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inspired styles andclassic techniques
for thenew seamstress
Sri Mitnick
sewing handbooksewing handbook
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Table of Contents
the new seamstress6
the sewing experience8
the five fundamentals9
Chapter 1: Getting Started -page10-Tools and Supplies12 | More Tools and Supplies14
Basic Stitches15 | Sewing Lessons18
Chapter 2: a thoughtful plan -page 28-
Inspiration30 | Editing for Your Style32Strategy36 | A Personalized Croquis37
Chapter 3: a precise pattern -page 38-Pattern Language40 | Prepare Your Fabric42
Lay Out Your Pattern44 | Transfer the Markings48Cut Your Fabric50
project: meringue skirt52
Chapter 4: a fantastic fit -page 60 -What is a Good Fit?62 | Ease64 | Darts and Fullness65
How to Fit68 | Step 1: Measure70 | Step 2: Trace72Step 3: Make a Muslin73 | Step 4: Adjust the Muslin74
Step 5: Alter the Pattern77 | Types of Alterations78project: pastille dress90
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Chapter 5: a beautiful fabric -page 102-Choosing Fabric104 | Fabric Basics108
Warp, Weft and Grain110 | Common Fabrics112 | Interfacing115Tread 116 | Needles117
Prints and Pattern118 | ricky Fabrics120project: truffle dress122
Chapter 6: a fine finish -page 134-Seam Finishes136 | Lining143
project: taffy blouse146
Chapter 7: Keep Learning -page 154-Recommended Reading156project: licorice dress158
glossary170
index172
size chart173
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10
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Classic, simple, understatedSparkling, glamorous, feminine
Bright, bold, graphicOrganic, natural, earthy
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2.Draw a match line on the first piece.
Leave the frst piece in place along the old. Using
a rotary ruler and marker, trace rom the match point alo
the line in the abric to the bottom o the pattern piece.
Here, Im tracing along the black line.
3.Repeat for the second piece.Draw a straight line rom the match point to the
bottom o the second pattern piece. The line should be
parallel to the grainline marked on the pattern piece. For
vertical seam (like a side seam), the line would be 90 to t
grainline.
You can see here that i the second pattern piece were cu
on the old, the plaid pattern would not match.
4.Re-position the second pattern piece.
Leaving the frst pattern piece on the old,
reposition the second piece so that its match line alls
along a matching stripe.
At this point, you would cut out the frst piece. You would
then reold the abric so that your second pattern pieceis positioned on the old, with the match line on your
selected stripe, and cut.
Because the pattern is even, it will match at both shoulde
seams when the pieces are unolded and sewn together.
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meringue skirtmeringue skirteringue skirtmeringue skirteringue skirtmeringue skirtProjec
Even with its pretty scalloped hem, this skirt has a simple and straightforward construction,
making it a great choice for practicing working with a pattern. It has a simple darted fit
and sits just slightly below the natural waist. You can use it to experiment with new markingtechniques you may not have tried before, such as tailors tacks, or try out the freezer paper tip
for cutting your pattern pieces. Practice taking your time and cutting carefully around the curves.
Well also create a small paper template to help you mark the scalloped stitching line at the hem.
Once youve finished that lovely hem, youll most certainly see how careful and accurate marking
can make sewing less frustrating.
Well also cover my preferred technique for attaching a facing to a zipper. For this skirt, well
be using an invisible zipper, which is perhaps the easiest zipper to install. For help with putting
the zipper in, review the page 23.
Start by using the steps we covered in this chapter to cut out your pattern and transfer themarkings, then move into the instructions to put your skirt together.
(Te blouse in this photo is the Sencha pattern, published by Colette Patterns.)
