A Complete Guide to Rabbit Care · the most well-intentioned people can get in over their heads without support. I hope this can guide you whether you have rabbit experience or not.

A Complete Guide to Rabbit Care

Intro into Rabbit Care (*Continued Care available to those

adopting from Bethany’s Bunnies)

By

Bethany Chatham

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Written and designed by Bethany Chatham Photography by Bethany Chatham

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Table of Contents (Available in my upcoming book to be released FALL 2020)

Introduction ……………………………………………………………………………………………………… pg. 4 Is a Rabbit the Right Pet for Me? ........................................................................................ pg. 3 Getting Started……………………………………………………………….………………………………….. pg. 8

Steps Towards Adoption pg. 5 Choosing a Breed pg. 10 Housing and Supplies pg. 9 Food pg. 11

Your Rabbit’s First Week Home pg. 7 Continued Care..……………………………………………………..…………………………………………,. pg. 13

Toys and Enrichment pg. 13 Holding Your Rabbit pg. 15 Basic Care pg. 17 Medical Care pg. 19 Getting Your Rabbit Fixed pg. 20

Behavior……………………………………………………………………………………,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,….. pg. 21 Litter Training pg. 21

Rabbit Proofing Your Home pg. 23 Understanding Behavior pg. 25 Training pg. 27 Stopping Bad Behavior pg. 29

Building Relationships………………………………………………………………….. pg. 30 Bonding a Rabbit Pair pg. 30 Bonding with Your Rabbit pg. 31 Introducing New Pets and People pg. 32 Connecting with Community pg. 34

The Tough Stuff…………………………………………………………………………….. pg. 35 Loss of Your Rabbit pg. 35 Re-homing pg. 36 When rabbits are neglected pg. 36 Breeding pg. 37

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INTRODUCTION Rabbits are currently the third most popular pet in the US after dogs

and cats. Unfortunately, that makes them just as likely to be abandoned or surrendered when people lose interest or don’t research ahead of time. Even the most well-intentioned people can get in over their heads without support. I hope this can guide you whether you have rabbit experience or not. There is ALWAYS more to learn.

I am not a vet. I do not know the answer to every rabbit problem. I have however been raising rabbits for 20+ years and that has taught me a lot. Not everyone who raises rabbits agrees 100% of the time and there are a lot of differing opinions. Always do research for yourself and remember to always do what is ethically right for your rabbit. When you adopt an animal, it is important to be responsible for its care and well-being. Based on my experience, I have put together some of the things you may need to know in order to provide a good life for your rabbit.

*I am not responsible for anything that happens to your rabbit while following this information. Please do your own research and only use this as a guideline. Should your rabbit show signs of illness please consult a vet.

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Large mixed-breed rescue: Color booted chinchilla Rabbits are not children’s pets! In fact, no animal is truly a “children’s

pet” besides possibly a betta, and even then, only with careful supervision. KIDS LOOSE INTEREST! Get them a stuffed animal. It’s soft, adorable and doesn’t nip, scratch, poop or chew through wires, and it doesn’t matter if the child doesn’t love it as much in 2 years. If you, as the adult/parent/guardian, are not more invested in the pet than the child is, then adopting one is not a good choice.

Rabbits typically live 8+ years. Does your 10-year life plan include caring

for a rabbit every day for the next 8-10+ years? Consider the future of your rabbit. Are you committed to finding pet friendly housing? If kids are involved, is the family committed to long-term care, even once the kids loose interest or the teen leaves for college? Because, trust me, kids don’t have a 10-year attention span! No pet should suffer or become homeless because the fun wears off. You should never adopt without proper plans for the future.

Is a Rabbit the Right Pet for me?

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Rabbits are not an easy pet. Owning a rabbit takes commitment, time and plenty of energy. While it can be extremely rewarding, its also a lot of work to do it well. If you want a pet that won’t test your resolve occasionally, then opt for something else.

Rabbits are not a place holder until you have kids or life gets too busy. Too many pets (cats and dogs included) get the boot as soon as life changes come along. EVERYONE has life changes. Your pets shouldn’t pay the price. If you are not confident that you could provide a full and happy life for a rabbit, no matter what life changes come along, then please do not get a rabbit.

Rabbits need considerable space. Even the smallest rabbits are larger than

a guinea pig. They are not ok in a small cage. Most cages found at pet stores are incredibly inadequate even if marketed for rabbits. Take a look at a cage, imagine an animal about the size of a toy-sized dog and tell me if that animal would be comfortable in that space for even half a day, let alone the amount of time many rabbits are caged. Also, unlike a hamster that could stay in a cage all day, every day and still be just fine, rabbits do not do well being caged 24/7.

