4. Plymstock Quarry - PLYMOUTH.GOV.UK

The Setting of Saltram Park, Part Two, The Parks Agency, January 2007 42

4. Plymstock Quarry

4.1. Landscape character

The limestone quarry comprises a series of terraced cliffs, on the north, east and south

sides, with sloping access from the west via the site of the former RMC concrete

works. The north side is topped by the trees in Pomphlett Plantation, including a

prominent group of Pines [Fig.52]. The Plantation’s eastern boundary abuts open

ground and younger small plantations carried out as part of the quarry development

[Fig.53]. East of this enclosure is a large open field, which runs west to the former

bailiff’s house. This is rough grassland commanding extensive views westward and

to Saltram House, Plymouth and the Cornish Hills to the north, and Hardwick Wood

to the north-east. Although private, it is enjoyed for informal public access by

permission of the owners [Fig.54].

4.2. Visual sensitivity

The land below the north edge of the quarry self-evidently has no visual importance to

the Saltram landscape. However, the wooded skyline is of the highest importance in

views from Saltram house and the landscape, and consequently the level ground on

which the remainder of Pomphlett Plantation stands does potentially have major

visual importance and sensitivity. The scope for light penetration through this band

of trees is considerable, were buildings or lighting to be erected above the edge of the

quarry.

Moreover, the open land east of the quarry, and west of the Bailiff’s House is visually

important as the skyline in views from the house and other viewpoints in the park

(see e.g. Fig.23.]. Although the ground level of the field is invisible from Saltram and

its landscape, such is the fall of the land that Saltram House is clearly visible from

head-height in this field, screened only by a hedgerow [Fig.55].


5. Conclusions

Further research in the archives and on the ground have confirmed that the extent of

the eighteenth and early nineteenth-century landscape design was significantly more

extensive than previously understood. The Register, although based on the best

evidence at the time, does not recognise this extent.

English Heritage does not map essential setting or extensive views for the Register.

This leaves local authorities, land-owners and others to agree the extent of these.

This second part of our report sets out, with reference to the discussion in Part One,

reasoned arguments for a proposed mapping of these essential elements.

In particular, this report argues that the current boundary of the registered landscape

fails to acknowledge the historic importance of Pomphlett Plantation, and asserts that

it was an integral part not only of the visual backdrop to the park but also part of the

circuit ridings.

In reviewing the development of rides and approaches to the house, we point out the

importance of Hardwick Plantation and Wixenford Bottom, as well as the north-east

parkland.

In looking at the wider landscape, we draw attention to the importance of Amados

Hill in the designed landscape, and also of the immediate setting of the Stag Lodge

entrance. And we have uncovered the integral role in Saltram’s design of the arch at

Boringdon, previously considered a part of the latter.

We have requested that English Heritage amend the Register boundary and

description in the light of our research. If English Heritage declines, we strongly

advise the owners and planning authorities to note our recommendations on the

essential setting and significant views of the registered landscape. Harm to either the

setting or the views would have a significant impact on the registered landscape,

contrary to local and national policy.


Appendix 1English Heritage Register of parks and gardens of special historic interest, 2000.

English Heritage Parks and Gardens Report

Saltram House

Unitary Council: Plymouth City

County: Devon

English Heritage File No. GD 1690

Grade: II*

Date Registered: 12 August 1987

Grid Ref: SX 518 554

An C18 garden and parkland landscape developed from the mid C18, withadvice on garden structures from Lord Grantham, and from c 1770 withadvice from the landscape designer Nathaniel Richmond.

