A Taste of Summer in the Depths of Winter_ Our Grand Driving Tour of the Alps _ Europe Forum _ Fodor's Travel Talk Forums.pdf

06/06/2015 ATasteofSummerintheDepthsofWinter:OurGrandDrivingTouroftheAlps|EuropeForum|Fodor'sTravelTalkForums

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/atasteofsummerinthedepthsofwinterourgranddrivingtourofthealps.cfm 1/23

ATasteofSummerintheDepthsofWinter:OurGrandDrivingTouroftheAlpsPostedby:hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb20,08at6:14pmPostedin:Europe(http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/)Tagged:Switzerland(http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/switzerland/)Jumptolastreply(#lastcomment)BasedupontherecentinterestinAlpinedrivingtours,IhavefinallygottenmotivatedtopostthereportfromourmountaintourtakenlastAugust.DHandIoriginallyplannedthistripforSeptemberorOctober,butwithsomeuncertaintysurroundingourdeparturefromGermany,wedecidednottotakeanychances.HowoftendoesonegettheopportunitytodrivesomeofEuropesmostfamousmountainpassesinaspiffysportscar,afterall?

WegottheideaforthistripfromastoryintheSeptember2005issueofCarmagazinetitledAsGoodasitGets,inwhichwriterBenOliverandphotographerStuartCollinsthrashEuropesbestmountainroadsinaBMWM6.Whilewecouldntfitalloftheirfavoritedrivesintoour7daytrip,wedidmapoutaroughitinerarythroughsomeofthebestautomotiveterraintobefoundinAustria,SwitzerlandandItaly.Conveniently,wewouldspendsixofthesevendaysinGermanspeakingterritory,astheSdtirolregionofnorthernItalywashistoricallypartoftheAustrianEmpire,andmanyofitsinhabitantsstillprefertospeakGermanoverItalian.

IspentthelastthreeweeksofJulyscramblingtobookhotelsforthefirstweekofAugust,whichjusthappenstobethebusiesttravelmonthoftheyearinEuropebecausemosteveryonetakesthemonthoff.IwasgenerallyprettyhappywiththehotelsIfoundand,armedwithaheftyspiralboundatlasoftheAlpsthatIpickedupatBuchhausWittwerinStuttgart,wefeltreasonablyconfidentsettingoutintothemountainsonourfirstmajortripwithoutourfaithfulnavi,Susie.

Thisisadrivingorientedtrip,soIshouldprobablytellyoualittleaboutourwheels:a2007MercedesSLK200convertiblewithmanualtransmission.ThiswasmycarforourlastyearinGermanyand,althoughitwaswoefullyunderpowered,ithandledwellandwasquitefuntodrive,especiallywiththetopdown.InouropinionthebestcartodriveintheAlpshasashortwheelbase,excellenthandling,apowerfulengine,andaconvertibletoptoenjoythoseawesomeviews.AMiniCooperSwouldprobablybeideal.

Thistripwillsoundrushedtomostofyou,butwehadtosqueezeitintothetimewehadavailable.Itcouldeasilybeextendedintoamorerelaxedtwoweek(orlonger)tripbyaddingnightsineachlocationoraddingstopsinbetween.WedidpassthroughmanygorgeoustownsandterrainthatwewouldhavelovedtoexplorefurtherI'llpointoutsomeoftheseasIgoalong.

Herestheitineraryforourtrip.Wespent1nightinHall,2nightsinOrtisei,1nightinBellagio,and3nightsinKandersteg.

Day1(eveningdeparture):StuttgarttoHallinTirol,AustriaviaGaichtpassDay2:HalltoOrtisei,ItalyviaJaufenpassDay3:TourroundtheSellaGruppe(multiplepasses)Day4:OrtiseitoBellagioviaStelvio,Umbrail,Ofen,andMalojapassesDay5:BellagiotoKandersteg,SwitzerlandviaLucomagno,Oberalp,Furka,andGrimselpassesDay6:TraintripfromLauterbrunnentotheJungfraujochDay7:HiketotheFrdenhtte(aboveKandersteg)Day8:KanderstegtoStuttgartviaSustenandKlausenpasses

ComingNext:Letthedrivingbegin!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)deladeb(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/deladeb/)onFeb20,08at8:10pm(#comment1514586)Justwonderingwhereyouflewintoandoutof?ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb20,08



at8:42pm(#comment1514588)Sorry,IshouldhaveclarifiedwelivedinStuttgartfromSeptember2005toDecember2007,sowetookthistripfromourhomeinStuttgart.The"departurefromGermany"thatImentionedwasourmovehometotheUSA,whichwefortunatelywereabletopostponeuntilDecember.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)flygirl(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/flygirl/)onFeb20,08at8:54pm(#comment1514589)Oh,thankyousomuch!Ican'twaittoreadmore.

I'dlovetogetmyhandsonacopyofthatarticle,too.

I'mactuallybuyingaBMWthroughtheirEuropeandeliveryprogram,hencethestart/endinMunich.

Imappedoutsomeofmyplanlastnightbasedonallthewonderfultipsinmythread,andIalsogotanotheremailfromtheEremoGaudiothismorningre:reservations.BasedontheiravailabilityIamgoingtohavetomovemydatesslightly,butthat'sok,IthinkImightbefootlooseonmanyofthehotel/B&BreservationssinceIsuspectlateSpringisn'tahardtimetojustshowupandfindroomsinmanyplaces.

Thanksagain!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)deladeb(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/deladeb/)onFeb20,08at9:53pm(#comment1514591)Flygirl,ifyouweren'tpurchasingthecarwherewouldyouflyintoandoutof?ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)caroline_edinburgh(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/caroline_edinburgh/)onFeb21,08at2:11pm(#comment1514593)hausfrau,youarefamous!TripreportspotlightintheFodor'snewsletter.Unfortunatelytheyhaveitasyourgrand*Diving*touroftheAlpsIwasfascinatedtoseethat!Butyourdrivingtripreportisveryinterestingtoo

ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)flygirl(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/flygirl/)onFeb21,08at3:38pm(#comment1514595)Isawthattooyouarefamous!

deladebI'dlikelyuseMunichanyway,sinceIcangetanonstopflightonUnited.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Katie_H(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/katie_h/)

onFeb21,08at4:47pm(#comment1514597)oopsdiving!whatatypo.Sorryaboutthathausfrau.DivingintheAlpssoundsprettyinterestingthough...ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb21,08at6:58pm(#comment1514599)Hmmm....diving...well,IsupposetherewereacoupleoflakesIcouldhavegonedivingin...buttheylookedalittlechilly!

deladeb,IagreethatflyingintoMunichwouldputyoutheclosesttothestartandendpointofthistour.

Andnow,onwiththeshow...

DAY1:LETTHEDRIVINGBEGIN!(STUTTGARTTOHALLINTIROL)

WesetoffafterDHgothomefromworkonthisWednesdayeveningandhadabitofanadventuregettingtoourstopoverforthenightHallinTirol,asmallsleepytownjusteastofInnsbruck.Westartedoffwellenough,takingtheA8toUlmandthentheA7southtowardsAustria.ThenmyViaMichelindirectionssentusofftheA7ontotheB310forsomereason,insteadofcontinuingonthelogicalroutetoFssen,andweblindlyfollowedtheprinteddirectionswithoutlookingcarefullyatthemap.Weended



uptakingaratherlengthydetouralongtheDeutscheAlpenstrae,butitwasalovelydrivethroughprettyalpinevalleysunderacleareveningsky.WecrossedintoAustrianearOberjoch,wherewestoppedforgasalongwithatonofGermanswhowerefillinguptheirsparegascansapparentlygasisalotcheaperinAustriathencutsoutheastonroute199throughtheTannheimValley,pasttheHaldenseeandsomeveryimpressivecraggymountains.WedrovethroughtheGaichtpass,whichwasourfirstmajorpassofthetrip,thenhookedupwithroute198atWeienbach,followingtheLechRivertowardsReutte.

AtReutteIcalledthehoteltotellthemwedbearrivingafter10pm,sinceitwasalreadyquarterto9andgettingdarkfast.DHsaidmyGermansoundedreallygoodonthephoneIwassopleased.Wehookedupwithroute179andcontinuedthroughHeitewangandBichlbachtoLermoos(dontyoujustlovethesenames?),thanpassedthroughthe3.2kmlongLermoosTunnel.(JustbeforeLermooswehadaglimpseoftheZugspitze,whichat9,718feetisthehighestpointinGermany,rightontheAustrianborder.)Sadlywehadnotimetostopforpicturesofanyofthedramaticmountains,anditwasreallytoodimfordecentphotographyanyway.

WetraversedtheFernpass(pass#2),spottingseveralcastlesalongtheway,toNassereithandthenfinallyhookedupwiththeA12nearInnsbruck,arrivinginHallatprecisely10pm.FortunatelyGasthofBadl(www.badl.at(http://www.badl.at))couldntbeeasiertofinditissituatedjustacrosstheriverfromHall,withampleparkingoutfront.Weweregreetedwarmlyatthereceptiondeskdespiteourlatearrival(theladyhadtoscootafluffycatoffthecountertocheckusin).OurbasicbutcozythirdfloorroomwithabalconylookingouttowardstheInnRiverwasagooddealat78Euro.

Next:IntotheDolomitesReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb22,08at10:20pm(#comment1514601)DAY2:INTOTHEDOLOMITI(HALLTOORTISEI)WehadanadequatebreakfastatGasthofBadlofslicedcheeseandham,hardrolls,wateryorangejuice,andstrongcoffee.Onourwayoutwehadtomaneuveraroundalarge,elderlyBernesemountaindogwhohadcommandeeredapositionatthetopofthestairs.Wecheckedoutat10amandleftourcaratthehotelwhileweexploredHall.WecrossedovertheriverInnonacoveredwoodenfootbridgeandfoundthetowntobequitecharmingveryhomeyandnontouristy,thekindofplacewhereeveryoneknowseveryoneelse,centeredaroundanirregularlyshapedmarketsquarewithwindingcobblestonestreetslinedwithleaninghouses.ItwassuchalowkeyplacethatIcouldntevenfindatouristshoptobuymyrequisitesouvenirmagnet!WewentinsidethePfarrkircheSt.Nikolaus,thetownslargestchurch,whichhasauniqueoffcenternaveitalmostlooksliketheyranintosomerockswhentheywerebuildingthechurchandhadtoworkaroundthem.Theinteriorisamixtureofgothicandbaroquestyles,withaheavilyfrescoedceilingandalargecollectionofwhatlookedtobebishopscrownsandskulls.

Wereturnedtothecaraboutanhourlaterbywayofthemainbridge,whichgaveusniceviewsofthetownschurchspiresandthelandmarkMnzeturm,orcointowerofthe14thcenturyBurgHasegg,whichhousedHallssilvermintfrom1477to1806.By11:00wewereontheroad,headingwestthroughInnsbruck,whichissetagainstadramaticbackdropofsteepmountains.Weheadedsouthonroute182,whichparallelstheA13,throughtheBrennerpass(pass#3ofthetripnottoothrillingasfarasdrivinggoes,butmorescenicthanslogginguptheAutobahnwithallofitstrucktraffic).

