Advanced Garments Printing Azmir Latif, MSc. in Textile Engineering 1 | Page Introduction In the apparel industry, besides the artwork to be printed, the most important thing is the printing technique. There are several printing techniques, and each of them is suitable for a certain business strategy. Printing can also be defined as localized dyeing. Defined as the application of dye or pigment in a different pattern on the fabric and by subsequent after treatment of fixing the dye or pigment to get a particular design. Being a designer you may have multiple options to decide which printing techniques is most suitable for a specific design on the garment. Experienced designers choose printing method primarily on the basis final outcome as design sharpness, durability, brightness, texture and hand feel. Sometimes a printed fabric can be identified by looking at the back side of fabric where there is no design or color as face side. In cotton, dyes like vat, reactive are used. In manmade, dyes like disperse and cationic are used. As when a design comes for production, we need to consider many things to choose a particular printing method. Each printing method has advantages as well as disadvantages. [1] Advanced Garment Printing Advancement in technology has paved the way for a much better garment printing. The art of direct printing on garment is simplified by the technology every day. You can already choose and create your own design for t-shirts and other garments regardless of how complex the design is. In this assignment I discuses some advanced garment printing given below. Digital Printing Flock Printing Flex Printing High Density Printing Foil Printing Puff Printing Cavier Bead Print Glitter Printing Metallic Print: Burn Out Printing Reflective print Plastisol Print Rubber Printing Crack Printing Spray Printing Transfer Printing Heat transfer printing Heat Transfer Vinyl Printing Floral Print Digital Printing Digital print directly transfer print onto the fabric by ink. In advanced technology develop no need a paper or film which is used previously to print digitally. New machine directly print fabric. Digital printing is the ideal printing technique for photos and colorful designs which have gradients. This printing technique does not last as long as flex and flock. The colors fade over time. In this form of
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Advanced Garments Printing Azmir Latif, MSc. in Textile Engineering
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Introduction In the apparel industry, besides the artwork to be printed, the most important thing is the printing
technique. There are several printing techniques, and each of them is suitable for a certain business
strategy. Printing can also be defined as localized dyeing. Defined as the application of dye or pigment
in a different pattern on the fabric and by subsequent after treatment of fixing the dye or pigment to get
a particular design. Being a designer you may have multiple options to decide which printing
techniques is most suitable for a specific design on the garment. Experienced designers choose printing
method primarily on the basis final outcome as design sharpness, durability, brightness, texture and
hand feel. Sometimes a printed fabric can be identified by looking at the back side of fabric where
there is no design or color as face side. In cotton, dyes like vat, reactive are used. In manmade, dyes
like disperse and cationic are used. As when a design comes for production, we need to consider many
things to choose a particular printing method. Each printing method has advantages as well as
disadvantages. [1]
Advanced Garment Printing Advancement in technology has paved the way for a much better garment printing. The art of direct
printing on garment is simplified by the technology every day. You can already choose and create
your own design for t-shirts and other garments regardless of how complex the design is. In this
assignment I discuses some advanced garment printing given below.
Digital Printing
Flock Printing
Flex Printing
High Density Printing
Foil Printing
Puff Printing
Cavier Bead Print
Glitter Printing
Metallic Print:
Burn Out Printing
Reflective print
Plastisol Print
Rubber Printing
Crack Printing
Spray Printing
Transfer Printing
Heat transfer printing
Heat Transfer Vinyl Printing
Floral Print
Digital Printing Digital print directly transfer print onto the fabric by ink. In advanced technology develop no need a
paper or film which is used previously to print digitally. New machine directly print fabric. Digital
printing is the ideal printing technique for photos and colorful designs which have gradients. This
printing technique does not last as long as flex and flock. The colors fade over time. In this form of
Advanced Garments Printing Azmir Latif, MSc. in Textile Engineering
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printing micro-sized droplets of dye are placed onto the fabric through an inkjet print head. The print
system software interprets the data supplied by academic Textile digital image file. The digital image
file has the data to control the droplet output so that the image quality and color control may be
achieved. This is the latest development in textile printing and is expanding very fast.[17]
Digital Direct Printing
Print with computer-operated digital print, ideally suited for large-scale prints.
Colors are sprayed on and made durable with a hardener. The fabrics can still be felt when
touching the design.
Results in a relaxed “vintage look”. The design looks a bit faded, don‟t expect brash colors.
Digital direct is not available for all of our products.
Direct To Garment Printing (DTG) – While screen printing technique is considered to be traditional
and known by everybody, direct to garment printing is fairly new. Because it is new, the printer is also
very expensive, but the quality of the printed t-shirts is excellent. With the direct to garment printers,
the design is printed directly on t-shirt or on the desired product (mouse pad, caps etc.).The art process
allows unlimited colors and shades to be printed, thing that could not be possible with the screen
printing. It is the perfect option for photo t-shirts and very detailed images. Direct to garment printing
is considered to be the only professional option for low run orders. That means you can print one t-
shirt or 100 without problems. The printing process in the case of DTG takes longer than in the case of
screen printing and the big disadvantage is that the artwork can‟t be printed on dark t-shirts (with few
exceptions). Also, that‟s the reason why the printer does not print the white color. The result is
professional and designs are not felt on the garment.[21]
Laser print
Suitable for printing of accessory fabrics such as bags, caps and hats.
