SUMMER 2009 _ ISSUE NO. 2 _ www.adventuramag.ca SPICE UP YOUR SUMMER FREE [ GEAR ] [ DESTINATIONS ] THE MYSTERIES OF BON ECHO A day in the life of a Certified Hawaiian Dude
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SUMMER 2009 _ ISSUE NO. 2 _ www.adventuramag.ca
SPICE UPYOUR SUMMER
FREE
[GEAR][DESTINATIONS]
THE MYSTERIES OF BON ECHO
A day in the life of a CertifiedHawaiian Dude
JAPANESE AND A WHOLE LOT MORE !
SMARTCHOICEFOR THE ENVIRONMENT!Imagine a vehicle that emits close to zero smog-forming tailpipeemissions. Yet it does not require an external power source,complicated power storage devices or exotic fuel blends.This vehicleboasts: no drop in power or performance.This vehicle requires: regular unleaded fuel, no premium price, no special maintenance routine and no unusual maintenance schedule.
PZEV: to reduce smog-forming tailpipe emissions
2009 OUTBACK PZEV PLUS
$34,145Freight and preparation extra
• Affordable and immediate environmental benefits
• No alternative fuels or power sources required
• Uncomplicated technology
• No special maintenance requirements
• Top-notch performance and safety standards
• Reliable Japanese engineering
• Uncompromising, hassle-free ownership
Advantages
*From
* Manufacturer’s suggested retail price for the 2009 Outback PZEV Plus (9D1PZP). Freight and preparation ($1,495.00), inspection, registration, insurance, consultation of the RDPRM and dealer fees as well as taxes are extra. Registration fees(depends on purchaser’s particulars) and insurance extra. Recyclage Quebec, specific duty on new tires included. Dealer may sell for less. † 5 star front and side-impact ratings for the 2009 Outback. U.S. Government star crash-test ratingsare part of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA’s) New Car Assessment Program (www.safecar.org). A five-star crash-test rating is the highest government rating for a) Driver and right front seating positions in frontalcrash tests and b) Front and rear seating position in side-impact crash tests.
Quebec Subaru Dealers’ Associationwww.quebec.subarudealer.ca
The affordable, no-compromise, eco-friendly alternative.
THE
To learn more about this new technology, visit subaru-pzev.ca
5-StarCrash Test Rating†
National Highway TrafficSafety Administration’s (NHTSA’s)
New Car Assessment Program
SUBMO-4391_Adventure_Mag_ENG 08/05/09 13:50 Page 1
AdventurA _ Summer 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 3
7 10 12Contents // Summer 2009 / No. 2
[04] edItOr’SnOte
[06] FIeLdrePOrt• Learn a paddle sport • Top summer activities to add to your agenda • Sun protection tips and products • Clever clip-on gadgets • New books for lakeside reading
[10] dAYtrIPPer• Windsurfing at Pointe-Claire • river-surfing in the ottawa river • rock-climbing in the Niagara region • road-cycling on the Humber Trail
[12] WeeKendGetAWAYthemysteriesofBonechorevisiting childhood haunts in Southern ontario
[14] LIvInGLArGe•Gores Landing • Gatineau Park • Georgian Triangle
[16] GLOBetrOtterthetideis(really)HighA day in the life of a certified Hawaiian dude
[20]tHeneedFOrSPeedCinematographer Todd Grossman on the art of action filmmaking
[24] GeArGoGoGadgetsTechnology for the rugged outdoors
(don’t)CatchSomeraysSun-protective clothing
[28] POWertrIPSingle-SpeedrevolutionAn adventurous couple does Cuba by bike
[30] LAStCALLthe“Sherpa”
14 16 28
JAPANESE AND A WHOLE LOT MORE !
SMARTCHOICEFOR THE ENVIRONMENT!Imagine a vehicle that emits close to zero smog-forming tailpipeemissions. Yet it does not require an external power source,complicated power storage devices or exotic fuel blends.This vehicleboasts: no drop in power or performance.This vehicle requires: regular unleaded fuel, no premium price, no special maintenance routine and no unusual maintenance schedule.
PZEV: to reduce smog-forming tailpipe emissions
2009 OUTBACK PZEV PLUS
$34,145Freight and preparation extra
• Affordable and immediate environmental benefits
• No alternative fuels or power sources required
• Uncomplicated technology
• No special maintenance requirements
• Top-notch performance and safety standards
• Reliable Japanese engineering
• Uncompromising, hassle-free ownership
Advantages
*From
* Manufacturer’s suggested retail price for the 2009 Outback PZEV Plus (9D1PZP). Freight and preparation ($1,495.00), inspection, registration, insurance, consultation of the RDPRM and dealer fees as well as taxes are extra. Registration fees(depends on purchaser’s particulars) and insurance extra. Recyclage Quebec, specific duty on new tires included. Dealer may sell for less. † 5 star front and side-impact ratings for the 2009 Outback. U.S. Government star crash-test ratingsare part of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA’s) New Car Assessment Program (www.safecar.org). A five-star crash-test rating is the highest government rating for a) Driver and right front seating positions in frontalcrash tests and b) Front and rear seating position in side-impact crash tests.
Quebec Subaru Dealers’ Associationwww.quebec.subarudealer.ca
The affordable, no-compromise, eco-friendly alternative.
THE
To learn more about this new technology, visit subaru-pzev.ca
5-StarCrash Test Rating†
National Highway TrafficSafety Administration’s (NHTSA’s)
New Car Assessment Program
SUBMO-4391_Adventure_Mag_ENG 08/05/09 13:50 Page 1
4 _ AdventurA _ Summer 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca
EDITOR’S NOTE
_Talk about cabin fever. As my summer holidays get closer, I’m really starting to get anxious. The sun is streaming in through my office window. If only I were outside basking in it… But there’s still a lot of work to finish up, so playtime is on hold. I have plans to do so many things – and, the best part is, none of it will make a huge dent in my budget.
The global recession certainly has its perks: a round-trip airline ticket from Toronto to Iceland costs less than $800. And Mexico is slashing their prices in an effort to lure back tourists. In the United States, the government is rushing to inject money into every sector of the economy. In various places, those green dollar bills are needed to rescue various state parks on the verge of closure.
Like our own provincial parks, state parks are the entry point for discovering the joys of nature. Closer to urban centres and better equipped than the big federal parks, they attract hordes of people. For June, online reservations to rent campground space in California’s state parks were up by 23 percent. But the state government is considering a new mandatory $10 yearly pass to raise the $300 million it needs to avoid shutting the doors of some of their parks. In Illinois, governor Pat Quinn reopened seven state parks that his predecessor closed in 2008. In the state of Washington, a new $5 per vehicle tax has just been enforced to raise $28 million a year for its 47 state parks.
The situation is quite different in Canada. Last May, the minister responsible for Parks Canada announced a two-year price freeze on entry fees for national parks and historic sites. The objective: “To help
families enjoy these attractions and give a boost to the Canadian tourism industry.” So the cost to get into La Mauricie National Park stays at $7.80 per day until April 2011. This was happy news for the tourism industry. And for me too: remembering my past trips to the countryside of Forillon or Mingan Archipelago almost makes me want to revise my plans and go back there. Meanwhile, Sépaq (Quebec’s outdoors and nature network) hasn’t announced any rate increases, which is currently $3.50 per day. In Ontario, the standard $2 per day
rate for the 329 national parks also appears unchanged.
Will saving a few bucks here and there make you change your summer plans? Probably not. But some people still find it a shame that they’re forced to pay for what essentially should be free. In a country with a long, romantic history of the outdoors, nature is what defines us.
Nevertheless, admission fees shouldn’t cool our urge to take advantage of our natural resources. We’re better off shelling out a few dollars so we can continue to enjoy and maintain our beloved parks. And there are still plenty of places to have fun without paying a single penny (many of them are in this issue).
There is nothing more precious than the time we spend savouring the beauty of Mother Nature. It is a less expensive vacation choice indeed, but one filled with more adventure than you could ever imagine. Dive into this edition full of ideas, and start making plans for the summer season now! You’ll be basking in the great outdoors before you know it.
Christian Lévesque, Editor [email protected]
Summer 2009 :: Vol. 1 :: No. 2
Publisher: Stéphane Corbeil ([email protected])
editor: Christian Lévesque ([email protected])
senior editor: Patricia Gajo ([email protected])
Contributors: Brian Berusch, Donna Carter, Gina Desjardins, Bryen Dunn, Mark Edward Harris, Ilona Kauremszky, Alison Lawler-Dean, Maureen Littlejohn, Dana McNairn, Doug Wallace and Jennifer Weatherhead.
translator: Terry Scott
Cover Photo: A couple kayaking together in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. © David Nevala / Aurora Photos
advertising: Jonathan Marcil, Sales Manager [email protected] / 514-277-3477 ext. 28
Marie-Christine Hallé, Sales Consultant [email protected] / 514-277-3477 ext. 27
distribution: Isamie Dufour, [email protected] / 514-277-3477, ext. 30
subsCriPtion: Marie-Michèle Gobeil, [email protected] / 514-277-3477, ext. 21
subsCriPtion / home delivery rates: 1 year / 4 issues: $18 • 2 years / 8 issues: $32 (taxes, handling and mailing costs included) Please make cheque payable to Groupe Espaces Inc and send to the address listed below.
design: Sève création, www.seve.ca
Website: www.adventuramag.ca
editorial dePartment: 514-277-3477 | [email protected]
mailing address: Groupe Espaces Inc 911 Jean Talon St. E., Suite 205 Montreal (Quebec) | H2R 1V5
Editorial submissions and press releases must be sent solely by e-mail. Circulation: 60,000 copies distributed to outdoor enthusiasts everywhere. ADVENTURA is published four times a year by Groupe Espaces Inc.
artiCle submissions ADVENTURA welcomes and acknowledges all article and photograph submissions. Contact the Editor to discuss. ADVENTURA is not responsible for articles, photographs or any other material sent to its attention. If you do not keep a copy of ADVENTURA magazine for your personal archives, please send it to a friend or recycle it. The opinions expressed are by the author, and are not necessarily shared by Groupe Espaces Inc. Some of the activities reported on in ADVENTURA could entail injury risks for anyone trying to do such activities. ADVENTURA and its reporters, contributors, photographers and other staff members do not recommend the practice of these activities by anyone that does not have the required skills and technique. ADVENTURA is not responsible for the information contained in the advertisements. Any reproduction of material published in ADVENTURA is prohibited without the expressed consent of Groupe Espaces Inc.
Great OutdOOrs Great Bargain
IN a cOuNTry wITh a lONg, rOmaNTIc hIsTOry Of ThE OuTdOOrs, NaTurE Is whaT dEfINEs us.
www.outaouaisgetaways.com1-800-319-3806
Gatineau Park GetawayIncludes: one night, dinner, breakfast, gratuities for the meals and the use of the outdoor hot tub. Starting at $152 per person. Taxes not included.