Rabbits are smart and energetic. They need space and toys. Without

enough daily interaction and toys and enrichment, a rabbit can become aggressive, destructive or depressed just like other pets. Think of committing to a rabbit as you would think of committing to a cat or dog. Is your living situation and time commitment appropriate for this type of pet?

Rabbit breeds are all very different! A Chihuahua, and a Great Dane. A Pug

and a Basset Hound. What makes a dog breed different? Size. Disposition. Personality. Energy levels. Physical traits (long ears, smushed face). Rarity. Genetic health issues/physical challenges and limitations. There are 49 breeds of rabbits with all these same differences. And, like with dogs, mutt rabbits are still awesome!

With a rabbit, your house (and clothes) will never be 100% free of poo,

stray fur, and possible chew marks. Even the best-behaved rabbit will still leave the occasional poo pellets, will still shed (sometimes heavily) a couple of times a year and will at some point explore things with their mouth that you may not want them to.

Rabbits can be a cuddle buddy, your best friend, even a family member.

If you treat them with respect and care, and as a companion with their own personality and preferences, you will get their love in return.

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Young Holland Lop: Color Blue

Steps towards adoption You have decided a rabbit is the right pet for you. What next?

Here are some steps to help you prepare:

• Research, research, research!!! Even if you have had a rabbit before,

there is always more to learn and this is the time you are most motivated so please don’t say, “I will learn as I go.” Research the breed, proper housing for that breed, and start looking at supplies.

• You get what you pay for! If you pay $5-15 for a rabbit, you are likely to get little or no guidance and a bunny that may be sick, way too young, the wrong gender or may get much larger than you expect. Paying more for a rabbit likely comes with quality health and breeding and a life-long support system. If you aren’t committed to the cost then please don’t commit to a pet.

Getting Started

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• Start saving! I’m not saying you have to spend more money on your rabbit than you do on yourself on a regular basis, but the initial cost of purchasing appropriate supplies will be hefty. Some money can be saved by being thrifty or DIY but don’t sacrifice the rabbit’s wellbeing just to save cash. Doing it right FIRST will save you money in the long run because you won’t have to upgrade later. Buying a $200 cage isn’t so bad if it’s actually a good cage and lasts for many years. Buying from online retailers can be a good option but pictures can be deceiving so always check measurements and reviews.

• Decide on a breed. Find a reputable breeder or rescue and see what they have available. Keep in mind, these are busy people. Please have a good idea of what you are looking for (but be open to other options). Most breeders and rescues don’t have time to parade out every available rabbit and would really prefer that you narrow it down to one or two to ask questions about.

• Consider adopting an adult rescue or foster rabbit. These rabbits have so much love to give but are much less likely to be adopted and will get passed over for babies. When you adopt an adult, you can skip the wiggly baby stage and the “terrible teen” stage and you already know what their personality will be like.

• “Rescuing” a pet from a pet store or breeder that isn’t taking good care of their animals isn’t actually rescuing! Unfortunately, that just encourages them to put another poor animal in its place. So don’t purchase these animals to make you feel better that you “rescued”. Please consider adopting from rescue organizations or trusted small-scale breeders.

• Make a good impression by coming prepared to pick up your rabbit. If you have a small animal carrier, line it with a fleece blanket or rag towel to take home your new bundle of bunny joy. Have the owner’s number available to call in case you need help finding the location or are running late. PLEASE map your route ahead of time and PLEASE arrive on time. Arriving early puts the breeder/rescue on the spot and cuts into their personal time. Arriving late can be a huge inconvenience to the individual who took the time to make sure everything was ready on time for your arrival.

* Consider setting up a spay/neuter appointment ahead of time in case there is a wait for getting appointments.

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Choosing a breed Just like dogs have the AKC, rabbits have a similar institution, the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA), which makes decisions about which breeds are accepted and which rabbit breeders (rabbitries) meet requirements. The best place to find information about each breed is by visiting the ARBA website. There are 49 recognized rabbit breeds (as of 2020) and many more designer breeds that share some of the special traits of these breeds.

Here is what you should know about rabbit breeds:

• Many of these breeds are rare and hard to find. Some are good pets

but many are mainly raised for meet, show or fur. Please keep this in mind when choosing a breed, because unfortunately, people who raise for these purposes don’t typically socialize their rabbits or educate people on proper care. Many rescue rabbits are meet or show breeds that were adopted when young and then ended up being larger or more energetic or harder to take care of than the owners were prepared for.

