin, scarring and infection. These peel procedures are best performed by dermatologists.
At-Home Product OfferingsThere are few side effects associated with at-home superficial peels, and they can be minimized if directions are closely followed. Sometimes it is common for consumers to
Avon continues to expand its successful Anew franchise with a variety of innovative products. One of the newest additions is Anew Clinical 2- Step Facial Peel.
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feel a slight burning sensation that may last a short time. Consumers are advised to use moisturizers with sunscreen at all times and it is advisable to avoid direct exposure to sunlight. Depending on the depth of the peel, skin returns to normal fairly quickly.
Brands such as Avon, Lancôme and Neutrogena have all added at-home facial peels to their lines. As a result, consumers can pick and choose peels according to their individual requirements. It is just a matter time before other companies launch at-home facial peels because these products offer consumers advantages in cost, convenience and perceivable results in a short period of time.
“Peels treat the face like a canvas,” observed Katie Rodan, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford University. “They can make the whole complexion look brighter and younger.”
Here’s a review of some popular brands and their product claims.
Avon Anew Clinical• After one use, see a smooth, radiant texture, more refined clarity and unclogged
pores;• After four uses (one week), the benefits intensify. Skin appears less lined and more
even-toned with smaller looking pores;• 100% of women showed improvement in texture, clarity and clogged pores;• 81% showed a boost in luminosity;• Continued use delivers optimal results. Two-step facial peels help renew environmentally-
and sun-damaged skin, virtually erasing skin imperfections over time;• More than half of the panelists displayed a decrease in the appearance of age spots
and freckles;• Nearly 66% had less blotchy skin;• 81% experienced a decrease in fine wrinkles;• 91% showed improvement in even skin tone;• Every woman tested showed an improvement in overall signs of aging and• Dermatologist tested and noncomedogenic.• Neutrogena Advanced Solutions• Instantly improves skin texture, tone and clarity;• Transforms dull skin into vibrant, radiant skin;• Smooths away the appearance of dry, fine lines and• Helps stimulate surface skin cell renewal.
Lancôme Resurface Peel• Enhances skin radiance (86%);• Improves skin texture (98%);• Improves skin tone (88%);• Improves uniformity of complexion (73%) and• Minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Ellen Lange Retexturizing Kit• Exfoliates skin with glycolic acid, enzymes and microbeads;• Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles;• Renews and rejuvenates environmentally and sun-damaged skin and• Gives skin a healthy glow.
269 AT-HOME FACIAL PEELS ENTER THE MAINSTREAM
MD Skincare Daily Facial Peel• For normal, dry and problem skin, the ready-to-use pad is a unique, two-step
system• Pads contain a precise blend of alpha- and beta hydroxy acids, antioxidants
(vitamins A, C and E), soothing green tea extract and an oil-free moisturizer to give skin of any age a healthier, more vibrant appearance.
DDF 7-Day Radiance Peel Kit• Effectively minimizes fine lines and wrinkles, smooths skin texture and reduces
pore size while diminishing free radical damage;• Renews environmentally and sun-damaged skin, improving skin density and
firmness;• Supports healthy cell renewal by restoring skin’s own collagen-building function;• Exfoliation properties may be used to help prevent and control blemishes;
Therapy Systems• A glycolic peel that you can use at home.
ConclusionDermatologists, aestheticians and plastic surgeons have performed facial peel procedures for years. Now, with the birth of at-home peels, consumers can expect satisfactory results without having to visit a doctor’s office. In time, these products will become very popular with consumers because they are safe, easy to use and require no recovery time.
As the category grows and evolves we will learn new insights that will become foundations for future products and help baby boomers retain a youthful look for years to come.
References:1. Facial Skincare. U.S. February 2002. Mintel International Group Ltd.2. Facing the Age-old Question: How to turn back the hands of time. American Academy
of Dermatology. Schaumburg, IL. Nov. 6, 2003.
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ENHANCING THE PROPERTIES OF ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS
WELCOME TO THIS NEW COLUMN, which will review anti-aging and cosmeceutical ingredients, products and claims. Many raw material suppliers have, in recent years, increased their rate of innovation by forming partnerships
with their counterparts in other parts of the world such as South America, Europe and Asia. It would be helpful to seek out raw material suppliers who provide extensive ingredient research support, even sometimes clinical support. For a given anti-aging ingredient, different suppliers develop their own proprietary platforms to either improve the stability or make it more bio-available. The information presented here does not have automatic endorsement of the author or the publisher. It is strongly recommended that confirmatory studies be carried out prior to market launch of such products.
The continued growth of the antiaging category is driven by a stream of new and innovative ingredients and products in response to demands of health-conscious consumers who have decided to halt the march of time and remain forever youthful by embracing all kinds of new anti-aging products and cosmetic procedures.
A Growing MarketMedically-advanced cosmeceutical products have already proliferated, and this trend continues to gain momentum. Analysts expect the global market to generate revenue of as much as $56 billion in 2007, up from $43 billion in 2002.1 In cosmeceuticals, the current marketing strategy is to include medical or clinical authorities to boost the credibility of the cosmeceutical brand. As the cosmeceutical industry continues to evolve, research and development strategies will shift more toward pharmaceuticaltype products. Successful companies of the future will be able to maintain competitive differentiation on the basis of proven results and distribution through healthcare professionals.2
According to “Fear of Aging, 2003,” from Datamonitor, New York, NY, older consumers are especially receptive to adding dietary supplements to their health regimens to retard the mental and physical effects of aging, as well as “trading up” in terms of luxury topical skin care products that fight (or camouflage) signs of aging. The report advised marketers, “It is important to realize that today’s mid-lifers are going to look and behave much younger than previous generations. They are redefining the process of aging. Instead of retiring, many are choosing to stay at work longer because they can, while others are going back to school. They are proud of their age and there is recognition that they have survived the test of time.”
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That said, older consumers are still willing to try anti-aging products that contain a variety of effective, yet difficult-to-work-with ingredients, one of which is salicylic acid.
Formulation ChallengesThis well-known monographed antiacne active also doubles as an outstanding anti-aging ingredient because it promotes exfoliation in the pores and on the skin surface, providing an anti-aging, skin-smoothing effect. Many cosmetic companies are combining alpha and beta hydroxy acids primarily because they have the effect of exfoliating skin. The percentage of the active in the formula varies depending on the end use of the product. For rinse-off products such as facial cleansers, lower levels are used, whereas for leave-on products such as creams, moisturizers and serums, relatively higher levels are used. It is also known through studies that products containing salicylic acid are less irritating than products containing alpha hydroxy acids while maintaining their efficacy. One should always remember that the design of the vehicle can also dramatically affect the bioavailability of the active. Sometimes powerful molecules can become ineffective or the activity of the weak molecules gets enhanced. Furthermore, dosage forms selection such as liquid, semisolid, lipophilic, hydro-alcoholic or hydrophilic, along with the choice of the vehicle can significantly affect the behavior of the system.
In the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) topical acne monograph, salicylic acid is recognized as safe and effective at 0.5-2.0% levels when formulated into over-thecounter (OTC) acne products in a form suitable for topical application. It is also approved at a level of 1.8- 3.0% in an OTC monograph on “drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrhic dermatitis and psoriasis.” There are numerous skin care products available that contain salicylic acid; some are OTC, and others are available by prescription. Salicylic acid is used to treat hyperkeratosis of the follicular epithelium in acne vulgaris skin lesions.
As a peeling agent, salicylic acid has the potential to irritate the skin. It is an oil-soluble compound which is a crystalline solid, and has poor solubility in water and common polyols. Most facial moisturizers and skin lotions are oil-in-water emulsions, and as a result are difficult to incorporate into emulsions. It is also soluble in ethanol at a level of 37% w/w. Most emulsion formulations contain ethanol in order to get sufficient quantities of salicylic acid into the formula. However, ethanol is drying and irritating to the skin, and also may enhance salicylic acid’s absorption into the blood stream. In ethanolbased emulsion and gel products, salicylic acid sometimes forms in situ crystals. There are delivery systems such as Orgasol, PolyPore, Micro Sponge, etc. that utilize porous micro particles which are usually polymers with high internal surface area such as polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and polyamides. They are capable of absorbing oil and sebum while their release mechanism is influenced by surface area, pore diameter and loading dose. Because these delivery systems are open in nature, it could impact stability because the active release occurs simply by diffusion.
Liponyl N30 SALipo Chemical has developed a unique way to deliver salicylic acid to the skin. Liponyl N30 SA is a 30% anhydrous solution of salicylic acid entrapped into highly porous polyamide particles where its release mechanism depends on its diffusion. It is a white, free-flowing powder containing 15% salicylic acid in acid form. Free salicylic acid is known to be a mild skin irritant and is readily absorbed through the skin.3 On the other hand, entrapped salicylic acid demonstrates decreased absorption through the skin due to its prolonged release from this compound, hence reducing skin irritation.
An in-vitro skin permeation and cumulative irritation study comparing a lotion containing 1% free salicylic acid with another formulation containing 1% entrapped
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salicylic acid compound showed a prolonged release of salicylic acid to the skin from a topical product while reducing irritation. Needless to say, delivery vehicles such as liquid, semi-solid, lipophilic, hydro-alcoholic and hydrophilic generally impact the bioavailability of the active.
Salicylic acid-based products overall are less irritating than AHA products. Liponyl N30 SA offers interesting insight into salicylic acid reservoir into the epidermis while reducing irritation.
