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000 Map pages000 Photo pages
430
1905 Revolution 95, 335
AAbalak 164accommodation 378-9, see also
individual locationscosts 380
Achinsk 148acrobatics 316activities 20-1, 379-80, see also
individual activitiesin border regions 380
Aginskoe 227air travel
agencies 399internet resources 399to/from the region 394, 395within the region 398
Abalak Monastery 164Annunciation Monastery 133Intercession Convent 129Monastery of the Holy Martyrs 155Novodevichy Convent 70Pechorsky Monastery 133Saviour Monastery of St Euthymius
churches & cathedrals, see also Christian monasteries & convents
Annunciation Cathedral 67Archangel Cathedral 66
Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 63
Assumption Cathedral (Vladimir) 123-4
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 71Cathedral of St Dmitry 124Church of John the Baptist at
Tolchkovo 127Church of St Sophia 296Church of the Intercession on the
Nerl 126Church on Spilled Blood 102Church upon the Blood 149Kazansky Church 191Smolensk Cathedral 70SS Peter & Paul Cathedral 105St Basil’s Cathedral 68St Isaac’s Cathedral 103
cinema, see films Circumbaikal Railway 203, 332circuses 85-6classical music
events, see festivals & eventsexchange rates 15explorers 342-5
Ffax services 388ferries, see boat travelfestivals & events 20-1
Chinese New Year 20Christmas 20December Nights Festival 21, 74-5Dragon Boat Festival 21Easter 20Gobi Marathon 21Golden Mask Festival 72Golden Nadaam 21Ice & Snow Festival 20, 298-9Kamwa Festival 21, 138Lunar New Year 20
000 Map pages000 Photo pages
INDEX F-K
432festivals & events continued
Mid-Autumn Festival 21Mongolia Bike Challenge 21Moon Festival 21Moscow Biennale of Contemporary
Art 74Moscow International Film Festival
21, 72Naadam 11, 21, 277, 280New Year 21Perm White Nights 21, 138Roaring Hooves Festival 21Tsagaan Sar 277White Nights Festival 20, 105Winter Festival 72
Fevralsk 254films
China 339, 365documentaries 346Mongolia 357, 358, 361-2Russia 347, 350
fish 374fishing 379-80food 18, 383-4
China 370, 371dining cars 50-1, 7Mongolian 362-3on the train 50-1, 7Russia 354-5vegetarian 355
Forbidden City 304Frazier, Ian 345Frolikha Adventure Coastline Trail 258
Ggalleries, see museums & galleries
in China, museums & galleries in Mongolia, museums & galleries in Russia
mosquitoes 406motorcycle travel 401-2movies, see filmsmulticulturalism 18, 347, 349-51, 366Muravyov, Nikolai 327-8Murphy, Dervla 340museums & galleries in China
798 Art District 310Běijīng Police Museum 305China National Museum 308China Train Museum 310Germ Warfare Base – 731 Division
297-8Lǎo She Museum 308Poly Art Museum 309
museums & galleries in MongoliaChoijin Lama Temple Museum
272-3Museum of Natural History 273National Museum of Mongolian
History 273Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts
273museums & galleries in Russia
All-Russia Exhibition Centre 69Angara Village 254Anna Akhmatova Museum at the
Fountain House 103Antique Automobile Museum 242Architecture-Ethnography Museum
141Arsenev Regional Museum 239Art Muzeon Sculpture Park 71-2Baikal Museum 199BAM Museum (Severobaikalsk) 255BAM Museum (Tynda) 260Decembrist Museum 223-5Erarta Museum of Contemporary
Art 104Ethnographic Museum 207Gallery of European & American
Art of the 19th & 20th Centuries 70
Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture 70
Gulag History Museum 69
000 Map pages000 Photo pages
INDEX M
-R
434museums & galleries in Russia
continuedHermitage, the 10, 95, 98-9, 102,
10, 98-9Hermitage Centre 140Khangalov Museum of Buryat
History 206-7Kukushka.ru 89Kunstkamera 104Literary-Memorial House-Museum
Reshetnikov 149Loft Project ETAGI 104Memorial Museum of
Cosmonauts 69Military History Museum 149-50Moscow Museum of Modern Art 69Museum of Architecture &
Industrial Technology 149Museum of Central Armed
Forces 74Museum of City Life 191Museum of Contemporary Art
‘PERMM’ 137Museum of Music 103Museum of Railway Technology 104Museum of Railway Transport 103Museum of the Great Patriotic
War 71Museum of the Spiritual Cultures
of Western Siberia 161Museum of Volga People’s
Architecture & Culture 133-4Museum of Wooden Architecture &