• What is a pedigreed rabbit and is a pedigree important? A pedigree is simply a 3 (or more) generation family tree. A true pedigree should state the name and or/ear number (ID number), birth date and adult weight of each rabbit in the history. The pedigree name typically begins with the rabbitry name followed by the rabbit’s unique name (Example: Bethany’s Bunnies Calypso). You do not have to call your rabbit by its pedigree name. Even a pet rabbit can be pedigreed and the pedigree paper should be held on to for records. For breeding, a pedigree helps us learn about that rabbit’s genetics.

• Not all breeders are the same! “Backyard Breeder” is the term used for people who breed simply for profit and often don’t care about the quality of life of their breeders or the genetic and long-term quality for the rabbits they breed. These individuals don’t care about the impacts of the health or behavior of their rabbits and they don’t strive to support or educate new rabbit owners. That does not mean that people who breed in their back yard are bad as many small-scale breeders care about their rabbits treat them with care, respect and trips to the vet at any sign of illness.

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• Making sure to adopt from a reputable breeder that focuses on the type of rabbit that you are looking for is very important. Assuming that you are looking for a pet rabbit, feel free to ask questions to the breeder but keep in mind that these breeders are already putting a considerable amount of extra time into socialization of their babies and education of the new pet parents so please do your own research as opposed to asking common knowledge questions if you are able to find the answer through thorough general research. A breeder may feel the need to keep some anonymity so please respect their privacy. You don’t need to tour their private world to see if their rabbits are clean and well cared for prior to adoption.

Top Pet Breeds:

Mini rex are a small breed rabbit with a luxuriously soft fur coat and great personalities. They average 3-4 lbs. Due to their small size and calm personalities, these rabbits can be good for families with young kids, as classroom pets, and as therapy animals. Mini rex are a dwarf breed.

They are generally hypo-allergenic due to their low shed, short fur and minimized grooming. This can be a good breed for individuals with some allergies. No animal fur can ever be completely allergy free!!! Please consider this when choosing a pet.

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Holland Lops are a small breed rabbit with lopped ears and generally calm dispositions. They average 3-4 lbs. Holland Lops are the smallest of the lop breeds. In other parts of the world, Holland Lops are called Mini Lops. But don’t let that confuse you because in the US, Mini Lops are their own breed. They are a bit larger and have slightly different features. Due to their small size and gentle nature, these rabbits can be good starter pets and for families with young kids. Holland Lops are a dwarf breed. They have a medium length fur which does require some extra grooming and can get matted especially near their rear. They require an extra clean litter box or one with a grate over it to keep them from getting a soiled bottom.

Lionheads are a small breed rabbit with a precious furry mane and a lot of spunk. They average 2.5-3.5 lbs. They are small and cute but typically act like they have a lot to prove for being so small. Due to their energy and spunk, these rabbits are best for adults or families with teens. Lionheads are a dwarf breed. Their mane and skirt (fringe of fur around the back) mean that they normally need some extra grooming to make sure those areas stay clean. They require an extra clean litter box or one with a grate over it to keep them from getting a soiled bottom. Lionheads are either single-mane or double-mane based on genetics and that will determine how thick their mane and skirt is. Double-mane lionheads inherited a double copy of the ‘mane’ gene and are double as fluffy and double as much grooming!

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Flemish/Continental Giants are large breed rabbits with big ears, puppy dog personalities and a loping hop. They average 12-20+ lbs. There is definitely some overlap in size but Continental Giants are larger on average, have larger, broader ears and a taller, more arched body shape. Continentals are much newer to the US than Flemish but like all giants, they have origins in the Europe. Due to size, these rabbits need an incredible amount of space and should never be kept in a cage. They make fantastic free-range house rabbits or outdoor companions with dog kennels or custom-made enclosures. While these do ok with middle-aged or older kids, they can bite HARD when they are pushed passed their comfort zone and I do not recommend them around small children.

Mutts vary in size, shape and personality traits based on their parents. I took in an accidental litter once where one bunny looked just like a Lionhead, one looked just like a Holland Lop and one looked just like an average, straight-eared rabbit with no mane. It is important to find out as much as you can about

the rabbit’s individual traits so you find one that is a good fit for you.

In general, ‘mutts’ are animals that were mixed either on accident or due to inexperienced breeders or ones that were intended for meat but were sold as pets. In general, ‘mixes’ (often labeled F1, F2, etc.) are rabbits that are bred purposefully to meet a goal such as introducing new traits or producing new breeds or designer breeds. Most established breeders do not produce mutts because bettering certain breeds is the main goal of a good breeder. But many rescues are mutts, with so much to offer. Consider a mixed breed rabbit but make sure to account for its individuality.