References:1. W. Lewis, President, Wendy Lewis & Co. Ltd., New York, NY.2. F. Porter, President, Osmotics Corp., Denver, CO.3. Lipo Chemicals Inc 207 19th Avenue Paterson, New Jersey 07504.
Salicylic acid can be difficult to incorporate into skin care creams and lotions. Lipo Chemical has developed novel technology to make the job easier for the cosmetic chemist.
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THERE WILL BE BLOOD; A NEW IDEA IN ANTI-AGING
id you know that blood has the ability to heal the body and benefit the skin, when formulated into a topical product? To understand the concept, this column will briefly review a novel blood cream (MC1), which is the brainchild of Dr. Barbara Sturm, a renowned German physician who specializes in the field of facial aesthetics and skin care. She is also known for her innovative, non-surgical approach to younger-looking skin.
Sturm started her career as an orthopedic surgeon, which is where she discovered the healing abilities of blood. She worked with a doctor who drew patients’ blood, processed it and created “factors” that he would re-inject into the patients’ joints to calm inflammation. Sturm applied this practice to the skin, as skin cells and cartilage cells work in the very same way. She came up with a moisturizer infused with anti-inflammatory proteins derived from patient’s blood. Sturm also invented a syringe that features irregularly-shaped glass beads that mimic the surface of the wounded skin.
The white blood cells recognize these glass beads as an open skin wound and they start producing healing factors. This blood cocktail is highly anti-inflammatory in nature. It has abundant growth factors and regenerative proteins. Sturm draws a walnut- sized amount of blood using a patented syringe. The blood is incubated for six hours and heated to 98.6°F (body temperature). Blood is separated in a centrifuge and the white blood cells are stimulated to produce two healing proteins. They are Interleukin 1- antagonist, which reduces inflammation, and TGF-beta, which is responsible for strengthening the skin tissue and stimulating collagen growth to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. In one day, the blood ends up forming 40 times the number of healing factors in untreated blood. Plasma is put into a cream and delivered to the patient within one to two days following the blood draw.
Benefits in BloodDr. Sturm’s cream is the only one that makes plasma available for topical at-home use. The product is paraben-, fragrance- and mineral oil-free. One jar costs $1,400! According to Dr. Sturm, skin feels great, collagen production is stimulated and inflammation reduced; however, no independent trials have proven these claims.
Reputable studies do show, however, that platelet-rich plasma (PRP) can help tissue heal faster when injected. Many dermatologists also inject PRP into the scalp to stimulate
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follicles and grow hair. You need three to four monthly treatments initially, but only one every six months or even less after that.
“We offer facial PRP treatments to treat sun damage and acne scars. Patients have smoother, more even skin in as little as two weeks,” explained Neil Sadick, a New York City dermatologist. “We are just tapping into plasma’s possibilities particularly when we apply it topically right after fractional lasers and needling devices, which help deliver plasma to the lower layers of the skin more effectively.”
The odorless cream developed by Sturm is said to be biocompatible with skin. It’s not red either; it looks like any other moisturizer. When Dr. Sturm tested her blood treatment on the face, she reported the treated skin immediately looked fresher and younger and the effects were long-lasting. Then, she developed the blood cream (MC1), a product custom made for individual clients. She named her company Molecular Cosmetics, because she believes her products work at the cellular level.
In addition to the blood proteins, purslane and scullcap are two other main ingredients in her skin care range. Both ingredients have topical effect on the skin, comparable to MC1 cream. Furthermore, in 2009, the Nobel Prize for medicine was given to the scientific research of purslane, which contains, according to Sturm, an enzyme that is able to activate the telomerase, the socalled “fountain-of-youth” enzyme in cells. This combination of actives makes Sturm’s skin care line something unique in the cosmetic sector. She cautions that the potency of these actives diminish over time; therefore, the cream should be used within 12 weeks. Her skin care range is available for purchase online at Space NK. Some of the product benefits include a reduction of pore size and acne breakouts. Sturm pairs the blood powered cream (MC1) with more traditionally-derived anti-aging ingredients like purslane and antioxidants to tackle fine lines and wrinkles, especially on the neck and chest. These upper body areas show signs of aging first because there are fewer oil glands in these skin areas. We know that dry skin sags more quickly; exacerbating the problem, generally speaking, there is less fatty tissue and collagen in that area of the face.
A Natural Ingredient!With consumer interest in all things natural, it’s only natural that an “anti-aging blood cream” has become a favorite of celebrities and beauty editors because of its superior skin benefits. While I applaud this technology, I think its skin benefits may be only of temporary nature. To be effective, the growth factors derived from blood must reach deep in the dermis. Taking a topical route would be unsuccessful because of its high molecular weight. Longer lasting results are possible by way of injection.
My hypothesis is supported by Dr. Zoe Draelos, who agrees that growth factors are one of the most controversial cosmetic ingredient in terms of safety. In the past, it had been assumed that growth factors are safe, because they are large molecular weight proteins that cannot penetrate the stratum corneum. Thus, they have limited ability to contact the viable epidermis and dermis to impact living cells.
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PROBIOTICS PLAY A KEY ROLE IN MAINTAINING SKIN HEALTH
Probiotics are “body-friendly” bacteria that help balance our “good” and “bad” bacteria to help strengthen the immune system and support the body’s ability to remain healthy. Probiotics are live bacterial culture that, when applied topically, influence the composition of skin microflora. The first mention of topical probiotics as a therapeutic treatment for skin conditions appeared in the medical literature in 1912, and was termed “topical bacteriotherapy.” It was not until 1999 that researchers were able to hone-in on exactly how probiotic application to the skin might improve dermatological health. They found that S. thermophilus, a species of probiotic typically found in yogurt increased ceramide production in keratinocytes, the cells that create our skin, strengthening the lipid barrier of the skin and make it more resilient to dryness.1
The cosmetic industry studied probiotic technology for nearly 15 years; finally, in 2017, researchers understand how it can help skin, according to New York City-based dermatologist Whitney Bowe MD. Recently there have also been an increasing number of skin care products entering the market touting probiotics. In this column, we will briefly review the science supporting the use of topical probiotics in skin care products.
Clinical StudiesResearch has shown that the bacteria in our gut interacts with the immune system, which results in changes in skin. Harmful bacteria in the gut can lead to inflammation like redness, acne and rosacea. It is advisable to incorporate foods and drinks that are rich in probiotics, like yogurt, miso soup, sauerkraut and Kombucha (fermented tea).
Some prefer to take a probiotic supplement, too. Using a topical probiotic is beneficial, as it offers a protective shield and triggers the production of natural moisturizers in the skin. The October issue of Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology published research findings that middle-aged adults showed improved skin hydration and elasticity and reduced wrinkles after taking a clinical dosage of oral probiotic supplement Lactobacillus plantarum for 12 weeks.
“Scientists are just starting to discern what constitutes a normal, healthy skin microbiome,” said Alan C. Logan, an independent researcher and co-author of “Your Brain on Nature.”
It is clear, however that the microbes residing on healthy skin make important contributions to the proper barrier maintenance. They also interact with the immune system and protect against harmful bacteria. A cream containing the lysate of S.
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thermophiles was found to significantly increase stratum corneum ceramide levels in healthy females after two weeks of application.2 Skin hydration was also improved following use of probiotic lysatecontaining cream.
Through the fermentation process, probiotic bacteria produce acidic compounds like lactic acid, reducing the pH of the skin. The skin microbiome is influenced by pH, sebum content, barrier function and hydration.3 A slight acidic pH favors the growth of proprionbacterium, it discourages the growth of most pathogens. Probiotic strains produce potent antimicrobials such as bacteriocidins, organic acids that prevent pathogen adhesion while more alkaline pH encourages the majority of resident species.
Proprionbacterum species are more plentiful where sebaceous glands are present. Dry areas of the skin have the greatest diversity of species while having the lowest absolute number of bacteria. Furthermore, extrinsic factors such as geographic location, occupation and the use of antibiotics or cosmetics can influence skin microbiodata.4
Studies indicate that alterations in skin microflora play a significant role in conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and skin cancer.5 Researchers6 demonstrated that a cream containing 10% B. Longum lysate improved sensitive skin after two months compared to vehicle control. There was a reduction in stinging after lactic acid, as well as an improvement in clinical dryness. In vitro studies on B. Longum lysate suggest, that it may reduce skin sensitivity by reducing neuron reactivity and neuron accessibility.7
Products and BenefitsAlthough probiotic bacteria have documented skin benefits, live cultures are generally not preferred in cosmetics. Rather than including live bacteria cultures, many of the probiotic skin care formulae use bacteria fragments or metabolites. The reason is that there is not currently any science developed to support the idea that live cells are any more effective when applied to the skin than these fragments. In near future, some brands using live bacteria might emerge.
In 2013, the American Academy of Dermatology proposed the use of probiotics in the treatment of rosacea.8 Prebiotics are nondigestible, plant-based carbohydrates that discourage the growth of pathogens while preserving beneficial bacteria. Prebiotics can be incorporated into skin care products and are an excellent alternative to live bacteria.9 Bacterial lysates are also used in cosmetic formulations. Bacterial cell lysates provide broad biologic activity that can be harnessed to provide skin benefits. Skin care products containing these are well positioned for treating conditions characterized by an altered microflora. Cosmetics containing probiotics may also be helpful for improving skin health and beauty.10
According to Dr. Erin Gilbert MD, Ph.D., probiotics are one of the most cutting edge concepts in skin care today. Probiotics based topical products address and correct a multitude of skin conditions including premature aging, acne, hypersensitivity, dullness, rosacea and inflammation. Probiotics when taken internally help with the health of digestive and immune system. It is beneficial in all skin types. Probiotics have proven themselves to be a powerful tool to achieve healthy, balanced and radiant skin.
