A52 Icollections.banq.qc.ca/bitstream/52327/2029761/1/26585.pdf · fortress-crowned rock; and the final struggle for Canada, between the French and English, which closed on the heights

FC 2 m . is A52 I 7 0 7

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Canadian Pacific Railway Co. A T L A N T I C S E R V I C E

Between L I V E R P O O L and Q U E B E C

R. M. S. Empress of Ireland and R. M. S. Empress of Britain

2 Days on the sheltered waters of the St.

Lawrence River. Less than 4 days at sea

S p e a t u n g of t h e s e sh ip s a t t h e t i m e of t h e i r c o m p l e t i o n in t h e s u m m e r of 1906 a M a r i n e J o u r n a l s t a t e d " F r o m s t e m to s t e r n a n d f rom keel t o t r u c k , t h e s e sh ip s a r e t h e l a s t w o r d in s h i p b u i l d i n g . "

F o r tull p a r t i c u l a r s . i pp ly t o a n y A g e n t of t h e C o m p a n y in t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s or C a n a d a , o r to

GEO. McL. BROWN, General Passenger Jigent, I

Canadian Pacific Ry Jtttantic S.S. Lines, Montreal,

T h e A n c i e n t C i t y < 3 = o f

QUEBEC

T "<0 T H E s t r ange r wi th in its ga tes Quebec wields a c h a r m and a spell. So n e a r t o t h e grea t cen t res of Amer i can life ye t it belongs t o o the r t imes , a n d h a s p reserved

t h a t un iqueness which m a k e s it t h e most, in te res t ing c i ty on th i s side of t h e A t l an t i c . W h a t cons t i t u t e s t h e c h a r m of th is old capi ta l of C a n a d a ? I s it t h e s tory of t h e great

st i uirgle of n a t i o n s for s u p r e m a c y , or t h e g l a m o u r of romance connec ted wi th the d a r i n g a n d d a s h ­

ing a d v e n t u r e r s who c a m e from t h e br i l l iant Cour t of F r a n c e where L a P o m ­p a d o u r wielded so p o t e n t a sway ? Cer ta in it is, t h e c h a r m is t h e r e ; t h e c h a r m of d e a d cen tu r i e s ; t h e c h a r m a n d flavor of imper i shab le deeds a n d t h e glory of i m m o r t a l ac t ions .

B u t t he re is a n o t h e r sub t le c h a r m , a n d it is t h e s e t t i ng of t h e old fortress c i ty . W h a t a p a n o r a m a on all s ides! W h e r e v e r t h e eye rests t he re is a p ic tu re , and such b e a u t y of perspec t ive , especially in t h e b road sweep of t h e m i g h t y S t . Lawrence sea­ward , as leaves a l as t ing impress ion. Yes , Quebec is q u a i n t , a n d full of y e a r s a n d honours , b u t she holds t h a t wi th in her old walls which d r a w s tour i s t s from all q u a r t e r s , who , going hence, are loud in pra ise of the venerab le ci ty e n t h r o n e d upon Cape D i a m o n d .

His tor ica l ly , it s t a n d s p re -eminen t . He re t h e germ of E u r o p e a n civilization was p l an t ed in th i s new n o r t h e r n l and , a n d t h e t w o g rea tes t of old-world mona rch ie s b a t t l e d for half a con t inen t . He re medieval ideas of fortification and defence m a y be seen; here t h e bold , for t ress-crowned rock, a n d t h e majes t ic r iver, w i th t r i b u t e of t h e whole west­ern world a t i ts feet .show N a t u r e in her m o s t wonderful m o o d

4 Q U E B E C

I t is of Quebec t h a t Char les Dickens , wr i t ing of h is visit s i x t y y e a r s ago , sa id : " T h e impress ion m a d e u p o n t h e vis i tor b y th i s G i b r a l t a r of Amer ica , i t s g i d d y h e i g h t s , i t s c i tade l suspended , as i t were, in a i r ; i ts p i c t u r e s q u e s t eep s t r e e t s a n d f rowning g a t e w a y s ; a n d t h e sp lendid views which b u r s t u p o n t h e eye a t e v e r y t u r n is a t once u n i q u e a n d las t ing . I t is a p lace no t t o b e f o r g o t t e n . " H e n r y W a r d Beecher , too , was g rea t l y impressed w i t h t h e c i ty , for h e w r o t e : "Cur ious old Quebec—of all cit ies on t h e con t inen t of A m e r i c a -

Part of the O l d City Wal l s , Quebec .

t h e q u a i n t e s t . I t is a p o p u l a t e d cliff. I t is a m i g h t y rock, sca rped a n d g raded . * * * H e r e is a smal l b i t of m e d i e v a l E u r o p e pe rched upon a rock, a n d dr ied for k e e p i n g — a cur ios i ty t h a t h a s n o t i t s equa l in i ts k i n d on th i s side of t h e ocean . S t ro l l ing in L o w e r T o w n one m i g h t fancy himself in A m i e n s or D ieppe , a n d a long t h e G r a n d Allée, r u n n i n g r ight a'cross t h e pla ins of A b r a h a m y o u m i g h t b e in Brusse ls o r P a r i s , on ly t h a t Clifton Te r r ace seems t o recall K e n s i n g t o n . " D e a r del ightful old Quebec , w i th her g r a y walls a n d sh in ing t in roofs; he r p rec ip i tous , h e a d l o n g s t r e e t s a n d s leepy s q u a r e s and e sp lanades ; her

s n a r r o w al leys a n d peaceful c o n v e n t s ; her ha rmles s a n t i q u e c a n n o n on t h e

p a r a p e t s and her sweet toned bells in t h e spi res ; her t ower ing c h a t e a u on t h e

he igh t s a n d her long, low, q u e e r smel l ing warehouses in t h e lower t o w n ; h e r

spick a n d span calèches a n d her d ingy t ro l ley cars ; he r sp r ink l ing of soldiers

a n d sai lors w i t h Sco t ch accen t a n d I r i sh b r o g u e a n d c o c k n e y t w a n g on a

b a c k g r o u n d of p e t i t e bourgeoise speak ing t h e q u a i n t e s t of F r e n c h d i a l ec t s ;

he r m e m o r i e s of a n a d v e n t u r o u s g l i t t e r ing pas t a n d h e r p lac id c o n t e n t m e n t

w i th t h e t r a n q u i l g rayness of t h e p r e s e n t ; her glor ious d a y l i g h t ou t look over

t h e vale of t h e St . Charles , t h e level shore of M o n t m o r e n c i , t h e green He

d 'Or l éans d iv id ing t h e shin ing reaches of t h e b r o a d St . L a w r e n c e , a n d t h e b l u e

L a u r e n t i a n m o u n t a i n s rolling far t o t h e e a s t w a r d , a n d a t n igh t t h e d a r k bu lk

T h e Ch aleau Frontenac from Lower T o w n , Q u e b e c

of t h e c i tadel ou t l ined aga ins t t h e s t a r r y b lue , a n d far below t h e h u d d l e d house ­tops , t h e si lent wha rves , t h e l igh ts of t h e g rea t war sh ips swinging wi th t h e t ide , t h e i n t e r m i t t e n t f e r ryboa t s p l y i n g t o a n d fro, t h e t w i n k l i n g l a m p s of Levis r ising a long t h e d im s o u t h e r n shore a n d reflected on t h e l aps ing , cu r l ing seaward sl iding waves of t h e g rea t r iver ! W h a t c i ty of t h e new world k e e p s so m u c h of t h e c h a r m of t h e o l d ? "

T h e Ci ty of Quebec is such a convenien t res t ing p lace b e t w e e n Mon t r ea l

a n d t h e several po in t s of in te res t on t h e L o w e r St . L a w r e n c e , a n d is of itself

so in te res t ing , a n d so un l ike o t h e r ci t ies of t h e c o n t i n e n t , t h a t v e r y few m a k i n g

t h e t o u r of t h e S t . L a w r e n c e pass i ts m e m o r a b l e walls , w i t h o u t s p e n d i n g a

few d a y s wi th in t h e m . T h e y desire t o see where Car t i e r , t h e C o l u m b u s of t h e

6 Q U E B E C

N o r t h , first l a n d e d ; where C h a m p l a i n founded t h e first F r e n c h colony; where Wolfe fell, a n d M o n t c a l m rece ived h i s d e a t h w o u n d ; a n d where M o n t g o m e r y , t h e A m e r i c a n genera l , was ki l led, while besieging t h e c i ty on 31st D e c e m b e r , 1775. T h e s t r e e t s of Quebec are redo len t of t h e religious and mi l i t a ry h i s to ry of ea r ly C a n a d a , a n d m o r e h is tor ic m e m o r i e s l inger a b o u t th i s a n c i e n t s t r o n g ­hold , t h a n r o u n d a n y o t h e r c i ty on t h e con t inen t . T h e " B r e a k Neck S t e p s " l ead ing from M o u n t a i n Hil l t o L i t t l e C h a m p l a i n S t r ee t (once a lead ing t h o ­r o u g h f a r e ) , a l t h o u g h demol i shed a n d rep laced b y a m o d e r n s t r u c t u r e , will y e t s t r i ke t h e vis i tor as well deserv ing the i r n a m e , a n d in t h a t p o r t i o n of t h e

Break Neck Stairs, Sous le C a p Street T w o Far -Famed Streets in Quebec

c i t y called " S o u s le C a p , " h e will see a g r e a t c o n t r a s t t o cor responding por t ions of a n y Amer i can c i ty he is a c q u a i n t e d wi th . E v e r y spo t , now dismissed in a sen tence , was t h e cen t re of e v e n t s which seemed, t o t h e ac to r s of t h e m , t o b e f r augh t w i th fa r - reach ing consequences , a s indeed m a n y of t h e m were . I t is t h r e e h u n d r e d a n d s even ty -one y e a r s since J a c q u e s Car t ie r ancho red off w h a t was t h e n t h e I n d i a n vil lage of S t a d a c o n a , a n d , of course , c l a imed t h e res t of i t all , w h a t e v e r it m i g h t p r o v e t o be , for t h e K i n g of F r a n c e . H e m a d e n o p e r m a n e n t s e t t l emen t here , b u t in 1549, t h e Sieur d e R o b e r v a l s p e n t

Q U E B E C 7

one win te r wi th a smal l colony h e h a d b r o u g h t ou t , a n d t h e n re t i red . I n 1608 C h a m p l a i n a r r ived , a n d succeeded in es tab l i sh ing t h e F r e n c h possession of t h e c o u n t r y , and commenced t o p rov ide ma te r i a l for h i s to ry . H i s r o m a n t i c re ign, as p rac t ica l K i n g of the St . Lawrence , a n d t h e event fu l t imes of his F r e n c h successors, h a v e been so f requent ly , a n d so well descr ibed b y P a r k m a n , Kingsford , S t ewar t , Le Moine, Bour ino t , C h a m b e r s a n d H a r p e r t h a t i t is no t necessary t o say a n y more of t h e m here . Quebec has seen m o r e of war , p robab ly , t h a n a n y o the r place on t h e con t inen t .