Steam Train ExcursionStarting at $199 per person. Taxes not included.
Golf in the HillsTwo nights Starting at $329 per person. Taxes not included.
60, Mill Road, Wakefield819-459-1838 // 1-888-567-1838www.wakefieldmill.com
Wakefield Mill Inn & Spa ★★★★
Enjoy the tranquility of nature or experience a wide range of outdoor activities in Gatineau Park. Located just a few minutes from Parliament Hill, this protected natural area is a great place for camping, swimming, hiking and biking.
Get ready for a memorable experience!
819-827-2020 // 1-800-465-1867www.canadascapital.gc.ca/gatineau
Gatineau Park
This breathtaking site is located on the shores of the CoulongeRiver, only 90 minutes from Gatineau-Ottawa. Six comfortablecottages can welcome up to 45 people. Ideal for a romanticstay, a family getaway or a group gathering.
Outdoor-activity packages are available.
New: « outback » nature rides.
Les Cabines de la Chute ★★★
538, La chute Road, Mansfield & Pontefract(Fort-Coulonge)819-683-3469 // 1-866-883-3469www.lescabinesdelachute.com
AMAZING YOUIT’S IN OUR NATURE
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www.outaouaisgetaways.com1-800-319-3806
Gatineau Park GetawayIncludes: one night, dinner, breakfast, gratuities for the meals and the use of the outdoor hot tub. Starting at $152 per person. Taxes not included.
Steam Train ExcursionStarting at $199 per person. Taxes not included.
Golf in the HillsTwo nights Starting at $329 per person. Taxes not included.
60, Mill Road, Wakefield819-459-1838 // 1-888-567-1838www.wakefieldmill.com
Wakefield Mill Inn & Spa ★★★★
Enjoy the tranquility of nature or experience a wide range of outdoor activities in Gatineau Park. Located just a few minutes from Parliament Hill, this protected natural area is a great place for camping, swimming, hiking and biking.
Get ready for a memorable experience!
819-827-2020 // 1-800-465-1867www.canadascapital.gc.ca/gatineau
Gatineau Park
This breathtaking site is located on the shores of the CoulongeRiver, only 90 minutes from Gatineau-Ottawa. Six comfortablecottages can welcome up to 45 people. Ideal for a romanticstay, a family getaway or a group gathering.
Outdoor-activity packages are available.
New: « outback » nature rides.
Les Cabines de la Chute ★★★
538, La chute Road, Mansfield & Pontefract(Fort-Coulonge)819-683-3469 // 1-866-883-3469www.lescabinesdelachute.com
AMAZING YOUIT’S IN OUR NATURE
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FRField Report
JUNEJune 14 // BINBROOK TRIATHLON/DUATHLON &
GIVE-IT-A-TRI Hamilton, Ontario
Go for the triathlon or duathlon in the heart of Hamilton at the Binbrook Conservation Area. For first-timers, the Give-it-a-tri is a mini-triathlon to wet your feet. hsbctriathlon.com
June 20 and 21 // INTERNATIONAL DRAGON BOAT RACE FESTIVAL
Centre Island, TorontoCelebrate 21 years of Dragon Boat races in Toronto. Teams from Canada, Europe, Asia and the U.S. are scheduled to compete. dragonboats.com
June 20 and 21 // NAUTICAL WEEKEND | Mont Tremblant, QuebecDiscover the latest in nautical lifestyle, from the latest equipment to special activities held at the Centre Nautique Pierre Plouffe. tremblant.ca
June 28 // WELLAND TRIATHLON/DUATHLON
& GIVE-IT-A-TRI Welland, Ontario
If you’re looking for a course without a lot of hills, twists and turns, this is for you. This mainly flat course goes southwest towards the Town of Wainfleet. hsbctriathlon.com
JUlyJuly 4 // MEECH LAKE TRIATHLON
Gatineau Park, QuebecSwim, bike and run through Gatineau Park in this high-endurance race. The course is intense with a 1200-m swim, 25-km cycle and a 6.4-km run to finish off the day. meechlaketri.ca
July 4 TO 11 // GREAT WATERFRONT TRAIL ADVENTURE
Southern OntarioBegin your eight-day waterfront adventure in Niagara-on-the-Lake and cycle around 730 km of Ontario’s waterfront and through 41 communities ending in Rivière Beaudette along the St-Lawrence River. You can travel at your own pace and enjoy the beautiful surroundings along the way. waterfronttrail.org
July 5 // GREATER KINGSTON SYDENHAM TRIATHLON,
DUATHLON AND RELAYS Kingston, Ontario
This is the perfect event to try your first triathlon or duathlon thanks to a supportive crowd and smooth tracks. More experienced athletes can challenge themselves with speed. somersault.ca
AGENDAby Jennifer Weatherhead
PICK YOUR PADDLELearn to row, kayak, dragon boat or canoe this summer by Alison Lawler-Dean
Take advantage of Ontario’s warm lakes and rivers. From a couple hours a week to a romantic weekend escape, here are four unique experiences that offer great upper-body workouts (with little impact on the joints), all the while strengthening your mind-body connection.
Learn to rowThe second oldest rowing club in Canada offers adult Learn-to-Row courses throughout the summer just off Toronto’s western beach. With seasoned professionals training nearby (the Men’s Eight team won gold at the Beijing Olympics), you’ll be inspired to perfect your stroke. The intro course goes over all the boat basics, starting you on a machine before you hit the water. The end of season regatta gives you the chance to challenge fellow newbies, then socialize at a posh BBQ on the clubhouse deck overlooking Lake Ontario.
WHAT: 12 hours of classes on weekday evenings or weekends
WHERE: The Argonaut Rowing Club at the Toronto Western beaches waterfront
WHEN: Regularly from April 25 to Sept. 8
WHO: Beginner
EXTRA: Make use of the club fitness equipment, change rooms, and spectacular waterfront deck. Graduates earn a $125 discount off annual membership fees their first year
COST: $250 per person
416-532-2803 • argonautrowingclub.com
Learn to KayaKBreak up two days of scenic kayaking along the Grand River with an amorous stay at a quaint, country B&B. The tour begins with a quick kayak lesson, rounded out with hiking and cycling. Complete your day of exploration with dinner at a local restaurant in Paris, Ont., before retiring to bed. With both calm bird-watching stretches and challenging rapids, this overnight trip provides an extremely unique learning experience to be shared with your better half. Each package includes kayaks, equipment, accommodation, all meals, and instruction.
WHAT: Romance for Two 2-day tour
WHERE: Grand Experiences Canoe & Kayak Adventures at the Grand River, near Paris, Ont.
WHEN: April to October
WHO: Beginner to intermediate, couples
EXTRA: Grand Experiences also offers ORCKA certification courses for those looking to brush up on strokes and complete an Eskimo roll
COST: $295 per person
888-258-0441 • grand-experiences.com
Learn to Dragon BoatOne of the largest dragon boat clubs in Canada also holds a Guinness Book of World Record for the longest distance traveled in a dragon boat: 150 km (quite a stretch from the usual 200-2000 m competition courses). With this membership, you’ll be paddling with a group of 20, which will help develop precision and encourage teamwork. This is one sport that takes dedication to master, so join the PDBC early to make the most use of the 40-plus practices throughout the session.
WHAT: Seasonal membership, includes two weekly practices and three regattas
WHERE: Pickering Dragon Boat Club at the Frenchman’s Bay Marina in Pickering, Ont.
WHEN: April 19 to Sept. 13
WHO: Beginner to intermediate. Advanced training programs also available
EXTRA: Big banquet at the end of the summer is included
COST: $420 for season
pdbc.ca
Learn to CanoeTake in the majestic beauty of Algonquin Park. Canoe and portage skills are taught along the way through a series of “teachable moments” on the water. Each tour is adjusted to the weather and the group’s skill level. A classic, slow-paced Algonquin experience, the Journey of the Voyageur trip, includes two nights of camping accommodation, fresh meals (including s’mores!), all equipment except sleeping bags, park permits, and the services of a wilderness guide. Bring your camera as you may just spot a moose!
WHAT: Journey of the Voyageur 2-night camping and canoe trip
WHERE: Craig Lake in Algonquin Park
WHEN: June to early October
WHO: Beginner to intermediate
EXTRA: Upgrades to a rustic log cabin or cushy cottage accommodation are also available for those who don’t want to rough it after a day of paddling
COST: $395 per person (eight person maximum), return transportation from Toronto is available for $175
800-794-9660 • voyageurquest.com
© N
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June 19 TO 21 // DRAGON BOAT RACE FESTIVAL
Mooney’s Bay Park, OttawaModelled after a Chinese tradition dating over 2,400 years, the largest Dragon Boat Festival in North America brings in approximately 5,000 paddlers from across Canada. The non-stop action promises new races every nine minutes. Free for spectators. 613-238-7711 • dragonboat.net
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JULY 9// GRAVENHURST TRIATHLON WEEKEND
Muskoka Wharf, Gravenhurst, OntarioStart at the Muskoka Warf and work your way through some of the most beautiful spots in the Muskoka region. multisportcanada.com
JULY 18// WHY JUST RUN THE PARK
Wilket Creek Park, Toronto Don ValleyGet in touch with nature in the city. This adventure takes you through trails in Sunnybrook Park, Wilket Creek Park, E.T. Seton Park and the Thomas H Thomson Nature Trail. With challenging climbs, winding trails and routes along the Don River, discover a side of Toronto you didn’t know existed. toronto-orienteering.com
JULY 19// ACURA TORONTO 10-MILER AND 5K
Distillery District, TorontoThe 10-mile course is actually part of the Toronto Waterfront Marathon and it’s flat and fast, taking you through much of Toronto’s shoreline. The 5K follows along the same route with a turnaround loop part way through. canadarunningseries.com
JULY 26// BALLA FALLS TRIATHLON
Balla Falls, OntarioA 750-m swim, 30-km cycle and 7.5-km run in Jaspen Park make this an intense workout and a favourite triathlon among many Ontario athletes. Many competitors return year after year, but newbies are welcome. hsbctriathlon.com
HELLO SUNSHINE
1. The sun’s reflection on water magnifies UV exposure. When boating or canoeing, don’t be shy with
the sunscreen, and reapply it often.
2. When sweat on your brow starts to drip into your eyes, lotions or creams on your forehead may seep into your eyes, making them itchy and red. Avoid this by not applying any product above your eyes (use a hat and wraparound glasses instead!) or make sure you choose one that is non-irritating. If the package says “for face,” it’s usually a go.
3. No matter how high your SPF is, re-slather your sunscreen every two hours. When swimming, choose a waterproof option or else your sun-block product will go down the drain – or down the river.
4. If you’re embarking on a long trek, the best sunscreen is protective clothing, a physical barrier that tells the sun who’s boss. [For ADVENTURA’s picks for protective clothing, see “(Don’t) Catch Some Rays” on page 26.]