Yun Company just launched (April 2017) to the European market two products contain live probiotics: ACN and ACN + creams with probiotic microcapsules. The probiotic bacteria are first deactivated and then stabilized by microencapsulation. Encapsulating the bacteria provide protection against the adverse environmental conditions in cosmetic formulations, thereby improving viability. The performance of the probiotic ingredient can be negatively affected by the preservative and emulsification system in the cosmetic product. Microcapsules provide protection. When product is applied topically, the microcapsules burst and deliver the probiotic. These products are packaged in airless tubes to prevent oxidative damage and are proven to last between six
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months to a year with no chemicals added to preserve the formulation. All products are biome friendly and they do not need refrigeration.
More and more companies are now entering the probiotic market including L’Oréal and Estée Lauder. Clinique’s Redness Solutions foundation, for example features lactobacillus to reduce flushing by balancing the skin’s pH. The British brand Aurelia is built around bifidobacteria, which is said to strengthen the skin’s barrier, and Elizabeth Arden’s SuperStart Renewal Booster contains a probiotic blend believed to boost skin’s natural defenses.
More Study AheadIn cosmetics, there is no standardized definition of probiotics and this makes it very difficult for consumers to really understand what to expect from a cosmetic product carrying a probiotic label. The health of our skin comes from deep within us. In recent years, study of the microbiome has led to innovations in medicine and health, including dermatology. The clinical studies conducted with topical prebiotics, probiotics and bacterial cell lysates do provide demonstrable skin benefits. It appears that more studies are warranted to confirm these skin benefits.
References:1 Bockmuhl D. et al IFSCC 20006:9:1-52 Dr. Marzio et al. Increase of skin ceramide lev els in aged subjects. Int. Jr.
Immunopathology Pharmacol. 2008, 21(1) : 137-1433 Zeeuwen PL et al. J. Microbiome and skin dis eases Curr Opin allergy Clin immune
2013, 13 : 420-514.4 Holland KR et al. Cosmetics- what is their in fluence on skin microflora ? Am. Jr. Clin.
Derm. 2002, 3(7) 445-4495 Salva A. et al. Role of the skin microbiome in atopic dermatitis. Clin. Transl. Allergy
2014: 4:336 Gueniche A. et al, Exptal, Derm. 2009, 19 :e1-e87 Di Marzio et al Invest. Derm. 113(1),98-106.8 SharmaD et al Antiaging effects of probiotics Jr. Drugs Derm. 2016:15(1) 9-12.9 Vermuri R-C et al. Intnl. Jr. of Medical Science 12(5) 387- 39610 Derm. Times, Aug.8, 2016. Dr. P. Ferris)
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GOOD SKIN TONE REMAINS A GLOBAL BEAUTY ATTRIBUTE
IN VICTORIAN TIMES, aristocratic ladies prevented sun and brown spots by always remaining under open umbrellas while wearing bonnets and gloves. Fair skin was highly admired. They also used leadbased face powder to achieve a pale fair look.
Needless-to-say, there were many other dangerous beauty aids in use. It is well known that use of mercury or excessive hydroquinone in skin care products have resulted in serious health complications and skin rash known as ochronosis. This condition results in permanent skin disfiguration marked by abnormal skin thickness, blotches and grayish patches. Many dermatologists, however, dispute FDA warnings regarding hydroquinone.
By the mid-20s, facial skin begins to lose its smooth texture and firm tone on account of cross-linking of the normally pliable and well-organized collagen fibers becoming rigid and disordered, diminishing their ability to stretch. Strong and resilient elastin fibers contribute to a firm tone of the skin. Such skin easily snaps back from its stretched state. Cumulative damage from the sun often emerges in the form of sun-damage later
Lighter skin shades are highly regarded in many Southeast Asian countries.
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in life. Fair skin tone consumers easily show uneven pigmentation and broken blood vessels. Healthy skin is free of any visible hyperpigmentation and it appears radiant, clear and even toned and is highly aspired by all racial and ethnic groups because it represents good skin health and beauty.
This column reviews skin tone products and differences relative to skin tone and beauty perception in the global consumer’s mind.
Beauty PerceptionAccording to renowned research dermatologist Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, “skin tone” is a marketing term that has little dermatologic meaning. It is a concept combining tactile smoothness, even color and even texture. Short-term application of botanical face masks cannot produce this benefit, yet they may provide a pleasant period of aromatic relaxation desirable to some consumers. Toners, astringents and tonics, on the other hand, have nothing to do with “skin tone.” They are liquid product dosage forms that are formulated appropriately for skin type, and are routinely used after the facial cleansing step to provide a comforting skin feel sensation.
In Asian countries, anti-aging is all about skin transforming into a lighter, whiter shade. Light, fair skin tone is most desirable and is deeply rooted in the culture. Thai women have an obsession to be as pale as porcelain. They religiously apply whitening products formulated to help prevent the production and formation of melanin hoping that it will diminish the spots that often affect their self-esteem. For Egyptian women too, beauty is often defined by paler skin.
In India, fair skin is so prized that all Bollywood actresses have pale fair skin, and it is desired by every Indian woman, young or old, fair or not. Furthermore across Southeast Asia, but in India in particular, fair skin is associated with beauty. It is believed that lighter skin women have advantages of easily finding jobs, love, romance and public admiration, while a dark-skinned woman faces uphill battles in all aspects of life. Any product, be it cream, soap or lotion, as long as it claims to lighten the skin tone, is easier to market to these women. Global cosmetic companies do a thriving business in Asia in this category because they provide what women want. All advertising messages of such products suggest that not only their skin will get fairer, but their social and professional standing will surely benefit with regular use of these products.
The social impact of such advertising messages is not discussed in this column, but it is important to note that recently a cosmetic skin whitening product based on gene-silencing technology has resulted in claims of racism. The cream, “Gloriel,” is able to reduce the production of melanin, the substance responsible for skin pigmentation. The Nobel Prize winning technique of gene-silencing known as RNA interference was expanded by two graduate students at Carlton University, Canada. The students have defended their creation against claims of racism according to CBS News.
Derms’ RecommendationsLighter skin is also a dream of most women in China, Japan and Korea. No surprise then, that these countries are also big markets for skin whitening products. Skin whiteners are among the most popular cosmetics products across Asia, Africa and the Middle East, with ranges including moisturizers, shower gels and deodorants. In 2007, sales of whitening products accounted for approximately 30% of skin care sales in Japan and 20% in Korea. The skin lightening cosmetic market is big business in China and India, as well as in some African and Caribbean countries. The leading global brands of skin whiteners globally in 2007 were from key Japanese manufacturers such as Shiseido’s Elixir Superieur Whitening, Kanebo’s Blanchir and Kose’s Whitist. There were also significant sales for non-store retail brands such as DHC’s White Cream and Camu Camu Whitening, Noevir’s Blancnew and Menard’s Fairlucent.1
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In the U.S. and Western Europe, however, beauty is closely linked to skin free of fine lines and wrinkles. Based on beauty perception, European skin lightening products are developed and recommended to be used to treat age spots, brown spots, freckles and melasma, with the objective being to obtain even tone and complexion whereas Asian skin lightning products are developed and marketed to alter skin color, diminish brown spots, sort of more fundamental correction. These products are used to remove dark spots, freckles and discolorations. They are purchased by people of all races but are popular with darkskinned consumers who have pigment disorders. Some OTC brands include Ambi, Porcelena, Black Opal Fade Gel and Esoterica containing 2% hydroquinone. There are several prescription skin-bleaching creams containing up to 5% hydroquinone. Because of the FDA’s proposed ban, many companies are now developing new formulations that rely on alternative active ingredients.
Consumers routinely seek dermatologist’s advice for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Some dermatologist-recommended drugstore brands include Skin Effects Advanced Brightening Complex, Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Radiant Eye Brightening Cream and La RochePosay Mela-D Skin Lightening Lotion. Recommended department store brands include Dr. Brandt Laser Lightening Day Lotion, DDF Intensive Holistic Lightener, Kinerase Brightening Anti-Aging System, Murad Lighten and Brighten Eye Treatment, Patricia Wexler M. D. Dermatology Under-Eye Brightening Cream, La Prairie The Radiance Collection, La Mer The Radiant Facial, ReVive Blanche Whiten, Lighten, Brighten.2
Unfortunately, in their enthusiasm to lighten their skin, many consumers don’t follow directions. They do not know that lightening products can damage their skin when overused. For example, products that contain “extra strength” hydroquinone may cause permanent dark spots.
ConclusionsAs we have seen, marketing claims for skin lightening products sold in India play upon women’s insecurities that skin color determines their success in life. This reinforces deeply rooted prejudices against women with dark skin. European and American women strive to have rosy pink complexion and do not pursue an exclusively pale, porcelain look.
Unilever, marketer of Dove products, had a “Real Beauty” campaign that encouraged women in the U.S. and Europe to embrace the way they look. Continued research has brought to light some wonderful hydroquinone substitute ingredients which have
Japan is a major market for skin whiteners. Leading players include Shiseido, Kanebo and Kose.
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demonstrated excellent properties for improving skin tone and lightening pigmented areas of the skin. It is safe to conclude that consumers around the world rate skin tone asatopbeautyattribute.•
References:1. Euromonitor International (1/2/09).2. “Youth Equation,” J. Dover M.D. and Cara Birnbaum, page 91.
