A Bag for All Reasons: Make Fabulous Fabric Bags for Every Occasion by Lisa Lam

8/2/2019 A Bag for All Reasons: Make Fabulous Fabric Bags for Every Occasion by Lisa Lam

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12 all-new bags and purses to sew for every occasion

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“Thank you Lisa for bringing such lovely style to our bag making world!” – Amy Butler



Introduction 4

Getting Started

Basic Equipment 6

The Sewing Machine 8

Using Patterns 10

Modifying Patterns 11

Understanding Patterns 12

Fabric Types 14

Fabric Preparation and Cutting 16

Techniques

Flush Zip Pocket 18

Top Edge Zip 22

Slimline Concealed Top Edge Zip 24

Magnetic Snaps 27

Open-End Straps 28

Closed-End Straps 29

Adjustable Straps 30

Bound Edges 32

Piped Edges 34

Inserting Linings: Pull Through

and Turn Out Method 36

Projects

The Geek-Chic iPad Case 40

The Compact Groceries Tote 48

The Access-All-Areas Pouch 56

The Toddler-Friendly Backpack 62

The ‘Too Cool for School’ Satchel 70

The Pleated Purse-Frame Purse 78

The All-Sorted Laundry Bag 86

The Fashionista Baby Bag 92

The Double-Pannier Bicycle Bag 112

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack 122

The Terrific Tri-Fold Wallet 136

The Train-Style Vanity Case 144

Suppliers 154

Resources 155

Pattern Legend 156

About the Author / Acknowledgements 158

Index 159

Contents



Introduction

When anyone asks me what I love most about sewing I tell them,

‘I love how sewing never gets boring!’ As far as I – and millions of

other sewists – are concerned, sewing is one of the coolest, most

satisfying and useful pastimes out there. If you are just about to

embark on your sewing career, welcome to the club: be prepared

to become very addicted, very quickly, for a very long time!

We sewists are a resourceful bunch – we have to be. For a start,

most of us don’t have unlimited amounts of fabric and time on

our hands. I am such a craft fiend that I HAVE to do some sewing

every week (unless I’m on holiday) or I get jittery! This is why Itry to get the most out of my limited crafting time and I like to do

this by sewing items that will be used time and time again. But an

item’s usefulness is only half the story. For me, the best designs

are fab to look at and just as fab to use. Bags are the ultimate

useful accessory – we all need them, we all use them and we all

like them to look great too.

With this in mind, I have designed 12 fully featured bags for

this book that I hope you’ll agree look stylish and professional.

But more importantly, these bags are all designed to be totally

practical and enjoyable to use in real-life situations. It goes

without saying: the more useful something is, the more often

you’re going to use it, right? And time is too precious to spend

hours making something only for it to end up forlorn at the back

of a cupboard.

12 styl hly eful bags designed for real-life situatio… a pr y

bag nice, but a pr y and practical bag PERFECT!“

”



While the more fully featured bags are aimed at the intrepid bag

maker, I’ve also included some great projects, which are perfect

for the excited sewing newbie. As readers of my blog and myfirst book, The Bag Making Bible , will already know, I tend to

shy away from easy quick-fix projects because I love making bags

that will get people wondering if my new bag is store-bought:

‘Really? You made it? No way!’ And this is why I like to include

practical features like oodles of pockets, hardware and exciting

shapes. Don’t worry if these features seem out of reach – they’re

not, they’re right inside this book and yours for the making! You’ll

also find loads of my reinforcing, stitching and ‘make your life

easier’ tips and tricks within these pages. As usual, I’ve tried to

write simple-to-follow instructions and to include plenty of helpful

photos – so we can have more crafting fun and less frustration!

For this book I wanted to create bags that will hopefully make you

think: ‘Wow! That’s cool, I can really see myself/my friend/my

son loving this and using this.’ With each project you try, I hope

you’ll feel rewarded with a bag that is a joy to wear, to use and/or

to give. After all, the warm happy feeling you get when you see

your loved-ones enjoying using your handcrafted bag can’t be

beaten! So, when your mum-to-be friend is in need of a super-

practical baby bag, or you want a stylish way to carry groceries

on your bike, or you fancy a wedding clutch that looks a million

dollars, reach for this book and we’ll have fun making your own

unique and stylishly useful bag – that suits your needs and suits

the way that you live.

Love bags: make bags!

Hugs,

L a xL a x

Visit me at my bag-making

blog and say hello:http://u-handbag.typepad.com/



Linen – this versatile,

hardwearing and natural

fabric is available in

both dress and home decweight. The linen that bag

makers like to use is the

natural biscuit-coloured

home dec weight fabric.