Most of you already get that the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) number on sun protection products measures how long you are protected from UVA and UVB rays. But for those who were absent that day, if you normally burn after ten minutes of exposure, a product with SPF 30 protects you for roughly 300 minutes or five hours. This may seem like a long time (enough to run a marathon for some!) but don’t overlook your unique environmentwhen being active outdoors.
4Sun Tips
For Nature LoversToronto-based Matter Company recently launched Outdoors, an all-natural line aimed at people who love to bask in Mother Nature’s playground. To keep those harmful rays at bay, reach for the Sun Protector, an SPF 30 moisturizer for face and body that naturally protects with Shea butter and St. Johns Wort extract. It’s also water and wind resistant with no froufrou perfume but a clean, herbal scent.Matter Company Outdoors Sun Protector moisturizer | 80 g | $21 |mattercompany.com
For Sport LoversNo more white, pasty creams. Coppertone’s new Sport SPF 50 sunscreen is virtually invisible. The new bottle is so smart it even sprays upside-down making sun protection a snap – great for those hard-to-reach places like your back or behind your knees. Use it for all your summer fun activities because it’s sweat, water and sand resistant. A twist and lock cap puts an end to messy surprises in your beach bag. Coppertone Sport sunscreen | $10 |177 ml | coppertone.ca
ONCE BURNED,TWICE SMART?
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MULTI-DAY TRIPSMagpie River Adventure - 8 Days
Raft the Romaine - 8 Days
preview the adventure online atwww.borealriver.com
www.borealriver.com 3495 Vendome Avenue Montreal, Quebec H4A 3M6 (866) 242-9383
BOOKSby Doug Wallace
LOOK MA, NO HANDS! Clever gadgets that clip directly onto your pack will never leave you hanging. by Alison Lawler-Dean
CAFFEINE HIGHNo need to fuss with a flip- or screw-top bottle – this old-fashioned mug has a modern twist. The tongue-in-cheek design features a carabiner handle, making it as easy to find as it is effortless to dry. And each lightweight cup is made of double-walled stainless steel to keep your coffee hot and your water cold.Made by Humans mug | $13 | madebyhumans.net
KEEP TRACKYou’ll never get lost in the woods again with this personal GPS. Set the location before you leave camp (or the boat dock or even the parking lot), and when you’re ready to head home, the high-sensitivity GPSreceiver and self-calibrating digital compass will guide you back with ease or help you chart your way through three unique, stored locations. The built-in loop makes attaching it to a D-ring or lanyard a snap. Alternatively, its slender shape means you can hide it in your pocket. So no one will be the wiser but you! Bushnell BackTrack GPS navigation system | $95 |bushnell.com
ROCK OUTLong gone are the days of the ghetto blaster on your shoulder. This wireless, palm-sized speaker streams your fave tunes directly from your Bluetooth-compatible phone and also lets you chat on the phone hands-free. It may be small, but this lightweight sound system doesn’t compromise on big, clear sound – enjoy stellar treble and rich bass up to 10 m away. The splash-proof shell also makes it the smart choice for water excursions. Sony Ericsson MS500 portable speaker | $90 |sonyericsson.com
Halfway to Heaven: My White-knuckled – and Knuckleheaded – Quest for the Rocky Mountain High
Lonely Planet’s The Best in Travel 2009: 756 of the World’s Hottest Trends, Destinations, Journeys and Experiences
Forget Me Not: A Memoir
Field Report
AugustAugust 2 // MUSKOKA ROCKS ROAD RACE | Minett, OntarioRun through the challenging rocky terrain and see the beautiful Muskoka country. And all for a good cause – proceeds support Camp Oochigeas, a summer camp for children living with cancer. muskokarocks.ca
August 8 // ALBION HILLS RACE | Albion Hills, OntarioEnjoy either a 5.5-km sport or 11.5-km endurance course through the wilderness of the Albion Hills Conservation Area. The single-track trails are mixed with some stairs and boardwalks, and a few lookout points for a breather with a nice view. 5peaks.com
August 8 And 9 // BRACEBRIDGE TRIATHLON WEEKEND
Bracebridge, OntarioHeld at Annie Williams Park, choose from sprint races on day one to more intense courses on the second day. Ironman wannabes can go for the Half Iron Distance Triathlon, which challenges with a 2000-m swim, 90-km bike ride and 21.1-km run. multisportcanada.com
August 12 // 5K ENDURANCE RACE
Centre Civique dollard-des-Ormeaux, MontrealPart of the Greater Montreal Running Circuit, this race goes through the city streets around Centennial Parc. Shorter 1-km and 2-km routes are also available. circuitendurance.ca
August 14 tO 16 // TRIADVENTURE
Lake Couchiching, Lake simcoe and torontoPrep for the final race – a 3-km swim (or 15-km run), 15-km canoe, and 140-km cycle – with organized training sessions and social meeting. All proceeds go to programs supporting those impacted by HIV/AIDS in Africa. 416-524-7656 • triforafrica.org
August 15 And 16 // TRIATHLON WEEKEND | toronto IslandThe perfect city triathlon takes place on the islands giving you an escape from the city without going too far. Not quite ready for the real deal? This year organizers are adding a duathlon as a trial run, so it a whirl! On the first day, there will also be a women’s only 10K run. multisportcanada.com
August 22 And 23 // THE CORNWALL HOSPITAL TRIATHLON
Cornwall, OntarioThis triathlon offers something that many don’t – traffic free routes through-out the downtown core of the city for the two days. That means you can work your way through this safe and challenging course with out any car worries. cornwalltriathlon.com
August 23 // BIG GUN RUN 5K | Kingston, OntarioThis 5-km foot race around Point of Fort Henry also gives participants a bit of a history lesson as they chart past historic properties and heritage sites in Kingston. Proceeds support the Easter Seals. runkingston.com
August 29 // COBOURG TRIATHLON WEEKEND | Cobourg, OntarioIf a hilly terrain is what you’re seeking, the challenging Northumberland Hills are calling your name. Sign up for a sprint triathlon/duathon or get into an Olympic state of mind with the Olympic distance. multisportcanada.com
AGENDA
Be A pArt of AdventurA’s AgendA Are you organizing a special outdoor activity or event this coming fall season? Let us know the details and you may see yourself in our next issue. [email protected]
continued from page 7
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DAYTRIPPER
ACTIVITY: CYCLINGby Bryen Dunn
The Niagara Escarpment extends from the southern tip near Niagara Falls to the tip of the Bruce Peninsula in Northern Ontario. At Rattlesnake Point, located on the Milton “outlier” (a detached part of the Escarpment), both novices and experts can grab onto the sheer, jagged limestone cliffs along the trail of the Conservation Halton park. Named after the magnificent glacial path that snakes through the escarpment, The Point rises approximately 91 m above the surrounding countryside, giving amazing
views once you’ve scaled your way to the top. Plus there’s plenty of space to enjoy a picnic after a climb.
The 264-hectare park has approximately 1 km of exclusive rock-climbing routes in this multi-pitched crag. For those who haven’t climbed outdoors before – or those who need a little refresher – nearby schools can hook you up with lessons and gear for the day. Schools also offer intermediate and adventurous classes. Otherwise, bring your own gear since most places do not offer rental equipment.
TORONTO
TORONTO
The Humber Valley Trail heads due north from Lake Ontario, connected via the waterfront Martin Goodman Trail. The mostly paved path meanders along the Humber River, passing through various parks and forests. Some of the highlights include picnic areas overlooking a series of weirs (low dams that look like mini-waterfalls), the famous Old Mill Inn, and James Gardens with its manicured lands of botanical beauty.
The route is dubbed “The Path of the Hurricane,” and historical information along the way will spin the wheels of passing history buffs. Several plaques and monumental markers indicate how high the water levels reached when Hurricane Hazel made its way upstream along the banks of the Humber back in October 1954. This winding trail system can be followed some 15 km northwest toward Pearson International Airport.
A round-trip excursion can easily be done in a couple of hours, or a leisurely paced half-day outing can also be planned with stops along the way for lunch or wildlife watching. Canada geese and beavers are common sights, and the occasional fox or deer can be spotted
in the woods. Definitely a lesser-known route worth exploring involves taking the west side going north and the east bank coming back south, providing a full-circle opportunity to ride without backtracking.
Level: ModerateDistance: About 29 km one-way or just under 60 km round-trip. There are small on-road sections at Stephen Drive, Old Mill, Old Dundas, Weston Road and Albion. But everything else is on off-road, paved, multi-use pathways. Newly installed signage ensures a well-marked out route.Season: Spring through fallOther Activities: Running, hikingAccess: From Queensway Avenue or Martin Goodman Trail along the waterfrontCost: FreeTip: There are a couple opportunities to grab snacks and beverages along the way (such as at the convenience store at the Eglinton Avenue crossway), but packing your own is likely the best option.For more:toronto.ca/cycling
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ACTIVITY: ROCK CLIMBINGby Jennifer Weatherhead
Level: Beginner to intermediate: cracks range from 5.4 to 5.11 (with a majority between 5.4 to 5.7).Season: All year; most popular during the summer months. Classes from April to OctoberGetting there: From Highway 401, take Highway 25 south to Steeles Avenue, go west on
north; Rattlesnake Point is 1 km north of Derry Road on top of escarpment.Cost: $5.50 entrance fee for Conservation Halton parks, $97.50 per day for guided lessons and gear.Rental:For more:
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ACTIVITY: RIVER SURFINGby Alison Lawler-Dean
Surfing the Ottawa River may seem like a last resort for those with no access to the coast, but the river actually provides an awesome advantage that the ocean can’t: an extra-long ride.
Ocean surfers are grateful for any wave lasting 60 seconds. On the Ottawa, with currents flowing all around, you can coast for up to 10 minutes. The experience is like being on a liquid treadmill where you surf in virtually the same place while the water rushes around you – a kind of “standing wave.” To sweeten the swell, the Ottawa River surges up to 10 ft every day, all year round.
What began as an offshoot of a popular Montreal activity near the Expo ’67 site has become a dedicated community in its own right. Ottawa River surfers are skilled and diehard, many braving the water even in chilly temps. For those new to the scene, sit back and observe first. If no other boarders are out, ask rafters and kayakers about the conditions before jumping in, as this is definitely an extreme sport.
There are several breaks along the river, but Pont Champlain is a good starting place. Hot spots include “The Wall” near the Champlain Bridge, “Sewer Wave” just off the point south of Rue Bourget (don’t be misled – it’s perfectly clean), “Remmick Wave” just west of Lemieux Island, and the more advanced “Deschênes Ruins” south of Deschênes. It’s easy to paddle out to all of these locations, and all are accessible from downtown with nearby parking. There may be no sandy beach, but you’ll definitely get stoked. Totally!