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FROM THE INSIDE-OUT: BEAUTY SUPPLEMENTS
WE ALWAYS hear that beauty is only skin deep, but in reality external beauty—a smooth, blemish-free complexion and healthy youthful skin—is exactly what everyone wants and desperately wishes to hold on to, whatever the cost.
Intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging are two biologically independent processes. Intrinsic refers to the changes that result from the passing of time and it is at a genetically predetermined rate. Extrinsic aging occurs by exposure to the elements and pollution. The second of these two factors is somewhat under our control. Photo-aging is an example of extrinsic aging. This can be reduced by wearing sunscreens, avoiding smoking, pollution and other environmental toxins and using milder skin care preparations. The pursuit of maximizing one’s beauty may lead one to dermatologists, plastic surgeons, yoga class or trips to the spa. Consumers have realized that beauty and health go hand in hand. For the effect to be long-term, one can take vitamin supplements designed to nourish from within, known as nutraceuticals, which are oral supplements with specific cosmetic effects.
Market DemandCosmetic and skin care companies both in the U.S. and overseas have responded to the aging consumer’s desire for products that combine cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals to moisturize and improve skin. Consumers are seeking alternative measures to plastic surgery and Botox, and they’ve discovered that vitamins and supplements are a more natural solution. Consumers are realizing that what’s consumed is just as important to skin as what is applied to it. Consumers now readily blame factors such as stress, lack of sleep, poor nutrition, smoking and pollution for their dull skin and other signs of premature aging.
According to the National Marketing Institute (NMI), Harleysville, PA, there is a general recognition among consumers that people are not as healthy today as they ought to be. According to NMI’s Health & Wellness Trends database (HWTD), two-thirds of Americans believe that “vitamins and minerals are effective in preventing and maintaining certain health conditions.” (See table 1)
A market research company, The Freedonia Group, Inc., Cleveland, OH, in a recent report entitled “Anti-Aging Products,” indicated that the demand for formulated appearance-enhancing products is projected to increase more than 12% a year through 2007 to $2.5 billion. New product introductions and the passage of the relatively affluent baby boomer generation through middle-age will stimulate demand for value-added, age-defying products. The report further states that for the skin, Botox and age-defying lotions will experience stellar growth with gains of 16% and 11% per annum respectively through 2007. (See table 2)
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Table 1: Vitamin Consumption is Still Rising
Usage of product by the general population in 2003 vs. 1999, along with compound annual growth rate (CAGR). All percentages are rounded.
Product 2003 1999 CAGR
Vitamins 89% 86% .8%
Minerals 56% 59% 1%
Herbal supplements 34% 42% -5%
Condition-specific supplements
29% *22% 9%
Weight loss products 28% 28% .1%
Homeopathic remedies 16% 18% -3%
*-Not asked in 1999; datum from year 2000
Source: The Natural Marketing Institute (NMI), Harleysville, PA.
Table 2: Demand for Anti-Aging Products In millions of U.S. dollars
Product 1997 2002 2007
Appearance 670 1,420 2,510
Chemicals/formulated product
0.17 0.16 0.16
Anti-aging product chemicals
1,045 2,765 4,690
Pharmaceutical active ingredients
375 1,495 2,665
Hormones 160 305 348
Vitamins and antioxidants 182 270 390
Herbal extracts 95 177 300
Glucosamine 31 86 113
Botulinum toxin 12 85 190
Minerals 66 75 92
Proteins 45 73 110
Other 79 199 482
Source: The Natural Marketing Institute (NMI), Harleysville, PA.
Meanwhile, according to Datamonitor, a UK-based market research firm, there is growing awareness among consumers about beauty from the inside out. Europeans recognized this link years ago, but it is getting stronger in the U.S.
Hot Anti-Aging ActivesAnti-aging materials are expected to record double-digit growth through 2007. These products include memoryenhancing neurological agents, botulinum toxin for wrinkle
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reducing applications, co-enzyme Q-10, soy extracts and a host of small volume herbal extracts including lutein, lycopene, black cohosh and red clover, all of which are used in both dietary supplements and cosmeceuticals. We all know the important role that vitamins C and E play in the never-ending war against free radicals. Now researchers are optimistic about the benefits of supplements such as alpha lipoic acid, bioflavinoids, co-enzyme Q10, flaxseed oil, ginkgo, melatonin, pycnogenol, soy, green tea, vitamins A, B6 and D, folic acid, kinetin, copper peptides, amino peptides, kojic acid, DMAE, human and plant growth factors, vitamin K, grape seed extract and alpha-, beta- and polyhydroxy acid. Promising minerals include chromium, magnesium, selenium and zinc.
Anti-aging hormones such as DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone) are now available in health food stores. Pregnenolone, the precursor to DHEA, is another hormone. These hormones are usually promoted for boosting immunity, vitality and memory and reducing the risk of heart disease.
Vitamins Improve SkinTo maintain healthy skin, nutrients play an important role; a few critical ones are detailed here. Vitamin C helps build collagen, which is the foundational structure between the body tissues, thus maintaining skin strength and elasticity. But be sure to take only the recommended daily allowance, since in large doses it affects vitamin B12 and folic acid absorption.
B vitamins help speed wound healing and prevent dry flaky skin, hence preventing premature wrinkling and skin roughness. Vitamin D curbs symptoms of psoriasis. Zinc, as well as vitamins A, C and K, help heal and repair cuts and scrapes. Ample intake of
Avon Healthy Remedies Balancing lotion alleviates the discomforts of menopause.
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water keeps skin moisturized and helps regulate function of sebaceous glands. Vitamin A repairs and normalizes epithelial tissues such as skin, thus helping to prevent skin roughness and premature wrinkles. Large doses of vitamin A could lead to dermatological problems and birth defects. The safest form of this vitamin is beta carotene. Healthy red blood cells are built by nutrients such as iron, copper, protein, B vitamins, folic acid and vitamin E. Skin becomes pale and appears dull when there is a deficiency of any of these nutrients. In small amounts, linoleic acid helps maintain moist, smooth skin. Antioxidant nutrients such as vitamins C, E and beta carotene have shown satisfactory results in slowing the rate of free radical damage to the skin.
Global LaunchesMany cosmetic researchers understand the important role that vitamins can play in skin care lines. Here are a few examples.
The Avon Wellness line “is a destination for women and their families that promotes a healthy lifestyle,” according to company literature.
The one-stop shop that is Avon Wellness focuses on products that help people feel healthier, look better and slow down the effects of aging. Avon Wellness line has launched Healthy Remedies Balancing lotion and VitAdvance AquaNew. One product is applied topically, while the other is to be taken orally.
The lotion was created for menopausal women to help alleviate the discomfort associated with that particular time in women’s lives.
“Avon’s Healthy Remedies Balancing lotion is proven to reduce the discomfort of night sweats and hot flashes in 14 days when applied twice daily to the entire body,” said Avon spokesperson Andrea Mielnicki.
Among other ingredients are black cohosh, soy extract and vitamins A and E. Other claims include diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, uplifting the neck area and moisturizing dry, sagging skin.
VitAdvance AquaNew is promoted as an “easy to swallow tablet that is a high-quality skin supplement.” The supplement is designed to replace “moisture generating components” that diminish as women age. Enhancing the skin’s natural moisture balance is a nourishing complex containing hyaluronic acid and a revival complex containing green tea leaf extract and glutathione. Consumers should take the product daily to enhance an anti-aging skin care regimen.
According to Bill Brace, Olay marketing director, Olay became intrigued with the scientific research linking nutritional intake and skin health. According to the company, women can expect to see improvement in the appearance of their skin after four weeks of taking Olay vitamins.
Olay’s Even Complexion is a nutritional supplement created to even skin tone and soothe skin. The line includes vitamins A and E, selenium and lycopene to help neutralize free radicals which can cause uneven color, pycnogenol to soothe skin and vitamins C and D, zinc and copper to boost skin’s ability to retain water and form new collagen and elastin.
Shiseido, a major Japanese cosmetic company, offers products that promote beauty from within. The lineup includes nutritional supplements and drinks to beautify the skin and body. Shiseido’s “Beauty Foods” consist of 18 products, each addressing different beauty issues. Gymrind is a weight loss tea containing magnesium and vitamins B1 and B2.
CollagenEx is promoted for stimulating the body’s collagen production with a combination of marine collagen, elastin and nucleic acid (DNA), chondroitin and vitamins B2, B6, C and E. This product claims to provide a younger, firmer complexion. In the near future, Shiseido, in partnership with Coca-Cola in Japan, is introducing products that target “body conscious” consumers. The initial products will include a beverage called Body Stylish Mist, which contains grapefruit juice and caffeine.
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L’Oréal has teamed up with Nestlé to form Laboratories Inneov to develop nutritional supplements that provide cosmetic benefits. The joint venture has launched “Inneov Firmness” and the company claims that it can improve the quality of skin, hair and nails by supplying nutrients essential to their physiology. The product is primarily intended for women over 40 who are concerned with sagging skin. It is formulated with lactolycopene in combination with vitamin C and soy isoflavones. It is commercialized as a pill with a recommended dose of three pills daily for three months. The benefits include firmer skin with enhanced vitality. Perfectil is a nutritional supplement available in the UK for skin, hair and nails. There are 24 nutrients formulated into each tablet to provide optimal cell performance and cell renewal along with antioxidants, plant extracts, vitamins and minerals.