Historic Development

The Mayhowe family owned Saltram Wood, a quay and other buildings inC16. These were sold c 1614 to Sir James Bagg, Controller of Customs andMP for Plymouth, and by 1638 there was a ‘great mansion house’ andgardens at Saltram (guidebook 1998). In 1660 the estate was given byParliament to Henry Hatsell, and at the Restoration it passed to Sir GeorgeCarteret. Celia Fiennes described Saltram in 1698 as a ‘very large house[which] look’d very finely in a thicket of trees like a grove’ (Morris 1995). It wassold in 1712 to George Parker who owned an estate at Boringdon c 1.5kmnorth-east. On his death in 1743 the estate went to John Parker (1703-68),and his wife, Lady Catherine Poulett. By the late 1740s Saltram was theParkers’ principal residence, and in 1749 Lady Catherine’s brother, secondEarl Poulett of Hinton House, Somerset (qv), brought Charles Hamilton ofPainshill, Surrey (qv) to Saltram. Hamilton may have advised on thelandscape (Fretwell 1990/91). The mid C18 landscape appears to have beenlimited to the gardens and pleasure grounds, as Donn does not indicate apark on his county map (1765). John Parker II succeeded in 1768, and withhis wife, Theresa Robinson, made significant changes. Robert Adam(1728-92) was commissioned to make alterations to the house (1768), whilefrom c 1770 improvements were made to the garden and the park wasdeveloped under the supervision of Nathaniel Richmond who receivedpayments in 1770 and 1772-4. Richmond produced plans for plantations,


designs for the Castle (unexecuted), and plans for the Orangery (modified).Other improvements in the 1770s included a new kitchen garden (1771), andconstruction of the Castle (1773) to designs by Thomas Robinson (later LordGrantham), Theresa Parker’s brother. Agricultural improvement was regardedas part of the landscape improvement. A triumphal arch at Boringdon (RobertAdam 1783) acted as an eyecatcher from Saltram. These developments arerecorded on the OS surveyor’s drawing (1784-6) (Fretwell 1990/91), whichalso shows that the disposition of the garden and central areas of the parkwas established by that date. John Parker II, created Lord Boringdon in 1784,died in 1788 and was succeeded by his son, a minor. Saltram was let to LordLansdowne, and later to King George III. From the mid 1790s the park wasextended, new plantations formed, and a new eastern approach withassociated lodges built. Chelson Meadow south-west of the park wasreclaimed from the Laira in 1806-7. These schemes, shown on the Tithe mapof 1840, meant that John Parker III, created Earl of Morley left considerabledebts at his death in 1840. Saltram was let for twenty-three years and littlewas done to the grounds until the third Earl returned with his wife, Margaret,daughter of R S Holford of Westonbirt, Gloucestershire (qv) in 1884. In 1903the Gardeners’ Chronicle noted significant improvements in the garden, whichhad been reclaimed from a ‘wilderness of laurels’ and planted with rare treesand shrubs, some obtained from Westonbirt, and others from A G Mitford ofBatsford, Gloucestershire (qv). Under the fourth Earl (succeeded 1905), andthe fifth Earl (succeeded 1951), few changes were made, except for removingthe late C19 formal garden below the west front (1956-7). In 1957 the House,garden and park were given to the National Trust, which undertook restorationof the garden buildings between 1957 and 1960. In 1970 the A38 dualcarriageway was constructed through the park east of the House, andPlymouth City Council acquired Chelson Meadow, converting it into a rubbishtip. The former kitchen garden, which remained outside the National Trustproperty, was developed for housing c 1984. Storm damage in 1990 led theNational Trust to commission an historical survey of the site which has beenused to inform recent management.

Description

LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTINGSaltram lies c 2km south-west of Plympton and c 2km east of Plymouth, onthe east bank of the Laira or River Plym some 1.5km north of Plymstock. Thec 125ha site comprises some 15ha of gardens around the House, and c110ha of parkland, woods and agricultural land. Bounded to the north-west bythe Laira and to the north by fences and hedges, similar late C20 fencesenclose the south-west and south boundary which adjoins the late C20rubbish tip on Chelson Meadow. To the south-east a soft boundary is formedby agricultural land enclosed by hedges, while to the east the site is boundedby a minor lane, the cutting accommodating the late C20 A38 dualcarriageway, and by Hardwick Wood north-east of the road. The site slopeswest to the Laira from high ground at Hardwick Wood, and in the C18 andC19 significant vistas were created from the House, the Castle and the park tothe river and Plymouth. Many of these views have been compromised by C20


development such as the rubbish tip on Chelson Meadow and the adjoiningmid C20 cement works.