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Housing: A rabbit’s cage is where it will spend much of its time especially while you are away. A cage should have suitable space for bunny to play and move and should be tailored to its potty skills. Rabbits are not fond of heights, so a cage should use horizontal space over vertical space. Rabbits can be housed outdoors or in but if housed outdoors, special care must be taken that the cage provides adequate safety from the elements and predators. Here are the cage requirements for a rabbit:

• I recommend an absolute minimum of 6 square feet (2’x3’) for the smallest breeds. Bigger is always better! A bored rabbit is a destructive rabbit that will either cause itself harm or drive you nuts. A smaller cage is suitable if it is being used only as a nighttime cage or home base.

• There are plenty of people that use smaller cages especially for larger scale breeding or because they picked up what the pet store said was ok. Just because there are people who do, doesn’t make it ideal.

• Shelter from the elements (if housing outside) and to provide a safe place to hide (whether housing inside or outside). Rabbits are prey animals and will be stressed if not given a hiding space.

• The cage should have either a solid floor or small (1/2”) galvanized

mesh floor with solid parts for resting feet. Giant rabbits should not be housed on wire.

• Mesh floors are best for long hair breeds or any rabbit that lacks litter

training as it allows the poo to fall. A solid floor with bedding will quickly become soiled and sitting waste can cause urinary tract infection or urine scald. Mesh is not generally harmful to rabbits and keeps the cage much more sanitary. Rabbits do need at least some solid flooring for resting their feet. Many people worry that mesh will harm their rabbit’s feet but rabbits have fully furred feet and unless the rabbit is prone to sore hocks from reduced fur on feet, then it is not “in-humane” to use a wire floored cage.

• Rabbits should never be housed in a pen with chickens or allowed to

graze in areas where chickens have recently been. Even healthy well-kept chickens can pass on Salmonella and Coccidia to rabbits.

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• Cages with solid plastic floors will usually need to be lined with a fleece blanket or textured linoleum to keep the rabbit from sliding around. Please DO NOT put wood shavings on the bottom of the cage! It is not only unsanitary, as wood shavings do not absorb urine, but also unhygienic overall since they stick to rabbit fur and are counter-productive to litter training. You would not want your whole bedroom to be a bathroom and neither does your rabbit.

The bottom cage would be ok for a

small breed rabbit. The top cage would not be appropriate for any adult

rabbit.

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➢ Outdoors:

• If you don’t feel comfortable keeping your rabbit outdoors, then don’t! But if you do choose to, don’t let people make you feel bad for housing your rabbit in the great outdoors. Just have the facts so that you are able to do it correctly and be an example for proper outdoor housing and care. Many people have concerns with temperature. With the correct, covered cage with lots of shade and protection from the elements, your rabbit will be just fine. I’ll give you some tips to keep them comfortable during extreme temperatures. Other people are concerned about a rabbit being on wire, which, you just learned can be ok for them to be on as long as they have resting spots. And, people are concerned that outdoor rabbits will get ignored. That is up to you to disprove by giving your rabbit the daily attention it needs.

• If you decide to build or commission a wood hutch, be sure to use

untreated, unpainted (at least on the inside) wood. Unfortunately, it won’t last as long but treated or painted wood is toxic and dangerous when rabbits chew on it.

• Store bought hutches may be tempting because of the price but be aware of some of the cons. These hutches are not predator proof and do not hold up to severe weather. Off the ground hutches tend to be too small. Hutches with a ground level do not typically come with mesh on the bottom to keep bunny from digging out or other animals from digging in. These hutches with a ground pen must be moved frequently to prevent waste build up, and to keep them from catching a number of diseases that they can get from living on the same patch of ground for too long. Outdoor hutches or pens that have access to the grass, must be moved frequently unless they are completely dirt! Not only will rabbits dig out but certain parasites lay eggs in grass where they see rabbits hanging out.

• Outdoor hutches/cages or even pens for play time, must have constant

shade as rabbits are very sensitive to heat. These cages must also have adequate warmth during the winter. During the hot months, frozen soda bottles (filled 2/3rds with water), large tiles to lay on and frozen fruits can be fun ways to keep bunny cool. During the cold months, socks filled with rice can be heated in the microwave for a couple of minutes, heat lamps can be placed in their cage (out of reach and really well attached), and lots of straw or hay can be used to fill the nest box or sheltered area to provide warmth. Keep hutches in shade!

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STURDY, SPACIOUS HUTCHES

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OUTDOOR PEN FOR GIANT BREED RABBITS (5’x10’)

(Photo coming soon!)