Level: Intermediate to advancedAccess: Several downtown points along the Ottawa RiverOther activities: Kayaking, raftingSeason: Waves break all year round, though most Ottawa surfers head out during spring and early summer when the water is high.Cost: FreeGear: Wear your wetsuit, a lifejacket and a helmet. Imagine Surf Company (imaginesurfboards.com) builds boards specially made for river surfing.Safety: This ride is not for the faint of heart. Wear appropriate gear and be safe.For more: Hit the forums imaginesurf.com for insider information and tips.
OTTAWA
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ACTIVITY: WINDSURFINGby Jennifer Weatherhead
MONTREAL
With five windsurfing areas around the city of Montreal (Oka, Vaudreuil, L’Anse à l’Orme, Baie des Brises and Pointe-Claire), locals have plenty of options to wet their feet. But during the season, which runs from late April to the end of October, Pointe-Claire remains one of the most popular spots for those seeking a wind thrill. Landmarked in Montreal’s West Island by an oft-photographed windmill, this little nook on the north shore of Lac St-Louis has notably been home to many Canadian Olympians in swimming and diving.
Having some surfing experience is a good idea, and you’ll need to bring your own equipment, as there are no rental places nearby. But beginners need not be steered away. You can take lessons at L’École de voile de Lachine (across the lake), and since windsurfing is generally an easy sport to get the hang of, you’ll be catching the wind in no time. The waves are manageable closer to the shore where you can glide along the water, making it perfect for beginners.
With south and southwest winds, the shallow Pointe-Claire bay offers moderate waves once you get out into the usual 20-knot winds, so the more experienced can try a few jumps or bumps. Pros will head to the west side of the bay where the water is deeper and the winds are stronger. There are also several kiteboarders in this area should this newer sport be more appealing to you.
Level: Varies, beginner to expertSeason: April to OctoberOther activities: Kiteboarding, canoeing, kayaking, dragon boating
Getting there: From Montreal, take the Cartier exit off Highway 20, straight down to Bord-du-Lac (Lakeshore). Turn right. Then make a left at St-Joachim Street and follow directly to the parking area.Gear: It’s BYOG onlyLessons:sessions include equipment rental and one-on-one
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Back to confront her childhood fears, our intrepid writer revisits one of Southern Ontario’s most alluring parks – and the stomping ground of her favourite bogeyman.by Ilona Kauremszky
The Mysteries of Bon Echo
AdventurA _ Summer 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 13
1 800 665-6527 • ParcsQuebec.com
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This summer, experienceParc national de la Jacques-Cartier
This summer, experience
Discover the breathtaking sceneries of Parc national de la Jacques-Cartier, located less than 30 minutes away from downtown Québec City.
• 100 km of hiking trails• 26 km of river• 20 Discovery activities• 5 Ways to spend the night: Huttopia tents, yurts, camping,
rustic camps and cabins• 1 Unforgettable stay!
Burrowed in our tent, my other half, Stephen, kills the resident flashlight and darkness
descends. We hear nothing but a serenade of crickets. I’m on the brink of a dream, but my eyes spring open as a loud crunch comes from a nearby branch. With clenched fists I huddle inside my sleeping bag, closing my eyes tight like a scared child in my manmade cocoon. Here I am once again in Bon Echo Provincial Park, where the mysteries and monsters of my childhood continue to lurk.
The next morning I am told it was a black bear. Having breakfast with my beau, we count our blessings and laugh about the episode over a lumberjack meal of fried eggs and bacon. For urbanites, this land o’ lakes territory about a three-hour drive northeast of Toronto has always been a tonic from the big city. Located on the southern cusp of the Canadian Shield, the area features mixed deciduous-coniferous forests, with a predominance of beautiful white pine and cedar. But the real majesty belongs to the 100-m-high Mazinaw Rock that soars over southern Ontario’s deepest lake, Lake Mazinaw.
The Algonquins paid homage to the sacred spot. In the 1800s an American dentist, Dr. Weston Price, loved the rock’s tranquility so much he bought it, constructed a log house and named his piece of heaven Bon Echo (“good echo” in French) because of the acoustic quality. Flora MacDonald Denison, a renegade feminist and businessperson, was a subsequent owner, converting the lodge into an inn that attracted artists, clairvoyants and feminists.
Today, remnants of this period linger, but the single biggest attraction remains “Canada’s Gibraltar” or “Old Walt,” so named by Denison to commemorate the poet Walt Whitman, some of whose most famous words are chiselled into the hard granite.
Now armed with a backpack, sunscreen, sport sandals and shades, we shimmy our canoe into the deep-blue waters and glide by lichen-covered rock protrusions. As a schoolgirl I had learned of the ancient pictographs
of Bon Echo, and now here we were hoping to catch a glimpse of the mysterious paintings as we retrace the route of the Aboriginals. Archaeologists remain baffled as to how these 260 pictographs – first described by J.S. Hargen in 1848 and considered the largest collection in North America – got here and what they represent. Above us, rock climbers from the Alpine Club of Canada stick to the cliff-face like bees to honey and a peregrine falcon soars on the updrafts. Ochre-red illustrations of wild animals parade along the long flat face. “C-o-o-l,” I utter, glancing at these faded vestiges glimmering in the summer light just above the waterline.
We park on the shoreline and hike the Cliff Top Trail (accessible by boat only), a short intermediate 2-km hike, which includes a staircase that leads to the top of Mazinaw Rock. The reward is an awesome panoramic view. Around the shimmering waters, there’s a thick swath of green that meshes with the greystone shoreline. No wonder, I realize, the Group of Seven hung out here.
That night, our neighbouring campers gather around the fire to share some stories. Over roasted marshmallows and s’mores, we hear how one couple embarked on the physically challenging Abes and Essens Lake Trail that snakes through brush and rock and comprises three loops of four, nine and 17 km in length. There are also campsites along the trail. Another couple tell how the guided hike with a park interpreter revealed a world of rare prairie warblers, loons and woodland hawks.
But the tale I am waiting to tell revolves around the Mazinaw Monster that haunted my camping trips here as a little girl. “Locals here swear the best time to view the monster – with its three humps, something like Scotland’s Nessie – is when a thick steamy cloud hovers above the lake.” Half of my audience gasps, the other half laughs. But then a minute of silence creeps in, with all eyes staring at the crackling fire in disbelief.
With full moon above and the fire’s cinders shedding chalky bits, we retreat to our tents for another night in Bon Echo. Before I zip up the bag, I think I hear another uninvited visitor by the tent. The flashlight is raised once again. Maybe this time the mystery will be solved.
“My foothold is tenon’d and mortised in granite. I laugh at what you call dissolution. And I know the amplitude of time.” From Walt Whitman’s “Song of Myself,” inscribed on a rock at Bon Echo
SleepMazinaw campground has 400 sites organized into four main sections. Walk-in campsites are good, but book early as these sites are highly sought-after. We stayed at Sawmill Bay, which is suitable for campers with tents and no electrical hookups. It was good on privacy, had full shade and was far away from the more frequently trafficked toilet and tap areas. We were walking distance to Lake Mazinaw and the trails and could park directly at the site. For total seclusion, choose from one of the 25 canoe-in campsites located on Joeperry Lake. For hikers who wish to overnight along the journey, five sites are available on the Abes and Essens Lake Trail.
eATNo ice, pop or chips are available in the park, so be sure to stock up before you go. If you find you forgot something, there’s a General Store at the Shell Gas Station at the crossroads of Kaladar. The town of Northbrook also has a Foodland.
plAY• Canoeing and kayaking – Rentals are available at Mazinaw Rock. View the rare
pictographs, the largest collection in North America. You cannot see these unusual paintings any other way.
• Hiking – There’s the short 1 km Creek Trail, better for new hikers and families, as well as the 2-km Bon Echo Creek Trail. More moderate treks include the 1.4-km High Pines Trail and the 2-km Cliff Top Trail. The latter is accessible by canoe or kayak only. Serious hikers can head to the multi-loop Abes and Essens Lake Trail for longer marches and overnight camping.
• Swimming – Splash around the three beaches: South, North and New. There’s no lifeguard on duty, but there is a life jacket loaner program with a $25 deposit.
• entertainment – There are nightly programs at the amphitheatre throughout the summer.
GeTTING THeReBon Echo Provincial Park is located north of Napanee, Ontario, along Highway 41. • From Toronto – About a three- to four-hour drive northeast. Take Highway 401 east
to Highway 37 toward Tweed/Belleville onto Provincial Route 37, then proceed to the TransCanada Highway exit onto Flinton Road and drive onto Highway 41 to Cloyne.
• From Montreal – About a 5-hour hour drive west. Take Autoroute 20 west to Highway 401 west, then take CR-41 (exit 579A) toward Kaladar and continue on Highway 41 to Cloyne.
SeASONThe park is open from April 24 until Thanksgiving. Best time to go is during the summer for an urban getaway or in fall for the explosion of colours.
FOR MORe 613-336-2228 • mazinaw.on.ca/fobecho • ontarioparks.com
Ilona Kauremszky is a contributor to Michelin Green Guide Ontario 2009, writes about Ontario getaways for MyOntario magazine and is the editor of mycompass.ca, a travel e-zine.
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GORES LANDING by Donna Carter
Tucked in the heart of the scenic Northumberland Hills, 90 minutes northeast of Toronto, Gores Landing is a small rural Ontario community where there’s a single general store, no stoplights and no sign of big-city hurry and hustle. Hugging the shoreline of Rice Lake, its waterfront location, together with a surrounding landscape of rolling hills and forest, make it a perfect place in
summer for hiking, biking, canoeing and kayaking. Come back in the winter for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and dogsledding. northumberlandtourism.com
Built in 1902 as a grand summer home, the Victoria Inn (rooms from $80 ) is by far the community’s most
prominent building. Perched on a gentle hillside overlooking the lake, this
architectural gem that looks like a mini-castle has 11 rooms, each decorated in a different style. Be sure to ask for the Turret Room, an octagonal lakefront suite with a wooden tent ceiling. All bedrooms feature cozy duvets and ensuite bathrooms; three rooms have wood-burning fireplaces. While the inn’s exterior bears all the qualities of an elegant manor house, the interior blends the casual atmosphere of a summer home mixed with the grace of a bygone era. Indulge in the private in-room massage treatments ($70/hr.) or couples packages( ), which include accommodations, meals and three hours of in-room massage.
The Victoria Inn ($32 four-course menu) offers outstanding country cooking in a dining room where every table has a view of the lake. The inn has a long-standing reputation for excellent cuisine. Breakfast, lunch and dinner menus feature local fare such as artisan cheeses, organic greens, lamb, beef and bison. On the edge of the village, Pitcher’s Place (
) advertises “mighty-fine dining,” which is probably why it’s popular with both visitors and locals. Housed in a Tudor-style building, the restaurant has a menu including everything from sandwiches to seafood, steaks, homemade pies and Ontario pickerel dinners.
HIKING - Rice Lake Conservation Area has a 2.2-km double-looped trail. Ganaraska Forest has 300 km of trails with numerous access points. Northumberland Forest has over 40 km of trails.
