Africa & Middle East Textiles issue 1 2012

ISSUE ONE/2012PREMIERE EDITION/2012

Pleins feux sur l ‘Egypte

Machines de contrôle

Révue de Heimtextil 2012

Spotlight on Egypt

Fabric testing

Heimtextil 2012 review

James Heal Martindale 900

Dyebathmonitoring Les teintures

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DEVELOPMENTS 4News of textile projects, markets, and contracts

SPOTLIGHT ON EGYPT 7New era dawns in Egypt

DYES AND CHEMICALS 10Dyebath monitoring aids right-first-time dyeing

DIGITAL PRINTING 13Digital printing comes of age

APPAREL AFRICA/ SEWING MACHINES 17Fabric testing – a constantly evolving science

HEIMTEXTIL 2012 21Review of the mega home and contract textiles expo

DEVELOPPEMENTS 4Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats et compagnies

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’EGYPTE 7Une nouvelle époque en Egypte

COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES 10La surveillance du bain de teinture aide à obtenir u ne teinture réussie dès la première fois

L’IMPRESSION NUMERIQUE 13L’impression numérique amorce une ère nouvelle

REVUE D’HABILLEMENT/MACHINES A COUDRE 17Machines de contrôle – une science en développement incessant

HEIMTEXTIL 2012 21Revue de l’expo énorme pour les textiles de maison et de contrat

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Couverture: Colorants et produits chimiquesInset: James Heal Martindale 900

Cover: Dyes and chemicalsInset: James Heal Martindale 900

CONTENTS

Managing Editor: Prabhu Dev, [email protected]

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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE/2012 3


TEXTILE NEWS

Cotton International 2012Global Summit in AprilTHE COTTON INTERNATIONAL 2012 Global Summitwill be held in Bangkok, Thailand from 25 - 27 April, 2012.The Summit, in cooperation with International TextileManufacturers Federation (ITMF) and other industryassociations around the globe, brings together theleading mills and merchants from key markets alongwith industry partners' to connect, engage and transactbusiness. Better risk management strategies, moreefficient logistics, trade relations, and strategic businessopportunities are among the primary topics that will bediscussed by the cotton industry's most prominentexperts and panels of speakers. The CottonInternational Global Summit will provide a platform fornetworking opportunities designed to foster newbusiness relationships.

Ethiopia invites textileinvestments from IndiaETHIOPIAN AMBASSADOR TO India, GennetZewide, during her recent visit to the sub-continentsought investments in the areas of textiles, leather, andchemicals to catch up with fastest growing countries suchas India and China.Addressing government officials, business leaders andchamber representatives to mark the opening of theHonorary Consulate in Chennai, India she said the newoffice would enable them to attract more Indian businessesand investments in priority sectors such as textile, leather,pharma, chemicals, manufacturing and automobile. While announcing Manikam Ramaswami, chairman andmanaging director of Loyal Textiles Mills, as Ethiopia'sHonorary Consul in Chennai, she said that he had not onlyinvested in cotton agriculture and ginning, but also had spenthis time and resources, experiences and expertise to makeEthiopia's textile industry a thriving one.

Huntsman acquires Turkishpolyurethanes systems houseHUNTSMAN CORPORATION ANNOUNCEDrecently that it has acquired EMA Kimya SistemleriSanayi ve Ticaret A.S., a polyurethanes systems house inIstanbul, Turkey. The EMA systems house has thecapacity to manufacture polyester polyols and blendMDI polyurethane systems used primarily in theinsulation, automotive, adhesives, coatings, elastomersand furniture industries. Commenting on the sale, Anthony P. Hankins, Presidentof the Polyurethanes division, said, “This acquisition ispart of our global strategy to strengthen our presence inkey growth markets. In 2010, Turkey’s MDIpolyurethane systems grew at a rate of 13-15 per cent. Welook forward to leveraging this demand and providing abroader product offering to customers in this region.”

Crisis looms large for Zimbabwetextile giantZIMBABWE’S LEADING TEXTILE companyModzone Enterprises requires US$16 million forrecapitalisation to achieve viable productivity levels tomeet both the local and export markets, according to arecent report in The Herald.The company, which operates two units in Chitungwizaand one in Norton, has suffered over the years fromoperating ageing and obsolete machinery.Industrial Development Corporation of ZimbabweLimited spokesperson Derek Sibanda said the mainchallenge facing Modzone Enterprises was shortage ofcash resources to finance rehabilitation to restoreoperational capacity to cater for the supply gap in local andexports markets. “The traditional source of financing wasthe local financial institutions but they are currently unableto provide meaningful funding as they are undercapitalisedand offering short tenors of between 90 to 180 days forworking capital and long-term loans for capex,” he said.

March 20121 - 3 MEGATECH Pakistan 2012 LAHORE, PAKISTAN

Visit www.megatechpakistan.com

6 - 8 SpinExpo 2012 SHANGHAI, CHINA

Visit www.spinexpo.com/shanghai

10 - 12 Textile Asia 2012 KARACHI, PAKISTAN

Visit www.textileasia.com.pk

11 - 13 MIDO 2012 MILANO, ITALY

Visit www.mido.it

20 - 23 Tissue World Americas 2012 FLORIDA, USA

Visit www.tissueworld.com

21 - 23 AATCC International Conference CHARLOTTE, USA

Visit http://www.aatcc.org/ic/2012/Call_for_Papers_2012_AATCC_IC

29 - 30 IFAI Canada Expo 2012 MISSISSAUGA, CANADA

Visit www.ifai.com/events

April 201221 - 24 ITM 2012 ISTANBUL, TURKEY

Visit www.itm2012.com

21 - 24 Hightex 2012 ISTANBUL, TURKEY

Visit www.hightex2012.com

24 - 26 Texprocess Americas 2012 ATLANTA, USA

Visit www.texprocessamericas.com

25 - 27 Cotton International 2012 Global Summit BANGKOK, THAILAND

http://cottonglobalsummit.com

May 20121 - 4 GeoAmericas 2012 LIMA, PERU

Visit www.geoamericas2012.com

17 - 18 EGE MEDITEX 2012 IZMIR, TURKEY

www.egemeditex.ege.edu.tr

June 20121 - 4 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 SHANGHAI, CHINA

Visit www.itmaasia.com

13 - 15 ANEX 2012 - Asia Nonwovens Exhibition and Conference SEOUL, KOREA

www.anex2012.com

13 -14 Citext Europe 2012 TROYES, FRANCE

www.citext.fr

21 - 24 GFT 2012 BANGKOK, THAILAND

www.garmenttextile.com

July 201224 -26 International Apparel Sourcing Show NEW YORK, USA

www.apparelsourcingshow.com

October 20123 - 6 IGATEX Pakistan 2012 LAHORE, PAKISTAN

www.igatex.pk

22 - 24 Cinte Techtextil China SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.messefrankfurt.com.hk

November 20124 - 6 ITMF Annual Conference 2012 HANOI, VIETNAM

wwww.itmf.org

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy

(Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question

4 AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE ONE/2012


TEXTILE NEWS

ETHIOPIA EARNED ABOUTUS$44mn from textile exports in thelast two quarters, according to thecountry’s Textile IndustryDevelopment Institute.A significant percentage of themoney earned was generated bygarments, weaving products andyarn. The revenue was 87 per centmore than the target set for thisperiod. The revenue is alsoUS$18.6mn more than the amountearned in the corresponding periodlast fiscal year.Leading exporters over the past sixmonths included Aika Addis Textileand Investment Group, AlmedaTextile, Kombolcha Textile ShareCompany, Elsie Addis TextileFactory, NovaStar Garment plc, andMa Textile and Garment Factory. Ethiopian textile and textile productswere primarily exported to Belgium,China, Djibouti, Germany, Italy,Sudan, Turkey, United Arab Emirates,United Kingdom and the US.

CHINA IS EYEING the Africancountries of Benin, Mali, Chad andBurkina Faso to help the world'ssecond-largest economy develop itscotton-planting operations.China will supply the seeds,machinery, fertilizer and othermaterials needed to help promotecotton planting in the four Africannations, according to a statementposted by China's Ministry ofCommerce on its website.The campaign, according to analystsand experts, will not only strengthenties among the five countries, butalso allow cotton trade to take placeunder fairer conditions inaccordance with standards set by the World TradeOrganization, the official Xinhua news agency reported.Training will be provided for technical and managementpersonnel in both China and Africa, to encouragecooperation, innovation and improvement of productioncapabilities in the textile industry, the MOC said.West Africa may become another source of cotton forChina, which imports and consumes more of the fiberthan any other country in the world."China's market is always open to African countries," said

Commerce Minister Chen Deming.“We have been providing Africancountries with aid and technicaltraining for many years,” said DuMin, director of the ChineseMinistry of Agriculture's researchcenter for rural economy. “Furthercooperation will help to improvetheir production capacity.”“China's decision is promoting faircotton trade in the world. Africaneconomies will benefit from thecooperation.”During the first 11 months of 2011,China's cotton imports grew 8.4 percent to 2.57 million tons compared ayear ago, data from the General

Administration of Customs showed.The cotton trade does much to reduce poverty in a numberof African countries. To boost their economic growth,many of these countries have adopted reforms meant toimprove the quality of the cotton and make them moreeffective competitors in the international market. Thoseefforts, though, have been frustrated by the hefty cottonsubsidies that have been adopted in the United States andother countries, which are believed to have distortedworld cotton prices, according to trade analysts.

China eyes Africa as alternative site for cotton production

During the first 11 months of2011, China's cotton imports

grew 8.4 per cent to 2.57 milliontons compared a year ago

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Ethiopia earns US$44mnfrom textile exports



CAIRO’S NEWLY elected Parliament met forthe first time in more than half a century in

January, under the aegis of Military Council. Anew constitution will soon be ratified and newPresident installed.