T h e mere s ight of t h e c i ty recalls t o m e m o r y t h e long succession of thr i l l ing his tor ical even t s , in which m a n y n a t i o n s were deep ly i n t e r e s t ed . T h e F rench , t h e Engl i sh , t h e Amer icans , a n d t h e abor ig ina l I n d i a n s , h a v e a l l

T h e Famous Chateau Frontenac

played the i r p a r t s in t h e s t i r r ing d r a m a , whose scenes were laid a r o u n d t h e for t ress-crowned rock; a n d t h e final s t ruggle for C a n a d a , b e t w e e n t h e F r e n c h a n d Engl i sh , which closed on t h e he igh t s of A b r a h a m , s aw t h e end of F r a n c e in t h e n o r t h e r n half of t h e con t inen t , a n d c o m m e n c e d t h e reg ime wh ich was inev i tab ly des t ined to resu l t in t h e self-governing l iber ty which C a n a d a n o w enjoys,

Quebec's Famous Hotel and its matchless s i tua t ion .

T h e Cha t eau F r o n t e n a c , t h e favour i te resor t of t ou r i s t s , is a m a g n i ­ficent fire-proof ho te l , o p e r a t e d b y t h e C a n a d i a n Pacific R a i l w a y C o m p a n y , a n d s t a n d s a t t h e eas t e rn e n d of a sp lendid e s p l a n a d e k n o w n as Dufferin Ter race , j u s t below t h e King ' s Bas t ion of t h e Ci tadel , c o m m a n d i n g del ight fu l

8 Q U E B E C

views of t h e St . Lawrence as far as t h e eye can reach , down p a s t t h e Is le d 'Or l éans , across t o Levis a n d beyond , u p s t r e a m to Sil lery, a n d t o t h e left, t h e c o u n t r y a long t h e beau t i fu l va l l ey of t h e St . Char les R ive r . T h e g r a n d e u r of t h e scenery is ma tch le s s j in d ive r s i ty a n d c h a r m i n g in effect. No finer s i te for s u c h a s t r u c t u r e could be found on t h e c o n t i n e n t , a n d it would no t b e easy t o combine t h e a d v a n t a g e s it possesses, in a n y o the r p lace . This e legant ho te l , on w h i c h ove r $1,000,000 has been judic iously expended , is e rec ted on a his­tor ic spo t of more t h a n o r d i n a r y i n t e r e s t — t h e site of t h e old Cha t eau St . L o u i s ,

so famous in Canad ian h is tory , a n d once t h e vice­regal residence of t h e Gov­ernors of C a n a d a , b o t h before a n d after t h e con­ques t . " A mass ive , shape ly edifice is th i s g r a n d hote l on D u f f e r i n T e r r a c e , " w r i t e s t h e well-known au thoress , F a i t h F e n t o n ; " a ver i tab le o ld- t ime cha t ­eau , whose curves a n d cupolas , t u r r e t s a n d towers , even whose tones , of g rey s tone a n d du l l br ick, ha rmonize well wi th t h e sober, q u a i n t , a r c h ­i t ec tu re of our dear , old For t ress C i t y . Cha t ­eau F r o n t e n a c has been p l a n n e d wi th a s t rong sense of t h e fitness of th ings . I n ex te r io r i t b lends w i th i ts su r round ­ings; i t is p a r t of t h e

w o n d r o u s p ic tu resqueness . T h e in ter ior , magnif icent out look a n d hote l l u x u r y a re so comming led t h a t n e i t h e r seems t o h a v e been sacrificed t o t h e o the r . T h e a r ch i t ec t , Mr. Bruce Pr ice , m u s t h a v e h a d a cunn ing b ra in t o h a v e t h u s devised th i s q u a i n t l y s h a p e d ho te l , a n d so m a p p e d ou t i ts in ter ior t h a t all t h e offices a n d service rooms , even t h e m a i n e n t r a n c e hal l , w i th i ts pi l lared g a t e w a y , look o u t u p o n t h e i nne r cu rve , l eav ing every b i t of t h e ou t e r circle t h a t faces t h e magni f icen t s t r e t c h of r iver a n d s k y a n d far off hills, t o b e d e v o t e d to gues t rooms . I t was clever a n d difficult p l a n n i n g ; i t requi red a n

T h e G a t e w a y into the Courtyard—Chateau Frontenac

Q U E B E C 9

equa l ly clever a n d difficult furnishing, for t h i s sp lendid edifice possesses a s m a n v in ter ior curves a n d corners as ou te r ones . I t is del ightful ly u n e x p e c t e d in i t s w a y s . R o o m s t h a t a r e bow-shaped , c rescen t - shaped , c i rcular ; r o o m s t h a t a re acu te -ang led , ob tuse-ang led , t r i agona l , s exagona l—eve ry t h i n g excep t r igh t -angled . A n d t h e n t h e s t a i r w a y s — t h e y a re eve rywhere , a n d equa l l y p r e t t y a n d u n i q u e in effect. E v e r y corner t h a t one peeps i n t o a long the se wide, cu rv ing corr idors holds an inv i t ing l i t t le s t a i r w a y — b r i g h t a n d soft, w i th r ich ca rpe t ing a n d oak b a n n i s t e r s — t h a t t e m p t s one t o a scend or d e ­scend jus t t o find where i t leads . Ascend ing t h e m a i n s t a i r w a y , which l eads by easy t u r n s from t h e ves t ibule , we come u p o n one of t h e mos t a r t i s t i c effects in t h e bu i ld ing , for, s t a n d i n g in t h e b r o a d corr idor , beaut i fu l w i t h i t s whi t e panel l ings , oak floor, a n d Axmins t e r , we look b e t w e e n large , c r e a m y , da in t i l y -mou lded pil lars in to t h e long d i awing - room, a n d b e y o n d i t i n t o t h e ladies ' pavi l ion. I t br ings a suggest ion of t h e Rena i s sance , a n d t h e whi te and gold d a y s of Louis Quinze . T h e ladies ' d r awing - room is del ightful . I t is perfec t ly round , of course, w i th those fine s q u a r e ca rven pi l lars forming t h e e n t r a n c e way , a n d a cent ra l r o u n d pil lar s u p p o r t i n g t h e graceful sp r ay of l ights .

In th i s g r a n d hotel , which is now being enlarged , a r e m a n y su i tes , some of t h e m conta in ing as m a n y as e igh t rooms a n d of one t h e following descr ip t ion is g iven: " T w o d a i n t y bed rooms a n d two equal ly d a i n t y b a t h ­rooms, lead from c i ther end of a b o w - s h a p e d boudoir , whose curve is one u n ­broken line of beaut i ful win­dows, c r e a m y p a n e 1 1 i n g s, t i n t ed walls a n d c e i l i n g , deep window s e a t s — a l l these t h e room possesses, b u t one s e e s t h e m n o t ; t h e y

a re a s n o t h i n g E n t r t n c e ( o , h e c h a t e a u F l o „ l e n a c

10 Q U E B E C

compared t o t h e g rea t cu rve of r ad iance t h a t s h i n e s a n d sparkles f r o m t h i s splendid bow of l ight

T h e furni­t u r e is chiefly oak . T h e bed -r o o m furnish­ings are m u c h alike t h r o u g h o u t — h a n d s o m e brass beds teads , o a k furni ture , and cosy uphol -

T h e Courtyard, Chateau Frontenac

s te r ing in each room. " I t i s o n e o f t h e

fea tures of C h a t e a u F r o n t e n a c t h a t , f r o m lowest t o t o p m o s t s t o r y , e v e r y t h i n g is of t h e bes t . I t is equa l ly a fea ture t h a t t h e four th , fifth a n d s ix th s tor ies are more des i rable t h a n t h e lower ones , for t h e h igher one c l imbs , t h e wider t h e p a n o r a m a of r iver a n d sky t h a t unrol l s t o one ' s view.

Dufferin Terrace .