WecrossedintotheSdtirolregionofItalyatthetownofBrenner.ThelandscapewasstillveryTiroleanincharacterbutnowallofthesigns(includingthetownnames)wereinItalian,German,andsometimesathirdlocaldialect,calledLadin,whichevolvedfromLatinaftertheareabecamepartoftheRomanEmpirein15BC.AtSterzing/Vipitenoweheadedsoutheastonroute44throughtheJaufenpass(pass#4),ourfirstreallyfamousrouteonthetrip,whichtraversessome40kilometersthroughthickforestandgoldengrassyslopestoaheightof2,094meters.Thedrivingwasexcellent(althoughtheroadwasquitenarrow!),theweatherwasbeautiful(wehadthetopdown),andweenjoyedgorgeousviewsofTiroleanchaletsanddramaticbarrenpeaksonallsides.WestoppedpartwayuptoadmiretheviewsandImadefriendswithaSwisscowwhomoseyedupthehilltocheckusout(IcallallofthemouseybrowncowswithbigfuzzyearsSwisscows,evenifwearentinSwitzerland).Westoppedagainatthetopofthepassandclimbedashortwaysuparockyhillsidetoastonecairnforanawesome360degreeview.Wehadasnackofcountrybread



toppedwithcheeseandtomatoattheEdelweisshtte,obviouslyapopularstoppingpointforthethrongsofmotorcyclistsoutforasummerride.

Weweregettingbakedbythesummersunsoweputthetopuponthewaydowntheothersideofthepass.TherewasalotoftrafficcomingdownandwehadtonavigatesomeprettycrazyhairpinsmarkedbysignsthatreadkehrtornantewhichIthinkmeanstakecaresharpturn.AtthelovelyresorttownofSt.LeonardweheadedsouththroughthePasseiertaltoMerano.JustbeforeMeranothelandscapebeganaspectaculartransformationimagineTiroleanchaletsandconiferforestscollidingwithRenaissancevillas,espalieredappleorchards,andneatlytendedvineyards.WewerestuckonthestreetsofMeranoforawhileduetoacaraccident,sowehadsometimetoadmirethisveryprettyMediterraneaninfluencedcity.ThePalaceHotel,surroundedbylushgardens,lookedparticularlyinviting.

WecontinuedsouthontheAutostrade(A38)toBolzano,amidsizedcitywhosebiggestclaimtofameistzi,the5,000yearoldmummifiedIceman.Wedidntstoptovisithim,asweneededtopressonwardstoourdestinationforthenexttwonights:SanktUlrich/OrtiseiintheDolomites.WewentabittoofarnorthontheA22becausewecouldntfindanexitfortheA12,andhadtoturnaroundatKlausen/Chiusa,butwegottoseeanamazingsprawlingcastleperchedontopofahillinthemiddleofthevalley.Weendeduponroute242dinsteadof242,sowegotalittleconfusedenroutetoOrtisei,butweeventuallyfoundourwayintothefamedValGardena,wherewegotourfirsthazyglimpsesofthecraggypeaksoftheDolomitesoffinthedistance.

Ortisei(thatstheItalianversion)isagoodsizedresorttownnestledinabroadgreenvalleysurroundedbydramaticpeaks.WeheadedupasidevalleytothevillageofKastelruth/Castelrotto,whichIwantedtoseebecauselotsofpeopleseemtopreferittoOrtisei.Itlookedpleasantenough,butmuchsmallerthanOrtisei,andthesurroundinglandscapeisnotnearlyasspectacular.Wetookanarrow,windingroadjustoutsideofOrtiseitothetinyhamletofPufelsandtheidyllicHotelUhrerhof(www.uhrerhof.com(http://www.uhrerhof.com)).Thisplacewaspuremagicitwassoquietinthenarrowvalleythatyoucouldhearthewindwhisperinginthetreesandthefainttinklingofsheepbellsfloatingupfromthegreenmeadowsbelowthehotel.Weweregreetedbytheladyofthehouse,FrauZemmer,whospeaksfluentItalian,GermanandEnglish.Ourroom(#101)washugeandbyfarthenicestroomwevehadonthecontinent.ItwasalldoneintraditionalTiroleanlightwood,completewithatinywoodburningstove,agorgeousmodernbathroomstuffedwithluxuriousamenities,chocolatesonthepillows,andalargeflowerfringedbalconywithanincredibleviewacrossthevalleyanddownintoOrtisei.Iwasalreadyinlovewiththisregionandwedonlyjustarrived!

Isatoutonourbalconyforawhile,soakingitallin,andlistenedtothechurchbellsinPufelschime6:00.WehadreservedhalfboardattheUhrerhoftoavoiddrivingdownintotownfordinner.Weenjoyedafivecoursemealinthequaint,cozydiningroom.Wepartookoftheamplesaladbuffet,followedbysmokedgoosewithcabbagesalad,puffpastrypizzasmotheredincheese,mushrooms,andtomatosauce,tendervealwithgreenbeansandsteamedpotatoes,andasimplefruitcocktailfordessert.Thefoodwastraditionalhomecooking,nothingtoofancy,butquitetasty.

Astormmovedinthiseveningandwehadheavyrainovernightwejusthopeitclearsupbytomorrow!

Photosfromtoday:http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157602758287632/(http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157602758287632/)

ComingNext:MountainMajesty(ATourRoundtheSellaGruppe)ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Steve_James(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/steve_james/)onFeb23,08at11:39am(#comment1514603)Lovelyphotos,Hausfrau!

InallmyDolomitestripsIstillhaven'tmanagedtheJaufenpass.Nexttime,perhaps...

LookingforwardtoreadingaboutyourdayaroundtheSellamyfavouriteDolomitesdrive



.Hopeyouhadgoodvisibilityforthatone...

HotelUhrerhoflookslovelyI'malmosttempted.

DivingintheDolomites?Hmmmhowaboutparaglidinginstead

Stillhopingtopluckupthecourage...oneday.

SteveReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)caroline_edinburgh(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/caroline_edinburgh/)onFeb25,08at10:36am(#comment1514605)Soundsbeautiful,hausfraulookingforwardtotherest.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb25,08at7:02pm(#comment1514607)DAY3:MOUNTAINMAJESTY(TOUROFTHESELLAGRUPPE)

Wewokeuptoasteadydrizzleandavalleyobscuredbyclouds,whichputabitofadamper(punintended)onourplanstotakeascenicdrivearoundtheSellaGruppe.WehadarelaxingbreakfastintheUhrerhofsdiningroom,feastingonthetypicalbuffetofcoldcutsandcheese,croissantsandrollswithhomemadejams,hardboiledeggs,andcannedfruits.

WedecidedtowaitouttherainbydrivingdownintoOrtiseianddoingalittleshopping.Weparkedinagarageinthemiddleoftownandcameoutinthemidstofalivelystreetmarket.Wemadeourwaytothemainshoppingdistrictandvisitedthetownsmainchurch,theinteriorofwhichisawonderofapricotandmintgreentonesaccentedwithgoldgilt.Ortiseiisfamousforitswoodcarving,andthetowniscrammedwithshopssellingcarveditemsofeveryreligiousandsecularthemeimaginablefromcrucifixesandcrchestowildlifeandtoys.Westoppedatanicelittlegiftshopandboughttwocowbellsonleatherstraps.IaminthemarketforauthenticAlpinecowbellsandhaventfoundtherealthingyet,butthesewerefarbetterthanthetackyfakesyoufindinmosttouristshops.Itwasgettingontowardslunchtimesowestoppedatacafforpizzawhilewewaitedforthesuntocomeout.ThecloudsweredefinitelybreakingupandwefinallygotourfirstglimpseofthesnowcappedpeaksoftheSellaGrupperisingdramaticallyinthedistance.

Weheadedbacktotheparkinggaragebutendedupwaitingovertwentyminutestogetoutbecausesomeguyhadgottenhisticketstuckinthemachineattheexitgate.Amaneventuallyshowedupwithsometools,lookingveryannoyed.HestartedpryingopenthemachineandthensuddenlythrewhispliersonthegroundandyelledImpossible!(youhavetoimagineitwiththeItalianaccent,ofcourse)threeorfourtimes,accompaniedbyviolenthandgestures.Hefinallygotthegatetogoupbuthewasstillstandingthere,fumingatthenowmangledmachine,aswedroveout.

WeleftOrtiseiaround2pmandsetoursightsontheSellaGruppe.Moreandmoreofthemountainsslowlyemergedoutofthecloudsaswepressedonwardsandupwardsthroughlushgreenvalleys.Wehadchosenacounterclockwiseroutetotakearoundthemountaingroup,headingfirstoverthePassodiSella(pass#5),whichaffordedusspectacularvistasaroundeverycurve.DHwasdrivingandhereportedthattheSLKwasalittlegutlessbuthandledthecurvesprettywellwecertainlywouldntwanttodrivethosecrazynarrowroadsinalargercar.

Ittookusanhour(withacoupleofphotostops)togetfromOrtiseitothetopofPassodiPordoi(pass#6)wherewegearedupinhikingbootsandourwarmestclothesandboughtticketsforthecablecarride(24Euroroundtripfor2)uptoSassPordoiatalofty2,900meters.Thetopwasshroudedincloudsandwejusthopedthatwewouldbeabletoseesomethingupthere.Wegotsomeamazingviewsofthesurroundingmountainlandscapebeforeourcablecarwasengulfedinacloudasthickaspeasoup.Wewalkedoutoftheterminalintoalunarlandscapenothingbutjaggedshardsofrockasfarastheeyecouldsee.Theremainsofarecentsnowclungtothegroundandabitingwindchilledustothebone.Wetooklotsofphotosandthendecidedtofollowtheonlyobvioushikingtrail,whichtookuspastasmallrifugio(awarminghutlike



thehttesofSwitzerlandandGermanywhereyoucanbuylightrefreshments).Thetrailclimbedslowlyupwardsaswetraversedthesideofabarrenvalleypunctuatedbydramaticdropoffsandwatchedalonglineofhikersdisappearingintothecloudsonaridgehighaboveus.WethinktheymusthavebeenhikingupPizBo,thehighestpeakoftheSellaGruppeat3,151meters.Wecanonlyassumethattheyweregoingtospendthenightupthere,sincetheycouldnotpossiblygetbackdownthemountainbeforedark.Asforus,wehadnosuchambitionsanddecidedtoveeroffthemaintrailtohikeuptoastonecairn,fromwhichwelookedoutintothedramaticabyssoneithersideofthePordoiPass.Themisty,swiftlymovingcloudsbrokeupjustenoughforustocatchenticingglimpsesofendlessmountainridgesdisappearingintothedistancewecouldonlyimaginehowspectaculartheviewwouldbeonaclearday!Aftertakingourfillofphotos,weretracedourrouteandreturnedtothecablecarterminalat4:15,whichgaveusanotherhalfhourtoroamaroundbeforethesecondtolastdepartureoftheday.Wefoundanaturalarchintherockandlookeddownthroughtheholeatthecrazytwistsandturnsoftheroadfarbelow.

Thankgoodnessforlongsummerdays,asoncewehadreturnedtothebottomwehadplentyofdaylightlefttocontinueourcircumnavigationoftheSellaGruppe.Nowitwasmyturntodrive,downtheothersideofthePassodiPordoiandonwardsoverthePassodiCampolongo(#7)andPassodiGardena(#8).Wewereamazedbythenumberofskiliftsandtramsthatdottedtheslopesaboveusthisareamustbeabsolutelyamazinginthewinter,butImnotsurehowyouwoulddecidewheretoski,asthereseemtobeunlimitedoptionsavailable.ItisimpossibletodescribethemajestyoftheDolomites,soyoulljusthavetolookatthepictures.Thedrivingwasverychallenginglotsoffirstgearhairpinturnsbutthrilling.WeranintosometraffictowardstheendasweheadedbacktowardsOrtisei,sowedidntgetbacktothehoteluntil6:45justintimefordinner,whichisservedpromptlyat7:00.