It all means that Egypt’s hugely importanttextile and clothing industries, which generatedcombined exports of US$2.25bn in 2009(excluding premium-grade raw cotton exports),will remain in limbo until the Arab Republic’sfuture economic direction becomes clear.

All sorts of decisions have to be taken, such aswhether to continue with nuclear generationplans and how much gas to allocate to profitableexports. Shortages of power in Lower Egypt havebeen a constraint on business expansion in recentyears, especially affecting the very time-sensitiveapparel export trade.

The key question is: will the privatisation ofthe spinning and weaving industries be speededup? The slow progress of this programme is oneof the main reasons why the thriving readymadegarment industries have been sucking in so many

imports in recent years. This has beenencouraged by Egypt’s plethora of free tradeagreements, including those with key supplierssuch as Turkey.

This country passed through a period of majorchange in 2011, but the effect on the textile andclothing industries and their export businessremains to be seen. Indeed the Arab world’s mostheavily populated state is still settling down. Thelevel of disruption was serious enough, but nowthe industries’ key export markets in Europe’sEuro Area are in disarray too. It appears that onlyexports to the USA, supported by the QualifyingIndustrial Zone pact, are holding up well. In2008, Egypt sold finished textile goods worthnearly US$0.7bn there. The US is Egypt’s largestsingle trading partner by far.

Yet the basic macro economic fundamentalsremain good. The E£ has stood up well to thedollar at a time when the Euro has been veryvisibly crumbling. Economic growth in 2010 wasin excess of five per cent, although less than halfthis looks more realistic for 2011.

Unemployment is not high by African standards,and the clothing industry is a particularlyimportant source of skilled jobs for women.Inflation is running at around 10 per cent, not badin the circumstances as numerous essentialcommodities ran scarce while there was troubleon the streets. And the state is paying just onequarter for the funds it has to borrowinternationally compared with Greece just acrossthe eastern Mediterranean. All in all, not a badrecord given the traumas this huge country hasbeen through since January last year.

Both the Cairo and Alexandria stock marketstook a serious dip in 2011, however; for years theclothing industry has been a major beneficiary offoreign direct investment, and this is bound to beimpacted until the future direction of the newIslamist-dominated government is determined. Thereturn of Nasser-style socialism is still a possibility.

Foreign buyers are always wary ofcircumstances like these; they do business withEgypt primarily because of the quick turnaroundthey know the Delta’s fleet-of-foot, well-

SPOTLIGHT ON EGYPT

Foreign direct investment and the pace of privatisation remain the criticalissues for the Arab world’s largest garment market after a tumultuous year.

New era dawns in Egypt

Egypt’s hugely important textile and clothing industrieswill remain in limbo until the Arab Republic’s futureeconomic direction becomes clear


S02 AFTEX Issue 1 2012 Country Feature_calendar.qxd 16/02/2012 14:40 Page 6

capitalised and -integrated garment producers can deliver. Low-cost labourand high manufacturing standards also come into the equation. Already thetourism industry is suffering; the garment trades are likely to follow.

It all encourages entrepreneurs to look again at the domestic market,which had been growing nicely before the Arab Spring came along, with aflush of new local clothing brands appearing that expressed pride in whatEgypt can produce. International brand owners cashed in on this mood.

It was the middle classes – teachers, engineers, medium-grade civilservants – who supported this segment, and it is these folk who are reportedlyfeeling the economic pinch most now. Nearly one-third of Egypt’s populationis considered middle class according to the African Development Bank.

“Stuck in the middle” wrote Alison Tahmizian Meuse in the Octoberedition of AmCham Egypt’s influential Business Monthly. Others warn ofweak trends in the receipt of remittances from abroad.

However, none of this detracts from the reasons why Egypt has done sowell in developing its textile and garment exports, so unexpectedly since theend of the Multi Fibre Arrangement and all within the past 10 years. Thiscountry remains a fundamentally sound and well-balanced economy, andcrucially one which is right at the heart of the Middle East peace process.

SPOTLIGHT ON EGYPT

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Both the Cairo and Alexandria stockmarkets took a serious dip in 2011, however;

for years the clothing industry has been amajor beneficiary of foreign direct

investment, and this is bound to be impacteduntil the future direction of the new Islamist-

dominated government is determined.

ALAA ARAFA, HEAD of Egypt's Textiles Export Council, has been holdingnegotiations with several US department store chains with a view to boostingsales of Egyptian textiles products, according to a report in EgyptIndependent news daily.Arafa pointed to the council's target of exporting some LE16 billion worth ofEgyptian textiles products to US markets by 2013.“Ready-made garment exports in 2009 stood at LE7.4 billion,” Arafa said at ameeting with officials from Nygard Stores, which has branches both in theUS and Canada and boasts an overall sales volume of US$2 billion a year.Arafa went on to predict that exports would reach LE10 billion in 2012. “Thiswould create 200,000 jobs in Egypt,” he said, calling on the government tosupport the industry by improving local transport and logistical facilities.Egypt currently ranks 17th in terms of overall textiles exports to the US,according to Egypt's commercial attaché in Washington.

Egyptian companies to increase exportsto US markets

Rise in exports may create 200,000 jobs in Egypt


TEXTILE NEWS

BROTHER OFFERED A sneak peek at their upcoming digital garmentprinter at the recently-held Viscom Milano 2011 Expo.The machine garnered considerable attention as interested attendees inquiredabout its specifications and wereable to see live demonstrations thatshowcased the printer’s highquality printing capabilities.“The new model will be pricedvery competitively and themachine will be faster thancompetitor machines in the sameprice range. This new model willbe offered with White Ink-readysubclasses. The machines have been designed with a modular concept. Theentry level ‘CMYK’ model will have a built-in upgrade path to highperformance with White Ink. The ‘Grow as Your Business Grows’ themecertainly rings true with Brother’s latest offering,” a company official said.The new model will replace the Brother GT-541, which will be discontinued.However, the GT-541 will still be available as a factory-refurbished product inthe U.S. market. The Brother GT-782 is expected to remain in the market asBrother will offer special options to compliment that machine’s highproductivity capability, including the larger 16”x18” dual platens, bulk whiteink option, and proven reliability.

Brother offers sneak peek at its new digital garment printer

The new model will replacethe Brother GT-541

IN SPITE OF an increase in production for 2011by Italian textile machinery manufacturers,forecasts remain cautious for the current year.Provisional figures for 2011 for Italy's textilemachinery sector show a further increase inmanufacturing production and exports, followinga good recovery in 2010 and a recession hit 2009.The value of Italian textile machinery productionfor 2011 registered a 9 per cent increasecompared to 2010, from 2.4 to 2.6 billion Euros.A similar increase was recorded for exports (+10per cent), which reached a value of just over 2.1billion Euros."Exports remain the driving force behind thesector growth in Italy. The dynamism of majortextile markets combined with the ability ofItalian machinery manufacturers to assertthemselves on a global scale, has contributed tosustaining Italian exports," ACIMIT, the Italiantextile machinery association said in a statement."Fully 25 per cent of the sector's sales abroad aredirected to China, with Asian markets generallyaccounting for 50 per cent of all foreign sales."The latest National Institute of Statistics data onItalian exports for the first 10 months of 2011show significant growth in all markets, whetherEuropean (France +44 per cent, Germany +56 percent); non-European (Russia +88 per cent,Turkey +83 per cent); American (United States+81 per cent, Brazil +15 per cent, Peru +15 percent); and Asian (Bangladesh +49 per cent, China+11 per cent, South Korea +53 per cent,Japan+30 per cent, India +22 per cent, Indonesia+58 per cent).

ACIMIT says these are all countries where Italianexports also experienced strong growth in 2010.Demand has remained weak in the domesticmarket as Italy, like other European Unioncountries suffer from poor recovery ininvestments due to the current economicuncertainty.According to ACIMIT, in spite of the growthexperienced in 2011, Italian machinerymanufacturers remain extremely cautious for thecurrent year."Global demand for textile machinery beganslowing last summer. The latter months of 2011and the beginning of this year have confirmed asetback in new orders for many producers. This isa consequence of the current difficult economicconditions," said Sandro Salmoiraghi, presidentof ACIMIT."The positive outcome of ITMA Barcelona, theindustry's primary trade fair held last September,provided us with some reasons to be optimistic.However, many deals which had been initiated atthe trade fair have not yet been finalized, giventhe state of uncertainty hovering over the futureoutlook of the markets."

"Let's just say 2012 hasn't started off with thebest of prospects. The evolution of the economyover the course of the next quarter will provide amore accurate description of what the futureholds for us: whether to expect a recovery orrenewed stagnation.""The economic slowdown has also affected andcurrently affects developing countries as well,including their textile sectors. The drop inconsumer spending in developed markets haspenalized major garment exporting countries —above all China. In 2012, it will be difficult tofind markets capable of significantly increasingtheir installed production capacity," predictsSalmoiraghi.ACIMIT says that in hard times such as these,institutions must be as supportive as ever."Roughly 80 per cent of production in our sectoris directed at foreign markets," attestsSalmoiraghi."This high propensity towards exports, combinedwith the comparatively small size of ourmanufacturers, means that they absolutely mustbe supported in order to face up to internationalcompetition."Salmoiraghi's appraisal for the reconstruction ofthe ICE — Italian institute for foreign trade, isaccompanied by the hope that the agency willrapidly return to full scale operations."The ICE is an essential element in a mosaic thatmust be completed with a greater level of supportfrom the banking system, which many ItalianSMEs have called upon to ease access to creditduring these difficult times," he concludes.

A NEWLY INVENTED natural dye is expected to reduce the cost of textileproduction in Kenya.

According to Moi University Vice Chancellor Richard Mibey, who is theprincipal researcher, the dye will considerably cut operational costs sincelocal producers have been relying on imported varieties.