T h e p r ide a n d glory of Quebec is Dufferin Te r r ace , an unr iva l l ed p r o m e n a d e a n d publ ic

A Comer in the Courtyard, Chateau'Frontenac

Q U E B E C 11

rendezvous . F r o m it , or be t t e r , from a n y of t h e windows in t h e C h a t e a u F r o n t e n a c , which s t a n d s a t i ts eas te rn l imit a n d a t t h e base of t h e Citadel , a view, unsurpassed for b e a u t y a n d g randeu r , b u r s t s u p o n t h e beholder . E l e v a t e d 200 feet above t h e S t . Lawrence , which he re con t r ac t s i t s h igh b a n k s un t i l b u t a mile s epa ra t e s t h e m , t h e t e r r ace is a po in t of v a n t a g e from which t o dr ink in t h e feast of scenic sp lendor which is sp read o u t before one. The re is t h e m i g h t y r ive r—on whose w a t e r s float craft of eve ry .desc r ip -

T h e Famous Dufferin Terrace

t ion, from t h e huge ocean liner t o t h e p r imi t ive canoe of t h e I n d i a n s ; across t h e wa te r is Levis , on whose c rowning cliffs, r ising h igher even t h a n those of Quebec , are t h ree immense forts e rec ted b y t h e Br i t i sh G o v e r n m e n t a t a cost approach ing $1,000,000; down t h e s t r e a m is t h e beaut i ful Isle d ' O r l é a n s — t h e Isle of Bacchus ot J a c q u e s Car t ier , a n d at a l a t e r t ime k n o w n as Sorcerer ' s I s land , for in t h e fire-fly l ights t h a t danced over i ts s w a m p s t h e n a t i v e I n d i a n s a n d t h e ea r ly F r e n c h se t t lers saw t h e work of H i s S a t a n i c Majes ty a n d his u n c a n n y followers. F a r t h e r a w a y is Cap T o u r m e n t e , and along t h e shores , a re t h e q u a i n t vil lages of t h e habitants a n d t h e narrowest r ipped farms which

12 Q U E B E C

exc i t e t h e surpr ise a n d cur ios i ty of t h e t rave l le r . T o t h e left t h e St . Char les graceful ly sweeps a n d b lends i ts w a t e r s w i th t h e g rea t e r s t r e a m . Fores t a n d r iver a n d m o u n t a i n a n d c u l t i v a t e d b r o a d acres combine t o m a k e gorgeous l a n d s c a p e , a n d in t h e rea r t o w e r t h e L a u r e n t i a n Hil ls , whose pu rp led cres ts lose t hemse lve s in t h e fleecy c louds . A t one ' s feet a re t h e bus t l ing Lower T o w n a n d t h e sh ips in p o r t , a n d a b o v e is t h e frowning c i tade l whose h o a r y walls e n v i r o n Quebec w i t h a g l a m o u r of r o m a n c e a n d r enown .

T h e b r o a d p r o m e n a d e is fully a q u a r t e r of a mile long, a n d erec ted on it a re five h a n d s o m e k iosks , t o which t h e n a m e s of a Plessis, F r o n t e n a c , L o m e a n d Louise , Dufferin, a n d Victor ia , h a v e been given, bes ides a n o t h e r for t h e use of b a n d s of mus i c , wh ich a t t imes a re t h o s e be longing t o Br i t i sh a n d F r e n c h war sh ips vis i t ing t h e p o r t . A t t h e fu r the r end a succession of smal l s t a i r w a y s l ead t o a n o t h e r p r o m e n a d e a long t h e cliff a n d a r o u n d t h e base of t h e walls of t h e Ci tade l t o connec t t h e Te r r ace w i t h t h e Cove Fie lds , t h e e x t e n d e d p r o m e n ­a d e h a v i n g a t o t a l d i s t ance of n e a r l y 4,000 ft. On these fields, where t h e old F r e n c h e a r t h w o r k s sti l l r ema in , a re t h e finest n a t u r a l golf l inks in Amer i ca .

E v e r y foot of l a n d here is h is tor ic g r o u n d ; t h e v e r y air b r e a t h e s of deeds of v a l o u r a n d mi l i t a ry prowess , which even t h e peaceful a spec t of t h e p resen t , o r t h e h u m a n d bus t l e of e v e r y d a y bus iness n e a r b y , fail to dispel . F o r here t h e K i n g s of old F r a n c e sen t t he i r m e n a n d t r ea su re to bu i ld u p a N e w F r a n c e , on t h i s side of t h e A t l a n t i c , where t he se ga l l an t a d v e n t u r e r s l ived a n d p l o t t e d a n d fough t , a n d wres ted count less leagues of l a n d from t h e savages . Looking d o w n from t h e T e r r a c e front , t h e n a r r o w s t r ee t bea r ing t h e n a m e of t h e founder of Quebec , is seen, a n d i t s long l e n g t h followed, t o t h e foot of t h e Ci tade l cliff, j u s t beyond which is t h e n a r r o w pass where M o n t g o m e r y fell, m o r t a l l y w o u n d e d , whi le heroical ly lead ing his m e n , in a r ash a n d d a r i n g

a t t a c k on t h e c i ty Almos t d i rect ly u n d e r t h e no r the rn end of t h e Ter race , where t h e cliff s t a n d s back far ther from t h e r iver and t h e s t ree t s a re h u d d l e d closer toge ther , is t h e his tor ic Church of No t re D a m e des Victoires . A l i t t le t o t h e s o u t h is t h e Champla in m a r k e t hall , a n d very n e a r i ts site t h e first bu i ld ing in Quebec , which in ­cluded a fort , a residence and s tores , was e rec ted in 1608

b y t h e a d v e n t u r o u s a n d

Champlain Monument, on Dufferin Terrace

Q U E B E C 13

ch iva l rous C h a m p l a i n , whose m e m o r y is p e r p e t u a t e d in a magnif icent s t a t u e on t h e Te r r ace . He re was t h e first c lear ing m a d e ; t h e n e x t was t h a t u p o n a po r t i on of which t h e Cha t eau F r o n t e n a c now s t a n d s , where C h a m p l a i n e rec ted t h e Cha t eau St . Louis , which p l ayed so p r o m i n e n t a p a r t in C a n a d i a n h i s t o ry ; a t a l a t e r e ra be ing t h e cas t le f rom wh ich t h e F r e n c h Governors exercised u n d i s p u t e d sovere ign ty from t h e m o u t h of t h e Mississippi t o t h e g rea t i n l and lakes of C a n a d a , a n d a long t h e shores of t h e S t . Lawrence a n d i ts Gulf. I t s cellar still r e m a i n s u n d e r t h e wooden cover ing of t h e p resen t Dufferin Te r r ace , i m m e d i a t e l y ad jo in ing t h e

. m • ;

i T 1 1 i l I I Iri l i i i i i P'^ > > L-Iii iSt I M t t44fl

Parliament Buildings, Quebec

Cha teau F r o n t e n a c . I n t h e rea r of t h e C h a t e a u S t . Louis w a s t h e a rea of t h e for t n o w covered b y t h e P lace d ' A r m e s a n d a p a r t of t h e ho te l , w h i c h w a s f requent ly a t t a c k e d by t h e in t rep id a n d ferocious I roquo i s , who h a v i n g over ­t h r o w n t h e o u t p o s t s , m o r e t h a n once t h r e a t e n e d t h e F o r t itself. J u s t b e y o n d are t h e h igh -peaked Commissa r i a t bui ld ing of t h e I m p e r i a l G o v e r n m e n t , t h e K e n t H o u s e w h e r e res ided K i n g E d w a r d ' s g r a n d f a t h e r w h e n c o m m a n d a n t of t h e I m p e r i a l forces in C a n a d a , t h e h e a d - q u a r t e r s of M o n t c a l m , a n d t h e p lace where t h e ga l l an t soldier d ied ; t h e old bu i ld ing h a v i n g been rep laced b y a m o d e r n s t r u c t u r e now occupied as a l ivery s tab le a n d n u m b e r e d 45 a n d 47 S t . Lou i s S t r ee t . Across t h e P l ace d ' A r m e s is t h e E n g l i s h C a t h e d r a l , con ­s t r u c t e d soon after t h e Br i t i sh occupa t ion , b y t h e R o y a l Eng inee r s .

14 Q U E B E C

The Citadel

T h e Ci tade l occupies t h e mos t c o m m a n d i n g posi t ion in Quebec , over­looking t h e S t . L a w r e n c e a n d t h e c o u n t r y r o u n d , and h a v i n g a clear range for i ts g u n s in e v e r y d i rec t ion . I t s t a n d s 303 feet above t h e r iver , and a t one t i m e w a s cons idered i m p r e g n a b l e , so m u c h so, t h a t Quebec h a s been somet imes called t h e G i b r a l t a r of Amer ica . T h o u g h still a fortress , i ts p r inc ipa l use is as a b a r r a c k , a n d in it a re k e p t large mi l i t a ry s tores . Access is ga ined to t h e t r e n c h e s b y t h e Cha in ga t e , a n d t o t h e Ci tadel b y t h e Dalhous ie , n a m e d after a former G o v e r n o r . T h e Ci tade l is a b o u t t e n m i n u t e s ' walk from t h e Cha t eau F r o n t e n a c .

T h e Citadel. Quebec

The Governor ' s Garden.

T h e G o v e r n o r ' s G a r d e n , is a pub l i c p a r k a l i t t l e in t h e rear of t h e Dufferin T e r r a c e , a n d b e t w e e n t h e C h a t e a u F r o n t e n a c a n d t h e Ci tadel . I t is a p r e t t y l i t t l e r e t r e a t , a n d in i t is a dual - faced s tone co lumn t o Wolfe a n d M o n t c a l m , e rec ted in 1827 a n d 1828, in jo in t honor of t h e i l lustr ious genera ls , t o w h o m , in t h e words of t h e inscr ip t ion , " V a l o u r g a v e a c o m m o n d e a t h , h i s to ry a com­m o n f ame , a n d p o s t e r i t y a c o m m o n m o n u m e n t . " ^