Dinnerwasarepeatofthesaladbuffetfollowedbytomato&mozzarellasalad,asimplechickenbrothsoup,afabulousmeat&cheeselasagne,classicWienerschnitzelwithcreamypotatoes,andapplestreudelwithwhippedcream.IthinktheSdtirolmightjustbemyfavoriteregionofEurope,asitseemstocombinethebestofGermanyandItalydramaticlandscapes,friendlypeople(whoallspeakGermansoIcanactuallycommunicate),anddeliciousfood!

TheonlyproblemwehadwiththeHotelUhrerhofisthatwewereseatedinadiningroomwithtwofamilieswhosekidswereconstantlyoutoftheirseats,sotheatmospherewassomewhatlessthanromantic.Iwonderwhytheydidntseatusinotherdiningroom,whichwasmuchquieter.Weprobablyshouldhaveaskedtomove.AfterourstreudelwequicklyretiredtoourroomandplannedouttomorrowsroutetoLakeComo.

Today'spictures:http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157602761199541/(http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157602761199541/)

ComingNext:AnamazingdrivetoLakeComo!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)enzian(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/enzian/)onFeb25,08at7:27pm(#comment1514609)Ahhausfrau,I'mlovingyourreport,andthephotos.

ButIcan'twaituntilyougettotheFrndenhttehikeprobablymyfavoriteintheSwissalps.

ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)flygirl(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/flygirl/)onFeb25,08at9:30pm(#comment1514611)Iamreallyenjoyingthis,thankyou!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb25,08at10:35pm(#comment1514613)Ohgood,Ihavesomereaders!

Steve,myhusbandstillrememberstheJaufenpassasoneofhisfavoritesperhapsbecauseofthelackoftraffic!

IdidthinkofskydivingwhenIsawthatmisprint.TherecertainlyaretonsofparaglidersandhanglidersintheDolomitesandBernerOberland.IthinkIwouldtryoneofthosebeforeIdidskydiving...



enzian,theFrndenhttehikewasdefinitelyquiteanexperienceyou'llhearwhysoon!

caroline,flygirlgladyou'reonboardandenjoyingthereport!

ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Steve_James(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/steve_james/)onFeb26,08at4:24pm(#comment1514615)WellyourdescriptionoftheSellatourboughtbacklotsofmemories,Hausfrau

.I'mhopingtodoitagainnextmonth...ifthesnow'sgone.

I'msorryyoudidn'tgetasunnydayforit

You'llhavetogoback

I'veenjoyedlookingatyourphotostoo.YourunnamedmountaintownisArabba,IbelieveatthefootofthePordoiPass.

Lookingforwardtothenextinstallment...

SteveReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb26,08at7:52pm(#comment1514617)Steve,IfigurewewereprettyluckywiththeweatherthedaycouldhavebeencompletelyruinedandIstillmanagedtogetsomegreatphotos!Wewilldefinitelybegoingback.ThanksfortheIDofArabba.Itrytopayattentiontothesethingsbutsometimesafewslipthroughthecracks.

ThisnextpostisreallylongbutwecoveredaLOTofground!

DAY4:ONEDAY,TWOCOUNTRIES&FOURGREATMOUNTAINPASSES(DOLOMITESTOLAKECOMO)

WehadanothertastybreakfastattheHotelUhrerhofandIhadanicechatwithFrauZemmerinGermanbeforeweleft.Itwasdifficulttosaygoodbyetothisidyllicspotaftersuchabriefstay.OfallofourEuropeantravelsoverthepasttwoyears,thishotel,andtheDolomitesingeneral,areveryclosetothetopofthelistofdestinationsIwouldliketoreturntoforalongervisit.

FromOrtiseiwestruckoutonroute242westtotheautostrada,hookingupwiththeA22nearBolzano.Wemessedup(okay,perhapsIbrieflyneglectedmynavigationdutiesbecauseIwasslightlydistractedbytheamazingcastleperchedonahillabovethehighway)andwenttoofarsouthontheA22.Weendedupgoingabout20kilometersoutofourwayANDwoundupinatrafficjamANDhadtopaytwotollsbeforewecouldgetoffandturnaround.FinallywegotontrackagainandheadednorthbacktoMerano,thewaywehadcomeonThursday.Wetookroute38west



throughNaturnoandSilandro,passingthroughalovelyvalleylinedwithmoreespalieredappletreesburstingwithfruit.AtSpodigna,wecontinuedonthe38southtowardstheStelvioPass(#9),oneofthemostfamousroadsintheAlps.Youcanseeaprettyamazingimageofthepassfromacrossthevalleyhere:http://www.weltderberge.de/alpen/pics/bbe15649.jpg(http://www.weltderberge.de/alpen/pics/bbe15649.jpg).At2758meters,thePasodelloStelvioisthehighestpavedmountainpassintheEasternAlpsandthesecondhighestpavedpassintheAlpsoverall,secondonlytotheColdelIseraninFranceat2770meters.

Locatedabout75kilometerswestofBolzano,veryclosetotheSwissborder,oneofthepeaksabovetheStelvioPassisnamedDreisprachenspitze,or"ThreeLanguagesPeak,"becausethisiswherethehistoricallyItalian,GermanandRomanschspeakingregionsallcometogether.TheoriginalroadwasbuiltbytheAustrianEmpireinthe1820stoconnecttheformerAustrianprovinceofLombardiawiththerestofAustria.Theroutehaschangedverylittlesincethen,comprisingagrandtotalof60hairpinturns,48ofwhichareonthenorthernsideofthepass.ThepasswasstrategicallyimportantduringWorldWarI,asitformedtheborderbetweentheAustroHungarianEmpireandItaly.AportionofSwissterritoryjuttedbetweenAustriaandItalyandthethreenationshadtoreachanagreementnottofireovertheSwissarea.Today,thepassisbusynotwithgunfirebuttouristsitisgenerallyopenfromJunetoSeptemberandhasbecomeafavoriterouteformotoristsandmotorcyclists,aswellashardcorebicyclists.

Asweapproachedthepass,therollingforestedhillsgavelittleindicationofthedramaticscenerythatwasabouttounfoldaboveus.Justbelowthebottomofthepass,westoppedatthesideoftheroadforapitstop.WetookthisopportunitytoputthetopdownontheSLK,whichendedupbeingawisechoice,asitismucheasiertoseeoutofacarwithnoroof.

Isupposeifwehadhadalittlemoretimetoplanthistrip,wemighthaveconsideredthepossibilitythatdrivingoneofthemostfamousroadsinEuropeonaSaturdayafternooninAugustwasperhapsNOTthemostbrilliantidea.Aswestartedupthefirstfewswitchbacks,werealizedthatthiswasgoingtobemoreaboutavoidingtheswarmsofbicyclists,weavingmotorcyclists,andmonstrousslowmovingRVsandtourbusesthanitwasaboutenjoyingthedrive.Unfortunately,thefameoftheStelvioPasshasreachedfarbeyondmotoringenthusiastsandithasnowbecomeanattractionevenforthosewhohavenoideahowtodrive.Onthebrightside,ourslowpaceallowedus(well,me,atleast)toenjoythedramaticviewofsnowcappedpeaksaroundus.

Wewereaboutaquarterofthewayupthepass,followinganAudiA6,whenalargebussuddenlyboredownonusaroundaparticularlytighthairpinturn.TheAudistoppeddeadinitstrackstoletthebusswingaroundthebend,butthatwasstillnotenoughroomforthebus,andtheAudistartedbackingupwithoutbotheringtonoticethatwewereafewfeetbehindhim!DHhadtohonkattheguyandIamprettysureheonlymissedhittingusbyafewinches.Anothertime,abigtouringmotorcyclecouldnotmakeitaroundaturnandtheriderputhisfootdown,stoppingsuddenlyrightinfrontofus.Avoidingthebicyclistswastheworsttheyseemtothinktheyowntheroad.IfoundmyselfcraningmynecktolookaroundeachswitchbacktoletDHknowifthewayaheadwasclear,sohewouldnthavetoworryabouttakingoutabicyclistifheswungoutalittlebitintotheoppositelane.Wetookabreakabouthalfwayup,neartheruinsofaburntouthotel.Welookedfurtherupthepassandmarveledattheengineeringoftheroad,whichiscantileveredoutoverthemountainsideinsomeplaces.Nearthetopwestoppedagaintosoakintheview,lookingdirectlydownontheroadsnakingupthemountainside.

Inanutshell,theStelvioPassisfartoonarrowtobeenjoyedinanythingbutthesmallestofsportscars,andonthisdayatleast,wastoocrowdedtobemuchenjoyedatall.EventheSLKfelthugeasDHluggeditaroundthosetighthairpins.Iwouldstronglyadviseagainstdrivingthepassonasummerweekend,andifyouaregoingtomakethetrektoStelvio,besuretotoursomeoftheothergreatpassesintheregion,whicharelesserknownbutmakeforfarbetterdrivingexperiences.

Weranagauntletofparkedmotorcyclesatthetopofthepass,anareathrongedwithhordesofbicyclistsandtourists,allswarmingaroundaclusterofhotels,restaurants,andsouvenirshops.Thecrowdsdisappearedaswedescendedtheothersideintoadesolateexpanseofjaggedmountains.AfterafewkilometerswereachedtheturnofffortheUmbrailpass(pass#10,a.k.a.GiogodiSantaMaria),whichwasmarkedbyagateandsign(writtenonlyinItalian)thatsaystheroadisopenfrom6inthemorning



until10:00atnight.TheUmbrailisoneoftheonlyunpavedmountainpassesleftintheAlpsand,at2500meters,isthehighestpasstraversablebycarinSwitzerland.WecrossedtheSwissborder(markedonlybyadesertedcustomsstation)justafewhundredmetersdowntheroad,thencontinuedourdescentthroughabarrenvalleyonachallengingroadwithnoguardrails.ApparentlyfarfewervehiclescomeoverthispassandweenjoyeditalotmorethantheStelvio.Theroadturnedtogravelpartwaydown,butitwasonlyunpavedforafewkilometers,perhapsonethirdofthetotal13.4kilometerstretch.WewerefollowedbyaLandRoverDefendermostofthewaydownhehadnotroublekeepingupwithusinthegravelbutotherwisewesawmoremotorcyclesthancarsontheUmbrail.

WereachedthepostcardperfecttownofSantaMariaatthebottomoftheUmbrail,whereweturnedleftontotheOfenpassstrae(onlyinGermancanonejustifytheuseofthetriples!).ThistookusonagorgeousroutethroughtheValMstair,alandscapeofdryconiferforestsandbroadgoldenmeadowsthatremindedusofwesternMontana.WestoppedatalittlerestaurantatthetopoftheOfenpass(#11,2149meters)tobuysodasandcandybars,thenhikedashortwaysuparockytrailtositonabench,eatoursnacks,andenjoytheview.ItookthewheelatthispointanddrovedowntheothersideoftheOfenpass.Theroadwasperfectlongsweepingbendsandminimaltraffic.TheroutetookusthroughaportionoftheSwissNationalParkandtheroadwaslinedwithtrailheads.(InJuly2006,abrownbearwasspottedintheparkthefirstwildbearsightinginSwitzerlandinoveronehundredyears.)