CANOEING AND KAYAKING - A host of scenic coves, bays and small islands make Rice Lake perfect for canoe and kayak trips. The Victoria Inn provides guests with complimentary canoes and paddles.
BIKING – Cycle the scenic 87-km Rice Lake Ramble Trail. You’ll enjoy views of Rice Lake from wonderfully quiet roads. Or make a trip to Serpent Mounds Park( ), where nine ancient burial mounds house the graves of early Native people. This site has great historical significance and is the only one of its kind in Canada.
Canot-camping La Vérendrye
www.canot-camping.ca
Mid-may to mid-september (819) 435-2331Mid-september to Mid-may (514) [email protected]
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A 9-to-5 workweek can take its toll on your body and mind. Every now and then you deserve a relaxing break and a little luxe. Consider one (or all) of these three mini-getaways to help you recharge your batteries. Take in the lazy, hazy days of summer, but also throw in your favourite outdoor activities. Add a top-notch meal, a relaxing massage and a comfy bed in a cozy room, and you’ll be as good as new.
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GATINEAU PARK by Maureen Littlejohn
Ottawa has a dream backyard. Gatineau Park, a mere 15-minute drive northwest of downtown, is 361 sq. km of scenic forests, lakes, trails and lookout points. Canada’s 10th prime minister, Mackenzie King, played here in the 1930s and built a number of cottages that are open to the public. Most people, though, visit the area to get physical, not political – in spring and summer it draws hikers, trail bikers, campers and paddlers. $8/car for day pass, $9 for
After a day of cycling or hiking through hilly terrain, a restful stay at the luxurious Wakefield Mill Inn & Spa (
) is in order. The inn is in the quaint town of Wakefield, which borders the north end of the park. Originally built as a flour mill in 1838, it now offers 27 rooms furnished with fireplaces and Jacuzzi tubs, and a dining room with French and Québécois cuisine. Nestled next to a 28-ft waterfall, the inn’s five-room spa offers a signature Le Jardin body wrap ( ) with seawater and essential oils to revitalize the skin.
Park guests typically stop at the Mackenzie King Tearoom () at Moorside, one of King’s former
cottages. After scones and sandwiches you can stroll through the estate’s gardens, which feature ruins that King collected from Westminster Abbey. If Earl Grey isn’t your cuppa tea, there are a number of nearby restaurants. Café Pot-au-Feu (
) is a riverside establishment in a former train station. They serve delicious stick-to-the-ribs fare such as tourtière and stroganoff. In the evening, the pub at the Black Sheep Inn ( )is the place to go for libations and first-rate performers.
CYCLING – There are 90 km of glorious trails, and during the summer the main road is closed to cars on Sundays until 11 a.m., so cyclists rule. Mountain bikes can be rented at the Philippe Lake campground general store (
).
HIKING – Explore 165 km of trails, some multi-purpose for cyclists, as well. The short but scenic 2.5-km King Mountain Trail has a spectacular view of the Ottawa River Valley 300 m below, and the 2.5-km Pink Lake Trail skirts an emerald-green lake. Despite its colour (from algae that live near the surface), it takes its name from the Pink family who used to own property in the area.
SPELUNKING – Otherwise known as “cave exploring.” Flashlights and water shoes are needed along the 12-km Lusk Cave Trail.
PADDLING – Canoe, row or kayak on La Pêche Lake, Philippe Lake and Meech Lake (the famous spot where the country’s 10 premiers played constitutional tug-of-war in 1987). The first two offer rentals ( )
SWIMMING – Philippe Lake has four good beaches. When the three at the north end get crowded, head to the south end where there’s a quieter spot.
GEORGIAN TRIANGLEby Maureen Littlejohn
Planking down snowy slopes may be the first image that comes to mind when you think of Collingwood. But the area known as the Georgian Triangle, including the towns of Creemore and Stayner, offers plenty to do in the summer, too. There’s hiking, biking, sailing, swimming, treetop walking and spelunking. Added highlights include an annual Elvis festival, acclaimed brewery and outdoor, Scandinavian-style spa.
On the edge of Pretty River Provincial Park, near Stayner, awaits the PrettyRiver Valley Country Inn (
). Fireplaces – for those cool nights – grace each of the 11 guest rooms, suites and two-storey “crofts” (honeymoon-style hideaways with Jacuzzis and balconies). Mingle with other guests in the Great Room, float in the saltwater pool or soak in the hot tub that overlooks an outdoor terrace. Here, you can also hang out with the locals since the inn is home to reindeer as well as Percheron and miniature Icelandic horses. An environmentally friendly property, the inn’s garden and apple orchard use no pesticides. And don’t sleep in too late: Delicious country breakfasts are included in the price of a room. To refresh, revitalize and detox, head to Scandinave Spa (
). The steam bath and sauna, followed by plunges in outdoor cold and hot water pools, take care of aches and pains and get the blood moving.
Collingwood’s Stuffed Peasant () is a little 28-seater that’s been hopping since it
opened last November. The interior décor is sleek and modern and the menu features comfort foods such as cassoulet (lamb shank, sausage, pancetta and white beans), steak frites, roasted chicken breast and lasagna. On weekends, it’s best to call for a reservation. In Stayner, the Fud Main Street Bistro (
) is also less than a year old but is steadily building a reputation for its delicious homemade soups, massive half-pound burgers, steaks and cheesecake.
BIKING – 60 km of multi-use trails lace through Collingwood on the Collingwood Trail Network ( ), and bikes for all terrains can be rented at Little Ed’s Ski & Bike Shop (
) at Cranberry Resort.
HIKING – Pretty River Valley Provincial Park (com) is 1,032 hectares in size and is one of the highest points on the Niagara Escarpment. Marked trails include the Bruce Trail, which passes through the park.
KAYAKING – Paddle the picturesque coastline of lower Georgian Bay to beaches, islands and shipwrecks. The Mary Ward lies at the bottom of Nottawasaga Bay, northeast of Collingwood. For rentals, try Gyles Sails & Marine (
) in Thornbury, about 20 km east of Collingwood.
BEER TASTING – Creemore Springs Brewery () offers daily free tours and tasting sessions. Fans are
called Frothquaffers.
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don’t know where I was exactly, perhaps sitting in front of the television or flipping through a magazine while waiting for a flight. But when I saw that image of a shaggy haired
dude strutting down a golden beach with a surfboard under one arm, the snapshot burned as much on my brain as it did on my retina. To me, surfing meant freedom. And I wanted to identify with that feeling—even if only once.
Prior to my move from the cement canyons of the city to the watery world of O'ahu, I was under the impression that once you stepped off the plane, a beautiful Polynesian wahine would put a lei around your neck, a kiss on your cheek, and you were handed a surfboard. Off you went to oceanic nirvana. Sorely, I was mistaken. Only after months of paddling and arm strengthening exercises, was I finally able to get to where the waves were actually surfable, let alone be in position to catch one. But physical setbacks aside, I soon discovered that the key element missing in my surfer fantasy was the lifestyle that comes with it.
Enter Ty Gurney. Having managed a number of respected surf schools in Hawaii, as well as "charged" (surfer lingo for successfully surfing) infamous big wave breaks like Pipeline and Waimea Bay, he set out to do the unthinkable: Gurney opened his own school that showed people the "stoke" of surfing by experiencing it first hand.
My 24-hour initiation started with Gurney pulling in to my driveway in a classic Jeep Wrangler. "How's it, bro?" he hollered. Although a tad shy of his 40th birthday, my surf guru looks closer to 30. In sticking to the "man code," I will say this: a certain surf instructor was recently the subject of a Heather Locklear movie where an older woman falls for a toned, fit and much younger hunk. While I personally wasn't swooning, I was happy to see that we both were shoeless, wearing board shorts and tank tops. Surfer regalia were acceptable: Check!
The time was shortly after sunrise; there were a pair of longboards strapped firmly to the roll bar, towels and a cooler rode in the back. On the way down the hill, the lesson began with a little history, both geographical and personal. Gurney informed me of the breaks in front of the hill where I resided; how they differed in the 1950s from now, and why. He told
me about a girl he used to date in my neighborhood. And then finally, that the surf was up "in country,” surfer slang for "The waves were breaking on the North Shore."
With the early morning trade winds rustling our hair, we careened up the Pali Highway. After a thorough breakdown of the warrior games the ancient Hawaiians used to play on the slopes of the Pali, tests of strength and the like, I was informed that we'd be starting our "Surf Safari" with a visit to one of the most sacred places on all of O'ahu—to pay tribute to the Gods—and ask for a safe day on the water. If it meant not getting eaten by sharks, punched out by locals or stung by a box-jellyfish, I was all for it.
Pu'u O Mahuka is both the largest and oldest heiau, or sacred temple, on O'ahu. Perched on a 300-foot cliff above the North Shore's Waimea Bay—where the largest waves in the world have been known to break—the site was clearly erected to face extreme, natural power. It was here that the ancients would sacrifice humans before embarking on voyages or setting out to battle neighboring clans. Today, it's a peaceful place to meditate on the flurry of activity that awaits budding surfers or schoolboys. And while today the waves weren't the epic 60-footers that occasionally roll through the bay below, they were topping 25 feet, enough to shake the ground with a thundering clap each time they collapsed on the beach.
"Am I getting in there?" I asked, recalling the monstrous three-footer the first (and last) time I attempted to teach myself how to surf.
He smirked, nodding his head assuredly: "Same ocean. Different spot. Not far from here, though." As we drove down the ridge towards the shoreline, each breaking wave sounded like a building falling over. I must have said that out loud. "A building wouldn't have a shot," said Gurney. "But if you surf it right, you will."
I began to search my memory: Did I sign some sort of release form? Before I can answer my own question, we're rounding a steep embankment and looking at a craggy, protected bit of shoreline called Shark's Cove. I decide not to ask why it's been named after the animal that is rumoured to snack on surfers, and follow Gurney to the water's edge with snorkel mask and fins in hand.
"First we see what's under the water before we learn to glide over it," he insists, slipping in to the relatively tranquil sea and vanishing underwater, not to resurface for 15 meters. "Get in here!" I did as I was instructed. Sharp coral reef gave way to azure water spotted with round coral head, each teeming with brightly colored fish that nipped microscopic nutrients off their surface. I followed my guide as he rounded the cove towards what seemed like open ocean—and prime feeding area—for a swimmer much bigger (and hungrier) than I. We then swam underneath a wall of rock and resurfaced in a tide pool cut out like a cave, only accessible from underneath. The light was a tranquil blue, since it could only emit from under the seawater. It was calming.
Our next stop was important in a quintessential surf day; sustenance at a local eatery with a heavy side
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If it meant not getting eaten by sharks, punched out by locals or stung by a box-jellyfish, I was all for it.
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PLAN AHEADGETTING THERE: From Toronto to Honolulu, Hawaii, is approximately 11 hours. Air Canada (aircanada.ca) and West Jet (westjet.com) both fly from Toronto to Honolulu with a stop in Vancouver.