According to the manufacturer, antioxidant vitamins C, E and beta carotene all play valuable roles in preventing damage to the skin. Vitamin C plays an integral role in collagen synthesis, while carotenoids help bolster the skin’s resistance to UV damage.
Professional ViewsHoward Murad, who markets a wrinkle-reducing dietary supplement pack, is also the author of Wrinkle Free Forever.
“As we age, loss of water directly translates into sagging, wrinkled and damaged skin,” writes Dr. Murad. “It is essential to maintain a healthy internal balance by constantly improving cells and connective tissue.”
He explains his scientifically proven Water Principle: If there is a sufficient amount of water in the skin, it will be thicker and smoother. There is a new resiliency and firmness to skin after using the dietary supplement pack. Damaged collagen and skin cells are repaired.
Amy Newburger, author of Looking Good At Any Age, agrees that the addition of nutraceuticals to existing cosmetic lines is a good idea. Furthermore, Ms. Newburger reports an improvement in the health and appearance of the skin of her patients who used Olay vitamins.
Lynn Laboranti of Pharmarite predicts that dietary supplements will gain momentum in the future as baby boomers age. She also expects rising health care costs will lead women to take supplements for prevention, and also women will seek alternative measures to plastic surgery, Botox injections and other invasive procedures. According to Ms. Laboranit, vitamins are more of a natural solution.
Benefits and Side EffectsThe vitamin-beauty category holds tremendous potential because consumers are beginning to realize that the traditional aging process does not have to be inevitable. Many supplements are powerful antioxidants which can neutralize the free radicals that damage cell membranes and impact vital enzymes that damage cellular DNA, which leads to aging. Health benefits are provided because some antioxidants dissolve in both lipids and water, empowering them to neutralize free radicals wherever they occur in the body. These supplements may delay the onset of age-related degenerative diseases.
Recently researchers at Johns Hopkins University found health risk for consumers taking larger doses (400IU or greater) of vitamin E. Not all vitamins providing good skin health have been rigorously studied. The FDA regulates only the safety of the supplements and not their efficacy. The companies do not have to perform clinical trials to make certain kinds of cosmetic claims. Instead, manufacturers cite existing independent studies of ingredients as the evidence of efficacy for their products. Companies also cite consumer research studies where users perceived improved effects, but some dermatologists are not convinced. Many studies on vitamins and skin have been done on consumers with
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skin disease or vitamin deficiency rather than consumers with normal skin and healthy diets. There are few clinical trials for various supplements which are broadly advertised in the media.
Furthermore, relative strengths of the actives studied in clinical trials are at a much higher level than found in the commercialized product. Some label claims are made which are not based on the outcome of clinical research. It is well recognized that daily consumption of multivitamins might be helpful for those consumers with unhealthy diets or some mild skin conditions.
Overall there is still no agreement whether regular consumption of vitamins is advisable for healthy consumers, since the foods they eat should be the best source of nutrients.
Also, it appears that there are no significant differences between skin companies’ supplements and those offered by pharmaceutical companies.
According to dermatologist Gervaise Gerstner, vitamins for the skin remain questionable.
“I wouldn’t add this on top of other vitamins that you may be taking,” advised Dr. Gerstner. “In extreme cases, nutrient intake can affect the skin.”
There are antibiotic treatments, which affect the skin from the inside, that she prescribes in cases of problem skin, though treatment is usually the first step. Topical treatments target the zone you want.
“I would prescribe an antibiotic topical ointment before an antibiotic (pill),” Dr. Gerstner added.
According to Nina Han Cheigh, an assistant professor at the University of Illinois Chicago School of Pharmacy, consumers should understand that increased costs don’t necessarily mean better results.
“In the strictest terms, these vitamins do not necessarily offer anything that is substantially better than a multivitamin, which contains many similar ingredients,” she insisted.
Ayurvedic ControversiesAyurveda is a science of diagnosis and treatment that uses herbs in partnership with breathing, meditation and yoga. It has been practiced in India for more than 2,500 years. It derives its name from the Sanskrit words ayuh, meaning “longevity” and veda, meaning “knowledge.” Proper therapeutic remedies are prescribed only after determining a person’s physical and mental characteristics (dosha). Throughout the U.S., Europe and Asia gentler herbal Chinese and ayurvedic remedies are experiencing renewed interest. But lately, they have fallen under a shadow of doubt and uncertainty. A recent study by Dr. Saper at Boston University, published in the latest issue of the Journal of the American Medical Association, found that about 20% of ayurvedic herbal supplements sold over the counter contain heavy metals such as lead, mercury and arsenic at levels that are sometimes well above limits.
These herbal medical supplements are not subject to regulation or approval by the Food and Drug Administration and can lead to serious medical conditions such as some types of cancers, skin disorders and, in some children, lower IQ or reduced growth. Additional studies should be undertaken to examine this further.
SummaryConsumers need to know what is hot and what is not. Information continues to play a vital role in building business. Consumers rely on product labels for information. If marketers more often look at some of the health and beauty concerns of consumers and then launch products to address that need, they will experience success while also
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benefiting the consumer. Consumers are more proactive than we realize. The inside-out beauty trend will build momentum and will move from a niche to a mass category because consumers now firmly believe that true beauty has to come from within.
Rising health care costs are expected to increase demand for vitamins as consumers search for less expensive, preventative measures.
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SEVERAL VERY BIG BEAUTY BENEFITS ARE DERIVED FROM MICRONUTRIENTS
From a relatively small base, the cosmetics antioxidant market is growing more slowly than the global beauty supplement market as a whole. According to Marketandmarkets.com, the cosmetics antioxidant market is projected to grow
from $109.0 million in 2017 to $150.9 million by 2023, which represents a compound annual growth rate of 5.6%. In comparison, global sales of beauty supplements totaled $3.5 billion in 2016 and is expected to reach $6.8 billion by the end of 2024, a CAGR of 8.6%, according to report by Goldstein Research, a marketing firm. This column will briefly review the role of micronutrients in anti-aging skin care formulas.
Micronutrients are essential elements needed, in small quantities, to sustain life. They include micro minerals and vitamins such as iron, cobalt, chromium, copper, iodine, manganese, selenium, zinc and molybdenum. They are also very popular additives in anti-aging skin care as they prevent oxidative damage. There are recommended allowances for each micronutrient. Vitamins, such as A, C and E are very commonly included in anti-aging products. Some anti-aging creams now include metals such as copper, which is necessary in collagen production or selenium, which functions as an antioxidant. Dietary deficiency of micronutrients such as vitamin C, proline, lysine, vitamin E, selenium, zinc and others accelerate the process of aging.
Other important micronutrients for healthy skin include green tea, carotenoids, lycopene, curcumin and coenzyme Q10. Vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and other nutrients nourish your skin whether you take them in supplement form, apply them directly to your skin; just make sure, you get enough from the foods you eat. Macronutrients (carbohydrates, proteins and lipids) work together with micronutrients to maintain the barrier functions of skin in the face of everyday challenges. Key micronutrients include zinc, selenium and copper. Skin nutrition may be enhanced directly through topical application. This complements dietary consumption leading to a stronger, healthier protective barrier. Some of the most popular cosmetic products on the market right now incorporate trace minerals and other micronutrients that play a vital role in skin and overall health. Some creams include micronutrient such as copper, which is necessary in collagen production, or selenium, which functions as an antioxidant through an alternative pathway.
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According to Zoe Draelos MD, metals such as selenium and copper have skin benefits when included in diet, but formulating them into a skin cream can be a challenge, because applying micronutrients to the skin may not be as effective as when consumed.
Selenium is crucial for facilitating metabolic processes, reproduction, DNA synthesis and thyroid function. It has powerful antioxidant properties. The best sources of selenium are organ meats, seafood (shrimp, crab, salmon), brazil nuts, eggs, sunflower seeds, chia seeds and mushrooms. Selenium is similar to vitamin E and actually works with vitamins to safeguard cell membranes, that protective coating around cells. This property makes selenium a key player when it comes to slowing the signs of aging. Research has shown that it protects against UV induced cell damage, skin inflammation and pigmentation. Inflammation is caused by UV light, stress and other factors which age skin, contributing to the breakdown of collagen. It thwarts production of inflammatory cytokines, molecules that can build up in the body and harm healthy skin. It soothes redness and sensitivity. Due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, selenium is a powerhouse for calming inflamed, irritated skin.
A Penny for Your Thoughts?In ancient Egypt, copper was believed to be the symbol of life that imparted magical powers to those who wore it. Copper is the most electrically conductive of all metal elements. It has potent biocidal properties and is involved in numerous physiological and metabolic processes that are critical for the appropriate functioning of nearly all human tissues. In skin, copper is involved in the synthesis and stabilization of extra cellular matrix skin proteins and angiogenesis.
Copper definitely plays an important role in maintaining healthy skin. According to Joshua Zeichner MD, Mount Sinai Hospital, it helps to develop collagen and elastin, which maintain the strength of the skin and it promotes the production of skin-plumping hyaluronic acid. It also has antibacterial and antifungal properties, which help prevent infections and that is why it has been used in wound care. Copper-enhanced lotions pose little danger unlike other heavy metals like silver.
Every decade brings new anti-aging ingredients: vitamins A and C, collagen, and now copper is having its moment. For example, Dorit Baxter Spa offered a post-surgery copper facial which was said to help heal and hydrate skin. The procedure also reduced redness and flaking caused by popular laser treatments. The treatment includes application of a topical copper cream which is said to increase luminosity and firmness without the risk of irritation associated with retinoids and glycolic acids.