AtZernezweturnedsouthwestandtookroute27alongtheRiverInntothelakesideresortofSt.Moritz,wherewestoppedforgas.WehadnowenteredtheregionofSwitzerlandknownastheEngadin,whichmeansgardenoftheInninthelocalRomanschlanguage.WetraversedtheOberengadinfromZerneztoMaloja,anareamarkedbyachainofbeautifulbluelakesdottedwithsailboatsandringedbycheerfulhotels.FromherewedescendedtheprecipitousMalojapass(pass#12,1815meters),ourfinalpassoftheday,whichwouldtakeusbackintoItaly.Thiswasanotherverycrowdedroadwefollowedastringofcarsandmotorcyclesdownanimpossiblysteepseriesofswitchbacksthroughthickconiferforest.About22kilometerslaterand1100meterslower,wecrossedintoItalyatCastasegna.Wenoticedapronouncedshiftinthelocalarchitecturethatcoincideddramaticallywiththeelevationchange:fromquaintTiroleanchaletswithoverhangingeavesandwindowboxesburstingwithtoramblingstuccowalled,tileroofedvillasineveryimaginableshadeofyellowandorange.

FromChiavenna,justinsidetheItalianborder,itwasonlyashortdrivesouthtotheshoresofLakeComo,wheretheroadsuddenlybecameabusyfourlanehighway.Thelakewashiddenfromviewmostofthewayalongtheeasternshore,asitpassesthroughaseriesoflongandslightlyclaustrophobictunnels.BecauseLakeComoisaverylong,narrowlake,werealizedthatwewouldhavetogoridiculouslyfaroutofourwaytoreachBellagiobylandanditmadefarmoresensetotaketheferryfromVarenna.WefoundtheturnoffforVarennaandwoundourwayslowlydowntothelakeshore,followingthesignstotheferry.ImanagedtomaneuverthecarintowhatIassumedwasthelinefortheferrywhileDHwentofftoscoutouttickets.Hereturnedtriumphantwithaticket(11,60Euroforthecarandpassengers)forthenextdeparture,leavinginabouttwentyminutes.Wewalkedaroundneartheferrydockwhilewewaited.Varennalookedbeautifullovelypastelhuedvillastumblingdownthehilltothewatersedge.

Aferryarrivedafewminuteslaterandunloadedwewereabouttodriveontoitbutthemantakingtheticketskindlytoldusitwasthewrongone(IthinkitwastheferrytoMenaggio)andourswouldbearrivingafewminuteslater.Finallywegotontherightboatandboardedforthefifteenminuterideacrossthelake.Itwasanincredibleeveningonlyafewwispsofcloudsinanotherwisebrilliantbluesky,andwemarveledattheviews.IdidnthaveagoodimageinmymindofLakeComo(otherthanritzyvillasandresorts,ofwhichitboastsafairfew)beforewearrivedandIwassomewhatsurprisedbythedramaticmountainslopesoftheParcodelleGrignerisingsharplyfromtheeastsideofthelake.ButtherewasalsomoredevelopmentthanIexpectedthelakeisringedbysmalltownsandthehillsidesaredottedwithhouses.Bellagio,however,wasapleasantsurprisemuchsmallerthanIhadimaginedand,dareIsay,abitsleepyevenonthisgorgeouswarmeveningattheheightofthetouristseason.

Bellagiositsonapointoflandthatjutsintothelakefromthesouthandthuscommandssomeofthemostspectacularviewsinthearea.Wespottedourhotel,theMetropole,evenbeforewereachedtheferrydock,andIknewwewereinforatreat.TheMetropoleislocatedrightonthewaterfrontandthebalconiesliterallyhangoverthe



water(asopposedtosomeoftheotherlakefronthotelsthathaveastreetinfrontofthem).Wedroveofftheferryandtriedtofindparkinginanearbylotbutitwastotallyfulland,sinceitwasdinnertime,wedidntexpectanyspacestoopenupsoon.Wedroveashortwaysdowntheroadandfoundanotherlotwiththreecarsinlinewaitingtogetin.TheguyatthegatewavedmeawaybutIstayedputandgavehimthesweetestlookthatIcouldmuster.AcarleftthelotaminutelaterandthemangesturedthatIcouldstay.HecameuptomywindowandsaidsomethingindecipherableinItalian,butswitchedtoEnglishinresponsetomyblankexpression.ItoldhimIwantedtoparkovernightandheshowedmetoaspot.Itcost10Euro,whichwefiguredwasfair.Weunloadedourbagsandhoofeditbacktothehotel,whichwasnttoodifficultbecausetheSLKsminisculetrunk(whichisevensmallerwiththetopdown)hasforcedustotravelverylight.Wewalkeddownagorgeousflowerbedeckedesplanadethatwassimplymagicalintheeveninglight.

OurreceptionattheMetropolewaspoliteifnotoverlyfriendlyweclimbedthestairstoourtinydoubleroomonthefirstfloor.Thebedtookupmostofthespacebuttheroomwastidyandthegraytilebathroomwascleanandserviceable.OurviewwasexactlyasadvertisedfloortoceilingFrenchdoorsopeningontoatinybalconywithjustenoughroomfortwochairs(althoughourshadonlyone)andanabsolutelystunning180degreeviewofthelake.Honestly,thiswasthebargainofourtripat144Euro.Wearrivedjustintimetowatchthesundisappearoverthemountainstothewest,castinglonggoldenraysacrossthelake.AlittlelaterwestrolledalongthewaterfrontlookingatmenusanddecidedthattheHotelFlorencelookedthemostpromisingithadthemostinterestingmenuandtheprettiestterraceoverlookingthewater,framedbyalovelytrellisdrippingwithwisteria.Wehadtowaitforawhileforatablebutthewaiterwespoketosuggestedthatwehavedrinksattheirbaracrossthestreet.WeorderedG&Tsandsatoutside,watchingthelightscomeonacrossthelake.

Wewereseatedatatablerightonthewaterandenjoyedanabsolutelylovelymeal.DHhadrisottowithsmokedsalmonandcaviarfollowedbyroastduckwithmushroomsinabalsamicsauce.Istartedwithfreshpastawithpesto,pinenuts,andzucchiniflowersfollowedbycarpacciowithsmokedricottaandshavedtruffle.IdontthinkIveeverhadaplateofcarpaccioIdidntlike,butthiswasaverynicetwistontheclassic.Fordessertwebothhadpeachandwhitechocolatemoussewithacreamysauceflavoredwithcognacandalmonds.Weteeteredbacktothehotel(thankgoodnessitwasonlyafewhundredyardsaway)andfellintobed.

Today'spictures:http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157602870675228/(http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157602870675228/)

ComingNext:Anotheramazingdrive(LakeComotoBernerOberland)ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Ingo(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/ingo/)onFeb26,08at8:16pm(#comment1514619)YouonlydroveforacouplehoursthroughtheEngadin?Ohyoupoorfolks,youmissedthebest...

Thanksforthedetailedreport.IagreeontheJaufenpass,it'sveryscenic.Idon'tcarethatmuchfortheDolomites,though.Lackofglaciers,Iguess.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb27,08at5:48pm(#comment1514621)Ingo,Iguessit'sdifferentstrokesfordifferentfolks,asthesayinggoes.WejustpassedthroughtheEngadinbecauseitwasneveratargetdestinationforus.Itwaspretty,butforusitwasnomatchtothedramaticsceneryoftheDolomitesorBernerOberland.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb27,08at6:50pm(#comment1514623)DAY5:SWITZERLANDSFINEST(LAKECOMOTOKANDERSTEG)

MorningdawnedtorevealbrightblueskiesandagorgeousviewofLakeComofromourbalcony.Wewantedtotakeastrollaroundtownbeforecheckingout,sowewereamongthefirstguestsdowntobreakfastintheMetropoleslakefrontdiningroom.Wemadeourselectionsfromthesimplebuffet,thensetouttoexplore.ItwasSundaysothetownwasveryquiet.Bellagioisfullofprettycobblestonestreetsthatstairstepdownthesteephilltothelake.Icouldntgetenoughofthewarmtonedvillaswiththeirwroughtironbalconiesoverflowingwithflowersandvines.Wewanderedintothepiazzainfrontofthechurchjustaseveryonewasarrivingforservices,thenwalkedbackalongthewaterfrontandtookintheviewacrossthelaketoVarenna.



Aftermakingabiglooparoundtown,wereturnedtothehoteltocheckout.DHwaitedwiththeluggagewhileIretrievedourcar.Wecaughtthe10:15ferrytoCadenbbia,onthewesternshoreofLakeComo.(IhavetoremarkthattheferrysystemonLakeComoseemedhighlyefficientandusingitwasabreeze.Itwouldbequiteeasytospendafewdayszippingaroundthelakewithoutneedforacar.)ItookthewheeltodriveusoutofCadenbbia,pastmoretileroofedvillasclingingtothesteepslopes,withmagnificentviewsoutoverthelake.Weheadednorthwestonroute340,whichwindsalongthenorthshoreofLakeLugano.ItwasacrystalclearmorningandthelakesidevillagesofPorlezzaandAlbogasiolookedlikeespeciallyniceplacestospendafewrelaxingdays.

WesooncrossedbackintotheItalianspeakingpartofSwitzerlandanddescendedintoLugano,alargeresorttownnestledalongthelake.Itwastoobigforourliking,withlotsofhighriseapartmentbuildings,butwefiguredwecouldatleastfindagasstationherewherewecouldbuyaSwisshighwayvignettethetollstickerthatyouhavetoplaceonyourwindshield.SinceitwasSunday,severalofthegasstationswepassedwereclosed.Thefirstonewefoundthatwasopendidnotsellthevignettes,andwewerestartingtogetalittledesperateasweapproachedtheautostrada.Finally,attheverylastgasstationbeforethefreewayentrance,wewereabletobuythevignette,whichsetusbackawhopping40Swissfrancs(about$35).ItsvalidforayeartoobadwewouldonlybeinSwitzerlandforthreedays!

WehookedupwiththeA2andheadednorththroughBellinzona.AtBiascawegotofftheA2andcontinuednorthontheStradadelLucomagnoasmooth,wide,twolaneroadwhichtooksusoverthePassodelLucomagno(pass#13,1914meters).Ontheascentwewoundupthroughadramaticgreenvalleydottedwithslateroofedcottages.Atthetopwepassedasmallreservoirheldbackbyanenormousconcretedam,andthenwetraversedalong,broad,highmountainmeadowcalledtheValMedel.ThisareaseemstobeaverypopulardestinationforSundaypicnickers,whowereoutinfullforce,campedoutonthesandyriverbanks.

AtDisentis/Mustrweheadedwestonroute19,towardstheOberalppass(pass#14,2044meters)toAndermatt.ThiswasanawesomestretchofroadandIthinkDHwasbeginningtoregrethisinsistenceondrivingtheStelvioPass,becauseIseemedtobegettingallthebestroads.UnfortunatelyIwaswaylaidbysomeslowmovingtrafficontheascentoftheOberalp,butitwasntnearlyasbusyasStelvioandIwasabletopassafewcarsonthestraightaways.WestoppedatthetopoftheOberalpforlunch(mostofthepassesaremarkedbyaclusterofhotelsandrestaurantsandwefiguredweshouldhavetheexperienceofeatingatoneoftheseplacesatleastonce).WehadspentmostofourSwissfrancsalreadyonthevignetteandtherestaurantdidnttakecreditcards,butfortunatelytheyacceptedEuros.Itwassunnyandwarmenoughtositoutsideontheterraceandenjoytheview,includingtheendlessparadeofmotorcyclesroaringby.DHhadRsti(aclassicSwissdishofchoppedpotatoespanfriedwithonions,ham,andcheese)andIhadKseschnitteanopenfacedgrilledcheesesandwichwithhamandpickledonions.Delicious!