“This innovation will go a long way inthe revitalisation of the textile industry inKenya that has remained threatened bythe second-hand clothes (mitumba)industry over the years, due to the latter’saffordability,” Prof Mibey was quoted assaying by the Daily Nation.

Rivatex East Africa Textile Millslaunched the natural dye that is producedfrom a local herb — tagetes minuta,commonly referred to as Stinking Roger,a herb that grows naturally in variousparts of the country.

It took the university three years tomake the discovery that is expected tosave the industry at least Sh18 million.

Other co-inventors were Dr DavidTuigong, the Rivatex East Africa managing director, and Mr BillyMakumba, an employee of the university.

New dye to lower cost of textile production

Continued growth for Italian textile machinery sector


Moi University Vice ChancellorRichard Mibey


S03 AFTEX Issue 1 2012 Dyes & Chemicals_calendar.qxd 16/02/2012 14:41 Page 9

TEXTILE DYEHOUSES ARE underpressure globally as the demands of

retailers for frequent and rapid delivery of repeatbatches of material dyed to the same shadeincrease. Retailers use electronic point of saleinformation (EPOS) to establish which garmentsare selling more rapidly, so that they can specifythe sizes, designs and colours that are demandedby consumers.

The pressures on the High Street are nowgreat because of intense competition betweenretailers in the aftermath of Christmas spendingby consumers. The effects of price reductions inorder to attract consumers has exerted downwardpressure on stockholding levels, and hence rapiddelivery of styles, designs and colours ofgarments that are selling is important forretailers to maximise sales at this critical time inthe market. Maximising sales and decreasingstock levels coupled with minimising workingcapital and minimising apparel markdowns canall increase the profitability and globalcompetitiveness of the retailer.

Textile dyehouses can gain competitiveadvantages if they can successfully apply RFT(Right-First-Time) dyeing to their production.RFT dyeing is recognised as the best approach toachieving short lead times in dyeing and,moreover, RFT dyeing is the most sustainableapproach to conventional dyeing because itminimises the consumption of resources e.g.water, energy, dyestuffs and chemicals. Inaddition, it also minimises the volume of wastewater to be released and also the cost of wastewater treatment. Because textile dyeing andfinishing is a service sector of the textile industry,it follows that RFT dyeing provides greaterservice to customers e.g. retailers, because of theshorter lead times and the greater consistency interms of reproducibility of shade in repeat batchesof the same colour.

RFT dyeing in textile dyehouses exerts adramatic effect upon the production efficiency,production capacity and hence on deliveryschedules. In addition RFT dyeing generatesgreater sales turnover and profitability. Blinddyeing i.e. dyeing in production withoutestablishing the shade/recipe in the dyehouselaboratory is not practised in many dyehouses. Butif the shade/recipe are established in the firstproduction dyeing, then RFT dyeing can usuallybe carried out on repeat batches, provided that thedyeability of the textile fibres remains the same as

in the first batch.Dyehouse profitability inevitably suffers if a

shading addition or shading additions have to bemade, while stripping and redyeing a batchimpacts negatively with a massive effect onprofitability.

Textile dyers therefore must consider carefullyhow additions etc. can be avoided by the correctselection of dyestuffs, chemicals and auxiliaries,coupled with close control over the productiondyeing process. Dyehouses which are part of avertical group are often better placed for operatingRFT dyeing and blind dyeing because of thegreater control over the dyeability of the textilematerial. Commission dyehouses have to copewith a greater variation in the dyeability of thematerials despatched to them for dyeing.

RFT dyeing involves three main approachesthat contribute to production dyeing, namely:-• Standardisation of dyestuffs;• Shade reproducibility; and• Robust dyeing processes.

Dye standardisationAll dyemakers have had to invest in dyestandardisation procedures, and major dyemakerssuch as Clariant, Dohmen, DyStar and Huntsmanstandardise for hue, colour strength and moisturecontent, as well as on limits of impurities etc.Dyestuffs such as the Dianix AM disperse dyestuffsfrom DyStar, for example, are manufactured to thelatest state-of-the-art accuracy in standardisation,namely +-1.5% in colour strength / DE 0.2 CMC2:1. These exacting production specifications applyto DyStar’s Dianix AM Classics, Dianix AM

Specialities and Dianix AM-SLR dyestuffs toensure controlled coloration. Dianix AM dyestuffsalso provide very good shade reproducibilitybecause of their good stability to pH and state-of-the-art standardising technology. Dyestuffstandardisation is a key factor in transferringlaboratory dyeing recipes into production dyeingusing the RFT dyeing approach.

Close control of atmospheric temperature andrelative humidity in the dyestore can be a potentfactor in ensuring consistent weighing ofdyestuffs, auxiliaries and chemicals. Robotisedequipment for automated electronic checkweighing of dyestuffs in powder form is availablefrom many manufacturers such as Color Service,Lawer and Tecnorama. Automated dispensing ofliquid products to high accuracy is also availablefrom many manufacturers.

A major feature of the approach to RFT dyeingis the selection and use of compatible dyestuffs,i.e. dyestuffs that have very similar exhaustion /time curves. In this way, trichromatic mixtures ofdyestuffs will exhaust at the same rate, building upthe required shade on-tone. This is preferable tooff-tone build-up of the colour. The majordyemakers have screened their dyestuff ranges tooffer dyehouses optimised trichromats as well asoptimised application procedures for exhaust, pad-steam, pad-dry-thermofix or pad-batch dyeing.

An important step towards RFT dyeing is tounderstand how the dyestuffs selected exhaustonto the fibres. In this connection, the introductionof the Werner Mathis AG (Oberhasli/Zürich,Switzerland) Smart Liquor dyebath monitoringsystem offers textile dyers the possibility of

TEXTILE FINISHING

Dyebath monitoring aidsright-first-time dyeing


by Ian Holme

Mathis Smart Liquor


monitoring, analysing and optimising bothexhaust and continuous dyeing processes. TheMathis Smart Liquor dyebath monitoring systemis an advanced state-of-the-art system thatincorporates a fully fledged spectrophotometerwith several accessories for continuous on-lineas well as individual off-line measurements. Thissophisticated dyebath measurement system issupported by a powerful software package that

features the option of measuring up to six dyes ina dyebath simultaneously. Moreover the MathisSmart Liquor system can, in principle beconnected to any dyeing machine used in thelaboratory or in production.

The Mathis Smart Liquor system wasintroduced at ITMA 2003 in Birmingham, UK,and since that time extensive development hasbeen carried out. The many benefits of thisadvanced dyebath analysis system have beenrecognised globally and the system is used in13 countries by textile dyehouses, dyestuffsand auxiliary manufacturers and researchinstitutions.

The Mathis Smart Liquor system has beendesigned to work with all major dyestuff classese.g. reactive, disperse, acid, metal-complex,direct, etc. and can be connected to any dyeingmachine, either in the laboratory or inproduction, as long as there is some liquorcirculation (as in exhaust dyeing) or a pad liquor(e.g. continuous dyeing).

The integrated measurement system for pHand conductivity utilises a dual channelinstrument with an integrated multi-pointcalibration method. It incorporates automaticbuffer recognition and electrode test, togetherwith linear and non-linear temperaturecorrection. The SmartMachine software providesalgorithms for process optimisation, enabling foreach dyeing machine and dyeing recipe

calculation of the optimum temperature, anddosing gradients as well as the holding times.

Software moduleAn important feature especially for dispersedyeings on polyester fibres is the software modulethat calculates the so-called Dye SolubilityCoefficient. This is the ratio of insoluble dyepigment to dissolved dye on-line under actual

dyeing conditions. This permits a detailed analysisof both disperse dyestuff behaviour and also of theinfluence of auxiliaries on dyeing. It also enablesthe determination of when dyes start to diffuseinto the fibre.

Another important feature of the MathisSmart Liquor system is the SmartRinse softwarefor optimising the washing off process afterexhaust dyeing of cellulosic fibres with reactivedyes. The software utilises a physico-chemicalmodel for the calculation and incorporates anoptimisation method which enables the dyer toselect the cheapest recipe-specific process. TheMathis Smart Liquor system also uses aSmartPad-Liquor software model which isintegrated into SmartLiquor that eliminatestailing effects with reactive dyes. This isespecially suitable for cold pad-batch and E-Control dyeing processes. SmartManagersoftware allows the user to document andprioritise optimisation steps and alsoincorporates the ability to generate reports usingpre-defined templates.

The accumulated experience of users of thisversatile, advanced dyebath analysis system hasdemonstrated productivity increases of 20-25 percent using the existing dyeing machinerycoupled with higher levels of RFT production.Other benefits include cost reductions obtainedvia the analysis of exhaustion and wash-offcurves which have resulted from reduced

TEXTILE FINISHING


Callebaut de BlicquyOptilab system

Erhardt+Leimer GmbHAlbert-Leimer-Platz 186391 Stadtbergen, GermanyPhone +49 (0)821 2435-0Fax +49 (0)821 [email protected]

ELCUT BT 80 Edge cutter

Ultimate edge cutting system

Additional edge uncurling

Automatic Waste Control

Long Life Cutting Blades

Clean Cut Edge

Tensionless Cutting

Low Maintenance


expenditure on dyestuffs coupled with savings inwater and energy consumption.

Another dye optimisation system that wasshown at ITMA 2011 was the Callebaut deBlicquy (Tourcoing, France) Optilab system. Thislaboratory dyeing equipment allows thevisualisation of the behaviour of the dyestuffs inan exhaust dyeing as a function of the physical andchemical dyeing conditions. Four solutions areavailable namely:• Optilab “Full”• Optilab with solid addition• Optilab with liquid addition• Optilab “Light” (without solid and liquid

addition).The visualisation of the dye exhaustion

curves on the screen enables the user todetermine the speed and extent of the dyeexhaustion for an individual dye in a dye mixingas well as the compatibility of dyes used in atrichromat. In addition, the influence ofauxiliary products such as levelling agents onthe rate of exhaustion and the time of migrationand fixation can both be measured. The Optilablaboratory system can also be used to assess theefficiency of rinsing and soaping.