ENTRANCES AND APPROACHESThe site is approached from Merafield Road which forms the east boundary ofthe park, at a point c 570m north-east of the House. The entrance is flankedby a pair of C18 rusticated granite gate piers with ball finials from which white-painted timber gates are hung. Low convex wing walls support white-paintedpale fences which extend north and south to rusticated granite piers with plainpyramidal caps (all listed grade II). Some 20m south-west of the entranceMerafield Lodge, a late C19 two-storey stone lodge stands within the site. Thetarmac drive enters the site, turning south-west and south to pass over theA38 dual carriageway on a late C20 concrete bridge, before sweeping north-west through the park and descending south to approach the mid C18 brickstables (listed grade II*) 60m south-east of the House. A further drive leadsnorth-east through the pleasure grounds to a gravelled carriage court south ofthe House. A service drive continues north from the stables to the officesnorth of the House. The C18 approach was from Longbridge to the north, andtoday (1998) a drive extends c 670m north from the stables to the boundary ofthe site; the course of this drive has been disrupted by the late C20 A38beyond the site. The late C18 Stanmer Lodge which stood at Longbridge wasdemolished c 1899, and its successor removed c 1986. The early C19 easternapproach survives as a tarmac drive extending c 430m south-east from thestables through the park to a pair of C17 rusticated granite gate piers withlarge ball finials (listed grade II) which were removed from Boringdon in theearly C19 to Chelson Meadow, and re-erected in their present position c1970. Beyond the gate piers the drive turns south-south-east, running c 700mthrough ornamental woodland to reach Stag Lodge, a pair of late C18 single-storey stone lodges designed by Robert Adam with associated gate piers andwrought-iron gates (all listed grade II). Originally built at Merafield, these weremoved here in the early C19. A mid C19 two-storey stone and slate-roofedlodge cottage stands c 10m south-west of Stag Lodge. An early C19 carriagedrive and series of walks were created through Hardwick Wood to reachHardwick Lodge c 1.5km east of the House. These survive as footpaths andtracks.

PRINCIPAL BUILDINGSaltram House (listed grade I) was remodelled for John and Lady CatherineParker c 1743. William Kent’s plans for rebuilding were rejected in favour of asimplified scheme. Elements from the C16 and C17 house survive within thepresent structure. Although differently composed, the east, south and westfacades are all symmetrical, pale rendered and comprise three storeys. Thesouth or entrance front has a central pediment containing an early C19 Coadestone coat of arms and later earl’s coronet, while the front door is containedwithin a Doric porch of 1820 by Foulston. The east facade has flankingpedimented wings, while the central block has a monumental ground-floorVenetian window. The west or garden front is Palladian in style with a centralblock linked to tall pedimented pavilions by two-storey wings. The pavilionseach have a pair of ground-floor niches containing statues by Cheere, while


the central block has a prominent central stone doorcase flanked by a pair ofC18 sphinxes.

GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDSThe gardens lie principally to the north and west of the House, with furthersmall areas of pleasure ground to the east. The carriage court south of theHouse adjoins lawns which are separated from the park by a late C20 ha-ha.To the east, shallow stone steps rise to a gravelled terrace walk below theHouse which leads to a path passing through evergreen shrubs to offices onthe north side of the House. The terrace is ornamented with stone urns, andbelow it a lawn slopes east to the drive and is separated from the park by ironfencing. The stables to the south-east are screened by ornamental shrubs,and there are further shrubs and specimen trees to the north-east. From thecarriage court gravel walks lead north-west and north into the gardens. TheHouse is separated from a lawn to the west by a gravel walk and four Irishyews and a pair of marble urns on stone pedestals which survive from the lateC19 formal garden. To the north and south the lawn is flanked by ornamentaltrees and shrubs. The late C18 Chapel (listed grade II) stands c 50m north-west of the House. This single-storey rendered structure with a south facadecomprising four gothic windows and a gothic door separated by buttresseshas a castellated parapet and a hipped slate roof; it now (1998) houses agallery. Some 270m north-west of the House, the late C18 Orangery (listedgrade II*) is a substantial wooden structure on a granite base with a largepediment surmounting three tall sash windows separated by Doric columns,flanked on each side by two further tall sashes separated by pilasters. Thedesign of the Orangery may be related to Adam’s contemporary TempleGreenhouse at Croome Court, Worcestershire (qv). Restored after a fire in1932, the Orangery now (1998) contains a collection of citrus plants. East ofthe Orangery the late C18 Orange Grove comprises an elliptical shrubberyenclosure with wide gravel walks for standing citrus trees outside during thesummer, surrounding a central, circular, stone-edged pool. A path leadingnorth-west from the Orange Grove enters the Melancholy Walk, a grassterrace leading c 300m west through woodland with a classical temple, nowknown as Fanny’s Bower (listed grade II*) but possibly the Temple of Jupiterin the C18, some 140m west of the Orange Grove. The small temple maysurvive from the mid C18 garden (Fretwell 1990/91), and comprises apediment supported on granite Tuscan columns. Its interior contains a simplewooden bench seat from which there are views north and north-east acrossthe park. The Melancholy Walk was ornamented in the mid C18 with statuesand pillars, but few survive (late C20). Areas of late C19 and C20 mixedornamental planting and mature trees adjoin walks leading west and south-west to the Castle (listed grade II*), a late C18, octagonal, single-storeystructure situated on a mound planted with ilex oaks near the westernextremity of the garden. The rough-cast building has four ogee-headed gothicwindows set in the angle walls, and a similar door in the east facade, while theflat roof is concealed behind a castellated parapet. The interior of the Castleretains late C18 plasterwork and a chimney piece from a design by Kent,copied from Inigo Jones. The views which this building was intended to enjoyhave largely been lost through C20 tree growth. Walks west of the Castlehave been planted out in the late C20, but formerly led to a gothic-arched gate


set in a stone wall separating the gardens from walks leading west throughSaltram Wood to Saltram Point. This gateway has been blocked in the lateC20. East of the Castle a straight gravel walk passes c 350m through a lateC19 avenue of lime trees on the south-west boundary of the garden to returnto the south-west corner of the west lawn.

PARKLying to the north, east, south and south-west of the House, the parklandslopes from the north-east to the Laira allowing westerly views from the higherground. Largely pasture, there is a scatter of ornamental trees to the north,east and south of the House, while to the south-west the park is divided byfences into grazing enclosures. Beyond a drive running west towards SaltramPoint some 200m south of the House, the park is again divided by fences,with small areas of woodland and scattered trees. The Belt, an early C19plantation and carriage drive, separates the parkland from cultivated land tothe south, with a further area of parkland, now (1998) under cultivation, lyingto the west of the Stag Lodge Drive c 800m south-east of the House. Thedrive to Saltram Point crosses the park in a westerly direction, following anatural valley, and enters woodland c 800m south-west of the House. PointCottage (listed grade II) c 1.2km south-west of the House was a small C18classical building overlooking the Laira, but has been altered in the C19 andC20. A boathouse adjoins it to the south. The C18 Cold Bath, of which onlytraces remain, and the Bath Seat (listed grade II), a rectangular granite slabseat on the river shore, stood some 20m north. From the C17 or C18 quay atSaltram Point the drive turns north and north-east, following the river shorewith woodland on the steep slope to the south. The mid C18 Amphitheatre(listed grade II*) lies some 600m north-east of Saltram Point and c 720mnorth-west of the House, to the south of a grassy bastion which projects intothe river. Built into the exposed rock face, the Amphitheatre comprises arusticated triple arcade with mask keystones approached by a flight of widestone steps. Now roofless and lacking the urns which formerly ornamentedthe parapet, the Amphitheatre is flanked to each side by three small grottoes.A painting of this feature by William Tomkins (1770) shows small cannons onthe bastion which served as a landing-place for visitors arriving by water. Astatue of a gladiator on the bastion in Tomkins’ painting is said to have beenstolen in the early C19 (guidebook 1998). The riverside drive continues c 800north-east to join the north drive 300m north of the House.