DHtookoverdrivingafterlunchandwecontinueddowntheothersideoftheOberalptoAndermatt,apopularskiresorttown.Wecontinuedonroute19uptheFurkapass(pass#15,ourhighestpassofthedayat2431meters),distinguishablebytherazoredgedpeakstoweringabovetheroad.FromthetopoftheFurkapassyoucanseetheRhnegletscher(RhneGlacier),thesourceoftheRhneRiver.WestoppedjustoverthetoptotakeintheviewdowntheothersideoftheFurkapassandacrossthevalleytotheGrimselpass(pass#16,2165meters),whichwewouldbetacklingnext.Westoppedagainonthewaydowntogetascloseaswecouldtothelipoftheglacier.Justaboveus,agushofwatertumbledoutofthedirtyblueiceandcascadeddownawallofrocksintothevalleybelow.JustimaginethisthintrickleofastreammeanderingdownanarrowvalleyinSwitzerlandeventuallybecomesthemightyRhne.

TheroaddowntheothersideoftheFurkapasswasamasterpieceofasphaltalongdescentofswitchbacksandstraightawaystothevalleyfloor,acrosstheriver,andthenwebegantheequallyimpressiveascentoftheGrimselpass.NowthatwehavedrivensixteenofthehighestmountainpassesinEurope,wearequiteinaweofthelaborandengineeringrequiredtoconstructtheseroutesmanyofwhichhavebeeninexistenceformorethanahundredyears.JustoverthetopoftheGrimselpasstheroadcurvedaroundaseriesofsmallreservoirscoloredamilkygreenfromtheglacialsilt.WedroppedsteeplyintoacanyoncarvedbytheAareRiveraYosemiteesquelandscapeofgreatcurvingslabsofgraniteandthickconiferforests.WecontinuednorthwestthroughMeiringenandthenhookedupwiththetwolanehighwaythatparallelstheBrienzerSeetoInterlakenandfinallyenteredfamiliarterritory,aswehadbeenherelastfallwithmyparents.



WeranintoahugetrafficjamalongtheThunerSeejustwestofInterlakenapparentlyeveryoneelsewasreturningfromtheirSundayoutingsatthesametimethatweweretryingtomakeourwaytoKandersteg.Wehadthetopdownsowewerebakinginthesunaswecreptalongthelakefornearlyanhour(adistanceweshouldhavebeenabletocoverinabouttenminutes).FinallywereachedtheturnoffforKanderstegandmadethenowfamiliartrekupthedeadendvalleytotheHotelAdler,ourhomeforthenextthreenights.Wearrivedaround7pmandcheckedintoourlargeroomonthesecondfloor.Wehadacouchandaloungechairthistime,andabigprivatebalconylookingoutthebackofthehoteltowardthemountains.Ourbathroomwasabitodditlookedliketheyhadcovereditoverwithsheetsofwhitefiberglass,whichwereboltedtothewalls,almostliketheyhadtakenastopgapmeasuretocoverupsomesortofterribleproblembutatleastitwasclean.WehaddinnerattheAdlersrestaurantIhadtheclassicRstiandDHhadpastawithchickenandlemonchivesauce.AftertraversingfourofSwitzerlandsfinestmountainpasses,wewerethoroughlyexhaustedbutexhilaratedbythedaysthrillingdrive!

Todaysphotos:http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157603093021239/(http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157603093021239/)

ComingNext:WeparkthecarforadayandgouptheJungfraujochReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)enzian(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/enzian/)onFeb27,08at8:24pm(#comment1514625)Waitdon'tforgettheFrndenhtte!!!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb28,08at3:28am(#comment1514627)Patience,enzianthat'scominguponDay7!

ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)enzian(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/enzian/)onFeb28,08at4:00am(#comment1514629)OK,OK.

LoveHotelAdleritsoundslikeyouhavestayedtherebefore?Wegenerallystayupatthelake,atHotelOeschinensee,butoftenendupeatingamealortwoattheAdler.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb28,08at4:13am(#comment1514631)ThiswasmythirdstayattheAdlerthefirsttimewasover15yearsago.Wehavefriendsthatstaytherejustabouteveryyear.Ihavetosaywewereabitdisappointedbythebathroomthistimearound.

ItmustbegreattostayupatthelakeI'vealwayswondered,dotheyletguestsdriveupthereordoyouhavetotakethechairlift?ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)flygirl(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/flygirl/)onFeb28,08at7:31pm(#comment1514633)Hausfrau

IjustemailedUhrerhof.IamsurewewouldstaythereMay28and29.May27isour"Grossglockner"dayandIdon'tknowifwecanleaveHeiligenblut(theend)andstillmakeittoPufelsbeforedark.Whatareyourthoughts?

IknowthatIngosaidtherearemanyfineviewsinbetweenHeiligenblutandOrtisei,perhapsifwereachPufelsTuesdaynight,wecanspendWednesdaybacktracking.

Stayinginonespotwouldbeideal,withdaytripsunlessofcourseit'sjustalotofgroundtocoverinwhichcasewecouldjuststaysomewhereb/wHeiligenblutandPufels.

VielenDank!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)enzian(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/enzian/)onFeb28,08at8:11pm(#comment1514635)



Hausfrauyouhavetotakethechairliftupthere,orwalk.We'vedoneboth.Generallyweleaveluggageinlockersinthetrainstation,andjustgoupwithwhatweneedforafewdaysindaypacks.Oneyearweactuallytookourluggageup,walkingupthepath.(Theteengirlscouldnotimagineleavinganythingbehindtheywereadamantaboutthat).Sowetrekkedupwithourrollerbags.Wearenowfamousforthatapparentlythepeopleweencounteredontheway(whowerehikingdown)stilltalkaboutit...

Itisreallylovelytospendthenightupthere,andthefoodisterrific.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)flygirl(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/flygirl/)onFeb28,08at10:28pm(#comment1514637)Hey,wealreadyheardbackfromthehotelroom101isours!Eitherfortwonightsorthreenights.

NowIjusthavetofigureoutifplowingthroughthedaywefinishtheGrossglockner,allthewaytoPufels,isagoodidea.We'ddothe"touring"fromthatasabase...ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb29,08at4:52pm(#comment1514638)flygirl,Ican'tbelieveyougotourroom!That'sterrific.Ireallyhopeyouenjoyitasmuchaswedid.

AsforpushingallthewaytoPufelsthatdayyouarecomingfromGrossglockner...Iamnotfamiliarwiththeroute,soIcan'tsayforsure.Imappeditandit'sabout175kmfromHeiligenbluttoPufels,withadrivingtimeof3:15.Ofcoursethatdoesn'tincludestoppingtotakeintheviews.I'mnotsureIwouldwanttogoallthewaytoPufelsonlytobacktracktoseewhatImissedalongthewaythere'sgoingtobesomuchforyoutoseearoundtheSellaGruppeasitis!Maybeotherscanchimeinonwhatwouldbeagoodstoppingpointinbetween.

enzian,Ican'thelplaughing,picturingyourfamilypullingrollerbagsuptoOeschinensee!WhenyouhearthestoryofourdayatOeschinensee,youwillunderstand.Speakingofwhich,I'dbettergetbacktoworkonthisreport!

ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onFeb29,08at5:09pm(#comment1514640)DAY6:THEMAGNIFICENTJUNGFRAUJOCH

Themountainpanoramafromourbalconywasspectacularthismorningnotacloudinthesky,andthetemperaturewasdownrightbalmy.TheHotelAdlerpostsaweatherforecastinthelobbysoweknewthattodaywasourbestchanceforsunshineandclearskiesthusweplannedtotakethetrainuptotheJungfraujoch,therockysaddlebetweentwoofthehighestmountainsintheBernerOberland,theMnchandtheJungfrau.At3454meters,theJungfraujochboaststhehighesttrainstationinEuropeandvisitingitwasoneoftheprimaryreasonswhywereturnedtoKanderstegonthistrip.Idbeenwantingtogouptheresincemyfirstvisittotheregionabout15yearsago,andDHwasenamoredbytheideawhenwewentuptoKleineScheideggwithmyparentslastyear.

Wegotgoingaround10amandIdroveustoLauterbrunnen,whereweboughtticketsforthe11:30traintoKleineScheidegg.(Warning:itisextremelyexpensivetogoallthewayuptotheJungfraujochitcostus265EurofortworoundtripticketsfromLauterbrunnensodontdoitunlessyouknowyouwillhavegoodweatheratthetop!)Wesettledintoourcompartmentonthecogtrainforthe45minuterideupfromLauterbrunnenandthroughWengen.ThetrainwasquitefullwesatacrossfromacoupleofBritishguysandanAmericanfamilywithtwoteenagers.Themountainsweretotallyclearonthewayupandweagreedthatitcouldnothavebeenamoreperfectdayforthisjourney.WesawafewofmyfavoriteSwisscowsalongtheway.WehadashortwaitatKleineScheideggsowewentintoagiftshopandboughtsomemagnets(IstartedcollectingmagnetsfromallofthecountrieswevisitedwhilelivinginGermany,soIhadtocatchupandbuytwofromSwitzerland,oneforeachtripwevemadehere).Forsomeinexplicablereason,asmallherdofgoatshadcampedoutrightinthemiddleofthetrainstationandwereelicitinglotsofattentionfromtheJapanesetourists.

Weboardedourtrainaround1:00andstartedthelong,slowascentuptotheJungfraujoch.Afterthefirststop,weenteredthe7.3kilometerlongtunnelthattraversesthemassivewalloftheEiger.Thetrainstoppedtwiceonthewayup,eachtimeforaboutfiveminutes,sowecouldwalkouttotheviewingplatformsandlook



straightdownthewallofice,allthewaytothegreenvalleyofGrindelwaldfarbelow.Enroute,avideoplayedonboardthetrainexplainingthehistoryofthetunnelandtheconstructionofthestationatthetop.ThetunnelwasthebrainchildofamannamedAdolfGuyerZeller,whooriginallyplannedforthetraintoclimballthewaytothetopmostlookoutplatform,nowknownastheSphinx.Theprojectbeganin1896andtook16yearstocompleteunfortunatelythetunnelsconstructionwasplaguedbybudgetshortfalls,inclementweather,andnumerousaccidents.IntheendthetunnelstoppedatthebaseoftheJungfraujochsaddle,butitstillrepresentsamonumentalachievementinengineering.

