62 FRANCE BORDEAUX Bordeaux is an area in an almost-perfect viticultural situation on the west coast of France and benefits from the ultimate marketing tool—a château-based classification system that was established 150 years ago. THE NEW MILLENNIUM appears to be just as taxing for Bordeaux’s reputation as the last decade of the 20th century turned out to be. Rain-drenched harvests toward the end of the 1990s challenged Bordeaux’s claim to be the ultimate viticultural paradise, while the depressingly poor quality of its generic wines attracted almost as much bad publicity as the grossly inflated prices of modest vintages from the top châteaux. The weather might have improved in the first few years of the 21st century, but the quality of generic Bordeaux has remained abysmal, prices continue to rise almost in direct relation to the drop in sales—and then the unimaginable happened: the renowned US wine critic Robert Parker failed to appear for the primeur tastings in March 2003. But all is not lost—Christian Delpeuch, the new head of the Conseil Interprofessionel des Vins de Bordeaux (CIVB), has mooted the possibility of declassifying some of the weaker Bordeaux wines into a wider vin de pays, which could then be bolstered by stronger wines from outside the region, but traditional to the southwest, such as the deep, dark Tannat. Delpeuch is the managing director of Ginestet, the region’s biggest trader, and seems to have a good understanding of the more commercial end of Bordeaux’s business. He has suggested the creation of a Vins des Cépages d’Aquitaine category for the Bordeaux region, under which varietal wines could be marketed. Far from detracting from the classic wines of Bordeaux, this would in fact improve their quality through stricter selection. And at the very top end of the market, the bordelais can once again sleep easy in their beds, as Robert Parker returned for the primeur tastings in 2004. OVERVIEW The Bordeaux appellation and the Gironde département are geographically one and the same. Moreover, the Gironde is the largest département in France, and Bordeaux is the largest source of quality wines in the world. There are more than 22,000 vineyard proprietors working in excess of 280,000 acres (120,000 hectares), producing over 71 million cases (6.4 million hectoliters) of Bordeaux wine (85 percent red, 3 percent rosé, and 12 percent white) under 57 different appellations every year. Of these 22,000 properties, no fewer than 10,000 are châteaux and domaines producing wine. Of these 10,000 wine-producing properties, some 6,000 make and market wine under their own name (75 percent of total production), while the remaining 4,000 wine-producing properties are members of 53 cooperative wineries in Bordeaux (representing 25 percent of production, a little of which is sold under the producing property name). THE CH´TEAU SYSTEM AND MERCHANT POWER Prior to the concept of château wine estates, the land was worked on a crop-sharing basis. This feudal system slowly changed from the late 17th century onward. As the Bordelais brokers developed the habit of recording and classifying wines according to their cru, or growth (that is to say their geographical origin), and the prices they fetched, the reputations of individual properties became established. The 19th century saw the rise of the négociant, or merchant, in Bordeaux. Many négociants were of English origin, and some firms were established by Scottish, Irish, Dutch, or German businessmen. The best château wines were not consumed by the French themselves; they were the preserve of other northern European countries. Thus foreign merchants had an obvious advantage over their French counterparts. Yearly, in spring, these négociants took delivery of young wines in cask from the various châteaux and matured them in their cellars prior to shipping. They were, therefore, responsible for their élevage, or upbringing, and came to be known as négociants-éleveurs, eventually becoming the middlemen found in every aspect of wine trading. Many foreign buyers found it more convenient to deal through a négociant than directly with the wine producer, and often they had no alternative, since a number of châteaux were owned by, or were exclusive to, certain négociants. THE MODERN BORDEAUX WINE TRADE It was perhaps inevitable that the historically powerful and family- owned négociant-éleveur firms would eventually become a spent force. They lacked the resources required to finance adequately the huge increase in demand for Bordeaux in the 1960s, and those that did not founder during the oil crisis of the early to mid-1970s fell prey to the economic depressions of the following two decades. As proud old firms were either taken over or went bankrupt, so the power shifted from the négociants to the châteaux, and in order to cope with a boom in world markets, many Bordeaux properties expanded their vineyards or added large, shiny new fermentation facilities. Many of these projects were financed with bank loans when interest rates were low. When sales slumped CH´TEAU PALMER This majestic turreted château is one of the finest in the Médoc. VOLUME VS. REPUTATION Very few Bordeaux wines are produced from great vineyards. As the table below illustrates, the famous appellations represent a relatively small amount of the bordelais vignoble, and the classified growths a minuscule proportion of that. Yet it could be argued that the reputation of Bordeaux has been built upon a fraction of its cru classé or grand cru classé—the best performers. Bordeaux is a great wine region, but not all bordeaux is great wine. DISTRICTS SURFACE AREA Expressed as a percentage of Bordeaux vineyards Bordeaux (red) 36.8 Bordeaux Supérieur (red) 10.0 Médoc (red, non cru classé) 11.0 Médoc (red, cru classé) 2.4 Graves (red) 3.1 Saint-Émilion (red) 4.2 Saint-Émilion (red, grand cru classé) 0.8 Saint-Émilion satellites (red) 2.7 Pomerol (red) 0.7 Lalande de Pomerol (red) 1.0 Fronsac (red) 1.1 Various côtes (red) 14.4 Dry white 8.3 Sweet white 3.4
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62 F R A N C E
BORDEAUXBordeaux is an area in an almost-perfectviticultural situation on the west coast of Franceand benefits from the ultimate marketing tool—achâteau-based classification system that wasestablished 150 years ago.
THE NEW MILLENNIUM appears to be just as taxing for Bordeaux’sreputation as the last decade of the 20th century turned out to be.Rain-drenched harvests toward the end of the 1990s challengedBordeaux’s claim to be the ultimate viticultural paradise, while thedepressingly poor quality of its generic wines attracted almost asmuch bad publicity as the grossly inflated prices of modestvintages from the top châteaux. The weather might haveimproved in the first few years of the 21st century, but the qualityof generic Bordeaux has remained abysmal, prices continue torise almost in direct relation to the drop in sales—and then theunimaginable happened: the renowned US wine critic RobertParker failed to appear for the primeur tastings in March 2003.
But all is not lost—Christian Delpeuch, the new head of theConseil Interprofessionel des Vins de Bordeaux (CIVB), hasmooted the possibility of declassifying some of the weakerBordeaux wines into a wider vin de pays, which could then be bolstered by stronger wines from outside the region, buttraditional to the southwest, such as the deep, dark Tannat.Delpeuch is the managing director of Ginestet, the region’sbiggest trader, and seems to have a good understanding of themore commercial end of Bordeaux’s business. He has suggestedthe creation of a Vins des Cépages d’Aquitaine category for theBordeaux region, under which varietal wines could be marketed.Far from detracting from the classic wines of Bordeaux, thiswould in fact improve their quality through stricter selection. Andat the very top end of the market, the bordelais can once againsleep easy in their beds, as Robert Parker returned for theprimeur tastings in 2004.
OVERVIEWThe Bordeaux appellation and the Gironde département aregeographically one and the same. Moreover, the Gironde is thelargest département in France, and Bordeaux is the largest sourceof quality wines in the world. There are more than 22,000vineyard proprietors working in excess of 280,000 acres (120,000hectares), producing over 71 million cases (6.4 million hectoliters)of Bordeaux wine (85 percent red, 3 percent rosé, and 12 percentwhite) under 57 different appellations every year. Of these 22,000properties, no fewer than 10,000 are châteaux and domainesproducing wine. Of these 10,000 wine-producing properties, some6,000 make and market wine under their own name (75 percentof total production), while the remaining 4,000 wine-producingproperties are members of 53 cooperative wineries in Bordeaux(representing 25 percent of production, a little of which is soldunder the producing property name).
THE CHÂTEAU SYSTEM AND MERCHANT POWERPrior to the concept of château wine estates, the land was workedon a crop-sharing basis. This feudal system slowly changed from thelate 17th century onward. As the Bordelais brokers developed thehabit of recording and classifying wines according to their cru, orgrowth (that is to say their geographical origin), and the prices theyfetched, the reputations of individual properties became established.
The 19th century saw the rise of the négociant, or merchant, inBordeaux. Many négociants were of English origin, and some
firms were established by Scottish, Irish, Dutch, or Germanbusinessmen. The best châteauwines were not consumed by the French themselves; they werethe preserve of other northernEuropean countries. Thus foreignmerchants had an obviousadvantage over their Frenchcounterparts. Yearly, in spring,these négociants took delivery of young wines in cask from thevarious châteaux and maturedthem in their cellars prior toshipping. They were, therefore, responsible for their élevage, or upbringing, and came to be known as négociants-éleveurs,eventually becoming the middlemen found in every aspect ofwine trading. Many foreign buyers found it more convenient todeal through a négociant than directly with the wine producer,and often they had no alternative, since a number of châteauxwere owned by, or were exclusive to, certain négociants.
THE MODERN BORDEAUX WINE TRADEIt was perhaps inevitable that the historically powerful and family-owned négociant-éleveur firms would eventually become a spentforce. They lacked the resources required to finance adequatelythe huge increase in demand for Bordeaux in the 1960s, andthose that did not founder during the oil crisis of the early to mid-1970s fell prey to the economic depressions of the followingtwo decades.
As proud old firms were either taken over or went bankrupt, so the power shifted from the négociants to the châteaux, and inorder to cope with a boom in world markets, many Bordeauxproperties expanded their vineyards or added large, shiny newfermentation facilities. Many of these projects were financed withbank loans when interest rates were low. When sales slumped
CHÂTEAU PALMER
This majestic turreted château isone of the finest in the Médoc.
VOLUME VS. REPUTATION
Very few Bordeaux wines are produced from great vineyards. As the table below illustrates, the famous appellations represent a relatively smallamount of the bordelais vignoble, and the classified growths a minusculeproportion of that. Yet it could be argued that the reputation of Bordeauxhas been built upon a fraction of its cru classé or grand cru classé—the best performers. Bordeaux is a great wine region, but not all bordeaux is great wine.
DISTRICTS SURFACE AREAExpressed as a percentage of
Bordeaux vineyards
Bordeaux (red) 36.8
Bordeaux Supérieur (red) 10.0
Médoc (red, non cru classé) 11.0
Médoc (red, cru classé) 2.4
Graves (red) 3.1
Saint-Émilion (red) 4.2
Saint-Émilion (red, grand cru classé) 0.8
Saint-Émilion satellites (red) 2.7
Pomerol (red) 0.7
Lalande de Pomerol (red) 1.0
Fronsac (red) 1.1
Various côtes (red) 14.4
Dry white 8.3
Sweet white 3.4
GI
RO
N
D
E
le Barp
Marcheprime
Mios
LugosSanguinet
Hostens
Saucats
Landiras
Villagrains
Belhade
Sore
Luxey
St-Magne
Villandraut
Préchac
Bazas
Captieux
Grignols
Sauternes
CadillacLoupiac
Ste-Croix-du-Mont
St-Macaire
St-Symphorien
Cestas
Saumos
Lacanau
Carcans
Hourtin
le Contaut
Lesparre-Médoc
St-Christoly-Médoc
St-Seurin-de-Cadourne
St-Estèphe
Etauliers
Saugon
Reignac
Berson
Pugnac
Cavignac
Guîtres
Galgon
Castillon-la- Bataillé
Villefranche-de-Lonchat
St-Seurin-sur-l'Isle
St-Denis-de-Pile
la Roche-Chalais
les-Eglisottes-et-Chalaurès
St-Emilion
PomerolFronsac
Cézac
St-Savin
St-Ciers-sur-Gironde
Vendays-Montalivet
Talais
le Verdon- sur-Mer
St-Vivien-de-Médoc
Montalivet-les-Bains
Brach
Listrac-Médoc
Cussac-Fort-Médoc
St-Julien-Beychevelle
St-Laurent-Médoc
Moulis-en-Médoc Margaux
Macau
Blanquefort
AmbèsCastelnau- de-Médoc
le Porge le Temple
Ste-Hélène
Martignas-sur-Jalle
St-Jean-d'Illac
Leognan
Ste-Foy-la-Grande
Duras
Monsegur
Pujols
Pellegrue
Rauzan
Sauveterre-de-Guyenne
Ste-Bazeille
TargonCambes
Cérons
Barsac
Preignac
Castres-Gironde
Pedonsac
Langoiran
Créon
Fargues-St-Hilaire
Daignac
Branne
St-LoubèsVayres
Arveyres
Lège
Mirambeau
ARÈS
ARCACHON GUJAN-MESTRAS
CAPFERRET
CAZAUX
LATESTE
LE TEICH
BIGANOS
AUDENGE
ANDERNOS-LES-BAINS
SALLES
BELIN-BÉLIET
CASTELJALOUX
LANGON
LA RÉOLE
AMBARÈS-ET-LAGRAVE
ST-ANDRÉ-DE-CUBZAC
BLAYE
COUTRAS
ST-MÉDARD-EN-JALLES
LIBOURNE
BOURG
MONTENDRE
SOULAC-SUR-MER
Bordeaux
D655
A62D932
D932
N113A62
D10
D10
A630 N89
D671
D670
D670
D936
N113
N113
D67
2
D670
D936
N89
D67
4D910
A89
D730
D730
N137
N137
D670
D1
N125
D106
N250
A63
D213
N10
N10
N134
A63
D3
D3
A66
D10
6
D93
7
N10
A10
D3
D6
52
2
27
23
40
61
60
34
1616
72
60
119
107
76
47
106
60
En
gra
nn
e
Dordogne
l'Isle
Isle
Dro
nne
Larit
Dropt
Livenne
Jalledu Breu
ilLac d'HourtinCarcans
Lac deLacanau
Gironde
Ch
ena
ld
uG
uâ
Can
al d
eLè
ge
Bassind'Arcahon
Etang de Cazauxet de Sanguinet
Eyre
Hure
Ci r
on
Ciron
Ga
ro nn
e
Pointe de Grave
BORDEAUX , see also p55
Sandwiched between the brandyregions of Cognac to the northand Armagnac to the south, theGironde département, whichconstitutes the AOC area ofBordeaux, consists of the formerprovince of Guyenne and a partof Gascony called Bazedais.
MédocSee also pp71, 81, 85, 89, 92GravesSee also p97Pessac-LéognanSee also p97CéronsSee also p97BarsacSee also p97SauternesSee also p97BlayeSee also p126BourgSee also p126
The Libournais DistrictSee also pp108, 111, 120St-ÉmilionSee also p111PomerolSee also p120Entre-Deux-MersSee also p130
Height above sea level (metres)
Département boundary
Delimited AOC region of Bordeaux
25 km5 10 15 200
15 miles1050
B O R D E A U X 63
PARIS
64 F R A N C E
THE 1855 CLASSIFICATION OF THE WHITE WINES OF THE GIRONDE
THE MERLOT GRAPE VARIETY
Almost twice as much Merlot as Cabernet Sauvignon grows in Bordeaux.
PREMIER CRU SUPÉRIEUR(Superior First Growth)
Yquem, Sauternes
PREMIER CRUS(First Growths)
Latour Blanche, Bommes (now Château La Tour Blanche)Peyraguey, Bommes (now twoproperties: Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey and Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey)Vigneau, Bommes (now ChâteauRayne-Vigneau)Suduiraut, PreignacCoutet, BarsacClimens, BarsacBayle, Sauternes (now ChâteauGuiraud)Rieusec, Sauternes (now ChâteauRieussec, Fargues)Rabeaud, Bomme (now twoproperties: Château Rabaud-Promis and Château Sigalas-Rabaud)
DEUXIÈME CRUS(Second Growths)
Mìrat, Barsac (now ChâteauMyrat)Doisy, Barsac (now threeproperties: Château Doisy-Daëne,Château Doisy-Dubroca, andChâteau Doisy-Védrines)Pexoto, Bommes (now part ofChâteau Rabaud-Promis)D’arche, Sauternes (now Châteaud’Arche)Filhot, SauternesBroustet Nérac, Barsac (now twoproperties: Château Broustet andChâteau Nairac)Caillou, BarsacSuau, BarsacMalle, Preignac (now Château deMalle)Romer, Preignac (now twoproperties: Château Romer andChâteau Romer-du-Hayot,Fargues)Lamothe, Sauternes (now twoproperties: Château Lamothe andChâteau Lamothe-Guignard)
and interest rates shot up, the repayments became unbearable.Consequently, aside from a few entrepreneurial owners, powerthen shifted from châteaux to investors—not only banks butinsurance groups, pension funds, and the like.
In today’s market, therefore, the négoce has much less influencethan before, with its élevage role primarily restricted to brandedwines. The élevage of fine cru classé wine is either handled by the individual château itself or dispensed with by selling winesridiculously young through French supermarkets or through theworldwide en primeur trade (see p66). Additionally, a number ofchâteau owners have carved out little empires, collecting estatesor developing their own négociant businesses.
THE CLASSIFICATION OF BORDEAUX WINESOf all the Bordeaux classifications that exist, it is the 1855Classification that is meant whenever anyone refers to “TheClassification.” It was commissioned by the Bordeaux Chamber ofCommerce, which was required by the government of the SecondEmpire to present a selection of its wines at the 1855 ExpositionUniverselle in Paris. For their own ends, the brokers of theBordeaux Stock Exchange traditionally categorized the mostfamous Bordeaux properties on the basis of the prices theyfetched, so they were charged by the Chamber of Commerce tosubmit a “complete list of classified red Bordeaux wines, as wellas our great white wines.” The classifications listed above and tothe right give the 19th-century names in the original form as listedby the brokers on April 18, 1855. The frequent absence of the wordchâteau has been followed, as has the circumflex in crû, and theuse of second crû for red wines and deuxième crû for whites.
THE CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETIES OF BORDEAUXContrary to what one might expect, it is Merlot, not CabernetSauvignon, that is the most important grape variety in Bordeaux.Cabernet Sauvignon represents only 27 percent of black grapescultivated in Bordeaux, whereas Merlot accounts for more than 58 percent. It is nearer the truth, therefore, to say that CabernetSauvignon gives backbone to Merlot, rather than to suggest thatMerlot softens Cabernet Sauvignon (which is the old adage).Although Château Mouton-Rothschild contains no less than 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, it is an exception, as even on theMédoc’s hallowed ground, where it is blasphemy to mention thename of Merlot, 40 percent of the vines grown are of that variety.Château Pétrus (see p123), one of the most expensive wines in
the world, contains 95 percent Merlot, without any CabernetSauvignon at all. Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic grape, quitepossibly the greatest red-wine grape in the world, but itsimportance for Bordeaux is often overstated.
Sémillon is the most important white grape variety grown inBordeaux. It is significant both in terms of its extent of cultivationand quality. This grape variety is susceptible to botrytis, the“noble rot” that results in classic Sauternes and Barsac. It istherefore considered to be the world’s greatest sweet-wine grape. Sémillon also accounts for most of the fine dry white wines of Bordeaux, but these are relatively few and lack prestige.Sauvignon Blanc plays the supporting role in the production ofsweet wines, and is used to a greater or lesser degree for drywines. Many of the less expensive dry white wines are pureSauvignon Blanc varietals.
VARIETAL CONTRIBUTIONS TO A CUVÉEThe Cabernet Sauvignon is the most complex and distinctive of all black Bordeaux grapes. It has a firm tannic structure, yet withtime reveals a powerful, rich, and long-lasting flavor. Wines fromthis grape can have great finesse; their bouquets often possess a“blackcurrant” or “violets” character. Cabernet Franc has similarcharacteristics to Cabernet Sauvignon, but may also have a leafy,sappy, or earthy taste, depending on where it is cultivated. Itdoes, however, shine through as the superior variety when grownin St.-Émilion and Pomerol, and can compete on even terms withits more famous cousin in parts of Graves. Merlot is soft, silky,and sometimes opulent. It is a grape that charms and can makewines with lots of juicy-rich and spicy fruit. Petit Verdot is a late-ripener with a naturally high acidity, while Malbec has a thick skinthat is rich in color pigments. Small amounts of Petit Verdot andMalbec were traditionally used to correct the color and acidity of ablended wine. The cultivation and use of these two varieties forthis purpose has been on the decline for the last 20 years owing to the various modern techniques of viticulture and vinification.
The white Sémillon grape provides a wine naturally rich inflavor and high in alcohol. It makes succulent, sweet white winesthat are capable of great longevity. Its intrinsically low acidity
65B O R D E A U X
THE VINIF ICATION PROCESS
The proportion of grape varieties grown and the intrinsic potential of achâteau’s terroir determine the basic quality and character of Bordeaux’s finestwines. Manipulating the vinification process has, however, always been themethod of honing the style of this region’s best châteaux. Processes includeadding up to 15 percent vin de presse; grape-skin contact (which can be for upto a month); maturation, which used to take 3 to 5 years, but now takes 15 to18 months; and a percentage of new oak, always the hallmark of Bordeaux’spremiers crus.
THE 1855 CLASSIFICATION OF THE RED WINES OF THE GIRONDE
PREMIERS CRUS(First Growths)
Château Lafite, Pauillac (now Château Lafite-Rothschild)Château Margaux, MargauxChâteau Latour, PauillacHaut-Brion, Pessac (Graves)
SECONDS CRUS(Second Growths)
Mouton, Pauillac (now ChâteauMouton-Rothschild and a FirstGrowth since 1973)Rauzan-Ségla, MargauxRauzan-Gassies, MargauxLéoville, St.-Julien (now threeproperties: Châteaux Léoville-Las-Cases, Léoville-Poyferré, andLéoville-Barton)Vivens Durfort, Margaux (now Château Durfort-Vivens)Gruau-Laroze, St.-Julien (now Château Gruaud-Larose)Lascombe, Margaux (now Château Lascombes)Brane, Cantenac (now ChâteauBrane-Cantenac)Pichon Longueville, Pauillac (now two properties: ChâteauPichon-Longueville-Baron andChâteau Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse-de-Lalande)Ducru Beau Caillou, St.-Julien (now Château Ducru-Beaucaillou)Cos Destournel, St.-Estèphe (now Château Cos d’Estournel)Montrose, St.-Estèphe
TROISIÈMES CRUS(Third Growths)
Kirwan, CantenacChâteau d’Issan, CantenacLagrange, St.-JulienLangoa, St.-Julien (now ChâteauLangoa-Barton)Giscours, LabardeSt.-Exupéry, Margaux (now ChâteauMalescot-St.-Exupéry)Boyd, Cantenac (now twoproperties: Châteaux Boyd-Cantenac and Château CantenacBrown)Palmer, CantenacLalagune, Ludon (now Château La Lagune)Desmirail, MargauxDubignon, Margaux (no longer inexistence, but some of theseoriginal vineyards now belong toChâteaux Malescot-St.-Exupéry,Château Palmer, and ChâteauMargaux)Calon, St.-Estèphe (now Château
St.-Pierre, St.-Julien (now ChâteauSt.-Pierre-Sevaistre)Talbot, St.-JulienDu-Luc, St.-Julien (now ChâteauBranaire-Ducru)Duhart, Pauillac (at one timeChâteau Duhart-Milon Rothschild,but now Château Duhart-Milon,although still Rothschild-owned)Pouget-Lassale, Cantenac (now Château Pouget)Pouget, Cantenac (now ChâteauPouget)Carnet, St.-Laurent (now ChâteauLa Tour-Carnet)Rochet, St.-Estèphe (now ChâteauLafon-Rochet)Château de Beychevele, St.-Julien (now Château Beychevelle)Le Prieuré, Cantenac (now Château Prieuré-Lichine)Marquis de Thermes, Margaux (now Château Marquis-de-Terme)
makes it less suitable for producing dry wines, but in exceptionalcircumstances the highest quality Sémillon does make a fine drywhite wine—if matured in new oak. This enhances the aromaticcharacter of the wine and gives it a firm structure without which itwould be too “fat” and “flabby.”
The Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux is soft, delicate, and easy todrink. It does not have the same bite as it does in the Loirevineyards of Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, but the varietal character ismore pronounced today, with a crisper, fresher style, than it was a
few years ago. Early harvesting, prefermentation maceration onthe grape skins to draw out the aromatics, and longer, coolerfermentation in stainless steel, have all combined to produce a farmore interesting, medium-quality, dry white wine.
FERMENTATION AND MATURATIONAlthough some properties producing crus classés retain theirwooden vats for the fermentation process (more because theylack the funds to reequip than for any idealistic reasons), hardlyany of them actually invest in new oak vats, preferring thosemade of stainless steel. The one startling exception is ChâteauMargaux. This great property has spent more money, followingthe advice of the legendary oenologist Professor Peynaud, thanany other château in Bordeaux. This is puzzling because it wasprincipally at his recommendation that virtually everyone else inBordeaux invested in stainless steel.
ADDING VIN DE PRESSEOne technique that is more characteristic of red winemaking inBordeaux than in any other region is the addition of a certainamount of vin de presse. This is produced after the wine hascompleted its alcoholic fermentation and has undergonemalolactic conversion. The wine is drawn off its lees into casksand the residue of skin and pips at the bottom of the vat ispressed. Normally this requires two pressings: the first vin depresse is the best and represents about 10 percent of the totalwine produced, the second provides a further 5 percent. Vin depresse is relatively low in alcohol, very dark, and extremely tannic.In a wine made for early drinking, vin de presse would be harshand unpleasant, but with the structure of a classic oak-maturedBordeaux, it gives extra body and increases longevity.
66 F R A N C E
BARRELS IN A BORDEAUX CHAI
These new oak barriques at Château Langoa-Barton contain the wines of Château Léoville-Barton (Léoville-Barton has no chai of its own). Bothproperties belong to the Barton family (who are of British descent).
BUYING EN PRIMEUR
WHAT IS BUYING EN PRIMEUR?This is a method of investing in Bordeaux winesby buying the wine before it is bottled. It is nolonger something I subscribe to. Every château inBordeaux attempts to presell a certain amount ofits wine production in the first year of the wine’slife, although it will not be bottled and shippeduntil it is three or, perhaps, four years old.
APPROXIMATED BLENDSThe wines tasted by the trade and upon which enprimeur offers are based will be approximatedblends, which is to say that they will consist ofseveral different casks in roughly the proportion ofgrape variety that will make up the final grandvin. Yet no matter how honest and accurate thewinemaker tries to be, this can never be a truerepresentation of the final wine. Winemakers donot know what the final proportions of grapevarieties will be. Much depends on whether every
barrel matures as expected, and how strict theselection is when it comes to rejecting wines notfit for making grand vin.
WINE SALES BY MAIL ORDERThe first sales usually go on sale in the springafter the vintage, shortly after merchants from allover the world have spent a hectic week tastinghundreds of wines barely six months old. Casksamples (wine bottled from the cask) of the bestwines are taken back to their home markets fortasting by the trade and key private buyers. Thiscan be as early as March, although June is themost popular month and it is at around then thatmail-order offers go out with vivid descriptions ofthe wines and how they are likely to mature.
WHY BUY EN PRIMEUR?It is only worth buying a wine that you cannottouch for three or four years (and probably
should not drink for at least another three or four years after that), if you know it will beunavailable by any other means or, when it does become available, that it is likely to costsignificantly more at that time.
WHICH WINES SHOULD YOU BUY?Wine lovers are better advised to take up offers tobuy en primeur wines such as Cornas from theRhône, which never seem to be available when itis ready to drink. As far as investments areconcerned, there is only one piece of advice I can give, and that is to stick to “blue-chip”wines in top vintages. It does not matter whethercask samples of Latour, Mouton, Pétrus, Yquem,and so on bear any resemblance to the finalbottled product, they will always be a goodinvestment, and from a wine drinker’s point of view, there is no point in gambling on anyother Bordeaux en primeur.
OAK CASK MATURATIONAfter fermentation and prior to bottling, all the best red Bordeauxare matured in 59-gallon (225-liter) Bordeaux oak casks calledbarriques. The duration of this operation and the percentage ofnew oak casks used should depend entirely on the quality andstructure of the wine, and this will vary according to the vintage.The bigger the wine, the more new oak it can take and the longermaturation it will need. The greatest wines—all the premierscrus—require at least 18 to 24 months in 100 percent new oak toreach maturity. Other fine-quality Bordeaux wines do not need somuch time, perhaps only 12 to 18 months, and do not benefitfrom 100 percent new oak; between 30 and 50 percent may beenough. If you get the chance, put your nose into a new oak caskbefore it has been used. The wonderful creamy-smoky, vanilla-and-charcoal aroma is the very essence of what should comethrough when a fine wine has been properly matured in oak.
PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTUREDuring the early 1980s, the idea of “second wines”—always afactor in the production of the finest Bordeaux growths—began tocatch on among the properties producing crus bourgeois, enabling
modest properties to make much better wines through stricterselection of their grands vins. Toward the end of the 1980s,“green harvesting,” or crop-thinning, became de rigueur for allquality-conscious châteaux (even though the Romans consideredsuch practices essential 2,000 years ago!).
However, the most significant advance in Bordeaux over thelast 20 years came in 1994, when a decision was made to harvestgrapes according to tannin ripeness, rather than sugar-acidityripeness. Unripe tannins are not hydrolyzed; they are hard andwill never soften, whereas ripe tannins are hydrolyzed, have acertain suppleness from day one, and will always soften. Thisphenomenon has long been known, but precisely when it occurscan vary from region to region, and year to year. In Bordeauxtannin ripeness has been under study since 1986 by VincentDupuch, who discovered that grapes deemed physiologically ripein Bordeaux by their sugar-acidity ratio actually possessed a highproportion of unripe tannins.
In 1994, many bordelais harvested according to Dupuch’s tanninripeness parameters and were surprised to discover the optimummoment to pick was in fact much later than they had previouslythought. This means not only that many Bordeaux wines will beriper, but also that by determining ripeness in this way, thewinemaker is aware of the precise phenolic content, and thisallows the fine-tuning of maceration and fermentation for eachbatch of grapes.
The 21st century will see a continuation in the rise of super-premium boutique wines, particularly from St.-Émilion. However,the increase in the density of vines to raise general standards inseveral Bordeaux appellations has been delayed. According todecrees issued in 1994, these new standards were to be fast-tracked, but this was fudged by new decrees in 1998, which letsome areas off the hook, making higher-density planting notlegally enforceable until 2025.
Meanwhile, the volume of dry white Bordeaux has dropped,leaving fewer producers making superior wines. Once the poorestcousin in Bordeaux, dry whites are better today than they haveever been. This applies across the board, from the lowliest Entre-Deux-Mers to the finest classified growth, even to the point wherethe 1993 Château Couhins-Lurton became the first Bordeaux cruclassé to be sealed with a screwcap.
In a move to inform the public, and increase the region’s profileamong consumers of wines that do not include the Bordeauxname in the appellation (from Bourg to Blaye, and Fronsac toPauillac, et. al.), all wines must include “Vin de Bordeaux” or“Grand Vin de Bordeaux” on the label.
67B O R D E A U X
RECENT BORDEAUX VINTAGES
2003 Unlike in the rest of France, this was nota drought year. In fact, precipitation levelswere slightly above average. However, as inother French wine regions, 2003 was a veryhot and sunny vintage, with exceptionalripeness. Exceptionally, acidification waspermitted, but although initial concerns aboutlow acid musts were widespread, relatively fewproducers bothered to add acid. This is a great Bordeaux vintage, with good to superb wines produced throughout the region,but favoring the Right Bank and improving thefurther north the vineyards are in the classiccommunal appellations of the Médoc. Themost concentrated wines will be quite exoticand flamboyant. Great Sauternes were alsoproduced.
2002 Hyped-up immediately after the vintage,when the wines were tasted the followingspring, this vintage turned out to be far morevariable than anyone had imagined. Essentially,it is a Cabernet year, not Merlot, thus somevery high-quality Médocs were produced,
particularly in, but not restricted to, Pauillac.The further up the cru classé scale you go, thebetter the wines are, with Lafite a match forthe greatest wines of any Bordeaux vintage.Excellent for Sauternes too.
2001 But for the outstanding 2000 vintage,everyone would have been hyping that of2001 as one of Bordeaux’s finest vintagesacross the board. Homogeneity (relevant to theintrinsic quality of the château, of course) isalmost as widespread as in 2000, but thequality, although excellent, is not as great asthat special year, while the style is moreelegant, less concentrated. Another superbSauternes vintage, and some of the best drywhite cru classé wines produced in 10 years.