The design is put on transparent transfer foil, and then cut out and pressed on the fabrics while
applying great heat.
Smooth, slightly shiny print with brilliant print results that stay when hand-washing.
Effects and Presences of Digital Printing
There has been no greater effect on the print industry over recent years than the introduction of digital
printing. As technologies have gone from strength to strength, it is fast becoming the go to medium for
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A finished sueade print has a matte finish and is very soft to the touch.
High Density and Suede are clear bases that can be added to any print color.
(example blue-"High Density" grey "Suede"
Suede is a special effect ink similar to high density ink except with a soft leather like feel. Suede ink
can be either printed high for a 3-D effect or printed normally for a more subtle felt like feel.
A finished sueade print has a matte finish and is very soft to the touch.
High Density and Suede are clear bases that can be added to any print color.
(example blue-"High Density" grey "Suede"
Suede ink was derived from puff ink. The process for printing is similar, but suede ink results
with with a raised fuzzy nap reminiscent of suede leather Suede leather is made from the underside of the skin, primarily lamb, although goat, pig, calf and deer
are commonly used
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One of the original specialty affects in the world of screen printing. Puff ink is a plastisol that has been
modified with the addition of a heat reactive foaming agent. The ink expands when exposed to high
temperature heat as the garment is cured.
High Density v/s Rubber Puff Printing
High density screen printing at first glance seems to be some sort of high-quality puff print. Actually,
the high density inks are not puff inks at all. They are a high viscosity ink designed to easily flow
through your screen mesh while holding a very sharp edge with durability fasteners towards World
Standards.[20]
Foil Printing Foil printing is to print some pattern with the foil on the fabric for shiny effect. There are two kind of
foil printing method. This printing method is based on the use of metallic foil paper of aluminium or
copper one. Foil is applied by adhesive. The print fixation method is similar to transfer printing. This
print method is popular amongst youngsters.
In the first method, the pattern is printed by a foil/transfer adhesive on the fabric, and then pressed with
foil paper by hot steel roller.
The pressure is generally 5-6 bars on printed portion and at 190 degree Celcius on fusing machine for
8-12 seconds. [1]
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FOIL Foil is actually a heat press application, but can be applied on press for certain affects. Foil adheres to
plastisol inks or a clear foil adhesive. Available in silver, gold, bronze, red, and blue. There are some
awesome iridescent foils affects available too - just check with your sales rep.[1]To get the gold /silver
stamp, a foil layer is affixed to a certain material by a heating process. It isn‟t too complicated of a
process and getting the files ready are quite similar to uv-spot printing. See my guide on preparing files
for print as a reference and talk with your printer about how to supply the files. Foil printing normally
requires vector images and/or outlined fonts of what you want to have stamped.[5]
In foil printing, the quality of the adhesive is very important. Generally it is made up of acrylic co-
polymer with water as diluents. Cheaper qualities show very poor stretch, loss of softness and
smoothness after five washes and look very unlike the original print. The foil should not stick to cured
inks under pressure. Normally a matting agent is added to avoid sticking.[1]
In the second method, printing is done on the foil paper first, and then foil is pressed on the fabric with
hot steel roller or iron.
Foil paper is called the stamping foil paper. Actually it is not the paper but the detachable foil film on
the plastic base. Generally it is PET film of 15 micron thickness, available in widths of 640 or 1500mm
Recipe: It is a simple recipe; this recipe can be charged on the depth of the color and types of dyes use.
Foil paste-90%
Fixer-10%
Sequence of foil printing
Fabric preparation
Fabric plaited on the table
Foil gun/ Foil paste apply by screen
Dry slightly in air temp. /hand dryer
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Apply foil paper on the fabric
Heat applies by heat press m/c (150c for 5 sec.)
Cooling for 4 sec
Foil paper removed by hand
Delivery
So, print your fabric by foil printing process and produce various attractive designs.
Foil Stamping
Foil stamping is a specialty printing process that uses heat, pressure, metal dies and foil film. The foil
comes in rolls in a wide assortment of colors, finishes, and optical effects.[4]
The Printing Process
Foil stamping is somewhat similar to letterpress and engraving, in that the color is applied to paper
with pressure. As a result, the foil process leaves a slightly raised impression on the paper.
The dies are heated and then stamped with enough pressure to seal a thin layer of foil to the paper.