TheJungfraujochstationisanenormousmultilevelcomplex,mostofwhichisbuiltinsidetherockitself.(Hereisagoodpictureofthecomplex:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Siteoverview.jpg)(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Siteoverview.jpg))Westeppedoffthetrainintowhatfeltlikeacrossbetweenasubwaystationandanamusementpark,withanarrayofcoloredarrowspointingthewaytothevariousattractions.WefirstwalkedthroughtheIcePalace,whichisanetworkoficetunnelsandcavesfilledwithimaginativesculptures.Thisisworthalook,especiallyifyouveneverbeeninanicecavebefore.Thewholeplacehasaneeriegreenglowanditsfuntoslidearoundonthesmoothasglassfloor.Nextwewenttooneofthetwooutdoorviewingareas,whereyoucanwalkaroundinthesnow,takeinviewsofthejaggedpeaksoftheJungfrauandMnchrearingdramaticallyintothesky,andhaveyourpicturetakeninfrontoftheproudlywavingSwissflag.ThenwetookthehighspeedelevatoruptotheSphinx(itclimbsover100feetinamatterofseconds),whereyoucanwalkaroundoutsideonacircularviewingplatform.FromherewegotincrediblepanoramicviewsofthemountainsandtheawesomeAletschGlacier,which,at120squarekilometers,isthelargestglacierintheAlps.WewatchedaglidersoaringinlazycirclesjustoffthesideoftheMnchandwecouldseeastringofmountainclimbersstartingtheirhikeuptheJungfrau.

Weoptednottoeatlunchatthestation(thenicerestaurantwasfartooexpensiveandthecasualrestaurantwasaglorifiedcafeteria),andinsteaddecidedtomaketheshorthikeacrosstheglaciertotheMnchsjochtte,atypicalSwisshikerslodge.The45minutetrekacrossagentlyrisingslopecoveredinfreshsnowwasalotharderthanitlookedat11,300feet,weweregaspingforair!Itwasdefinitelyworththeeffort,asthecrowdsdispersedassoonaswegotafewhundredfeetawayfromthestation.(Youcanrentsledsandevenskiequipmentuphere,buttheskislopeisprettypathetic.)Signswarnedustostayonthegroomedtrail,becauseifyouheadoffintountouchedsnowyoujustmightfallintoahiddencrevasseintheice.Walkingacrosstheblindingwhitesnowunderimpossiblyblueskies,withviewsofcraggypeaksandthevastglacierspreadingoutbeforeus,wassimplymindboggling.Finallythehttecameintoviewaruggedlookingstructureonstilts,clingingtothehipoftheMnch.Belowuswecouldseeasnugcircleofdometentsclusteredinanotsoshelteredhollowandagreedthatwewouldleavesnowcampingtothediehardmountainclimbers.

Wewerestarvingwhenwefinallyarrivedatthehtte,sowedecidedtoshareaplateofbratwurstandpotatosaladalongwithacouplebottlesofApfelschrle(thatsGermanforsparklingapplejuice).WesatatawindowlookingoutbeyondtheMnchtoawideexpanseofrockandice.Whileweweresittingthere,DHjusthappenedtoseeasignonthewallwiththetrainscheduleandherealizedthatthenexttrainwasleavingat4:45,andthentherewasntanotherdepartureuntilthelasttrainofthedayat6:05.Itwasalready4:15,whichgaveusexactly30minutestogetbackdowntothetrainstation.Weliterallyran,slippingandslidingthroughthesnow,allthewayback,andarrivedatthestationat4:40.CloudswerestartingtomoveinovertheJungfrauandtheSphinxwasnearlyhiddenfromviewasweapproachedthestation.The4:45trainwasalreadyfullandtherewasalineofabouttwohundredpeoplewaitingforthenextone.Fortunatelyanothertraincameat5:05andwesqueezedontoit,takingthelastjumpseatsinourcompartment.Thetrainwasabsolutelypackedpeoplewerestandingandsittingintheaisles.Ridingthroughalongtunnelinanovercrowdedtrainisnotsomuchfun,butwestruckupaconversationwithaniceguyfromOhiowhowastherewithhisSwisswife,whoworksforNestl(soundstoogoodtobetrue,doesntit?).AtKleineScheideggweonlyhadacoupleofminutestochangetrainsforourridedowntoLauterbrunnen,sowedidntendupspendinganytimetheretoday.Weweregladwehadexploredtheareawelllastfall.TheEiger,Mnch,andJungfrauweretotallyobscuredbycloudsasweheadeddownandwethankedourluckystarsthatthegoodweatherhadheldoutlongenoughforourvisit.SomepeoplefindthetriptotheJungfraujochoverpricedandtootouristy,butwereallyenjoyedit,especiallytheviewfromtheSphinxandthehiketotheMnchsjochhtte.



WearrivedbackinLauterbrunnenat7:30andthenmadethe45minutedrivebacktoKanderstegwithoutincident.WehaddinnerattheHotelVictoriaacrossthestreetfromtheAdler,wherewewereservedbyaverynicewaitressfromBerlinwhospokeperfectEnglishbutobligedusbyspeakingGerman.WehadaverygoodmealIstartedwithahousesalad,thenadeliciousSchweinesteakonabedofsteamedspinachwithafabulousgravy,toppedwithshavingsofahard,saltylocalcheese(IwishIcouldrememberthenameitwasdelicious!).DHhadsalmonpreparedthreewayswithahorseradishrelishfollowedbyameatdishthatwecantrememberthingsarestartingtoblurtogetherandIdidnttakegoodnotes.Weheadedofftobedthinkinggloomythoughtsabouttomorrow,whichwassupposedtobeourhikingday,becausetheforecastwascallingforrain!


ComingNext:WebuyrealcowbellsandhaveahikingadventureaboveOeschinenseeReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Steve_James(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/steve_james/)onFeb29,08at5:45pm(#comment1514642)HausfrauMorelovelyphotos

I'dlovetodothatride!

FlygirlThereareotherroutestoBulla/PufelswithoutgoingviaCortina.FromDobbiacoyoucouldtakeashorterroutewithsomefabulousdetoursonthewaye.gLakeBraies(themostbeautifullakeinItaly

)andPratoPiazza

Thatwayyouwouldn'tberushingandyoucouldsavethegloriousSellarondapassesforyourfulldaytourthenextday.

YoucoulddecideatDobbiacoontheday,dependingonweatherandtimeavailable.That'swhatI'ddo...

SteveReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onMar3,08at10:34pm(#comment1514644)Hereitis,enzianinlengthydetail!

DAY7:OURSEARCHFORREALCOWBELLS&AVERYWETHIKETOTHEFRNDENHTTE

TheSwissweatherforecasterswere,sadly,quiteaccurate:itstartedrainingovernightanditwasdrizzlingwhenwegotupthismorning.ThemountainswereinvisibleanditlookedlikeourplanstohiketotheFrndenhtteweregoingtobeliterallywashedaway.(TheFrndenhtteisanothertraditionalhikershutperchedonaridgeabout1000feetabovetheshoresofOeschinensee,agorgeousglaciallakenestledinacuppedvalleyaboveKandersteg.)WeweresorelydisappointedsincewehadaddedadaytoourtripfortheexpresspurposeofattemptingthehiketotheFrndenhtte.WedecidedtolookaroundKandersteginthemorningandwaittoseeiftheweathermightclearupabit.Westoppedatthecheeseshopablockfromourhotel,wheretheyhaveagiganticcowbellhanginginthewindow,andIdecidedtoinquirethereaboutwhereImightfindmyveryownauthenticSwisscowbell.IwastiredofthesillytouristvarietybellswiththeirfauxleatherstrapsandrainbowcoloredfringeIwantedanhonesttogoodnessbellthatwasmadetobewornbyarealcow.Threepeoplewereworkingintheshopatthetime(allofwhomspokesomeEnglish,fortunately),andtheygavemethreedifferent(andratheremphatic,mightIadd)opinionsonwhereIcouldfindmycowbell.ThefirstsuggestionwasashopinReichenbach,alittlewaysdownthevalley,wheretheymakebellsthesecondwasanantiquestorenearFrtingen,alsojustdowntheroadandthethirdwasaretiredfarmerinKanderstegwhojusthappenedtohaveabarnfullofcowbellsthathewasntusinganymore.ThedirectionsforthelatterwereabitvagueandonelookatDHsfacetoldmethatwanderingdownacountrylanein



searchofanelderlyfarmerwhomightsellushisbellswasnotthesortofwildgoosechasehewaswillingtogoonthismorningchanceatauthenticcowbellsnotwithstandingsoweoptedtotrythefirsttwooptions.

WeheadeddowntoReichenbachanddroveupanddownthemainstreetacoupleoftimestheonlyshopwefoundthatlookedlikeitmightsellcowbellswasahardwarestore,buttheywereclosedfortheirautumnholiday.Afewbellswerehangingonarackinfrontofthedoor,tauntingme.Theantiquestorewasrelativelyeasytofind,butittoowasclosed.Iwalkeduptothewindowandpressedmyfacetotheglass:loandbehold,therewasabeautifulantiquecowbelljustsittingthere,afewfeetinsidethedoor!Atthatverymomentacarpulledintothedriveway.Anolderwomanstuckherheadoutthewindowandcalledoutthattheshopwasclosed.IaskedifshespokeEnglishshesaidno.IaskedherinGermanwhentheshopwouldbeopen.SheaskedifIwaslookingforsomethinginparticularandItoldheryesKuhglocken!Shenoddedandindicatedthatshecouldopenuptheshop.Sheunlockedthedoor,thendisappearedbehindacurtainleadingtoabackroom.Afewsecondslatera5montholdBernerpuppyboundedthroughthedoorway.Inhisexcitementhepiddledonthefloorrightinfrontofme,narrowlymissingmyshoe.

Theshopwasamazingacavernousspacefullofgorgeouswoodenfurniture,farmimplements,andtheusualknickknacks.OfcourseIwasoblivioustoeverythingexceptforthetwolongbeamsspanningtheroomthatwerelinedwithgloryhallelujah!dozensofbeautifulcowbellsineverysizeimaginable,hangingfromthickleathercollarsfastenedwithheavybuckles.Iwasinbellheaven.ThelovelybellIhadspottedinthewindowwasapparentlyarareFrenchmodelfromChamonixthatcostawhopping400SwissFrancs,butIwascertaintheotherswouldbemoreaffordable.Aftermuchlookinganddiscussionwepickedoutthreebellsonefullsizeoneandtwosmallercalfsbells,oneofwhichlookedbrandnew.Theladyhadtocalltheshopownerfortheprices.Shecamedownonthepriceofthenewbell,bringingthetotalto310ChF.OfcoursetheydidnttakecreditcardsorECcards,andIhadonlywithdrawn200ChFfromtheATMinKanderstegandsohadagrandtotalof274ChFpluschangeinmywallet.Ishowedtheladymyemptywalletandofferedheranadditional10Eurotohelpmakeupthedifference,butsherefusedit.Shementionedsomethingaboutabankdowntheroad,butwemadeitclearthatwehadnointentionofcomingback.ShefinallyacceptedtheFrancs,muttering,EsistmeinKopf!(Itsmyhead!),butsheseemedprettyamiableaboutit.AswewereleavingDHtoldher,JetzbrauchenwirdreiKuhe.(Nowweneedthreecows.)

Verysatisfiedwithourcowbellventure,weheadedbackupthevalleytoKandersteg.Itwasabout1pmnowandstilldrizzling,butwedecidedtogivethehikeashotanywaywhatdidwehavetolose,otherthangettingalittlewet?WestoppedatthehoteltopileonwhatwouldpassforourraingearandwalkeduptheroadtotheSesselbahn(chairlift).Weboughttworoundtripticketsandweregratefulforthethickwoolblankettheattendantlaidacrossourlapsasweheadedupintotheclouds.Fromthetopoftheliftitwasa20minutewalktotheshoresofOeschinensee,whichwasnearlyinvisibleinthelowhangingfog.WesnackedonorganiccheeseburgersandCokesatthelakeshorerestaurantandthensetoffonthetrailtotheFrndenhtteatprecisely2:15pm.Thesignatthetrailheadsaiditwouldtake2hourstoreachthehut.Thatwouldleaveusonlyanhourandfifteenminutestogetbackdowntothechairlift,whichclosesat6:00,butwedecidedtogiveitourbestshot.