Q U E B E C 15

Plains of A b r a h a m

T h e Pla ins of A b r a h a m is one of t h e chief po in t s of i n t e r e s t . H e r e was t h e batt lefield where Wolfe fell, a n d Montca lm fought his las t fight. T h e pla in is t h e t ab l e l and on t h e cres t of t h e he igh ts , on t h e n o r t h b a n k of t h e S t . Lawrence R ive r , which were t h o u g h t to be too prec ip i tous for a n e n e m y t o c l imb. T h e he igh t s were, however , qu ie t ly a n d successfully scaled, a n d on 13th Sep t ember , 1759, t h e m e m o r a b l e b a t t l e was fought t he re , which dec ided t h e fate of C a n a d a . A tal l ma rb l e shaf t now s t a n d s t o m a r k t h e spo t where Wolfe fell, m o r t a l l y wounded , a n d bears t h e insc r ip t ion : " H e r e died Wolfe v i c to r i ous . " H i s i l lus t r ious r ival , Mon tca lm, also wounded , r e t r e a t e d w i th in t h e wal ls t o die t h e r e . On t h e p la ins , where some of t h e heav ies t fighting oc­cur red in t h e famous b a t t l e , a re t h r e e Mar te l lo towers , d a t i n g from 1S05. which , whi le fo rmidab ly bu i l t , were w e a k l y c o n s t r u c t e d t o w a r d s t h e c i ty , so t h a t in case of c a p t u r e t h e y m i g h t easi ly be de s t royed . T h e a c t u a l clash b e ­tween t h e t w o a rmies only l as ted a dozen m i n u t e s — s o shor t a t i m e can decide a n a t i o n ' s fate . T h e Br i t i sh line was d r a w n u p , n o t far from t h e new Franc i scan Church , on t h e G r a n d Allée, and t h e F r e n c h were a b o u t for ty y a r d s from t h e m , be ­tween t h e m a n d t h e c i ty . T h e field of t h e b a t t l e is a short a n d p leasan t walk , or d r ive , from t h e hote l , a l i t t le beyond t h e S t . Louis ga t e on t h e r o a d t o Spencerwood, t h e official residence of t h e L ieu t -Governor o f t h e P r o \ i n c e of Quebec , and in olden d a y s t h e h o m e of t h e Governors -Genera l of Canada . A shor t d i s t ance off, on t h e e sca rpmen t ove rhang ing t h e S t . Lawrence , is t h e p a t h by which t h e Br i t i sh t roops scaled t h e cliffs on t h e n igh t before t h e b a t t l e , a n d a t t h e foot of t h e rocks is Wolfe ' s Cove, t w o miles a b o v e which is Sil lery, a place of his tor ical in te res t , where Maisonneuve spen t his first w in t e r in C a n a d a , a n d t h e scene of t h e hor ­rible massac re of Chr is t ian H u r o n s and the i r missionaries , b y savage T - . A » A beautuul ( jroup in rront or the entrance or the IroqUWS i n 1005. Parhament Bui lding, . Quebec

10 Q U E B E C

Short -Wal l ick Monument

The Ursuline Convent .

T h e Ursu l ine C o n v e n t is d i rec t ly connec ted wi th th i s i m p o r t a n t b a t t l e on t h e P la ins of A b r a h a m , b y r eason of i t s con ta in ing the r ema ins of Montca lm, whose b o d y is bur ied in t h e C o n v e n t , while h i s r sku l l is k e p t in t h e chap la in ' s pa r lo r , t o wh ich vis i tors a r e freely a d m i t t e d This , t h e oldest conven t in Quebec , was founded in 1639, de s t royed b y fare in 1650, rebui l t t o mee t a s imi lar fate in 16S6; b u t t h e original founda t ions , a n d t h e walls, of t h e second bu i ld ing , a re still in t h e t h i r d s t r u c t u r e . T h e conven t is a g roup of mass ive s t o n e edifices, of i r regula r des ign, cover ing a n a r e a of seven acres . T h e in ter ior hal ls a n d c h a m b e r s are impos ing . T h e chapel con ta ins t h e remains of M o n t ­ca lm, a n d w h a t a re c la imed t o be t h e following relics. T h e b o d y of St . Clement f rom t h e C a t a c o m b s of R o m e , b r o u g h t t o t h e Ursul ines in 1687; t h e skull of one of t h e compan ions of S t . Ur su l a 1675; t h e skull of St . J u s t u s , 1662; a piece of t h e H o l y Cross, 1657; a por t ion of t h e Crown of Thorns , b rough t from Pa r i s in 1S30. I t is open t o v is i tors , who m a y t h e r e see some rare works of a r t , inc lud ing p a i n t i n g s b y V a n d y k , R i s tou l , a n d C h a m p a g n y , t h e p r o p e r t y of

t h e Sis ters of t h e Conven t .

The Hotel Dieu.

T h e H o t e l Dieu , a c o n v e n t a n d a hosp i ta l , founded in 1639 b y Duchess D 'Argui l lon , a niece of Card ina l Riche l ieu , is t h e m o s t a n c i e n t i n s t i t u t i on of i t s k i n d in Amer ica , a n d h a s recen t ly been modern ized . I n th i s h i s t o r i c s t r u c t u r e a re some famous old p i c tu re s , a m o n g s t wh ich a r e : T h e N a t i v i t y , b y Stel la , t h e Virgin a n d Child (Noel Coypol ) , Vision of S te . The resa (Guel M o n a g h t ) , t h e Des ­cen t from t h e Cross (copy b y P l a m o n d o n ) , e t c . I n t h e chape l of t h e conven t is t h e skull of J e a n de Brebceuf, t h e g r e a t J e su i t miss ion­a ry , of whose doings P a r k m a n a n d Char levoix h a v e given a m o s t in te r ­es t ing a n d t r u s t w o r t h y a c c o u n t . T h e e s t a b l i s h m e n t i s o p e n t o vis i tors , on app l i ca t ion t o t h e L a d y Super ior .

QUEBEC 17

Literary Treasures .

T h e l ibrar ies of Q u e b e c a r e r ich in l i t e r a ry t r easu res , a n d c o n t a i n m a n y rare old books which a re m o s t in te res t ing t o t h e s t u d e n t of a n t i q u a r i a n lore . T h e legislat ive L i b r a r y in t h e P a r l i a m e n t Bui ld ings , a n d t h a t of L a v a l Un ive r ­s i ty , a re t h e t w o m o s t p r e t e n t i o u s in t h e c i ty . I n t h e l a t t e r a re over 10,000 va luable volumes . T h e l i t e ra ry a n d His tor ica l Socie ty h a s also a n i nva luab l e collection in t h e Morr in College, a n d t h e F r e n c h Society , l ' I n s t i t u t C a n a d i e n , has a fine L i b r a r y in t h e c i t y ha l l . These a re open t o t h e publ ic .

The Basilica and Cardinal ' s Palace

Fac ing t h e his tor ic old m a r k e t squa re , which d a t e s b a c k t o 16S6, where in olden t imes s tood t h e publ ic pi l lory, is t h e Basi l ica, t h e m o t h e r chu rch of R o m a n Cathol ic ism in N o r t h Amer ica . I t s e rec t ion was c o m m e n c e d in 1647, and since its definite opening in 1657, services h a v e been he ld in i t u n i n t e r ­rup ted ly , excep t du r ing t h e per iod requi red for m a k i n g repa i r s necess i t a t ed b y t h e d i sas t rous siege of t h a t y e a r . T h e design of t h e chance l is in fai thful imi ­t a t i o n of t h a t of S t . P e t e r ' s a t R o m e . O n i t s walls h a n g s a rich col lect ion of pa in t ings , m a n y of t h e m priceless works of a r t , which were rescued from des t ruc t ion du r ing t h e Re ign of T e r r o r in F r a n c e , w h e n t h e m o b pi l laged churches and monas te r i e s . A m o n g s t o t h e r pa in t ings is V a n d y k ' s Chr is t on t h e Cross, P l a m o n d o n ' s S t e . A n n e , a n d t h e T o m b of t h e S a v i o u r , F l e u r e t s ' Christ s u b m i t t i n g t o t h e Soldiers, T h e H o l y F a m i l y by Jacques B lancha rd . T h e Annunc i a t i on b y J e a n R e s t o u t , e tc . , e tc . Adjo in ing t h e Basil ica a n d L a v a l is t h e Card ina l ' s Pa lace . I n i t s g r a n d salon de reception a re t h e Card ina l ' s t h r o n e , and ra re gifts from t h e P o p e .

Seminary and Laval Universi ty.

T h e S e m i n a r y of Quebec was founded in 1 6 6 3 b y Lava l , t h e first a p p o i n t e d p re la te of C a n a d a . T h e bui ld ings a r e v a l u e d a t $1,000,000, a n d consist of

IS Q U E B E C

four la rge wings five s tor ies h igh . T h e i n s t i t u t i on includes t h e G r a n d and P e t i t Seminar ies , t h e l a t t e r be ing especial ly in te res t ing t o Amer icans from t h e fact t h a t t h e officers u n d e r M o n t g o m e r y a n d Arno ld who were c a p t u r e d dur ing t h e siege of 1775 were inca rce ra ted in i t . T h e g r a n d Semina ry , k n o w n as L a v a l Un ive r s i t y , is t h e chief F r e n c h - C a n a d i a n un ive r s i ty , a n d t h e oldest in C a n a d a . Lava l h a s a n excel lent m u s e u m a n d l ib ra ry , a n d m a n y a r t t r easures in i t s keep ing . I n i ts gal lery of p a i n t i n g s — a m i n i a t u r e Va t i can collection, are

Market in Q u e b e c — A n attractive place for tourists

t w o S a l v a t o r R o s a s , t h r e e Tenie rs , a R o m m e n e l i , a J o s e p h Verne t , a Puge t , t w o V a n d y k e s , a Perocc Pouss in , a n d m a n y o t h e r mas te rp ieces .

Chien D'Or.

I n t h e n o r t h e r n facade of t h e post-office is t h e gilt figure of a dog gnawing a bone , a b o u t which ex is t s a l egend , which K i r b y has woven in to a c h a r m i n g r o m a n c e . U n d e r t h e F r e n c h reg ime the re s tood on t h e s i te now occupied b y t h e post-office, t h e house a n d s h o p of P h i l i b e r t . a w e a l t h y m e r c h a n t , h o w w a g e d c o m m e r c i a l w a r on t h e c o r r u p t c o m p a n y of N e w F r a n c e , n i c k n a m e d b y

Q U E B E C 19

t h e farmers " L a F r i p o n e . " T h e real h e a d of th i s c o m p a n y was I n t e n d a n t Bigot , whose t h r e a t s aga in s t Ph i l ibe r t resu l ted in t h e l a t t e r p lac ing ove r his door a scu lp tu red t ab le t , w i th an inscr ip t ion of which t h e following is a t r a n s la t ion :

I a m a dog gnawing a bone , Whi le I gnaw I t a k e m y repose, T h e t i m e will come, t h o u g h not ye t , W h e n I will b i te h im who would h a v e b i t t e n m e .