Adaptive Control Solutions Ltd (Shipley, UK)are software and process control specialists that

provide advanced dyeing machine control systems,ranging from individual machine controllers tomulti-machine control. These use touch-screencontrol technology and powerful software controlthat enable dyers to rapidly control and monitoreach machine. The system provides a local real-time schedule of work, a complete list of runningsteps, live graph, animated machine-mimic andhistorical graphs that are stored for future analysis.Integration is simple, with network links to Excel,Access, corporate networks and with the AdaptivePlant Explorer central control system. This multi-machine control system enables users to run thedyeing machines separately or in multiplecombination for maximum production efficiencyand flexibility.

The Adaptive Plant Explorer central controlsystem stores the control and monitoringinformation from around the plant and stores it ina standard Microsoft SQL Server database. Anovel feature of this advanced central controlsystem is the ability to download their free PlantExplorer app. Managers / supervisors who may beon the move thus have the facility to connect to thefactory Wi-Fi or make a VPN connection whichwill link them on-line to the same screens on theoffice PC copy of Plant Explorer. Thus theprogress of a batch through the dyeing plant can

be simply followed.A new online monitoring system for indigo

coloration was presented at ITMA 2011. Thishas been developed jointly by DyStar ColoursDeutschland GmbH, Frankfurt, Germany,Becatron AG, Müllheim, Switzerland andLilienwei GmbH, Remshalden, Germany. Basedupon new technology, this novel IndiLine onlinemonitoring system allows all importantparameters to be analysed and monitored by asingle device. Thus, critical process parameterssuch as:• Indigo concentration• Reducing agent concentration• Temperature• Electrolyte concentration• Alkalinity / pH-value, and• Redox potential

can be monitored rapidly, enabling cost-effective control of these important dyebathparameters. The new system incorporates auto-calibration, is self-cleaning and there is noinaccuracy caused by sulfur dye contamination.Clearly such a process monitoring and controlsystem should be an important step in achievinghigher levels of RFT production in indigodyeing coupled with further improvement indyeing quality. ❑

TEXTILE FINISHING


TEXTILE MACHINERYMAJOR Rieter recordedsignificant growth in the2011 financial year. Salesrose by 22 per cent to 1060.8 million CHF. Ordersreceived were 34 per centlower than the exceptionallystrong outcome in theprevious year, but remainedat a healthy level (958.3million CHF).Rieter thus still has a goodbacklog of orders in hand.The figures as of December31, 2011, are the firstreported by Rieter for a full

financial year in the new structure which came into effect on May 13,2011, following the separation of the Rieter Group. Since then Rieter hasbeen an industrially focused supplier of machinery and components forstaple fiber spinning mills. Rieter will publish final figures and its annualreport on March 21, 2012, according to a company press release.The boom in demand on the world market for textile machinery andcomponents experienced in 2010 continued in the first quarter of 2011.The investment climate started to cool off as of the second quarter. Thehigh cost of cotton and declining yarn prices intensified pressure onspinning mills’ margins and liquidity. The second half of the year wasalso dominated by uncertainty due to the trend in raw material prices andprospects for the global economy. As of the second quarter, the marketretreated to a lower level compared with the previous year. Demand foryarns also declined in 2011. However, spinning mills were able to reduceyarn inventories to some extent again in the second half of the year.

Rieter reports significant increase in sales

Rieter still has a good backlog of orders in hand

WEB GUIDING SPECIALIST Erhardt+Leimer has launched ELCUT BTA 80,a new cutting system that meets the requirements of knitted fabricmanufacturers: reduced cutting waste, minimum maintenance, long life, andeasy retrofitting of old cutting devices.“Quite a number of sophisticated details reflect more than 90 years ofexperience of Erhardt+Leimer in the field of web guiding and cuttingsystems. Long-life blades that can be used on both sides, an actuator allowingexact positioning of the system via two push buttons, or automatic follow-upcontrol of the cutting devices by web edge via sensors guarantee topperformance at minimum effort,” a company official said.There are three versions of ELCUT BTA 80: The basic version is supplied

with an actuator allowingexact manual positioning viatwo push buttons. The secondbasic version includes asensor with a captive range of+/- 3 mm. When the webwidth changes the sensor hasto be positioned manuallyonce, then the systemautomatically follows theweb edge. The premiumversion is supplied with awide band sensor that has acaptive range of +/- 75 mm.When the web widthchanges, the new position ofthe web edge is fixed at thepush of a button. Due to itswide captive range, the webis always in the field view ofthe sensor.

New cutting system from Erhardt+Leimer

Erhardt+LeimerELCUT BTA 80


LE MARCHÉ MONDIAL de l’impression surtissus représente environ 27 milliards de

mètres carrés et, selon un rapport publié parGlobal Industry Analysts, Inc (États-Unis), uneaugmentation annuelle de près de trois pourcent se traduirait par une croissance jusqu’à 30à 32 milliards de mètres carrés d’ici 2015. Lamajeure partie de la production de ce marchérepose sur des machines d’impression ensérigraphie à rotatives qui sont parfaitementadaptées aux longs cycles de production avecune même palette de couleurs.

Cependant, en raison de la croissance desdemandes visant à réduire les délaisd’impression et à proposer des conceptionsplus innovantes tout en accélérant le rythmede production, ce marché commence à subircertaines pressions. Ces demandes favorisenten effet davantage l’impression numérique àjet d’encre qui permet de stocker lesconceptions numérisées par voie informatiqueet d’imprimer à la demande, ce qui correspondparfaitement aux exigences du marché enmatière de réactivité.

La répartition géographique du marchémondial de l’impression est la suivante : Chine(30 pour cent), Inde (17,5 pour cent), autrepays d’Asie (18,8 pour cent), Russie et CIS(11,1 pour cent), Amérique du Nord et du Sud(12,9 pour cent) et Moyen-Orient/Afrique (9,7pour cent). Les grandes entreprises asiatiquesd’impression sur textile occupent donc uneposition dominante sur le marché. Toutefois, enraison de l’augmentation des coûts salariauxen Chine, leur position de leader pourrait êtreremise en cause sous la pression de l’Inde etdes autres pays d’Asie. L’Afrique et le Moyen-Orient pourraient profiter des opportunitésoffertes par ces nouvelles préoccupations enmatière d’impression en approvisionnant lemarché européen, profitant ainsi de leurproximité géographique avec l’Europe parrapport à la Chine.

Au cours de l’année passée, les fabricantsde machines d’impression numérique à jetd’encre et les fabricants de produits chimiquesspécifiques pour les encres ont continué àproposer des développements majeursdestinés au marché de l’impression à jetd’encre. Pour le moment, le marché del’impression numérique sur textile resterelativement confidentiel avec environ 200millions de mètres carrés par an, soit 0,75 pourcent du marché mondial de l’impressiontraditionnelle. Toutefois, les avancées réaliséesen matière de conception de têtes d’impression

à grande vitesse pour l’impression numériquecombinées aux nouvelles encres pour jetd’encre ont fait entrer l’impression numérique àjet d’encre dans une nouvelle ère et ouvrent lavoie à une expansion majeure de cettetechnique dans le domaine de l’impression surtextile et de l’impression directe sur textile.

Impression en sérigraphieStork Prints a présenté sa machined’impression en sérigraphie par rotativePegasus EVO, qui succède à la machinePegasus CC déjà bien établie, lors du salonITMA 2011. La machine Pegasus EVO estbasée sur des technologies déjà éprouvées etintègre les développements les plus récentsainsi que toutes les fonctionnalités suscitéespar la demande du marché afin de fournir uneexcellente qualité à un prix raisonnable.Proposée en configuration à palier ouvert oufermé, la machine Pegasus EVO peut êtreconfigurée pour des impressions de 1,85 à3,20 mètres de large. La position des lames oudes racles magnétiques peut être précisémentet automatiquement ajustée ainsi, que relevéeimmédiatement.

La souplesse d’exécution de la machinePegasus EVO combinée au système decontrôle innovant proposé par Stork Prints esten passe de créer une nouvelle référence dansle domaine de l’impression en sérigraphie parrotative. La servo-technologie et les diagnosticsà distance de pointe sont à la base de cette

réussite. Le principal avantage de cettemachine est la possibilité de mettre à niveauune machine d’impression en sérigraphie parrotative existante avec les fonctionnalitésd’impression Pegasus EVO.

L’impression pigmentaire représente plus de50 pour cent du marché de l’impression textilecar elle permet d’imprimer sur tous les types defibres et de mélanges de fibres sans avoirrecours au vaporisage ou au lavage. Letraitement à haute température du liant permetd’obtenir de bonnes propriétés globales desolidité, notamment des pigments qui assurentune bonne solidité à la lumière.

L’impression pigmentaire utilise desdispersions de pigments, des liants et desagents de réticulation, ainsi que desépaississants et des adjuvants. Les liantsutilisés sont des polymères filmogènes quiadhèrent à la surface de la fibre et sont fixés aufilm du liant après traitement thermique despigments. Le liant utilisé peut être de typeautoréticulé ou réticulé par réaction avec unagent de réticulation approprié. Il est essentielque le film du liant soit flexible et extensible. Parailleurs, le marché est de plus en plusdemandeurs d’impressions au toucher plusdoux. Les épaississants et autres adjuvantssont généralement ajoutés pour s’assurer quela rhéologie de la pâte d’impression estappropriée pour l’impression en sérigraphie parrotative ou une autre méthode d’impression.