Weheadedupthenarrow,rockytrailinasteadydrizzle,crossingseveraldrystreambedsandcuttingthroughastuntedconiferforest.Thetrailskirtedtheedgeofthelakeforawhile,thenbeganclimbingsteadilyupwards.Wescrambledoverslipperyrocksandroots,pastlowfloweringbushesthatappearedtobetinywildazaleas,thenemergedintoabarrenrockylandscapepepperedwithclumpsofstragglygrasses.Wecrossedthreewoodenfootbridgesoverrushingstreamsthatcamecascadingoffthecliffhighaboveourheadsandtumbleddownwardstothelake,nowfarbelowus.Wecontinuedup,up,up,throughanendlessseriesofswitchbacks.Thevegetationallbutdisappearedandthelandscapetransitionedtorainstreakedshardsofblackshale.Atonepointthecloudsthinnedenoughtogiveusaglimpseofahugecliffloomingaboveus,andweknewthatsomehowthetrailwouldtakeusupthere.Wecouldntseemuchinanydirection,sowelostallsenseofscaleorheight.WecouldnolongermakeouttheultramarineblueofthelakebelowandtheFrndenhtteperchedonitsrockyridgewaslostsomewhereinthecloudsfarabove.Severalsectionsofthetrailtookusupnearlysheerclifffaces,withstonestepsgougedintotherockandmetalcablestoguideourway.

Ouroriginalturnaroundtimeof4:00cameandwent,butweknewwemustbegettingclose.FinallywepassedalargeplasticwatertanklabeledFrndenhtteandweknew



wemustbeveryclose.Thetrailwoundupandaroundonelastrockyoutcroppingandsuddenlythesquatstonefaceofthehutwithitscheerfulredandwhitestripedshuttersappearedoutofthegloom.Weturnedaroundandglimpsedabriefsplashofbluegreenwatersthroughtheswirlingmistfarbelow.Directlyacrossfromuswecouldmakeoutthevagueformsofthehighpeaksontheothersideofthelake.Theviewmustbeabsolutelymagnificentonaclearday!Allaroundthehut,rockstrewnslopessweptupwardsintojaggedpeakscrownedwithicesheets.Itwas4:30andwehadmadethe1000footclimbinexactlytwohoursandfifteenminutes.Alightgloweddimlythroughthehutslacecurtainsbuttherewasnoothersignoflifeaswewalkedslowlyaroundthebuilding.Therewasntevenanoverhangwherewecouldsitandrestforafewminutes.Wehadpausedmomentarilytolookattheinscriptionoverthedoorwhentheupperhalfofthesplitdooropenedandayoungmanpeeredout.Isaid,Hellothere!andhesaidhelloback,givingusanoddlook.Imsurehewaswonderingwhatsortofcrazypeoplehaddecidedtomakethehikeuptothehutonthissortofday(wehadntencounteredanothersoulonthetrail).Hehadadogwithhimascrawny,waryeyedshepherdbutapparentlyhewastheonlypersonstayingatthehutatthemoment.Weaskedhimtotakeourpictureandhekindlyobliged.Wewouldhavelikedtolingerandchat,butwehadatimetabletokeep.Wesaidgoodbyeandturnedbackdownthetrail,leavingtheyoungmantostareratherquizzicallyafterus.

Bythispointweweresoakedthroughandthedrizzlehadturnedtoasteadyrain.Wecouldntseeathingbelowus,whichwasperhapsfortunate,sinceIimaginetheviewisrathervirtiginouswhentheweatherisclear.Wekeptupahardpaceonthewaydown,butthegoingwasverydifficultcold,wet,slippery,andtoughontheknees.Istoppedtosnapafewpictures(IwasusingourpointandshootCanonbecauseIdidntwanttorisksoakingmySLR,whichIwasneverthelessluggingaroundinmybackpack)butDH,eversafetyconscious,kepturgingmeonbecausehewasworriedaboutthestreams.(Onceagainwefoundourselvesonasteepmountaintrail,lateintheday,withnoemergencysupplies,andnooneknewwherewewere.)Sureenough,aboutathousandsmallstreamshadappearedsincewehadmadeourwayupthemountain,andwaterwasnowcascadingfromcliffswheretherehadbeennonebefore.Asweapproachedeachofthethreemajorstreamcrossings,wewonderedifthefootbridgeswouldbeunderwater.Fortunatelynoneofthemwas,butthewaterwasmuchhigherthanithadbeenonthewayup,boilingviolentlythroughthenarrowchannelsonlyafewinchesunderourfeet.Wewerefairlyrelievedwhenwecrossedthethirdbridge,butwestillhadawaystogo.Theoncedrystreambedshadturnedintoragingtorrents,andbythetimewearrivedbackattheshoreofOeschinensee,mybootshadturnedintosoddensponges.Itwas5:45andweknewwehadvirtuallynochanceofmakingittothechairliftbefore6:00,sincethewalktothelakehadtakenustwentyminutesdownhillandbeforewewereexhaustedfromalonghike.

WedecidedthatfatehaddeemedforustowalkallthewaybacktoKanderstegadescentofanother1000feetintherain.Ihadmadethistrekoncebefore,fifteenyearsago,andIknewitwasgoingtobehardonmyknees.Wedecidedtotakethedirttrailinsteadofthepavedroadsinceitwouldbealittlelessjarring.Wepassedasmallherdofrainbedraggledcowsonthewaydown,theirbells(which,Inotedwithimmensesatisfaction,lookedjustliketheoneswehadpurchasedthismorning)clangingmournfullyinthemist.Ittookusanotherhourtoreachthevalleyfloor,bywhichpointmykneeshadturnedtojellyandIcouldbarelywalkinastraightline.Theroutewasntwellmarkedandweendeduphikingcrosscountrydownaskislopepartoftheway.Finallywereachedtheragingriverandfolloweditbackintotown.

BythetimewestumbledthroughthewelcomingdooroftheHotelAdleritwas7:15.Ahotshowerneverfeltsogood!WerewardedourselveswithahugepotoffondueandabottleofRieslingintheAdlersdiningroom.Weevenorderedextrabread,andwipedthepotclean.Icantrememberfondueevertastingsogood.


ComingNext:ThelongroadhomeReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)enzian(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/enzian/)onMar4,08at6:06am(#comment1514646)Ohhhhh...my....gosh!

Ican'tbelieveyoudidthathikeintherain!Tothosereadingthisthosephotosdonotdojusticetothecliffysections,withcablestoprotectyou(barely)fromfallingoffthenarrowledges.Someplacesitmustbe1000feetstraightdowntherock.Andhere's



Hausfrau,skippinganddancingup(anddown)thosewetandslipperyrocks,balancingonledgesandprobablysinging"TheHillsareAlive..."

Ausgezeichnet!!!

Thelast2timeswehavebeentoSwitzerland,wehavegoneandstayedupatOeschinensee,justsowecouldhiketoFrndenhtteagain.Andeachtime,ithasbeenraining,sowewimpedoutandskippedit.

Andthenyouhadtowalkallthewaybackdown(it'sactuallyagoodbitmorethan1000feetjustaboutexactly400metersisabout1300feet.)Goodchoicetogodownthepath,thoughtheroadisverysteepandslippery!

YoudefinitelyearnedyourfondueandRieslingthatnight.I'mgladyoumadeitbacksafely.Thanksforthelovelyphotosandgrippingstory!(Lovethelittleblacknewtdidhestayperfectlystill?)ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onMar4,08at5:32pm(#comment1514648)enzian,I'msogladsomeoneouttherecanappreciatewhatwewentthroughtogetup(anddown)fromthere!ItreallywasworthitdespitetheweatherwefeltlikewehadtrulyaccomplishedsomethingbutI'mnotsurewewouldhavedoneitinretrospect,knowinghowslipperyandexposeditwouldbe.Nevertheless,itwasourlastopportunity(fortheforseeablefuture)totryitandIhadbeenwaiting15yearstodoit!

Thenewtwasmotionlesshelookedlikearubbertoy.IsawnewtssimilartothatoneinthewoodsaroundStuttgartandthefirsttimeIsawoneIhadtonudgeittomakesureitwasreal!

ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)enzian(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/enzian/)onMar4,08at9:46pm(#comment1514650)WecameacrossonewalkingfromGrutschalptoMrrenisitwasalsomotionless,asiffrozen(itwasverycoldoutthatday)."Rubbertoy"wasexactlyhowIwoulddescribeit.Andlikeyou,Ifinallynudgedittoseeifitwasalive(itwas).

Andyes,Idefinitelyappreciateyouraccomplishmentinhikinguptothehutinthatweather.Wediditonagorgeoussunnyday,butIrememberthinking"thisisnotsomethingIwoulddoinbadweatherwithwetrocks!"WhichiswhyIhaven'tbeenabletodoitsince.Maybenexttime...whenverthatwillbe.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)CltLwyr(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/cltlwyr/)onMar4,08at10:49pm(#comment1514652)Hausfrau,

Thankyouforthereportandpictures.

WewerethinkingoftakingtheStelvioPassintheotherdirection.WewillbeinVarennaonLakeComo,andwillwanttogototheDolomites.WewillbetravelingthatstreatchonaTuesdayinearlyJuly.

Isthereanotherrouteyouwouldtake?

IthinkIseewhatyoudid...youwentnorthfromtheSPtotheSS41andthenovertoSt.Moritz?WouldyourecommendthatvscominguptheSS38fromLakeComothroughSondrio(whichseemsmoredirect)?

Thanks!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onMar5,08at6:40pm(#comment1514655)HiCltLwyr,Theroutewetookwasdefinitelynotdirect,butwewantedtodrivetheOfenpass,whichwereallyenjoyed.ItwasanicebreakaftertheStelvioandtheSwissNationalParkwasgorgeous.ItwouldindeedbemoredirecttogothroughSondrioasyou



describe,ifyouwantedtogettotheStelviomorequickly.Itlookslikethatroutefollowstherivermostofthewaysoitwouldbeaflatter,valleybottomkindofdrive.

Iwon'tdiscourageyoufromdrivingtheStelvioIdothinkitwouldbemorefuncomingdownthangoingupandIthinkyouwillbebetteroffdrivingitonaweekdayinJuly.It'scertainlyquiteanexperience,Ijustwouldn'tpicktheStelviooversomeoftheotherpassesifgiventhechoice.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onMar5,08at6:46pm(#comment1514657)Andthefinal(brief)installment...

DAY8:THELONGROADHOME

ThelastdayofourAlpinejourneydawnedcloudyandrainy,butwedecidedtocontinuewithouroriginalplantotraversethefinaltwopassesonouritinerarythe2224meterSustenpassandthe1948meterKlausenpassonourwaybacktoBregenz.TheformerwasidentifiedasCarMagazinesfavoriteofallthegreatmountainpassesoftheAlps,sowehadtogiveitatry.Unfortunatelytheweatherdidnotimproveandoursevenhourdrivethroughthemountainswascompletelysockedin.Wecanonlyimaginethemagnificentvistasofsnowcappedpeaksandverdantvalleysthatwerehiddenfromviewtoday!DHhadaheckofatimejuststayingontheroadandIhadtosatisfymyphotographiccravingsbytakingpointlessbutamusingpicturesoutthewindowofthebottomlesswhiteabyss.Itwasalongdayofdrivingthroughendlessclouds,butwemadeitsafelyhometoStuttgartingoodtime.

