Adafruit Proto Screw Shield · Adafruit Proto Screw Shield Created by lady ada Last updated on 2016-09-09 07:49:13 PM UTC

Adafruit Proto Screw ShieldCreated by lady ada

Last updated on 2016-09-09 07:49:13 PM UTC

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Guide Contents

Guide ContentsIntroductionMake it!

Let's go!

PreparationPrepTools

Parts listSolder it!Download

© Adafruit Industries https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-screw-shield Page 2 of 24

IntroductionThe proto-screwshield (http://adafru.it/aIH) is the ultimate breakout board for an Arduino. Itcombines a prototyping shield with a full set of 3.5mm screw terminal blocks. Theprotoshield part lets you build custom circuitry and then you can easily & securely connectwires and sensors to the terminal blocks. Great for panel mounts, buttons, sensors,enclosures etc.

The shield even comes with stacking headers, (http://adafru.it/aIH) which let you pluganother shield on top! As shown here, a data logging shield is stacked onto the proto-screwshield.


http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17_21&products_id=196

http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17_21&products_id=85

The proto-screwshield is based off of the Screw Shield by WingShield Industries (we justadded a prototype area! (http://adafru.it/cmb)


http://wingshieldindustries.com/

Make it!

Let's go!

This is a vey easy kit to make, just go through each of these steps to build the kit.

1. Tools and preparation (http://adafru.it/map)2. Check the parts list (http://adafru.it/rfR)3. Solder it (http://adafru.it/rfS)


Preparation

Prep

Learn how to solder with tons of tutorials! (http://adafru.it/aTk)Don't forget to learn how to use your multimeter too! (http://adafru.it/aZZ)

Tools

There are a few tools that are required for assembly. None of these tools are included. Ifyou don't have them, now would be a good time to borrow or purchase them. They are veryvery handy whenever assembling/fixing/modifying electronic devices! I provide links to buythem, but of course, you should get them whereever is most convenient/inexpensive. Manyof these parts are available in a place like Radio Shack or other (higher quality) DIYelectronics stores.

Soldering iron

Any entry level 'all-in-one'soldering iron that you might findat your local hardware storeshould work. As with most thingsin life, you get what you pay for.

Upgrading to a higher endsoldering iron setup, like theHakko FX-888 that we stock in


http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering

http://learn.adafruit.com/multimeters/

http://adafruit.com/products/303

our store (http://adafru.it/303), willmake soldering fun and easy.

Do not use a "ColdHeat"soldering iron! They are notsuitable for delicate electronicswork and can damage the kit(see here (http://adafru.it/aOo)).

Click here to buy our entry leveladjustable 30W 110V solderingiron (http://adafru.it/180).

Click here to upgrade to aGenuine Hakko FX-888adjustable temperature solderingiron. (http://adafru.it/303)

Solder

You will want rosin core, 60/40solder. Good solder is a goodthing. Bad solder leads tobridging and cold solder jointswhich can be tough to find.

Click here to buy a spool ofleaded solder (recommended forbeginners) (http://adafru.it/145).

Click here to buy a spool of lead-free solder (http://adafru.it/734).


https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/9838


http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/cold-soldering2.htm






Multimeter

You will need a good qualitybasic multimeter that canmeasure voltage and continuity.

Click here to buy a basicmultimeter. (http://adafru.it/71)

Click here to buy a top of the linemultimeter. (http://adafru.it/308)

Click here to buy a pocketmultimeter. (http://adafru.it/850)








Flush Diagonal Cutters

You will need flush diagonalcutters to trim the wires andleads off of components onceyou have soldered them in place.

Click here to buy our favoritecutters (http://adafru.it/152).

Solder Sucker

Strangely enough, that's the




technical term for this desolderingvacuum tool. Useful in cleaningup mistakes, every electricalengineer has one of these ontheir desk.

Click here to buy aone (http://adafru.it/148).

Helping Third Hand WithMagnifier

Not absolutely necessary but willmake things go much muchfaster, and it will make solderingmuch easier.

Pick one uphere (http://adafru.it/291).

Good light. More important than you think.