OUTDOOR HANGING-STYLE CAGES (2’x4’)

HUTCHES THAT ARE TOO SMALL!

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➢ Indoors:

• When it comes to housing rabbits indoors, many people unfortunately

lean towards smaller cages to save space in their home. If space is a problem then please consider a different, smaller pet or housing outdoors or free-roam. Cages with plastic bottoms often taper towards the bottom and offer even less standing space than they claim. Shallow plastic platforms are typically too low for a rabbit to comfortably hide under and are often unusable space.

• Pens such as X-pens or hard plastic or sturdy aluminum pens can be an affordable way to give your rabbit a lot of space. But keep in mind that rabbits are expert escape artists and can climb and jump like nobody’s business if they are determined enough. An open top cages also don’t keep any other pets out. Flooring for a pen can be made from floor tiles or even by making a base from non-treated plywood with a linoleum floor for easy cleaning.

• Protecting the area around the cage is something you should consider.

Rabbits may have accidents, may miss the litter box, etc. and you do not want that to ruin your floors or walls. Urine guards to each side of the litter box or in other corners will help prevent urine from getting on the wall. Washable mattress protectors (the padded ones, not the plastic sheets) are an excellent way to make sure nothing happens to your floors and can be placed under the cage or under the attached run if you have one.

• Hutches can be used in an indoor space. Store-bought hutches can be

ideal in these situations because they are light and easy to move but provide a lot of space.

• The cage should be placed in a location that will not be stressful to

the rabbit or you. Some rabbits may be ok with or even enjoy being right in the middle of the action. Some people choose to keep their rabbit in the breakfast nook or the living room where the rabbit can see, smell and hear everything. That is not comfortable for all rabbits so you may need to find a location that is not in the middle of the of daily activity. That does not mean that your rabbit’s cage should be put in a location where the rabbit is likely to get ignored, either. Offices make good locations. You should also consider your own stress. Some

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people enjoy a rabbit cage in their bedroom but many people don’t want a rabbit making lots of noise while they are trying to sleep.

SPACIOUS INDOOR CAGES

(Photos coming soon!)

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PEN-STYLE ENCLOSURES

CAGES THAT ARE TOO SMALL

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➢ Free-roaming:

• Free-roaming is for indoors. There are too many dangers outdoors to let a rabbit free-roam in the yard. I have seen some well-done outdoor free-roam habitats that provide tons of shelter and precautions to keep them from escaping or digging out but please do a LOT of extra research before considering this. Smaller rabbits are much more likely to get eaten by predators (hawks, foxes, etc.) and are typically harder to catch when needed. Some large rabbits may free-roam in a very well fenced back yard during play-time only unless you are absolutely certain that your yard is suitable for extended stays in the yard.

• Free-roaming rabbits should still have a “home base” where the litter

box, and food/water can be easily accessed and a mat or cage can be used as a safe space.

• Most rabbits have difficulty traversing slick flooring so rugs or carpet

may be necessary but can also be used to successfully keep rabbits confined to desired areas.

• Rabbit proofing your home can be a challenge but is necessary for

free-roaming. Expect rabbits to be mischievous and to leave marks on the floorboards. It is probably best not to free-roam in a rental home!

➢ Outdoor playtime:

• The use of a pen or well fitted harness is definitely recommended. Very few rabbits will willingly come back when you are ready. A pen should have a shade cover to keep them from ever being in full sun if you leave the cage unattended for any amount of time. Full sun in the summer can be deadly in minutes. Predators such as hawks can also go after smaller rabbits that aren’t covered. I suggest only having your rabbits out when you are out. Rabbits can also dig out pretty which is another reason to not leave them unattended.

• Make sure they never have access to plants that are toxic or have been sprayed with pesticides/fertilizer. Mushrooms, funguses and rotting branches should also be avoided.

* Especially for indoor housing and free-roaming, getting your rabbit fixed is one of the only ways to get good potty skills.

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Supplies: While a cage is most certainly the biggest single purchase you will make before getting a rabbit, there are other things that a rabbit needs to make the cage/enclosure/safe space a home. Here are some other things you may need:

• Water Bottle/Water Dish: I personally recommend a bottle

because I can tell you from experience, rabbits always manage to use the bathroom in open water dishes, even crocks that attach to the side. If your rabbit was previously using a dish, you may need to offer both until it gets the hang of a water bottle. Water bottles should be filled to the top to create a vacuum and if it drips more than a few times once it is inverted, try tipping it back upright, squeezing in on the sides just a very little and then turning it back down before letting it go. *I DO NOT recommend water bottles with a spring tip or any that fill from the top. I have known people whose rabbits have died from dehydration because these are so hard to use!