Ph i l ibe r t was assass ina ted , a n d t h e preva i l ing impress ion w a s t h a t i t was a t t h e ins t igat ion of Bigot .

The English Cathedra l . T h e Eng l i sh C a t h e d r a l was e rec ted in t h e first y e a r s of t h e 19th c e n t u r y

b y t h e Br i t i sh G o v e r n m e n t , a n d is in te res t ing , n o t for i ts a r c h i t e c t u r a l b e a u t y , b u t for its his tor ic associat ion a n d for t h e sp lendor of i ts m u r a l m o n u m e n t s , chancel windows , a n d e l a b o r a t e solid s i lver c o m m u n i o n s e rv i ce ,—the l a t t e r cost ing $10,000 a n d was a p resen t from K i n g George I I I .

St. Louis Gate , Q u e b e c

The City's Gates and Wal l s . T h e ga tes which pierce t h e fort if ications a re c o m p a r a t i v e l y m o d e r n

s t r u c t u r e s — K e n t a n d St . L o u i s — t h e former be ing n a m e d af ter t h e D u k e of K e n t , g r a n d f a t h e r of K i n g E d w a r d , who in 1 7 9 1 ^ , was c o m m a n d e r of t h e Br i t i sh forces in C a n a d a . S t . J o h n ' s , rebui l t in 1867, was demol i shed in t h e s u m m e r of 1897 t o give r i gh t of way t o t h e i n v a d i n g electr ic car . T h e las t vest ige of t h e original p o r t a l s — S t . Louis , P a l a c e a n d S t . J o h n — d i s a p p e a r e d

20 Q U E B E C

in 1871, a n d t h e s t r u c t u r e s w i t h which t h e y a re replaced , w i t h H o p e (1786) a n d P r e s c o t t (1815) ga te s , bu i l t b y t h e Br i t i sh since t h e Conques t h a v e , w i th in r ecen t y e a r s , m e t a s imi lar fa te , w i t h t h e excep t ion of St . Louis , which was e rec ted in 1879.

T h e walls of t h e c i ty , which afford a p l e a s a n t p r o m e n a d e , can b e r eached b y s tone s teps a t e i the r S t . Louis or K e n t ga tes o r a long t h e glacis a t t h e E s p l a n a d e . A n e x p a n s e of t ree-fr inged v e r d u r e e x t e n d s from St . Louis g a t e t o t h e site of S t . J o h n ' s g a t e . T h e walk on t h e wal l s ' can b e e x t e n d e d , in one d i rec t ion t o t h e Ci tadel , a n d in t h e o t h e r t o where t h e St . J o h n ' s ga t e once s tood .

Church of Notre Dame Des Victoires.

T h i s h is tor ic l i t t le edifice is one of t h e in te res t ing s ights of t h e Lower T o w n , h a v i n g been pa r t i a l l y de s t royed b y the^fire of t h e Levis ba t t e r i e s du r ing Wolfe ' s siege of Quebec in 1759, a n d s u b s e q u e n t l y rebui l t on i ts old walls . T h e fête of N o t r e D a m e de la Victoi re was es tab l i shed in sacred c o m m e m o r a t i o n of defea t of t h e Br i t i sh invade r s u n d e r Genera l P h i p p s , in 1690, t o be a n n u a l l y ce lebra ted in t h e chu rch on Oc tobe r 7 t h , a n d af ter t h e sh ipwreck of t h e second Br i t i sh i n v a d i n g fleet, four teen y e a r s l a te r . Th i s t h e F r e n c h i n h a b i t a n t s re­g a r d e d as a mi racu lous in te rpos i t ion of P rov idence in the i r favor, a n d t h e edifice g iven t h e n a m e it bea r s .

Historic Ru ins .

O v e r in t h e va l ley of t h e S t . Char les , t h e g a u n t ru ins of t h e famed Cha t eau

Bigot still r emain . T h e lodge in which per i shed by poison a t t h e ins t iga t ion of

h e r f a i r r i v a l ,

y o u n g Caroline de

St . C a s t i n , t h e

beaut i ful mis t ress

of t h e profl igate

I n t e n d a n t , still

s t a n d s in t h e m i d s t

of t h e forest l a b y ­

r i n t h ; b u t t h e ru ins

give on ly a faint

concept ion of t h e

original bui ld ing .

T h e gir l was t h e

d a u g h t e r of a gen t ­

l eman of Acad ia ,

a n d h a d been in- i

R u i n , of the Chateau B i 8 o i duced b y B igo t ' s

Q U E B E C 2 1

fair promises t o fly from her h o m e only t o b e held a pr i soner in t h e Cha t eau unt i l her t rag ic d e a t h . A n o t h e r of Bigot ' s palaces s tood wi th in a s tone ' s t h r o w of t h e Canad i an Pacific R a i l w a y s t a t ion , i t s solid founda t ion wall being uti l ized by a brewing c o m p a n y , in t h e erect ion of one of i ts offices.

F r o m Levis , a magnif icent view of Quebec a n d i ts su r round ings can be ob t a ined . T h e mi l i t a ry for ts , on t h e he igh t s above , from which , du r ing t h e s u m m e r of 1759, t h e cannon of t h e Engl i sh b o m b a r d e d t h e ci ty w i t h sho t a n d shell, un t i l t h e whole of t h e Lower T o w n was a confused m a s s of ru ins , a re w o r t h vis i t ing, a n d so is t h e Eng inee r ' s C a m p a t S t . Jo seph de Levis—• magnif icent ly wooded m e a d o w s , once t h e camping g round of t h e R o y a l Eng inee r s , whose n a m e it has con t inued t o bear . A n electr ic R a i l w a y mee t s all b o a t s a t t h e ferry, a n d t h e n p r o ­ceeds eas t a long t h e r iver b a n k t o F r a s e r S t ree t , where it begins t o cl imb to t h e t o p of t h e cliff; here it t u r n s , a n d r u n s b a c k t o w a r d s t h e ferry on t h e h igher level. T h e view from th i s po in t is one of t h e finest imaginab le , for it is possible t o see b o t h u p a n d down t h e r iver from one place . Across t h e river are seen t h e vil lages of B e a u p o r t a n d M o n t m o r e n c y , t h e beaut i ful church of t h e former lifting i t s tw in spires aga ins t t h e pu rp le m o u n t a i n s ; t o t h e r igh t t h e heav i ly wooded end of t h e I s l and of Or leans ; while t o t h e left, t h e Cha teau F r o n t e n a c a n d t h e mass ive s tone fortress are ou t ­lined aga ins t t h e sky.

A n o t h e r in te res t ing excurs ion t o be m a d e a t Levis is round t h e t h r e e m o d e r n forts , bu i l t on t h e he igh t s beh ind t h e town . T h e mos t eas ter ly , cons t ruc t ed b y t h e R o y a l Eng ineers , c o m m a n d s t h e app roaches u p t h e r iver , while t h e o the r s , bu i l t b y t h e Domin ion G o v e r n m e n t , h a v e a n u n ­surpassed view for for ty miles t o t h e sou th over a n a t u r a l glacis.

Falls o{ MoDlmorency

Q U E B E C

Isle D'Orléans.

A sail d o w n t h e r iver t o th i s beaut i fu l island, where a n u m b e r of wea l thy Quebece r s h a v e s u m m e r res idences , is one of t h e a t t r a c t i o n s which should no t be missed , a n d an a f te rnoon can be p leasan t ly spent , b y t ak ing s t eamer im­m e d i a t e l y af ter l uncheon , a n d r e t u r n i n g to t h e Cha teau F r o n t e n a c in t ime for d inner .

The Falls of Montmorency .

These a re s i t u a t e d a b o u t seven miles below Quebec . The dr ive to t h e m , a favor i te t r i p w i t h all v i s i to rs—is t h r o u g h a n a l m o s t con t inuous succession of F r e n c h C a n a d i a n fa rms a n d co t t ages . O n t h e road is B e a u p o r t , a place b o m ­b a r d e d b y Wolfe , a n d now con t a in ing one of t h e pr inc ipa l Canad ian hospi ta ls for t h e insane . T h e Fa l l s of M o n t m o r e n c y are over 100 feet h igher t h a n those of N iaga ra , a n d in former yea r s a large cone of ice, which was f requent ly ut i l ized b y p leasu re p a r t i e s f rom Quebec a n d o t h e r p a r t s of C a n a d a , a s a t oboggan slide, u sua l ly fo rmed a t t h e foot. At t h e h e a d of t h e Fal ls is K e n t House , t h e res idence whi le in Quebec of t h e D u k e of K e n t , g r a n d f a t h e r of K i n g E d w a r d V I I . T h e r e a re also t o b e seen t h e Zoological G a r d e n s , owned by H o l t , Renfrew & Co., Quebec , which were opened a shor t t i m e ago. W i t h i n t h e last y e a r or t w o t h e y h a v e been cons iderab ly en la rged , a n d can now be looked u p o n as con t a in ing one of t h e bes t col lect ions of Canad i an live an ima l s to be seen a n y w h e r e . T h e la tes t a d d i t i o n to t h e l a t t e r is t h e Beave r Colony where t h e an ima l s a re g iven eve ry o p p o r t u n i t y t o en joy the i r freedom in an enclosed valley w i th a p r e t t y b rook r u n n i n g t h r o u g h it . A t M o n t m o r e n c y m a y be

Playing Golf on Historical Ground

Q U E B E C 23

seen a succession of rocky ledges which seem to h a v e been cu t o u t of t h e solid rock ages ago a n d forming n a t u r a l s t eps abou t a mile above t h e Fal l s , where t h e r iver dashes wildly t h r o u g h a deep canon , a n d c o n s t i t u t e t h e g r a n d e s t fea tures of M o n t m o r e n c y . T h e tou r i s t m a y also go t o M o n t m o r e n c y b y t h e Quebec Elec t r ic Ra i lway .