The anti-aging category is filled with copper-based products; the list includes Strivectin SD Advanced Intensive Concentrate for wrinkles & stretch marks, Perricone MD Blue Plasma, Henricksen Ultimate Lift Firming Serum, Kiehl’s Powerful wrinkle reducing cream and Iluminage, which is actually a satin pillow case embedded with microscopic copper particle that was created by Cupron, a Virginia-based copper technology developer.
But let’s give the final word on copper’s benefits to Howard Murad MD, whose Age Reform Youth Builder dietary supplement includes copper, as well as zinc and vitamin C to form elastin.
“Studies show a 34% reduction in fine lines in five weeks. Pills or pillow cases, skin and scalp serums, but one thing is clear: those copper loving Egyptians were definitely onto something,” observed Murad.
CLINICAL
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CLINICAL STUDIES REVEAL COSMECEUTICALS’ BENEFITS
AS ANTI-AGING PRODUCT CLAIMS grow bolder every day, marketers face challenges from public health and government agencies, consumer and advertising watchdogs and competitors. Claims must be supported by objective
biophysical tests that are combined with consumer perception, clinical, safety and toxicology studies. To avoid regulatory or legal action, it is advisable to support each claim. Biophysical methods usually adequately support performance claims, and while these evaluations have not been standardized, their results are usually accepted because they are based on sound scientific principles and hence, are considered adequate for supporting claims. These biophysical evaluations are further strengthened by clinical evaluations by trained technicians and dermatologists.
Many anti-aging products, both topical and oral, contain well-known actives to make their products effective and also attract consumer attention by making compelling marketing claims. This column will review several of these actives as well as information on recent clinical studies. Marketers planning to conduct clinical trials should note that the typical clinical trial is double-blind and randomized. This method prevents the introduction of bias by dermatologists, patients and any other external influences.
Alpha Lipoic AcidThis potent, stable antioxidant is soluble in lipids and water and can be absorbed percutaneously. Researchers studied the effect of alpha lipoic acid (LA) on the protein collagen from high fructose-fed rat skin.1 The rats were divided into four groups of six each. Two groups of rats were fed with a high fructose diet (60g/100g diet) and administered either LA or 0.2 ml saline placebo for 45 days. The other two groups were fed a control diet containing starch (60g/100g diet) and administered either saline or lipoic acid. The rats were maintained for 45 days. Plasma glucose, insulin, fructosamine, protein glycation, and blood glycated hemoglobin (HbA1C) were measured.
Collagen was isolated from the skin and the physicochemical properties of collagen were studied. Fructose administration caused accumulation of the collagen in the skin. Extensive crosslinking was evidenced by enhanced glycation and AGE-linked fluorescence. Increased peroxidation and change in physicochemical properties such as
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shrinkage temperature, aldehyde content, solubility pattern, susceptibility to denaturing agents were observed in fructose-fed rats. SDS gel pattern of collagen from these rats showed elevated beta component of type I collagen. These changes were alleviated by the simultaneous administration of LA. Administration of LA to fructose-fed rats had a positive influence on both quantitative and qualitative properties of collagen. The study results demonstrated that fructose diet-induced skin collagen abnormalities were prevented by alpha lipoic acid leading to delay in the onset of diabetic skin complications.
Collagen SynthesisVitamin C is essential for collagen biosynthesis. It functions as a co-factor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase, the enzymes responsible for stabilizing and cross-linking collagen. Topically applied vitamin C enhances collagen production in human skin. Researchers studied two unrelated individuals with Ehlers-Danlos syndrome type VI, which is characterized by congenital hypotonia, lax joints, severe kyphoscoliosis, friable skin and hemorrhagic hypotrophic scars.2 The diagnosis was confirmed by decreased hydroxylysine residues in dermal collagen and decreased collagen lysl hydroxylase activity in their cultured skin fibroblasts. When patient 1 received oral sodium ascorbate (5g/d) for three weeks, ascorbate concentrations increased two-fold in plasma and 33-fold in urine. Urinary excretion of hydroxylysine and hydroxyproline increased during ascorbate administration. After one year, bleeding time, wound healing and muscle strength improved. Ascorbate supplementation (50 micrograms/mL) to confluent fibroblasts cultured from the two patients and controls increased hydroxyprolyl and hydroxylysyl residues of fibroblasts four- to sevenand three- to four-fold, respectively. Total protein associated with the cell layer increased 14% to 32% without concomitant change in cellular DNA. Total soluble collagenous material recovered from culture media increased 61% to 103% with ascorbate supplementation. This study demonstrated that ascorbate improves the clinical status of patients with impaired collagen lysyl hydroxylase activity by enhancing lysyl and prolyl hydroxylation and total collagen production.
Vitamin C & E SynergiesPhoto-damage of skin results in premature skin aging that is largely due to reactive
oxygen species (ROS). In vivo antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E were shown to provide an additional quenching effect of ROS. Furthermore, vitamin C helps increase skin firmness. It promotes synthesis of collagen I and III in human fibroblasts. Vitamin E is essential to maintain normal body metabolism and good health. It also protects skin from environmental damage. Vitamin E is absorbed through the epidermis. It is also absorbed through the pilosebaceous canal Grape seeds hold an array of
potent skin care actives.
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and the interior of the hair follicles. Vitamin E provides moisture and imparts smoothness and softening. In a clinical trial, researchers studied whether oral supplementation with vitamin E, vitamin C or vitamin E combined with vitamin C influenced the solar simulated radiation (SSR)-induced skin inflammation in healthy volunteers.3
The researchers investigated groups in a randomized, placebo-controlled study:• Group 1: vitamin E 2g/day;• Group 2: vitamin C 3g/day• Group 3: vitamin E 2g/day combined with vitamin C 3g/day, and• Group 4: placebo.
Researchers analyzed vitamin E and vitamin C concentrations in keratinocytes prior to the study and 50 days after supplementation. The dose response curve of UV erythema was determined by reflectance spectrophotometry and the minimal erythema dose (MED) by visual grading before and after supplementation. Fifty days after supplementation, vitamin E and keratinocyte levels were increased in groups 1 and 3, and vitamin C concentrations were elevated in groups 2 and 3. The dose response curve of UVR induced erythema showed a significant flattening and the MED increased from 103+/-29 mJ/cm2 (before supplementation) to 183+/-35 mJ/cm2 (after supplementation) in group 3. There were no significant changes in groups 1 and 2 after vitamin supplementation. This study demonstrated that vitamin E and vitamin C act synergistically to reduce the sunburn reaction.
Vitamin A and E SynergiesVitamin A as a skin nutrient is used to improve the appearance of skin and reduce wrinkles in anti-aging products. Studies have shown that topical vitamin A can be beneficial for the skin. In this study, researchers investigated two different antioxidant supplements composed of carotenoids, vitamin E and selenium on parameters related to skin health and skin aging.4
Thirty-nine volunteers with healthy, normal skin of skin type-2 were divided into three groups (n=13) and supplemented for a period of 12 weeks. Group 1 received a mixture of lycopene (3mg/day), lutein (3mg/day), beta-carotene (4.8 mg/day), alpha-tocopherol (10mg/day) and selenium (75microg/day). Group 2 was supplemented with a mixture of lycopene (6mg/day), beta-carotene (4.8mg/day), alpha-tocopherol (10mg/day) and selenium (75microg/day). Group 3 was the placebo control. Upon supplementation, serum levels of selected carotenoids increased in both groups. Skin density and thickness were determined by ultrasound measurements. A Surface Evaluation of Living Skin (Visioscan) determined skin roughness, scaling, smoothness and wrinkling. Study results demonstrated that roughness and scaling were improved by the supplementation with antioxidant micronutrients. In the placebo group, no changes were found for any of the parameters.
Grapeseed ExtractThis material consists of polyphenols, including flavanoids, tannins and stibenes such as resevertrol. It has the most potent antioxidant, procyandins (also known as proanthocyanidins), leucocyanidins and condensed tannins. Grape seeds, waste products of the winery and grape juice industries, contain lipid, protein, carbohydrates and 5-8% polyphenols depending on the variety. Polyphenols in grape seeds are mainly flavanoids, including gallic acid, the monometric flavan-3-ols catachin, epicatechin,
Adding anti-aging actives will ensure that your skin care formula isn’t plain vanilla.
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gallocatechin, epigallocatechin, and epicatechin 3- O-gallate, and procyanidin dimmers, trimers and more highly-polymerized procyanidins.
Grapeseed extract is a powerful antioxidant that protects the body from premature aging, disease and decay. Grape seeds contain mainly phenols such as proanthocyanidins (oligomeric proanthocyanidins). Researchers have shown that the antioxidant power of proanthocyanidins is 20 times greater than vitamin E and 50 times greater than vitamin C.5
Extensive research in this field suggests that grapeseed extract is beneficial in many areas of health because of its antioxidant effect to bind with collagen and promote youthful skin, cell health, elasticity and flexibility. Other studies have shown that proanthocyanidins help protect the body from sun damage and improve vision, flexibility, arteries and body tissues. Proanthocyanidins improve blood circulation by strengthening capillaries, arteries and veins. The most abundant phenolic compounds isolated from grape seed are catechins, epicatechin and procyanidin.