2000 God forgave the bordelais theirtransgressions and excesses of the recent past,and smiled on the world’s foremost red wineregion for the last vintage of the oldmillennium. He held back the rains untilalmost everyone had brought their harvest in.
The reds on both banks are beautifullycolored, high in alcohol, with the weight andplumpness of a truly great year. This is a veryspecial vintage indeed, producing wines ofextraordinary concentration, except inSauternes and Barsac, which were hit by rainduring their late harvests—the results are notthat bad, with quality equaling that of 1999.
1999 This is the year when almost everythingthat could go wrong did go wrong inBordeaux. It was as if the last vintage of the1990s was a testament to the climaticdifficulties that masked this decade, withdisease in the vineyards, rain at harvest, and ahuge crop of unripe grapes. Very patchy, butmost of the best wines were made in St.-Émilion, with some excellent Margaux and St.-Julien, and some Sauternes that can vie withthe 1998s, though not the 1997s. It is invintages such as 1999 that the difference inquality between Bordeaux as a whole and thatfound when tasting at the top 100 or soBordeaux estates becomes so marked.
BORDEAUX�S BEST GENERIC BRANDS
Bordeaux has the greatest reputation for red winein the world, but as in all regions, ordinary winesdo exist. In fact, the majority of wines producedin any region is very ordinary, and Bordeaux isno exception. Remember that more than moneyseparates Mouton Cadet from Château Mouton-Rothschild. While the former might be the mostfamous of all generic Bordeaux brands, it ismerely the blended product of relatively inferiorwines grown anywhere within the vastdépartemental appellation of Bordeaux, while thelatter is a selection of one of the finest winesgrown on a single estate—a premier cru classé inthe small, communal AOC of Pauillac.
As a branded generic Bordeaux wine can be adisappointing introduction to the world’s greatestwine region, the following brands are suggestedas reliable choices:
DOURTHE NUMÉRO 1Probably the best, largest-selling brandedBordeaux available.
LA COUR PAVILLONOne of the most reliable and underrated genericBordeaux wines on the market at the moment.Made at Château Loudenne, this wine alwaysdisplays good fruit, but possesses enoughstructure to keep for a while.
MAÎTRE D’ESTOURNELThis has the same connection to Château Cosd’Estournel as “Mouton Cadet” has to ChâteauMouton-Rothschild, which is absolutelynonexistent as far as the wine is concerned, butboth brands hope to sell on the back of theirrespective château name. There is however, afundamental difference between the two, ofcourse: “Maître d’Estournel” happens to be anexpressive, early-drinking wine that can also takea few years in bottle, whereas “Mouton Cadet” ismutton posing as lamb.
MICHEL LYNCH Produced by Michel Cazes of Château Lynch-Bages in an unashamedly up-front, fruity style.Red, white, and rosé are all thoroughlyrecommended.
PREMIUS EXIGENCE Produced by Yvon Mau, the step up between thepremium Premius and Premius Exigence is aboutas big as it can get for two wines sharing thesame brand. The stricter selection of grapes andno-expense-spared handling shows through in thericher, oak-layered fruit.
SICHEL SIRIUSThis is as serious as it sounds. An excellent oak-aged generic Bordeaux, it will improve for afurther year or two in bottle.
There are more than 50 appellations inBordeaux and every one has its generic wines,produced by a négociant or local coopérative.
BORDEAUX AOCAs with any large, and thus variable,appellation, the generic Bordeaux AOC isresponsible for the good, bad, and ugly winesof the region. Overall, quality is of a decentstandard, although the best wines are unlikelyto fit the classic descriptions that have made theregion famous. Wines carrying the genericappellation may come from any AOC vineyardin the entire Gironde. Some of the mostinteresting wines are from classic areas wherethe more specific appellation is confined to aprecise style: such as a red Bordeaux producedby a château in Sauternes. If the wine is abrand, it should be ready to drink. If it is achâteau wine, the address should reveal itsorigin, and the price will be an indication of itsquality and a guide to when it should be drunk.
RED Most are simply dry, luncheon claretstyles, made for early drinking and usuallysoftened by a high Merlot content.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k1–5 years
WHITE All medium-dry, basic white bordeauxcontain at least 4 grams of residual sugar perliter, and have a certain sweetness. It is by farthe most variable appellation category, withmany dull wines. If the wine contains less than4 grams of residual sugar per liter, the Bordeauxappellation must be qualified by “Sec.” Thesedry whites are also variable, but most of thebest wines of the appellation are found amongthem. They may be sold from December 1without any mention of primeur or nouveau.
gSémillon, Sauvignon, Muscadelle plus up to30% in total of Merlot Blanc, Colombard,Mauzac, Ondenc, Ugni Blanc
k1–2 years
ROSÉ When made by individual properties, thismedium-dry, medium-bodied wine can beattractive. These wines may be sold fromDecember 1 following the harvest without anymention of primeur or nouveau.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
kImmediately
BORDEAUX CLAIRET AOC“Clairet” is a term that refers to a red wine thatis light in body and color. It derives from vinclaret in Old French, a term of respect; thissuggests that Bordeaux achieved a reputationfor limpidity before other wines.
ROSÉ Rich, dark rosé or failed, feeble red? Thebest examples of this medium-dry, medium-bodied wine come from the village of Quinsacin the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k1–2 years
BORDEAUX ROSÉ AOCThe theory is that this appellation is reservedfor wine deliberately produced as rosé, while“Bordeaux Clairet” is for a light-colored redwine. Both may simply be labeled “BordeauxAOC.” For technical details see Bordeaux AOC.
BORDEAUX SEC AOCWhite bordeaux with less than 4 grams ofresidual sugar per liter (see Bordeaux AOC).
BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR AOCTechnically superior to Bordeaux AOC by onlyhalf a degree of alcohol, yet most of thesewines do seem to have a greater consistency ofquality, and, therefore, value. All generics arevariable, but this one is less so than most.
RED These dry, light-bodied or medium- to full-bodied wines vary a lot but are generally fullerand richer than most red wines using the basicBordeaux appellation.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k2–6 years
WHITE Dry or sometimes sweet, light- tomedium-bodied white wines that are little seen.
gSémillon, Sauvignon, Muscadelle plus up to30% in total Merlot Blanc, Colombard,Mauzac, Ondenc, Ugni Blanc; the proportionof Merlot Blanc must not exceed 15%
k1–2 years
BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEURCLAIRET AOC
This is a little-seen appellation: the wines aresold either as “Bordeaux Supérieur” or“Bordeaux Clairet.”
ROSÉ Medium-dry and medium-bodied asBordeaux Clairet, but with an extra half degreeof alcohol.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k1–2 years
BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR ROSÉ AOC
This appellation has a small cast—and ChâteauLascombe’s Rosé de Lascombes still tops the bill.
ROSÉ As few examples of these medium-dry,medium-bodied wines exist, it is possible togeneralize and describe them as fuller, richer,and having more class than any Bordeaux RoséAOC wines.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k1–2 years
CRÉMANT DE BORDEAUX AOC
This was introduced in 1990 to replace the oldBordeaux Mousseux AOC (which was phasedout on December 31, 1995). Althoughpreferable to a lot of poorly produced Loiresparkling wines, there is nothing special aboutBordeaux bubbly. Changing the appellation hasdone nothing to change the product because,like its predecessor, Crémant de Bordeaux ismerely a modest and inoffensive fizz. It lacksthe spirit and expressiveness to stand out fromthe sea of far cheaper, but equally boring,sparkling wines that exist almost everywhere. Ihave tasted much better from areas far lesssuited to sparkling wine than Bordeaux.
SPARKLING WHITE Varies from dry to sweetand light- to medium-bodied, but is almostalways bland.
SPARKLING ROSÉ The authorities should havetaken advantage of the introduction of a newappellation to allow the inclusion of whitegrapes for this style, as this would potentiallyhave improved the quality.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k2–3 years
THE APPELLATIONS OF GENERIC
BORDEAUX
Although many of the following properties are located within more specificappellations, at least a certainportion of their wine productionis sold as either Bordeaux orBordeaux Supérieur, and it is those particular wines that have been recommended by theauthor in this section.
BORDEAUX
CHÂTEAU BALLUE-MONDONGensac
Soft and fruity “organic” claret.
CHÂTEAU DE BERTINTargon
Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated wines that age gracefully.
CHÂTEAU BERTINERIECavignac
A serious rosé, pleasantly romantic,with delicately rich, floral fruit onthe palate and a smooth finish.
CHÂTEAU BONHOSTESt.-Jean-de-Blaignac
bV
Classic white bordeaux at its best.
DOMAINE DU BRUSt.-Avit-St.-Nazaire
Refreshing clairet: light in color andbody and easy to drink.
CHÂTEAU CARSINRions
Popular in the UK, New Worldinfluenced.
THE WINE PRODUCERS OF
BORDEAUX AND BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR
68 F R A N C E
69B O R D E A U X
CHÂTEAU COURTEYSt.-MacairebV
These are intensely flavored old-style wines, possessing quite aremarkable bouquet.
CHÂTEAU FAUGASCadillac
Well-balanced reds with attractiveberry-fruit flavors.
CHÂTEAU DU GRAND MOUEYS
Capian
Consistently elegant red wines.
CHÂTEAU GRAND VILLAGE
Mouillac
Rich and easy Merlot-dominated,oak-aged red, and a good secondwine under the “Beau Village” label.
CHÂTEAU DE HAUXHaux
Gorgeously ripe and dry white wine,with very fresh and elegant fruit.
CHÂTEAU LAGROSSETabanacbV
Elegant, ripe, and long, withlemony-rich, oaky fruit.
Romantic 15th-century châteaumaking attractive, firm, and fleshyred that can show some finesse.
CHÂTEAU MARJOSSEBrannebV
This is Pierre Lurton’s home, wherehe makes lush and up-front redswith creamy-silky fruit and abeautiful dry white.
CHÂTEAU MORILLONMonségurbV
Rich, fat, and juicy wines.
CLOS DE PELIGONSt-Loubès
Fine, full-bodied red with a hint of oak.
CHÂTEAU PLAISANCECapian
This château makes excellent,lightly rich Bordeaux Blanc Sec,made from 50-year-old vines andfermented in oak.
CHÂTEAU DE PLASSANTabanacbV
The basic Bordeaux Blanc Sec has
fresh, severe Sauvignon fruit, while the more expensive Bordeaux Blanc Sec, which isfermented and aged in oak, haslovely creamy fruit and a fine,lemony-vanilla finish.
CHÂTEAU POUCHAUD-LARQUEY
La Réole
Full and rich red with lots of fruit.
CAVE DE QUINSACLa Tresne
Delicately colored, light-bodied,rosé-style wines sold as clairet.
CHÂTEAU RENONLangoiranbV
This is a pleasantly fresh and floralSauvignon-style wine.
CHÂTEAU REYNONCadillacbV
This is a star-performing châteauthat produces cru classé dry whitewine under the auspices of DenisDubourdieu. The elite VieillesVignes cuvée is quite extraordinary,but everything produced here canbe relied upon, right down to theaptly named “Le Second deReynon.” Also very good red.
CHÂTEAU ROC-DE-CAYLA
Targon
Easy-drinking, well-balanced redswith good fruit and some finesse.
LE ROSÉ DE CLARKECastelnau-de-Médoc
From Château Clarke, this has allthe fragrance expected from aclassic dry rosé.
CHÂTEAU THIEULEYCréonbV
These are medium-bodied, elegantreds that possess more than just ahint of cask-aging. Also fine, fresh,floral, and fruity white wines.
CHÂTEAU TIMBERLAYSt.-André-de-Cubzac
bV
Deep-colored, full of flavor, but notwithout a certain elegance.
BORDEAUXSUPÉRIEUR
CHÂTEAU DES ARRASSt.-André-de-Cubzac
bV
Deep-colored wines with goodstructure and lots of chunky fruit.
CHÂTEAU LA COMBE-CADIOT
BlanquefortbV
These well-colored wines have a
big bouquet, and are oaky withdelicious fruit.
CHÂTEAU FONCHEREAU
St.-LoubèsbV
Well-structured, finely balanced vinsde garde of extremely good quality.
CHÂTEAU FOUCHÉBourg-sur-Gironde
This wine is firm yet has fat, juicyfruit and a smooth finish.
CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE-LES-TOURS
St.-André-de-Cubzac
Well-made, full, flavorsome wines.
CHÂTEAU GROSSOMBREBrannebV
Nicely concentrated, very good redwine which will improve for 12 to18 months, and representsexceptional value.
CHÂTEAU LATOURSauveterre-de-Guyenne
These medium-bodied wines haveconsistently good fruit, smoothflavor, and make a cheap way toget the “Latour” name on the table!
CHÂTEAU LAVILLESt.-Loubès
Rich, tannic, and powerfullystructured wines with spicy fruit.
MARQUIS DE BOIRACCastillon-la-Batille
bV
Super value coopérative wine with abig, oaky aroma and fruit to match.
CHÂTEAU MÉAUMECoutras
Alan Johnson-Hill used to be a UKwine merchant before settling northof Pomerol. Since then, he hasgained a reputation for cleverlytailoring this red bordeaux to youngBritish palates.
CHÂTEAU LA MICHELERIESt.-André-de-Cubzac
Another property producing a big,tannic style of wine.
CHÂTEAU LES MOINES-MARTIN
Galgon
This is well-made wine forreasonably early drinking, with anattractive bouquet, round fruit, andfine balance.
CHÂTEAU DE PIERREDON
Sauveterre-de-GuyennebV
Serious Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated bordeaux from the Haut-Benauge.
CHÂTEAU PUYFROMAGE
Lussac
Attractive, well-balanced, medium-bodied, and easy to drink.
ROSÉ DE LASCOMBESMargaux
Refreshing, fruity rosé of excellentcharacter, quality, and finesse.
CHÂTEAU SARRAIL-LA-GUILLAMERIE
St.-Loubès
Rich and fleshy wine that softensnicely with age.
CHÂTEAUDE SEGUIN
La Tresne
Look out for the Cuvée Prestige,which is rich and smoother than thebasic Château Seguin.
CHÂTEAU TOUR-DE-L�ESPÉRANCE
GalgonbV
This is soft and smooth wine, full offat, ripe, and juicy fruit, yet notwithout finesse.
CHÂTEAU TOUR PETIT PUCH
St.-Germain-du-PuchbV
Attractively colored, well-made,well-balanced wines, with a touchof spice.
CHÂTEAU DE LA VIEILLE TOUR
St.-Michel-LapujadebV
Consistently rich and smooth, evenin notoriously harsh vintages.
CHÂTEAU VIEUX MOULIN
Villegouge
These are well-rounded, long, andsupple wines, which are ofconsistently fine quality.
The style of wine alters more radically over shortdistances in the Médoc than in any other Frenchred wine district. The wines are mild andunexceptional immediately to the northwest ofBordeaux, but from Ludon onward, they becomeprogressively more characterful, acquire finesse,and—after Margaux—gain considerable body.Beyond St.-Estèphe, the firmness of body of thewines eventually turns to coarseness, and theirfinesse fades.
THE MÉDOC TAKES its name from the Latin phrase medio aquae—“between the waters”—referring to the Gironde estuaryand the Atlantic Ocean. It is a long, thin strip of prized vines,extending northwest from the city limits of Bordeaux to the Pointede Grave. At its center is the classic area of Bordeaux, where thevast majority of the most famous châteaux are located, and yetthis was the last major district of Bordeaux to be cultivated. Whilewinemaking in the Libournais district of St.-Émilion began as earlyas the Roman occupation, it was another thousand years beforescattered plots of vines spread along the Médoc. Across the large,brown expanse of water called the Gironde, the Romans viewedBourg and considered its hilly area far more suitable for growingvines. At that time the marshland of the Médoc was difficult tocross and impossible to cultivate. Today, the Médoc is the envy ofwinemakers the world over and Bourg is merely a source ofinexpensive, if good-value, basic Bordeaux.
THE MÉDOC STYLE: VARIATIONS ON A THEMEThe four famous communes of Margaux, St.-Julien, Pauillac, andSt.-Estèphe, plus the two lesser-known but developing communesof Listrac and Moulis, are to be found in a region within the Médocknown as the Haut-Médoc, where the wines are fine, firm, andfleshy. The Haut-Médoc begins at the southern outskirts of thecity of Blanquefort, along the northern reaches of the Graves district,where the wines are fairly neutral. The greatest wines of the Haut-Médoc are found in the area beginning at Ludon with Château laLagune—the first cru classé encountered moving north fromBlanquefort. Fine crus bourgeois are to be found in this area as well.
The wines at Margaux are soft and velvety and full of charm,although they are very much vins de garde and will improve wellwith age. The wines of St.-Julien are elegant with a very pureflavor. They have the delicate touch of Margaux, yet lean closer toPauillac in body. The wines of Pauillac are powerful, often havinga rich blackcurrant flavor with hints of cedar and tobacco. These
THE MÉDOC
BARREL-MAKING AT LAFITE ROTHSCHILD
Wines are aged in new oak at Château Lafite-Rothschild, although for a shorterlength of time than in the past. The barrels are made with great care in a time-honored, traditional manner.
FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY
DSOIL
Similar topsoils lie overdifferent subsoils in the Médoc. Itstopsoils are typically outcrops ofgravel, consisting of sand mixedwith siliceous gravel of varyingparticle size. Subsoils may containgravel and reach a depth of manyfeet, or may consist of sand, oftenrich in humus, and some limestoneand clay.
JVITICULTURE AND
VINIFICATION
Only red wines can use the Médocappellation. Mechanical harvestingis commonplace and all grapes aredestalked prior to fermentation intanks, or in vats increasingly madeof stainless steel. Skin contact lastsfor one to two weeks, althoughsome châteaux have reverted to theonce standard four weeks.
The Médoc lies on the left bankof the Gironde estuary, stretchingnorthwest from Bordeaux in thesouth to Soulac in the north.
FCLIMATE
Two large masses of water oneach side of the Médoc—theAtlantic and the Gironde—act as aheat-regulator and help provide amicroclimate ideal for viticulture.The Gulf Stream generally gives theMédoc mild winters, warmsummers, and long, sunny falls. Thedistrict is protected from westerlyand northwesterly winds by thecontinuous coastal strip of pineforest that runs roughly parallel tothe Médoc.
EASPECT
Undulating hillsides with knollsand gentle slopes are characteristicof the Médoc. The best vineyards can“see the river” and virtually all areasof the Haut-Médoc gradually slopefrom the watershed to the Gironde.Marshy areas, where vines cannot begrown, punctuate most communes.
70 F R A N C E
DISTRIBUTION OF MÉDOC CRUS CLASSÉSTHROUGHOUT THE APPELLATIONS
are wines of great finesse, and Pauillac can be considered thegreatest appellation of the Médoc. St.-Estèphe includes manyminor growths of rustic charm and a few classic wines, andtechnology is changing the robustness of its spicy wines torichness.
Beyond St.-Estèphe lies the commune of St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne, whose wines are entitled to use the Haut-Médocappellation, after which the appellation becomes simply AOCMédoc. This area, formerly known as the Bas-Médoc, has a lesserreputation than the Haut-Médoc. However, many exceptionalwines are made here: the triangle formed by St.-Yzans, Lesparre,and Valeyrac contains such outstanding minor growths asLoudenne, Potensac, la Cardonne, Blaignan, les Ormes-Sorbet, laTour-St-Bonnet, la Tour-de-By, and Patache d’Aux. In general thestyle is more simplistic than in the Haut-Médoc.
D145
D730
D2
D6
D732
D25
D117
D145
D253
A10
D18
D25
5
D93
7
D669
D251
D23
A10
D113
D10
D2
D1
N215
D107
N215
D104
D207
D10
4E
D5E
D3
D209
N137
N137
D3
D205
D104
N215
D3E
D3
D204
D101E
D202
D101
D102
D103E
D102E
N215
D2
D10
2E
D4
D206
52
59
2
25
17
3
3
8
22
28
12
55
49
30
11
18
40
33
27
47
33
3
92
48
21
2
40
43
42
55
3
2
MESCHERS-SUR-GIRONDE
TALAIS
SOULAC-SUR-MER
ST-VIVIEN-DE-MEDOC
MONTALIVET-LES-BAINS
LESPARRE-MÉDOC
PAUILLAC
BLAYE
BLANQUEFORT
ST-MÉDARD-EN-JALLES
BASSENS
AMBARÈS-ET-
LAGRAVE
BOURG
Gémozac
Mortagne-sur-Gironde
Valeyrac
BégadanVendays-Montalivet
St-Germain-d'Esteuil
St-Christoly-Médoc
St-Yzans-de-Médoc
St-Seurin-de-Cadourne
St-Estèphe
Vensac
Queyrac
ReignacEtauliers
Berson
Pugnac
Ambès
Parempuyre
Ludon-Médoc
Macau
St-Aubin-de-Médoc
Salaunes
Brach
Saumos
Lacanau
Lacanau-Océan
Maubuisson
Carcans
Ste-Hélène
Avensan
Castelnau-de-Medoc
le Contaut
Hourtin
Cissac-Médoc
St-Julien-Beychevelle
Vertheuil
le-Verdon-sur-Mer
Cussac-Fort-Médoc
Moulis-en-Médoc
Listrac-Médoc
Margaux
St-Laurent-Médoc
Ch. le BoscqCh. Calon-Ségur
Ch. Phélan-SégurCh. MeyneyCh. Montrose
Ch. Cos d'EstournelCh. Cos Labory
Ch. LafiteCh. Mouton-Rothschild
Ch. Lynch-Bages
Ch. Pontet-Canet
Ch. Duhart-Milon-Rothschild
Ch. Lafon-RochetCh. Andon-Blanquet
Ch. Pomys
Ch. Lynch Moussas
Ch. Batailley
Ch. Talbot
Ch. Pichon-Longueville
Ch. Beychevelle
Ch. Lagrange Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou
Ch.GruaudLarose
Ch. Marbuzet
Ch. de Pez
Ch. CamensacCh.
la TourCarnet
Ch. du Tertre Ch. Giscours
Ch. AngludetCh. Cantenac-Brown
Ch. Palmer
Ch. Marsac-Séguineau
Ch. Labégorce
Ch. MargauxCh. d'Issan
Ch. Prieuré-Lichine
Ch.Paveil-de-Luze
Livenne
IleVerte
IleNouvelle
IleBouchard
Ile de Patiras
IleCazeau
Dord
ogn
e
Giron
de
Jalle
Lac deLacanau
Etang deCousseau
Lac d' Hourtin-Carcans
Chen
ald
uG
uâ
Pointe de Grave
Gironde
Intensive vinegrowing zone
Médoc
St-EstèpheSee also p81
PauillacSee also p85
St-JulienSee also p89
Listrac-Médoc
Moulis
MargauxSee also p92
Haut-Médoc
Height abovesea level (metres)
Château
10 km2 4 6 80
6 miles2 40
THE MÉDOC , see also p63
The Médoc, a narrow strip of land between the Gironde estuary and the Atlantic Ocean, stretches northwards from thecity of Bordeaux to the Pointe de Grave. The climate is Bordeaux’s mildest, moderated by both the estuary and the ocean.
71B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C
THE FIGHT FOR GRAVEL
The best soils for vine-growingalso happen to be the mostsuitable for gravel quarrying.After WWII, in the absence ofany legislation, gravel quarryingstarted in abandoned vineyards.Once the gravel was gone, theopportunity to reclaim the areaas a vineyard was lost. There isplenty of gravel in the Girondeestuary itself, but it is moreprofitable to take it from anopen pit. Quarrying companieswill continue to plunder theMédoc’s finite resources until thegovernment agrees to protectthem, but past administrationshave shown little interest.
PROPORTION OF AOC AREA UNDER VINEREPRESENTED BY CRUS CLASSÉS
APPELLATION TOTAL TOTAL CRUS CLASSÉSACRES (HA) IN HA (ACRES) REPRESENTS
Médoc 3,240 (5,358) No crus classés Haut-Médoc 11,342 (4,590) 630 (255) 6% of AOC, 9% of crus classés Listrac 1,641 (664) – No crus classés Moulis 1,500 (607) – No crus classés St.-Estèphe 3,099 (1,254) 558 (226) 18% of AOC, 8% of crus classés Pauillac 2,988 (1,209) 2,081 (842) 70% of AOC, 30% of crus classés St.-Julien 2,246 (909) 1,552 (628) 68% of AOC, 22% of crus classés Margaux 3,464 (1,402) 2,110 (854) 61% of AOC, 31% of crus classés
TOTAL 39,520 (15,993) 6,931 (2,805) 8% of Médoc AOCs,100% of crus classés
72 F R A N C E
CLASS STRUGGLE
According to the new bourgeois growths law of November2000, the classification of wines of the Médoc is to be reassessedevery 12 years. The first reassessment under this legislation tookplace in June 2003, and of the 490 châteaux that applied forconsideration, only 245 were successful in gaining cru bourgeoisstatus. The high failure rate reflects a seriousness often lackingin recent French classifications, and I believe that in most casesthe judging panel got it right. However, some château ownersobjected to the outcome, none more so that Jean-François Mau,who was “outraged” by the exclusion of his Château Preuillac.Mau had purchased this property as recently as 1998, but thepanel tasted wines only from the vintages of 1994 to 1999, whichis why he was so critical of the process, stating “It is a hugeinjustice to be judged on the past and not present performance.”My initial reaction was that Mau was wrong, that for a classificationto be taken seriously, the successful châteaux must display afirm track record, and that he was impatient, as he will surelydo much better in the next reclassification. But on reflection, Ithink the wines tasted could have had a more recent emphasis.Part of the criteria established by the November 2000 law take
into account the reputation of any proposed bourgeois growth,and that has to be established over a period of time that—objectively—precludes the classification of Château Preuillac.But rather than tasting six vintages, the youngest of which isalmost four years old, every single vintage since the last vintagetasted at the previous reclassification should be sampled. Nothingless will do, if this law is to stand the test of time. And, whereasit might not be right to classify according to the latest vintagesonly, the system could be made sufficiently flexible to awardsome form of commended classification for those châteaux thathave made a profound and demonstrable effort to improvequality in recent years. This would not only be fair to newowners, and established ones who have renewed their efforts,but it would also perform a service for consumers, pointingthem in the direction of Médoc wines that are improving witheach vintage. This presumes, of course, that the Syndicat desCrus Bourgeois du Médoc is organized for the benefit ofconsumers, and not just its own glorification. The current 2003classification consists of 9 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels, 87 CrusBourgeois Supérieurs, and 151 Crus Bourgeois as follows:
Château Lalande (Saint-Julien-Beychevelle, Saint-Julien)
Château Lamothe-Cissac (Cissac-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
Château Larose Perganson (Saint-Laurent-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
Château Larrivaux (Cissac-Médoc,Haut-Médoc)
Château Larruau (Margaux, Margaux)
Château Laujac (Bégadan, Médoc)
Château La Lauzette-Declercq(Listrac-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc)
Château Leyssac (Saint-Estèphe,Saint-Estèphe)
Château Lieujean (Saint-Sauveur,Haut-Médoc)
Château Liouner (Listrac-Médoc,Listrac-Médoc)
Château Lousteauneuf (Valeyrac, Médoc)
Château Magnol (Blanquefort, Haut-Médoc)
Château de Marbuzet (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Marsac Séguineau(Soussans, Margaux)
Château Martinens (Cantenac, Margaux)
Château Maurac (Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, Haut-Médoc)
Château Mazails (Saint-Yzans-de-Médoc, Médoc)
Château Le Meynieu (Vertheuil,Haut-Médoc)
Château Meyre (Avensan, Haut-Médoc)
Château Les Moines (Couquèques, Médoc)
Château Mongravey (Arsac, Margaux)
Château Le Monteil d’Arsac (Arsac,Haut-Médoc)
Château Morin (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château de Moulin Rouge (Cussac-Fort-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
Château La Mouline (Moulis-en-Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc)
Château Muret (Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, Haut-Médoc)
Château Noaillac (Jau-Dignac-Loirac, Médoc)
Château du Perier (Saint-Christoly-de-Médoc, Médoc)
Château Le Pey (Bégadan, Médoc)
Château Peyrabon (Saint-Sauveur,Haut-Médoc)
Château Peyredon Lagravette(Listrac-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc)
Château Peyre-Lebade (Listrac-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
Château Picard (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Plantey (Pauillac, Pauillac)
Château Poitevin (Jau-Dignac-Loirac, Médoc)
Château Pomys
(Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Pontac Lynch (Cantenac, Margaux)
Château Pontey (Blaignan, Médoc)
Château Pontoise Cabarrus (Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, Haut-Médoc)
Château Puy Castéra (Cissac-Médoc,Haut-Médoc)
Château Ramafort (Blaignan, Médoc)
Château du Raux (Cussac-Fort-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
Château La Raze Beauvallet (Civrac, Médoc)
Château du Retout (Cussac-Fort-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
Château Reverdi (Listrac-Médoc,Listrac-Médoc)
Château Roquegrave (Valeyrac, Médoc)
Château Saint-Ahon (Blanquefort,Haut-Médoc)
Château Saint-Aubin (Saint-Sauveur, Médoc)
Château Saint-Christophe (Saint-Christoly-de-Médoc, Médoc)
Château Saint-Estèphe (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Saint-Hilaire (Queyrac, Médoc)
Château Saint-Paul (Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, Haut-Médoc)
Château Segue Longue (Jau-Dignac-Loirac, Médoc)
Château Ségur de Cabanac (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Semeillan Mazeau (Listrac-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc)
Château Senilhac (Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, Haut-Médoc)
Château Sipian (Valeyrac, Médoc)
Château Tayac (Soussans, Margaux)
Château Le Temple (Valeyrac, Médoc)
Château Teynac (Saint-Julien-Beychevelle, Saint-Julien)
Château La Tonnelle (Cissac-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
Château Tour Blanche (Saint-Christoly-de-Médoc, Médoc)
Château La Tour de Bessan(Cantenac, Margaux)
Château Tour des Termes (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Tour-du-Roc (Arcins, Haut-Médoc)
Château Tour Prignac (Prignac-en-Médoc, Médoc)
Château Tour Saint-Bonnet (Saint-Christoly-de-Médoc, Médoc)
Château Tour Saint-Fort (Saint-Estèphe, Saint-Estèphe)
Château Tour Saint-Joseph (Cissac-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
Château Trois Moulins (Macau, Haut-Médoc)
Château Les Tuileries (Saint-Yzans-de-Médoc, Médoc)
Château Vernous (Lesparre, Médoc)
Château Vieux Château Landon(Bégadan, Médoc)
Château de Villambis (Cissac-Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
HAUT-MÉDOC AOCThis AOC encompasses the Médoc’s four finestcommunes—Margaux, St.-Julien, Pauillac, andSt.-Estèphe—as well as the less well-knownListrac and Moulis communes. Wines producedoutside these six appellations but within theHaut-Médoc are not generally as thrilling,although infinitely superior to those of Médoc.Among these very reliable wines are a fewgreat-value crus classés and many high-qualitycrus bourgeois, but although Haut-Médoc is aname to look out for on the label of château-bottled wines, it counts for little on a generic.
RED These dry wines have a generosity of fruittempered by a firm structure, and are medium-to full-bodied.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carmenère
k6–15 years (crus classés); 5–8 years (others)
LISTRAC-MÉDOC AOCSignificant funds have been invested in anumber of high-performance châteaux in thiscommune, although its heavy clay soil does nothave anything like as much potential as thegravel ridges found in the most famous Médocappellations.
RED These dry, medium- to full-bodied wineshave the fruit and finesse of St.-Julien combined with the firmness of St.-Estèphe. Themost successful wines tend to have a largeproportion of Merlot, which enjoys the Haut-Médoc’s clay soil.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k5–10 years
MARGAUX AOC
The best Margaux are potentially the greatestwines in the whole of Bordeaux, but this is anappellation that covers five communesencompassing a great diversity of soil and someof its wines not unnaturally have a tendency todisappoint. Margaux benefits enormously fromhaving a namesake château, which is unique inBordeaux, and the fact that this property setsthe most extraordinarily high standards hasdone no harm to the reputation and price ofthese wines generally. The phenomenal successof Château Margaux has, however, unfairlyraised expectations of many lesser-qualitychâteaux in the area, but those critics whowidely accuse proprietors of sacrificing qualityfor quantity could not be further from the truth.There are individual châteaux that overproduceand therefore fail to achieve their full potential,but excessive volume is not typically theproblem with this appellation, since it has the
lowest yield per acre of the four famous MédocAOCs.