The Quebec Qolf Club.

W h a t will be of especial in te res t to t ou r i s t s is t h e knowledge t h a t in con­nec t ion w i t h t h e Cha t eau F r o n t e n a c is t h e Quebec Golf Club L inks . T h e m o s t in te res t ing fea ture of these splendid l inks is t h e fact t h a t t h e y form p a r t of t h e original b a t t l e field of t h e P la ins of A b r a h a m . F r o m a golfing po in t of view, pu re a n d s imple , t h e y a b s o r b one ' s a t t e n t i o n , because t h e t o p o g r a p h y being of such a var ied n a t u r e , r ender s t h e m e m i n e n t l j ' fitted for e n j o y m e n t of t h e spor t , a lmos t eve ry species of h a z a r d be ing p re sen t a t one po in t or o t h e r of t h e course. Scenery we a d m i t h a s few c h a r m s for t h e golfer, b u t a n y one who has t r ave r sed th i s h is tor ic g round c a n n o t fail to b e impressed w i th t h e r emarkab le view.

T h e ru ins of Mon tca lm ' s old fortifications form some of t h e h a z a r d s , t h e old m a s o m y is still visible in var ious places . T h e second green be ing inside one of t h e forts of 200 years ago . T h e Quebec a n d Mon t r ea l l inks m a y b e called t h e pioneers of t h e R o y a l a n d Anc ien t g a m e on th i s c o n t i n e n t , these clubs being founded in 1874 a n d 1875 respec t ive ly , t h o u g h records p r o v e t h e g a m e was p layed b y ind iv idua ls some yea r s p rev ious .

Gues t s of t h e Cha t eau F r o n t e n a c h a v e only t o a p p l y a t t h e office for permission to p l ay over these l inks on p a y m e n t of a smal l fee.

La Bonne Ste. Anne .

T h e shr ine of S te . A n n e de B e a u p r é , for over 250 y e a r s t h e r endezvous of d e v o u t pi lgr ims seeking res tora t ion of hea l t h , is t w e n t y - o n e miles from Quebec , a n d is reached b y t h e Quebec Elec t r ic R a i l w a y , which closely follows t h e b a n k of t h e St . Lawrence , or by s t e a m e r in s u m m e r . T r a d i t i o n re la tes t h a t in t h e early p a r t of t h e s e v e n t e e n t h c e n t u r y some B r e t o n m a r i n e r s , who were over ­t a k e n b y a violent s to rm while nav iga t i ng t h e St . L a w r e n c e , so lemnly vowed to S te . Anne t h a t , if de l ivered from t h e danger s which encompassed t h e m , t h e y would erect a s a n c t u a r y in her honor on t h e spo t on which t h e y should l a n d . The i r p r aye r s being h e a r d , t h e y bu i l t a smal l wooden chapel in fulfilment of the i r vows, which h a s since become famous . T h e p r i m i t i v e l i t t le chu rch was r e ­placed by a larger s t r u c t u r e in 1660, which was s u b s e q u e n t l y en la rged; t h e n , af ter a b o u t a c e n t u r y ' s ex i s tence , it was a lmos t en t i r e ly rebui l t in 1787, a n d again in 1878, a n d conve r t ed in to a chapel—st i l l occupy ing i ts original si te nea r t h e " sac red sp r ing , " whose w a t e r s h a v e , it is c la imed, mi racu lous p r o p e r -

24 Q U E B E C

t ies . Across t h e s t ree t , in wide con t r a s t t o th i s u n p r e t e n t i o u s bui ld ing , is t h e magnif icent edifice which a l t h o u g h opened for pub l ic worsh ip in 1S76, a n d raised t o t h e d i g n i t y of a Basi l ica b y P o p e P ius I X . t e n y e a r s la ter , was n o t ent i re ly comple t ed un t i l 1889. I t is a fine specimen of Cor in th ian a rch i t ec tu re , a n d is of i m m e n s e p ropor t i ons . A colossal s t a t u e of S te . A n n e , of marve l lous b e a u t y , s u r m o u n t s t h e facade b e t w e e n t w i n towers r ising t o a g rea t he igh t . T h e in­te r io r of t h e sacred edifice r ivals t h e m o s t f amous c a t h e d r a l s in t h e world in b e a u t y a n d impos ing g r a n d e u r , t h e magni f icen t pa in t ings a n d s t a t u a r y re­p re sen t ing different scenes in t h e life of Chr is t . On each side of t h e en t r ance a re large p y r a m i d s of c ru tches , a n d canes , and t russes , a n d s p l i n t s left b y former owne r s as m u t e t e s t i m o n y t o t h e efficacy of t h e s a in t ' s i n t e rven t ion on the i r behalf. N e a r t h e a l t a r is a n o t h e r s t a t u e of S te . Anne , res t ing on a co lumn of o n y x , a n d in t h e s a n c t u a r y a f ragment of a finger-bone of t h e sa in t p rocured

Famous Church of Ste. A n n e de Beaupré

b y L a v a l , t h e first B i shop of New F r a n c e ; a p a r t of t h e s a in t ' s wris t , sen t b y Leo X I I I ; a n d a po r t i on of t h e rock from t h e g r o t t o in which Ste . A n n e gave b i r t h t o t h e Virgin Mary , besides m a n y va luab le gifts from dis t inguished per­sonages , a m o n g s t which is a s u p e r b chasuble , t h e work a n d gift of A n n e of Aus t r ia , Queen of F r a n c e a n d m o t h e r of Louis X I V . T h e Scala S a n t a , " h o l y s t a i r , " which t h e zealous s u p p l i a n t s ascend u p o n the i r knees , is bu i l t in imi ta ­t ion of P i l a t e ' s Pa l ace a t J e rusa l em, each s t ep con ta in ing relics of t h e H o l y L a n d . Over half a mill ion tour i s t s a n n u a l l y visit th i s f ragment of the old t i m e Pa les t ine , impel led b y t h e religious ceremonies wi tnessed the re and t h e cost ly works of a r t possessed b y t h e s a n c t u a r y ; a n d t h e h igh es teem in which t h e p a t r o n sa in t is he ld is shown b y t h e r e m a r k a b l e increase in t h e perennia l pi l ­g r i m a g e s t o he r shr ine . F o r m e r l y t h e p i lgr images were from t h e Prov ince of Q u e b e c only ; b u t now t h e y a re from t h e o the r provinces of Canada , and

Q U E B E C 25

from t h e U n i t e d S ta te s , E u r o p e , a n d in fact from all q u a r t e r s of t h e g l o b e . Accommoda t ion is p rov ided for visi tors on a large scale. Six miles a w a y are t h e beautiful falls of S te . Anne , a n d beyond t h e m again are t h e Seven Fal ls . C a p T o u r m e n t e a n d Grosse Isle can be seen from Ste . A n n e de Beaupré .

Lorette.

L o r e t t e is a n o t h e r p lace t o which visi tors are fond of dr iving. I t is a n I n d i a n Village on the St . Char les River , a b o u t nine miles from Quebec , a n d the re are some beau t i fu l falls in t h e immed ia t e ne ighborhood , differing widely from t h e c a t a r a c t of Montmorency , b u t equa l ly s t r ik ing in the i r b e a u t y . He re will be found the r e m n a n t of t h e once powerful H u r o n s , who , af ter t h e t r eacherous massacre of the i r t r ibe by t h e I roquois , sought refuge n e a r Quebec , and adop t ing t h e religion a n d l anguage of t h e (.•arly F rench se t t le rs , allied t h e m ­selves w i th t h e m , in resis t ing t h e incursions of t h e c o m m o n e n e m y . T h e vil lage was first se t t l ed in 1697. T h e L o r e t t e Chape l , nea r ly 200 y e a r s old , is of t h e s a m e mode l a n d d i m e n ­sions as t h a t of t h e S a n t a Casa, from which t h e image of t h e Virgin, a copy of t h a t in t h e famous s a n c t u a r y , was sen t t o t h e I n d i a n s .

I n e v e r y d i rec t ion a r o u n d Quebec t h e c o u n t r y affords c h a r m i n g dr ives , a n d a t t h e F r e n c h - C a n a d i a n vil lages, which occur wi th m o r e or less f requency, a s t r a n g e r will b e ab l e t o c o m p a r e t h e pecul ia r i t ies of life a m o n g s t a peop le who , more t h a n a n y o t h e r in Amer ica , h a v e p rese rved t h e t r a d i t i o n s of then-ances tors , w i th t h e essent ia l ly m o d e r n cus toms a n d lines of t h o u g h t which charac te r ize t h e ru ra l s e t t l e m e n t s of o t h e r p a r t s of t h e c o n t i n e n t .

Down the Gulf. A p leasan t t r i p down t h e r iver a n d Gulf of S t . Lawrence is afforded t h e

vis i tor t o Quebec . Pass ing Cap T o u r m e n t e and Grosse Is le , t h e q u a r a n t i n e

Monument erected to the French and English Soldters who fell at Quebec

26 Q U E B E C

s t a t i o n for Quebec , a n d indeed for t h e en t i r e S t . L a w r e n c e t r a d e , m a n y i s l ands of r e m a r k a b l e scenic b e a u t y d o t t h e r iver . M u r r a y B a y , R iv iè re d u L o u p , C a c o u n a a n d T a d o u s a c , a t t h e m o u t h of t h e S a g u e n a y , a re fashionable w a t e r i n g resor t s , w i th good ho te l a c c o m o d a t i o n a n d exce l len t b a t h i n g facilities. T h e t r i p can be e x t e n d e d d o w n t h e Gulf t o P r ince E d w a r d I s l and a n d t o S t . J o h n ' s , N e w f o u n d l a n d , Ha l i f ax , N . S., a n d to New York , Bos ton a n d o t h e r A m e r i c a n p o r t s .

Quebec in Win te r .