TIME CHANGE: 6 hours
SEASON: While the air temperature fluctuates a mere eight degrees or so throughout the year, ocean water temperatures and, more importantly, the size of the waves change dramatically. Hawaii’s “winter season” lasts from November to April; this is when waves on the North Shore of O’ahu can reach heights of 10 m and up. The Surf Safari package with Gurney can happen all year round. But if you have your heart set on dipping into the North Shore waters, then best to go between May and October.
COST: A full-day lesson with Surf Safari is $325 per person, inclusive of lunch and equipment. TyGurneySurfSchool.com
GEAR: Gurney provides a rash guard or wet suit top, as well as all surf and snorkel equipment. Items you should bring are sunblock, towel and change of dry clothes. An underwater camera is highly recommended. For an extra fee of $225 Gurney can arrange for a photographer-videographer.
EAT: Cholo’s Homestyle Mexican. cholosmexican.com
STAy: The contemporary Waikiki Parc Hotel is just across the street from the Ty Gurney Surf School. waikikiparc.com
of surf banter. Since the town of Haleiwa (a breeding ground for the North Shore surfer community) is limited in its choice of restaurants, we head to Cholo's Homestyle Mexican, which has all the necessary accoutrements; that is, inexpensive yet hearty food, outdoor seating, margaritas, a wait staff that's easy on the eyes, and plenty of people to ask where the best conditions were at any given moment.
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Parc national d’Aiguebelle, M
athieu Dupuis, S
épaq • Cyclopes photo
This summer live
le parc national d’Aiguebelle
Reservation or information1 800 665-6527 • parcsquebec.com
www.abitibi-temiscamingue-tourism.org1 800 808-0706
Huttopia tentsVacation in a cottage or rustic campStandard camgrounds13 kayak-camping sitesClose to 60 km of hiking trailsDiscovery activities for all
Before leaving, I am introduced to a professional surfer, Keala Kennelly, and spy another (thanks to Gurney) named Shane Dorian. I feel my cool quotient rising after meeting two individuals who make a living off paddling in to waves. (It also helped my ego that they had both ordered the same burrito I did.) I catch myself walking with a new gait.
It was the tail end of the heavy North Shore swell season, yet my guide assured me there was a spot on this verdant coast that would suit my level of surfing without the need of a helicopter rescue. As we crossed back over the steel bridge that led us in to Haleiwa, Gurney careened the jeep in to Puena Point and began unloading the 10-foot boards from above
us. I spied a steady stream of shallow, rolling waves that crept into the bay, surprisingly gentle in nature compared to the Goliaths that were pummeling the shoreline four miles down the road.
After a briefing of our landmarks—essential surfer knowledge starts with knowing where you entered the water, and deciding where you want to position yourself in the water—before you actually get in the water, said Gurney. Laying on the longboards parked securely in the sand, we practiced paddling and the "pop up," where I go from horizontal to standing in one swoop.
Next thing I know, we are both paddling into the direction of the sun. I squinted to minimize the glare of orange light, grabbed the board tightly on either side, and smiled as I welcomed an inbound wave over my body. It was as if the seawater had come and stripped off the veneer of "a regular guy." I was
now that person in the advertisement—paddling in to the unknown, the uncharted.
In the next hour I accomplished many things I had never before. I paddled harder than I did in 60 minutes than perhaps my entire varsity season of swim team in high school (which was proven by my inability to lift my arms for the following two days). I stood up on a surfboard. In a wave. That was moving. Fast. I also fell with reckless abandon, many times, and laughed each time—after I resurfaced and spit a half-gallon of seawater out of my mouth.
But one thing was certain: For an hour I was not only free; I was a surfer. And there was no turning back.
Brian Berusch is an American freelance writer based in Honolulu. You can read his monthly newsletter at BonHawaii.com.
I catch myself walking with a new gait.
creo
20 _ AdventurA _ Summer 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca
Tianmo, China – Seated inside a moving van, Grossman shelters himself from the heat and protects his camera from blowing sand while shooting for The Mummy: Tomb of the Dragon Emperor
FEATURE
AmericAn cinemAtogrApher Todd Grossman gives his professionAl perspective on The arT of acTion filmmakinG And shAres exclusive insider Advice on shooting your next outdoor Adventure.
The Need for
© J
asin
Bol
and
by Mark Edward Harris
Todd Grossman was a pre-Teen when he started making home movies of himself and his friends performing skateboarding tricks. Now one of Hollywood’s go-to guys for capturing action on video, he is known for making a tough job even tougher by jumping right into the action rather than capturing scenes from the sidelines. With an impressive portfolio of fast-paced sports coverage, TV commercials and blockbuster films, Grossman’s signature cinematic style is as dynamic as his globetrotting career.
AdventurA _ Summer 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 21
© D
erek
Beu
mer
From pro Athlete to pro FilmmAker“I started shooting video around the age of 10, mostly skateboarding back then. I began competing a couple years later and by the time I was 15 I got sponsored and was competing all over New England. At 18, I moved to L.A. since it was such a major hub of action sports and it was the place for moviemaking. When I got here, I turned pro in the inline world and started studying film at the same time. So I was earning a degree at USC while simultaneously doing pro vert and street competitions as a skater [an inline extreme sport that one performs in half pipes, going from a horizontal plane to a vertical ramp]. In 1998, I was fortunate to do stunts in movies and was ranked eighth in the world on the pro circuit. I also opened my production company during my sophomore year.
As I was finishing college, I decided to focus my life entirely on filmmaking. That’s where my passion was. I knew I could compete for a few more years but competition takes a lot of focus and you need to devote yourself full-time.”
liFe in the FollowcAm lAne“I was the first followcam for ESPN in the X-Games and Gravity Games. In the world of action sports, followcam is a very specific technique where an athlete on the same or similar apparatus follows another athlete with a camera. The followcam shot is the quintessential identifying mark of action sports. It’s more than a simple helmet-cam because you’re operating the camera to make sure the shot stays good; adjusting focus and iris, changing the lens, zooming, panning and tilting. The challenge is how do you follow an athlete, get the shot, and stay out of their way? You need not only camera knowledge, but knowledge of the sports and athletes. These days however I followcam less for competitions and concentrate more on commercial and movie work.”
hollywood cAllingThe first movie I was ever involved in camera-wise was the Rob Cohen film, xXx, with Vin Diesel. It was a very lucky break. I had heard they were working on an action sport-meets-James Bond film. As an inspiring filmmaker myself, and action sport athlete, I thought, “This is perfect.” Long story short, I was fortunate to have friends at ESPN who recommended me to Cohen and I was hired to shoot the documentary on the film.”
extreme environments“Earlier this year I spent two weeks shooting the Iditarod in –40 F. The finish line for this famous annual dog sled race is in Nome, just south of the Arctic Circle. I prepped by doing a great deal of
continued on page 21
ACTION FILMMAKING 101TODD’S TOP 3 TIPS
1 Better safe than sorry“To do a followcam – and I can’t stress this enough – it’s really critical that your abilities be on par with whatever you’re filming. [Grossman typically followcam-ed on a skateboard or inline skates, but keep in mind he was also a pro skater.] From a safety standpoint, you also need to know what you’re doing before you start chasing someone with a camera at high speed. Talk with your athlete beforehand to know where they’re going and how fast they’re going to go. Then walk the track and look for rocks, cracks, and whatever might be an issue or danger to you. Trust me, just stay within your limits and be careful.”
2 Practice makes perfect “When I’m followcam-ing, I’m not looking at the camera, I’m looking at what I’m pointing it at. That takes practice. If it’s your first time, it’s not a bad idea to begin followcam-ing on foot. Imagine pointing the camera centered on what you think is the person’s waist and roll for 30 seconds. Then play it back and check to see what is the actual center of your frame. If it’s a little higher or a little lower, you can adjust it accordingly. Eventually, the camera will become an extension of yourself.”
3 Getting the right gear“I recommend most small pro/consumer grade HD cameras. If possible, get one with three CCDs versus one. These are chips that focus on specific colours: red, green and blue; giving you higher quality and a better depth of field – overall, a better image.”
“earlier this year I spent two weeks shooting the Iditarod in –40 F. The finish line for this famous annual dog sled race is just south of the Arctic Circle."
online research, as well as asking a local guide a multitude of questions: "Will Solar Cells be needed to charge batteries? [No, they had generators.] How strong are the winds?” [Gusts can get up to 35 MPH.] And most importantly, “How long can human skin be exposed before frostbite sets in?" [Some days it was only a matter of minutes.]
The extreme cold and wind required that the camera be not only covered but also kept warm. I placed hand-warming packs (like the ones skiers use) in my jacket pockets for the spare batteries, as well as inside the camera's jacket. Batteries die quickly in cold weather. I then addressed the challenge of keeping myself warm while remaining free to shoot. Besides donning complete arctic gear, I wore insulated glove liners beneath a thick pair of mittens. The liners allowed me to shoot with great dexterity, and the mittens kept my hands warm between shots.”
From cold to hot“When I was working on The Mummy: Tomb with the Dragon Emperor, we shot about a month and a half on the edge of the Gobi desert in Tianmo, China. Some of those days were extremely hot. I was shooting with
a Sony EX-1 HD camera, which shoots to solid-state media cards as opposed to tape or film – so there was no real physical film to melt. The only issues we ran into were protecting the camera from blowing sand, and condensation from extreme temperature variation. In high heat, you need a place to go – be it a car, room, or even a tent – to get you out of that temperature. But when you go from hot to cold, or cold to hot, humidity can happen. I had to watch that moisture did not form inside my lens creating a fog. Many times I had to let the camera acclimate before I could start shooting.”
the book deal My book, Shooting Action Sports: The Ultimate Guide to Extreme Filmmaking, is a soup to nuts bible on the tools and techniques of making action sports content. With a strong focus on shooting, it also covers prepping, editing, and distributing projects. I’ve also included real world examples and tips to getting the best footage possible. The book is a way I can share the knowledge I’ve gained through the many successes and failures I've encountered in the field.”
Shooting Action Sports: The Ultimate Guide to Extreme FilmmakingTodd Grossman | $44.50 Focal Press
October 21 – 24, 2009Montreal | Canada
Tour of 9 cities in Québec | October and NovemberThe MONTREAL INTERNATIONAL ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL is renewed!
CALLING ALL FILMMAKERS AND SPEAKERS
The TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL is looking for films and conferences on adventure and great journeys
for its 2009 programming.