RED Exquisite, dry, medium-bodied, andsometimes full-bodied, wines that can be deep-colored and fabulously rich, yet they have greatfinesse and a silky finish.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k5–20 years (crus classés); 5–10 years (others)
MÉDOC AOCTechnically, this appellation covers the entireMédoc, but most wines actually come fromnorth of the Haut-Médoc in the area that wasformerly called the Bas-Médoc. Its vineyardshave undergone a rapid and extensiveexpansion since the mid-1970s.
RED The best of these dry, medium-bodied wines are similar in style to good Haut-Médocs, although the style is lesssophisticated.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k4–8 years
MOULIS AOC ORMOULIS-EN-MÉDOC AOC
One of the two communal appellations locatedon the Atlantic side of the Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc is smaller and potentially moreinteresting than its neighbor Listrac. Like Listrac, it has no cru classé châteaux, despiteadjoining Margaux, the appellation that has the highest number of such properties in the Médoc.
RED These dry, medium-bodied, sometimesfull-bodied, wines have more power than those of Margaux, but far less finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k5–12 years
PAUILLAC AOC
This commune vies with Margaux as the mostfamous appellation, but is without doubt themost rock solid and consistent of BordeauxAOCs, while its premiers crus of Latour, Lafite,and Mouton make it the most important.
RED Dark and virtually opaque, great Pauillac isa dry, powerfully constructed wine, typicallyredolent of blackcurrants and new oak. It mightbe unapproachable when young, but is alwaysrich with fruit when mature. Although it doesnot have the grace of great Margaux, Pauillac
brings power and style together to producewines of incomparable finesse for their size.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k9–25 years (crus classés); 5–12 years (others)
ST-ESTÈPHE AOC
The potential of St-Estèphe is exemplified by Cos d’Estournel, which is one of the best deuxièmes crus in the Médoc, but the strength of this appellation lies in its range of crus bourgeois. The area under vine isslightly less than that of Margaux, which has the largest area, but St.-Estèphe has far more unclassified châteaux, and even the best wines are wonderfully cheap.
RED If Pauillac is the stallion of the fourfamous appellations, St.-Estèphe must be the dray horse. These dry, full-bodied wines are big and strong, yet not without dignity. St-Estèphe demands affection and, with the rich fruit of a sunny year, deserves it. Thesemost enjoyable, sweet-spice and cedary wines can have lots of honest, chunky fruit. Cos d’Estournel is the thoroughbred of the commune.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k8–25 years (crus classés); 5–12 years (others)
ST-JULIEN AOCSt-Julien is the smallest of the four famousappellations and the most intensively cultivated, with almost 50 percent of thecommune under vine. There are no firstgrowths, but there are as many as five seconds,and the standard and consistency of style isvery high. This AOC overlaps part of thecommune of Pauillac, and, historically, châteauxLatour and Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse-de-Lalande could as easily have become St-JulienAOC as Pauillac AOC.RED These are dry, medium-bodied, sometimes full-bodied, wines that have purity of style, varietal flavor, and can be long-lived. Well balanced and elegant, these winesfall somewhere between the lushness that istypical of Margaux and the firmer structure of Pauillac.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot
k6–20 years (crus classés); 5–12 years (others)
THE APPELLATIONS OF
THE MÉDOC
74 F R A N C E
THE WINE PRODUCERS OF
THE MÉDOCCHÂTEAU D�AGASSAC
AOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
cbV
This is one of the best unclassifiedwines in the Haut-Médoc. The wineis matured in wood for 15 months,with one-third new oak.
RED Dark-colored, plummy wine,with a lot of soft, ripe fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 47%,Merlot 50%, Petit Verdot 3%
k4–10 yearsSecond wine: Château Pomiès-Agassac
CHÂTEAU D�AURILHAC
AOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeoisc
A relative newcomer that hasquickly developed a cult following.The grapes are machine harvested,and the wine is matured in woodfor 12 months, with 35 percent new oak.
RED A flashy, huge, dark, anddense wine with masses of fruit tobalance the ripe tannins andextrovert oak.
gCabernet Sauvignon 56%,Merlot 38%, Cabernet Franc3%, Petit Verdot 3%
k5–15 yearsSecond wine: Château La Fagotte
CHÂTEAU BEAUMONTAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
A large property that consistentlyproduces wines of good quality.This wine is matured in wood for 12 months, with 30 percent new oak.
RED These are aromaticallyattractive wines with elegant fruitand supple tannin.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc 2%, Petit Verdot 3%
k4–8 years
Second wine: Château d’Arvigny
Other wine: Tours de Beaumont
CHÂTEAU BEL-AIR LAGRAVE
AOC Moulis, Cru BourgeoisbV
This growth was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but not includedin the Syndicat’s 1978 list. The wineis matured in wood for 18 to 20months, with 70 percent new oak.
RED These vividly colored wineshave a fine bouquet and firm tannicstructure.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Petit Verdot 5%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Château Peyvigneau
CHÂTEAU BELGRAVEAOC Haut-Médoc 5ème Cru Classé
cbV
Situated on a good gravel bankbehind Château Lagrange, the wine,which is matured in wood for 24months with up to 50 percent newoak, has improved consistentlythroughout the 1990s.
RED A good balance ofblackcurrant fruit and ripe acidity,with much more supple tanninstructure than used to be the case,and vanilla overtones of new oak.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 32%, Cabernet Franc12%, Petit Verdot 1%
k8–16 yearsSecond wine: Diane de Belgrave
CHÂTEAU BEL-ORME-TRONQUOY-DE-LALANDE
AOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeoisc
This property has a confusinglysimilar name to Château Tronquoy-Lalande, St.-Estèphe. Steadyimprovement since the mid-1990shas turned the once four-squarecharacter of these wines into a moreclassically structured style. Thiswine is matured in wood for 12 to14 months, with 10 percent newoak.
RED These are firm, fruity,classically structured wines.
Consistently performing above itsclass, this château is situated on fine,gravelly ground that once had theright to the Pauillac appellation andformed part of a cru classé. Thequality has improved since theproperty was purchased in 1996 by the redoubtable MadameLencquesaing, who also ownsPichon-Longueville-Comtesse-de-Lalande. This wine is now matured in
wood for 12 months, with 30percent new oak.
RED These wines are very stylish,with lush Cabernet fruit backed upby the creamy richness of new oak.
gCabernet Sauvignon 62%,Merlot 36%, Cabernet Francand Petit Verdot 2%
k6–12 yearsSecond wine: Château Le FournasBernadotte
CHÂTEAU BISTON-BRILLETTE
AOC Moulis Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
cbV
This top-quality Moulis propertyages its wines in wood for 12 to 15months, with up to 35 percent newoak.
RED Wines that are very rich incolor and fruit with a full, spicy-cassis character and a supple tanninstructure.
A big improvement in quality andvalue since this 32-acre (13-hectare)property was leased by PhilippePorcheron of nearby Château RoseSaint-Croix. Wines are matured inwood for 18 months with up to 50percent new oak. La Fleur deBouqueyran is a superior cuvée.
RED Lovely deep-colored, deep-flavored wines of not inconsiderablestyle and finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 41%,Merlot 57%, Petit Verdot 2%
k5–10 yearsSecond wine: Les Tourelles deBouqueyran
CHÂTEAU LE BOURDIEU VERTHEUIL
AOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois
Situated between Vertheuil and St.-Estèphe, this château was classifiedcru bourgeois in 1932, but notincluded in the Syndicat’s 1978 list.This wine is matured in wood for12 months, with 30 per cent newoak.
RED Well-colored, full-bodiedwines of robust character that arenot lacking in charm.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 5%
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Château Haut-Brignays
Other wines: Château La Croixdes Sablons, Château Victoria-Picourneau
CHÂTEAU BRANAS GRANDPOUJEAUX
AOC MouliscbV
These excellent and rapidlyimproving wines are aged in woodfor 18 months, with 100 percentnew oak.
RED Thanks to an increase inMerlot, this wine has plenty ofaccessible fruit, charming aromaticproperties, and increasing finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 45%, Petit Verdot 5%
k5–12 yearsSecond wine: Clos des Demoiselles
CHÂTEAU BRILLETTEAOC Moulis
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcbV
This château’s name reputedlyderives from its glinting, pebbly soil.The wine is matured in wood for 12months, with 40 percent new oak.
RED These are attractively coloredwines of full but supple body, withdelightful summer-fruit and vanillaaromas. Easily equivalent to cruclassé quality.
gCabernet Sauvignon 40%,Merlot 48%, CabernetSauvignon 9%, Petit Verdot 3%
k5–12 years
CHÂTEAU CAMBON-LA-PELOUSE
AOC Haut-MédocCru Bourgeois Supérieur
b
Under the same ownership asChâteau Grand Barrail-Lamarzelle-
75B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C
flavored, full-bodied wines made ina vin de garde style.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 20%, Petit Verdot 5%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Château Les Refletsdu Cissac
Other wine: Château Abiet
CHÂTEAU CITRANAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
This substantial-sized property wasonce run by Château Coufran, thenpassed into Japanese ownership,under the Fujimoto company, whichinvested in improvements in thevineyard and winery. In 1997, it wastaken back into French ownership,under the auspices of GroupeTaillan, and is run personally byCéline Villars. This wine is maturedin wood for 12 to 14 months, with40 percent new oak.
RED A once solid, if plodding,Médoc of robust character, the stylehas become more accessible sincethe mid-1990s, and since the newmillennium has shown a trueplumpness of fruit, with notinconsiderable finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 58%,Merlot 42%
k5–15 yearsSecond wine: Moulins de Citran
CHÂTEAU LA CLAREAOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois
bV
A well-established property that isreceiving renewed attention of late.Approximately 30 percent of thewine is matured in wood for 23months, with 5–10 percent new oak.
RED A rich, nicely colored,medium-bodied wine with somespicy finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 57%,Merlot 36%, Cabernet Franc 7%
k4-8 yearsSecond wines: Laveline,Gentilhomme
CHÂTEAU CLARKEAOC Listrac
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
This estate’s vines were dug up andits château pulled down in 1950. Allwas abandoned until 1973, when itwas purchased by Baron Edmundde Rothschild. He completelyrestored the vineyard and installedan ultramodern winery. Since the1981 vintage, it has become one ofthe Médoc’s fastest-rising stars. Thewine is fermented in stainless steel
CHÂTEAU CAP-LÉON-VEYRIN
AOC ListracCru Bourgeois Supérieur
b
Simply called Château Cap-Léonoriginally, the vines of this propertyare planted in two plots of clay-gravel soil over marl.
RED Deep-colored, full-bodied,richly flavored wines with highextract levels and a good balance oftannin.
gCabernet Sauvignon 35%,Merlot 60%, Petit Verdot 5%
k5–12 years
CHÂTEAU LA CARDONNE
AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
cV
This property was purchased by theRothschilds of Lafite in 1973 andhas since been expanded andrenovated. This wine is matured inwood for 12 months, with 50percent new oak.
RED These are attractive, medium-bodied wines with a good, grapeyperfume and a silky texture, madein an elegant style.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 50%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k6–10 years
CHÂTEAU CARONNE-STE.-GEMME
AOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
cbV
This property is situated south ofChâteau Lagrange—a superb islandof vines on a gravel plateau.Matured in wood for 12 months,with 25 percent new oak.
RED Full-bodied wines rich inflavor with undertones of creamyoak, and a supple, tannin structure.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 33%, Petit Verdot 2%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Château Labat
CHÂTEAU CASTÉRAAOC Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
The original château was reduced toruins by the Black Prince in the14th century. This wine is maturedin wood for 12 months, with one-third new oak.
RED Soft-textured, medium-bodiedwines best drunk relatively young.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 45%, Cabernet Franc7%, Petit Verdot 3%
k4–8 yearsSecond wine: Château Bourbon LaChapelle
Other wines: Château Moulin deBuscateau, La Chapelle du Castera
Figeac, this estate was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but not includedin the Syndicat’s 1978 list. This wineis matured in wood for 12 months,with 45 percent new oak.
RED Soft, medium- to full-bodiedwines with fresh and juicy flavors.
Situated behind Château Belgrave,this property was renovated in themid-1960s by the new owners, theForner brothers, who are of Spanishorigin, and later established Marquèsde Cáceres in Rioja. Camensac beganmaking wine equivalent to itsclassification in the late 1970s, andsince 1995 has been performingbeyond its class. It is matured inwood for 17 to 20 months, with35–70 percent new oak.
RED Well-structured wine, with amedium weight of fruit and acertain amount of finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 40%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: La Closerie deCamensac
Other wine: Le Bailly de Camensac
CHÂTEAU CANTEMERLE
AOC Haut-Médoc 5ème Cru ClassécbV
In 1980, new stainless-steelfermentation vats replaced the old wooden ones that had beenresponsible for some stingyvintages. Also discarded were all the old casks, so the 1980vintage was uniquely matured in 100 percent new oak. The wine is normally matured in woodfor 18 to 20 months, with one-third new oak. It is currentlyperforming above its classification.
RED Deliciously rich wines of fine color, creamy-oaky fruit,beautiful balance, and increasingfinesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Villeneuve deCantemerle
76 F R A N C E
CHÂTEAU CHANTELYSAOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois
bV
Owner Christine CourrianBraquissac brings a gentle touch tothe naturally firm wines of thisdistrict.
RED Well-colored, medium-bodied,gently rich-flavored wines of someelegance.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 40%, Petit Verdot 5%
k3–8 yearsSecond wine: Château Gauthier
CHÂTEAU CHARMAILAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
The wines from this château haveimproved dramatically since itsexcellent 1996 vintage, and continueto perform well in recent blindtastings. This wine is matured inwood for 12 months, with 30percent new oak.
RED Rich, spicy, and long, withwell-rounded, ripe tannins.
gCabernet Sauvignon 30%,Cabernet Franc 20%, Merlot48%, Petit Verdot 2%
k3–7 yearsSecond wine: Château Tours deCharmail
CHÂTEAU CHASSE-SPLEENAOC Moulis
Cru Bourgeois ExceptionnelccV
The proprietor of this quality-conscious property also owns thecru classé Château Haut-Bages-Libéral and the excellentunclassified growth of Château laGurgue in Margaux. The wine ismatured in wood for 18 monthswith 40 percent new oak, and isusually of cru classé quality.Certainly, it well deserves beingrecently classified as one of onlynine crus bourgeois exceptionnels.
RED Full-bodied wines of greatfinesse, vivid color, with a luxuriant,creamy-rich flavor of cassis andchocolate with warm, spicy-vanillaundertones. Easily equivalent to cruclassé quality.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 25%, Petit Verdot 5%
Château Cissac is always goodvalue, especially in hot years. It isfermented in wood and matured incask with no vin de presse. Thiswine is matured in wood for 18months, with up to 50 percentnew oak.
RED These are deep-colored, well-
77B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C
and matured in wood for 12 to 18months, with up to 80 percent newoak.
RED Well-colored wines have agood measure of creamy-smokyoak, soft fruit, and increasingfinesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 40%,Merlot 60%
k7–25 yearsSecond wine: Château Grangesdes Domaines Edmond de Rothschild
CHÂTEAU COUFRANAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
These wines are matured in woodfor 13 to 18 months, with 25percent new oak.
RED Frank and fruity, this medium-to full-bodied wine has a chunky,chocolaty flavor, which isdominated by Merlot.
gCabernet Sauvignon 15%,Merlot 85%, Petit Verdot 5%
k4–12 yearsSecond wine: Domaine de la Rose-Maréchale
CHÂTEAU DUTRUCHGRAND POUJEAUX
AOC Moulis Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
cV
Dutruch is one of the best GrandPoujeaux satellite properties. It alsomakes two other wines from thespecific-named plots “La Bernède”and “La Gravière.” Matured in woodfor 12 months, with 25 percent newoak.
RED These are fine, full-bodiedwines of excellent color, fruit, andfinesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 50%, Petit Verdot 5%
k7–15 yearsOther wines: La Bernède-Grand-Poujeaux, La Gravière-Grand-Poujeaux
CHÂTEAU FONRÉAUDAOC Listrac
Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
This splendid château has south-facing vineyards situated on andaround a knoll, Puy-de-Menjon. Thiswine is matured in wood for 12 to18 months, with one-third new oak.
RED Attractive medium- to full-bodied wines of good fruit andsome style.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 42%, Petit Verdot 3%
k6–12 yearsSecond wine: La Tourelle deChâteau Fonréaud
CHÂTEAU FOURCAS DUPRÉ
AOC Listrac Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
cV
A charming house, with vineyardssituated on gravel over iron-pan
soil, which can excel in hot years.This wine is matured in wood for12 months, with one-third new oak.
RED The good color, bouquet, andtannic structure of these wines isrewarded with rich fruit in goodyears.
gCabernet Sauvignon 44%,Merlot 44%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 2%
k6–12 years
CHÂTEAU FOURCAS HOSTENAOC Listrac Cru Bourgeois
cV
Under multinational ownership(French, Danish, and American)since 1972, the winemaking facilitieshere have been renovated. Thewines are matured in wood for 12months, with one-third new oak.
RED Deeply colored and full-bodied wines, rich in fruit andsupported by a firm tannic structure,although the style is becoming moresupple, and can even be quite fat inripe years like 1982.
The quality here has been excellentsince the mid-1990s, but has takenanother step up since 1999, whenthe château was purchased byBernard Magrez, one of the jointowners of Château Pape Clément.Magrez runs this propertypersonally. The wine is matured inwood for 12 to 15 months, withone-third new oak (except for its“Prestige Cuvée,” which utilizes 100percent new oak).
RED Lush and charming, withopulent fruit and fine aciditybalance.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 5%
This château was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but not in 1978.It has in recent years producedsuccessful wines that compare wellwith good crus classés. This wine ismatured in wood for 24 months,with one-third new oak.
RED Full-bodied wines with plentyof fruit and flavor. Well worth layingdown.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc
10%, Petit Verdot 10%
k6–12 years
CHÂTEAU GREYSACAOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
bV
Since it was purchased by the lateBaron de Gunzbourg in 1973, thefacilities of this château haveundergone extensive modernization.The quality of the wine is excellentand its future promising. This wineis matured in wood for 12 months,with 25 percent new oak.
RED Stylish, medium-bodied wineswith silky-textured, ripe-fruit flavors.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 45%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k6–10 years
CHÂTEAU HANTEILLANAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
Under the enthusiastic direction ofCatherine Blasco, this large propertyproduces a consistently fine wine,and her achievements have beenconsolidated by the newwinemaking facilities. This wine ismatured in wood for 12 months,with 30 percent new oak.
RED The wine has a fine color,spicy bouquet with underlyingvanilla-oak tones, ripe fruit, andsupple tannins.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 41%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 4%
k6–12 yearsSecond wine: Château LarrivauxHanteillan
CHÂTEAU LACOMBE-NOILLAC
AOC Haut-MédocbV
Jean-Michel Lapalu’s property boastssome of the most northerly vines inthe Médoc. The wine is matured inwood for 6 months, with 15 percentnew oak.
RED Elegant, medium-bodied winesof surprising style and finesse forthe location.
gCabernet Sauvignon 58%,Cabernet Franc 6%, Merlot32%, Petit Verdot 4%
k4-10 yearsSecond wine: Château LesTraverses
Other wine: Château Les TraversesLa Franque
CHÂTEAU LA LAGUNEAOC Haut-Médoc 3ème Cru Classé
cbV
Owned by the Ducellier family ofChampagne Ayala, the immaculatevineyard of this fine château is thefirst cru classé encountered afterleaving Bordeaux, and is situated onsand and gravel soil. The châteauitself was completely renovated in2003. This wine is matured in wood
for 16 to 18 months, with 100percent new oak.
RED These wines are deep-coloredwith complex cassis and stone-fruitflavors intermingled with rich,creamy-vanilla oak nuances. Theyare full-bodied but supple.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 10%
k5–30 yearsSecond wine: Moulin de Lagune
CHÂTEAU DE LAMARQUEAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
This large and constantly improvingproperty is owned and run byPierre-Gilles and Marie-HélèneGromand-Brunet d’Évry. Thevineyard was systematicallyreplanted in the 1960s and iscurrently at its optimum age forboth quality and volume. While itwill gradually decline in yield, thequality should continue to improve.The wine is matured in wood for 12to 15 months, with one-third newoak.
RED This wine has the supple styleof a modern Médoc, with plenty ofreal fruit flavor, and an enticinglyperfumed bouquet.
gCabernet Sauvignon 46%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc24%, Petit Verdot 5%
k5–12 yearsSecond wine: D de Lamarque
Other wines: Réserve du Marquisd’Évry, Noblesse Oblige (saigné rosé)
CHÂTEAU LAMOTHE-CISSAC
AOC Haut-MédocCru Bourgeois
cV
An up-and-coming wine from oneof Bordeaux’s oldest properties,Lamothe-Cissac is matured in woodfor 12 to 14 months, with 20percent new oak. It has recentlystarted to outperform Cissac.
RED Classically proportioned,Cabernet-dominated wines ofexcellent potential longevity.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 26%, Petit Verdot 4%
k4–16 years
CHÂTEAU LANESSANAOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois
SupérieurcbV
Supposedly missed out from the1855 classification because theowner forgot to submit samples, orcould not be bothered, this châteauwas later classified cru bourgeois in1932, but not included in theSyndicat’s 1978 list. The grapes aremachine harvested, and the winesare matured in wood for 15 months,with no claim of any new oak.
RED Big, intensely flavored winesof deep, often opaque, color and aquality that closely approaches that
fermented in stainless steel andmatured in wood for 12 months,with 25 percent new oak.
RED Rich and flavorful wines, offull body and some style. They aregaining in class with each vintage.
gCabernet Sauvignon 49%,Merlot 38%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 3%
k7–20 yearsSecond wine: Les Charmes desLiversan
CHÂTEAU LOUDENNEAOC Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
This pink-washed, Chartreuse-stylechâteau, with its lawns runningdown to the Gironde, oncebelonged to W. and A. Gilbey, whoran it in a style that harkened backto the last days of the BritishEmpire. It was sold to Jean-PaulLafgragette in 1999. The wine ismatured in wood for 15 to 18months, with 25 percent new oak.Loudenne also produces a dry whitewine that is attractive when drunkone to two years after the harvest.
RED Full-bodied wines with aspicy-blackcurrant bouquet,sometimes silky and hinting ofviolets, with underlying vanilla oak,a big mouthful of rich and ripe fruit,excellent extract, and great length.
k5–15 yearsSecond wines: Château Lestagne,Pavillon de Loudenne
CHÂTEAU MALESCASSEAOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois
SupérieurbV
78 F R A N C E
of a cru classé, requiring a similarminimum aging before its fruitshows through.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc1%, Petit Verdot 4%
k7–20 yearsSecond wine: Domaine de Ste-Gemme
CHÂTEAU LAROSE-TRINTAUDONAOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois
SupérieurcbV
This is the largest estate in theMédoc and was under the sameownership as Château Camensacuntil 1986, during which time vastsums were spent on renovation. Thestandard of these wines, which arematured in wood for 12 monthswith 25 percent new oak, is as highas it has ever been.
RED Medium-bodied, andsometimes full-bodied, wines withan elegantly rich flavor of juicysummer fruits, vanilla, and truffles,backed up by supple tannins.Larose-Perganson is more of a têtede cuvée than a second wine.Representing just 15 percent of thetotal production, this wine isexclusively from the oldest vinesand the grapes are all handpicked,in contrast to Larose-Trintaudon,which is machine-picked.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k6–15 yearsSecond wine: Larose Saint-Laurent
Other wines: tChâteau Larose-Perganson, Les Hauts de Trintaudon
CHÂTEAU LESTAGE-DARQUIER
AOC MouliscV
This is the least encountered of themany Poujeaux châteaux (formerlysold as Château Lestage-Darquier-Grand-Poujeaux), but well worthdigging out. This wine is matured inwood for 9 to 12 months, with 100percent year-old oak.
RED Densely colored wines, rich inbouquet and fruit, with a powerfulstructure.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 45%, Cabernet Franc2%, Petit Verdot 2%
k8–20 years
CHÂTEAU LIVERSANAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
The estate of Château Liversan waspurchased in 1984 by Prince Guy dePolignac, when it was inexorablylinked with Champagne Pommery,but was first leased and then sold tothe owners of Patache d’Aux. Thevineyard is on fine, sandy gravelover a limestone subsoil, just under2 miles (3 kilometers) from Lafiteand Mouton-Rothschild. The wine is
claret, getting better with eachvintage.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc 10%
k4–8 yearsSecond wine: Le Closerie deMalescasse
CHÂTEAU DE MALLERETAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
Château de Malleret is a vast estate,which incorporates a stud farm withtwo training racetracks and stablesfor both hunting and racing. Thevineyard boasts 148 acres (60hectares). This wine is matured inwood for 12 to 16 months, with upto 50 percent new oak.
RED Delightful wines of goodbouquet, medium body, and juicy-rich fruit. Improving.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc3%, Petit Verdot 2%
k5–12 years
CHÂTEAU MAUCAILLOUAOC Moulis
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcbV
Château Maucaillou is consistentlyone of the best-value winesproduced in Bordeaux. This wine ismatured in wood for 18 months,with up to 80 percent new oak.
RED Deep-colored, full-bodiedwine with masses of velvety-textured fruit, beautiful cassis andvanilla flavors, and supple tannins.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 36%, Cabernet Franc2%, Petit Verdot 7%
k6–15 yearsSecond wine: Château Cap deHaut-Maucaillou
Other wine: Château Duplessis-Fabre
CHÂTEAU MAUCAMPSAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
Situated between Macau itself andthe cru classé Cantemerle to thesouth, this château makes superbuse of its 37 acres (15 hectares) offine, gravelly vineyards. This wine ismatured in wood for 16 months,with up to 40 percent new oak.
RED Always a deep-colored, full-bodied wine with plenty of fruitflavor supported by supple tannins.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 40%, Petit Verdot 10%
k5–12 yearsSecond wine: Clos de May
CHÂTEAU LE MEYNIEU AOC
Haut-Médoc Cru BourgeoiscV
This property is under the sameownership as Château Lavillotte,which is situated in St.-Estèphe. The
deep-colored wine is not filteredbefore it is bottled.
RED This is a deep, dark, broodingwine of dense bouquet and solidfruit which promises much for thefuture.
gCabernet Sauvignon 62%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 8%
k7–15 years
CHÂTEAUMOULIN-À-VENT
AOC MoulisCru Bourgeois Supérieur
One-third of the property ofChâteau Moulin-à-Vent overlaps thecommune of Listrac, but itsappellation is still Moulis. This wineis matured in wood for 20 months,with 25 percent new oak.
RED Medium-bodied wines with anelegant bouquet and a full flavor.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Petit Verdot 5%
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Moulin-de-St.-Vincent
CHÂTEAU NOAILLACAOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois
bV
Under the same ownership asChâteau La Tour de By. The wine ismatured in wood for up to 12months, with 15 percent new oak.
RED Deliciously fruity style,underpinned by a discreet use ofoak.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 40%, Petit Verdot 5%
k3-8 yearsSecond wines: Moulin de Noaillac,La Rose Noaillac, Les Palombes deNoaillac
CHÂTEAULES ORMES-SORBET
AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
cV
Owned by the Boivert family since1764. The wine today is matured inwood for 18 to 20 months, withone-third new oak.
RED Once reputed for itscharacterful wines of substantialbody, dense fruit, and positiveflavor, this château has made anincreasingly opulent style, with finearomatics, since the early 1990s,fully justifying its 2003 crubourgeois supérieur classification.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 30%, Petit Verdot 2%,Carmenère 1%
k4–15 yearsSecond wine: Château de Conques
CHÂTEAU PALOUMEYAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
An old property that enjoyed famein the 19th century, but was leftrundown and forgotten until thecurrent owner, Martine Cazeneuve,replanted it in 1990. The wine is
Entirely replanted between 1970and 1992, Château Malescasse waspurchased midway through thisprocess by the owner of Pontet-Canet and Lafon-Rochet, only to besold to Alcatel Alsthon oncecompleted. The wine is matured inwood for 16 months, with 30percent new oak.
RED Firm, dependable, good-value
property, reducing yields, andupdating the vinification facilities,which is why he was so upset notto have been included in the 2003cru bourgeois classification (seep72), although there is no doubtthat it will succeed at the nextreclassification in 2015. Certainly, ifthe current rate of improvement canbe maintained, this château will dovery well. The grapes are allhandpicked, then sorted on tables,while the wines are fermented instainless steel (2001 being the firstsuch vintage), then matured inwood for 18 months, with 20 percentnew oak.
RED The creamy cassis andchocolaty fruit in these wines is atestament to Mau’s efforts. Preuillacused to be rather rustic, but nowshows more finesse with each andevery vintage.
gCabernet Sauvignon 54%,Merlot 44%, Cabernet Franc 2%
k4–12 years
CHÂTEAU RAMAGE-LA-BATISSE
AOC Haut-MédocCru Bourgeois Supérieur
cV
This property has excelled itselfsince the late 1980s, making winesof remarkable quality–price ratiowhich are matured in wood for 14months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED Rich, well-flavored, oakywines that are immediately attractivein light years and ridiculouslyinexpensive vins de garde in thebest vintages. Not unlike a poorman’s Lynch-Bages (which, in turn,I have called a poor man’s Latour!).
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 23%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 2%
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Le Terrey
Other wine: Château Dutellier
CHÂTEAU ROLLAN DE BYAOC Médoc
Cru Bourgeois Supérieurcb
79B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C
matured in wood for 12 to 15months, with one-third new oak.
RED Deliciously rich and ripe, fruit-driven style that is underpinned bya nicely restrained use of oak, withexceptional finesse for such youngvines. Can only get better!
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k4–8 yearsSecond wines: Les Ailes dePaloumey, Château Haut-Carmaillet
CHÂTEAU PATACHE-D�AUX
AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
bV
This old property once belonged tothe Aux family, descendants of thecounts of Armagnac, but waspurchased by a syndicate headed byClaude Lapalu in 1964. AlthoughPatache-d’Aux is always reliable, ithas performed particularly wellsince its stunning 1990 vintage. Thewine is matured in wood for 12months, with 25 percent new oak.
RED Stylish, highly perfumed,medium-bodied wine with veryaccessible fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc7%, Petit Verdot 3%
k4–8 yearsSecond wine: Le Relais dePatache-d’Aux
Other wines: Les Chevaux dePatache-d’Aux
CHÂTEAU PEYRABONAOC Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois
bV
Virtually unknown until 1998, whenit was purchased by Millesima(formerly Les Vins des GrandsVignobles), Château Peyrabon ismatured in wood for 18 months,with one-third new oak.
RED Sturdy style, but not lacking infruit, and usually very good value.
gCabernet Sauvignon 57%,Merlot 37%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 1%
k5–10 yearsSecond wines: Lapiey, Château LeFleur Peyrabon
Other wines: Château Pierbone,Domaine du Roman
CHÂTEAU PLAGNACAOC Médoc
Owned by Domaines Cordier since1972, this property has producedconsistently good-value redBordeaux since the end of thatdecade. The wine is matured inwood for 12 months.
RED Full-bodied and full-flavored,with some breed; lots of up-frontMerlot fruit, and a smooth finish.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 35%,
k4–10 yearsSecond wine: Château Haut dePlagnac
CHÂTEAU PONTEYAOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois
cbV
Owned by the Bordeaux négociantQuancard family, this châteauoccupies an excellent location on agravel plateau. The wines arematured in wood for 12 months,with one-third new oak.