Peasant Life 130Museum of Zoology 104National Centre of Contemporary
Art 134National Museum of the Republic
of Tatarstan 140New Tretyakov 71Nizhegorodsky State Art
Museum 134Oppression Museum, Tomsk 169Perm State Art Gallery 137Primorsky Picture Gallery 239Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts 70-1Pushkinskaya 10 104Red October 71Rizzordi Art Foundation 104Russian Museum 102-3Sakharov Museum 134Sergei Diaghilev Museum 138Seyatel – Railway Locomotive
Museum 169State Hermitage Museum 10, 95,
98-9, 102, 10, 98-9
State History Museum 68-9State Tretyakov Gallery 71Strelka Institute for Media,
Architecture & Design 71Sukachev Regional Art Museum,
Irkustk 191Surikov Museum-Estate 181Taltsy Museum of Architecture &
Ethnography 197Urals Mineralogical Museum 149Vladivostok Fortress Museum 239Volkonsky House-Museum 190Western European Art
theft 387-8, see also safetythermal springs 260throat singing 361Tiananmen Square 304-8Tiānjīn 294tickets
booking 32-41how to read 34-5prices 32-41purchasing 32-41
tigers 243-4, 374Siberian Tiger Park 297
time 15, 48, 390timetables 37-9
how to read 400tipping 386Tobolsk 12, 146, 160-3, 162, 3, 12toilets 47, 390-1Toki 254Tomsk 16, 147, 169-75, 170tourist information 391tours 36, 396-8, see also travel
agencies, individual locationstrain classes 40-1, 51-2, see also
train typesChina 399Mongolia 401
train stations 9, 9, see also individual locations
websites, see internet resourcesweights 381White Nights Festival 20, 105wildlife, see animalsWinter Palace, see Hermitage, theWitte, Sergei 328-9, 331, 335women travellers 392-3women’s health 406WWII 336
These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want:
1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking
r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment
2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping
C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/Transport
These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bush Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferryp Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metron Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subwaya Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tubei Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram
d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.
Look out for these icons:
o Our author’s recommendation
F No payment required
S A green or sustainable option
Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.
421 Behind the Scenes
OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Jenia, Konstanze, Francesca Broom, Nicola Butt, Rene Cabos, Cora De Koning, Roberto De Leon, Sien Deroo, Veronika Doblhoff-dier, Kieran Drake & Rachael Clapson, Thelma Gower, Reijo Härkönen, Basia Jozwiak, Suzanne Klein, Magnus Kohler, Francis Lafortune, Simo Laitinen, Neil Matthews, Amar Nanda, Emma Palios, Jiri Preclik & Andrea Votavova, Torben Prokscha, Fleur SGittinger & Rico Czaja, Christopher Sexton, Suvi Tossavainen, Hanna Van Egmond, Tobias Welte, Ekaterina Zaytseva
AUTHOR THANKS Anthony Haywood Much of this new edition of the Trans-Sib guide was researched parallel to the Russia guide. I’d like to thank Simon Richmond in particular for valuable input that fl owed into this book from his Russia original research. I’d also like to thank all authors and LP staff for doing such a professional job, fellow author Michael Kohn in particular for his expertise on Mongolia and China. Thanks to
Herr Fink from Lernidee-Erlebnisreisen and Herr Hahn at Gleisnost for their assistance; staff at Intourist’s railway booking offi ce who, without knowing the reason, patiently answered my questions; and staff at the information centres in Perm and Kazan. I’m also grateful to Tanya Ryabukhina in Moscow, Tamara Ryabukhina and Gennardy Doronin in Krasnoarmeysk, Katya Putina in Perm. Special thanks to Lyuba Suslyakova in Yekat-erinburg, Mark Smith of ‘Man in Seat 61’ fame and author Ian Frazier for fi nding time to be interviewed.
Marc Bennetts Thanks and love to Tanya Nevinskaya and Mariya Bennetts, who have been on many train journeys with me. Greetings to everyone who helped me on my travels.