Tools
sewing shears (or rotary utter and mat)
pattern weights
pins
hand sewing needle
marking pen or halkFrenh urve ruler
paper (for template)
paper sissors (for template)
invisible zipper presser foot
bamboo point turner/presser (optional)
pinking shears (optional)
Supplies
fabri (see Fabri uggestions andFabri Required table)
lightweight fusible interfaing (seeFabri Required table)
thread
9" (22.9m) invisible zipper
one small hook and eye losure
piee of paper for making a template
skills Checklist
* Preparing your fabri (pp. -)
* Laying out your pattern (pp. -)
* Transferring the markings (pp. -)
* Cutting out your pattern (pp. -)
* Sewing darts (pp. -)* Pressing a seam (p. )
* Sewing an invisible zipper (p)
* Attahing a faing to a zipper (p. )
* Sewing a athstith by hand (p. )
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Trace Onto Sturdier Paper
Make your own personal pattern by tracing the pieces onto
sturdier paper. Label the pieces with the pattern name,
pattern piece indicator (such as letter) and size. Dating the
pieces can be helpful, too.
Step 2: Trace
Most sewing patterns come printed on very thin tissue
paper, which does not always hold up well over time.
Because you are planning to make changes to the pattern
in order to fit it to your body, you risk damaging thepattern even more as you cut and tape pieces together.
I recommend tracing your pattern pieces onto heavier
paper, both to preserve the pattern and to make changes
much easier as you go through your fitting. You can even
make your own notes on the pattern for future sewing.
You can buy rolls of bond paper to keep on hand, which
are available at many art supply or drafting supply stores.
Or you can look for inexpensive rolls of wrapping paper,
which are wide enough to handle the great majorityof sewing patterns. Freezer paper is a great choice as well.
As mentioned in chapter three, it has a light coating
on one side that causes it to adhere to fabric when
ironed, making accurate cutting very easy later on.
Cut out your tissue paper pattern pieces, and make sure
they are wrinkle-free. If they seem a bit crumpled, give
them a light press with a dry iron. Lay the pieces on your
sturdier paper, and trace around all of the cutting lines.
Transfer all of the markings for your chosen size onto
your new pattern.
72
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90
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102
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Texture
Texture on fabric can be bold
or subtle, from a crinkle to a thick
nubby weave to a subtle brushed
softness. Smooth, less textured
fabrics are easy to incorporate
in your sewing, putting the focus
more on the color or print.
Textured:
Crinkled Silk Chifon
Smooth:
Silk Crepe de Chine
Stretch
Stretch can come from knit fabrics,
or fabrics that incorporate elastic.
Knits require special techniques for
sewing. Nonstretch fabrics are the
most common and are suitable for
the majority of projects.
Nonstretchy:
Light Rayon Twill
Stretchy:
Silk Jersey
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Rayon
Rayon is produced rom cellulose,
and while it is neither entirely natur
nor entirely synthetic, it does behav
very much like a natural fber. It ote
appears as a lustrous abric similar
to silk. It is wonderul or keeping co
in hot weather.
Cotton
Cotton is a versatile fber made rom
the cotton plant, and has become t
dominant fber used in clothing todCotton abrics are comortable and
sot, and come in a variety o qualiti
and prices.
Linen
Linen fbers come rom the ax plan
and are extremely strong, durable a
sot. Lining is cool and breathable, b
linen abrics do tend to wrinkle easi
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Flannel
A brushed abric with a sot texture.
Cotton fannel is used in lighter
garments like shirts, and wool fannelin heavier garments like suits and
jackets, though wool fannel can also
be used or heavy shirts.
Fibers used: cotton or wool.
Gabardine
A wonderul abric, usually wool, with
a tight twill weave. Wool gabardine
is a great choice or tailored garments,as its quite resistant to wrinkling.
Fibers used: wool, silk, rayon.
Tweed
A sturdy wool abric, with a great deal
o texture and multiple colors woven
through or a fecked or mottledappearance.
Fibers used: wool.
Dupioni
Dupioni is a sti abric woven rom
irregular threads, creating slubs in the
abric. It is crisp and luminous, but
rays easily.
Fibers used: silk.
Tafeta
A very crisp abric, most oten seen
in party or wedding dresses.
Fibers used: silk, rayon, polyester or
nylon.
Worsted Wool
A sturdy wool suiting abric, which also
makes great skirts.