Proposal SubmissionConferences | June 30
Films | July 31
[email protected] | (514) 277-3477 #34
FVA_PUB_ADVENTURA_ETE9 28/05/09 16:18 Page 1
SPORT SPECIFIC TRICKS OF THE TRADEWater sports: “If you’re always in water, a splash resistant camera is a good option. But if you’re going to use your camera for many things and not just water, then you probably want a normal camera. There are two ways to go. First, a poor man’s option: double bag it. And I mean quite literally put it in two plastic Ziploc bags and seal it tight. You’ll get some distortion shooting through the plastic – keep it right up to the lens – but it’s better than your camera being destroyed. If there’s no chance of submerging it, cut a small hole in the plastic bag and tape it around the edge of the lens so that it is exposed, allowing you to have a crystal clear shot. The second option is to buy or rent an underwater camera housing. It’s pricier and can be a little bulky, but will give incredible shots.”
rock climbing: “You can get very creative with a POV (point-of-view) shot from a helmet-cam. If you’re climbing next to a friend, it’ll leave your hands free for holding the rock or ropes. If you’re shooting on solid ground and want some really steady shots but don’t have a tripod, take a small rope about as high
as you are tall and tie a washer or stick to the bottom. Then tie the top end to the camera. When you step on the washer or stick and lift the camera up until the string is pulled taut at eye level, the tension will create a stability in the camera.”
mountain biking: “Cameras generally come with a standard zoom lens and really the most dynamic shots tend to be extremes at each end of that. With the widest possible one, put the camera down on the ground and allow the bike to shoot right past you – careful not to get too close! With the longer end of the lens, try getting further away; you can make it look like the person’s going really fast. A follow cam is also going to be pretty spectacular, but beginners should probably stick to helmet-cams. You’ll need your hands for the handlebars.”
long distance running: “You’ll see a lot of wheelchairs at film schools. Not because there are a lot of injuries, but because they allow you to followcam and create the illusion of a dolly shot. You’ll need someone to push you, but it can make for very dynamic shots. In the end, it’s your creativity that will give you the most compelling shots.”
continued from page 21 VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF ACTIONOne of the first things you learn in film school, says Grossman, is coverage, coverage, coverage. In other words, don’t just shoot from one angle. Here are the basics:
Start wide to establish geography“For sports where actions are repeated, start wide and get a master shot that gives your audience a sense of environment. I like to cover the action clean – meaning head to toe with no obstructions – then get a few more artistic shots like shooting through a foreground element like a fence or bush.”
Zoom in for frenetic coverage“Think of the movie The Bourne Identity, that handheld kind of intense action camera. A few of these exhilarating shots can come in handy later when you're trying to really show speed or intensity. A followcam also works nicely for showing speed.”
Get ready for your close-up“If the action is predictable enough, get right in there for an extreme close-up – like the gears spinning on a mountain bike or a carabineer locking in on a rock climber’s harness – with a wide-angle lens or even a fish eye. This can also be a great time to play with slow motion if your camera does that. Also use your stock lens, zoomed-in a touch to give you that clean close-up of the action, like that of an athlete’s face during the height of a difficult moment. The goal here is to capture the sport from not just a conventional perspective but to capture the emotion of it.”
Experiment with contrast“Aim for static and moving shots juxtaposed together for dramatic effect. You want hills and valleys. If you followcam, the camera might be shaky. Balance that out with steady shots: put the camera down on the ground, lock it off on a tripod, put a fish eye on it and get a complete, clean shot of the an action.”
For more • ToddGrossman.com • ShootingActionSports.com
creo
October 21 – 24, 2009Montreal | Canada
Tour of 9 cities in Québec | October and NovemberThe MONTREAL INTERNATIONAL ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL is renewed!
CALLING ALL FILMMAKERS AND SPEAKERS
The TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL is looking for films and conferences on adventure and great journeys
for its 2009 programming.
Proposal SubmissionConferences | June 30
Films | July 31
[email protected] | (514) 277-3477 #34
FVA_PUB_ADVENTURA_ETE9 28/05/09 16:18 Page 1
24
GEAR GO GO GADGETSAction and outdoorsy types have specialized techno-needs. Here are the latest gizmos to soup-up your stride.by Gina Desjardins
Rugged Mobile PhoneMotorola just launched a collection of four active lifestyle cellphones. This one caught our attention with its rubbery, textured grip (a handy no-slip surface when you’re high above the ground) and walky-talky good looks. It has survived U.S. military standards for dust, drops, vibration, humidity, extreme heat or cold, and rain. The audio player with speakers lets you listen to your fave tunes when you’re chilling out in your tent. It also features a 1.3 megapixel camera for preserving all your latest adventures, showing your pals at home, “the proof is in the phone.” iDen i580 handset | From $200 | motorola.com
Sporty Watch with GPSGarmin’s newest sport watch is waterproof up to 50 m and boasts a battery that keeps going (and going and going) for up to 20 hours. A high-sensitivity GPS tracks time, speed and distance, as well as pace, elevation, heart rate and calories burned. Wearers can choose sound or vibration to signal changes, and an automatic data transfer can be synchronized wirelessly to both PCs and Macs so you can compare notes with a web community at GarminConnect.com. Joggers and cyclists should get a kick out of the optional foot pods and cycling speed/cadence sensor, while triathletes will want the waterproof heart sensor (there is no underwater transmission of data) and optional quick release and bike mount, making it easier and faster to move the watch from wrist to bike.Garmin Forerunner 310XT watch | $480 | garmin.com
Mini Eco-LanternWhen packing for a wilderness vacation, the words compact and lightweight rank high on any camper’s checklist. This portable light is all that – and environmentally friendly to boot, thanks to its self-charge technology, which stores kinetic energy the old fashioned way via a built-in hand crank. Sixty seconds of winding give you seven minutes to one hour depending on the selected brightness setting. Ultra-bright LEDs (light emitting diodes) render up to 100,000 hours of burn time, roughly 11 years of continuous use. Now, that’s a lot of time in the woods. Bonus: the sturdy handle makes it ideal for hanging on a branch or in the tent, while the rubber feet are great for gripping irregular surfaces.Freeplay ML-1 lantern | $55 | freeplayenergy.com
Waterproof Heart MonitorTracking your pulse while you train keeps you from over- or under-training. Swimmers, unfortunately, get the short end of the stick because heart rate monitors don’t typically transmit data underwater – that is, until the AquaPulse arrived. Hook it onto your goggles and clip the infrared sensor to your earlobe. The latter calculates the heart rate by measuring the number of light pulses due to capillary blood flow in the skin. Using Bone-Conduction technology – unveiled with the Finis SwiMP3 player – sound vibrations are communicated through the temple bone to the inner ear. Finis AquaPulse heart rate monitor | $170 | finisinc.com
25
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Go Anywhere BinocularsThese new binoculars combine Olympus’ strength in optics quality and durability with Coleman’s tradition of fine outdoor products. Offered in dark, camouflage green, they have a high 8x magnification, multi-coated lens with UV protection, and a twist-up eyecup. Conveniently compact and lightweight, they are also fog-, dirt- and waterproof (up to one metre), in other words, ready for all your rugged kayak, climbing and hiking treks. Available in August.Olympus Coleman-edition Magellan 8x25 WP binoculars | $130 |olympuscanada.com
Rough and Tumble CameraThis stylish point-and-shoot offers more than meets the eye. Described as “virtually indestructible;” it is waterproof up to 10 m, shockproof up to 2 m, freeze proof up to -10 C, and crushproof up to 100 kg. You can swim, hike and ski with it – even accidentally sit on it! It’s a bit heavier than other compact cameras, but worth the worry-free advantage. This camera also comes with a 12 mega-pixel sensor and 3.6x wide optical zoom. The Dual Image Stabilization is a must for active photographers, as it avoids picture blur caused by camera shake. Lastly, when it’s too cold outside to take off your mitts, you’ll be grateful for the Tap Control option that lets you snap your photos with a little tap instead of the push of a button. Olympus Stylus Tough-8000 camera | $500 | olympuscanada.com
Bright and Light headlampPrinceton Tec is the only outdoor lighting manufacturer to use Rebel LEDs by Phillips, known for being the lightest, brightest and smallest light emitting diodes on the market – there are four LEDs making it super powerful. This featherweight headlamp (barely there at 78 g) runs on three AAA batteries, with 74 to 164 hours of burn time depending of the beam setting. Designated as waterproof Level 1, this means it’s resistant to splashing and quick dips in the river. Princeton Tec Fuel headlamp | $30 | princetontec.com
Pocketsize HD CamcorderAlready a huge hit in the U.S. since its release last year, this tiny moviemaker is a virtual home studio and only 3.3 oz. It offers 60 minutes of HD quality video (720p in a 16:9 cinematic widescreen) with one push of a button. A built-in USB port makes it easy to download your movies or other creations in high definition directly into your computer. For aspiring directors, basic editing software is built-in, in which there is a straight-to-Web feature that simplifies the video sharing process on the Internet. Extreme videographers take note: an underwater case and action mount (allowing the camera to attach onto a helmet) are currently in development, so stay tuned. Pure Digital Flip Mini HD camcorder |$280 (non HD version: $220) | theflip.com
26
GEAR (DON’T) CATCH SOME RAYSTODAY’S HIGH-TECH ACTIVEWEAR GIVES YOUYOUR DAY IN THE SUN – WITH NO BLISTERY SIDE EFFECTS.Merely slapping on the lotion or cream before stepping out under the sun doesn’t seem to cut it anymore. To protect yourself from those nasty UVA and UVB rays, now you can turn to your clothing for protection as well. And if the idea of wearing an added layer during those hot humid days gives you the chills, no worries. This gear is as light as it is cool, in both senses of the word. by Alison Lawler-Dean
100%UVA and
UVB shield
UPF50UPF
50+
UPF50+
Shady DealRevo’s polarized lenses are so durable, the company’s site says that even flying gravel won’t slow you down. Choose the lens colour according to your sport of choice: cobalt for water sports such as sailing and surfing, graphite for cycling or hiking in bright sunlight, or bronze for situations requiring high contrast such as golf.Revo Highside sunglasses (shown in cobalt) |$209 | revo.com
Cosmo PantsThis all-purpose sports shirt is lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking and touch-friendly. Besides offering sun protection, it’s also antibacterial, chlorine- and salt-resistant, anti-static, anti-pill and wrinkle-free! Columbia World Traveler pant | $60 |columbia.com
Wave RiderFast-drying, lightweight, four-way stretch fabric makes an ideal rash guard for all your water follies. And besides its sun savvy, this cap-sleeved T-shirt is designed to protect the active gal: a slightly raised neck prevents chafing under a wetsuit or life jacket, and flat-lock seams provide a comfortable fit. Carve Designs Bells Beach shirt | $35 | carvedesigns.com
Girls ’n the HoodNew technology blends the comfort of cotton with the green sensibility of bamboo into a soft jersey fabric. Billions of nanoparticles are embedded into the fibres to offer extreme sun protection plus the additional benefits of being antibacterial, hypoallergenic and odour-controlling. Coolibar ZnO Suntect hoodie | $61 | coolibar.com
Sports companies are hip on making UV protection a regular feature in their garments. Just like you do
when shopping for sunscreen, look for the UPF (Ultraviolet
Protection Factor) number on your newest threads. Whereas an SPF rating measures your max time of sun exposure before burning, UPF tells you how much ultraviolet radiation passes through the fabric. A UPF of 50, say, means that 1/50th of ultraviolet radiation can get through to your skin; in other words, the remaining 49/50ths, or 98 per cent, is blocked. But unlike creams or lotions, clothes don’t come off with sweat or in water. Well, that’s up to you.