Parts list

Image Name Description Information &Distributor

Qty

Printed circuitboard

Adafruit 1

2-position 3.5terminal block

3.5mmterminals

6

3-position 3.5terminal block

3.5mmterminals

8

LED1 3mm Red LED Generic 1

LED2 3mm Green LED Generic 1

R1 R2

470-1.0K Resistorsfor LED

Carbon 5% 1/4W

Generic 2

RESETS1

6mm tact switch Generic 1

8 pin female 0.1"stacky header(1x8)

Generic 2

6 pin female 0.1"stacky header(1x6)

Generic 2

10-pin stackingheader

Generic 1

2x3 pin stackingheader

Generic 1


http://www.adafruit.com/

http://www.adafruit.com/partfinder/terminals?s%5B%5D=3.5mm

http://www.adafruit.com/partfinder/terminals?s%5B%5D=3.5mm

http://www.adafruit.com/partfinder/leds#mm_t-1_package

http://www.adafruit.com/partfinder/leds#mm_t-1_package

http://www.adafruit.com/partfinder/resistors#w_5_carbon

http://www.adafruit.com/partfinder/switches?s%5B%5D=6mm tactile#pushbuttons

http://www.adafruit.com/partfinder/header?s%5B%5D=stacky#female_header

http://www.adafruit.com/partfinder/header?s%5B%5D=stacky#female_header


Solder it!This tutorial page is for the pre-R3 version of the shield, so the photos may be slightlydifferent, however the overall assembly procedure is the same!

Assembly of the shield is prettyeasy and should take you maybe20 minutes maximum.

First, check you have all thecomponents.

The green-pcb photo shows theolder rev of the kit,

The blue-pcb photo shows theR3 version - we now include anextra 10-pin stacking header anda 2x3 stacking header




You'll need to slide the terminalblocks together. They come in 2and 3-piece parts but you caneasily connect them to make anysize.

Get ready by putting the PCB in avise. Then you can start byplacing one of the 8-pieceterminal blocks in the "Analog"breakout area.

Check to make sure that theterminal blocks are facing theright way! You want the 'mouth'to face outward.

The terminal blocks should 'pressfit' pretty nicely so they stay inplace. If they seem a little loose,you can use tape to hold downthe terminal blocks while yousolder them.





Flip over the PCB.

And solder the pins to the pads.Use plenty of solder so that youget the pads completely filled.



Place the remaining terminalblocks, checking again that theyface the right direction!

You can also just put the PCBwith terminal blocks upside downon a table, which will keep the





blocks in place while soldering.

Next you can place the four'stacking' headers. They go rightnext to the terminal blocks.

With the new R3 version, you'lluse 1 pc 10pin stacking header,2 pcs 8 stacking header and 1 pc6 stacking header

Flip over the PCB, you can lay itdown on a table again, just makesure that all the headers aresticking out straight.





Solder all the pins of the headerwith plenty of solder.





Next we'll place the two LEDs.The first LED is the green-colored one. This will tell uswhen the Arduino and shields arepowered.

LED's are directional whichmeans you need to place it in theright way or it wont work!

Check the LED to find the longerpin. This is the positive lead.That lead goes into the holeclosest to the silkscreen '+'

In the image to the left, thelonger lead is to the left.

Next is the red LED. This LEDcan be used for pretty muchwhatever you want, although wesuggest connecting it to pin 13 toact like a debugging LED.

Remember that the LED isdirectional, and the longer lead ispositive. In the image to the left,the longer lead is to the left.




You can bent the LED leads outof the way to keep the LEDs flatagainst the PCB.



Solder both LEDs in place.

Use the diagonal cutters to clipthe long LED legs. They shouldbe cut just above the solder joint.

This will keep them from shorting




against stuff.

Next we will place the two1.0Kohm resistors. Theseresistors are used to set thebrightness of the LEDs. If youwant brighter LEDs you cansubstitute 220 ohm resistors. Ifyou want dimmer LEDs, you canuse 4.7Kohm.

Resistors do not have 'direction'so they can go either way andwork fine. Place the two resistorsinto the silkscreen slots on theright of the PCB.





Solder and clip the two resistors.

Last we will place the resetswitch. This switch will let youeasily reset the Arduino.

Tactile switches are symmetric,so you don't have to worry aboutputting them in wrong, and willsnap into place flat against thePCB.

Place the switch next to theRESET text.

Clip the tactile switch legs.They're pretty short but they areright on top of the DC jack so theshield will sit better if you clipthem!





That's it! You can now insert theheaders into the Arduino andstart using the shield!

© Adafruit Industries Last Updated: 2016-09-09 07:49:12 PM UTC Page 24 of 24


DownloadYou can download the PCB files directly from the github repositoryhere! (http://adafru.it/cmf)

Fritzing object in the Adafruit Fritzing Library (http://adafru.it/aP3)

Files are Creative Commons, Share-Alike Attribution and a derivative of the Screw Shieldby WingShield Industries. (http://adafru.it/cmb)

https://github.com/adafruit/Screwshield

https://github.com/adafruit/Fritzing-Library

http://wingshieldindustries.com/

Adafruit Proto Screw Shield · Adafruit Proto Screw Shield Created by lady ada Last updated on 2016-09-09 07:49:13 PM UTC

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