Fibers used: wool.
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Geometric Paisley
Abstract Novelty print/Conversation print
Animal print Toile
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about the author
Sarai Mitnick is the founder and designer behind
Colette Patterns, a line of classic sewing patterns
known for sweet details and excellent instruction.
With a background in User Experience, Sarai
wanted to create patterns that were a joy to use
and learn from. Along with a small team of tal-ented stitchers and bloggers, she now runs Colette
Patterns from a lovely sunlit studio in Portland,
Oregon. When shes not sewing (or writing about
sewing), Sarai enjoys petting her cats (Basil and
Colette), growing vegetables, drinking cocktails,
traveling, knitting, making good food, reading
and exploring the beautiful city she calls home.
Visit her at www.colettepatterns.com, or at her
personal blog, www.sweetsassafras.org.
Te Colette Sewing HandbookCopyright 2011
by Sarai Mitnick. Manufactured in China. Allrights reserved. Te patterns and drawings in thisbook are for the personal use of the reader. Bypermission of the author and publisher, they maybe either hand-traced or photocopied to make
single copies, but under no circumstances may theybe resold or republished. No part of this book may
be reproduced in any form or by any electronicor mechanical means including information storageand retrieval systems without permission in writing
from the publisher, except by a reviewer who mayquote brief passages in a review. Published byKrause Publications, a division of F+W Media, Inc.,4700 East Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45236.(800) 289-0963. First Edition.
www.fwmedia.com
15 14 13 12 11 5 4 3 2 1
DISRIBUED IN CANADA BY FRASERDIREC100 Armstrong AvenueGeorgetown, ON, Canada L7G 5S4
el: (905) 877-4411
DISRIBUED IN HE U.K. AND EUROPEBY F&W MEDIA INERNAIONALBrunel House, Newton Abbot, Devon, Q12 4PU,
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DISRIBUED IN AUSRALIA BY
CAPRICORN LINKP.O. Box 704, S. Windsor NSW, 2756 Australia
el: (02) 4577-3555
SRN: Y1290
ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-1545-2
Edited by Vanessa Lyman
Designed by Michelle Tompson
of Fold & Gather Design
Production coordinated by Greg Nock
Photography by Lisa Warninger
Photostyling by Chelsea Fuss
Step-by-step photography by Christine Polomsky
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Thoughtful Plan
gure out what youike and how youl wear it the mostessential steps
sewing a garmentyou will love.
A Precise Pattern
Learn to masterthe language of
patterns to help youtell your own story.
A Fantastic Fit
A custom fit is withinyour reach as youlearn how to alterpatterns to flatter
your body.
A Beautiful Fabric
Learn how todetermine which
fabrics work best, andhow to work with
those fabrics.
A Fin
Learn all techniqu
for that p
about the authorSarai Mitnick is the talented seam-stress behind the successful ColettePatterns. Visit ColettePatterns.comfor sewing tips, a fun blog, vintagecouture inspiration and a fantasticforum, as well as news about the
latest sewing patterns available fromColette Patterns!
The Five Fundamentalsfor a Great Sewing Experi
Renowned for her easy-to-use and classic-looking patterns, Sarai Mitnick of Colette Patterns provides y
five gorgeous patterns, and all the sewing knowledge you need to become a modern seamstress.
T he enclosed garment patternsall graded in sizes0 through 18bring the five fundamentals intoplay. You can truly master the art of pairing fabrics with
design by sewing the Truffl e Dress, or you can delight in the
effect of a fine finish with the Taffy Blouse. Choose from
any or all of the five projectsthree dresses, one skirt and
one blousein order to develop your skills, sew a lovely
wardrobe, and enjoy the results!
Includes five complete sewing patterns from Colette Patternsa $90 value!
Learn to sew beautifully by practicing the Five Fundamentals:
ng
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04LUEMMDc0OTYyMDEzMDE59A==
74962 013010 9UPC E
AN
Y1290
52999
ISBN-10: 1-4402-1545-6
ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-1545-2
US $29.99(CAN $31.50)