RED These wines have always beencleverly constructed and brimmingwith lush, oaky fruit, but they areeven more lush than before.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 55%
k3–12 yearsSecond wine: Château VieuxPrezat
Other wine: Château PonteyCaussan
CHÂTEAU POTENSACAOC Médoc
Cru Bourgeois ExceptionnelcbV
This property is under the sameownership as Château Léoville-Las-Cases in St.-Julien, and its winesoften aspire to cru classé quality,fully justifying the cru bourgeoisexceptionnel classification in 2003.The wine is fermented in stainlesssteel, then matured in wood for 18months, with 20 percent new oak.
RED Classy, full-bodied wines of alovely, brick-red color, with lots offruit and underlying chocolate andspice flavors.
Other wines: Château Gallais-Bellevue, Goudy la Cardonne
CHÂTEAUX POUJEAUXAOC Moulis
Cru Bourgeois ExceptionnelccV
After Chasse-Spleen, this châteauproduces the best wine in Moulisand is easily the equivalent of agood cru classé. Hence, it was nosurprise that it was classified as oneof only nine crus bourgeoisexceptionnels in 2003.
RED Full-bodied and deep-coloredwine with a very expansive bouquetand creamy-rich, spicy fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 2%
k10–25 yearsSecond wine: Château La Salle-de-Poujeaux
CHÂTEAU PREUILLACAOC MédocbV
Purchased in 1998 by Yvon Mau,who has sold his eponymouslynamed négociant business toFreixenet in a bid to build up aportfolio of estate properties. Maudevoted a lot of money andattention to renovating this
tasting victories. The Château Haut-Condessas is a super-selection, with100 percent new oak.
RED Lots of up-front fruit, but longand classy, with plenty of finesse.Not big and, surprisingly, notoveroaked.
gCabernet Sauvignon 20%,Merlot 70%, Petit Verdot 10%
k4–12 yearsOther wine: Château Fleur de By
CHÂTEAU ST-BONNETAOC Médoc
b
Some 130 of this important estate’s210 acres are planted with vines (53of 85 hectares). The wine ismatured in wood for 18 months,with 25 percent new oak.
RED Full-flavored wines ofpromising quality and immediatearomatic appeal.
gMerlot 50%, CabernetSauvignon 28%, Cabernet Franc 22%
k5–10 years
CHÂTEAU ST-PAULAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru BourgeoisbV
Up-and-coming vineyard piecedtogether from parcels previouslyowned by two St.-Estèphe châteaux.This wine is matured in wood for 18months, with 25 percent new oak.
RED Plump, fruit-driven reds ofgood class and finesse, with a longfinish.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k4–12 years
CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJACAOC Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
This property changed hands in1999. The wine is matured in woodfor 18 months, with 25 percent newoak (up to 100 percent for itsprestige cuvée Karolus).
RED A firm, full-flavored wine ofexcellent longevity, Sénéjac is not,however, for the faint-hearted,especially in its rather stern youthfulyears. The Karolus is bigger, richer,and more concentrated.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc14%, Petit Verdot 1%
k5–15 yearsSecond wine: Artique de Sénac
Other wine: tKarolus
CHÂTEAU SIGOGNACAOC Médoc
V
Owned by Colette Bonny, this wineis matured in wood for 12 months,with 20 percent new oak.
RED Consistently good-value,lunchtime claret of some elegance.
A new cult wine on the Bordeauxscene, it is matured in wood for 18months, with 60 percent new oak.The wine has a string of blind
80 F R A N C E
VINEYARDS THRIVING IN THE MEDOC
In Ancient Roman times this area was considered too marshy for cultivation, yet today it is one of the most prized areasunder vine in the world, envied by winemakers worldwide.
gMerlot 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon28%, Cabernet Franc 22%
k3–8 yearsSecond wine: Château La Croixdu Chevalier
CHÂTEAU SOCIANDO-MALLET
AOC Haut-Médoc Cru BourgeoisccV
This property has been making aname for itself since 1970, whenJean Gautreau raised standards tonear cru classé quality. The qualityof Sociando-Mallet has continued toincrease throughout the 1990s,when between 80 and 100 percentnew oak became the norm. Itsowners did not bother to submitwines for the 2003 reclassification,since it already achieves a higherprice than a number of cru classéwines, but it is undoubtedly at leastcru bourgeois exceptionnel inquality, if not in name.
RED These are powerfully builtwines that are rich in color andextract. Often totally dominated byvanilla oak in their youth, they arebacked up with plenty ofconcentrated cassis fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 42%, Cabernet Franc2%, Petit Verdot 1%
k10–25 yearsSecond wine: La Demoiselle deSociando-Mallet
CHÂTEAU SOUDARSAOC Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
Soudars was formed by thecombination of several parcels ofrock-strewn land that had become
overgrown with brambles until EricMiailhe took over the property in1973 and spent several yearsclearing it. The wine is fermented instainless steel, and matured in woodfor 12 to 14 months, with up to 40percent new oak.
RED Excellent, well-colored winesof good structure and accessiblefruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 44%,Merlot 54%, Cabernet Franc 1%
k5–10 yearsSecond wine: Château Marquis deCadourne
CHÂTEAU LE TEMPLEAOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois
bV
Starting to live up to its reputationin the early 1900s, when it wasknown as “Lafite of the Bas-Médoc,”this wine is matured in wood for 12months, with 22 percent new oak.
RED Increasingly lush and fruit-dominant, without losing its classic,tannin structure.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Petit Verdot 5%
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Château Bairac
Other wine: Château La Croix desSablons
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR DE BY
AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
The tower of Tour de By was oncea lighthouse. The wine is of verygood quality; it is matured in woodfor 16 months, with up to 30percent new oak.
RED These deeply colored, full-
bodied, richly flavored wines havegood spicy fruit, backed up by afirm tannic structure.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 36%, Cabernet Franc 4%
k6–12 yearsSecond wine: Château La Roque-de-By
Other wines: Château Moulin deRoque, Château Moulin de la Roque
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR-CARNET
AOC Haut-Médoc4ème Cru Classé
c
This charming, 13th-centuryminiature moated castle has a well-kept vineyard. Its wines used to belackluster, but have beentransformed by the new owner,Bernard Magez of Pape-Clément,who purchased the property in1999. The wine is now matured inwood for 12 to 18 months, with 60percent new oak.
RED Much riper, more opulent fruit,with some lush new oak in asupporting role, this wine has therichness of flavor it used to lack,with improvements noticeable fromone year to the next.
gCabernet Sauvignon 53%,Merlot 33%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 4%
k5–15 yearsSecond wine: Douves de Carnet
CHÂTEAU TOUR HAUT-CAUSSAN
AOC MédocCru Bourgeois Supérieur
cb
An up-and-coming property ownedby Philippe Courrian, who also
makes wine in Corbières. Thegrapes are all hand-harvested, andthe wine is matured in wood for 12months, with one-third new oak.
RED Rich, well-colored wines witha great concentration of fruit andnicely integrated, creamy oak.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 50%
k4–10 yearsSecond wine: Château Landotte
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR SAINT-BONNET
AOC MédoccV
Situated on fine, gravely ridges, thisproperty was known as Château laTour Saint-Bonnet-Cazenave in the19th century. This wine is maturedin wood for 18 months, with 50percent new oak.
RED Firm, full-flavored, well-colored wines of consistent quality.
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Château La Fuie-Saint-Bonnet
CHÂTEAU VERDIGNANAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
Since 1972, the property of theMiailhe family, who continue toimprove the quality. The wine isfermented in stainless steel andmatured in wood for 12 to 14months, with 30 percent new oak.
RED Medium-bodied, fruity wines,made in a soft and silky style.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 45%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k5–10 yearsSecond wine: Château Plantey-de-la-Croix
CHÂTEAU VILLEGORGEAOC Haut-Médoc
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurcV
This château was classified crubourgeois in 1932. It was purchasedby Lucien Lurton in 1973, but hethen resigned from the Syndicatand, therefore, the château was notincluded in its 1978 list, although itis superior to a few that were. Hewas succeeded by his daughter,Marie-Louise, the presentincumbent, who has continuedimproving the quality, achievingsupérieur status in the 2003reclassification. The wine is maturedin wood for 10 to 24 months, withup to 30 percent new oak.
RED Full-bodied wines, with alovely color, increasingly lush andopulent fruit, understated, creamyoak, and an increasing spicy finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 40%,Merlot 60%
k6–12 yearsSecond wine: Reflet de Villegeorge
Although St.-Estèphe can be considered the leastsexy of the Médoc’s famous four appellations, ithas an abundance of high-quality bourgeoisgrowths, which make it indubitably the “bargainbasement” of Bordeaux wines.
WITH ONLY FIVE CRUS CLASSÉS covering a mere 6 percent ofthe commune, St.-Estèphe is a rich source of undervalued clarets,where the prices paid by wine drinkers are unlikely to be outbidby wine investors. Enthusiasts rather than speculators will benefitfrom the fact that no fewer than 4 of the Médoc’s 9 crus bourgeoisexceptionnels are to be found in this commune.
CHÂTEAU COS D�ESTOURNELSt.-Estèphe might lack crus classés, but it is not lacking in class.If it had only one cru classé—the stunning, stylish Château Cosd’Estournel—St.-Estèphe would still be famous. The reputation of
this château soared after BrunoPrats took over control in 1971.Essentially, this success can beput down to his maximizingthe true potential of Cosd’Estournel’s exceptionalterroir, a superb, south-facingridge of gravel with perfect
SAINT-ESTÈPHE
Crus classés in AOC St.-Estèphe5 châteaux (by number: 8% of crusclassés in the Médoc) with 558 acres(226 ha) of vineyards (by area: 8% ofcrus classés in the Médoc and 18% ofthis AOC)
1er crus classés
None
2ème crus classés
2 châteaux (by number: 14% of 2èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 299acres (121 ha) of vineyards (by area:15% of 2ème crus classés in the Médoc)
3ème crus classés
1 château (by number: 7% of 3ème
crus classés in the Médoc) with 119acres (48 ha) of vineyards (by area:11% of 3ème crus classés in the Médoc)
4ème crus classés
1 château (by number: 10% of 4èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 111acres (45 ha) of vineyards (by area:10% of 4ème crus classés in theMédoc)
5ème crus classés
1 château (by number: 6% of 5èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 30acres (12 ha) of vineyards (by area:2% of 5ème crus classés in theMédoc)
ST.-ESTÈPHE CRU CLASSÉ STATISTICS
Appellation areaCovers parts of the commune of St.-Estèphe only
Size of commune9,284 acres (3,757 ha)
AOC area under vine3,099 acres (1,254 ha), 33% ofcommune
Surface area of crus classés
558 acres (226 ha ), 6% ofcommune, 16% of AOC
Special commentsApproximately 12.5 acres (5 ha) ofvineyards within St.-Estèphe areclassified as AOC Pauillac
ST.-ESTÈPHE PROFILE
HARVEST, CHÂTEAU COS D �ESTOURNEL
The bizarre eastern façade of this specially built winery overlooksthe vineyards. The château wasowned by perfectionist Bruno Pratsbefore it was sold to the BernardTaillan group in October 1998.
D204
D2
D2E
D2
Chenal d
e Calon
Chenal de la Calupeyre
Chenal du Lazaret
Jalle du Breuil
Gi
ro
nd
e
Ch. Pomys
Ch.Lafon-Rochet
Ch.Cos Labory
Ch. Andron-Blanquet
Ch. Cos D'Estournel
Ch. Haut-Marbuzet
Ch. Montrose
Ch. Meyney
Ch. Phélan-Ségur
Ch. Domeyne
Ch. Le Boscq
Ch. dePez
CoopérativeMarquis de
Saint-Estèphe
Ch. Calon- Ségur
Ch. de Marbuzet
Laujac
Troupian
Aillan
l'Hôpitalla Plagne MARBUZET
LEYSSAC
PEZ
ST-CORBIAN
S T - E S T È P H E
V E R T H E U I L
ST.-SEURIN-DE-CADOURNE
St-Estèphe
Cru Classé château
Other châteaux
Coopérative
Communal boundary
1km0
03/4 mile
ST. -ESTÈPHE , see also p63
Of the Haut-Médoc’s four best-knowncommunes, St.-Estèphe is the mostnortherly, although the actual AOCarea covers only part of thecommune.
FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY
HLOCATION
St.-Estèphe is the most northerlyof the four classic communes of theMédoc. It is situated 11 miles (18kilometers) south of Lesparre,bordering the Gironde.
FCLIMATE
As for the Médoc (see p.00).
EASPECT
St.-Estèphe has well-drained,well-sited, softly sloping vineyards.The southeast-facing crest of graveloverlooks Château Lafite-Rothschildin Pauillac and is relatively steep forthe Médoc.
DSOIL
The topsoil is gravelly and morefertile than in communes farthersouth, with clay subsoil exposed inparts, consisting of clay beds, stony-clay, and limestone over iron-pan.
81B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C - S A I N T - E S T È P H E
drainage. Those vineyards on heavier soil with less gravel andmore clay tend to produce more rustic wines.
MODERN ST.-ESTÈPHE Most wines from St.-Estèphe have always been well structured,with natural longevity, but they now have more lushness of fruit,which allows the wines to be accessible when relatively young. Itwas once essential to buy only the greatest vintages and wait 20years or more before drinking them. The increasing use of theMerlot grape as well as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc,and a tendency to favor vinification techniques that extract colorand fruit in preference to the harsher tannins, provide richer,fruitier, and eminently drinkable wines in most vintages.
JVITICULTURE AND
VINIFICATION
Only the red wines have the rightto the appellation in this commune.With increasing emphasis placed onthe Merlot grape, which can nowaccount for up to 50 percent of thevines cultivated in some châteaux,reduced use of vin de presse, andimproved vinification techniques,these wines are becoming far moreaccessible in less sunny years.During the vinification, all grapesmust be destalked, and duration ofskin contact averages three weeks.Maturation in cask currently variesbetween 15 and 24 months.
GGRAPE VARIETIES
Primary varieties: CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, MerlotSecondary varieties: Carmenère,Malbec, Petit Verdot
Château Lafon Rochet
Château de Pez
Château Haut Marbuzet
Château Cos Labory
Château Le Boscq
CHÂTEAU ANDRON-BLANQUET
Cru BourgeoiscV
Under the same ownership asChâteau Cos Labory, the vineyardsof this property are situated abovethe gravel crest of cru classéchâteaux that overlook ChâteauLafite-Rothschild in Pauillac. Thiswine is matured in wood for 12months, with 25 percent new oak.
RED An exceptionally well-madewine that consistently rises above itspetit château status. Fermented andmatured in cask, it has good fruitand a distinctive style.
This property should not beconfused with Château Beau-SiteHaut-Vignoble, a lesser St.-Estèphe.This wine is matured in wood for16 to 18 months, with 50 percentnew oak.
RED A stylish, medium-bodied,sometimes full-bodied, wine thatoften has an elegant finishreminiscent of violets.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 30%
k3–10 years
CHÂTEAU LE BOSCQCru Bourgeois Supérieur
cbV
This property has always producedgood wine, but quality increaseddramatically in the 1980s. It wastaken over by Dourthe-Kressman in 1995.
RED Superbly aromatic, almostexotic, full-bodied wine that iselegant and rich with the flavor ofsummer fruits, and is nicely backedup with new oak.
gCabernet Sauvignon 42%,Merlot 51%, Petit Verdot 7%
k5–12 yearsSecond wine: Héritage de Le Boscq
CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR
3ème Cru ClassécbV
From the Gallo-Roman origins ofthis château grew the community of St.-Estèphe. The first wine estatein the commune, it used to boast“Premier Cru de St.-Estèphe” on itslabel until other producers objected.This wine is matured in wood for18 months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED Full, fruity, well-structuredwine that has a creamy, rich flavor.It is of consistently good quality andimproves well in bottle.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 5%
k3–20 yearsSecond wine: Marquis de Ségur
CHÂTEAU CAPBERN GASQUETON
Cru BourgeoiscV
This property is under the sameownership as Château Calon-Ségur.The vineyards are found north andsouth of the village of St.-Estèphe.This wine is matured in wood for18 months, with 30 percent newoak.
RED Medium-weight, ripe, andfruity wine of consistent quality; it ismellowed by 24 months in wood.
Technically faultless, hand-harvestedwine produced in limited quantitiesfrom the sister château of Haut-Marbuzet. Many would rate it easilyequivalent to a cru classé. This wineis matured in wood for 18 months,with 50 per cent new oak.
RED Aromatically attractive,medium-bodied, sometimes full-bodied, wine. It is rich, ripe, andfruity, with plenty of caramel-oakand sufficient tannin to age well.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 30%
k3–10 yearsSecond wine: Château Grand-Village Capbern
CHÂTEAU COSD�ESTOURNEL2ème Cru ClassécccV
This was one of the very first super-seconds to emerge and this was theachievement of one man, BrunoPrats, although he would claim it tobe teamwork. In 1998 Prats wasforced by French tax laws to sellout to Groupe Taillan, who in 2001sold it on to Michel Reybier, aGeneva-based food manufacturer.Cos d’Estournel has no château assuch, merely a bizarre façade to thewinery with huge, elaboratelycarved oak doors that once adornedthe palace of the Sultan of Zanzibar.Bruno Prats’ son Jean-Guillaumemanages the property for Reybier,and the wine is made in the same
careful way that his fatherintroduced. This involves some ofthe wine being fermented instainless steel, but all of it ismatured in cask for 18 to 24months, with 100 percent new oakfor big years, and up to 70 percentfor lighter vintages.
RED A rich, flavorsome, andattractive wine of full body, greatclass, and distinction; without doubtthe finest wine in St.-Estèphe. It isuniquely generous for theappellation and capable of amazinglongevity, even in the poorest years.This is a complex wine with silkyfruit and great finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 40%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Les Pagodes de Cos
CHÂTEAU COS LABORY5ème Cru Classé
c
Until the late 19th century, thisproperty formed part of ChâteauCos d’Estournel. During the 1920s, itwas purchased by distant cousins ofMadame Audoy, the current owner.The wine is matured in wood for 15to 18 months, with one-third newoak.
RED These wines used to bemerely light and elegant with acertain degree of finesse, evenwhen at their best. However, recentvintages have displayed a verywelcome change to a distinctlyfuller, fruitier, and fatter style.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k5–15 yearsSecond wine: Château CharmeLabory
CHÂTEAU LE CROCK
Cru Bourgeois ExceptionnelcbV
This property is under the sameownership as Château Léoville-Poyferré of St.-Julien, and waspromoted to exceptionnel status inthe 2003 reclassification. This hand-harvested wine is matured in woodfor 18 months, with 20 percent newoak.
RED These dark-colored, substantialwines have surged in quality since1995 under the personal guidanceof Michel Rolland.
gCabernet Sauvignon 58%,Merlot 24%, Cabernet Franc12%, Petit Verdot 6%
k6–15 yearsSecond wine: Château Croix Saint-Estèphe
Other wine: Château Fatin
CHÂTEAU DOMEYNECru Bourgeois
bV
This property was not classified crubourgeois in 1932, nor was it listedby the Syndicat in 1978, but itcertainly should have been. Thiswine is matured in wood for 18months, with 40 percent new oak.
RED These are typically deep-colored, rich-flavored wines thathave an excellent marriage of fruitand oak. They are smooth and well-rounded wines that can be drunkwhile fairly young.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k3–8 years
CHÂTEAU FAGETbV
Château Faget was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but was notincluded in the Syndicat’s 1978 list.However, this coopérative-producedwine is now superior to some thatwere included. This hand-harvestedwine is matured in wood for 12months, with one-third new oak.
RED This is a well-made wine thatgives a solid mouthful of flavor, andages well.
This is one of several propertiesbelonging to Henri Duboscq. Thesewines receive 18 months in 100percent new oak, which is extremelyrare even for cru classé châteaux.
RED These full-bodied, deep-colored wines are packed with juicyfruit, backed up by supple tannin.They are marked by a generousbuttered-toast and creamy-vanillacharacter.
New equipment, 25 percent newoak casks every year, and a fairproportion of old vines combine toproduce some exciting vintages atthis property.
RED Always limpid, this medium-bodied, sometimes full-bodied, wineis rich in color and flavour, wellbalanced, and lengthy, with vanilla-oak evident on the finish.
THE WINE PRODUCERS OF
SAINT-ESTÈPHE
82 F R A N C E
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 42%, Petit Verdot 8%
k5–8 yearsSecond wine: Fief de la Haye
CHÂTEAU LAFON-ROCHET4ème Cru Classé
cV
When Guy Tesseron purchased thisvineyard, which is situated on theborders of Pauillac, in 1959, heembarked on a project to increasethe proportion of CabernetSauvignon grapes used in the wine.However, this proved to be amistake for Lafon-Rochet’s terroirand has been rectified in recentyears. The wine produced here ismatured in wood for 18 months,with up to 50 percent new oak.
RED More fruit and finesse fromthe mid-1990s onward.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k5–12 yearsSecond wine:tNumero 2
CHÂTEAU LAVILLOTTEcbV
This star-performing petit châteaugives good value. This wine ismatured in wood for 16 months,with up to 40 percent new oak.
RED These are dark-colored wineswith a deep and distinctivebouquet. Smoky, full-bodied,intense, and complex.
gCabernet Sauvignon 72%,Merlot 25%, Petit Verdot 3%
k5–12 yearsSecond wine: Château Aillan
CHÂTEAU DE MARBUZETCru Bourgeois
b
Under the same ownership as Cosd’Estournel, Marbuzet used toinclude the wines rejected from thegrand vin of that “super-second.”However, all the wine from thischâteau has been producedexclusively from its own 42-acre(17-hectare) vineyard since 1994.The wine is matured in wood for 12to 14 months in used barrels.
RED These elegant, medium-bodied, and sometimes full-bodied,wines are well balanced and havegood fruit and a supple finish.
gCabernet Sauvignon 40%,Merlot 60%
k4–10 yearsSecond wine: Château CharmeLabory
LE MARQUIS DE SAINT-ESTÈPHE
bV
This wine is produced by theconscientious Cave CoopérativeMarquis de Saint-Estèphe, whomature it in wood for 12 months,with a whopping 70 percent newoak.
RED A consistently well-made,
good-value, usually medium-bodied(although sometimes full-bodied)wine, with increasingly morenoticeable oak.
This château is consistent inmanaging to produce fine wines invirtually every vintage.
RED These wines used to be big,beefy, chunky, and chewy, andrequired at least 10 years in bottle.They have changed, and for thebetter, acquiring a silky-texturedfinesse and aging gracefully withoutso many years in bottle.
gCabernet Sauvignon 67%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 3%
k5–25 yearsSecond wine: Prieuré de Meyney
CHÂTEAUMONTROSE
2ème Cru ClasséccV
This “youngest” of the cru classévineyards, this property grew out ofan inconsequential plot of vinesretained by a Mr. Dumoulin, theformer owner of Calon-Ségur, whenhe sold that château in 1824. Thesevines were on a 12–15 acre (5–6hectare) plot of land calledEscargeon, which for some reasonhe changed to Montrose the verynext year. There are rumors aboutthe origin of this new name, but noone really knows the true story.What we do know, however, is thatby 1855, Montrose had grown to237 acres (96 hectares), asDumoulin bought and exchangedparcels of land from and with hisneighbors. Despite the newfoundimportance of Montrose, Calon-Ségur was still considered by localsto be its superior, thus there wasmuch surprise when Montrose wasclassified as a deuxième cru classé,above troisième cru Calon-Ségur.The wines are matured in wood for 19 months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED The inhibiting factor atMontrose had always been its“stemmy” tannins. A vintage ofexceptional richness and fatnesswas required to overcome theaggressive character produced bythese tannins. The excellent 1994gave me hope that this château hasstarted to harvest the grapes whenthey are tannin-ripe (see p66) andwas applying more specificmaceration techniques. Happily, my hopes were not dashed, andMontrose’s performance since themid-1990s has clearly demonstratedthat this wine is a true deuxièmecru classé.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 25%,
Cabernet Franc 10%
k8–25 yearsSecond wine:tLa Dame deMontrose
CHÂTEAU LES ORMES DE PEZ
Cru Bourgeois ExceptionnelccV
Owner Jean-Michel Cazes ofChâteau Lynch-Bages in Pauillacinstalled new stainless-steel vats in1981 and has raised the quality ofthese wines from good tosensational. Matured in wood for atleast 12 to 15 months, with 50percent new oak, this relativelycheap wine is easily equivalent to agood cru classé.
RED Dark and fruity, yet capable ofaging with a herbal complexity.
This property was purchased byLouis Roederer of Champagne in1995. The wines are fermented inwooden vats, then matured in smallcasks for 18 months, with 40percent new oak. These wines areeasily the equivalent of cru classéquality.
RED Consistently one of the bestbourgeois growths in the entireMédoc. A medium-bodied wine, ithas a rich fruit flavor and goodtannic structure, and can matureinto a sublime, cedary wine.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 44%, Cabernet Franc8%, Petit Verdot 3%
k6–20 years
CHÂTEAU PHÉLAN-SÉGURCru Bourgeois Exceptionnel
cbV
This château was purchased in 1984by its present owners, the Gardinierfamily, one year after sellingChampagnes Pommery and Lanson.In retrospect, it is quite clear to seethat there have been two steps upin quality; the first in 1988 and thesecond in 1999, with obviousconsolidation achieved during the
intervening decade, with seriousinvestment going into theinfrastructure of vineyard andwinery. Now one of the best-valuewines in the Médoc, this wine ismatured in wood for 16 months,with 50 percent new oak.
RED Increasingly stylish wines ofgood color and a certain plumpnessof fruit, without loss of true St.-Estèphe structure. Unlike most othersuccess stories in the commune, thishas not been achieved by increasingMerlot; the reverse, in fact.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k5–10 yearsSecond wine: Franck Phélan
Other wine: Croix Bonis
CHÂTEAUPOMYS
Cru BourgeoisbV
This property was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but was notincluded in the 1978 list, although itis superior to a few that were. Thishand-harvested wine is matured inwood for 15 months, with 30percent new oak.
RED Substantial wines with goodfruit and tannin balance.
The huge investments made sincethis château changed hands in 1989paid off in 2003 when it becameone of only nine crus bourgeoisexceptionnels. This wine is maturedin wood for 16 to 18 months, with50 percent new oak.
RED Consistently elegant, medium-bodied wine with good, plump,fleshy fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Cabernet Franc 10%, Merlot40%, Petit Verdot 5%
k3–7 yearsSecond wine: T de Tour de Pez
Other wines: Château les Hauts dePez, Château L’Hereteyre ChâteauHaut-Coutelin
CHÂTEAU TRONQUOY-LALANDE
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
Owned by Arlette Castéja-Texierwith active input from the Dourthe-Kressman winemaking team.
RED This wine can be dark andtannic, but as from the 1996 vintage it has displayed more fruit and finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 45%, Petit Verdot 10%
k3–7 years
83B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C - S A I N T - E S T È P H E
PAUILLACIf any Bordeaux appellation can be described as
“big, black, and beautiful,” it is Pauillac—the
commune most famous for the three premiers crus
of Latour, Lafite, and Mouton. The wine is
allowed to evolve very slowly, achieving an
astonishing degree of finesse for its weight.
PAUILLAC IS, HOWEVER, an appellation of quite surprisingcontrasts. Although it boasts three-quarters of the Médoc’spremiers crus, it also contains two-thirds of the region’scinquièmes crus. Very little lies between these two extremes, andcrus bourgeois are, therefore, the exception rather than the rule.Cabernet Sauvignon is at its most majestic in Pauillac, and whilethe much-vaunted blackcurrant character of this grape may beelusive in many clarets, it is certainly very much in evidence inPauillac. In this wine, the cassis character is always beautifullybalanced by a tannic structure.
C H Â T E AU L ATO U R
Due to radical changes in vinification techniques introduced in the 1960s, Château Latour became the most consistent
of Bordeaux’s great premiers crus classés. It produces the archetypal Pauillac wine, which is full of finesse.
Crus classés in AOC Pauillac18 châteaux (by number: 30% of crus
classés in the Médoc) with 2,080 acres(842 ha) of vineyards (by area: 30% ofcrus classés in the Médoc and 70% ofthis AOC)
1er crus classés
3 châteaux (by number: 75% of 1er
crus classés in the Médoc) with 568 acres(230 ha ) of vineyards (by area: 75% of1er crus classés in the Médoc)
2ème crus classés
2 châteaux (by number: 14% of 2ème
crus classés in the Médoc) with 222acres (90 ha) of vineyards (by area: 11%of 2ème crus classés in the Médoc)
3ème crus classés
None
4ème crus classés
1 château (by number: 10% of 4ème
crus classés in the Médoc) with 111acres (45 ha) of vineyards (by area: 10%of 4ème crus classés in the Médoc)
5ème crus classés
12 châteaux (by number: 67% of 5ème
crus classés in the Médoc) with 1,179acres (477 ha) of vineyards (by area:63% of 5ème crus classés in theMédoc)
Note: Only Margaux has more cruclassé châteaux than Pauillac, andno communal AOC has a greaterconcentration of cru classé vines.
PAUILLAC CRU CLASSÉ STATISTICS
84 F R A N C E
C AV E AU P R I V É , C H Â T E AU P I C H O N - LO N G U E V I L L E -C O M T E S S E - D E - L A L A N D E
One wall of the château’s private cellars encapsulates a winemaking history,
particularly of Bordeaux, stretching back nearly 200 years.
FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY
HLOCATION
Pauillac is sandwiched betweenSt.-Estèphe to the north and St.-Julien to the south.
FCLIMATE
As for the Médoc (see p.00
EASPECT
Pauillac consists of two large,low-lying plateaux, one to thenorthwest of the town of Pauillac,the other to the southwest.Exposure is excellent, and bothdrain down gentle slopes, eastwardto the Gironde, westward to theforest, or north and south to canalsand streams.
DSOIL
Pauillac’s two plateaux aremassive gravel beds, reaching agreater depth than any foundelsewhere in the Médoc. The water
PAU I L L AC
The town of Pauillac, the largest of the Médoc, sits on the west bank of the
Gironde. Despite its size and position, it retains a quiet, rural character.
85B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C - P A U I L L A C
Appellation areaCovers parts of the commune ofPauillac, plus 84 acres (34 ha) in St.-Sauveur, 40 acres (16 ha) in St.-Julien, 12.4 acres (5 ha) in St.-Estèphe,a nd 2.5 acres (1 ha) in Cissac
Size of commune6,274 acres (2,539 ha)
AOC area under vine2,988 acres (1,209 ha), 48% ofcommune
Surface area of crus classés
2,080 acres (842 ha), 3% of commune, 70% of AOC
PAUILLAC PROFILE
drains away before the iron-pansubsoil is reached. St.-Sauveurconsists of shallow sand over astony subsoil to the west, andgravel over iron-pan (or moregravel) in the center and south.
JVITICULTURE AND
VINIFICATION
Only red wines have the right tothe Pauillac appellation. Some vinde presse is traditionally used bymost châteaux. Skin contactduration averages between 3 and 4weeks, and maturation in caskcurrently varies between 18 and 24months.
Blessed with three premiers crus, Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton-
Rothschild in the north, and Latour to the south, Pauillac is
sandwiched between St.-Estèphe and St.-Julien.
CHÂTEAU D�ARMAILHAC5ème Cru Classé
cb
Baron Philippe de Rothschildpurchased Château Moutond’Armailhac in 1933. In 1956 herenamed it Château Mouton Baron-Philippe. In 1975 it was changed toMouton-Baronne-Philippe in honorof the baron’s late wife. In 1991 itreverted to d’Armailhac, but withoutthe Mouton tag because the baronbelieved the wine to be in dangerof assuming second wine status dueto the overwhelming prestige ofMouton-Rothschild. This propertyborders that of Mouton, and one ofBaron Philippe’s reasons foracquiring it was to provide aneasier, more impressive access tothe famous premier cru. The wines,which are matured in wood for 16months, with 25 percent new oak,are produced with the same careand consideration. Despite thisattention, I have criticized the“austere, light, and attenuated style”of Château d’Armailhac in the past,which “proves that even moneycannot buy terroir,” but within limitsimprovements can always be made,and by tweaking harvesting andvinification techniques, ownersBaron Philippe de Rothschild S.A.produced the greatest wine thisproperty has ever known in 2000.That was an extraordinary vintage,but the style shift and giant stride inquality continued in 2001, 2002, and2003.