The colour of the undyed

cloth with its attractive

irregular weave makes it

a great foil for embroidery

and/or patterned fabrics.

Laminated cloth/oilcloth –

usually used for the exterior

of bags, this vinyl-coated

fabric comes in fantastic

prints and has a tough

waterproof surface, making it

perfect for swim bags, travel

bags and wash bags. Working

and stitching with laminated

cloth is a bit different to

working with woven fabrics,

see tip and Working with

laminated cotton overleaf.

Fabric TypesFabric falls into two main categories: dress (or fashion)

weight and upholstery/curtain (or home dec) fabric. As bag

makers, we can use both types – dress-weight fabric is

generally better suited to bag linings and upholstery fabric

is better for bag exteriors, However, that is only a loose

rule and there are interfacing tricks that you can apply

to your fabrics to override that rule. Here are some fabric

suggestions that work a treat for bag making.

Cotton/quilt fabric – this

type of fabric is used both inthe lining and the exterior

of bags. Cotton is available

in many different weights,

but for bag making try to

use mid-weight cotton and

up. Quilting fabric is usually

made from cotton and

comes in a fantastic array ofcolourful, beautiful and fun

prints. You can use cotton for

almost any type of bag.

Oilcloth know how ...

Oilcloth know-how ...If you plan to sew with laminatedcloth regularly, it woh

investing in a non-stick sewingmachine ft.



2

Stitch the zip pull ends together – take a hand-

sewing needle and hand stitch the zip pull endstogether. See Fig b.

3 Mark and make a hole for the zip – take your

zip and measure the length of the zip teeth (not

the length of the zip itself). Now draw a rectangle

as wide as your zip teeth by 1cm (3 ⁄ 8in) high onto

the WS centre of one of the pocket fabric pieces.

This rectangle will be the hole for your zip and it

needs to be drawn at least 5cm (2in) down from thetop edge of your pocket fabric. Finally, in the middle

of the rectangle draw a centre line with a V-shape

at both ends. See Fig c1–c2.

Fig b Hand stitch the zip pull ends together for a

professional-looking zip – you don’t have to be very neat

as these hand stitches won’t be on show.

Fig c1–c2 To gauge the width of the rectangle, measure the

length of the zip teeth (not the whole zip). The rectangular

hole needs to be drawn at least 5cm (2in) down from the top

edge of the pocket fabric.

b

c2

c1

he beauty of nylon …The beauty of nylon …I prefer nylon zs becae youcan safely cut them and sewthrough them without huing

your scsors or sewing machine.



Bound EdgesBinding an edge has the effect of adding

an attractive fabric border to the edge.

This makes it a good way of adding a flash

of colour and strengthening the edge. Try

binding the top edges of pockets, the top edge

of your bag or your bag flaps.

You will need • 1 strip of folded and

pressed bias binding. To

gauge the height and

length of your binding

see Need to know

1 Fold and press the binding – take the pre-foldedbinding tape and press an off-centre crease

along the length of the binding. See Fig a.

Fig a Fold the binding lengthways so that the bottom

folded edge doesn’t quite meet the top folded edge.a

Need to know

• To gauge the height of the binding tape, decide on the height of the finished

bound edge, multiply that by four and add 3mm (1 ∕ 8in). If you want your

finished bound edges to be 1cm (3 ∕ 8in) tall, your binding will need to be

4.3cm (15 ∕ 8in).

• To gauge the length of the binding, measure around all around the edge of

the item and add 8cm (31 ∕ 8in) for folding in.

• All seam allowances are 5mm (3 ∕ 16in) unless stated otherwise.

• If trimming pocket tops, make up your pocket and add the binding BEFORE

stitching the pocket to your bag. Fold in both short edges of the binding at

either end so as to conceal the raw edges.

• If trimming bag flaps, make up your flap and apply the binding BEFORE

stitching the flap to your bag.



T he P l e at e d P u r se - F r ame P u r se T he Al l -Sor t ed Laund r y Bag

T he Doubl e-P annier Bic y cl e BagT he 3- i n- 1 C o nv e r t i b l e Bac k p ac k

The Terrific Tri F ldW ll t T



The Geek-Chic iPad Case

Here’s a case that’s looks more like a smart handbag than a

tablet cosy, so you can carry your iPad in ultimate style. The

case is really easy to put together – what makes it look so

professional (dare I say designer?) are the leather straps and metal

hardware. There’s nothing plain and boring about this case!

Front view Swish straps and

shiny metalware transform a simple

fabric envelop into a very chic case.

Side view The case has a neat

and slim profile so your iPad will

be nice and snug inside.

Inside view A well-cushioned

inner compartment and two handy

front pockets for all your essentials.