• Food Dish: I recommend something that attaches to the side of the

cage so that a rabbit is unable to dump it over, sit in it or use it for a bathroom. I like the J-shaped feeders that fill from the top but crocks are nice because they can be easily removed for cleaning. Combination hay racks and food dishes are available and hold plenty food for 1-2 rabbits. They are very convenient, easy to move and easy to clean but my one complaint is that rabbits inevitably remove the metal grate from over the hay portion to use it as a toy to throw around.

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• Hay Rack: Should you choose to purchase a hay rack that is separate from the food dish, there are a couple of kinds you can choose from. Some hay racks have slats on each side which means hay can be pulled (or just fall) from either side. If this type of rack is hung from the side of your cage, chances are, hay will fall from the backside onto the floor outside the cage. The other type of hay rack is the one I recommend. It is solid, usually on the backside and the sides. These are normally designed to hang outside your cage, which makes them easy to fill and will mostly contain hay from falling on the wrong side of the cage.

• Litter Box: The litter box you choose should be determined by the rabbit’s size and needs first, available space second and then personal preference is last. Square kitten or cat boxes are best if you have the space or if you have a larger rabbit. A rabbit should be able to put its whole body in the litter box. For smaller spaces and smaller rabbits, a corner litter box made for small animals is also fine. Get one with a grate if your rabbit has medium to long fur or tends to sit in the litter box more than it should. A cat litter box can have a grate just by adding a cookie cooling rack. *See the section on litter box training for more information on litter. My recommendation is pine pellets.

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• Hut or Hide: Large enough for the rabbit to turn around comfortably in, is important for allowing your rabbit a safe space that it can go at any time. A see-through hut, like an igloo-style small animal hut, does not provide the same feeling of safety as something solid. A little, chewable seagrass hut may make a good enrichment item but does not constitute an actual safe space for your rabbit. I build my own (8” tall x 10”wide x 16”deep for my small breed rabbits) out of non-treated plywood. I use small dog houses for the large-breed rabbits. A hide should be big enough for them but should not take up more than 1/4th of the cage. I like to make mine short enough that my rabbits can jump on top and it gives them more useable room in their cage.

• Nail Trimmers: There is really only one type of nail cutter for

animals with round nails. They look like scissors and are the same if you buy from the small animal, bird or cat section of the store.

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Shopping List: (Please be sure to read all sections on appropriate cages, food and supplies before purchasing items)

o Appropriately Sized Cage/Hutch/Pen o Hut/Hide (preferably wood) o Water Bottle (or Water Dish) o Food Dish o Hay Rack o Toys and Chew o Plain Pellet Food o Timothy (or Orchard) Hay o Nail trimmers o Grooming Brush

Optional: o Litter Box (Big enough for the rabbit to fit its whole body in.) o Litter (Ideally Pine Pellets) o Urine Guards/Mattress Protector o Cage Liner (Blanket, Towel, Rest Matt) o Small Animal Carrier for Transport o Exercise Pen o Cord Covers

* Consider taking a picture of this page when you go shopping for supplies!

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Food: Rabbits are Herbivores, mostly feeding on soft grasses. Instead of having multiple-chambered stomachs (like cow’s have) to help process plant matter, rabbits choose to digest the food twice to maximize nutrient intake. Rabbits produce a soft clump of poo called Cecotropes or Night droppings which they immediately ingest so you will rarely see them. If you see clumps of this extra sticky poo then your feed probably has too much protein.

Here is what you will need to provide daily:

• Hay- A constant supply of high-quality hay is a must for proper

digestion! The stuff fed to livestock can be moldy or contain bad bacteria that can harm your rabbit. Hay should be fresh and clean. Timothy is the best option. Orchard hay is just fine but some rabbits can be picky. Alfalfa can be fed occasionally but is too sweet to be fed normally. Straw makes good bedding but is not edible.

• Pellets- Provide a daily supply of basic rabbit food pellets without a lot of additives. 16 % protein is preferable though 15%-18% is fine as long as the rabbit does well on the feed. If they don’t want to eat it or dig at their bowl, it could mean protein is too low. If you are seeing cecotropes, the feed may have too much protein or there may be some underlying condition if it continues for too long. Some common brands are Mana Pro, Purina and Nutrena. Feed stores like Tractor Supply or your local Feed and Seed are good places to buy for an affordable price. Oxbow and Mazuri are good brands that sell in smaller amounts. DO NOT buy food with seeds, or colored, processed pieces. Pellets should be plain, hay-based pellets without added crap. Your rabbit’s salad should look like a fiesta, your rabbit’s pellets should not!