RED Since 2000, much ripertannins, and a more supplestructure has given this wine morevelvety fruit than previous vintageshad established. The start of a newera.
gCabernet Sauvignon 52%,Merlot 26%, Cabernet Franc20%, Petit Verdot 2%
k6–15 years
CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY5ème Cru Classé
cbV
This is a château that responds wellto sunny years and producesunderrated and undervalued wine.
The 1985 was possibly the bestbargain in Bordeaux, and the 1986is probably even better. This wine ismatured in wood for 18 months,with 60 percent new oak.
RED This wine has sometimes beenrustic and too assertive in the past,but now shows its class with fine,succulent fruit supported by a ripetannic structure and a complexcreamy-oak aftertaste.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc3%, Petit Verdot 2%
k10–25 yearsSecond wine: Château Haut-BagesMonpelou
CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON5ème Cru Classé
c
CHÂTEAU COLOMBIER-MONPELOU
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
In the third edition of Bordeauxand its Wines, published in 1874,this property was described as aquatrième cru. Of course, it wasnever classified as such, but itsrecent cru bourgeois supérieurachievement is about right. This wine is matured in wood for 16 months, with 40 percent new oak.
RED Rich, spicy, fruit with fineCabernet characteristics, backed upby good, ripe tannic structure andvanilla-oaky undertones.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k5–12 yearsOther wines: Château GrandCanyon, Château Pey la Rose,Château Coubersant, Château dePuy la Rose
CHÂTEAU CORDEILLAN-BAGES
c
Jean-Michel Cazes of ChâteauLynch-Bages was the driving force behind the group of growers from the Médoc whorenovated Château de Cordeillan,turning it into an extensivecomplex comprising a hotel,restaurant, and wine school. With only a very small productionfrom just five acres of vineyard this hand-harvestedwine that is produced by the Lynch-Bages winemaking team, is matured in wood for up to 15 months, with a massive100 percent new oak.
RED As dark and as dense as might be expected from a wine produced with the Lynch-Bages influence, with smoky oak, tobacco plant, andviolet aromas weaving their way through the chocolaty Cabernet fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc 10%
k3–8 years
THE WINE PRODUCERS OF
PAUILLAC
86 F R A N C E
This property was purchased byBaron Philippe de Rothschild in1970. After more than a decade of investment and quite a fewdisappointing vintages along theway, it came good in 1981,achieved sensational quality in 1982,and now consistently performs wellabove its classification. This wine,which is matured in wood for 18months with one-third new oak, isone worth watching.
RED A deep-colored, medium-bodied, sometimes full-bodied, winewith cassis-cum-spicy-oak aromasand rich berry flavors well balancedby ripe acidity.
Under the same ownership asChâteau Rauzan-Gassies of Margaux,and situated on the Bages plateau,Croizet-Bages is a classic exampleof a “château with no château.” Its wine is matured in wood for 18 months and although notunattractive, it lacks class and rarelyexcites. Improvements startedslowly in the mid-1990s, thenstepped up a gear at the turn of the millennium.
RED Not one of the most deeplycolored Pauillacs, this medium-bodied wine has always been easy-drinking, but has been more stylishsince 1999, gaining both in gravitasand finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 37%,Cabernet Franc 30%, Merlot30%, Malbec and Petit Verdot3%
k6–12 yearsSecond wine: Enclos de Moncabon
CHÂTEAU DUHART-MILON-ROTHSCHILD
4ème Cru Classécb
Another “château with no château,”Duhart-Milon was purchased by theLafite branch of the Rothschildfamily in 1962. Its wines prior tothis date were almost entirely PetitVerdot, and so only in abnormallyhot years did it excel with this late-ripening grape, which istraditionally cultivated for its acidity.Interestingly, in the near-tropicalheat of 1947, Duhart-Milon managedto produce a wine that manyconsidered to be the best of thevintage. The Rothschilds expandedthese vineyards bordering Lafite andreplanted them with the correctcombination of varieties to suit theterroir. In 1994 Charles Chevalierarrived, and since 1996 he hasmoved these wines up a gear. Thewine is matured for at least 18months in wood, with 50 percentnew oak.
RED These wines are elegantlyperfumed, deliciously rich in
creamy-oaky fruit, and haveexceptional balance and finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 80%,Merlot 20%
k8–16 yearsSecond wine: Moulin de Duhart
CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-MILON
Cru Bourgeois
A “château with no château,” LaFleur-Milon produces a wineaccumulated from various parcels of vines bordering such prestigiousproperties as Lafite, Mouton, andDuhart-Milon. This wine is maturedin wood for 18 months, with one-third new oak.
RED A consistently firm, solid, and decent kind of wine, whichsomehow fails to live up to thefavored origins of its vines.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Cabernet Franc 20%, Merlot35%
This growth was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but was notincluded in the Syndicat’s 1978 list,although it is superior to a few thatwere, and achieved due recognitionin the 2003 reclassification. Many ofthe vines are in excess of 80 yearsold, with an average age of 50 yearsfor the entire 50-acre (20-hectare)vineyard. This hand-harvested wineis matured in wood for 18 months,with 30 percent new oak. Great-value Pauillac.
RED This typical Pauillac has a deep, almost opaque color, an intense cassis, cigar-box, andcedarwood bouquet, a concentratedspicy, fruit flavor with creamy-oakundertones, and a long finish.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc 15%, Malbec and Petit Verdot 5%
k6–15 yearsOther wines: Château Haut-Pauillac, Château Padarnac,Château Montgrand-Milon, Château Tour du Roc-Milon,Pauillac
CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY-DUCASSE
5ème Cru ClassécbV
Under the same owners as ChâteauRayne-Vigneau in Sauternes, thisproperty produces an undervaluedwine that comes from various plotsscattered across half the commune.One of the best value, improvingcru classé wines available, this wineis matured in wood for 18 to 24months, with up to 40 percent
new oak.
RED Well-balanced, relatively early-drinking, medium-bodied,sometimes full-bodied, wine ofclassic Pauillac cassis character and more suppleness than is usualfor this commune.
gCabernet Sauvignon 61%,Merlot 39%
k5–10 yearsSecond wine: Prélude à Grand-Puy Ducasse
Other wine: Château Artigues-Arnaud
CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE
5ème Cru ClasséccV
CHÂTEAU HAUT-BATAILLEY
5ème Cru ClassécV
This property is under the sameownership as châteaux Grand-Puy-Lacoste and, in St.-Julien, Ducru-Beaucaillou. When the Borie familypurchased Château Batailley in1942, this part of the vineyard was given to one son, while thebulk of the property, including thechâteau itself, was given to theother. The wine is matured in wood for 20 months, with one-third new oak.
RED Haut-Batailley is well-coloredand medium-bodied and showsmore elegance and finesse thanBatailley, although it can lack thelatter’s fullness of fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc 10%
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Château La Tourl’Aspic
Other wine: Château La Couronne
CHÂTEAU LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD
1er Cru Classéccc
the first decade of the newmillennium, Lafite is arguably thebest performing of all premiers crus.This hand-harvested wine ismatured in wood for 20 months,with 100 percent new oak.
RED Not the biggest of the premierscrus, but Lafite is neverthelesstextbook stuff: a rich delicacy ofspicy fruit flavors, continuouslyunfolding, supported by an array ofcreamy-oak and ripe tannins; a winewith incomparable finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc3%, Petit Verdot 2%
k25–50 yearsSecond wine: tCarruades deLafite
Other wine: Moulin des Carruades
CHÂTEAU LATOUR1er Cru Classéccc
The Pearson Group (which nowowns the publisher of this book)was accused by the French ofturning a Bordeaux premier cru intoa dairy when temperature-controlled, stainless-steel vats wereinstalled in 1964. These Frenchcritics conveniently ignored the factthat Château Haut-Brion had donethe same three years earlier. Pearsonactually owned just over half ofLatour at the time and Harveys ofBristol owned a quarter. Togetherthey paid less than three milliondollars for almost 80 percent of thispremier cru. It was a bargain, foralthough they invested heavily inrenovating the vineyards andwinery, Allied-Lyons (owners ofHarvey’s) paid almost $110 millionin 1989 for Pearson’s share, valuingthe entire property at $180 million.Allied-Lyons lost out, however,when in 1993 they needed toliquidate various shareholdings tofinance takeovers and sold Latour toFrançois Pinault, the Frenchindustrialist, for $130 million. Pinaultappointed Frédéric Engerer, agraduate of one of France’s topbusiness schools, as the new youngpresident of Latour. He hasrevolutionized working practices inboth the vineyard and winery andwith Frédéric Ardouin, his new,even younger winemaker at hisside, the change in gear at Latourpromised to be as dramatic as itwas at Margaux. This hand-harvested wine is matured in woodfor 18 months, with 100 percentnew oak.
RED Despite its close proximity tothe neighboring commune of St.-Julien, Latour is the archetypalPauillac. Its ink-black coloraccurately reflects the immensestructure and hugely concentratedflavor of this wine. If Lafite is theultimate example of finesse, thenLatour is the ideal illustration ofhow massive a wine can be whilestill retaining great finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Francand Petit Verdot 5%
87B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C - P A U I L L A C
Under the same ownership asChâteau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Grand-Puy-Lacoste is going from strengthto strength under the skillfulguidance of François-Xavier Borie.The wine is matured in wood for 18 months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED Deep-colored with complexcassis, cigar-box spice, and vanillabouquet, with lots of fruit, length,and finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 25%
k10–20 yearsSecond wine: Lacoste-Borie
CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAGES-LIBÉRAL
5ème Cru Classéc
Under the same ownership as thebourgeois growth of ChâteauChasse-Spleen in Moulis and theexcellent unclassified Château laGurgue in Margaux, this dynamicproperty is currently producingsensational wines. They are matured for 16 months in wood,with up to 40 percent new oak.
RED Dark, full-bodied wines with masses of concentrated spicy-cassis fruit, great tannic structure,and ripe, vanilla oak. In a word—complete.
gCabernet Sauvignon 80%,Merlot 17%, Petit Verdot 3%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Chapelle de Bages
Since 1994 this famous château, thevineyard of which includes a smallplot in St.-Estèphe, has been runalong traditional lines and withfastidious care by Charles Chevalierfor Baron Eric of the French branchof the Rothschilds. The St.-Estèpheportion of the Lafite vineyard isallowed to bear the Pauillacappellation, having been part of theLafite-Rothschild estate for severalhundred years. A change of styleoccurred in the mid-1970s, whenthe decision was made to give thewines less time in cask, but underChevalier they have gone intohyperdrive and are often the verybest of the premiers crus. Well into
RED This temptress is the ChâteauMargaux of Pauillac. It is silky-textured, beautifully balanced, andseductive. A wine of great finesse,even in humble vintages.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc12%, Petit Verdot 8%
k10–30 yearsSecond wine: tRéserve de laComtesse
Other wines: Les Gartieux
CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET
5ème Cru Classécb
The reputation of this château hassuffered in recent decades, butmany thought the situation wouldbe reversed when Guy Tesseronpurchased the property in 1975. The1985 vintage gave a glimmer ofhope, but it was not until 1995 thatthe breakthrough occurred, and the1998 vintage is nothing less thanoutstanding. Definitely one towatch, this hand-harvested wine ismatured in wood for 15 to 20months, with 60 percent new oak.
RED Since the mid-1990s, thesewines have been fruity and gracefulwith a rich, smooth, oaky touch.
cVThis growth was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but was not inthe Syndicat’s 1978 list, although itis superior to a few that were.
RED This wine has bags ofblackcurranty fruit, yet retains thecharacteristic Pauillac structure andfirm finish. The superb 1985 is notunlike a “mini-Mouton.”
Rothschild and Pontet-Canet. Mostof its exported production goes toBelgium. It is matured in wood for18 months, with 50 percent newoak. Wine rejected for the grandvin is blended into the wine ofChâteau Belle Rose, a cru bourgeoisunder the same ownership.
RED Full, firm, traditional style ofPauillac that is slow-maturing andlong-lasting.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k15–40 yearsSecond wine: Château Haut-Pardanac
CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE BARONPICHON-LONGUEVILLE
2ème Cru Classéccb
The smaller of the two Pichonvineyards and until very recentlythe less inspiring, although manyexperts reckoned the terroir ofPichon-Baron to be intrinsicallysuperior to that of its neighbor, thestar-performing Pichon-Comtesse.Indeed, 10 years ago, I evensuggested that Madame deLencquesaing should buy thischâteau and cast her seeminglyirresistible spell on what wouldinevitably be the still greater terroirof the two properties combined.Whether she had such an ambition,or even the cash to consider it,AXA-Millesimes got there first, andhas been remarkably successful atconjuring the most incrediblequality from Pichon-Baron.Essentially by reducing CabernetSauvignon in favor of Merlot andalmost tripling the amount of newoak used, AXA has ensured thatPichon-Baron now lives up to itspotential. The wine is matured inwood for 15 to 18 months, with 80percent new oak.
RED Intensely colored, full-bodiedwine with concentrated spicy-cassisfruit backed up by supple tannins,which are rich and heady withsmoky-creamy oak and complexity.True super-second quality.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc4%, Petit Verdot 1%
There is a limit to the quality of anywine and this is determined by thepotential quality of its grapes. But atPichon-Comtesse (as it is known),the formidable Madame deLencquesaing demands themaximum from her terroir—andconsistently gets it. The wine ismatured in wood for 20 months,with 50 percent new oak.
amount of new oak Lynch-Moussasused to receive, it has madesignificantly better wines since themid-1990s.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 25%
k4–8 yearsSecond wine: Château Haut-Madrac
CHÂTEAU MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD
1er Cru Classéccc
The famous case of the only wineever to be officially reclassifiedsince 1855, Baron Philippe deRothschild’s plight ended withMouton’s status being justly raisedto premier cru in 1973. Throughpromotion of Mouton’s uniquecharacter, he was probablyresponsible for elevating theCabernet Sauvignon grape to itspresent high profile. Part of hiscampaign to keep this château inthe headlines was the introductionof a specially commissionedpainting for the label of each newvintage. The hand-harvested wine ismatured in wood for up to 22months, with 100 percent new oak.
RED It is difficult to describe thiswine without using the samedescriptive terms as those used forLatour, but perhaps the color ofMouton reminds one more ofdamsons and the underlyingcharacter is more herbal, sometimeseven minty. And although it agesjust as well as Latour, it becomesaccessible slightly earlier.
gCabernet Sauvignon 77%,Merlot 11%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 2%
k12–60 yearsSecond wine: Le Petit Mouton deMouton-Rothschild
Other wines: Aile d’Argent(another rare “Médoc” white)
CHÂTEAU PEDESCLAUX5ème Cru Classé
Little-seen cru classé produced fromtwo very well-situated plots ofvines, one bordering Lynch-Bages,the other between Mouton-
This château is sited on the edge ofthe Bages plateau, a little way outof Pauillac. It is on the southernfringe of the small town of Bages.Jean-Michel Cazes produces winesthat some people describe as “poorman’s Latour (or Mouton).” Well,that cannot be such a bad thing, butif I were rich, I would drink asmany cinquièmes crus from thischâteau as premiers crus fromelsewhere. No expense was sparedin building the new vinification andstorage facilities at this château, andsince 1980 the successes in off-vintages have been extraordinary,making it more consistent thansome deuxièmes crus. This hand-harvested wine is matured in woodfor 12 to 15 months, with 50percent new oak.
RED An intensely deep purple-colored wine of seductive characterthat is packed with fruit and hasobvious class. It has a degree ofcomplexity on the nose, a rich,plummy flavor, supple tanninstructure, and a spicy, blackcurrantand vanilla aftertaste.
Other wine: Blanc de Lynch-Bages(rare “Médoc” white wine)
CHÂTEAU LYNCH-MOUSSAS
5ème Cru Classéb
Owned by Emile Castéja of Borie-Manoux, this property has beenrenovated and the wines could wellimprove. The wine is matured inwood for 18 months, with 60percent new oak.
RED After a false start in the mid-1980s, when an exceptionally stylish1985 turned out to be exactly that(an exception), this châteaucontinued to produce light, ratherinsubstantial wines of no specificcharacter or quality, but with betterselection, riper fruit, less time incask, and more than twice the
The commune’s fame is disproportionate to itssize, since it is smaller than any of the other threeclassic Médoc appellations—St.-Estèphe, Pauillac,or Margaux.
ST.-JULIEN HAS NO PREMIERS CRUS, nor cinquièmes crus,although some châteaux sometimes produce wines that areundeniably of premier cru quality. The concentration of its 11crus classés in the middle of the classification is St.-Julien’s realstrength, enabling this commune justly to claim that it is the mostconsistent of the Médoc appellations; these quintessential claretshave a vivid color, elegant fruit, superb balance, and great finesse.
It is perhaps surprising that wines from as far as 40 acres (16hectares) inside St.-Julien’s borders may be classified as AOCPauillac, particularly in view of the perceived difference in stylebetween these appellations. This illustrates the “gray area” thatexists when communal boundaries overlap the historical bordersof great wine estates, and highlights the existence and importanceof blending, even in a region reputed for its single-vineyardwines. We should not be too pedantic about communal differencesof style: if these borders of the Médoc followed local history,Château Latour, the most famous château of Pauillac, would todaybe in St.-Julien—and that makes me wonder how the wines of thiscommune might be described under such circumstances?
FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY
HLOCATION
St.-Julien lies in the center ofthe Haut-Médoc, 2.5 miles (4kilometers) south of Pauillac.
FCLIMATE
As for the Médoc (see p70).
EASPECT
The gravel crest of St.-Julienslopes almost imperceptiblyeastward toward the village anddrains into the Gironde.
DSOIL
Fine, gravel topsoil of good-sized pebbles in vineyards withinsight of the Gironde. Farther inland,the particle size decreases and thesoil begins to mix with sandy loess.
SAINT-JULIEN
ST. - JUL IEN-BEYCHEVELLE
The Médoc’s most consistent appellation has two smallvillages as its major centers, St.-Julien-Beychevelle itselfand, to the south, Beychevelle.
Gi
ro
nd
e
Ruisseau
Juillac
Jalle du Nord
Jalle du Sud
BEYCHEVELLE
St-Julien-Beychevelle
Ch. TalbotCh. Leóville-
Barton
Ch. Leóville-Poyferré
Ch. Leóville-Las Cases
Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou
Ch. Gloria
Ch. Langoa-Barton
Ch. BeychevelleCh. Branaire-
DucruCh. Gruaud-Larose
Ch. St. Pierre
Ch. Lagrange
Ch. Camensac
Ch. Belgrave
le Bordieu
la Mouline
S T - J U L I E N
ST-LAURENT
CUSSAC
PAUILLAC
D101E
D101
D2
Cru Classé châteauOther châteauxCommunal boundary
1km0
03/4 mile
ST- JUL IEN, see also p63
St.-Julien lies south ofPauillac in the center ofthe Médoc. It has manydistinguished châteaux.
89S A I N T - J U L I E N
Appellation areaCovers part of the commune of St.-Julien only
Size of commune3,840 acres (1,554 ha)
AOC area under vine2,246 acres (909 ha), 59% of commune
Surface area of crus classés
1,552 acres (628 ha), 40% ofcommune, 68 of AOC
Special commentsSome 40 acres (16 ha) of St.-Julien are classified as AOC Pauillac
ST.-JULIEN PROFILE
Crus classés in AOC St.-Julien11 châteaux (by number: 18% of crusclassés in the Médoc) with 1,552 acres(628 ha) of vineyards (by area: 22% ofcrus classés in the Médoc and 68% ofthis AOC)
1er crus classés
None
2ème crus classés
5 châteaux (by number: 36% of 2èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 786 acres(318 ha) of vineyards (by area: 40% of2ème crus classés in the Médoc)
3ème crus classés
2 châteaux (by number: 14% of 3èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 170acres (69 ha) of vineyards (by area:16% of 3ème crus classés in theMédoc)
4ème crus classés
4 châteaux (by number: 40% of 4èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 596acres (241 ha) of vineyards (by area:51% of 4ème crus classés in the Médoc)
5ème crus classés
None
ST.-JULIEN CRU CLASSÉ STATISTICS
The subsoil consists of iron-pan,marl, and gravel.
JVITICULTURE &
VINIFICATION
Only red wines have the right tothe appellation. All grapes must bedestalked. Some vin de presse maybe used according to the needs ofthe vintage. Skin contact durationaverages 2 to 3 weeks and mostchâteaux allow 18 to 22 months’maturation in cask.
GGRAPE VARIETIES
Primary varieties: CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, MerlotSecondary varieties: Carmenère,Malbec, Petit Verdot
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
Château Talbot
Château Lagrange
Château Gruaud-Larose
Château Langoa-Barton
Château Beychevelle
CHÂTEAU BEYCHEVELLE4ème Cru Classé
cc
The immaculate and colorfulgardens of this château never fail tocatch the breath of passers-by.Beychevelle also boasts one of themost famous legends of Bordeaux:its name is said to be a corruptionof “basse-voile,” the command to“lower sail.” This arose because theDuc d’Épernon, a former ownerwho was also an admiral of France,apparently required the ships thatpassed through the Gironde tolower their sails in respect. His wifewould then wave her kerchief inreply. This story, however, is nottrue. Épernon actually held the titleof Baron de Beychevelle prior tobeing made the Amiral de Valette,and did not actually live atBeychevelle. I prefer the story ofthe sailors who lowered their pantsand revealed their sterns, whichshocked the duchess but made herchildren laugh. The wines arematured in wood for 20 monthswith 40 percent new oak.
RED Medium- to full-bodied winesof good color, ripe fruit, and anelegant oak and tannin structure.They can be quite fat in big years.
gCabernet Sauvignon 59%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc8%, Petit Verdot 3%
k12–20 yearsSecond wine:tRéserve del’Amiral
Other wine: Les Brulières deBeychevelle
CHÂTEAU BRANAIRE-DUCRU
4ème Cru ClassécV
The vineyards of this château aresituated farther inland than those ofBeychevelle and Ducru-Beaucaillouand its soil contains more clay andiron-pan than theirs, so the winehere is fuller and can be assertive,although never austere. It ismatured in wood for 18 months,with up to 50 percent new oak, andis remarkably consistent.
RED This is a quite full-bodiedwine, which is richly flavored andcan show a certain chocolatecharacter in big years. It has adistinctive bouquet that sets it apartfrom other St.-Juliens.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k12–25 yearsSecond wine: Duluc
CHÂTEAU LA BRIDANECru Bourgeois
The owners of this property havemaintained a vineyard here sincethe 14th century.
RED Attractive, fruity, medium-
bodied wine that is easy to drink.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 45%
k3–6 years
CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU
2ème Cru Classéccb
One of the super-seconds, thequality of this classic St.-Julienchâteau, the flagship property of theBorie empire, is both legendary andinimitable. In both good years andbad it remains remarkably consistentand, although relatively expensive,the price fetched falls short of thosedemanded by premiers crus, makingit a relative bargain. The wine ismatured in wood for 20 months,with 50 percent new oak.
RED This wine has a fine, deepcolor that can belie its deft eleganceof style. There is richness of fruit,complex spiciness of oak, greatfinesse, and exquisite balance.
This property is under the sameownership as Château Plantey inPauillac and Château laCommanderie in St.-Estèphe.
RED Du Glana is normally anunpretentious and medium-weightwine, but it excels in really hotyears, when it can be deliciouslyripe and juicy.
gCabernet Sauvignon 68%,Merlot 25%, Petit Verdot 5%,Cabernet Franc 2%
k3–6 years
CHÂTEAU GLORIAc
Gloria excites opposite passions inwine drinkers: some consider it theequal of several cru classé wines—even superior in some cases—whileothers believe it earns anexaggerated price based on thereputation of merely a handful ofvintages. Certainly the owners sawnothing to be gained by entering
this wine for consideration in the2003 reclassification, although itshould have easily made crubourgeois supérieur status had theydone so. The wine is matured inwood for 12 months, with 40percent new oak.
RED A deep plum-colored, full-bodied wine with masses of fruit and a rich, exuberantcharacter.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k12–30 yearsSecond wine: Peymartin
Other wine: Haut-Beychevelle-Gloria
CHÂTEAU GRUAUD-LAROSE
2ème Cru ClasséccV
is made at Château Terrey-Gros-Caillou by Henri Pradère, the ownerof both properties.
RED This is a silky-soft, rich, andsucculent wine of excellent quality.This great-value wine is easilyequivalent to cru classé quality.
gCabernet Franc and CabernetSauvignon 70%, Merlot 25%,Petit Verdot 5%
k7–15 years
CHÂTEAU DELACOUFOURQUE
This tiny 3-acre (1.25-hectare)vineyard is mentioned not because of its past performance but because it is unique inBordeaux in being a 100 percentCabernet Franc varietal, and itshould be preserved.
RED This wine is sold in bulk asgeneric St.-Julien, which makes itimpossible to make generalizationsabout its character.
gCabernet Franc 100%
CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE3ème Cru ClasséccbV
When the Ban de Vendanges washeld at this Japanese-owned château in 1986, everyone realizedthat the Japanese were not simplycontent to apply state-of-the-arttechnology; they seriously intendedto make Lagrange the best-qualitywine in St.-Julien. They could very well succeed in this ambition.The formidable Bordeaux oenologist Professor Peynaud hasdubbed Lagrange a “dream estate,”and describes its vinification center as “unlike any other in thewhole of Bordeaux.” Each vat is,according to Peynaud, a“winemaking laboratory.” The wine spends 18 months in wood,with up to 60 percent new oak.
RED A deeply colored wine withintense spicy-fruit aromas. It is full-bodied, silky-textured, and rich, with an exquisite balance and finish.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 28%, Cabernet Francand Petit Verdot 7%
k8–25 yearsSecond wine:tLes Fiefs deLagrange
CHÂTEAU LALANDE-BORIEcV
Under the same ownership as theillustrious Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Lalande-Borie is aninexpensive introduction to thewines of St.-Julien.
RED These are well-colored wines, dominated by rich,blackcurranty Cabernet Sauvignonflavors. Some vintages are fat andjuicy, while others are more
THE WINE PRODUCERS OF
SAINT-JULIEN
90 F R A N C E
This large property producesconsistently great wines of a farmore solid structure than most otherSt.-Julien wines. Anyone who hastasted the supposedly mediocre1980 Sarget de Gruaud-Larose(made from the wines rejected fromthe grand vin) will realize the truepotential of Château Gruaud-Larosein any year. If anything, the qualityof Gruaud-Larose is still improving.
RED Full-bodied, rich, and plummywine with masses of fruit. Its spicyblackcurrant flavor is supported bya structure of ripe tannins.
Other wines: La Roseraie deGruaud-Larose, Chevalier deGruaud-Larose
CHÂTEAU HORTEVIEcbV
There is no château as such on thisproperty. This tiny vineyard’s wine
ethereal and tannic.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot25%, Cabernet Franc 10%
k5–10 years
CHÂTEAU LANGOA-BARTON
3ème Cru ClassécV
This beautiful château was knownas Pontet-Langlois until 1821, when it was purchased by HughBarton, grandson of “French Tom”Barton, the founder of Bordeauxnégociant Barton & Guestier, and is now run by Anthony Barton.Both Langoa-Barton and Léoville-Barton are made here using verytraditional techniques. The wine ismatured in wood for 24 months,with a minimum of one-third new oak.
RED Attractive, easy-drinking winewith good fruit and acidity. It islighter than the Léoville and cansometimes taste a little rustic incomparison, but has gained adegree of extra elegance and finesse in recent years.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc8%, Petit Verdot 2%
k10–25 yearsSecond wine:tLady Langoa (a blend of Langoa-Barton andLéoville-Barton formerly sold simply as “St.-Julien”)
CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-BARTON
2ème Cru ClasséccbV
A quarter of the original Léovilleestate was sold to Hugh Barton in1826, but the château remained inthe hands of the Léoville estate andis now called Château Léoville-LasCases (see below). This wine ismade by Anthony Barton at Langoa-Barton (see above). It is matured inwood for 24 months, with aminimum of one-third new oak.Although it is the better of the twoBarton estates, it has beenconsidered significantly beneath thestandard set by Léoville-Las Cases—since the late 1980s, however, it hasperformed equally well. A greatchâteau in ascendancy.
RED Excellent wines of greatfinesse and breeding; they aredarker, deeper, and richer than theLangoa-Barton, which is itself ofvery good quality. With maturity, acertain cedarwood complexitydevelops in this wine and graduallyoverwhelms its youthful cassis andvanilla character.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc8%, Petit Verdot 2%
k15–30 yearsSecond wine:tLady Langoa (ablend of Langoa-Barton andLéoville-Barton formerly sold simplyas “St.-Julien”)
CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-LAS CASES
2ème Cru Classéccb
The label reads “Grand Vin deLéoville du Marquis de Las Cases,”although this wine is commonlyreferred to as “Château Léoville-LasCases.” This estate represents thelargest portion of the originalLéoville estate. This is a great wine,and it certainly qualifies as one ofthe super-seconds, while “Clos duMarquis” is one of the finest secondwines available and probably thebest value St.-Julien. The grand vinspends 18 months in wood, with 50percent new oak.
RED This dark, damson-colored,full-bodied, and intensely flavoredwine is complex, classy, andaromatically stunning. A skillfulamalgam of power and finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 19%, Cabernet Franc13%, Petit Verdot 3%
k15–35 yearsSecond wine:tClos du Marquis
Other wines: Domaine deBigarnon
CHATEAU LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ
2ème Cru Classécb
This property once formed a quarterof the original Léoville estate, andprobably suffers from beingcompared to the other twochâteaux, whose properties werealso part of Léoville—Léoville-Barton and Léoville-Las Cases. Yetin the context of St.-Julien as awhole, it fares very well, and since
1982 it has had some extraordinarysuccesses. Since the involvement ofMichel Rolland from the mid-1990s,quality has gone up another notch.Wine is matured in wood for 18months, with one-third new oak.
RED This wine has always beentannic, but is now much fuller infruit, richer in flavor, and darker incolor, with oaky nuances.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k12–25 yearsSecond wine: Moulin-Riche
CHÂTEAU MOULIN-DE-LA-ROSE
Cru Bourgeois SupérieurbV
This vineyard is well situated, beingsurrounded by crus classés onvirtually all sides. Its wine isfermented in stainless steel andaged in cask for 18 months, with 25 percent new oak.
RED This attractively aromatic wineis unusually concentrated and firmfor a minor St.-Julien, but roundsout well after a few years in bottle.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 25%, Petit Verdot 8%,Cabernet Franc 2%
k6–12 years
CHÂTEAU ST.-PIERRE
4ème Cru ClassécbV
This property was bought in 1982by Henri Martin, who owns thebourgeois growth Château Gloria.The wine is matured in wood forbetween 18 and 20 months, with 50percent new oak.
RED Once an astringent, coarsewine; now ripe, fat, and full ofcedarwood, spice, and fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc 10%
k8–25 yearsSecond wine: Saint-Louis-le-Bosq
Other wine: Clos d’Uza
CHÂTEAU TALBOT4ème Cru Classé
cbV
Named after the EnglishCommander who fell at the Battle of Castillon in 1453, this propertyremains under Cordier familyownership, while its sister châteauGruaud-Larose now belongs toGroupe Taillan. To contrast the style
of these two St.-Juliens is justifiable,but to compare their quality is not:Château Talbot is a great wine andcloser to the style of a classic St.-Julien, but intrinsically it does nothave the quality nor the consistencyof Château Gruaud-Larose. Talbot ismatured in wood for between 15and 18 months, with one-third new oak.
RED A graceful wine, medium-bodied, with elegant fruit, gentlystructured by ripe oak tannins andcapable of considerable finesse.
This establishment is under thesame ownership as ChâteauHortevie (whose wine it alsomakes), and is itself a top-performing property.
RED This beautifully colored,medium- to full-bodied wine alwayshas rich fruit and is often equivalentto a good cru classé.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 30%, Petit Verdot 5%
k5–12 years
CHÂTEAU TEYNACCru Bourgeois Supérieur
bV
This fine gravel vineyard onceformed part of cru classé ChâteauSaint-Pierre.