Features you’ll love

Finished size: 27 x 22cm (105∕8 x 85∕8in)

Designed to be protective it pr y – specialt inteacingwi take gd care of your gadget

The handle cls on and offso you can wear the ce

a bag or a clutch desired

Rivets hold the leather strsin place and lk so professional

Lks jt sma a man’s

version – jt sw the fabrito suit and t lengthening thehandle to an over-the-body length









Fig d2 Push the seams of the gap into the hole, fold them

down and ensure the folded edges line up with the rest of

the top edge of the pocket before ironing.

d2

9 Interface the pocket with extra-stiff interfacing

– roll up the extra-stiff pocket interfacing (from

the sides) and insert it through the gap in the top

edge of the pocket. Unroll the interfacing inside

the pocket layers. Look into the gap and line up

the (top and bottom edge) centre markings of the

pocket fabric and the extra-stiff interfacing. SeeFig e. When you have lined up the markings, hold

the interfacing firmly in place with your fingers and

iron the interfacing to the pocket layers, ironing on

both sides of the pocket. Topstitch the top edge of

the pocket (stitching the gap shut as you sew) with

a 5mm (3 ⁄ 16in) seam allowance. Begin and end your

topstitches 5mm (3 ⁄ 16in) in from the side edges.

Fig e Lining up the centre marks is a little fiddly, but it is

important to get the interfacing positioned in the centre

of the pocket (because it will make stitching the bag parts

together much easier) so take your time.

e

et steamy …Get steamy …

When ironing the extra-stiff inteacinginto the pocket, e plenty of steamto eure a strong bond betwn the

inteacing and the fabric .

10Stitch the front pocket gusset – bring the

front pocket gusset fabric pieces RST, pin and

stitch all around leaving a 12.5cm (5in) gap in one

of the long edges for turning out. Clip the corners,

iron the seams open and turn RSO through the gap.

Push out the corners. Push the seams of the gapinto the hole as in Step 8. Iron the pocket gusset

and topstitch both short edges with a 5mm (3 ⁄ 16in)

seam allowance. Begin and end your topstitches

5mm (3 ⁄ 16in) in from the side edges.

11 Assemble the front pocket – find and mark

the centre bottom edge of the pocket, repeat

with the long edge of the pocket gusset. Matching

the centre marks and edges of both pieces, bringthe pocket and the pocket gusset pieces lining

sides together. Use sewing clips to clip the two

pieces together all around the bottom and side

edges of the pocket. Stitch the gusset to the

pocket with a 5mm (3 ⁄ 16in) seam allowance. Stitch

on the gusset side. Stitch the gap (in the gusset)

shut in this step or in Step 13 (either way makes

no difference). As you stitch around the curvedcorners, periodically stop to check that the gusset

corner fabric is not bunching up underneath your

needle and smooth out if necessary. With the WS of

the pocket facing up, fold the pocket gusset in half

by matching the long edges of the gusset with the

edges of the pocket. Iron the fold. See Fig f .

Fig f Neatly folding the pocket gusset in half will help you

to stitch the pocket neatly to the bag front in Step 13.

f





M a k e i t m i n e …Si ze – t o suit t he y oung er member s of t he f amily y ou c an

mak e t he bag smaller .

P at c hw or k – t his bag w ould look f abulous in pat c hw or k ed

f abr ic s – hav e a look at y our sc r aps and see w hat y ou c ould

piec e t og et her .

E mbel l i shment – w hy not t r y sew ing some y ummy lar g e

bobble t r im on t he bo om edg e of t he bag ? Or per sonalize

t he bag by stt c hing initals, c ut e animals, flow er s, t r uc k s and

so on ont o t he f r ont of t he bag .

This large bag gives you plenty of room to

experiment with your larger, showier patterns

– so have fun with the fabric choice!

Assembling the bag

8

Stitch the lining and the exterior together –

stitch the lining to the exterior using the pull

through and turn out method (see Inserting Linings:

Pull Through and Turn Out Method, Steps 4–6 in the

Techniques section). In Step 5 of this method, you

will need to stitch around the top edge with a 2cm

(¾ in) seam allowance. Topstitch around the top

edge of the bag 1cm (3 ⁄ 8in) from the edge. Topstitch

again, this time 5mm (3 ⁄ 16in) from the edge.

9 Thread the ties into the tie casings – use abodkin (or a safety pin) to thread one of the ties

through one of the tie casings. You need to thread

the tie all around the bag (so you will be threading

the tie through both of the casings). Knot the ends

together. Take the other tie and repeat, beginning

at the opposite side to the side you threaded the

first tie at. All done! Pop your new pretty laundry

bag onto the back of the bedroom door. Who says

laundry storage has to look boring?