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^ Your rabbit’s food should NEVER look like this!

• Chews: These can be toys, specially made for rabbits to chew on or clean, safe wood (like Willow or Apple or Maple) from your yard. Rabbits are Lagomorphs, not rodents but they still have continually growing incisors.

* Mineral block: A mineral wheel or block is not necessary. If providing the right kind of food, necessary minerals will already be part of their diet.

Here is what you can also feed your rabbit: (For a full list of rabbit safe/unsafe items, please check a reputable online site)

• Fresh Greens: Collard greens, Kale, Turnip/Mustard greens, Leafy

lettuce, Parsley, Cilantro

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• Veggies: Bell peppers, Carrots, Celery, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Zucchini

• Small amounts of fruits: Apple, Grape, Banana, Strawberry, Blueberry, Watermelon

• Yard greens: (Wild greens should NOT be fed if there are ANY pesticides, fertilizers or additives to the yard) Plantain, Dandelion, Clover (white and purple), wild strawberry, most grasses

If you decide to feed fresh veggies/greens, be sure to start with only a little bit of it per day for a month so that their digestive system can get use to it. Rabbits will eagerly take fresh greens, and if they are not use to getting fresh greens yet, it can make them very ill. It is advised to wait until the rabbit is at least 3 months of age before introducing them to fresh fruits.

Here is what you should avoid:

• Almost any store-bought treats, especially those with yogurt,

seeds, sugar, corn, molasses (such as most seed/treat blocks) • Gassy foods like beans, cabbage and dairy • Toxic foods like green or growing potatoes and rotting or moldy

foods • Processed foods like bread, chips, and cereal • Sugary foods • Human foods like chocolate and anything with alcohol • Foods containing meat product of any type • Foods with little nutritional value such as Iceberg lettuce • Plants in the nightshade family like the tomato plant.

*Contrary to popular belief, spaying or neutering your rabbit will not greatly increase their chances of being overweight.

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Your rabbit’s first week at home: A change in situation can be a hard transition. If you are purchasing your rabbit as a youngster, please don’t bring it home until it is a minimum of 8 weeks old. If the breeder tries to sell earlier, it is in the rabbits best interest if you ask them if it can stay a little longer. Yes, they are weaned before then but between 6 and 8 weeks, they are still doing some critical development. At 8 weeks (12 weeks for giant breeds) a bunny is ready to leave its family. Do not feel sorry for breaking up a bunny family, as mom will be very ready for her young to leave home by that point. Here are some things you can do to help your rabbit settle into its new home:

• As tempting as it may be to play with your bunny and introduce it to everyone as soon as you make it home, it is best to give your rabbit plenty of time to settle in. For the first day or two, do not handle more than necessary and be sure to provide bunny with plenty of places to hide and a calm, quiet room. Make sure any introductions to new people, animals or spaces is slow and well monitored.

• If the breeder gave you a bag of transition food (if not then ask

them for it), you should use that food to slowly transition to their new food. Start by only feeding the transition food the first day and slowly adding in the new food a little more every day until they are only eating their new feed. This will help keep bunny from getting diarrhea which is very dangerous for rabbits. Also, don’t feed them treats at this time and when you do introduce treats, do it a little at a time.

• Keep an eye on their food and water intake and poo production.

Not eating can be a sign that they are not adjusting well but don’t confuse you not seeing them eat for them not eating. They may just be doing it while you are not watching. Same for drinking. But if the water level is not going down in a water bottle, you should offer a shallow dish of water right away and check that your bottle is working properly and that the breeder/owner used a bottle. Diarrhea (different then cecotropes) is extremely dangerous and can be caused by intense stress.

• This is a good time to begin bonding with your rabbit and to begin

litter training (see sections on bonding and litter training). Good habits are best being started from the beginning.

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Litter training: Rabbits do not take to litter training as naturally as cats. They can learn but it takes patience and training and even then, they may not use it 100%. Litter boxes do provide the advantage of not having to clean an entire cage quite as often and this can save a lot of time and work. Hay and cedar should NEVER be used as litter. Hay does not absorb and cedar is toxic.

Avoid filling a cage with litter like you would with a guinea pig or other smaller animal. Rabbits should never be spending their time on litter. Litter should only be used in the litter box.

Here are some ideas that will help you get started: • Use a large pan. Corner litter boxes that are sold for small

animals like rabbits are ok, but it is hard for a bunny to get all the poo in a small space. Try using a litter box that is large enough for bunny to get its whole body into.