Whatamagnificentjourney(despiteafewdipsintheweather)wearealreadyfantasizingaboutrunninganautotouringoperationintheAlps.Wewouldprovidethecars(wevedecidedMiniCooperswouldbejustaboutperfect),mechanicalsupport,guides,drivingroutes,andhotelreservations,andourclientswouldgettoexplorethebestscenicroadsoftheAlps!OneofDHscolleagueshasalreadyvolunteeredtobeoneofourguides.Nowifonlywehadaboutamilliondollarsinstartupfunds

Todays(verylimited)photos:http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157603812729513/(http://www.flickr.com/photos/hausfrau/sets/72157603812729513/)

IhopethisreporthelpsthoseofyouplanningadrivingtripthroughtheAlps.Iknowtechnicalhighaltitudedrivingisnotforeveryone,butforthosewholovenarrowwindingroadsandgorgeousscenery,youjustcan'tbeattheAlps!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)scubonMar5,08at9:40pm(#comment1514663)txforthisawesomereport.andsolittlemoneytostarttheoperations?

ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)CltLwyr(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/cltlwyr/)onMar6,08at5:32pm(#comment1514665)Howlongdidittakeyou,intotal,togetfromOrtisietoVarenna?

Iwasthinkingthatitmighttakealongtime,andwasevenconsideringspendinganightinGlurnstobreakupthatsection.Wouldyouthinkthatisnecessary?

Thanksagainfortheadvice.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onMar7,08at2:42am(#comment1514667)Ican'tsayexactly,butIfigureweprobablyleftOrtiseiaround10am(ourusualstartingtime)andarrivedinVarennaaround5pm.WelostatleasthalfanhourwithourlittlemistakeontheA22nearBolzano.Ididn'tmentionitbutwealsogotstuckintrafficbetweenMeranoandSpodigna.Wedidn'tmakeafulllunchstopbutstoppedmanytimesforphotosandasnack.Itwasn'tabaddayforusbutweenjoylongdaysinthecar(obviously).IfyoutooktheSondrioroutethatwouldprobablycutthetimedownbecauseyouwouldbedrivingathigherspeeds.Iguessitreallydependsonhowmuchyoulikedrivingandhowlongyoucanstandtobeinthecar.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)flygirl(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/flygirl/)onMar7,08at



1:04pm(#comment1514669)Hausfrau,thisisgreat,thankyousomuch!

I'mgoingtoprintitoutandmapitouttoo.GoodtoknowthatthetripfromOrtiseitoVarennaisabout7hoursifwechosetodoitinonestretchversusstopandstaysomewhere..howmanytimesdidyoustoponthatdaytotakephotos,getoutandstretch,etc?

Thanksagain,Ireallyenjoyedit.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)kleeblatt(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/kleeblatt/)onMar7,08at1:27pm(#comment1514670)GrueziHausfrau,

Excellenttripreport.Thanksforposting.

Youtravelledlikeamotorcyclist.Takingthealpswithafullthrottleandenjoyingthesceneryandcurves.

Stelvio(Stilfserjoch)isindeednotthatbeautifulbutit'sanadventure.Kindoflikeclimbingthehighestmountainbecauseit'sthere.

Ofenpassisalsoverybeautifulandwouldrecommendithighly.ThetownsareOKbutthecountrysideisfantastic.EspeciallyintheNationalPark.

OntheothersideoftheOfenpassistheUnterengadinwithScuol,SentandGuardia.Thisareaisalsobeautiful,mainlybecauseofit'sarchitectureand"quaintness"ofthetowns.ThelandscapeismorestrikingintheNationalpark.

Wehadarainy/cloudydayduringourroundtripDolomitedrivetoo.Itwasfrustratingbecauseweknewthatifthosenastycloudswouldlift,wewouldseethemostamazingmountains.

WearehopingtostayinSent/Scuolagainnextfallanddosomemoretouringofthearea.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onMar7,08at4:23pm(#comment1514671)flygirl,let'ssee...wemadeapitstoponthewaytoStelvio,thenstoppedtwiceonthewayupStelvio,onceonthewaydownUmbrail,alongerstopforsnacksandalittlewalkatthetopofOfen,agas/pitstopinSt.Moritz,andoncebyalakeintheEngadin.Sothat'sabout7stops...hmm,thataveragesto1perhour,whichseemsprettysensible.WealsosplitthedrivingDHdroveStelvioandUmbrailandIdroveOfenandMaloja.

schuler,dankeschoen!Itreallywasamemorabletripandagreatintroductiontotheregion.Ihopewecanmakeitbacktheresometimeinthenottodistantfuture,althoughwe'llhavetodoitinarentalcar!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)flygirl(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/flygirl/)onMar7,08at5:18pm(#comment1514672)Hausfrau,thankyou,thathelps.It'snotsolongofadaythen,really.Evenifwestretcheditandittookuntil8PMthatisn'tbad.

ImeanttomentionIsecondtheideaofanAlpsTouringCompany!Wouldn'tthatbefun?

IntryingtoresearchthistripIfoundthattherearefewguidebookswritteninEnglishthatexclusivelyarewrittenfortheAlps.ItseemsthatyoucanfindchaptersabouttheAlpsinspecificcountryguidebooks,buttheyareusuallyfairlyshortandnotasdetailedasIwashopingtofind.Itactuallymademeconsidersuchathingasalongtermproject.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onMar8,08at6:33pm(#comment1514673)You'reright,theguidebooksaren'tgreat.AllwehadwasFodor'sItalywedidn'tevenhaveaguidebookforSwitzerland,butweprettymuchknewwhatwewantedtodothere.WealsohavefriendswhohavebeentotheDolomitesseveraltimessotheygaveussomesuggestionsaboutwheretostayandwhattodo.



Whichremindsme,theonethingyouwillreallyneedisaverygoodroadatlas.Idon'tknowifyou'vefoundagoodoneyet,butyoumightconsiderpickingoneuponceyougettoGermany.Allmajorbookstoresshouldhaveagoodselection.WegotonethatwasspecificallyfortheAlpsat1cm=3kmscaleanditworkedreallywellforus.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)caroline_edinburgh(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/caroline_edinburgh/)onMar10,08at1:34pm(#comment1514675)AnotherthankyouforafascinatingreportandIcan'tevendrive!ItisrefreshinglydifferentfromanythingI'vereadaboutbefore.I'mnotsureit'ssomethingI'deverwanttodomyself(notthatkeenonwalkingeither

orrain)butitwasreallyinterestingtohearaboutsuchadifferentholidayfromthetypesItake.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)norrisken(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/norrisken/)onMar13,08at3:55pm(#comment1514677)hausfrau,

WouldyoumindifIattemptedtomapyourtrip?Here'sasampleofthefirstday.http://theshadedside.com/maps/maps.htm(http://theshadedside.com/maps/maps.htm)Yourdetailsaregreat!Thisisasiteweusedwhenwepickedourtrips.http://www.alpineroads.com/(http://www.alpineroads.com/)We'vedoneGrossglocknerHochalpenstraetwiceandtheTimmelsjochandJaufenpaonce.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onMar24,08at8:56pm(#comment1514679)Caroline,gladyouenjoyedit!

norrisken,sorryforthedelay,Imissedyourmessage.Youarewelcometotrymappingourroute.Thefirstdaylooksprettygood.IactuallyhavemostofourroutehighlightedinouratlassoIcancheckthedetails.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)norrisken(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/norrisken/)onMar31,08at2:41am(#comment1514681)Thanks!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Parrothead(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/parrothead/)onApr18,08at6:16pm(#comment1514682)Iamintheearlystagesofplanningsuchatripasyourssothisentirethreadwasajoytoread.Thedetailsyouprovidearewonderfulandinspiring.

ItookituponmyselftocontactCarMagazinetoseeifanarchivecopyoftheirSeptember2005editionisstillavailableanditis.ByemailtheyprovidedmeanumbertocallintheUK.SoIphonedtodayfrommyhomeinCaliforniaandtheysayIshouldhavethecopyin2weeks.FordeliveryoutsidetheUKitcostsabout7pounds.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)flygirl(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/flygirl/)onApr18,08at9:19pm(#comment1514684)oooooohParrothead,dosharetheinfo!thanks!ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Parrothead(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/parrothead/)onApr18,08at9:47pm(#comment1514686)Ifyouwanttopaybycheckorsomekindofforeigndraft(??)youcansend7pounds,thirty(??)withdetailsofyourrequestto:

DHLGlobalMail(UK)LtdMillsRoad,QuarryWoodAylesfordKentME207WZ

Ifyouwanttopaybycreditcardyoucanphonetheirdirectline08451214000.IfyouarecallingfromtheUSyoudial:



011448451214000

They'lltakeyourcreditcarddetailsandsenditbymail.TheyareopenMonFri91and25.

AsIsaid,asoftoday,Ihaveonlycalledandorderedthemagazine,Ihaveyettoreceiveitandotherthanhausfrau'soriginalpoststatingthisisthemagazinesheusedIwasnotabletoverify(byphone)thearticleisactuallyinthisedition.IwouldbehappytopostafollowupwhenIreceivethemagazine.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)hausfrau(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/hausfrau/)onApr21,08at4:22am(#comment1514688)Parrothead,gladtohearyoutrackeddownthearticleit'sagreatone!AndgoodluckwithyourplanningletmeknowifIcanhelpwithanything.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Katie7(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/katie7/)onMay15,09at1:07pm(#comment5663159)tttReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)manfrommadras(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/manfrommadras/)onOct28,13at11:02pm(#comment8457951)IsthisroutesafetodriveinduringwintersayoverXMasandtheNewYear?

Regards

manfrommadrasReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)michelhuebeli(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/michelhuebeli/)onOct29,13at12:35am(#comment8458098)You'llhavetodoalotofresearch,onebyone,toseewhichofthesepasses(ifany)arestillopenatthattime.Here'sagoodstart,itshowsthecurrentconditions,butitalsolistsmanydatesforthoseroutesthathavepredeterminedclosuredate(manycloseaccordingtoconditions,soyou'llhavetocheckatthelastminute):

www.alpenpaesse.co(http://www.alpenpaesse.co)

Crosscheckwiththisone,it'saimedatmotorbikesbutwillstillbeuseful:

http://alpenrouten.de/alpenpaesseverkehrsinfoswintersperren.html(http://alpenrouten.de/alpenpaesseverkehrsinfoswintersperren.html)ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Ingo(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/ingo/)onOct29,13at9:29am(#comment8458499)>IsthisroutesafetodriveinduringwintersayoverXMasandtheNewYear?

Definitelynot.Mostofthepassesmentionedareclosedinwinter.ReportAbuse(http://www.fodors.com/report.html)Huggy(http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/huggy/)onOct29,13at1:29pm(#comment8458646)hrYOUMIGHTALSOLIKE:

20GorgeousSeasideTownsinItalyFodor'sTravel

Worlds20MostBeautifulTrainStationsFodor'sTravel

(http://www.fodors.com/news/photos/20gorgeousseasidetownsinitaly)

(http://www.fodors.com/news/photos/worlds20mostbeautifultrainstations)



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