Infa (qui fait partie du Groupe Prochimica

L’IMPRESSION NUMERIQUE

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 1ERE EDITION/2012 13

L’impression numérique amorce une ère nouvelle

Au cours de l’année passée, les fabricants de machinesd’impression numérique à jet d’encre et les fabricantsde produits chimiques spécifiques pour les encres ontcontinué à proposer des développements majeursdestinés au marché de l’impression à jet d’encre.


Novarese en Italie) a récemment introduit unsystème d’impression utilisant des pigmentsultradoux qui offrent une sensation au toucherne présentant aucune différence avecl’impression à l’aide de colorants selon laplupart des utilisateurs. Le liant B2113 (IGSChemical Ind Co., Aleppo, Syrie) est un autretype de liant. Ce produit liquide blanc présentela caractéristique d'être non-ionique. Il est lerésultat de la dispersion thermoréactiveaqueuse d’un polymère acrylique. Le liantTephabind NF-B de Pulcra Chemicals(Allemagne) est basé sur un copolymèreacrylonitrile butadiène styrène et estspécialement conçu pour l’impressionpigmentaire.

Le système d’impression écologique deClariant (Suisse) repose sur un ensemblecomplet de composants GOTS (Global OrganicTextile Standards) : des adjuvants et descolorants approuvés exempts de formaldéhyde.Ainsi, les impressions textiles produites à l’aidede ce système ne requièrent aucun test visantà vérifier l’absence de formaldéhyde (requisenotamment par la loi japonaise 112), ce quireprésente un gain de temps et de coût.

Le système d’impression écologique deClariant est basé sur les liants Printofix BinderNF liq et Printofix Fixing Agent ZF liq. Cedernier est exempt de formaldéhyde ainsi qued’APEO (alkylphénols éthoxylés) et est basésur un copolymère acrylique autoréticuléconçu pour fournir d’excellentes performancesd’exécution des impressions en sérigraphie.Clariant propose aussi des épaississantsexempts de formaldéhyde comme PrintofixThickener CN, Printofix Thickener CSN etPrintofix CSFN. Ceux-ci sont utilisés avecl’assouplisseur Printofix Softener SFT, l’agentde fixage Printofix Fixing Agent ZF liq et desdispersions de pigments (Printofix T etPrintofix A).

Pour produire des impressions douces autoucher, Clariant a récemment introduitPrintofix Binder SFT qui permet d’obtenir un fini

éclatant avec un superbe rendement descouleurs. Printofix Binder SFT produit desimpressions pigmentaires offrant uneexcellente résistance au lavage et aufrottement. Sa composition chimique permetpar ailleurs d’obtenir des impressions autoucher doux.

Le liant Printofix Binder LTC de Clariantpromet de réaliser des économies d’énergienon négligeables. Pour ce conceptd’impression spécial, le traitement thermiquedure seulement deux minutes à 120° C. Cesystème de traitement thermique à bassetempérature a été conçu pour les imprimantesde table. Printofix Binder LTC est classéconforme à la norme Oeko-Tex Standard 100Classe 1, et contient très peu de formaldéhyde.Il présente d’excellentes propriétés devieillissement à la lumière et produit desimpressions au toucher doux et aux couleurséclatantes.

Impression numérique à jet d’encreUne étude menée conjointement par PIRAInternational et FESPA indique que le marchédes impressions numériques pourrait atteindreprès de 1,3 milliard de dollars d’ici 2014. Cettetechnologie d’impression évolue rapidement eta déjà réalisé quelques percées dans lesecteur des vêtements, des textiles ménagers,des textiles techniques et des signalétiques(comme les signalétiques sur textile), ainsi quedes drapeaux et des bannières. Les textilesautomobiles pourraient également devenir unsecteur porteur pour l’impression numérique.

Les formulations des encres destinées àl’impression numérique à jet d’encre jouentégalement un rôle crucial dans l’obtentiond’une excellente capacité d’impression. Lesencres FLARE de Stork Prints sont conçuespour les imprimantes utilisant des têtesd’impression Epson. Elles comprennent desencres réactives pour toutes les fibresnaturelles, des encres acides pour les tissus enpolyamide/Lycra, la laine et la soie, des encres

dispersées pour l’impression directe des tissusen polyester et des encres de sublimation etmélangées pour l’impression sur du papierpour sublimation permettant ensuitel’impression par transfert. Les encres ReAcidsont des encres modifiées spéciales quipermettent l’impression sur toutes les fibresnaturelles ainsi que sur le polyamide et leLycra. Les cartouches d’encre dégazées etexemptes d’air brevetées par Stork Prints sontconçues pour produire des impressionsautonomes à la vitesse la plus élevée dumarché.

La série d’encres NEBULA de Stork Printsest conçue pour satisfaire les exigencesstrictes de viscosité des têtes d’impressionKyocera et sont disponibles en bidons de 10 kg.La tête d’impression Kyocera KJ4B est dotéede 2 656 buses offrant une résolution de 600 x600 ppp (points par pouce) et fonctionne selonle procédé piézoélectrique d’impression pargoutte à la demande. Avec ces têtesd’impression, les imprimantes numériquespeuvent atteindre des vitesses d’impression surtissu à l’heure actuellement fournies par leséquipements d’impression automatique ensérigraphie à plat.

Le jeu d’encres réactives NEBULA de StorkPrints convient à la machine Stork Sphene 24équipée de têtes d’impression Kyocera KJ4B,imprimant en huit couleurs (trois têtes/couleur)pour atteindre une production maximale de 500m2/h. Le jeu d’encres QualJet K16 de LaMeccanica fonctionne avec les mêmes têtesd’impression Kyocera, pour des impressions enhuit couleurs (deux têtes/couleur) avec uneproduction maximale de 490 m2/h.

Les autres imprimantes numériques à jetd’encre utilisant les têtes d’impression KyoceraKJ4B sont les machines Honghua Vega600(16) et Vega 700 qui peuvent imprimerjusqu’à 450 et 1 000 m2/h respectivement enutilisant huit couleurs. L’imprimante JP38K deMS Italy imprime en huit couleurs (troistêtes/couleur) pour atteindre une productionmaximale de 550 m2/h. La machine Renoir deReggiani (huit couleurs, deux têtes/couleur)peut atteindre 400 m2/h.

La Durst Kappa 180 exploite la technologiede tête d’impression propriétaire de Durst,Quadro. Le système Durst QuadroZ Arraymodifié utilise des encres à base d’eauprojetées à travers une plaque de busesspécialement durcie et résistante aux éraillures.La taille des gouttes est de 7 à 21 picolitres. Parconséquent, 6 144 projections par couleurpermettent d’obtenir une résolution maximalede 1 680 ppp. Il est possible d’imprimer huitcouleurs (CMJN, orange, rouge, bleu et gris)sans modulations ni fluctuation de la densitégrâce au système de nettoyage automatiquedes buses de Durst. Par ailleurs, le système defiltrage à osmose élimine les bulles de gaz


14 TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 1ERE EDITION/2012

le marché des impressions numériques pourraitatteindre près de 1,3 milliard de dollars d’ici 2014.

5484 IDC A New Path AD 208x292.indd 1 2011/11/14 6:40 PM


5484 IDC A New Path AD 208x292.indd 1 2011/11/14 6:40 PM



DOMOTEX MIDDLE EAST— one of theleading trade fairs for carpets and floorcoverings in the MENA Region (MiddleEast/North Africa)— is moving to Istanbul,Turkey after six successful years in Dubai,

The fair will now be staged at the CNREXPO Center in Istanbul from this year.Domotex Middle East 2012 runs from 8 to 11November.

"Regrettably, the Emirate of Dubai wasunable to reach the ambitious goals it had setitself," explained Martin Folkerts, DirectorGlobal Fairs at Deutsche Messe. However, theMiddle East remains a highly promisingmarket for foreign companies, thanks to itsmany large-scale building projects. Forinstance, Saudi Arabia is planning a majorexpansion of infrastructure services in andaround the city of Mecca to cater for ever-increasing pilgrim numbers, while Qatar is

erecting new office and residential buildingsas well as hotels in the run-up to the 2022FIFA World Cup, which it will be hosting.These are just two of the many majordevelopment projects in the region.

At the same time, Turkey, with its populationof around 73 million, now ranks as the world's17th largest economy and also boastseconomic growth that is well above the globalaverage. In the second quarter of 2011,Turkey's gross domestic product (GDP) grewby a stunning 8.8 per cent year on year. Thecountry's economic growth rate for 2010 as awhole was an impressive 8.9 per cent growth.Economists expect the country's rapideconomic expansion to continue, especially inthe building and construction sector.Forecasts say that around 210 million squaremeters (2.26 billion sq. ft) of carpets and floorcoverings will be laid in Turkey in 2012 alone.

Domotex Middle East moves to Istanbul

Domotex Middle East 2012 will beheld at the CNR EXPO Center inIstanbul, from 8 to 11 November

THE OEKO-TEX ASSOCIATION has as usualupdated the applicable test criteria and limitvalues for testing textiles for harmfulsubstances according to OEKO-TEX Standard100 at their annual meeting, with effect as of 1January 2012. The new requirements will comeinto force on 1 April. The regular re-evaluationof the test parameters is based on current marketand product developments, new toxicologicalfindings and new legal requirements, alsotaking into consideration the REAChlegislation, including the SVHC substancesrelevant to textile manufacturing which havebeen added in 2011.

In addition to introducing new test parameters,the scope of the control tests on OEKO-TEXcertified products carried out throughout theworld is being extended to cover 20 per cent of allcertificates issued annually in future, as opposedto the minimum 15 per cent tested to date. Inpractice, over recent years, an average of 18 percent of certificates have been tested using productsamples taken from the shops at the expense ofthe OEKO-TEX Association.

A new complement to the OEKO-TEXStandard 100 is now also available, on the basisof which it will be possible to certify specialproducts such as tents, prams, office chairs orrucksacks according to OEKO-TEX Standard100 in future.