• A litter box with a grate over it can help minimize sitting directly in the litter box and will help keep your rabbit cleaner. This is especially great for longer hair breeds. If your litter box does not come with a grate, you can easily make one using ½” wire mesh with the sides folded under, egg crating found at the hardware store, or even a cooling rack from the kitchen section (as long as the spaces are big enough).

• Observe which corner your rabbit normally goes potty in and put the litter box there.

• Sweep or scoop any waste that falls outside of the litter box and dump it in the litter box, so bunny understands that that is where poo goes.

• Keep the cage clean of any urine or soft items that bunny may pee on.

• Never use Cedar shavings for any small animal. Cedar releases chemicals that give it it’s strong scent, but these chemicals are toxic if inhaled over long periods. Pine shaving are also not ideal for the same reason. Paper or Aspen bedding offer safe options for the main portion of the cage. For the litter box, compressed pine pellets (these are not as “dusty” as pine shavings) work very well to reduce odor and absorb urine.

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• Cat litter is not a good option because clay (or even walnut or specialty litters) is something rabbits prefer to dig in or eat as opposed to potty in. Eating it is especially hazardous, because most of these substances would cause severe intestinal blockage or worse.

• Hay is food not bedding. Hay and straw do not absorb and should not be used to line a cage or as litter.

• While free-roaming or during play time, keep the cage open so the rabbit can access the litter box at all times. If the rabbit has access to a large space, an extra litter box at the other end of the space may be needed. Think about a toddler. If they need to go potty and they don’t have quick access to the bathroom, it may result in accidents.

*Potty habits greatly improve in a fixed rabbit. Rabbits will pee and poo outside of the litter box to mark the area as their own when they are unaltered.

Rabbit proofing your house: Rabbits are kind of like toddlers. They are

curious, and they like to test things with their mouths. Here are some things you need to be aware of: • Plants- Be very careful to keep houseplants out of reach of bunny.

Some of them can be very toxic. For example, Poinsettias are very toxic to rabbits (and cats) so pet owners should avoid having them in the house.

• Cords- Always cover cords or keep them out of reach. They are dangerous, and your rabbit is likely to chew on them if they have access to them. Slipping cords and wire through some PVC pipe works well in the event cords must stay where they are, as PVC is very difficult for the rabbit to chew through. Cord covers can also be purchased very inexpensively at any hardware store.

• Always keep your floor clear of anything that a rabbit could get their leg caught on. Major spinal injuries can occur if a rabbit gets caught by the leg and panics. A broken spine is almost always fatal.

*Rabbits have a much stronger need to be into everything if they are not fixed.

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Getting your rabbit fixed: Not only will it reduce spraying, odor, pooping outside the litter box and chances of testicular cancer in males but it often helps with behavioral problems such as mounting behavior, anxiousness, aggression towards a male or altered females and trying to escape to get to females. In females it will reduce the chance of reproductive cancers and tumors, and it can also reduce aggression and moodiness that comes from being “broody” and territorial as well as the physical stress of raging hormones and possible false pregnancies. Getting your rabbit fix can make them happier and healthier, will improve their behavior and may increase their lifespan. We have had so many rabbits brought to us to rehome simply because of behaviors that would have been easily fixed by getting the rabbit altered. A fixed rabbit will be calmer and easier to hold, less likely to nip, scratch and chew, have better potty skills and over all better behavior. It is selfish to get a rabbit (if getting it as a pet) and then not get it fixed. Money or time constraints are not valid excuses. Even if housing a rabbit by itself, please do the right thing for your pet rabbit and get them fixed!

Here are some tips if you are planning to get your rabbit altered: • Go to a local Spay and Neuter center. Not only do they offer the

best prices, but they do the procedure every day, so they know what they are doing. In Memphis, you can find the most affordable prices at Spay Memphis but be sure to make your appointment early as they do book up quickly.

• If they tell you to withhold food or water, DO NOT DO IT! Unlike cats and dogs, rabbits cannot vomit. Continue to give them food like normal and even provide fresh hay that they can eat as soon as they wake up.

• Remember that males can still produce sperm for up to 6 weeks after getting neutered so keep them away from any un-altered females.

• As with any surgery, there are risks. If you are concerned about the risks then do some research first but don’t let a small number of bad experiences, keep you from also considering the huge number of benefits and good experiences.

• Keep in mind that rabbits cannot be shown if they are fixed! If you plan to show with 4-H or anywhere else, then your rabbit should not get fixed. In these instances, rabbits that are not fixed but not being bred, should be housed separately and not be in smelling range of rabbits of the opposite gender to avoid aggression or excessive mounting. Accidental litters due to determined individuals (male and female) are a risk if they are housed to closely. You may be surprised what a rabbit can get out of when love is in the air.