RED Well-balanced, medium- tofull-bodied wine with good spiceand a firm tannin structure.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 35%
k6–10 years
91B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C - S A I N T - J U L I E N
Ile Vincent
Pont d'Issan
Grange Neuve
Bern
les TroisMoulins
Cambon la Pelouse
le Gravier
le Comte
Linas
le Pys
Ligondras
Benqueyre
Jean Faure
Lagunegrand
VireFougasse
le Pez
Soussans
Grand Soussans
MarsacTayac
le Pian-Médoc
Bertranot
Paloumey
la Prade
Pont de Labarde
Ch. Pavail-de-Luze
Ch. Tayac
Ch. la Tour de Mons
Ch. Marsac-Séguineau
Ch. Labégorce
Ch. d'Issan
Ch. Palmer
Ch. Rauzan-Segla
Ch.Lascombes
Ch. Martinens
Ch. Cantenac-Brown
Ch. Brane-Cantenac
Ch. Monbrison
Ch. du Tertre
Ch. Giscours
Ch. d'Angludet
Ch. Cantemerle
Ch. LaLagune
Ch. Dauzac
Ch. Siran
Ch. DesmirailCh.Boyd-Cantenac
Ch. Pouget
Ch. Kirwan
Ch. PrieuréLichine
Ch.Rausan-Gassies
Ch. Malescot St. Exupéry
Ch. Marquis deTerme
Ch. FerrièresCh. Durfort-Vivens
Ch. MargauxCh. Canuet
Ch. Marquis d'Alesme-Becker
ARSAC
LABARDEMACAU
CANTENAC
Margaux
Gi r
on
de
Laurina
Mou
linat
Maqueline
IleCazeau
IleMargaux
SOUSSANSMARGAUX
C A N T E N A C
LABARDE
LE PIAN-MÉDOC
A R S A C
LUDON-MÉDOC
D210E
D211
D2
D211
D208
D208
D1
D105
D2
D209
D2
Cru Classé château
Other châteaux
Communal boundary
1 2 3 km0
0 2 miles1
MARGAUXSituated in the south of the Médoc district, Margauxis the most famous of all Bordeaux appellations.While it bathes in the reflected glory of its name-sake premier cru, it is also the largest and leastconsistent of the four classic Médoc appellations.
WHILE THE OTHER THREE great Médoc AOCs—St.-Estèphe,Pauillac, and St.-Julien—are connected in one unbroken chain ofvineyards, Margaux stands alone to the south, with its vinesspread across five communes—Labarde, Arsac, and Cantenac tothe south, Margaux in the center, and Soussans to the north.Margaux and Cantenac are the most important communes and, ofcourse, Margaux contains the premier cru of Château Margauxitself. Cantenac has a slightly larger area under vine and no fewerthan eight classified growths, including the star-performingChâteau Palmer, which was partly owned by the late Peter Sichel.
Margaux and Pauillac are the only appellations in the Médocwith premier cru vineyards, but only Margaux can boast vineyardsin all five categories of the classification. It also has more cruclassé châteaux than any other Médoc appellation, including animpressive total of 10 troisièmes crus.
FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY
HLOCATION
In the center of the Haut-Médoc, some 17 miles (28kilometers) northwest of Bordeaux,encompassing the communes ofCantenac, Soussans, Arsac, andLabarde, in addition to Margauxitself.
FCLIMATE
As for the Médoc (see p70).
EASPECT
One large, low-lying plateaucentering on Margaux, plus severalmodest outcrops that slope westtoward the forest.
DSOIL
Shallow, pebbly, siliceousgravel over a gravel subsoilinterbedded with limestone.
MARGAUX , SEE ALSO P.00
Of the classic Médoc appellations, Margaux—the most famous—stands alone to the south,and can boast more cru classé châteaux than any of the others.
CHÂTEAU MARGAUX
Margaux’s celebrated premier cru vineyards arematched by the grandeur of the building itself. Both thebuilding and the wine are justifiably famous.
92 F R A N C E
Crus classés in AOC Margaux21 châteaux (by number: 35% of crusclassés in the Médoc) with 2,110 acres(854 ha) of vineyards (by area: 35% ofcrus classés in the Médoc and 61% ofthis AOC)
1er crus classés
1 château (by number: 25% of 1er crusclassés in the Médoc) with 185 acres (75ha) of vineyards (by area: 25% of 1ercrus classés in the Médoc)
2ème crus classés
5 châteaux (by number: 36% of 2èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 670 acres(271 ha) of vineyards (by area: 34% of2ème crus classés in the Médoc)
3ème crus classés
10 châteaux (by number: 72% of 3èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 754 acres(305 ha) of vineyards (by area: 72% of3ème crus classés in the Médoc)
4ème crus classés
3 châteaux (by number: 30% of 4èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 259 acres(105 ha) of vineyards (by area: 22% of4ème crus classés in the Médoc)
5ème crus classés
2 châteaux (by number: 11% of 5èmecrus classés in the Médoc) with 242 acres(98 ha) of vineyards (by area: 13% of5ème crus classés in the Médoc)
MARGAUX CRU CLASSÉ STATISTICS
JVITICULTURE AND
VINIFICATION
Only red wines have the right tothe appellation. All grapes must bedestalked. On average, between 5and 10 percent vin de presse maybe used in the wine, according tothe needs of the vintage. Skincontact duration averages 15 to 25days, with the period of maturationin cask currently varying between18 and 24 months.
GGRAPE VARIETIES
Primary varieties: CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, MerlotSecondary varieties: Carmenère,Malbec, Petit Verdot
Château Durfort-Vivens
Château Palmer
Château Prieuré-Lichine
Château D’Issan
Château Cantenac-Brown
Château Siran
93B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C - M A R G A U X
NEW CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU MARGAUX
Evidence of the investment made in Château Margaux since the late 1970s is the refurbished wine store and its full complement of new oak barrels.
CHÂTEAU D �ANGLUDET
Angludet, home of the Sichel family,dates back to Bertrand d’Angludet,who in 1313 swore allegiance toEdward II of England. Owned bySichel from 1960 till 1999, thisproperty exudes its English heritage,with swans gliding on the brook atthe bottom of the property.
CHÂTEAU CANTENAC BROWN
This third growth was originally partof Château Boyd, but after the Boydsand Browns—who were joined bymarriage in the late 18th century—had a family crisis, the property wasdivided into Château Boyd-Cantenacand Château Cantenac Brown.
SOUTIRAGE CHÂTEAU MARGAUX
As the wine matures in the barrel its clarity is checked regularly. It spendsbetween 18 and 24 months in new oak.
MARGAUX PROFILE
Appellation covers: parts of the communes of Arsac, Cantenac, Labarde, Margaux, and Soussans as follows.
REGION SIZE OF AOC AREA VINE AREA AS VINE AREA ASCOMMUNE UNDER PROPORTION OF PROPORTION OF
TOTAL 18,562 acres 3,464 acres 19% 100%(7,512 ha) (1,402 ha)
Total size of all five communes: 18,562 acres (7,512 ha)Total AOC area under vine: 3,311 acres (1,402 ha) (19% of communes) Surface area of crus classés: 2,110 acres (854 ha) (11% of communes, 64% of AOC)
AN OUTSTANDING WINEIf the massive Pauillac wines of Château Latour and ChâteauMouton are an object lesson in how it is possible to bombard thesenses with power and flavor, and yet retain quite remarkablefinesse, then the exquisite wines of Margaux at their very best areperfect proof that complexity does not necessarily issue from anintense concentration of flavor.
However, this is not to suggest that Margaux wines do notactually possess some concentration; indeed, Château Margauxhas a particularly remarkable concentration of flavor, and itremains the quintessential wine of this appellation.
CHÂTEAU D�ANGLUDETCru Bourgeois
cb
Sauvignon 30%, Cabernet Franc20%, Petit Verdot 15%
k6–12 yearsSecond wine: Château Bel-Air-Marquis-de-Pomereu
CHÂTEAU BOYD-CANTENAC
3ème Cru Classé
Château Boyd-Cantenac is aproperty producing traditional-stylewines from old vines. The wine ismade at owner Mr. Guillemet’s otherproperty, Château Pouget, under thesupervision of Professor Peynaud. Itis matured in wood for 24 months,with 30 percent new oak and, in myopinion, would benefit from moreMerlot and no Petit Verdot.
RED Full-bodied, firm wine of goodcolor that needs a long time inbottle to soften. The mediocre 1980was particularly successful.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k12–20 years
CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC2ème Cru Classé
cbV
has, frankly, been disproportionateto the quality of its wines. Despiteheavy investment after beingpurchased by AXA, these wineshave not noticeably improved,although in the late 1980s to early1990s there was hope and someevidence that they might. The winesare matured in wood for 18 months,with one-third new oak.
RED This wine has always had asimilar weight to Brane-Cantenac,but with a less velvety and generallymore rustic style. The vintages ofthe 1980s have more finesse thanthose of the 1970s, but the qualityand concentration took a sharpupward turn in 1989 and 1990.
CHÂTEAU CHARMANTThis property was not classified as acru bourgeois in 1932, nor listed bythe Syndicat in 1978, but it certainlydeserves recognition today.
RED An elegant wine with plentyof fruit and a soft finish, it makesdelightful drinking when young.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k3–8 years
CHÂTEAU DAUZAC5ème Cru Classé
c
Now owned by MAIF and managedby Vignobles André Lurton, thequality of the wines from thischâteau has steadily increased sincethe mid-1990s. The wine, which ismatured in wood for 16 to 18months with one-third new oak, issteadily improving.
RED Ruby-colored, medium-bodied,round, and attractively fruity winesthat are easy to drink.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k6–12 yearsSecond wine: Labarde
Other wine: La Bastide
CHÂTEAU DESMIRAIL3ème Cru Classé
b
A “château with no château”(because the building that was itschâteau was purchased by ChâteauMarquis d’Alesme-Becker), Desmirailhas been on the ascent since itspurchase by the Lurton family, but itstill has some way to go before itbecomes a true troisième cru. It isowned and run by Denis Lurton,while oenologist Professor Peynaudadvises. The wine is matured in
wood for 20 months, with 25 to 50percent new oak.
RED A medium-bodied wine that isnicely balanced, with gentle fruitflavors and supple tannins. It iswell-made and gradually gaining infinesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 80%,Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc9%, Petit Verdot 1%
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Château Baudry
Other wine: Domaine de Fontarney
CHÂTEAU DEYREM-VALENTIN
This château was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but was notincluded in the Syndicat’s 1978 list,although it is superior to a few thatwere. Its vineyards adjoin those ofChâteau Lascombes.
RED Honest, medium-bodied, fruitywine of some elegance.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 45%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k4–10 years
CHÂTEAU DURFORT-VIVENS
2ème Cru ClassécV
Owned by Gonzague Lurton, who ismarried to Claire Villars, theadministrator of châteaux Chasse-Spleen and Haut-Bages-Libéral.Dufort-Vivens has become one ofthe best-value cru classé wines ofMargaux since the mid-1990s. Thisproperty matures its wine in woodfor 18 to 20 months, with up toone-third new oak.
RED Higher tannic structure thanBrane-Cantenac, but without theluxurious new-oak character, andwith less fruit and charm. The 1985was particularly rich and impressive.
gCabernet Sauvignon 82%,Cabernet Franc 10%, Merlot 8%
k10–25 yearsSecond wine: Second de Durfort
Other wine: Domaine de Curé-Bourse
CHÂTEAU FERRIÈRE3ème Cru Classé
cV
When managed by ChâteauLascombes this was little more thansecond-label status, but it hasgained in both exposure and qualitysince this property was purchasedby the Villars family.
RED Quick-maturing wine ofmedium weight and accessible fruit.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 20%, Petit Verdot 5%
k4–8 yearsSecond wine: Les Remparts deFerrière
THE WINE PRODUCERS OF
MARGAUX
94 F R A N C E
This château is owned by the Sichelfamily, who are also part-owners ofthe star-performing Château Palmer.Since the late 1980s this château hasestablished itself as cru classéquality. It will be interesting to seewhat the next decade brings. Thewine is matured in wood for 12months, with up to one-third newoak.
RED Vividly colored, medium- tofull-bodied wines with excellentfruit, finesse, and finish—classicMargaux.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 35%, Petit Verdot 10%
k10–20 yearsSecond wine: La Ferme d’Angludet
Other wine: Clairet d’Angludet
CHÂTEAU D�ARSACAOC MargauxCru Bourgeois
Until recently this was the onlyproperty in Arsac not to benefitfrom the Margaux appellation. Sincea change in ownership this estatehas expanded its vineyards from justover 27 acres (11 hectares) to 252acres (102 hectares), of which 100(40 hectares) are now classified asMargaux. The wines are matured inwood for 12 to 18 months, with 20percent new oak.
RED These are deep-colored, full-bodied wines.
gCabernet Sauvignon 80%,Merlot 15%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Château Ségur-d’Arsac
Other wine: Château Le Monteil-d’Arsac
CHÂTEAU BEL-AIRMARQUIS D�ALIGRE
V
Château Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligrewas classified cru bourgeois in 1932,but was not included in theSyndicat’s 1978 list, although it issuperior to a few that were. Thevineyard has limestone subsoil andonly organic fertilizers are used.
RED Well-made wines of fine color,elegant fruit, with a distinctive styleare produced by Château Bel-AirMarquis d’Aligre.
gMerlot 35%, Cabernet
This property is a superb plateau ofimmaculately kept vines situated ongravel over limestone and is ownedand run by Henri Lurton. The wineis matured in wood for 18 months,with 25 to 30 percent new oak.
RED These stylish wines have asmoky-cream and new-oak bouquet,deliciously rich fruit, and finesse onthe palate. They are top-qualitywines, velvety and beautifullybalanced.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Cabernet Franc 15%, Merlot13%, Petit Verdot 2%
k8–25 yearsSecond wine: Le Baron de Brane
Other wines: Domaine deFontarney, Château Notton
CHÂTEAU CANTENAC BROWN
3ème Cru Classé
Ever since I drank a 50-year-oldhalf-bottle of 1926 Cantenac Brownin splendid condition, I have had asoft spot for this château, which
CHÂTEAU GISCOURS3ème Cru Classé
cb
This property is situated in thecommune of Labarde. It waspurchased in 1952 by the Tarifamily, who have restored thechâteau, the vineyard, and thequality of its wine to their formerglory. In 1995 the château was soldto Eric Albada Jelgerms, a Dutchbusinessman who has at leastmaintained the quality and,arguably, improved it. The wine ismatured in wood for 20 to 34months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED Vividly colored wine, rich infruit and finesse. Its vibrant stylekeeps it remarkably fresh for manyyears.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 22%, Cabernet Franc2%, Petit Verdot 1%
k8–30 yearsSecond wine: La Sirène de Giscours
Other wine: Cantelaude
CHÂTEAU LA GURGUEThis property was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but not includedin the Syndicat’s 1978 list, althoughit is superior to a few that were. Itsproprietor also owns the cru classéHaut-Bages-Libéral, and the crubourgeois Chasse-Spleen.
RED Soft, elegant, medium-bodiedwine of attractive flavor and somefinesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 25%, Petit Verdot 5%
k4–12 years
CHÂTEAU D�ISSAN3ème Cru Classé
cc
This beautiful 17th-century châteauis frequently cited as the mostimpressive in the entire Médoc, andits remarkable wines, matured inwood for 18 months, with up toone-third new oak, are consistentlyjust as spectacular.
RED This wine really is glorious! Itsluxuriant bouquet is immediatelyseductive, its fruit is unbelievablyrich and sumptuous. A great wineof great finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 85%,Merlot 15%
k10–40 yearsSecond wine: Blason d’Issan
Other wine: De Candel
CHÂTEAU KIRWAN3ème Cru Classé
cbV
Château Kirwan is a well-run andimproving property owned by theBordeaux négociant Schröder &Schÿler with Michel Rollandconsulting. The wine is matured inwood for 18 to 24 months, with upto 50 percent new oak.
RED Deep-colored, full-bodied, richand concentrated wines that arewell-made and gaining ingenerosity, riper tannins, and newoak influence with each passingvintage.
gCabernet Sauvignon 40%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc20%, Petit Verdot 10%
k10–35 yearsSecond wine: Les Charmes deKirwan
CHÂTEAU LABÉGORCEcV
This château was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but not includedin the Syndicat’s 1978 list. SinceHubert Perrodo, a wine-loving oiltycoon, purchased Labégorce in 1989,the quality and price of its wineshave increased steadily. The wine ismatured in wood for 18 months,with up to one-third new oak.
RED Well-colored wine with goodbalance of concentration andfinesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k5–15 years
CHÂTEAU LABÉGORCE-ZÉDÉ
cbV
Classified cru bourgeois in 1932, butnot included in the 1978 list,although it is one of the best non-cru classé wines of the commune.
RED Fine flavor and great length,combined with a certain complexity,give the wines of this château aslight edge over those of ChâteauLabégorce.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 5%
k5–15 yearsSecond wine: Château de l’Amiral
CHÂTEAU LASCOMBES2ème Cru Classé
cc
Owned by Bass Group, the winesof this large property have alwaysbeen good, yet they have improveddramatically under René Vanatelle. Itwas Vanatelle who recognized thatonly 125 of Lascombes’ 208 acres(50 of 83 hectares) were ofauthentic deuxième cru potential.He therefore segregated thevineyard and sold the lesser winesas Château Segonnes. Thisaccounted for the noticeable stepup in quality in the 1980s. Then in1997, the year before he retired,Vanatelle introduced a true second
and wonderful smoky-creamy oakaromas. This is as near perfection as we will ever get.
gCabernet Sauvignon 75%,Merlot 20%, Cabernet Francand Petit Verdot 5%
Like Château Malescot St.-Exupéry,this was English-owned untilpurchased by Jean-Claude Zuger,who also purchased the maison ofneighboring Desmirail to act as itschâteau. The wine is matured inwood for 12 months, with one-sixthnew oak.
RED Austere and charmless winesfrom my point of view, althoughthey have their admirers. They are well-made, but lack sufficientselection, although the terroir has potential.
gCabernet Sauvignon 40%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc20%, Petit Verdot 10%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Marquise d’Alesme
CHÂTEAU MARQUIS-DE-TERME
4ème Cru Classé
Situated next to Château Margaux,this once majestic estate developedthe reputation for producing tight,tannic, one-dimensional wines, butits quality has picked up since thelate 1970s and has been performingextremely well since 1983. The wineis matured in wood for 24 months,with one-third new oak.
RED Appears to be developing astyle that is ripe and rich, withdefinite and delightful signs of new oak. The 1984 was quite a revelation.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 30%, Petit Verdot 7%,Cabernet Franc 3%
k10–25 yearsSecond wine: Terme des Goudat
CHÂTEAU MARSAC-SÉGUINEAU
This property was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but not includedin the Syndicat’s 1978 list, althoughit is superior to a few that were.The vineyards of this châteauinclude some plots that originallybelonged to a cru classé.
RED Medium- to full-bodied winesof good bouquet and a soft style.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 35%
k5–12 yearsSecond wine: Château Gravières-de-Marsac
95B O R D E A U X - T H E M É D O C - M A R G A U X
wine, Chevalier des Lascombes,which has pushed standards up yetanother notch, before handing overto Bruno Lemoine, formerly ofMontrose. The wine is matured inwood for 14 to 20 months, withone-third new oak.
RED Full-bodied, rich, andconcentrated wine with ripe fruit, alovely cedarwood complexity, andsupple tannin.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 40%, Petit Verdot 5%
k8–30 yearsSecond wine: Chevalier Lascombes
Other wines: Château Segonnes,Gombaud, Rosé de Lascombes, VinSec Chevalier Lascombes
CHÂTEAU MALESCOT ST-EXUPÉRY
3ème Cru Classéc
English-owned until 1955, when itwas purchased by Roger Zuger,whose brother owns ChâteauMarquis-d’Alesme-Becker. The wineis matured in wood for 18 months,with 20 percent new oak.
RED Richer, more complex wineshave been produced since 1996.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 5%
k8–25 yearsSecond wines: Château De Loyac,La Dame de Malescot
Other wine: Balardin
CHÂTEAU MARGAUX1er Cru ClassécccV
This is the most famous wine in the world and, since its gloriousrebirth in 1978, the greatest. Itsquality may occasionally bematched, but it is never surpassed.Purchased in 1977 for 72 millionfrancs ($14.5 million) by the lateAndré Mentzelopoulos, who spentan equal sum renovating it, thisfabulous jewel in the crown of theMédoc is now run by his daughter,Corinne Mentzelopoulos. BothChâteau Margaux and its secondwine, “Pavillon Rouge,” are vinifiedin oak vats and matured for 18 to24 months in 100 percent new oak.
RED If finesse can be picked up on the nose, then the stunning and complex bouquet of ChâteauMargaux is the yardstick. Thesoftness, finesse, and velvety texture of this wine belies its depth.Amazingly rich and concentrated,with an elegant, long, and complexfinish supported by ripe tannins
of it on the palate.
RED The last vintage I reallyenjoyed was 1961; 1996 andparticularly 1998 could herald anupturn in quality.
gCabernet Sauvignon 40%,Merlot 39%, Cabernet Franc20%, Petit Verdot 1%
k7–15 yearsSecond wine: Enclos de Moncabon
CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA
2ème Cru Classécb
The quality of this once-disappointing château began to liftin the 1980s due to significantinvestment in the property from itsowner, the Bordeaux négocianthouse of Eschenauer, which alsoinstigated a far stricter selection ofthe grand vin. In 1994 Rauzan-Séglawas sold to Chanel, the underbidderfor Latour (sold by Allied-Lyons tothe French industrialist FrançoisPinault). Since then key personnelfrom the premier cru have beenbrought in to keep theimprovements in full swing. Thewine is matured in wood for 20months, with 50 percent new oak,and is currently one of Bordeaux’stop-performing deuxièmes crus.
RED In classic years, this wine isdeep and dark, with a powerfultannic construction, and more thanenough intensely flavored fruit tomatch. Lesser vintages are dark forthe year, but much more lush, withsofter tannins.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k15–30 yearsSecond wine: Ségla
Other wines: Lamouroux
CHÂTEAU SIRANcbV
Château Siran was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but not includedin the Syndicat’s 1978 list, althoughit is superior to a few that were.The vineyard is well-situated, withimmaculately manicured vines thatborder those of châteaux Giscoursand Dauzac. The wine is matured inwood for 24 months, with one-thirdnew oak, in air-conditioned cellars.Monsieur Miailhe, the owner, alsolikes to provide his guests withevery facility.
RED Stylish, aromatic wines ofgood body, creamy-spicy fruit,
96 F R A N C E
CHÂTEAU MONBRISONCru Bourgeois
cV
These vineyards used to be part ofcru classé Château Desmirail; thewines were excellent 10 years ago,and now vie with those of true cruclassé standard.
RED This château’s second labeloffers a brilliant selection ofbeautifully deep-colored wines withspicy-oak, superrich juicy fruit, anda fine structure of supple tannin.
CHÂTEAU MONTBRUNChâteau Montbrun was classifiedcru bourgeois in 1932, but notincluded in the Syndicat’s 1978 list,although it is superior to a few thatwere. This used to be part of cruclassé Château Palmer.
RED Beautifully made, ripe, andjuicy, medium- to full-bodied,Merlot-dominated wines.
Only Château Margaux outshinesthis property, jointly owned byBelgian, French, and British (theSichel family) interests. ChâteauPalmer 1961 and 1966 regularlyfetch prices at auction that equalthose fetched by the premiers crus.Judged at the very highest level, itcould be more consistent. It isusually excellent, but not alwaysastonishing—although when it is, itcan stand shoulder to shoulder withpremiers crus in a blind tasting. Atrue supersecond that promises toachieve even greater heights sincethe introduction of Alto Ego, a sortof superpremium of second wines,in 1998. The wine is matured inwood for 18 to 24 months, withone-third new oak.
RED Deep, almost opaque-coloredwine with masses of cassis fruit andan exceedingly rich, intense, andcomplex construction of creamy,spicy, cedarwood, and vanilla flavrs,supported by a fine tannic structure.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc7%, Petit Verdot 3%
This property was classified crubourgeois in 1932, but not includedin the Syndicat’s 1978 list, althoughit is superior to a few that were.The vineyards are well-situated, andsurrounded by crus classés.
RED Richly perfumed, deeplycolored, full-bodied wines of good structure.
gCabernet Sauvignon and Merlot47%, Cabernet Franc 45%, PetitVerdot 8%
k6–15 yearsSecond wine: Château Pontac-Phénix
CHÂTEAU POUGET4ème Cru Classé
?
Under the same ownership as Boyd-Cantenac, this property houses the winemaking and storage facilities for both châteaux.The wine is matured in wood for 22 to 24 months, with 30 percentnew oak.
RED Well-colored, full-bodied winewith good depth of flavor. Good,but not great, and could be moreconsistent.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 17%, Cabernet Franc8%, Petit Verdot 5%
k10–25 years
CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE
4ème Cru Classéc
The late Alexis Lichine purchasedChâteau Prieuré in 1951 and addedhis name to it. To develop the smallrundown vineyard, he boughtvarious prized plots of vines fromPalmer, Kirwan, Giscours, Boyd-Cantenac, Brane-Cantenac, andDurfort-Vivens—some 148 acres (60hectares). The compositeclassification must be higher than itsofficial status—the wines certainlyare. Lichine’s son Sacha ran theproperty until 1999, when he sold itto its current owners, the Ballandefamily. The wines are matured inwood for 19 months, with one-thirdnew oak.
RED Well-colored, full-bodiedwines, plummy and rich, with goodblackcurrant fruit supported bysupple tannins and a touch ofvanilla-oak.
gCabernet Sauvignon 54%,Merlot 39%, Cabernet Franc2%, Petit Verdot 5%
k7–20 yearsSecond wine: Château DeClairefont
CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-GASSIES
2ème Cru Classéb
Until the French Revolution of 1789,this property and Château Rauzan-Ségla were one large estate. Theglobe-trotting Professor Peynaudwas brought in to steer this wineback on course in the early 1980s,but he failed miserably. Jean-LouisCamp, formerly of Loudenne, seemsto be having more success. Thewine is matured in wood for 17 to20 months, with 20 percent newoak, although there is little evidence
length, and obvious class. Easilyequivalent to cru classé quality.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 25%, Petit Verdot 15%,Cabernet Franc 10%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Château Bellegarde
Other wines: Château St-Jacques
CHÂTEAU TAYACCru Bourgeois
As Bernard Ginestet, whose familyowned Château Margaux for 40years, once wrote, “this is one of thelargest of the smaller properties, andone of the smallest of the larger.”
RED Firm, medium- to full-bodiedwines of good character, althoughsomewhat rustic; they tend to becoarse in lesser years.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k6–12 years
CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE5ème Cru Classé
cb
An underrated cru classé, thischâteau has well-situated vineyards.It is under the same ownership asGiscours since 1998. The wine ismatured in wood for 24 months,with 25 percent new oak.
RED Although the scent of violets issupposed to be common toMargaux wines, this is one of thefew in which I pick it up. The wineis medium- to full-bodied, rich infragrant fruit, and has excellentbalance, with obvious class.
gCabernet Sauvignon 85%,Cabernet Franc 5%, Merlot 10%
k8–25 years
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR DE MONS
Cru Bourgeois
These wines are aged in wood for22 months, with 20 percent newoak and have improved enormouslysince the late 1980s. Easilyequivalent to cru classé quality.
RED As richly flavored as ever, butwithout the tannins or acidity thatused to be this wine’s pitfall.
gCabernet Sauvignon 45%,Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc10%, Petit Verdot 5%
k10–30 yearsSecond wine: Château Rucheterre
CHÂTEAU DES TROIS-CHARDONS
bV
A tiny production of very high-quality wine from a château namedafter the current owner, a MonsieurChardon, and his two sons.
RED Ultraclean, soft, fruity butserious wines of some finesse andwell-defined Margaux character.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 10%
k6–15 years
97B O R D E A U X - G R A V E S , C É R O N S , S A U T E R N E S , A N D B A R S A C
GRAVES, CÉRONS, SAUTERNES, AND BARSAC
The finest red Graves wines are produced inPessac-Léognan, good red and improving drywhite wines in the center of Graves, and the greatsweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac in the south. The emphasis in production is on classicred wines.
THE SILKY-SMOOTH red wines of the Graves district have beenfamous since the Middle Ages, when they were protected by locallaws that punished those who dared to blend them with otherBordeaux wines. Château Haut-Brion was the only red wineoutside the Médoc to be classified in 1855, and such was itsreputation that it was placed alongside the premiers crus ofLatour, Lafite, Mouton, and Margaux. Beneath Haut-Brion, thereare a few great wines equivalent in quality to deuxième ortroisième cru, but only a few.
The relative lack of superstars in Graves is offset by a higherbase quality of wine and greater consistency of performance inthe red wines at least. There are 43 communes in this appellation.Much the best are Léognan, Talence, and Pessac, after whichMartillac and Portets are the most outstanding, followed by Illatsand Podensac. All the greatest wines are therefore in the north ofthe Graves district, amid the urban sprawl of Bordeaux, and thispresents something of a problem. The once-peaceful left bank ofthe Garonne is slowly and inexorably disappearing. As the citybursts outward, more rural vineyards are encircled by the concretejungle, and many quite simply vanish. How many Bordeaux
aficionados who fly directly to the airport in Mérignac stop toconsider the cost of such progress? In 1908 there were 30winemaking properties in the commune of Mérignac; today thereis just one—Château Picque-Caillou. The conurbated communesof Cadaujac, Gradignan, Léognan, Martillac, Mérignac, Pessac,Talence, and Villenave d’Ornon have lost 214 wine châteaux overthe same period.
THE PROBLEM OF WHITE GRAVES SOLVEDWell almost! While the quality and reputation of the red wineshave always been well established, white Graves had a seriousidentity problem that came to a crisis point in the mid-1980s.Although fine white Graves were being produced, most of it wasin the northern communes, but they were tarred with the samebrush as the worst white wines from farther south. It was notsimply a north–south divide; there was also an identity problem—should they be making rich, oak-aged blends or light and fluffySauvignon Blanc? Paradoxically, the worst wines came from someof the best properties in the north, produced by winemakers whoeither did not know how to, or did not care to, clean up their act,as they continued to sell tired, oversulfured, oxidized, and flabbywines on the backs of their decaying reputations.
An official north-south divide, however, proved to be thesolution for, since 1987, when the Pessac-Léognan AOC wasintroduced, things have never looked better for Graves. ThePessac-Léognan appellation is a single appellation for both redand white wines from the communes Cadaujac, Canéjan,Gradignan, Léognan, Martillac, Mérignac, Pessac, St.-Médard-d’Eyrans, Talence, and Villenave d’Ornon. This has had the effectof giving the northern châteaux the official quality recognition
58
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60
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88
26
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85
53
48
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D10
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D651
D21
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D220
A62
D21
4
D116
D11
D11
D8
D125
D10
D932
A62
D12
N113
D67
2
D11E
D10
D20
D14
D671
D936
D10
D211
D651
D109
N113
N10
A63
N250
D106
D5
A66
D108
A63
D3
D21
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D213
D107D
20N89
D110
D651
D110
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D3
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Bordeaux
Cambes
Langoiran
Créon
Vayres
Fargues-St-Hilaire
SaucatsSt-Morillon
Landiras
Arbanats
Podensac
Cadillac
Barsac
Cérons
PreignacIllats
St-Michel-de-Rieufret
St-Médard-d'Eyrans
Hostens
St-Magne
le Barp
Marcheprime
Louchats
Balizac
Villagrains
Cabanac-et-Villagrains
Lugos
Sauternes
Auros
Gornac
LeognanCestas
Cadaujac
St-Jean-d'Illac
Martignas-sur-Jalles
La Brède
Beautiran
Saucats
ST-MÉDARD-EN-JALLES
BASSENS
BELIN-BELIET
SALLESLANGON
Gesta
s
Ga
ron
ne
Jalle
Lacanau Saucats
Gat
Mor
t
Ciron
Galouchey
Beu
vre
Eyre
Leuille
Domaine de Chevalier
Ch. la Mission-Haut-BrionCh. Haut-Brion
Ch. Pape ClémentCh. Laville-Haut-Brion
Ch.Malartic-Lagravière Ch. la Tour-Martillac
Ch. BouscautCh. Smith-HautLafitteCh. Haut-Bailly
Ch. CarbonnieuxCh. Olivier
Ch. Couhins
Ch. la Tour Haut- Brion
Ch. Filhot
Ch. GuiraudCh. Rieussec
Ch. d'Yquem
Ch. de Malle
Ch. Bastor-Lamontagne
Ch. la Tour BlancheCh. Rabaud-Promis
Ch.Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Ch.Climens
Ch.Suduiraut
Ch. Lamothe
Château
Intensive vine-growing zone
Graves
Cérons
Sauternes
Barsac
Pessac-Léognan
Height abovesea level (metres)
8 km4 620
6 miles2 40
GRAVES , CÉRONS , SAUTERNES ,AND BARSAC , see also p63
The winemaking area that includesGraves, Cérons, Sauternes, and
Barsac forms a swathe that sweeps down from Bordeaux,
parallel with the Garonne.