Metallic foils have a shiny, lustrous finish. With thermography, lithography and letterpress, metallics
can fall flat and don‟t have much in the way of shimmer.[4]
Puff Printing
Puff print is another common print in the fashion industry. Sometimes it called emboss print also. It is
almost similar to the rubber print we can make this print in any color. In puff print rubber and puff
chemical used combined. Mainly buyer asked this print on this print on knitted T-shirt. The printing
process is same as other serene print. One of the original specialties affects in the world of screen
printing. Puff ink is a plastisol that has been modified with the addition of a heat reactive foaming
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agent. The ink expands when exposed to high temperature heat as the garment is cured.[8] An additive
to Plastisol inks which raises the print off the garment, creating a 3D feel. In this method when the
paste is printed and dries it look like normal printing garments but once it is cured the prints gets raised
from the surface of fabric. [18]
Printing process:
Like as other print we make the print screen at first.
We make rubber color as manual.
Mix an Emboss or Foaming paste with the following color.
Then print on the garments with following color mixer like as a normal rubber print.
Then we dry the print area by using heat. This the turning point of the print. Because after
getting the heat the print becomes puffed. Normally we dry the print area with dryer for small
print. If the print area is larger than we heat press the print with curing machine. I advice all to
use heat press machine instead of hand dryer. It will make the puffed evenly, before heat press
please adjusts the temperature and pressure of curing machine to get the correct output. Less
heat will give you a less puffed print.[7]
Cost of the print
Though, the exact idea regarding the price of the print, need to contact factory with a print art work. It
may be one and half times more costly than rubber print.
Caution:
During a heat press please be careful regarding the color of body fabric because the excessive heat can
affect on the color of body fabric.[7]
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Puff Additive
Jacquard Puff Additive is used to increase the relief of prints on paper, fabric and other surfaces.
Simply mix a little of the additive into your Jacquard Screen Ink (up to 20%), print as usual and then
apply heat to your print. The microspheres in the Puff Additive expand with heat, giving you a raised
print only after heating. Once puffed, the print is washfast and dry cleanable.[9]
Fabric/Fiber/Surfaces natural or synthetic fabric and paper, vinyl, metal and leather
Sizes 4 fl oz/118 ml (Item JSI1300)
8 fl oz/.24 L (Item JSI2300)
16 fl oz/.47 L (Item JSI3300)
1 qt/.95 L (Item JSIQ300)
1 gal/3.79 L (Item JSI4300)
Easy Process
Instructions
Use: Add to Jacquard Screen Ink (JSI) up to 20% by weight. Mix thoroughly. Pot life of mixture is
indefinite. Apply heat to print and ink will puff in all directions. For use on paper, fabric, and other
surfaces.
Finish: Puff Additive has a matte finish and will affect the semi-gloss finish of JSI in proportion to the
amount added.
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Opacity: Puff Additive becomes opaque upon expansion and will opacify JSI in proportion to the
amount added.
Mesh Count: 80-305/inch (32T-122T cm) or according to ink specifications. JSI is recommended with
mesh counts 80-160/inch (32T-64T cm).
Drying/Curing: While print is wet, heat the entire ink deposit to 275˚F/135˚C using a hot air gun or
oven to puff. Do not overheat. For best results, allow ink to air cure 72 hours once puffed before
washing.
Cleanup: Cleans up with water or mild detergent.
Caution: Always test this product for washability and durability prior to production.[9]
Cavier Bead Print:
Glue is printed in the shape of the design, to which small plastic beads are then applied. Works well
with solid block areas creating an interesting tactile surface.[18]
Glitter Printing
Glitter is a unique, clear digital print and cut material for full-color printing that adds the bold look of
sparkly glitter. Glitters add on the garment with paste and fixed by heat on a specific area. This is a
clear material with flakes of glitter built in. Glitter is excellent for small designs and detailed logos and
is compatible for use with Eco-Solvent, Solvent, Latex, and thermo resin (Gerber Edge) inks.[10] Metallic flakes are suspended in the ink base to create this sparkle effect. Usually available in gold or
silver but can be mixed to make most colours.[18]
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After pre-treatment of the fabric, printing operation is done on the table. Printing glitter paste is applied
on the fabric by the screen printing process. After printing curing is done at high temperature. Curing
is done slowly.
Recipe: This is a simple printing recipe. It will be changed according to the shade of the delivery
printed goods.
Rubber paste-70%
Fixer-2%
Glitter-28%
Sequence of Glitter printing process on Textile materials: By the following way glitter printing is
done on the knitted or woven fabric
Fabric pre-treatment
Table preparation
Fabric plaited on the table
Glitter paste apply by screen
Hanging for 15 mins for dry
Curing 160c (speed 3m/min)
Delivery
There are many glitter manufacturing companies which provide glitter.
Glitter describes an assortment of small, flat, reflective particles. Glitter reflect light at different
angles, causing the surface to sparkle or shimmer. Glitter is like confetti or sequins, only smaller. Since
prehistoric times, glitter has been made and used as decoration, from many different materials
including stones such as malachite, galena, mica, insects, and glass. Modern glitter is usually