UPF50+
Equal to SPF30
UPF50+
UPF50
UPF50+
Hardworking TeeThis all-purpose sports shirt is lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking and touch-friendly. Besides offering sun protection, it’s also antibacterial, chlorine- and salt-resistant, anti-static, anti-pill and wrinkle-free! NoZone Versatex shirt | $40 | nozone.ca
Light TouchThese featherweight shorts are inspired by surfer style but are actually engineered for fast-paced biking on rural trails. A tie closure most often seen in board shorts keeps the weight down versus zips, buttons or snaps. Made of tightly woven stretch fabric, these babies also breathe and repel water. Mace Superleggera shorts | $85 | macegear.com
Graphic ArtsA striking prism pattern adds edge to this Billabong poly-spandex hybrid surf T-shirt. It’s designed to fight off sport-induced stink with a special antimicrobial treatment. Men, listen up – your ladies will approve. Billabong Prizm shirt | $39 | billabong.com
Beach ClubHit the waves in these relaxed-cut shorts. The soft, quick-drying fabric is suited to kayaking, kitesurfing or beach volleyball. Also available in longer inseams for more coverage.Girls4Sport board short | $59 | girls4sport.com
Heads UpLook at you – so Indiana Jones. Tilley’s brand new nylon hat is water- and mildew-resistant and super-ventilated to keep you cool in the sun, not to mention looking like a movie star, or at least an archaeology professor. For added sun, rain and wind protection, it also has a handy tuck-away neck flap. Tilley Airflo hat | $79 | tilley.com
What is UPF?
28 _ AdventurA _ Summer 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca
Single-Speed Revolution
EyEing mE skEptically, Eloy holds out the bike, its seat threadbare, rust peeking through. “This,” he says patting it, “is for a Cuban.” He gestures to my rear end and laughs harder. “And you are not.”
Cuba is known for its exotic location, sensuous culture, rich history and a political situation like no other in the world. My husband Jed and I had to see it before its inevitable change. Canadians account for 40 percent of Cuba’s tourism revenues, mostly thanks to week-long resort stays. We, however, had been living in Cuba for three months, so we opted to stay at casas particulares – private homes licensed by the government.
Jed had the idea of bringing his road bike, converted to a single speed for easier repair and maintenance. The nearly 50-year-old American trade embargo means parts and supplies are extremely hard to come by. You can bring your own bike, but you must take it home with you. Since we wouldn’t be riding for our entire Cuban stay, I would rent as needed for day trips.
That suited me. Cuba on the back of a Flying Pigeon is where pragmatic socialist engineering meets the relaxed vibe of an island whose clocks still read 1963. Cubans call it el bloqueo, the embargo. And when the Soviet Union collapsed – and Cuba lost its source of cheap oil – this island state was forced to import two million of these tank-like, single-speed bicycles from China. While not as comfortable for longer trips, for the adventurous (and politically romantic) these sturdy bikes get the job done, or so goes the local philosophy.
POWER TRIP
Cuba is a living museum for long-distance cyclists. With stories of revolutionaries, martyrs, slaves and Santeria believers unfolding along near-empty concrete highways, just be sure to make time for tobacco plantations, rum casas and the infectious beat of salsa and rumba. by Dana McNairn
© D
ana
McN
airn
AdventurA _ Summer 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 29
Back in the peaceful fishing village of La Boca, a smiling Eloy, owner of the casa we’re staying at, surrenders my Pigeon, and Jed and I start the 12-km ride to Playa Ancón. I’m reluctant to leave my hammock on Eloy’s leafy terrace overlooking the bay, but I’m rewarded by a leisurely coastline peddle that brings us alongside mangrove swamps, banana trees and crumbling Revolution-era lookout bunkers. On the Ancón Peninsula, the soft sand warms my feet while azure waves lap the shore. It’s the perfect setting for our ice-cold Bucanero beers and grilled shrimp as we settle under a beach umbrella to watch the sea.
Honey and vinegarThe next morning we make the gently sloped two-km trip into Trinidad. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a gorgeous assortment of warm-hued Spanish colonial architecture, public squares and churches where the skyline remains
dominated by a 200-year-old butter-hued church tower. A spin out to the sugar cane and coffee plantations is a must because those hacienda ruins dotting the Valley of the Sugar Mills are another World Heritage Site. At one of them, an hour east, looms a 44-m watchtower, erected on the grounds of sugar baron Pedro Iznaga’s cane plantation and formerly used to keep an eye on the slaves toiling beneath it. The ills of colonialism are an odd juxtaposition to the fading “¡Socialismo o muerte!” (“Socialism or Death!”) billboards we wheel past on the roadways. Back in Trinidad, we park ourselves for cancháncharas, a local honey-and-lime cocktail made with dark rum. As our bartender Silvia squeezes limes, she quizzes us about our Valley trip and then slides over the drinks. “This is Cuba,” she shrugs. “It is both sweet and bitter, no?”
This duality is the puzzle and lure of Cuba. Before visiting the country, I was expecting modest infrastructure and a nascent tourism industry. Living here was entirely different. The socialismo that rations food and sets monthly wages at US$15 is the same system pulling in three billion dollars a year in tourism revenue. Black markets thrive in tomatoes and tools, while bored employees stand yawning behind empty state-store counters. Cuba is surrounded by water, but you can’t find fish in the market. I am torn by wanting things to stay untainted, locked in time, but there are obvious hardships, and it’s the Cubans who must bear them.
Rum and revolution mark Santiago de Cuba, from the early conquistadores to pirates, slaves and bootleggers. Our casa is by the park where Fidel Castro gave his 1959 victory speech before marching on Havana. The sweet smell rising from the rum distilleries greets us the morning we cycle along the shimmering Bahía de Santiago, 17 km west to tranquil Playa Buey Cagón. While Jed snorkels among the bright barracudas, fairy basslets and angelfish, I prop myself under a palm tree to take lessons in peeling and eating guava and papaya.
Soldier of ideaSWhile the entire country is a place forgotten by time, Havana is where the economic limbo is most apparent. Rumbling 1940s and ’50s American cars ply the streets, taxis in search of passengers. Homes have rotary dial phones and televisions are scarce. There is no advertising, no fast-food chains, no Wi-Fi. This is how Havana
beguiles: Moorish arches and Spanish colonial verandas cheek-to-jowl with baroque theatres, stone fortresses, French neoclassical columns and art nouveau architecture, all disintegrating equally from decades of neglect and sea spray.
After a night of cigars, rhythmic son dance music and rum at a casa de la música, Jed and I ride out to the beaches at Playa del Este. Grey clouds gather, threatening to make our 20-km ride a wet one. There is a regular ciclobus, the bus for riders and their bikes, but this morning we could use the fresh air. Rolling down another nearly empty concrete highway, I daydream about Hemingway marlin fishing, revolutionary martyrs and walking the Malecón dodging waves. More billboards pass by with Che Guevara’s iconic image and “¡Hasta la victoria siempre!” (“Ever onward to victory!”) painted underneath. It is raining heavily by the time we wheel into pretty
Playa Guanabo, and I have a flat. Our patch kit is empty; the one repair guy we manage to find ruefully shakes his head no – he has no patches either – and the downpour has scuttled any chance of finding another repair stand until the rain lets up, and it looks like it’ll be a while. We’re drenched and I’m grumpy as we take refuge in a café overlooking the empty beach. Swirling my coffee, I recall our new friend Aquinas’ comment one night at the Casa del Caribe back in Santiago. And I smile again because he was right. “But this is how it works in Cuba,” the musician said matter-of-factly. “Poco, poco. Slowly, slowly.”
Côte-Nord
DUPLESSIS
AnticostiIsland
quebecmaritime.ca/duplessis1 888 463-0808
© S
ébas
tien
Laro
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Sept-ÎlesMingan Natashquan
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An exhilarating adventurein unique natural setting!
Côte-NordDuplessis
An exhilarating adventurein unique natural setting!
QM-Adventura:Layout 1 14/5/09 10:52 AM Page 1
SLEEP • Rancho Florida Real No. 78, Playa La Boca, Trinidad.
Contact Eloy Acosta or Sonia Pérez (53-014) 199 3 535
• Colonial Rent Rooms No. 125 e/ Padre Pico y Tto. Rey, Santiago de Cuba. Contact Rafael Velar Rosabal (53-22) 622 538 • [email protected]
• Casa 1932 Campanario No. 38 (Bajos) e/ San Lázaro y Lagunas, Havana. Contact Luis Miguel (53-7) 863 6203 • [email protected]
EATAlongside the meals served at your casa particular, try these paladares:
• Estela Simón Bolívar #557, Trinidad, (53-419) 4329
• Las Gallegas Bartolome Maso #305 altos, e/ General Lacret y San Félix, Santiago de Cuba (53-226) 24 700
• La Guardia Calle Concordia #418, Centro, Havana (53-7) 624 940
PLAYCuba is an outdoor enthusiast’s wonderland. Hike the Sierra Maestra and Cuba’s highest point, Pico Turquino in Santiago de Cuba. Trek the wetlands and forests of Peninsula de Zapata, a national park in Matanzas teeming with wildlife. Go deep in Havana’s 70 dive spots. Grab your saddle and mosey through sugar cane fields around Trinidad or tobacco farms around Pinar del Río.
GETTING THERECubana Airlines and Air Canada fly direct from Toronto and Montreal to Havana and Santiago de Cuba. cubana.cu • aircanada.com
SEASONS• Dry season: November to April • Rainy season: May to October
FOR MORECuba Tourist Boards• Toronto 416-362-0700 • Montreal 514-875-8004 gocuba.ca • cubatravel.cu
I prop myself under a palm tree to take lessons In peelIng and eatIng guava and papaya.
Dana McNairn is a freelance writer who lives in Vietnam. She isn’t saying what happened to Jed’s bike...
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30 _ AdventurA _ Summer 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca
Free Wheelin’Twelve years ago, Thierry Siguenza lost it completely – his pedals, that is. Son and grandson
of a Tour de France rider, Thierry had ridden the trails at the Pilat Regional Natural Park many times with his mountain bike before developing his one-of-a-kind cycle without pedals or seat.
His “Sherpa” features rugged tires, a special designed frame, and drum brakes. Anyone at least four-feet-eight-inches tall – and young at heart – will get a kick from this oddball novelty. With no pedal stroke and a stabilizing low centre of gravity, the “Sherpa” goes almost everywhere,
attracting envious eyes along the way…– Paul villecourt, photographer
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