ProanthocyanidinsOne of the most visible changes associated with the aging process in humans relates to a progressive thinning of the skin. Thinning results from a decline in glycosaminoglycans, as well as from changes in their chemical structure and three-dimensional organization. Researchers transdermally administered a mixture of antioxidants, alpha-lipoic acid (LA) (0.5%) and proanthocyanidin PA(0.3%) in a standard cosmetic vehicle base formulation supplemented with 2% benzyl alcohol as a penetration enhancer, a mixture of essential amino acids (0.2%).6 Researchers found that this significantly enhanced collagen synthesis and deposition.
The amino acid mixture was designed to mimic serum concentrations, with supplemental methionine added to provide additional sulfur. The histological appearance of the skin of mature female rats treated in this fashion reflected the increased deposition of collagen in the dermis as well as thickened epidermal layer. The changes do not seem to be mediated by TGF- or PDGF, two growth factors known to stimulate collagen synthesis. Additionally researchers found that at lower concentrations, alipoic acid did not affect cell proliferation but at higher doses, it had an inhibitory effect on (3) H-thimidine uptake. It did enhance collagen production. This study demonstrated that proanthocyanidin did not affect cell proliferation but significantly increased collagen synthesis by cultured fibroblasts.
References:1. Thirunavukkarasu V, N. AT, A. Cv, Department of Biochemistry, faculty of science,
Annamalai University, India, Exp. Diabesity res. 2004, Oct-Dec,5(4): 237-44.2. Dembure PP, JAR, Priest JH, Elias LJ, Metabolism 1987 Jul; 36(7): 687-91.3. Fuchs J, Kern H, Free Raic. Biol. Med 1998. dec:25(9): 1006-12. Department of
Dermatology, medical school, J. W. Goethe University, Frankfurt, Germany.4. Heinrich U., tronler H, stahl W, Bejot M, Maurette JM,. Institute of Experimental
Dermatology, University of Witten/Herdecke, Witten, Germany.5. Shi J, Yu J, pohorly JE, kakuda Y. J. med. Food, 2003, Winter; 6(4); 291-9. Food research
center, agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Guelph, Canada.6. Han B, Nimni ME, Connect. Tissue Res. 2005; 46 (4-5): 251-7, Department of Surgery,
Keck School of Medicine and Biochemical Engineering, University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA.
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ACAI’S ANTI-AGING CLAIMS GO UNDER THE MICROSCOPE
A CAI (pronounced: ah-sigh-ee) has made the move from the food aisle to the personal care shelf. This tiny, antioxidant-rich, deep purple colored, grape-like berry grows in the Amazon rainforest. Studies suggest that the use of antioxidants
may help in the fight against aging and agerelated diseases. No wonder why natural and cosmeceutical ingredients top the list for cosmetic formulators. At the same time, consumers are concerned about the safety and purity of the products they consume and apply, as well as their effect on the environment. Datamonitor reported global demand for natural personal care products was $17 billion in 2008. The U.S. leads the way at $7.7 billion, followed by Europe, $7.4 billion. To understand the antioxidant claims, it is helpful to understand free radicals, how they are formed, what damage they cause and how they can be neutralized.
Free Radical DamageRadicals are atomic or molecular species with unpaired electrons. They are usually highly reactive and attack all types of molecules they find on their way. They are the rogue-damaging substances that are continuously being generated when the oxygen we breathe gets split into individual oxygen atoms because of ongoing bodily biochemical processes. Oxygen atoms or free radicals, when they accumulate, cause damage to cell phospholipids membranes, DNA and enzymes. The best defense is a free radical scavenger or antioxidant molecule that captures and inactivates free radicals. Health benefits occur when the amount of oxidative stress (free radicals) in the body is terminated by antioxidants, resulting in product efficacy.
Study ProtocolRichard Pinell, a professor emeritus of dermatology at Duke University, School of Medicine, Durham, NC, noted it is important to find out if acai gets into the skin. He pointed out that human skin has natural defenses against foreign substances, including antioxidants. He suggested that raw material suppliers should provide skin penetration properties of their active, which can then be confirmed by conducting skin biopsy to determine how many layers of the skin the active penetrated. Dr. Pinell added that a truly rigorous study would involve exposing skin to ultraviolet light and testing to see if the topical product slows any skin biochemical processes that would lead to eventual skin aging. Only a few studies are available on acai-based anti-aging products.
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Researchers and EfficacyIn a 2008 clinical study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, Susanne Talcott, an assistant professor of toxicology, nutrition and food science at Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, reported that antioxidant levels increased in the blood of 12 volunteers 12 hours after they consumed acai juice. That’s all well and good, but investigators wanted to learn more about acai’s anti-aging benefits. Dr. Talcott’s investigation revealed that there was no decrease in reactive oxygen species in the blood cells of the panelists who drank acai juice, leading them to conclude that there was no measurable anti-aging benefit in consuming acai juice. They speculated, however, that a long-term study might find statistically significant benefits. But it would not prove acai does anything in a topical preparation.
Mark Stibich has reviewed many websites selling acai berry-related products. He found many wild claims and wrote about them in an article for About.com in May 2009 entitled “Acai Berry’s Antiaging Properties— Fact or Marketing Fiction?” However, Dr. Stibich noted that acai berry has 10 times the antioxidant levels found in grapes.
Some BrandsA facial mask made with acai and goji berry is being marketed by Pangea Organics. No clinical trials have been done on the product. Sugar-Acai Age-Delay Body Cream is being marketed by Fresh Inc., which conducted a clinical study involving 47 subjects who used it twice a day for a month. The study, which has not been published, found that the cream firmed, softened and revitalized the skin. However, there was no control group. The product reduced the amount of free radicals on the skin surface, but no biopsy was taken to ensure that the acai antioxidant penetrated the skin, according to an article in The Wall Street Journal (April 28, 2009).
Claims substantiation has become an important element in the success or failure of cosmetic products. Many companies rush to market relying on folklore to justify their key active. But sophisticated techniques as described in this column, including equipment, calibrated meters and statistical processes, are available to support all kinds of advertising claims. Yet, many consumers and dematologists are disappointed with their cosmeceutical products performance. In Australia’s Sunday Mail (May 23, 2009), Dr. Stephan Shumack, honorary secretary of the College of Dermatologists, said that the explosion of cosmeceuticals during the past 20 years has been fueled by marketing only; there is no hard scientific evidence to back up any of the claims. Women may spend $100 a month on skin care they believe will “lift,” “reverse” or “re-age.”
He suggested that if a product actually works, it has a therapeutic effect and therefore must be registered with the TGA (our FDA equivalent). No cosmeceutical lives up to that benchmark.
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SKIN ANALYZERS SHINE LIGHT ON AGING AND UV DAMAGE
CONSUMERS WHO visit high-end department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman can’t miss the impressive looking skin analyzers that are prominently displayed on beauty counters. These contraptions can also be found
in medical spas and doctors’ offices. While some dermatologists say that these devices can help reduce future skin damage, others insist that they strike fear in the heart of consumers, who often feel pressured into buying highpriced antiaging products after they see the condition of their skin. This column will briefly review some skin analyzers, how they work and the benefits they provide.
Facial Skin Analysis is very simple. These analyzers should be considered non-surgical aesthetic devices that help consumers effectively maintain their youth and vitality with minimal downtime. They are fast (provide results in less than an hour) and inexpensive because they are usually a value-added service.
One side of the face rests inside the box to capture passport-size images of every pore, every wrinkle and every spot. These analyzers provide quantifiable data to tell us if facial peels, laser treatments, and microdermabrasions are doing their job in restoring healthy skin. Medical skin care specialists may use detailed photo analyses to compare a patient’s skin condition to those of similar age and gender.
Facial skin analysis can be used to show consumers what causes premature aging and convinces them to take the proper steps to avoid it. The procedure enables consumers to see how sun damage can impact their appearance 10-15 years in the future.
Key Skin AnalyzersFast Optical In-Vivo Topometry of human Skin (FOITS) is a new approach to measure the skin surface without touching it. Threedimensional information may be obtained from the skin surface in less than a second. The technique replaces or complements skin replicas (profilomeatry) to study wrinkles.
Cosmetrics enables technicians to accurately quantify the effect of a product by extracting data from live skin. It works in conjunction with Spectrophotometric Intra-cutaneous Analysis (SIAscopy) to validate the effects of products applied to the skin that ultimately affect hemoglobin, melanin and collagen. SIAscopy discriminates the way light interacts with the skin, the manner in which it scatters or bounces, the amount absorbed by the cells and other structures, as well as wavelength or color changes. It is thus able to determine the nature and position of many of the different components of the skin,
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including key chromospheres within the skin. It also is able to determine whether melanin is in the top layer of the skin or if it has migrated into the papillary dermis.1
Visia enables both quantitative and subjective analysis of skin features and the technology provides access to the makeup of a customer’s skin.2 It maps the face and provides eight skin condition measurements, including pigmentation, spots, pores, wrinkles, texture and UV damage. Visia reveals in detail how much sun damage has occurred and the full extent of problems such as wrinkles and acne. Besides providing an accurate image of skin, this equipment can “age” the face to show how it may look in the future—and how procedures such as rhinoplasty, eyelid surgery and facelifts may appear down the road. Visia can also show consumers how they compare to their peers, by comparing their profile with others from an international skinimaging database with more than one million records. The equipment stores images for future reference, providing a useful before and after record for the consumer to see the benefits of cosmetic treatments.
Complexion analysis, introduced by Procter & Gamble in 2003 to objectively measure skin improvements from its Olay skin care line, can reveal the severity of various conditions such as fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, large pores, skin tone unevenness, porphyrins (bacterial growth) and sun damage.