More detailed information on the newversion of the OEKO-TEX criteria catalogue canbe obtained from the OEKO-TEX Secretariat, e-mail: [email protected]. A complete overviewof all limit values and test criteria can be foundat www.oeko-tex.com/limitvalues.

OEKO-TEX test criteria for 2012


présentes dans les encres. Avec une largeurd’impression maximale de 1 950 mm sur desmatériaux jusqu’à 10 mm d’épaisseur, laproduction pour une résolution de 1 056 x 600ppp est de 606 m2/h à la vitesse de 311 m/h.

La Nassenger Pro 1000 de Konica Minoltafournit une résolution de 540 x 360 ppp etpropose la vitesse d’impression la plus rapidedu marché avec 1 000 m2/h. Cette imprimanteest équipée d’un nouveau chariot de têted’impression comportant des têtesd’impression indépendantes récemmentdéveloppées, toutes pourvues de 1 024 busesavec une densité de 360 buses par pouce. LaNassenger Pro 1000 de Konica Minolta utilisedes encres réactives, dispersées et à base decolorants acides de qualité supérieure. Neufjeux d’encre de couleur sont fournis dans desbidons de 20 litres. Deux bidons d’encre parcouleur fournissent une capacité totale de 40litres permettant de nombreuses impressions.Si la Nassenger Pro 1000 convientparfaitement aux impressions de production, la

Nassenger Pro 60 de Konica Minolta dont lavitesse d’impression est de 60 m2/h est tout àfait adaptée à la production d’épreuves.

L’Osiris de Xennia Technology Ltd est uneimprimante textile numérique au rendementextrêmement élevé qui utilise jusqu’à huitcouleurs (couleurs de quadrichromie oud’accompagnement) avec possibilité de miseà niveau jusqu’à 12 couleurs. Cetteimprimante permet des largeurs d’impressionjusqu’à 1,85 mètres avec une qualité ditesupérieur à celle des impressions ensérigraphie à rotatives. Il est possibled’atteindre des vitesses de production de 30m/min avec une couverture totale (équivalenteà la couverture d’une surface de 3 330 m2/h).Cette couverture d’encre élevée permet dedécorer des tissus très épais comme ceuxutilisés pour la mode ou pour l’ameublement.

La machine Colaris de Zimmer peut êtreconfigurée pour imprimer sur des épaisseursde 1 800, 2 600 ou 3 200 mm en utilisantquatre, six ou huit couleurs. Cette machine

utilise les têtes d’impression en niveaux degris AQ-508-GS de SII Printek (Seiko) quifournissent une résolution de 360 à 1 400 pppselon la configuration de l’imprimante. Lesystème d’application Magnoroll de Zimmerpermet de prétraiter les tissus en ligne. Lesencres utilisées peuvent être CMJN, CMJN+2ou CMJN+4 ou 2 x CMJN pour doubler lavitesse d’impression. L’imprimante Colaris deZimmer est adaptée à l’impression de toustypes de tissus, des soies les plus légères aux serviettes éponges les plus épaisses.

L’imprimante Allegro de Kornit peutimprimer jusqu’à 280 m2/h avec unerésolution de 500 x 500 ppp sur uneépaisseur de 1 800 mm. Elle utilise des têtesd’impression Spectra (32 têtes d’impressionmaximum, quatre par couleur) et fournit unerésolution de 363 à 800 ppp. Le système deprétraitement des tissus PreT de Kornitutilise un agent de fixage inodore pour lierles encres à base d’eau sur les tissus encours d’impression. ❑


THE CLOTHING AND textile industry isextremely competitive and highly fragmented.

Differentiating products and brands is thereforeimportant and this can be facilitated throughimproving and maintaining consistency in quality.

Testing can be used to measure various aspectsof objective quality, to make sure the garment orother textile product is fit for the purpose it isintended, to what degree, and ensuring complianceto defined standards.

There is a plethora of different standards, anyparticular product may need to adhere to dependingon the end use that product is intended for.

Although there are internationally recognized ISOstandards, many countries, such as America,Australia and the European Union, or trade blockshave their own standards. On top of this, many keyretailers and brands insist on their own dedicatedstandards, such as Next, Marks and Spencer andLimited, to ensure consistency of quality throughtheir brands.

There is also a wide range of tests available tothe textile industry to ascertain the compliance of afabric or finished product. These include tensile,bursting, button / snap pull and tearing strengthmeasurements, abrasion and pilling assessment,

stretch and recovery measurements, flammabilitymeasurements, rub, wash and perspiration fastness,shrinkage and much else.

There are many companies in the market whospecialize in making fabric testing equipment, andothers who provide specialist testing servicesthrough dedicated laboratories. UK-based SDLAtlas claims to offer the largest range of textiletesting products, supplies, consumables, andservices available from a single source. It has over600 textile testing solutions within its portfolio. TheIndia-based company MAG Solvics Private Limitedsupplies over 130 pieces of test equipment for fibres,yarns and fabrics, all compliant with the appropriateinternational test standards including ISO, AATCC,ASTM, BS, IS, SDC, IWS, IWTO, ITF. It has morethan 7000 installations and 3600 customers. ItalianMesdan offers a wide range of equipment for theanalysis of fibres, yarns, traditional and technicaltextile fabrics, nonwovens, leather, etc, incompliance with international standards.

The more functional a garment, the more testingis required. As both fabrics and garments seetechnologies advances, test methods and equipmenttoo should keep up with the progress.

Martindale TestThe Martindale Test is used to check fabricdurability and suitability for various uses as it testsfor abrasion and pilling on woven, nonwoven andknitted fabrics. A circular specimen, mounted in aspecimen holder and subjected to a defined load, isrubbed against a defined abrasive medium in atranslational movement tracing a Lissajous figure,the specimen holder being additionally freelyrotatable around its own axis perpendicular to theplane of the specimen. The normal end point of thetest is when two threads are broken or in the case ofpile fabrics when the pile has completely worn off.

Nearly all test equipment companies supplysuch equipment, though that supplied by JamesHeal has been recently updated and modernised.There are now three models in its Martindale 900series, with nine, five or two stations. Each stationis easily accessible from the front of the machinewith unobstructed access; each has finger grips foreasy removal of the top plates providing tool freechange between motions. Constructed from lightweight, hard wearing materials, the top plates areprecision engineered from aircraft grade hardanodised aluminium. There is a versatile andintuitive control panel with optional voice prompts,a comprehensive range of sample holding options

Niki Tait looks at some of the new testing methods and advancedequipment available today

James Heal Martindale 900

APPARELAfrica and the Middle East


Fabric testing : a constantly evolving science

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and the machine complies with all knownMartindale test standards.

Also within James Heal’s updated range is theTitan 4 Universal Strength Tester which can test thestrength of yarns, fabrics, garments and the securityof attachments by applying a constant rate ofextension (CRE test). Standards-compliant, it canoperate in both tension and compression modesusing an extensive range of tool-free,interchangeable specimen grips, and a choice ofthree load cells— up to 3000N (approximately300kg). The single TestWise test analysis softwarepackage for yarn, leather, fabric and nonwovensincludes analysis of tensile strength, seam slippage,security of attachments, button strength, pile loopextraction, tear strength, peel bond (delamination),stretch and recovery (cyclic), ball burst, punctureand crushing. It contains an extensive library of pre-loaded, national and international standards, andretailers’ test methods, with a ‘Standards Editor’which makes it easy to modify existing standards orcreate new methods. After selection of the requiredstandard or method test, parameters (includinggauge length) can be automatic set.

James Heal’s TruBurst 3, is a fully pneumaticbursting and 3D fatigue tester, which comfortablyexceeds the exacting requirements of ISO 13938-2,ASTM D3786 and of many other national and

international standards. The inherent flexibility ofTruBurst 3 gives it the capability to test a broadrange of materials including textiles, nonwovens,paper, board, plastics and medical products. Keyfeatures include non-contact laser distensionmeasurement for accurate results, automaticdiaphragm correction to improve precision,adjustable clamping pressure to avoid slippage orspecimen damage, automatic burst detect system,illuminated viewing area, automatic recognition oftest dome with tool free change over to acceleratetesting and reduce downtime. It comes with intuitivesoftware for experienced and inexperienced userswhich enables the machine to cycle up to 500 timesto a pressure or distension, and test methodconfiguration enabling up to 50 customer definabletests. The dual control model has been approved byboth Marks and Spencer and adidas.

Tearing strength testersElmendorf type tearing strength testers are used todetermine the tearing strength of fabrics, plasticfilms or other similar materials. Many companiessupply this type of tester; including India-based B-Tex Engineering. Conforming with theinternational standards its Elmendorf Type Testerdetermines the tearing strength by measuring thework done in tearing through a fixed length of the

test specimen. It consists of a sector pendulumpivoted on anti-friction ball bearings on a verticalbracket fixed on a rigid metallic base.

The pendulum is raised till it rests against therelease block pin. Both the jaws have to be openedand the test specimen is inserted between the jaws.The cutting lever is pushed to make the slit in thetest specimen; raising it till the knife goes up to themaximum extent possible. The knife has to belowered to its initial position and the pointer has tobe moved till it rests against the pointer stopperscrew. The pendulum is then released. The leverhas to be held until the tear is completed and thenreleased on the return swing. The scale is then readto the nearest whole division. The process is thenrepeated five times and average is taken out. Theresult is calculated by using the formula: TearingStrength (g) = K x mean value of scale reading.

MAG Solvics Private Limited also offers anElmendorf Type Tearing Strength Tester it calls‘MecTear’ which uses the Elmendorf method todetermine the ballistic tearing strength of fabric.Supplied with calibration weights and augmentingmass, this Elmendorf Tearing Strength Tester has anApplicable Standard(s) ± 1 per cent of FSR andcomplies with standards ASTM D1424, BS4253/4468, ISO 9290/13937 & IS 6489. It has acapacity/sample size of up to 1600 / 3200 / 6400grams.

