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Surf’s Up:Surf’s Up:Types of Surf BreaksTypes of Surf Breaks

Carrie AndersonCarrie AndersonC & I 515C & I 515

SU 2011SU 2011

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Reef BreakReef Break““Banzai Pipeline”Banzai Pipeline”North Shore, Oahu, HawaiiNorth Shore, Oahu, Hawaii

• A reef break is an area in the ocean where waves crash once they reach A reef break is an area in the ocean where waves crash once they reach

the shallows of a reef. the shallows of a reef.

• The The Banzai PipelineBanzai Pipeline, or simply , or simply "Pipeline""Pipeline" or or "Pipe,""Pipe," is located in Hawaii is located in Hawaii off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea on Oahu. off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea on Oahu.

• Pipeline is notorious and famous for its huge waves breaking in shallow Pipeline is notorious and famous for its huge waves breaking in shallow water just above its sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow and water just above its sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow and thick curls of water that surfers can ride inside of. Hence the term thick curls of water that surfers can ride inside of. Hence the term “barreled”. Pipeline is for experts only!!“barreled”. Pipeline is for experts only!!

courtesy of courtesy of WikipediaWikipedia

courtesy of courtesy of WikipediaWikipedia

Point BreakPoint Break“Swami’s”“Swami’s”Encinitas, CaliforniaEncinitas, California

• A point break is a wave created by the specific topography of the seabed.A point break is a wave created by the specific topography of the seabed.• Swami'sSwami's, also known as "Swamis", is an internationally known surfing spot, , also known as "Swamis", is an internationally known surfing spot,

known for its standout right point break. It is a major surfing destination, known for its standout right point break. It is a major surfing destination, especially during good swells in the winter months. Swami's was named especially during good swells in the winter months. Swami's was named after Swami Paramahansa Yogananda, because the grounds and hermitage after Swami Paramahansa Yogananda, because the grounds and hermitage of the Self-Realization Fellowship ashram, built in 1937, overlook this reef of the Self-Realization Fellowship ashram, built in 1937, overlook this reef point.point.

• Water temperature at this surf spot averages 65° F- surfers use light- Water temperature at this surf spot averages 65° F- surfers use light- medium thickness wetsuits. medium thickness wetsuits.

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Sand Bar/ Beach BreakSand Bar/ Beach Break“Needles”“Needles”Cannon Beach, OregonCannon Beach, Oregon

• A beach break is where waves break on a sandy seabed. A beach break is where waves break on a sandy seabed.

• ““Needles” is a cold-water surf spot, with a summer-high ocean Needles” is a cold-water surf spot, with a summer-high ocean temperature of 58°F and winter-low of 49°F. Thick 5-6mm neoprene temperature of 58°F and winter-low of 49°F. Thick 5-6mm neoprene wetsuits are required. wetsuits are required.

• ““Needles” has surf for both beginners and experts depending on the Needles” has surf for both beginners and experts depending on the swell and time of year: summer season is generally best for swell and time of year: summer season is generally best for beginners, and fall and spring is generally when the larger swells beginners, and fall and spring is generally when the larger swells

makemake for bigger waves.for bigger waves. courtesy of NODC/NOAAcourtesy of NODC/NOAA

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Tidal BoreTidal Bore“Ghost River”“Ghost River”Bono River, Sumatra, IndonesiaBono River, Sumatra, Indonesia

• Tidal bore waves occur when incoming tides push against the outflowing Tidal bore waves occur when incoming tides push against the outflowing river current, forming surfable waves that can travel for miles, and they exist river current, forming surfable waves that can travel for miles, and they exist in only a few locations around the world, including Alaska and the Amazon.in only a few locations around the world, including Alaska and the Amazon.

• This Indonesian bore of April 2011 was unprecedented in scale and wave-This Indonesian bore of April 2011 was unprecedented in scale and wave-forming ability as it coincided with an unusually large spring equinox tidal forming ability as it coincided with an unusually large spring equinox tidal swing that occurs once every 19 years. swing that occurs once every 19 years.

• Brazilian surfer Bruno Santos, who logged a 35-minute ride after being Brazilian surfer Bruno Santos, who logged a 35-minute ride after being towed in by supporting water craft, "People dream of experiences like this—towed in by supporting water craft, "People dream of experiences like this—it really is the perfect wave.“it really is the perfect wave.“

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Rivermouth Point BreakRivermouth Point Break“Nexpa”, “Barra de Nexpa”“Nexpa”, “Barra de Nexpa”Rio Nexpa, Rio Nexpa, Michoacán, MéxicoMichoacán, México

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• Rivermouth surf breaks are a type of Rivermouth surf breaks are a type of point break that occur at river outlets point break that occur at river outlets merging with the ocean.merging with the ocean.

• Rio Nexpa in Michoacan is a Rio Nexpa in Michoacan is a reasonably exposed point/rivermouth reasonably exposed point/rivermouth break that is usually a safe bet. break that is usually a safe bet. Summer offers the best conditions for Summer offers the best conditions for surfing. The best wind direction is surfing. The best wind direction is from the north northeast. Clean from the north northeast. Clean groundswells prevail and the best groundswells prevail and the best swell direction is from the southwest. swell direction is from the southwest. Good surf at all stages of the tide. Good surf at all stages of the tide. Often Crowded. Beware of rips and Often Crowded. Beware of rips and rocks.rocks.

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• This surf and traveler destination does This surf and traveler destination does not cater to those expecting hotels not cater to those expecting hotels and swimming pools. and swimming pools. ¡Qué maravillo!¡Qué maravillo!