By generating images of how skin may age, consumers can get a better understanding of how to care for their skin and what measures they must take to prevent them from getting worse. Before and after skin analysis photographs are great motivational tools for consumers who want to delay premature aging.
References:1. Astron Clinica Co.2. Canfield Imaging Systems, NJ.
UV damage is readily apparent using Visia analysis.
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UNDERSTANDING FORMULATION AND EFFICACY OF ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZERS
According to IRI data, mass market sales of skin care products rose 2.1%, but sales of facial antiaging products dropped 3.54% to $1.04 billion. After posting 8% growth between 2011-2016, facial skin care sales slowed to just 1% growth
in 2016, reaching $6.7 billion last year, according to Mintel Beauty Analyst Margie Nanninga, who described anti-aging as “lackluster” a year ago. Millennials are more likely to use lip balm, facial wipes and acne treatments before they reach for a jar of anything that promises to harness youth. As a result, the anti-aging sector has continued its steady five-year decline, and according to Mintel, sales have fallen roughly $2.2 billion in 2010 to $1.9 billion in 2015. Need another reason for the sales decline? Millennials do not need the anti-aging industry because they simply don’t trust it. They need proof that something works, and is worth their hard earned money. They also rely on reviews suggested by Google or YouTube videos.
Finally, at this stage of their lives, Millennials don’t have much disposable income, leaving little room for expensive anti-aging creams, serums or treatments. Basically they value skin texture, radiance and visible results and hence their preference is for reasonably-priced and easy-to-use makeup and foundation—products that don’t require waiting for weeks to see any benefits. Anti-aging moisturizers, although at times regarded as cosmetics, have well-established benefits in many skin disorders. They are most used as therapeutic agents by dermatologists and consumers alike. They come in variety of forms and textures. This column will briefly review their overall formulation and efficacy.
FormulationAnti-aging creams are predominantly moisturizer- based skin care products marketed with the promise of making the consumer look younger by preventing signs of skin aging. Moisturizers are bland oleaginous substances that are applied to the skin by
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rubbing. They are used to replace natural skin oils and to provide a soothing protective film. They slow evaporation of the skin’s moisture thereby, maintaining hydration, and improving the appearance and tactile properties of dry and aging skin. Basically there are four different types of moisturizers.*1
Moisture absorbers draw water to the skin cells to keep skin hydrated. Key ingredients are glycerin, lactic acid, urea, hyaluronic acid and alpha hydroxy acids. These creams do not contain heavier oils.*2
Space fillers are emollients that fill gaps between skin cells that are missing moisturizing lipids. Key ingredients are lanolin, mineral oil and petrolatum.*3
When skin is damaged or has depleted ceramide levels, it becomes dry and damaged. The key ingredient is ceramides.*4
Moisture sealers are designed to drench the skin in moisture. Key ingredients are rose hip, avocado and hazelnut oils. These sealers work best for more mature dehydrated skin. Water that originates in the deeper epidermal layers moves upward to moisturize cells in the stratum corneum. Basically skin moisturization involves repairing the skin barrier, increasing water content and reducing TEWL to restore the lipid barrier’s ability to attract and hold the water. Creams are formulated with raw materials such as dimethicone, petrolatum, mineral oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, silicones, shea butter, niacinamide, olive oil, rose hip seed oil, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to reduce transepidermal water loss thereby increasing the skin water content.
When the skin is fully hydrated, it is harder to distend, which is interpreted as increased skin firmness. In Dermatology Times, Dermatologist Zoe Draelos noted anything that increases skin water content, by definition, increases skin firmness. The more occlusive the moisturizer, better the improvement in skin firmness. Hence, occlusive moisturization prevents the dehydration of the stratum corneum.
The Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) is a natural mixture of amino acids, lactates, urea and electrolytes which help the stratum corneum retain water. Normally skin is considered “dry” when its moisture content drops to 10%, and there is loss of continuity of the stratum corneum. Typical humectants include glycerin, sorbitol, urea, honey, collagen, sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids and sugars. But high concentrations of propylene glycol and urea can be irritating. Pure mixtures of amino acids are poor moisturizers. Urea and lactic acid are keratolytic. Urea is humectant in lower concentration (10%), but in higher concentrations (20- 30%), it is mildly keratolytic. Lactic acid or glycolic acid, appear to increase cohesion of the stratum corneum cells, thereby reducing skin roughness and scaling. Other signs are sagging, wrinkles and photo-aging, such as redness, brown discolorations, yellowing, abnormal growths and poor texture.*1
ActivesActives can be divided into seven categories: sunscreens, antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, pigment lighteners, collagen repairers, exfoliators and hydration/barrier repairers. Pigment modifying agents are hydroquinone, kojic acid, vitamin C and E, azelaic acid, ellagic acid (polyphenol), pycnogenol, fatty acids (linolic acid), niacinamide and soy. Anti-inflammatory botanicals are licorice extract, azelaic acid, aloe vera, chamomile, feverfew, oatmeal, pycnogenol, lycopene, silymarin, quercetin and allantoin. Antioxidants are EGCG, vitamin E, vitamin C, coffeeberry, idebenone, soy, and vine shoot.
Ongoing ResearchDespite a decline in category sales, the quest for a younger looking skin has led to a boost in the anti-aging technology. Antiaging creams may include conventional moisturizing ingredients, and usually contain some specific anti-aging ingredients such as alpha
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hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids or other chemical peels. They help to dissolve the intercellular glue that holds dead cells together on the skin. Products made with these actives, when used daily, gradually enhance exfoliation of the epidermis. This exposes newer skin cells to improve skin appearance. AHAs may irritate some skin, causing redness and flaking. Peptides, such as Matrixyl, copper peptide Coenzyme Q-10, Argireline or Acetyl hexapeptide-3, relax facial muscles to prevent wrinkles and fine lines from forming.
Sunscreens provide a high level of UVA protection.*9 Antioxidants protect cells from damage caused by unstable molecules known as free radicals.*10 Dyschromia corrective actives include hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, retinoids, L-ascorbic acid, lactic acid, licorice root extract, azelaic acid, phenyl ethyl resorcinol and undecylenoyl phenylalanine. These products must contain a combination of ingredients that protect against UVA and UVB radiation. For UVA protection, use zinc oxide, avobenzone, ecamsule, titanium dioxide. For UVB protection, use cinnamates (octinoxate), salicylates, (octisalate), and titanium dioxide. Different grades of antioxidants could be used for example, you could use primary antioxidants (electron donors), such as L-ascorbic acid, resveratrol, tea polyphenols, vitamin E, glutathione, or secondary antioxidants, such as: chelate metal ions, eg L-ascorbic acid, silybin, resveratrol, ergothionine, or you could use co-antioxidants (to facilitate other antioxoidants) such as: L-Ascorbic acid, vitamin E, glutathione, and ergothionine. Overall you could use antioxidants such as synergy of vitamin C and vitamin E, plant stem cells, caffeine, coffee berry, green tea, idebenone, ferulic acid.
Improving EfficacyThe primary causes of wrinkles are sun damage, genetics, chronological aging, hormone loss, fat and bone depletion, muscle sagging and disruption of skin’s protective skin barrier. Skin hydration smoothes the skin surface. It makes the skin surface soft, more extensible and pliable. An ideal moisturizer should have the following attributes: reduce and prevent TEWL, restore lipid barrier, provide immediate skin hydration, be cosmetically acceptable and reasonably priced. In today’s climate, formulas are often hypoallergenic, non-sensitizing, fragrance-free, non-comedogenic. Skin irritation is the most common adverse effect of moisturizers. These sensory reactions are identified as smarting, tingling and stinging. Based on the skin response, it is classified into four mechanisms: sensory/subjective irritation, allergic contact dermatitis, nonimmunologic contact urticaria and irritant contact dermatitis.
Unfortunately, most anti-aging products and treatments do not impart long-lasting effects. One clinical study found that the best performing creams reduced wrinkles by less than 10% over 12 weeks which is hardly noticeable to the human eye.*2 Another study found that cheap moisturizers were as effective as high priced anti-wrinkle creams.*3 A 2009 study at Manchester University showed that some ingredients did have positive effects.*4 Retinoids, in the form of retinyl palmitate in various formulations, has been shown to reduce fine lines and pores.*5 Lascorbic acid is one of the most effective and commonly included ingredients in wrinkle creams.*6 It is also thought to help the healing process. Epidermal growth factor has been shown to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and sagging.*7 It also helps healing of wounds, burns and has antiinflammatory properties when applied to the skin.*8
A youthful appearance greatly impacts confidence, happiness and professional success. Skin is one of the clearest indications of age. Products using the latest anti-aging ingredients are changing the face of skin care as we know it.
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References:1. Alexiades MR et al. J.Am. Acad. Derm. 2008.2. Wrinkle creams. Consumer Reports 2011-07-28 Retrieved 2012-02-143. Anti-wrinkle eye creams. Archive- Home & Garden 2012-02-144. Antiaging cosmetic reduced wrinkles in clinical trials. Eurekalert. Org.2009-04-285. Archdern,ama-assn.org 2007-05-016. Indian Dermatology Online Journal Retrieved 2015-07-017. Journal of Controlled Release, April 2007, Pages 169-176.8. Skin Pharmacol and Applied Skin Physiology Jan-April ’99, pages 79-84.9. Sunscreens Explained skin Cancer.org. Retrieved 2012-02-14, Draelos MD, “article”.
Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery March 2015.10. The Nutrition Source, Chan School of Public health 2016-02-13.
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