VINES AT HAUT-BRION
Rose bushes at the end of each rowact as a pest early-warning system.
they both wanted and deserved.It was a bit slow to start off—after all, Pessac-Léognan hardlytrips off the tongue and therewere worries about itsmarketability. There is still atendency to put Graves on labels,
and use Pessac-Léognan to qualify the wine as if it were a higherclassification of Graves, which for all practical purposes it is.
Once the châteaux realized that foreign markets were pickingup on the superior connotation of Pessac-Léognan, use of theappellation soon became widespread. Whether by their ownvolition or due to peer pressure, many of the underperformershave become the most quality-conscious châteaux in theappellation, and it has spurred producers in the south to improvetheir wines. They do not like being considered inferior, and asthey intend to prove they are not, the consumer can only gain.
CÉRONSThis is an area situated within the boundaries of Graves. It is the stepping stone between dry white Graves, and sweet whiteSauternes and Barsac. The châteaux of Cérons have been giventhe official right to make both red and white Graves, GravesSupérieur (which may be dry but is usually sweet) and, of course,the sweet wine of Cérons—a wine that has enjoyed a modestreputation for nearly 200 years. In fact, only 20 percent of theproduction in this area is sold as Cérons since the appellationcovers three communes, those of Illats, Podensac, and Céronsitself. Many of the vineyards comprise scattered plots, some ofwhich are partially planted with acacias.
SAUTERNES AND BARSACThe gap between ordinary sweet white wines and the great winesof Sauternes and Barsac is as wide as that between sweet and drywines. What creates this gap is something called “complexity”—to
98 F R A N C E
THE CLASSIFICATION OF GRAVES
The only Graves property to be classified in 1855 was Château Haut-Brion.The Syndicat, for the defense of the Graves appellation, wanted to create itsown classification, but was prevented from doing so until the 1921 law waschanged in 1949. The first classification was not made until 1953, and thisitself was later modified in 1959.
Distinction is made between red wines and white wines, but no attemptat ranking between the various growths is made—they all have the right touse the term cru classé. It can be seen from the 1,320 acres (535 hectares)of classified properties listed below that this represents not much more than13 percent of the total 1,745 acres (4,350 hectares) of delimited vineyardsplanted in the Graves and Pessac-Léognan appellation.
*Note—These figures are not precise conversions of the hectare totals, but arecolumn totals and differ because of rounding up.
VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU D�YQUEM
Here, the winter vineyard shows the characteristic sandy-pebbly clay topsoil and the system of wires and stakes that supports the vines. Yquem’s clay subsoil contains 62 miles (100 kilometers) of terra-cotta pipes, which were laid down at the end of the 19th century to provide perfect drainage.
THE GLOWING TINTS OF CHÂTEAU D�YQUEM
Château d’Yquem vintages, stretching back from a bottle of the 1980. Theyounger wines are a rich gold with a greenish tinge, deepening to old gold andamber with the older vintages.
CHÂTEAU D�YQUEM: THE INNER COURTYARD
A huge stone well dominates the squarecentral courtyard of this beautifulchâteau, which comprises disparateelements dating from the 15th, 16th,and 17th centuries.
99B O R D E A U X - G R A V E S , C É R O N S , S A U T E R N E S , A N D B A R S A C
CHÂTEAU DE FARGUES
The original family home of the Lur-Saluces family is now a ghostly ruin. Thefamily moved to Yquem in 1785 upon its union with the De Sauvage family.
TRADITIONAL HORSE-DRAWN PLOW
At Château d’Yquem workhorses are used to help plow the topsoil between therows, both after the harvest and again in March.
find out what that is, sample the aroma of a glass of matureSauternes. The wines produced in Sauternes are not only theworld’s most luscious, but also the most complex wines. I haveseen hardened men who resolutely refuse to drink anythingsweeter than lemon juice go weak at the knees after one sniff ofChâteau Suduiraut, and I defy the most stubborn and bigoted anti-sweet wine drinker not to drool over a glass of Château d’Yquem1967. Astonishingly, there are dissenters, but for me Yquem is byfar the best wine of these two appellations, Sauternes and Barsac.The battle for second place is always between the soft, lusciousstyle of Suduiraut, and the rich, powerful character of Rieussec,with Climens, Nairac, and the nonclassified growths of Gilette andde Fargues in close pursuit. Guiraud has the potential to go rightto the top, and with so many châteaux seriously improving, theycould all end up chasing each other for the number two spot.
The “noble rot”Yquem might be the ultimate sweet white wine, but many othergreat wines are made in these two small areas tucked away in theBordeaux backwaters. What gives all these wines their hallmark ofcomplexity is, literally, a lot of rot—namely “noble rot,” or thefungal growth Botrytis cinerea. The low-lying hills of Sauternesand, to a lesser extent, of Barsac, together with a naturally warmbut humid climate, provide a natural breeding ground for botrytis,the spores of which are indigenous to the area. They remaindormant in the vineyard soil and on vine bark until they areactivated by suitable conditions—alternate moisture and heat (the early-morning mist being followed by hot, mid-morningsunshine). The spores latch on to the skin of each grape,replacing its structure with a fungal growth and feeding onmoisture from within the grape. They also devour five-sixths ofthe grape’s acidity and one-third of its sugar, but as the amount ofwater consumed is between one-half and two-thirds, the effect isto concentrate the juice into a sticky, sugar-rich pulp. A healthy,ripe grape with a potential of 13 percent alcohol is thus convertedinto a mangy-looking mess with a potential of between 17.5
percent and 26 percent. The spread of botrytis through a vineyardis neither orderly nor regular, and the harvest may take as long as10 weeks to complete, with the pickers making various sorties, ortries, through the vineyard. On each trie, only the affected grapesshould be picked, but care must be taken to leave some rot oneach bunch to facilitate its spread. The longer the growers awaitthe miraculous “noble rot,” the more the vines are prone to theravages of frost, snow, hail, and rain, any of which could destroyan entire crop
The viticulture of Sauternes and Barsac is the most labor-intensive of any region. The yield is very low, officially amaximum of 112 cases per acre (25 hectoliters per hectare), about half that in the Médoc, and the levels achieved in the best châteaux are much lower, around 67 to 90 cases per acre (15 to 20 hectoliters per hectare). At Yquem it is even less, the equivalent of one glass per vine. On top of all this, thevinification is, at the very least, difficult to handle, and maturationof a fine sweet wine demands a good proportion of veryexpensive new oak.
Variations in character Not all the sugar is used up during fermentation, even when awine of perhaps 14 to 15 percent alcohol is made. The remainingunfermented sugar, often between 50 and 120 grams per liter,gives the wine its natural sweetness. However, unlike Sauternes’German counterparts, its alcohol level is crucial to its character. Its strength, in harmony with the wine’s sweetness, acidity, andfruit give it a lusciousness of concentration that simply cannot bematched. Its complexity is not, however, the effect of concentration,although an increased mineral level is no doubt an influence.Complexity is created by certain new elements that are introducedinto the grape’s juice during the metabolic activities of itsbotrytis—glycerol, gluconic acid, saccharic acid, dextrin, variousoxidizing enzymes, and an elusive antibiotic substance called“botrycine.”
It is easy to explain how these components of a botrytizedwine that form its inimitably complex character can vary. Whentasting wine from different tries at the same château, the intensityof botrytized character varies according to the “age” of the funguswhen the grapes are harvested. Wines made from the samepercentage of botrytized grapes collected at the beginning andend of the harvest are noticeably mute compared to those in the middle when the rot is at its most rampant. If it is notsurprising that youthful Botrytis cinerea has an undevelopedcharacter, the same cannot be said of late-harvested. Many people believe that the longer botrytis establishes itself, the more potent its effect, but this is not true.
100 F R A N C E
THE �POURRITURE NOBLE , � OR NOBLE ROT
A bunch of Sémillon grapes ready for the first trie. Some of the grapes are still unaffected by the fungus, some are affected and discolored but not shriveled, others are dried, withered, and covered with the fungus bloom.
FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY
HLOCATION
The left bank of the Garonneriver, stretching southeast from justnorth of Bordeaux to 6 miles (10kilometers) east of Langon. Cérons,Sauternes, and Barsac are tuckedinto the southern section of theGraves district.
FCLIMATE
Very similar to the Médoc, butfractionally hotter and with slightlymore rainfall. In Sauternes andBarsac it is mild and humid, with anall-important fall alternation of mistymornings and later sunshine, theideal conditions for “noble rot.”
EASPECT
The suburbs of Bordeauxsprawl across the northern sectionof this district, becoming more ruralbeyond Cadaujac. Graves has amuch hillier terrain than the Médoc,with little valleys cut out by myriadstreams that drain into the Garonne.Some of the vineyards here are verysteep. The communes of Sauternes,Bommes, and Fargues are hilly, butPreignac and Barsac, on either sideof the Ciron—a small tributary ofthe Garonne—have gentler slopes.
DSOIL
Traveling south through thedistrict, the gravelly topsoil ofGraves gradually becomes mixedwith sand, then with weatheredlimestone and eventually with clay.The subsoil also varies, but basicallyit is iron-pan, limestone, and clay,either pure or mixed. Cérons has astony soil, mostly flint and gravel,over marl; there is reddish clay-gravel over clay, or gravelly iron-pan in Sauternes, and clay-
superior appellation, the châteaux should concentrate on makingthe finest red and dry white wines every year. Only whenconditions appear favorable should some of the white grape cropbe left on the vine, with fingers crossed for an abundance ofBotrytis cinerea. Instead of these châteaux investing in new oakfor modest vintages, they should utilize the casks for the red andthe dry white. The result would be a tiny amount of the world’smost luscious wine, maybe three or four years in 10. It would nolonger be necessary to attempt the impossible task of selling anold-fashioned image to young wine drinkers; the limited supplywould outstrip the current demand. After 30 years of watchingthis area’s vain attempts to win over popular support for its wines,I have come to accept the view of Comte Alexandre de Lur-Saluces, proprietor of Château d’Yquem. When asked to justify theprice of Yquem, he simply said his wines are not made foreveryone; they are made for those who can afford them.
limestone over clay-gravel inFargues. The gravel slopes ofBommes are sometimes mixed withheavy clay soils, while the plain issandy clay with a reddish clay orlimestone subsoil. Preignac is sand,gravel, and clay over clay-gravel inthe south, becoming more alluvialover sand, clay, and limestonecloser to Barsac. Where theclassified growths of Barsac aresituated, the soil is clay-limestoneover limestone, elsewhere thetopsoil mingles with sandy gravel.
JVITICULTURE AND
VINIFICATION
Some châteaux add a certainamount of vin de presse to the redwine. The cuvaison varies betweeneight and 15 days, although someGraves châteaux permit 15–25 days.Maturation in cask is generallybetween 15 and 18 months. Thesweet white wines of Sauternes andBarsac are made from several triesof late-harvested, overripe grapeswhich, ideally, have “noble rot.”Destalking is usually unnecessary.The fermentation of grape juice sohigh in sugar content is difficult tostart and awkward to control, but itis usually over within two to eightweeks. The exact period offermentation depends upon thestyle desired. Many of the bestwines are matured in cask for oneand a half to three and a half years.
GGRAPE VARIETIES
Primary varieties: CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc.Secondary varieties: Malbec, PetitVerdot, MuscadelleThe rewards, the reality, and the future
A good Sauternes is the most arduous, expensive, and frustratingwine in the world to produce—and what is the winemaker’sreward? Very little, I’m afraid. Aside from Château d’Yquem—notonly the greatest Sauternes but the greatest wine per se—thewines of this region fail to realize their true worth. This ispredictable in a world where the trend is toward lighter and drierstyles of wine, and may have a positive effect for Sauternesaficionados, for it means a cheaper supply of their favorite wine.In the long term this is not a positive way to operate, and someproprietors simply cannot afford to go on. The Comte de Pontacuprooted all the vines at his deuxième cru Château de Myrat inBarsac, and even the ever-optimistic Tom Heeter, former owner ofChâteau Nairac, once said “You have to be at least half-crazy tomake a living out of these wines.” I feel we certainly do notdeserve the luscious wines of Sauternes and Barsac if we continueto ignore them, but if the authorities had more sense, and theowners more business acumen, these wines could literally become“liquid gold.”
The only way aheadThe vineyards of Sauternes and Barsac should also be allowed tosell red and dry white wines under the Graves appellation. If thisis a right accorded to modest Cérons, why not to its illustriousneighbors? Many châteaux already make red and dry white wines,but they are sold under the cheaper “Bordeaux” appellation. TomHeeter was right, the proprietors must be half-crazy, because theirmotivation for producing these alternative products is to subsidizethe cost of making their botrytized wine, when they should betrying to supplement their incomes. Given the incentive of a
THE APPELLATIONS OF
GRAVES, CÉRONS, SAUTERNES, AND BARSACBARSAC AOC
The commune of Barsac is one of five that havethe right to the Sauternes appellation. (The othersare Preignac, Fargues, Bommes, and Sauternesitself.) Some generic wines sold in bulk may takeadvantage of this, but all individual propertiesare sold as Barsac. The wine must includeoverripe botrytized grapes harvested in tries.
WHITE Luscious, intensely sweet wines similarin style to Sauternes, but perhaps lighter inweight, slightly drier, and less rich. As inSauternes, 1983 is one of the best vintages ofthe 20th century.
gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
k6–25 years for most wines; between 15–60years for the greatest
CÉRONS AOCThese inexpensive wines from an area adjacentto Barsac are the best value-for-money sweetwines in Bordeaux. They must include overripebotrytized grapes harvested in tries.
WHITE Lighter than Barsac, but often just asluscious, the best of these wines can show truebotrytis complexity.
gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
k6–15 years for most wines
GRAVES AOCThis appellation begins at the Jalle deBlanquefort, where the Médoc finishes and runsfor 37 miles (60 kilometers) along the left bankof the Garonne. Almost two-thirds of the wineis red, and is consistently high in quality andvalue.
RED I was brought up on the notion that withfull maturity a Graves reveals itself through acertain earthiness of character. Experience hastaught me the opposite. The biggest Gravesfrom hot years can have a denseness that maycombine with the smoky character of new oakto give the wine a roasted or tobaccolike
complexity, but Graves is intrinsically clean. Itshallmark is its vivid fruit, clarity of style, silkytexture, and hints of violets.
WHITE This is the disappointing half of theappellation: light- to full-bodied, from pureSauvignon to pure Sémillon (with allproportions of blends in between, flabby tozingy, and unoaked to heavily oaked). Pay strictattention to the château profiles on thefollowing pages. These wines may be sold fromDecember 1 following the harvest without anymention of primeur or nouveau.
gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
k1–2 years for modest wines; 8–20 years forthe best
GRAVES SUPÉRIEUR AOCSome surprisingly good would-be Barsacs lurkbeneath this appellation that is rarely seen, yetaccounts for more than one-fifth of all whiteGraves produced.
WHITE This wine can be dry, but most is asweet style, similar to Barsac.
gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
k6–15 years
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN AOCIntroduced in September 1987, this appellationcovers the 10 best communes that have theright to the Graves AOC, and it is not by chancethat it also encompasses 55 of the best estates,including all the crus classés. The technicalrequirements are similar to Graves except thatthe Carmenère may be used for red wines;white wines must contain at least 25 percentSauvignon Blanc and a slightly stricter yield. Ifyou are not sure which château to buy in theGraves, it is worth remembering this appellation
and paying a premium for it.
RED Soft, silky reds of great violety elegance,and not lacking either concentration or length.Most have been aged in a percentage of newoak, which adds a smoky or tobaccolikecomplexity.
gCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carmenère
k6–20 years
WHITE The serious styles are invariably oakedthese days, with oodles of flavor, often tropicaland fruity, with a firm acid structure. Thesewines may be sold from December 1 followingthe harvest without any mention of primeur ornouveau.
gA minimum of 25% Sauvignon Blanc, plusSémillon, Muscadelle
kUsually 3–8 years, but up to 20 years for the best
SAUTERNES AOCThe much hillier communes of Bommes,Fargues, and Sauternes produce the richest ofall Bordeaux’s dessert wines, while the châteauxin the lower-lying, flatter Preignac make winesvery close in style to Barsac. The wine mustinclude overripe botrytized grapes harvested in tries.
WHITE Golden, intense, powerful, and complex wines that defy the senses and boggle the mind. They are rich in texture, with masses of rich, ripe, and fat fruit.Pineapple, peach, apricot, and strawberry aresome of the lush flavors that can be found, andthe creamy-vanilla character of fruit and newoak matures into a splendid honeyedsumptuousness that is spicy and complex.Above all, these wines are marked by thedistinctive botrytis character.
gSémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
k10–30 years for most wines; between 20 and70 years for the greatest
101B O R D E A U X - G R A V E S , C É R O N S , S A U T E R N E S , A N D B A R S A C
CHÂTEAU D�ARCHAMBEAU
IllatscbV
Sited in Podensac, one of thecommunes of Cérons, this fineproperty is owned by Dr. JeanDubourdieu, nephew of PierreDubourdieu of Doisy-Daëne, adeuxième cru in Barsac. Heproduces a fine-quality, fragrant,and attractively aromatic red wine,which has the typical silky Gravestexture. The deliciously fresh, crisp,and fruity dry white Graves is betterthan some efforts by certain cru classéchâteaux. His soft, fruity Cérons ismoelleux with the emphasis moreon perfume than richness.
Second wines: Château Mourlet,Château La Citadelle
CHÂTEAU LA BLANCHERIE
La BrèdeOcV
This fresh and lively dry whiteGraves is cool fermented, and has plenty of juicy fruit flavorbalanced with ripe acidity.
CHÂTEAU LA BLANCHERIE-PEYRAT
La BrèdeOcV
The red wine of La Blancherie is sold under this label. It is amedium- to full-bodied wine that is matured in casks and has an engaging, spicy bouquet and a rich, fruity flavor.
CHÂTEAU BOUSCAUTCadaujac
Cru Classé (red and white)cb
Belongs to Sophie and Louis Lurton.The red wine is matured in woodfor 18 months, with 25 percent newoak. The white wine is fermentedand matured for up to six monthsin 100 percent new oak.
RED Until the 1980s this wine wasbig, tough, and tannic with littlecharm. Recent vintages have shownincreasing suppleness, but the winestill struggles to find form. Thesecond wine, Château Valoux, is areally excellent wine for its class.
WHITE This dry, medium-bodiedwhite wine has exotic fruit flavorssupported by gentle oak.
gSémillon 70%, Sauvignon 30%
k5–10 years
CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUXLéognan
Cru Classé (red and white)cbV
This is the largest wine estate inGraves. The white wine, the betterknown of the two styles, is cool-fermented in stainless steel andmatured in 100 percent new oak forthree months.
RED I frankly did not care for thiswine until the splendid 1985
THE GENERIC APPELLATIONS OF
GRAVES AND CÉRONS
102 F R A N C E
vintage, which seduced me with itscreamy-oak nose, silky-texturedfruit, and supple tannin, but similarjoys have been few and farbetween.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc10%, Malbec, and Petit Verdot5%
k6–18 yearsWHITE Once solid and uninspiring,this wine has really come into itsown since the early 1990s. Fromthis time Château Carbonnieux hasbeen lush and creamy with well-integrated new oak and not a littlefinesse.
gSauvignon 60%, Sémillon 40%
k2–5 yearsSecond wine: Château La TourLéognan
CHÂTEAU DE CARDAILLANToulennecbV
Under the same ownership asChâteau de Malle, this is adeuxième cru Sauternes in thecommune of Preignac. Thisexcellent property produces atechnically brilliant red Graves witha voluptuous blackcurrant flavor,which develops quickly, yet ageswell.
gCabernet Sauvignon 80%,Merlot 20%
CHÂTEAU LES CARMES-HAUT-BRION
Pessacc
From 1584 until the FrenchRevolution in 1789, this propertybelonged to the white friars Carmes,hence the name. This soft, Merlot-dominated wine has always been inthe shadow of its more famousneighbor, Haut-Brion, and alwayswill, but there has been a noticeableshift upward in quality.
CHÂTEAU DE CÉRONSCérons
This 17th-century château, whichmakes an attractively light, sweetwhite Cérons, is owned by JeanPerromat, owner of Mayne-Binet, deBessanes, Ferbos, Ferbos-Lalanettein Cérons, and Prost in Barsac.
CHÂTEAU DECHANTEGRIVE
PodensacbV
This château produces a substantialquantity of an excellent, soft, andfruity red Graves (CabernetSauvignon 50 percent, Merlot 40percent, Cabernet Franc 10 percent)that is matured in wooden vats forsix months and then transferred tocasks for a further 12 months with20 percent new oak. It alsoproduces an elegant, aromatic, cool-fermented dry white Graves that isproduced entirely from the firstpressing (Sémillon 60 percent,Sauvignon 30 percent, Muscadelle
10 percent). The proprietor alsoowns Château d’Anice.
Second wine: Château Mayne-Lévêque
Other wine: Château Bon-Dieu-des-Vignes
DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER
LéognanCru Classé (red and white)
ccbV
One of the top three Graves afterHaut-Brion, this extraordinaryproperty gives me more pleasurethan any other in this AOC. Itutilizes the most traditional methodsto produce outstanding red and drywhite wine. Fermenting red wine ata temperature as high as 89°F(32°C) might encourage someproblems elsewhere, but under themeticulous care of those at theDomaine de Chevalier, this practice,designed to extract the maximumtannins and coloring material, is apositive advantage. The red wine ismatured in wood for up to 24months, with 50 percent new oak.The white wine is fermented andmatured in wood for 18 months,with up to 25 percent new oak.
RED Deep-colored, medium-to-fullor full-bodied wines, stunningly richin fruit and oak, with intensecedarwood and tobacco overtones,yet subtle, seductive, and full offinesse. These are wines of greatquality, longevity, and complexity.
gCabernet Sauvignon 65%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 5%
k15–40 yearsWHITE Even better than the red,but produced in frustratingly smallquantities, this star-bright, intenselyflavored dry wine is almost fat withexotic fruit and epitomizes finesse.
gSauvignon 70%, Sémillon 30%
k8–20 years
CHÂTEAU CHICANEToulenne
Château Chicane is one of thechâteaux that produce only redwine. It is typical of the largenumber of properties in the area that consistently make anexcellent basic Graves. Here is an elegant, medium-bodied redwine, with a bouquet of violets, and heaps of clean, silky-smooth fruit.
CLOS FLORIDÈNEPujols-sur-CironccV
Owned by Bordeaux’s white wine revolutionary, DenisDubourdieu, who is producing a sensational dry white Graves(Sémillon 70 percent, Sauvignon 30 percent) from this small estate.The red Clos Floridène (CabernetSauvignon 80%, Merlot 20%)possesses an extraordinarycombination of rich fruit andelegant new oak, and is theequivalent of a top cru classé.
Second wine: Second de Floridène
CLOS SAINT-GEORGESIllatscV
This property produces a smallamount of red Graves, but is mostfamous for its scintillating sweetGraves Supérieur. A stunningly richand flavorsome wine, full of botrytiscomplexity.
CHÂTEAU COUHINSVillenave-d’Ornon
Cru Classé (white only)
The Institut National de LaRécherche Agronomique (INRA) andLucien Lurton share this estate.INRA produces a separate wine,which is cool fermented with nomaturation in wood.
WHITE Clean, crisp, and fruity drywhite wines that are well made.
gSauvignon 50%, Sémillon 50%
k2–4 yearsNote Château also produces a redGraves, but it is not a cru classé.
CHÂTEAU COUHINS-LURTON
Villenave-d’Ornon
Cru Classé (white only)cbV
The highest-performing half of theCouhins estate owned by AndréLurton. The wine is fermented andmatured in 100 percent new oak.
WHITE Delicious dry wines thathave all the advantages of freshnessand fruitiness, plus the complexityof oak. Surprisingly fat for pureSauvignon.
gSauvignon 100%
k3–8 yearsSecond wine: Château Cantebau
CHÂTEAU DE CRUZEAU
St.-Médard-d’EyransbV
Situated on a high, south-facingcrest of deep, gravel soil, thisproperty belongs to André Lurton,owner of Château Couhins-Lurton,the high-performance white Graves cru classé. De Cruzeaumakes 18,000 cases of full-bodiedred Graves (Cabernet Sauvignon 60 percent, Merlot 40 percent) thatis ripe and velvety with a spicy-cedarwood complexity.
This château also produces around5,000 cases of a fine-quality whiteGraves (Sauvignon 90 percent,Sémillon 10 percent) that after some five years of maturationdevelops an intense citrous bouquet and flavor.
CHÂTEAU FERRANDE
Castres
A large property that, like so manyin Graves, makes better red winethan white. The red wine (CabernetSauvignon 35 percent, Merlot 35percent, Cabernet Franc 30 percent)is a consistently good-quality,chocolaty Graves that is matured in
wood for 15 to 18 months, with 10to 15 percent new oak. The drywhite Graves (Sémillon 60 percent,Sauvignon 35 percent, Muscadelle5 percent) is somewhat lessinspiring.
CHÂTEAU DE FIEUZAL
LéognanCru Classé (red only)
cc
This property occupies the highestand best exposed gravel crest in the commune. The vineyard and the château are immaculate, whichis reflected in the style of its wines.
RED A deeply colored, full-bodied, rich, stylish wine withtypical Graves silky texture andample finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 30%, Malbec 5%, Petit Verdot 5%
k12–30 yearsSecond wine: L’Abeille de Fieuzal
Note De Fieuzal also produces a rich,exotic, and oaky dry white wine thatis not cru classé, yet is one of thefinest white Graves produced.
GRAND ENCLOS DUCHÂTEAU DE CÉRONS
CéronscbV
This property, entirely enclosed bya wall, once formed the largest partof the estate of Château de Cérons.The wines produced here—farsuperior to those of Château deCérons, and possibly the best of theappellation—are fat and rich, withgood aging potential and somecomplexity. The proprietor alsomakes dry white wines at nearbyChâteau Lamouroux.
DOMAINE DE LA GRAVE
PortetscV
Formerly owned by maestro PeterVinding-Diers, the Danish-born,Australian-trained winemaker whoisolated the famous “RZ” yeaststrain. Vinding-Diers sold thisproperty along with Landiras to Van Quikelberg in 1998. The winesare for medium-term consumption,with a very soft, vibrantly fruity,easy-to-drink red and a lovely oak-aged white.
CHÂTEAU HAURAIllats
Château Haura produces winesunder the Cérons appellation.Although not as consistent as itshould be, it can sometimesproduce a fine, honey-sweet winewith some distinction andconcentration. The residence on this property is known as ChâteauHillot and red and dry white Graves are sold under this namethat come from vines contiguouswith those of Haura. The proprietor also owns Château Tucau in Barsac.
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CHÂTEAU LANDIRASLandiras
Mr. and Mrs. van Quikelbergpurchased this property in 1998.Production is four-fifths white andpotentially of cru classé quality.
CHÂTEAU LARRIVET-HAUT-BRION
Léognancc
Originally called Château Canolle,the name was at one point changedto Château Haut-Brion-Larrivet.Larrivet is a small stream that flowsthrough the property, and Haut-Brion means “high gravel,” referringto the gravel plateau west ofLéognan on which the vineyard issituated.
Château Haut-Brion took legalaction over the renaming, and since1941 the property and its wineshave been known as ChâteauLarrivet-Haut-Brion. The red wine(Cabernet Sauvignon 55 percent,Merlot 45 percent), which ismatured in wood for 18 monthswith 25 percent new oak, iscertainly cru classé standard, beinga well-colored and full-bodiedGraves with good flavor, spicy-cedarwood undertones, and a firmtannic structure. The white wine(Sauvignon Blanc 85 percent,Sémillon 15 percent) has leapt inquality since 1996.
CHÂTEAU LAVILLE-HAUT-BRION
TalenceCru Classé (white only)
cc
Since 1983, this small vineyard hasbeen owned by Clarence Dillon,American proprietor of ChâteauHaut-Brion. This “château with nochâteau” is thought of as the whitewine of La Mission. The wine isfermented and matured in cask.
WHITE Until 1982, the style wasfull, rich, oaky, and exuberant,tending to be more honeyed andspicy with a floral finesse since1983. Both styles are stunning andcomplex.
gSauvignon 60%, Sémillon 40%
k6–20 years
CHÂTEAU LA LOUVIÈRELéognanccV
Part of André Lurton’s Gravesempire, this château has made aclear about-face since 1985 as far asthe quality of its red wine goes. Astring of dull, lifeless vintages hascome to an end with the beautiful,deep, and vividly colored wines ofthe years 1985 and 1986. There wasanother step up in quality in themid-1990s, since when this hasbeen a truly splendid, full-bodiedred Graves that is rich in spicy-blackcurranty fruit and new oak(Cabernet Sauvignon 70 percent,Merlot 20 percent, Cabernet Franc10 percent). The white wines ofChâteau La Louvière have always
been excellent, but even here therehas been a gigantic leap in quality.These are exciting and complexwines that deserve to be among thevery best crus classés.
Second wine: Château Coucheroy
Other wines: “L” de Louvière (drywhite), Château Les Agunelles,Château Cantebau, Château Clos-du-Roy, Château Le Vieux-Moulin
CHÂTEAU MAGENCESt.-Pierre-de-Mons
bV
A good property making 5,000 casesof a supple, well-perfumed, redwine (Cabernet Sauvignon 40percent, Cabernet Franc 30 percent,Merlot 30 percent) and 10,000 casesof attractive, aromatic, cool-fermented dry white Graves(Sauvignon 64 percent, Sémillon 36percent).
CHÂTEAU MALARTIC-LAGRAVIÈRE
LéognanCru Classé (red and white)
cc
This 50-acre (20-hectare) vineyardforms a single block around thechâteau. An underrated property,which has consistently producedmuch higher quality wines since the1980s. The red wine is fermented instainless steel at a low temperature(61°F/16°C), and matured in woodfor 20 to 22 months, with one-thirdnew oak. The white wine is nowmatured in 100 percent new oak forseven to eight months.
RED Rich, garnet-colored with anopulent sweet-oak nose, penetratingflavor, and supple tannin structure.
gCabernet Sauvignon 50%,Cabernet Franc 25%, Merlot 25%
k7–25 yearsWHITE Recent vintages of this oncelackluster white Graves prove theworth of new oak. It is not difficultto mistake this honey-rich, ripe, andsucculent wine for pure Sémillon.
gSauvignon 100%
k5–12 years
CHÂTEAU MAYNE-BINETCérons
Proprietor Jean Perromat also ownsseveral other châteaux, namely DeCérons, De Bessanes, Ferbos, andFerbos-Lalanette in Cérons andChâteau Prost in Barsac. At Mayne-Binet he produces a fine sweetwhite Cérons.
CHÂTEAU MILLETPortets
cV(red only)
The red is a deep, dark-coloredwine made in a traditional stylewith a dense flavor of concentratedspicy fruit. Although it has a firmtannin structure, this quickly roundsout with a few years in bottle.There is a dry white Graves, but itlacks the boldness and character ofthe red.