Greg Bloom The biggest thanks go to Pop, who rolled with me (literally) for four weeks, taking many vodka shots for the team. Dad, you asked for an adventure; you got it! Thanks to predeces-sor Robert Reid for engaging and passing along many tips. On the road, shouts go out to Daria and Bryan in Khabarovsk, to Leo for various tips, to Misha in Komsomolsk, to Lera and Alyona in Kamchatka and, of course, to my homeboy Christian in Yakutsk.
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
422 Marc Di Duca A huge ‘dyakuyu’ to my Kyiv parents-in-law, Mykola and Vira, for taking care of my son Taras while I was on the road. Huge thanks also to Denis and Marina in Ulan-Ude, Svetla-na and Naran in Ulan-Ude, Zhenya in Irkutsk, Maria from the Irkutsk tourist offi ce, Yulia of Listvyanka tourist offi ce, Svetlana in Irkutsk, Nikita and Natalia in Khuzhir, Anatoly and Oksana in Krasnoyarsk, and Russian Railways and S7 Airlines for getting me everywhere on time. Last, to my wife, Tanya: thank you for all your support both during my travels and while I was writing up. You were great.
Michael Kohn Many thanks to fellow authors and edi-tors, especially Anthony Haywood, Anna Tyler, Marc Di Duca and Damian Harper. In Mongolia, special thanks to travellers Kirk Olson, Oyuna and Toroo (Khongor Guest-house). In China, thanks to Coco (Golden Pineapple Hostel) and Andy (Monkey Busi-ness). In Russia, thanks to Denis (Ulan-Ude Travellers House) and to Andrey the friendly customs offi cial who smuggled me on the cross-border train to China. Special thanks to Baigal and Molly who joined me for part of the journey.
Tom Masters Big thanks to my best friend in St Petersburg, Simon Patterson, for his good-humoured, vodka-soaked company on every trip I make to the city. Thanks also to Grégory Strub, Anna Knutson, Sergey Chernov, Tobin Auber, Dima Dzhafarov, Veronika Altukhova, Jessica Moroz, Chinawoman & Gang, Anthony Hay-wood, Simon Richmond, Mara Vorhees, Anna
Tyler and all the in-house team in Melbourne for their continued hard work and support.
Leonid Ragozin I would like to thank my wife, Masha Makeeva, for enduring my absences and accompanying me on some of my Golden Ring expeditions. Also, many thanks to Anna Tyler for taking me on board, and Anthony Haywood for guidance and a couple of great chats over shashlyk and beer in Moscow.
Mara Vorhees Moscow with one-year-old twins requires an extra set of thank-yous to everyone who helped the monkeys settle into life in the Rus-sian capital. Our awesome babysitter tops that list – Спасиба дорогоя Маша! My regular crew of Muscovite contacts was ever helpful, especially Tim O’Brien and Mirjana Vinsentin. Special thanks to Laura Bridge and Campbell Bethwaite for the ‘local knowledge’. And a mil-lion kisses to Jerry, Shay and Van for coming along for the ride.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.
Illustrations pp64-5 and pp98-9 by Javier Zarracina.
Cover photograph: Trans-Siberian, Irkutsk, Russia, Martin Moos, Lonely Planet Images. Many of the images in this guide are avail-able for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.
This Book This 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Trans-Siberian Railway guidebook was coordinated by Anthony Haywood. The follow-ing authors assisted with the research and writing of the book: Marc Bennetts, Greg Bloom, Marc Di Duca, Michael Kohn, Tom Masters, Leonid Ragozin and Mara Vorhees. Simon Richmond coordinated the previous two edi-tions, and Mark Elliott and Robert Reid also contributed to them. This guidebook was commis-sioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editors Anna Tyler, Emily K Wolman
Coordinating Editors Sarah Bailey, Carolyn Bain Coordinating Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Nicholas Colicchia Managing Editors Imogen Bannister, Tasmin Waby Mc-Naughtan Senior Editors Susan Pater-son, Angela Tinson Managing Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Jessica Crouch, Beth Hall, Briohny Hooper, Evan Jones, Kate Kiely
Assisting Cartographers Mick Garrett, James Leversha Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Rebecca Skinner Illustrator Javier Zarracina Language Content Annelies Mertens Thanks to Jo Cooke, Ryan Evans, Will Gourlay, Victoria Harrison, Laura Jane, Andi Jones, Yvonne Kirk, Shawn Low, Katie O’Connell, Trent Paton, Gerard Walker