W h i l e Quebec is p r e - e m i n e n t l y a c h a r m i n g s u m m e r resor t a n d a c i ty of

u n u s u a l i n t e re s t a t all t imes , it offers t o m a n y , p e r h a p s , i ts chief a t t r a c t i o n s

d u r i n g t h e w i n t e r m o n t h s in i ts " p u r e a r r a y of regal e rmine , w h e n t h e dr i f ted

snow enve lopes N a t u r e . " I t is t h e n t h a t t h e n a t i v e popu la t ion gives itself u p

very l a rge ly to those forms of social a n d phys ica l e n j o y m e n t which a re cha rac ­

te r i s t ic of i t s p i c t u r e s q u e life a n d e n v i r o n m e n t . T h e n too , t h e a t m o s p h e r e is

a t i t s p u r e s t a n d bes t a n d defies t h e ex is tence of insomnia , m a l a r i a a n d diseases

of t h e r e s p i r a t o r y o rgans . I n s t e a d of t h e e n e r v a t i n g c l ima te of t h e S o u t h ,

t h a t m a k e s exe r t i on of e v e r y k ind a b u r d e n , phys ica l exercise in Quebec ,

d u r i n g t h e season of frost a n d snow, is a pos i t ive p l easu re . T h e m o r e one

walks , or s k a t e s , o r d r ives , or t r a m p s on skis , or snow-shoes , t h e m o r e t e m p t a ­

t ion t h e r e is t o r epea t t h e exper ience . T h e b rac ing air of t h e Canad i an win ter

is t h e ve ry el ixir of life, ennui a n d ene rva t i on giving w a y t o exh i l a ra t ion a n d

h e a l t h . T h e lungs e x p a n d t o t h e e n o r m o u s inha la t ions of oxygen , a n d t h e

purified a n d b r i g h t e n e d blood courses freer a n d more inv igora t ing ly t h r o u g h

t h e veins . Clad in r a i m e n t bef i t t ing t h e c l imate , w i th a c c o m p a n i m e n t s of

t h e beaut i fu l furs t h a t a r e h e r e so fashionable , d i scomfor t is ab so lu t e ly u n ­

k n o w n , a n d l u x u r y a n d exh i l a r a t i on are t h e order of t h e d a y . S t r a n g e r s who

des i re t o p a r t i c i p a t e t he re in a re w a r m l y welcomed b y t h e different w i n t e r

c lubs , a n d qu ick ly in i t ia ted in to t h e var ious forms of local spor t . Ska t i ng , on

t h e different r inks , is cont in­

uously in progress here du r ing

t h e w in t e r m o n t h s . T h e r e a re

b o t h indoor a n d o u t d o o r r inks ,

to which g u e s t t i cke t s of

admiss ion m a y be had by non­

res iden ts for t h e ask ing , and t h e

fancy s k a t i n g da i ly wi tnessed

here is a lone well wor th a long

j o u r n e y to see.

T h e m o s t exc i t ing win t e r

L a u W Curlins C lub . Q u e b e c g a m e of Quebec is hockey ,

Q U E B E C 27

which , w i t h t h e possible excep t ion of polo , is t h e fastest k n o w n to lovers of a t h l e t i c spo r t . Quebec h a s t w o cur l ing r inks a n d m a n y lovers a n d exce l len t p layers of t h e ' roa r in ' g a m e . Toboggan ing down t h e hills of t h e Cove Fie lds t h a t form p a r t of t h e his tor ic P la ins of A b r a h a m , or a t M o n t m o r e n c y Fa l l s , is a favor i te a m u s e m e n t wi th Quebecers , a n d a th r i l l ing exper ience for vis i tors . Sle ighing is also a ve ry fashionable a m u s e m e n t a n d t h e roads r o u n d a b o u t t h e c i ty are k e p t in excel lent condi t ion . I n t h e s t r ee t s h u n d r e d s of carioles, quee r l i t t l e s leds pecul iar t o t h i s q u a i n t old p lace , d a s h a long , t h e i r j ingl ing bells filling t h e air wi th s i lvery mus ic . T h e var ious snow-shoe c lubs c o n t r i b u t e la rge ly t o t h e social life a n d e n j o y m e n t in t h e w in t e r season. T h e long n ight t r a m p s to the i r c o u n t r y rendezvous , are often h e a d e d b y a bugle b a n d , and t h e y presen t a h ighly p i c tu resque a p p e a r a n c e , t r a m p i n g in I n d i a n file over t h e snow, clad in t h e i r mul t i -co lored b l a n k e t su i t s , a n d bear ing to rches . Ski ing is also a fashionable source of a m u s e m e n t , a n d is y e a r l y g rowing in p o p u l a r favor.

T h e heal thfulness of t h e win te r c l imate is one of t h e a t t r a c t i v e fea tures of Quebec . Dr . Grond in . Professor of t h e U n i v e r s i t y of Lava l , a n d one of t h e leading phys ic ians of t h e Prov ince , es tab l i shes t h i s in a l e t t e r t o an enqu i r e r from t h e Un i t ed S t a t e s . T h e Doc to r wr i t e s :

" D E A R S I R , — I n compl iance w i th y o u r des i re t o k n o w m y opin ion on t h e influence t h a t o u r Canad i an win te rs h a v e on h e a l t h in genera l a n d m o r e espec­ially on cer ta in diseases . I d o no t h e s i t a t e t o dec la re t h a t Quebec in p a r t i c u l a r , owing t o i ts a l t i t u d e , has a pu re a n d r e m a r k a b l e a t m o s p h e r e , a d r y a n d r egu­lar cold, which agrees a d m i r a b l y wi th those pred isposed t o c o n s u m p t i o n .

" F o r e i g n doc to r s a t t imes send, a n d r igh t ly so. some of t h e i r p a t i e n t s suffering from p u l m o n a r y compla in t s t o a cold c l ima te .where t h e t e m p e r a t u r e varies bu t l i t t le , a m i I h a v e a sked myself, w h y d o not t h e Amer i can d o c t o r s send thei r subjec ts here where t h e good c l imate , a n d t h e excep t iona l b e a u t y of t h e place, would readi ly b r ing a b o u t good a n d beneficial r e su l t s .

HOW TO GO TO QUEBEC

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Q u e b e c is eas i ly r e a c h e d from all d i rec t ions . F r o m Mont rea l , wh ich m a y be r ega rded a s t h e s t a r t i n g p o i n t for t h e lower S t . L a w r e n c e , t h e r e is a choice of rou tes b y rail a n d r iver. B y t h e Canad i an Pacific R a i l w a y (from P lace Viger passenger s t a t i o n ) , it is a b o u t four -and a half h o u r s ' r u n a long t h e b a n k of t h e St . L a w r e n c e r iver , t h r o u g h t h e old F r e n c h s e t t l e m e n t s t h a t in m a n y places , a re a l m o s t a s p r i m i t i v e as in t h e d a y s of C h a m p l a i n a n d F r o n t e n a c . T h e r a i l w a y r u n s d i r ec t ly u n d e r t h e walls of t h e old fort if icat ions, a n d y e t in to

h e c i ty , wh ich h a s la rge ly o u t g r o w n t h e a r ea enclosed w i th in t h e defences. T h e G r a n d T r u n k a n d t h e In te rco lon ia l R a i l w a y s , on t h e o t h e r side of t h e St . L a w r e n c e , r u n t o Levis d i rec t ly oppos i t e Quebec , t h e r iver being crossed b y s t e a m ferry. D u r i n g t h e season of n a v i g a t i o n , t h e s t e amer s of t h e Richel ieu & O n t a r i o N a v i g a t i o n Co. p l y b e t w e e n Mon t r ea l a n d Quebec . Tour i s t s from t h e N e w E n g l a n d S t a t e s , w h o d o n o t wish t o visi t Mont rea l , can reach t h e anc i en t Cap i t a l b y w a y of She rb rooke , t h e n c e v ia t h e Quebec Cen t ra l o r G r a n d T r u n k R a i l w a y s , or b y Dudswel l J u n c t i o n , and thence b y Quebec Cen t r a l t o Levis . T h o s e from t h e Mar i t ime Prov inces r each Levis , e i the r b y t h e Canad i an Pacific S h o r t L ine t o Megan t ic , a n d t hence b y t h e Quebec Cent ra l , or b y t h e I n t e r ­colonial R a i l w a y ; a n d , in s u m m e r , t h e C a n a d i a n Pacific S t eamsh ips , from Liverpoo l a n d E u r o p e a n po r t s , m a k e Quebec the i r Canad i an po r t .

A Quebec C . l e c h e

M O N T R E A L The Commercial Metropolis of Canada.