Other wine: Château Du Clos Renon
CHÂTEAU LA MISSION-HAUT-BRION
Pessac
Cru Classé (red only)ccb
Under the ownership of HenriWoltner, this was the pretender tothe throne of Graves. Little wonder,then, that Clarence Dillon of Haut-Brion snapped it up when theopportunity arose in 1983. The redwine is matured in wood for 24months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED Despite different winemakingtechniques, Dillon’s La Mission is noless stunning than Woltner’s. Bothstyles are deeper, darker, anddenser than any other wine Gravescan manage. They are essentiallypowerful wines that require greatbottle-age, but they do lack finesse.
k15–45 yearsSecond wine: La Chapelle de laMission-Haut-Brion
CHÂTEAU OLIVIERLéognan
Cru Classé (red and white)b
There has never been any doubtabout this château’s terroir, whichhas as much potential as any Gravescru classé, but it was one of theappellation’s most disappointingproducers until 1990. Since thenprogress has been agonizingly slowand patchy, but recent vintageshave revived hopes that thisremains a château to watch. The redwine is matured in wood for 18months; the white wine up to threemonths, with 100 percent new oak.
RED The fruit is now easier-drinking and the oak, which used tobe aggressive, more supple andcreamy.
gCabernet Sauvignon 70%,Merlot 30%
WHITE This wine actually began tosparkle as early as 1985, with somequite outstanding vintages in the1990s, since when has been anadded freshness, real fruit flavor,and some positive characterdeveloping.
gSémillon 65%, Sauvignon 30%,Muscadelle 5%
k3–7 years
CHÂTEAU PAPE-CLÉMENT
PessacCru Classé (red only)
cc
After a disastrous period in the1970s and early 1980s, Pape-Clément began to improve in 1985and 1986, due to stricter selection ofthe grand vin and the introductionof a Second Wine. Some critics ratethese two vintages highly, and theywere very good wines, but whenexamined in the context of theenormous potential of this vineyard,my brain tells me they were not at
CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLYLéognan
Cru Classé (red only)ccbV
This château’s well-kept vineyard islocated on an excellent gravel crestbordering the eastern suburbs ofLéognan. This red Graves ismatured in wood for up to 20months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED The class of fruit and qualityof new oak is immediatelynoticeable on the creamy-ripe noseof this medium-bodied wine. Neverblock-busting stuff, but alwayselegant and stylish.
In 1663 this famous château wasmentioned in Pepys’s Diary as “Ho Bryan.” It has been underAmerican ownership since 1935,when it was purchased by ClarenceDillon, the banker. The parentcompany is called DomaineClarence Dillon, and Dillon’sgranddaughter, the Duchesse deMouchy, is the president. JeanDelmas is the technical director. Thered wine is fermented in stainlesssteel and matured in wood for 24 to27 months, with 100 percent newoak. The white wine is fermentedand matured in 100 percent new oak.
RED This supple, stylish, medium- to full-bodied wine has a surprisingly dense flavor for theweight, and a chocolaty-violetcharacter. The ideal commercialproduct, it develops quickly andages gracefully.
gCabernet Sauvignon 55%,Merlot 25%, Cabernet Franc 20%
k10–40 yearsSecond wine: tBahans-Haut-Brion
WHITE This is not one of thebiggest white Graves, but it is builtto last. It is sumptuous, oaky, andteeming with citrous and moreexotic fruit flavors.
gSauvignon 50%, Sémillon 50%
k5–20 years
CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE
MartillacCru Classé (red only)
cbV
This château has 124 acres (50hectares) of fine vineyards. MichelRolland consults on the reds andChristophe Olivier on the whites;reputation and quality are soaring.The red wine matures in wood for18 months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED These wines are now in aricher style with creamy-oakundertones and up-front fruit,.
gCabernet Sauvignon 69%,Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc 11%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Les Hauts-de-Smith-Haut-Lafitte
Note A white Graves is also made. Itis not a cru classé, yet ironically nowconsidered one of the finest whitewines in Pessac-Léognan.
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR-HAUT-BRIONTalence Cru Classé (red only)
cc
This château is situated close toChâteau La Mission-Haut-Brion. By1980 wine sold under the label ofthis château was merely regarded asthe Second Wine of Château LaMission-Haut-Brion. All the grapesfrom both vineyards were vinifiedtogether, and the two wines made
THE WINE PRODUCERS OF
SAUTERNES AND BARSAC
104 F R A N C E
CHÂTEAU D�ARCHESauternes
2ème Cru ClassécV
This property dates from 1530. Itwas known as Cru de Bran-Eyreuntil it was bought by the Comted’Arche in the 18th century. It hasbeen inconsistent. The wine sees upto 50 percent new oak.
WHITE The successful Châteaud’Arche is an elegantly balancedwine that is more in the style of
Barsac than Sauternes. It is sweet,rich, and has complex botrytisflavors, which often puts it on parwith a premier cru, although it isless plump than most Sauternes.Easily equivalent to a classedgrowth in quality and the Crème deTête is even better.
gSémillon 80%, Sauvignon 15%,Muscadelle 5%
k8–25 yearsSecond wine: Cru de Braneyre
Other wine: d’Arche-Lafaurie
CHÂTEAU BASTOR-LAMONTAGNE
PreignacbV
A large property that deservesdeuxième cru status. The wine ismatured in wood for up to 36months, with 10 to 15 percent newoak. Lighter years such as 1980,1982, and 1985 lack botrytis but aresuccessful in an attractive mellow,citrus style. Big years such as 1983lack nothing: the wines are full,
rich, and stylish with concentratedbotrytis flavor and ample class.1989, 1990, 1996, 1997, 1998, and1999 all very successful.
Second wine: Les Remparts duBastor
CHÂTEAU BOUYOTBarsaccbV
Jammy Fonbeney, the winemaker atthis little-known property, isproducing some stunning wines that
all special, even if my heart wantsthem to be.
The trio of 1988, 1989, and 1990wines turned out to be the best thischâteau has produced since 1953,although they are nowhere near asgreat and still not special at the veryhighest level of Graves wine.However, even in the string oflesser vintages Bordeauxexperienced in the early 1990s,Pape-Clément managed to producegood wines, and with 1995, 1996,1998, and 1999, it has truly regainedthe reputation of its former gloryyears. The red wine from thischâteau is matured in wood for 24months, with a minimum of 50percent new oak.
RED Medium-bodied wines ofexcellent deep color, a distinctivestyle, and capable of much finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 67%,Merlot 33%
Second Wine: Le Clémentin
Note This château also produces alittle non-cru classé white Graves,made from equal proportions ofSémillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle.
CHÂTEAU RAHOUL
Portets
The wine produced by ChâteauRahoul is not quite as exciting as itwas in the 1980s, when theproperty was home to—althoughnever owned by—the maestro, PeterVinding-Diers (see Domaine de laGraves and Château Landiras).However, both red and white winesare still reliable sources of verygood value oak-aged Graves.
Second wine: Château Constantin
Other wine: Petit Rahoul
CHÂTEAU RESPIDE-MÉDEVILLE
ToulennecV
Christian Médeville, the manresponsible for Château Gilette, therising star of Sauternes, producesexcellent wines here using a totallydifferent wine philosophy. Both thered and the white are fine examplesof the best of modern vinificationcombined with new oak. The red is
a well-colored wine with rich, ripefruit, some spice, and a creamy,new-oak aftertaste, good for earlydrinking. The white is a rich,creamy-vanilla concoction with soft,succulent fruit and a fat finish.
CHÂTEAU DUROCHEMORIN
MartillacbV
Originally called “La Roche Morine,”(the Moorish rock) this estate has ahistory that extends at least as farback as the eighth century, whenBordeaux was defended by theMoors from attacking Saracens.Another château belonging to AndréLurton, Rochemorin produces a fine,elegant, fruity red Graves that iswell0balanced and has a good spicyfinish (Cabernet Sauvignon 60percent, Merlot 40 percent).Rochemorin also produces a veryclean and correct dry white Graves.
CHÂTEAUDE ROQUETAILLADE-
LA-GRANGEMazèrescbV
This is a very old property, thatproduces some 12,000 cases of anattractive, well-colored red Gravesthat has an aromatic bouquet and a delicious spicy-cassis flavor. This wine is made from Merlot 40 percent, Cabernet Sauvignon 25 percent, Cabernet Franc 25percent, Malbec 5 percent, and Petit Verdot 5 percent. Its firm,tannic structure means it maturesgracefully over 15 or more years.The white wine, which is madefrom Sémillon 80 percent,Sauvignon 20 percent, is lesssuccessful.
Second wine: Château de Carolle
Other wines: Château deRoquetaillade-le-Bernet
CHÂTEAU DU SEUILCérons
Up-and-coming Graves propertyproducing fine, elegant reds andfruity, oak-aged whites, bothproving to be of increasinglyexcellent value.
by selection. However, afteracquisition by Domaine ClarenceDillon in 1983, some 11 acres (4.5hectares) of vines were delimited asChâteau La Tour-Haut-Brion, andfrom 1984 all its wines can be saidto be from one specific site. Thewine is matured in wood for 24months, with 50 percent new oak.
RED This very dark, tannic, full-bodied wine is full of chocolaty,tannic fruit above an earthy-smokybitterness of undeveloped extract.Despite its awesome attack of flavorit shows great finesse.
gCabernet Sauvignon 60%,Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 10%
k20–40 years
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR-MARTILLAC
MartillacCru Classé (red and white)
cb
This property has its own herd ofcattle to supply manure for thechâteau’s strictly “organic” wine. Itsred wine is not as consistent as thevery best Graves and tends to lackcharm in cask. These factors make itan underrated wine. It is matured inwood for 18 to 22 months with one-third new oak. The white isfermented in stainless steel andmatured in 100 percent new oak.
RED Not big or bold wines withimmediate appeal; the reds areelegant with some finesse. The fruitin recent vintages has tended to bea bit plumper, but it is in bottle thatthese wines take on richness,developing creamy-oak flavor.
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Château La Grave-Martillac
WHITE The stunning 1986 vintageheralded a new era of exciting drywhites. This is very fresh, elegantwine, the fruit gently balanced bycomplex nuances of oak.
gSémillon 55%, Sauvignon 35%,Muscadelle 3%, old diversevarieties 7%
k4–8 years
Under the ownership of BéréniceLurton, this property has long beenconsidered one of the top wines ofboth appellations. The wine ismatured in wood for 24 monthswith up to one-third new oak.
WHITE The fattest of Barsacs, yetits superb acidity and characteristiccitrous style give it an amazinglyfresh and zippy balance. This winehas masses of creamy-ripe botrytisfruit supported by good cinnamonand vanilla-oak flavors.
gSémillon 98%, Sauvignon 2%
k10–40 yearsSecond wine: Les Cyprès deClimens
CHÂTEAU CLOS HAUT-PEYRAGUEY
Bommes1er Cru Classé
cc
Originally part of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, this property has beenowned by the Pauly family since1934. A good dose of sulfur dioxide used to be the method of stopping fermentation at ClosHaut-Peyragey and the bouquet was often marred by an excess of sulfur. Thankfully, this has not been evident since the 1985 vintage,when coincidentally, the winesbegan to benefit from some newoak. The wine is now matured inwood for 18 months, with up to 25 percent new oak.
WHITE This wine now flaunts apositively eloquent bouquet, andhas a rich flavor with complexbotrytis creamy-oak nuances—very stylish.
gSémillon 83%, Sauvignon 15%,Muscadelle 2%
k8–25 yearsSecond wine: Château Haut-Bommes
CHÂTEAU COUTETBarsac
1er Cru Classécc
This château is usually rated a closesecond to Climens, but in fact it iscapable of matching it in somevintages and its occasionalproduction of tiny quantities of têtede cuvée called “Cuvée Madame”often surpasses it. It is fermentedand matured for 24 months in caskwith 30 to 50 percent new oak. Thedry white “Vin Sec” is an AOCGraves and very disappointing.
WHITE This wine has a creamyvanilla-and-spice bouquet, an
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initially delicate richness that buildson the palate, good botrytischaracter, and oaky fruit.
gSémillon 75%, Sauvignon 23%,Muscadelle 2%
k8–25 years (15–40 years forCuvée Madame)
Other wines: Cuvée Madame, Vin Sec du Château Coutet
CHÂTEAU DOISY-DAËNE
Barsac2ème Cru Classé
ccV
Owner Pierre Dubourdieu coolferments this wine in stainless steel until the desired balance ofalcohol and sweetness is achieved,and then matures it in 100 percentnew oak for a short while. Thewine also undergoes various low-sulfur techniques. The result is a wine equal to a Barsac premier cru.
WHITE This is a wine of greatfloral freshness and elegance, with a delightful honeyed fragrance ofdeliciously sweet fruit, delicatebotrytis character, hints of creamyoak, and perfect balance.
gSémillon 100%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Château Cantegril
Other wine: Vin Sec de Doisy-Daëne
CHÂTEAU DOISY-DUBROCA
Barsac2ème Cru Classé
This property is run in conjunctionwith Climens, and is the smallestpart of the original Doisy estate. But the wine, although consistent, is not in the same class as Doisy-Daëne, let alone Climens. It is matured in cask for 24 to 30 months with 25 percent new oak.
gSémillon 90%, Sauvignon 10%
k6–15 yearsSecond wine: La Demoiselle deDoisy
CHÂTEAU DOISY-VÉDRINES
Barsac2ème Cru Classé
cbV
This is the original and largest of the three Doisy châteaux. It isowned by Pierre Castéja, the headof Bordeaux négociant RogerJoanne. The wine is matured inwood for 18 months with one-third new oak.
WHITE This wine was somewhatlackluster until 1983, since when ithas exploded with character. Rich,ripe, and oaky, with a concentratedbotrytis complexity.
gSémillon 80%, Sauvignon 20%
k8–25 yearsOther wine: Château La Tour-Védrines
CHÂTEAU DE FARGUESFarguescc
The eerie ruin of Château deFargues is the ancestral home of the Lur-Saluces family. The smallproduction of ultrahigh-quality wineis made by essentially the samefastidious methods as Yquem,including fermentation andmaturation in 100 percent new oak.It is powerful and viscous, very rich,succulent, and complex, with a fat,toasty character (Sémillon 80percent, Sauvignon 20 percent).Easily equivalent to a classedgrowth.
CHÂTEAU FILHOTSauternes
2ème Cru Classéb
The beautiful Château Filhot wasbuilt between 1780 and 1850. Thissplendid château has a potentiallygreat vineyard that consistentlyproduces boring wine. Investment isrequired on a large scale in nearlyevery department: the proportion ofSémillon should be increased, thenumber of tries should be increased,the wine should contain morebotrytized grapes and should bematured in cask, with some new oak.
WHITE At best these are well-made, simply fruity, and sweet.
gSémillon 60%, Sauvignon 37%,Muscadelle 3%
CHÂTEAU GILETTEPreignacc
Christian Médeville rejects modernmarketing methods, preferringinstead to keep his precious nectar(made from Sémillon 94 percent,Sauvignon 4 percent, Muscadelle 2percent) in vats under anaerobicconditions for an amazing 20 yearsbefore bottling and selling it. TheCrème de Tête is premier cruquality with a powerful bouquetand intense flavor of liquorice andpeaches and cream, followed by along barley-sugar aftertaste. TheCrème de Tête deserves cc, but Iam less impressed with ChâteauGilette’s regular bottlings (if, indeed,any bottling at this property can beso described!).
CHÂTEAU GUIRAUDSauternes
1er Cru Classécc
This property has been on the upsince 1981, when the Narby familyof Canada purchased it. The château
deserve recognition. They haveclassic Barsac elegance, light inbody, but not in flavor, with richpineapple and creamy botrytis fruit,some spice, and fine length.
CHÂTEAU BROUSTETBarsac 2ème Cru Classé
cV
The wine produced at ChâteauBroustet is matured in wood for 20months with what was until recentlyjust 10 percent new oak, but thisincreased to 40 percent after the1986 vintage.
WHITE Chateau Broustet can be adelightful wine, with a fruit-salad-and-cream taste, a very elegantbalance, and some spicy-botrytiscomplexity.
gSémillon 63%, Sauvignon 25%,Muscadelle 12%
k8–25 yearsSecond wine: Château de Ségur
CHÂTEAU CAILLOUBarsac
2ème Cru ClassécbV
This château gets its name from thecailloux, the stones that are broughtto the surface during plowing.These have been used to enclosethe entire 37-acre (15-hectare)vineyard and to provide hardcorefor the tennis courts. Mr. Bravo, theowner, has run out of uses but he isstill churning them up. This is notone of the better-known deuxièmescrus, but it consistently produceswines of a very high standard, andso deserves to be.
WHITE A rich, ripe, and spicy-sweet Barsac with concentratedbotrytis flavors underscored byrefined oak. Not the fattest ofBarsacs, but made in the richerrather than lighter style.
gSémillon 90%, Sauvignon 10%
k8–30 yearsSecond wine: Petit-Mayne
Other wines: Cru du Clocher (red),Château Caillou Sec (dry white),Rosé St.-Vincent (dry rosé)
CHÂTEAU DE LACHARTREUSE
PreignaccV
This is the same stunning wine asChâteau Saint-Amande, but under adifferent exclusive label. See alsoChâteau Saint-Amande.
CHÂTEAU CLIMENSBarsac
1er Cru Classéccb
and vineyards were in a veryrundown state. Narby dug up muchof the Sauvignon and plantedSémillon, then totally reequippedthe winery and renovated thechâteau. Only Yquem is on as highground as Guiraud and sincedrainage is a key factor affecting thequality of the greatest Sauternes,where heavy clay soils dominate,the potential for this wine is veryexciting and one that has beenskillfully exploited with the help ofXavier Plantey, ex-manager ofChâteau la Gaffelière. The wine ismatured in wood for 30 monthswith at least 50 percent new oak.The first vintages of the dry whiteVin Blanc Sec “G” were dull, butsubsequent efforts have improved.
WHITE After two dismal decades,great Sauternes arrived at thischâteau with the classic 1983vintage, the first true botrytis wineunder Narby’s ownership. Guiraudis now plump with Sémillon fruitand fat with botrytis character. Adeliciously sweet wine withluxuriant new oak, complexity, andconsiderable finesse.
gSémillon 70%, Sauvignon 30%
k12–35 yearsSecond wine: Le Dauphin
Other wine: Vin Blanc Sec “G” (drywhite)
CHATEAU HAUT-BOMMESBommes
The owner, Jacques Pauly, prefersto live here rather than at hispremier cru Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey. Occasionally the wineused to excel for an unclassifiedgrowth; the recent improvements atChâteau Clos Haut-Peyraguey augurwell for the future.
CHÂTEAU LES JUSTICES
PreignaccV
Under the same ownership as thestar-performing Château Gilette, buthere Christian Médeville gives hiswines only four years of aging invats. Les Justices is a consistentwine of excellent quality that isriper and fruitier than Gilette andthe equivalent of a deuxième cru.
CHATEAU LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY
Bommes1er Cru ClasséccbV
As with Cordier properties, thiswine shows remarkable consistency.It is matured in wood for between18 and 20 months with up to 50
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percent new oak.
WHITE The combination of botrytisand oak is like pineapples andpeaches and cream in this elegantwine that keeps fresh and retains anincredibly light color in old age.
gSémillon 98%, Sauvignon 2%
k8–30 years
CHÂTEAU LAMOTHE-DESPUJOLS
Sauternes2ème Cru Classé
In 1961 the Lamothe vineyard wassplit in two. The section belongingto Jean Despujols has been the mostdisappointing half up until the 1985vintage, but it has really come intoits own since 1990.
WHITE Fuller, richer, and sweeterthan previously expected, and in anoily, fuller-bodied style, with overtlyattractive tropical fruit character.
gSémillon 70%, Sauvignon 20%,Muscadelle 10%
CHÂTEAU LAMOTHE-GUIGNARD
Sauternes2ème Cru Classé
bV
The Guignards are really trying toachieve something with their sectionof the Lamothe vineyard. It wascalled Lamothe-Bergey until thename was changed in 1981. Thewine is matured in wood for 24months with 20 percent new oak.
WHITE Rich, spicy, andconcentrated wines of full body andgood botrytis character.
gSémillon 85%, Muscadelle 10%,Sauvignon 5%
k7–20 years
CHÂTEAU LIOTBarsacbV
This wine is elegant, with light butfine botrytis character and creamyvanilla of new oak—probably theequivalent of a deuxième cru inquality and is excellent value.Owner Jean-Nicol David alsoproduces Château Saint-Jean, a drywhite Graves, and Château Pinsas, afruity red Graves.
CHÂTEAU DE MALLEPreignac
2ème Cru Classé
Dry white wine is produced underthe “Chevalier de Malle” label, andred Graves from contiguousvineyards under the Château duCardaillan label. While this vineyarddoes not shine every year (1989 and1990 are its best-ever vintages),when it does, it can be superbvalue.
WHITE These are firm, well-concentrated wines often influencedmore by passerillage than botrytis.Delicious, rich, and luscious.
gSémillon 75%, Sauvignon 22%,Muscadelle 3%
k7–20 years
Sauvignon 25 percent, Muscadelle5 percent) has a typically elegantbalance and is certainly a wine towatch.
CHÂTEAU RABAUD-PROMISBommes
1er Cru Classécb
The wines of this once-grandproperty used to be awful. It wassad to see the vineyard, château,and wine so neglected. What a joyto witness such a dramatic change.It began with the 1983; and thevintages are now something special.
WHITE A lovely gold-colored winewith full, fat, and ripe botrytischaracter on the bouquet and palate.
gSémillon 80%, Sauvignon 18%,Muscadelle 2%
k8–25 years
CHÂTEAU RAYMOND-LAFONSauternes
As I wrote in the last edition, it iseasy to understand how people canget carried away by the idea of avineyard so close to Yquem asRaymond-Lafon, especially when itsowner, Pierre Meslier, was régisseurat Yquem. This was, however, anoverrated and overpriced wine inthe mid-1980s, and although thingshave improved since the 1989 and1990 vintages, it is performing atonly deuxième cru level and isconsequently overrated andoverpriced. Now that the style hasbeen cleaned up and plumped out,Raymond-Lafon (Sémillon 80percent, Sauvignon 20 percent) is anice Sauternes, but not worth threetimes the price of Rieussec or two-and-a-half times as much as Climens.
CHÂTEAU RAYNE-VIGNEAU
Bommes1er Cru Classé
c
The quality of Rayne-Vigneau hadplummeted to dismal depths until asrecently as 1985. The wine is nowmatured in wood for 24 monthswith 50 percent new oak. It has ahigher Sémillon content than thestatistics would suggest, due to the5,000 cases of dry Sauvignon Blancthat are sold as “Rayne Sec.”
WHITE Château Rayne-Vigneau isnow a very high-quality wine thathas an elegant peachy ripeness toits botrytis character.
gSémillon 65%, Sauvignon 35%
k8–25 yearsSecond wine: Clos l’Abeilley
Other wines: Rayne Sec
CHÂTEAU RIEUSSSECFargues
1er Cru Classéccb
This fine property promises tomake even better wine since itsacquisition by Domaines Rothschildin 1984. None of the Sauvignon
Second wine: Château St.-Hélène
Other wine: Chevalier de Malle
CHÂTEAU DU MAYNEBarsacV
There is a good proportion of oldvines at this property which addsconcentration and weight to thesewines, which are fatter than thenorm for Barsac. Owned by theSanders family of the splendidChâteau Haut-Bailly of Graves.
CHÂTEAU MÉNOTABarsacV
This quaint old property—with itshistoric towers and ramparts—hasexported its wines to England sincethe 16th century. Château Ménotaproduces very good Barsac, despitethe unusually high proportion ofSauvignon Blanc (60 percent).
CHATEAU NAIRACBarsac
2ème Cru Classécb
Tom Heeter established the practiceof fermenting and maturing hiswine in up to 100 percent newoak—Nevers for vanilla andLimousin for backbone—and hisperfectionist ex-wife, Nicole Tari,has continued this format with greatsuccess.
WHITE These are rich and oakywines that require ample aging toshow true finesse. With enoughbottle maturity the tannin andvanilla harmonize with the fruit, andthe rich botrytis complexity emerges.
gSémillon 90%, Sauvignon 6%,Muscadelle 4%
k8–25 years
CHÂTEAU PERNAUDBarsaccV
This property was once part of theSauvage d’Yquem estate. It was thenowned by the Lur-Saluces family,but was abandoned after the oidiumfungus devastated Bordeaux in thelate 18th century. It has beencompletely replanted and renovated,and is now building up somethingof a reputation. This slightly richerstyle of Barsac (Sémillon 70 percent,
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CHÂTEAU ROUMIEUBarsaccV
This property, which borders theclassified growths of Climens andDoisy-Védrines, has producedluscious sweet wines of a richerthan normal style in some vintages(Sémillon 90 percent, Sauvignon 10percent).
CHÂTEAU ROUMIEU-LACOSTE
BarsaccV
A Dubourdieu property producingconsistently fine Barsac (Sémillon 80percent, Sauvignon 20 percent) withgood botrytis concentration.
CHÂTEAU SAINT-AMANDE
PreignaccV
An elegant and stylish wine(Sémillon 67 percent, Sauvignon 33percent) that is very attractive whenyoung, yet some vintages havepotentially excellent longevity andare often equivalent to a classedgrowth in quality. Part of theproduction of this property is soldunder the Château de la Chartreuselabel.
Second wine: Château de laChartreuse
CHÂTEAU SIGALAS-RABAUD
Bommes1er Cru Classé
cb
This is the largest part of theoriginal Rabaud estate. Theproprietor contracted Cordier tomanage this property as from 1995and the wines have already showna marked improvement.
WHITE A stylish early-drinkingwine with an elegant botrytisbouquet and deliciously fresh fruiton the palate.
gSémillon 85%, Sauvignon 15%
k6–15 years
CHÂTEAU SIMONBarsac
2ème Cru Classé
A combination of modern andtraditional methods produces amildly sweet wine from Sémillon 70percent, Sauvignon 30 percent. MostSauternes and Barsacs are aged inNevers or Limousin oak. SometimesAllier is used, but at Simon theymature the wine in Merrain oak fortwo years.
CHÂTEAU SUAUBarsac
2ème Cru Classé
The vineyard belongs to RogerBiarnès, who makes the wine at hisChâteau Navarro in Cérons becausethe château is under differentownership. These wines do nothave a particularly high reputation,but if the attractive wine produced
in the very modest 1980 vintage isanything to go by it is worth givingthem the benefit of the doubt.
WHITE The 1980 is an attractive,fresh, and fragrantly fruity wine witha gentle citrous-and-spice botrytiscomplexity.
gSémillon 80%, Sauvignon 10%,Muscadelle 10%
k6–12 years
CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT
Preignac1er Cru Classéccb
This splendid 17th-century château,with its picturesque parkland,effectively evokes the gracefulbeauty found in its luscious wines.Suduiraut’s superb 245-acre (100-hectare) vineyard enjoys a goodsusceptibility to “noble rot,” andadjoins that of Yquem. The wineswent through an inconsistent patchin the 1980s, but have improveddramatically under the watchful eyeof Jean-Michel Cazes’s AXAinsurance group. The wines arefermented and matured in cask for24 months, with at least one-thirdnew oak.
WHITE Soft, succulent, andsublime, this is an intensely sweetwine of classic stature. It is rich,ripe, and viscous, with great botrytiscomplexity that benefits from goodbottle-age.
gSémillon 80%, Sauvignon 20%
k8–35 yearsSecond wine: Castelnau deSuduiraut
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR BLANCHE
Sauternes1er Cru Classé
cb
This property was placed at thehead of the premiers crus in 1855,when only Yquem was deemed tobe superior, but until relativelyrecently it failed to live up to thisreputation. Even at its lowest ebb,few critics would have denied thatthese vineyards possessed trulygreat potential, but the wines wereordinary. This was made all themore embarrassing by the fact thatthe state-owned La Tour Blanchewas a school of agriculture andoenology that was supposed toteach others how to makeSauternes. This depressing situationbegan to change, however, in themid-1980s when Château la TourBlanche started increasing theproportion of Sémillon, pickingmuch riper grapes, andimplementing stricter selection inboth vineyard and chais.Fermentation is in wood (with up to90 percent new oak but averaging25 percent in most years), and theresults have been exciting withexcellent wines produced in 1988,1989, 1990, (its greatest ever), 1994,1995, 1996, 1997, and 1998.
WHITE These are now so rich they
are almost fat and bursting withplump, ripe, juicy fruit and oodlesof complex botrytis character.
gSémillon 78%, Sauvignon 19%,Muscadelle 3%
k8–20 yearsSecond wine: Mademoiselle deSaint-Marc
CHÂTEAU D�YQUEMSauternes
1er Cru Supérieurccc
This most famous of all châteauxbelonged to the English crown from1152 to 1453. It then passed into thehands of Charles VII, King ofFrance. In 1593 Jacques de Sauvageacquired tenant’s rights to the royalproperty and in 1711 hisdescendants purchased the fiefdomof Yquem. In 1785 it passed into thehands of the Lur-Saluces family. Thetries tradition was kept alive atYquem when it was long forgottenby other noble châteaux. LikePétrus, one of Yquem’s “secrets” isits pickers. They are all skilled; theyknow what to pick and, just asimportant, what to leave. The gapbetween tries can vary from threedays to several weeks. Housing andfeeding 120 pickers for severalweeks of inactivity is not cheap.
The property has been run withpassionate care by succeedinggenerations, although LVMH (whichowns Moët & Chandon inChampagne) purchased a majorityshareholding in 1999 (after threeyears of acrimony betweenmembers of the Lur-Saluces family).Alexandre Lur-Saluces lost hisindependence, but won a handsomecontract to remain in his formerhome. He is still very much incharge
In 1972 the harvest consisted of11 tries spread over 71 days. In thatyear no wine was sold as Châteaud’Yquem. This is not to say thatYquem’s fastidious attention toselection and quality does not payoff in some poor vintages. But ingood years, because of the strictselection in the vineyard, theamount of wine that is finally usedis as high as 80 to 90 percent. Thewines are matured for up to 42months with 100 percent new oak.Other terroirs in Sauternes andBarsac are potentially comparable,but, no matter how conscientioustheir owners, none makes the samesacrifices as Yquem.
WHITE This wine represents theultimate in richness, complexity,and class. No other botrytis wine ofequal body and concentration has acomparable finesse, breeding, andbalance. Some of the characteristicaromas and flavors include peach,pineapple, coconut, nutmeg, andcinnamon, with toasty-creamyvanilla and caramel flavors ofnew oak.
gSémillon 80%, Sauvignon 20%
k20–60 yearsOther wines: “Y” de Châteaud’Yquem (dry white)
produced here is used for ChâteauRieussec (it goes in the “R”),effectively making the wine 96percent Sémillon. It is barrel-fermented and cask matured for 18to 30 months with 50 percent newoak.
WHITE This wine is one of therichest and most opulent ofSauternes, with intense pineapplefruit and a heavily botrytizedcharacter.
The château of this estate has beenturned into a hotel with a goodrestaurant, and is under separateownership. The vineyard of Châteaude Rolland belongs to Jean andPierre Guignard, who also own theexcellent Château de Roquetaillade-la-Grange at Mazères in Graves. Thewines (Sémillon 60 percent,Sauvignon 20 percent, Muscadelle20 percent) are fresh and elegantwith a particular emphasis on fruit.
CHÂTEAU ROMERFargues
2ème Cru Classé?
The original Romer estate wasdivided in 1881, and at just 13 acres(five hectares) this is the smallestpart. I have never come across thewine.
gSémillon 50%, Sauvignon 40%,Muscadelle 10%
CHÂTEAU ROMER-DU-HAYOT
Fargues2ème Cru Classé
V
Monsieur André du Hayot ownsthese 25 acres (10 hectares) of vineson a fine clayey-gravel crest thatwas once part of the original Romerestate. The wines are little seen, butrepresent very good value.
WHITE The 1980 and 1983 are inthe fresh, not oversweet, fruit-saladand cream style, with light botrytischaracter and an elegant balance.More recent vintages have not beentasted.