The Bicycle Double-Pannier Bag

Accessorize your beloved two-wheeler in style with this roomyset of panniers. The new laminated cottons are just perfect for this

project. Go to town with jewel-bright colours and big, bold patterns

for panniers that are sure to bring cheer to your bike (and a smile

to anyone who sees them). I’ll race you to the shops!

Front view Roomy box-shape

panniers waiting to be filled with

groceries, gym gear and so on.

Pocket open Simple but secure

flap-and-buckle fastenings make

the panniers super-practical.

Side/back view These traditional

postman-style bicycle panniers will

look great on any bike!

Finished size: 37 x 32 x 1 3.5cm (14½ x 125∕8 x 53∕8in)

Features you’ll love

Laminated cloth on theiide and outside of thbag makes for a coletelywaterprf design

Ey-fix Velcro lps make the bagsile to aach to most types of

bicycle paier rack – the paier ao sile to remove should youwant to take it with you

Spacio paiers wi eilystore a whole day’s woh of gear









About the Author Lisa Lam is a London College of Fashion graduate who is

founder of U-Handbag.com – an online store specializing in

bag-making supplies. This is her second book. Her first book,

The Bag Making Bible is an international bestseller, selling

over 60,000 copies worldwide to date (when she was told that

she had to sit down).

At work (if you could call it that) she is also a sewing pattern

and bag designer and her work regularly features in craft

magazines. Lisa lives by the sea in Brighton with husband

Alan, their little girl and friendly dog Beans. Lisa’s second

home is the crafting community on the web (or crafti-verse)

from which she writes her craft blog, chats with fellow bag

makers on Facebook and is constantly amazed by the talent

and wit of her fellow crafters.

AcknowledgementsBiggest thanks go my customers and readers – many of you whom

I’ve ‘known’ from the beginning. Thank you so much for your

company over the years. Your open warmth and encouragement

is constant source of inspiration (and a great comfort during times

book writing wasn’t so forthcoming)! Thanks go to all readers who

gave me their precious feedback during the design process for this

book’s projects. Thanks go to Amy and David Butler for being such

an amazing pair of designers and for being two beautiful people

(in every sense of the word). Thanks go to Christine Doyle, Nancy

Soriano and Barbara Slavin for looking after me and showing me a

good time in the USA. Thanks also go the team at David & Charles:

Ali Myer for her enthusiasm and talking me round, Charly Bailey,

I love how you’ve made this book look, James Brooks, for jumping

though the many hoops, Katy Denny my patient editor for being my

craft book and mum-to-be confidante, Ame Verso for being my ‘all-

seeing ninja’ project editor. Thanks to the generous Rosanne Derrett

for proofreading alongside us. Thanks to my agent Jane Graham

Maw for taking care of the ‘formal stuff’. Thanks to (brilliantly fussy)

Jack Kirby of Bangwallop Photography for taking the fab instruction

shots, you’re great to work with. Thanks also go to art director

Michelle Thompson, photo stylist Jodi Kahn and photographerScott Jones for taking the ace styled shots of the bags in New

York; you’ve really brought them to life! And lastly, big thanks to

Coats for providing me with the absolutely yummy fabric, zips and

threads used throughout this book.



From the author of the bestselling The Bag Making Bible

(over 70,000 copies sold) comes an outstanding collection

of 12 inspiring bags for you to make at home.

✧ 12 bags and purses for every occasion✧ Full-size pull-out patterns to use right away

✧ Fully photographed step-by-step instructions

CRAFT

“T his inf o r mat io n-r ic h b o o k w ill elev at e y o ur sew ing k no w ho w w it h v er sat ile t ec hniq ues and inspir ing sug g est io ns f o r mak ing t hese b ag s y o ur o w n.” Amy But ler , f ab r ic de

sig ner “A must hav e f o r b eg inner s and ex per ienc ed b ag -mak er s alik e.” Anna S t assen, U K H andmade

“Lisa is t he fir st lady o f handmade b ag pat t er ns.”P er r i Lew is, c r af t jo ur nalist and aut ho r “I t is an ex c ellent r eso ur c e f o r all y o ur b ag and pur se mak ing needs.”K at hr een Ric k et so n: w hipup.net and aut ho r

UK £17.99

US $27.99(Can $29.50)

W8876

ISBN-13: 978-1-4463-0185-2

ISBN-10: 1-4463-0185-0

Other titles from Lisa Lam

Lisa Lam is the founder

and owner of u-handbag,

the dedicated

online store

and blog for

bag makers.

A Bag for All Reasons: Make Fabulous Fabric Bags for Every Occasion by Lisa Lam

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