PresoHot XT is MAG Solvics’ sublimationtester, which is used to determine colour fastnessagainst hot pressing or dry heat on textiles. Threepairs of pressure heads are used. Differenttemperatures can be set for each pair enabling threesamples to be tested at a time. It uses a modularheating system with pre-programmable electronictemperature controllers, each thermally isolated foreffective and safe usage. It measures from ambienttemperature to 250°C with ± 1°C accuracy andadheres to standards AATCC 92 / 114 / 117 / 133,BS 1006, ISO 105 and IS 689.

Another example of the testing equipment fromMAG Solvics is its PerspiRator DX whichmeasures colour fastness to water and perspiration.With a sample size of 60 x 60 or 40 x 100 mm, up to40 samples at a time can be tested to BS, AAT andISO standards. Dual plates, compensating springsand loading weights ensure standard operation. It ismade from 100 per cent stainless steel.

Measuring comfort levelsRecent studies have revealed that for most activewear purchasers, the comfort of their apparel’sfabric is closely linked to its ability to handlemoisture such as perspiration. Researchers havetherefore been seeking to develop various meansfor objectively measuring and documentingcomfort levels and moisture handling. Althoughsome test methods exist for evaluating absorbency,wicking and strike-through time, existing standardshave been unable to measure the behaviour ofliquid transfer in clothing materials dynamically.

SDL Atlas has developed a new moisture

FABRIC TESTING

James Heal Titan 4



management tester for measuring the moisture handling properties ofperformance fabrics for active wear and other apparels. This has recently earnedapproval from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC).

The unit dynamically measures liquid transfer behaviour in knitted, wovenand non-woven textile fabrics using upper and lower concentric moisturesensors. It generates six key indexes— wetting time top/bottom, absorption ratetop/bottom, maximum wetted radius top/bottom, spreading speed top/bottom,accumulative one-way transport capacity, overall moisture managementcapacity— and a quantifiable one-way moisture movement index value.

MMT consists of upper and lower concentric moisture sensors. Thespecimen is held flat under fixed pressure between the sensors while standardtest solution is introduced on to the top surface of the fabric. Electricalresistance changes between the upper and lower sensors are then recordeddynamically on computer.

The SDL Atlas Sweating Guarded Hotplate measures thermal and watervapour resistance, simulating the heat and mass transfer processes of humanskin. The specimen to be tested is placed on an electronically heated porousplate with conditioned air ducted to flow across and parallel to its upper surface.Housed in a conditioned cabinet, the instrument operates with user-friendlyWindows software and prints out standard test reports. This test conforms toISO 11092 standards. The SDL Atlas Hydrostatic Head Tester measures theresistance of a fabric to penetration by water under hydrostatic pressure. Thisnew instrument is applicable to all types of woven, knitted, and nonwovenfabrics, including those with water repellent and waterproof finishes andcomplies with AATCC, ISO and 68 testing standard. Specimens are subjected toincreasing (dynamic] or static hydrostatic pressure, until three points of leakageoccur. After a minimum of three specimens are tested, calculation of the averagemaximum hydrostatic pressure is reported in mBars or cm H2O, to rate thefabric. This new Hydrostatic Head Tester offers increased capacities in bothhydrostatic pressure and fabric thickness, greater efficiency through end-of-testalarms and auto head refills, preloaded test standards, and downloadable results.

The SDL Atlas Air Permeability Tester automatically measures the flow of airthrough a given area of a fabric (set by a selected standard orifice) at a givenpressure drop over this test area during the time called out by the acceptedstandard. Exclusive features include automatic detection of the test head size andan automatic ranging system that eliminates the need for a pre-test to discoverand then set the instrument range. The 50 cm test arm allows for simple testingon a large sample without having to cut multiple small specimens. The compact

size and included casters permit the instrument to be setup quickly and easilywherever testing needs to be done, from the laboratory to the production floor.

Turn-key thermal manikin systemMeasurement Technology Northwest in the USA have developed a completeturn-key thermal manikin system, called Newton, which can be used for a widerange of clothing and environmental testing. The system is constructed from acarbon-epoxy shell. The shell has embedded resistance wire heating and sensorwire elements, and it is filled with thermally conductive aluminium. Newtonwas developed using advanced computer-aided design (CAD) digital modellingto ensure accuracy and repeatability in both manufacturing and in testing. It isavailable in 20-zone, 26-zone or 34-zone configurations, but the number ofzones and other thermal properties can be customised for faster transientresponse, greater sensitivity or easier handling. Two adult body forms areavailable, Western Male or Asian Male, in either a dry format or a sweatingformat. A child version is also available. All packages include a computer withthe company’s exclusive ThermDAC control software.

Also available from Measurement Technology Northwest is a submersiblethermal manikin called Nemo. It is an advanced, fully immersible aluminiummanikin with embedded heating and thermistor sensor elements. All of theelectronics for heating and control are located inside the manikin for maximumaccuracy and easy maintenance. The manikin is completely waterproof andweighs 155 lb (70 kg), which approximates to the average weight of a humanbeing. It is rated for immersion testing to depths of 10 ft (3 m), which means thatit can be used to conduct realistic testing of diving gear, marine survival suits,and other protective garments. Nemo features sealed joints with adjustablefriction settings at the ankles, elbows, knees and hips. These joints will maintaintheir watertight integrity in any pose.

Salzmann AG St. Gallen produces and sells the MST Professional, a pressuremeasuring device for medical compression and support stockings which canmeasure standard production as well as custom made stockings. It can alsorecord the elastic properties and contains a test programme for qualityassurance. Pressure gradients can be measured for standardized and individual

FABRIC TESTING

Salzmann AG St. Gallen produces the MST Professional pressuremeasuring device for medical compression and support stockings


The SDL Atlas Air Permeability Tester


leg measurements with strength/stretch diagramssimultaneously produced for several measuringpoints. A variable leg form is used which can cover95 per cent of known sizes. Correlation with HOSY,HATRA and CEN (ITFH) is possible. The flatmeasuring probe does not bulge, therefore thematerial is not overstretched before measurement,and no faulty measurement is possible, as is thecase with a bulky probe. The results can be read offdirectly, and do not need to be converted usingtables and formulae. The MST is mobile and canbe used anywhere. Measurements can be fullyreproduced when made by different operators.

Although not new, the WIRA SteamingCylinder is claimed by WIRA to be ‘the tested andtrusted industry standard’ in extensive usethroughout industry and large retailers. It facilitatesthe prediction of cloth shrinkage in making-up andprovides a reproducible measure of 'relaxation'shrinkage using an international standard testmethod, whilst providing a rapid routine test forprocess control.

The cylinder has a double walled thermallyinsulated steaming chamber into which the clothspecimens are placed on a stainless steel supportingframe of low heat capacity and surface area. Steamis fed to the equipment by an integral steamgenerator. This is connected to a water supply, thusmaking the operation automatic.

The WIRA Steaming Cylinder subjects fourcloth specimens at a time to dry saturated steam atatmospheric pressure. The specimens are given nomechanical restraint and there is no subsequentvacuum cooling. The device provides areproducible measure of the component ofshrinkage occurring in steam pressing attributableto latent strains in the cloth supplied. Any furthershrinkage that may occur arises from thecharacteristics of the pressing process itself. Anautomatic timer is incorporated in the apparatus togive an indication of the 30-second cycle requiredfor BS4323 and ISO3005.

Standard testIn the standard test, the specimens arepreconditioned in the standard atmosphere fortesting textiles. They are then marked using themeasuring device and then measured. Steamed for30 seconds, followed by 30 seconds of rest outsidethe cylinder, this cycle is performed three times inall. The specimens are then re-measured.

WIRA also manufactures a wide range ofinstruments for the testing of traditional andnonwoven fabrics used in PPE materials andprotective clothing including radiant heat andflame test apparatus. In the metal industries,protective clothing is expected to protect againstheat and molten metal. The WIRA molten testapparatus, PCT:003, subjects the sample to acontrolled application of molten metal. Anembossed PVC film is placed behind the testspecimen. The small quantity of molten metal ispoured into the specimen that is supported at anangle. The PVC film is then inspected for damage.The test is repeated using greater or smalleramounts of molten metal until minimum damageto the film is observed.

Clothing designed for protecting wearers againstsmall splashes of molten metal is often submitted tohigh thermal loads and so an important function isthe resistance to heat transfer through the protectivematerial. Using the WIRA Small Drops MoltenMetal Test Apparatus, PCT:004, drops of moltenmetal are formed by melting the end of a steel rodby means of an oxyacetylene torch. A rod islowered at a controlled speed to create a steadystream of drops. The drops fall vertically into afunnel which guides the metal drops onto the testspecimen. Behind the specimen a tem¬peraturesensor monitors the temperature. The number ofdrops is counted as the temperature is monitoredand the temperature rises by 40 °C.

Protective clothing such as hand protectors aredesigned to protect against high contacttemperatures. In the WIRA Contact Heat Testing

Apparatus - PCT:005, the heating cylinder is heatedup to the desired contact temperature. Thetemperature, normally in the range 100˚C to 500˚ Cis set by means of a temperature controller. Circularspecimens are cut from the product and placed onthe Calorimeter. The calorimeter is then raised untilcontact is made the heater and the temperature isrecorded over time. The time for a temperature riseof 10°C is recorded.

Static electricity on garment fabricsThe Mesdan Static Lab is suitable for checking thestatic electricity on garment fabrics, protectivefabrics, and leather and has a measuring range 105 –1014 Ohms. The instrument is composed of anelectronic console for the digital reading of staticelectricity values (Ohm), connecting cables and staticelectricity measuring heads for both the “surface” and“vertical” modes. It is built in accordance with ISOEN 1149-1 and ISO EN 1149-2.