T h e ma jo r i t y of visi tors to Quebec do no t fail t o m a k e a t r i p t o t h e c o m ­merc ia l me t ropo l i s of C a n a d a , Mont rea l , t h e la rges t c i t y in C a n a d a , a n d s e c o n d only t o Quebec in h is tor ic in te res t . I t is p i c tu re sque ly s i t u a t e d on a n i s l and in t h e St . L a w r e n c e R i v e r a t t h e h e a d of ocean n a v i g a t i o n , a n d y e t o v e r 600 miles in land , a n d is t h e commerc ia l met ropol i s and t h e ra i lway cen t re of t h e Domin ion . Mont rea l r a n k s a m o n g s t t h e m o s t beaut i fu l ci t ies of t h e con ­t inen t , a n d has ve ry m a n y a t t r a c t i v e a n d his tor ic spots which c a n n o t fail t o in te res t a n d de l igh t s ightseers . I t d i s t inc t ive ly p r e s e n t s al l t h e a s p e c t s a n d e lements of m e t r o p o l i t a n life, w i th evidences of m a t e r i a l , w e a l t h a n d p ros ­p e r i t y on eve ry h a n d . P re - eminen t ly a c i ty of c h u r c h e s , s u r p a s s i n g B r o o k ­lyn itself in th i s respect , in t h e mids t of t h e bus t l e of t h e c i ty ' s c o m m e r c e are g r a y sanc tuar ies a n d s t a t e ly ca thed ra l s which r ival t h e g r andes t edifices of E u r o p e in sp lendor a n d his tor ic in teres t . T h e c a t h e d r a l of S t . J a m e s , mode l l ed after S t . P e t e r ' s a t R o m e , t h e old c h u r c h of N o t r e D a m e w i t h i t s f amous bell which is classed a m o n g s t t h e la rges t in t h e world , t h e Jesu i t Church a n d Col­lege, No t re D a m e de Lourdes , Bonsecours Church , d a t i n g from 1659, t h e Eng l i sh Ca thed ra l , S t . J a m e s (Methodis t ) , a n d E r s k i n e , S t . P a u l ' s a n d St . A n d r e w ' s (P r e sby t e r i an ) a re w o r t h seeing. Mount R o y a l , from which t h e c i ty t a k e s i ts n a m e , affords a del ightful d r ive (or it can be ascended b y incl ine r a i lway ) , a n d from its s u m m i t is seen t h e g r andes t p a n o r a m a of t h e p i c t u r e s q u e va l ley of t h e St . Lawrence t h a t is o b t a i n a b l e . B e y o n d t h e Beloeil p e a k s e a s t w a r d t h e Green Moun ta in s of V e r m o n t can be d i s t ingu i shed on clear d a y s ; to t h e s o u t h a r e t h e A d i r o n d a c k s ; a n d a long t h e n o r t h r u n s t h e L a u r e n t i a n r ange , oldest of t h e wor ld ' s m o u n t a i n s . O t h e r po in t s of in teres t a re t h e Vic tor ia Br idge , s p a n n i n g t h e St . Lawrence , McGill U n i v e r s i t y , R o y a l Vic tor ia College for W o m e n , Windso r S t a t i on a n d offices of t h e C a n a d i a n Pacific R a i l w a y Co. , Nelson M o n u m e n t , C h a m p d e Mars ( t he military p a r a d e g r o u n d of t h e ea r ly d a y s ) , t h e Maisonneuve Monumen t on P lace d ' A r m e s , t h e i m m e n s e C .P .R . A n g u s shops a t t h e east end , Domin ion S q u a r e , R o y a l Vic tor ia H o s p i t a l , P l ace d ' A r m e s , C h a t e a u de R a m e z a y , Bonsecours Marke t on m a r k e t d a y s , t h e P l ace Viger H o t e l a n d passenger s t a t i on of t h e C a n a d i a n Pacific R a i l w a y , a m a g ­nificent m o d e m s t r u c t u r e recen t ly erec ted oppos i te P lace Viger, from which t r a i n s leave for a n d a r r ive from Quebec , a n d which is also c o n v e n i e n t t o t h e docks of t h e lake a m i ocean s t eamer s . A run down t h e Lach ine R a p i d s is a n e n ­j o y a b l e exper ience a n d a visit t o t h e curious old I n d i a n vil lage of C a u g h n a w a g a , oppos i t e L a c h i n e , t h e h o m e of t h e r e m n a n t of a once powerful n a t i o n ,

Q U E B E C 3]

St . H e l e n ' s I s l and , Back River , B o u t d e ITsle , Isle Gros Bois , W e s t m o u n t t h e fashionable s u b u r b , or a n y of t h e n u m e r o u s c i ty p a r k s a n d publ ic bui ld ings is w o r t h m a k i n g . Mont rea l h a s a n a d m i r a b l e electr ic s t r ee t car sy s t em, a n d i ts c a b service is no t ed for i ts excellence a n d cheapness .

Ottawa, The Capital of Canada Visitors t o Quebec , v ia Mont rea l , can easily reach O t t a w a , t h e Cap i t a l of

t h e Domin ion , b y t h e Canad ian Pacific or o the r ra i lways , or b y r iver in s u m m e r t h e ra i lway run be ing th ree hours from t h e commerc ia l met ropol i s b y t h e C . P . R

ill I

T h e Famous Caledonia Springs Hote l

M i d w a y between Montreal and Ottawa. Noted for the Wonderful Curative Properties of the Waters .

shor t l ine, which runs u p t h e O n t a r i o b a n k of t h e O t t a w a r iver . T h e s i te of

O t t a w a for p i c tu resque g randeu r , i t h a s been s t a t e d , is on ly second t o t h a t

of Quebec . I t is loca ted on t h e O t t a w a r iver , w h e r e t h e R i d e a u a n d G a t i n e a u

jo in , and where t h e w a t e r s of t h e first n a m e d h u r l t hemse lves ove r t h e C h a u d ­

ière Fal ls in to a see th ing cau ld ron below. B u t i t is t h e n a t i o n a l bu i ld ings

which a re t h e chief p r ide of O t t a w a , a n d t h e pr inc ipal ob jec t s of in te res t t o

tour i s t s . T h e y s t a n d o u t bo ld ly on P a r l i a m e n t Hil l , over looking t h e O t t a w a ,

in all t h e b e a u t y of seemingly var ied a r ch i t e c tu r e . T h e y were e rec ted a t a cost

of abou t $5,000,000, t h e corner s tone be ing la id in 1860 b y t h e Pr ince of Wales

now K i n g E d w a r d V I I . T h e oc tagona l s h a p e d l ib ra ry in t h e rea r of t h e

H o u s e s of P a r l i a m e n t is one of t h e m o s t comple t e in t h e world , a n d con ta ins

32

300,000 vo lumes , some of wh ich a r e exceedingly r a r e . O t h e r objec ts of i n t e r e s t a r e R i d e a u H a l l , t h e h o m e of t h e Governor -Genera l of C a n a d a , R i d e a u Canal , connec t ing t h e O t t a w a w i t h L a k e O n t a r i o a t K i n g s t o n , bu i l t in 1827, for m i l i t a r y purposes , t h e F isher ies E x h i b i t , Na t i ona l A r t Gal le ry , Geological Museum, t h e L o v e r ' s W a l k , Cen t ra l E x p e r i m e n t a l F a r m , Rockliffe a n d Major Hil l P a r k s , t h e c i ty bui ld ings , ex tens ive saw-mil ls , a n d t h e t i m b e r slides b y which t h e squa re t i m b e r from t h e U p p e r O t t a w a passes d o w n w i t h o u t d a m a g e in to t h e nav igab le w a t e r s below. T o go down these sl ides, a s m a n y v is i tors do , is an exc i t ing a n d exh i l a r a t i ng exper ience . Oppos i t e O t t a w a is t h e F r e n c h c i ty of Hu l l , a n d combined t h e y h a v e a p o p u l a t i o n of a b o u t 90,000.

T h e r e a re m a n y p l e a s a n t resor t s n e a r O t t a w a , a n d t h e G a t i n e a u Va l l ey , r eached b y rail , is a del ightful s u m m e r i n g place for t h e p leasure a n d h e a l t h seeker , t h e ang le r a n d t h e s p o r t s m a n in ques t of large a n d small g a m e .

Q u e b e c C a b T a r i f f

BY THE DRIVE Time allowed. Fifteen Minutes, Time allowed, Thirty Minutes,

For one or two persons So.25 For one or two persons $0.40 For three or four persons 40 For three or four persons 60

BY THE HOUR For First Hour, | For Every Subsequent Hour,

For one or two persons So. 75 For one or two persons So.60 For three or four persons 1.00 | For three or four persons 0.75

TWO HORSE VEHICLES

Time allowed. Fifteen Minutes, Time allowed, Thirty Minutes. For one or two persons So.50 For one or two persons So.65 For three or four persons 0.65 | For three or four persons 0.75

BY THE HOUR For one or two persons Si.00 I For three or four persons S i .25

BAGGAGE

For each trunk or box carried in any such vehicle, 1 0 c , b u t no charge shall be made for travelling bags, valises, boxes, or parcels, which passengers can carry by hand.

For drives between midnight and four o'clock in the morning, fifty per cent, shall be added to the tariff rates above mentioned.

Children under five years of age, and sitting on their parent's or guardian's l a p , will be admitted free of charge, and shall not be held as being included in the word persons in the said tariff.

The word drive, whenever i t occurs in the said tariff, shall be held to admit s t o p ­pages within the time fixed for said drives,

POINT LEVIS Q U E B E C F R O M P O I N T L E V I S EMPRESS OF BRITAIN

Publications I s s u e d b y t h e

C A N A D I A N P A C I F I C R A I L W A Y C O M P A N Y

" THE HIGHWAY TO THE ORIENT " " SUMMER TOURS "

" Q U E B E C " " FISHING AND SHOOTING "

" OPEN SEASONS. FOR FISH AND GAME " " MONTREAL "

• ST. ANDREWS-BY THE-SEA " •' WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST "

" ANNOTATED TIME T A B L E S " ' THE CHALLENGE OF THE MOUNTAINS

" THE GLACIERS " " A R O U N D THE WORLD "

" HAND-BOOK AND TIME-TABLE " "MUSKOKA LAKES''

NEARLY all these publications are handsomely illustrated, and all contain much useful information in interesting shape. " The Annotated l ime-Table " will be found a val­uable companion for all transcontinental travellers. Other pamphlets descriptive of

the Dominion—" Western Canada." " British Columbia "—are also issued by the Company Copies may be obtained FREE from Agents of the Company, or wiU be mailed to any address •on application to undersigned.

C - B D i I ° 1 c f p - E N 7 G R Y A S N ' . S T . , T O R O N T O .

E ' ' À ^ f t ' G e n e r a . P-^g^E** E- V

AsSrt"taffic «J^ d W . « . T .

W - G ; ^ K - g e t A G E N , S ^ U n e o U s _

L - " d i v y f f i ^ % ° \ t o . . St. Paul, Minn.

W M

G I N L M - Agent, Eastern U » * ^

C. E . « ^ S S H ^ ; f f l c Manager, Assistant Passenger Tram

A L A N C * S f e s W . , and 6 7 - 6 8

G e 62Q 631 Chestnut St., "

A- W ' Ticket Agent^ l t i m o t e . »7 B. B a l U m , , r e 3 1

Woi. H ^ . ' g t Agent. Y o r t Ave. « W ^ * S t ' wSbington, D.C

C. K - M c P H E ^ western U » * i p e ( .

B N Q

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