The Mesdam Horizontal Flammability Tester3392C can be used tester for all U.S. apparel fabrics,other than children’s sleepwear. It is also used tomeasure the burning rate of materials used inautomotive, interiors and certain aircraft interiors. Itis automatic, with a solid state digital timer and usesa stationary burner with gas pilot light.

SATRA develops, designs and manufactures awide range of test equipment. Amongst these is acomplete set of test equipment to allow the tests tobe carried out for the requirements of EN 388:abrasion, cut, tear and puncture tests used, forexample, on industrial protective gloves

The SATRA STM 611 Circular Blade CutResistance Tester, for example, measures the cutresistance of a material in accordance with EN 388(Clause 6.2). A test sample is clamped in an easilyremoved holder, which is then placed onto themachine. The circular blade is gently lowered sothat it touches the test sample. With the counter setto zero, the ‘Start Test’ button is pressed to initialisethe test. When the rotating blade penetrates the testsample, the machine will automatically stop. Thenumber of cycles displayed on the counter screen isused to produce the cut index, which is a measure ofthe material’s cut resistance.

The SATRA STM 610 Cut Resistance Evaluatorapplies a cut to the sample with a straight blade. Anumber of cuts are made, each using a new blade. Agraph is then plotted of cutting stroke length comparedto blade loading, to predict the force at which the bladewill just penetrate the material at a 20mm stroke. Theresulting force in Newtons gives the cut index and EN388:2003 includes a possible correlation with theblade cut index value such as produced by STM 611.Other test methods using this equipment includeASTM F 1790-04 and ISO 13997. ❑

Niki Tait C. Text FCI FCFI heads Apparel Solutions(www.apparelsolutions,co,uk) which providesindependent assistance and training to the ApparelIndustry in the areas of manufacturing methods,industrial engineering, information technology,quick response, etc.

FABRIC TESTING


The Mesdam Static Lab


New designs and innovative functions were onshow across all product groups at the recently-

held Heimtextil 2012 in Frankfurt am Main,Germany. Exhibitors from all corners of the globeshowcased various materials, colours, patterns andshapes that would dominate the fashion world in thecoming season. With 2,634 exhibitors from 61countries, the number of manufacturers of homeand contract textiles taking part this year was up 2.4per cent compared to the previous edition in 2011.

“The exhibitors were delighted with the largeturn out of decision makers, the quality of thecontacts, the orders placed and the number of newbusiness contacts at Heimtextil 2012,” said DetlefBraun, Member of the Executive Board of MesseFrankfurt, summarising the opinion of exhibitorsas reflected by the end-of-fair poll. “Germanexhibitors were particularly pleased with theirresults – no less than 84 per cent said theirparticipation had been successful to verysuccessful, a significant increase on the previous

year (77 per cent). Even higher was the level ofsatisfaction on the visitor side, where 92 per centsaid they were very satisfied with the range ofproducts on show and the course of business atthe fair.”

Against this background of orders, productlaunches and new contacts, the sector neverthelessnoted that many delegations from the distributivetrades, the handicrafts trade, design and industrywere no longer as big as in the past. This reducedthe number of visitors by a good five per cent toaround 70,000 (2011: 73,071, audited by theSociety for the Voluntary Control of Fair andExhibition Statistics (FKM)). “The decline isprimarily due to a fall in numbers from thoseEuropean nations that have been particularly hardhit by the debt crisis, especially Italy, Spain,Greece, France and The Netherlands,” explainedDetlef Braun.

In contrast to this, there was an increase in thenumber of visitors from the Russian Federation,

the Middle East, Turkey and the Far East. Thebiggest visitor countries after Germany were Italy,Turkey, China, Great Britain, the USA, France,Spain, the Russian Federation, The Netherlandsand Poland. Altogether, the proportion of visitorsfrom outside Germany amounted to 64.2 per cent(2011: 65.4 per cent).

Despite the prevailing economic uncertainties,positive signals came from Germany. Both visitorsand exhibitors are beginning the new business yearwith a positive outlook. The good prognoses arebased on a sales increase of 4.6 per cent at the endof 2011, the result of growth in domestic demand.And, say the experts, demand will remain at a highlevel this year. Home and household textiles, e.g.,bed, bathroom and table linen, textile floorcoverings, curtains, decorative fabrics andwallpaper, are particularly popular among Germanconsumers with demand having risen steadily sincethe 2009 financial crisis to a level that is higher thanthat for entertainment electronics.

Heimtextil showcases innovationsand latest trends in home textiles

HEIMTEXTIL 2012

The international trade fair for home and contract textiles presented an impressive spectrum of floor coverings,decorative and furnishing fabrics, blinds and sunshades, as well as wallpapers and wall coverings of all kinds.

With 2,634 exhibitors from 61 countries, the number ofmanufacturers of home and contract textiles takingpart this year was up 2.4 per cent



WORKING IN PARTNERSHIP with ZwickauerKammgarn GmbH and Helmut PeterseimStrickwaren GmbH in Mühlhausen,researchers at the Hohenstein Institute inBönnigheim have developed an innovative newtype of yarn for knitted textiles. The new hybridyarn HP2G combines the benefits of syntheticfibres with those of wool fibres. Thiscombination guarantees excellent thermalinsulation, while sweat is transported awayefficiently and the textile dries quickly.Furthermore, the yarn is not prone to pilling,which is bound to please consumers. This allmeans that fashion garments made of the newhybrid yarn are easier to look after, do notsuffer from felting and look as good as neweven after being worn for a long time.

Project leader Martin Harnisch from theHohenstein Institute sees excellent potential forthe newly developed yarn, especially forsportswear: "Garments made from this yarnhave very good sweat management propertiesand at the same time provide excellent thermalinsulation. Being properly protected from thecold is really important, especially during restperiods after strenuous physical activity, whenit has been found that the body loses a great

deal of heat. Endurance athletes such asrunners and cyclists will particularly benefitfrom this innovation because they will find thatit helps prevent the unpleasant sensation ofcooling down and shivering after exercise, whatis called 'post-exercise chill', which can bedamaging to the health."

Even for less strenuous sports such as golfor hiking, or in certain jobs, clothing made fromthe newly developed yarn has great potential.

Knitted textiles have the ability to trap agreat deal of air, which, when the fibres arecombined with wool, gives good thermalinsulation and enables them to absorb a greatdeal of moisture. However, when the moisturecontent reaches about 33 per cent, which iseasily achieved during physical exertion, purewool does not feel comfortable any more. Theliquid perspiration cannot evaporate from theskin and is absorbed by the wool fibres. Verydamp wool creates an unpleasantly wet, coldsensation on the skin.

This is where synthetic fibres can come inuseful. The advantage of them is that theyusually do not absorb water, or only very little.This means that they can wick the liquid sweataway from the skin.

The innovative hybrid yarn HP2G combinesthe positive characteristics of synthetic andnatural fibres: it absorbs sweat quickly andtransports it away from the body. That keeps thewearer as comfortable as possible, with theirskin feeling dry. During light exercise or after along period of strenuous physical exertion, italso offers the necessary thermal insulation,and so keeps the body temperature constant.

The industrial companies involved in theproject have created a new and complex textilefamily based on the functional yarn, rangingfrom jackets and pullovers to functionalaccessories such as caps, hats, wrist-warmersand gauntlets. Thanks to these functions andproperties, using the new yarn for the uniformsof care home staff or other high-performanceprofessional clothing meets a requirement fromthese users which could previously not besatisfied. Functional clothing such as this,which is positioned between sportswear andclassic fashionable knitwear, is not currentlyavailable on the market.

Production and processing technologieshave been adapted to suit the newlydesigned yarn and enable problem-freeseries production.

The international trade fair for home andcontract textiles presented an impressive spectrumof floor coverings, decorative and furnishingfabrics, blinds and sunshades, as well as wallpapersand wall coverings of all kinds. Equally, the latesttrends in bathroom fabrics and, indeed, for bed andtable linen were on display. Once again, it was thesustainably manufactured products that grabbed allthe attention at the event.

They were first to be seen in clothing fashions,now they have found their way into the home:colours such as plum, lime, raspberry red,aubergine or a pithy green are in frequent use forhome textiles. Green was definitely the up-and-coming colour at Heimtextil, often combined withaqua, maize, beige or curry tones. The moreelegant the fabric, the darker the colours, whichare then, however, brightened up with subtlelustres to the material or with interwoven special-effect threads and, as a result, shimmer discreetly.Natural colour combinations such as brown,greige and beige or contrasts such as black andwhite are used mostly for fabrics with bold, clear

patterns. Weave structure is more sophisticatedthan it has ever been. Decorative ribbing,embroidery, crushed finishes, ornaments, pleats,interwoven decorative yarns or tiny ribbons givematerials greater definition. It is particularlyfabrics with a uniform colour, or tone-in-tonepatterning that make a stronger impression withtheir structured relief, without appearing todominate the visual effect of the room. The pattern

palette for fabrics ranges from floral decorationand stripes of all sorts and kinds of width to hugeblossoms and geometrical designs (up to 30centimetres wide). Decoration is, however, on thewhole, more delicate and the colour combinationsmore conservative than in previous years. Variousnatural and synthetic yarns are often mixed insubtle and sophisticated ways to achieve particularoptical effects. ❑

HEIMTEXTIL 2012

It was the sustainably manufacturedproducts that grabbed all theattention at the event


Innovative yarn for sport and leisure wear

Brother Internationale Industriemachine GmbH................................................ 5

Erhardt+Leimer GmbH......................................................................................11

Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC 2012) ................................9

Industrial Development Corporation ................................................................15

Loepfe Brothers Ltd..............................................................................................2

Oskar Dilo Maschinenfabrik KG ........................................................................7

Stäubli AG ..........................................................................................................23

Trutzschler GmbH & Co. KG ............................................................................24

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www.staubli.com

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