KITCHEN GARDENSome 670m north-east of the House, the late C18 walled kitchen garden wasdeveloped as a housing estate, Romilly Gardens, c 1984 and is outside theregistered site boundary. Brick boundary walls and some internal wallssurvive within the development, as does the gardener’s house on the northernboundary. Wall-trained fruit trees remain on the west wall visible from theroad.

OTHER LANDWoodland on the south-west fringe of Hardwick Wood, c 650m east of theHouse but now separated from the park by the late C20 A38 dual carriagewayis prominent in views from the House and eastern areas of the park, and is


included in the site. Hardwick Wood was developed in the early C19 with aseries of ornamental walks and drives leading to Hardwick Lodge c 1.5kmeast of the House.

References

W Angus, Seats of the Nobility and Gentry in Great Britain and Wales (1787),pl 21G Lipscombe, A Journey into Cornwall (1799), pp 320-2J Britton and E W Brayley, The Beauties of England and Wales 4, (1809)D C Webb, Observations and Remarks (1812), p 75R Ackerman, Repository 6, (1825), pl 1W W Gendall, Views of Country Seats … II, (1830), p 41Gardeners’ Chronicle, ii (1903), pp 413-14Country Life, 59 (23 January 1926), pp 124-33; (30 January 1926), pp 160-70;141 (27 April 1967), pp 998-1001; (4 May 1967), pp 1160-4Lady Rockley, Historic Gardens of England (1938), pp 166-7Saltram, guidebook, (National Trust 1975)D Jacques, Georgian Gardens The Reign of Nature (1983), p 85Saltram, guidebook, (National Trust 1988)B Cherry and N Pevsner, The Buildings of England: Devon (1989), pp 710-14K Fretwell, Saltram Park and Garden Survey (National Trust 1990/91)Saltram House Garden Guide, (National Trust 1993)C Morris (ed), The Illustrated Journeys of Celia Fiennes 1685- c 1712 (1995edn), pp 200-1T Gray, The Garden History of Devon An Illustrated Guide to Sources (1995),pp 196-9Saltram, guidebook, (National Trust 1998)

MapsB Donn, A Map of the County of Devon, 1765Tithe map for Plympton St Mary parish, 1840 (Devon Record Office)

OS Surveyor’s drawing, 1784-6OS Old Series 1" to 1 mile, published 1809OS 6" to 1 mile: 1st edition surveyed 1869, published 1886

IllustrationsWilliam Tomkins, A view north-west across the park at Saltram, 1770 (privatecollection)William Tomkins, The amphitheatre and Laira, 1770 (private collection)

Archival itemsFamily and Estate accounts, late C18 and early C19 (69, V1-4 and V5-10),(West Devon Record Office)Parker and Robinson correspondence, late C18 (430), (West Devon RecordOffice)Parker correspondence, late C18 and early C19 (1259), (West Devon RecordOffice)


Morley Papers including correspondence and Journals of third Earl, late C18and late C19 (Add MSS 48218-48301), (British Library)Planting diaries 1886-94, and two others to 1921 (National Trust, SaltramHouse)Robert Adam’s designs for Saltram and Boringdon are held at the Sir JohnSoane Museum and include the following: vol 46:171 (Castle in cottage style);vol 49:62 (Boringdon arch); vol 51:90 (Stag Lodge); vol 51:91 (Stag Lodge).

Description written: December 1998Amended: May 1999; July 1999Edited: July 2000


Map 4. English Heritage, plan of existing Register boundary.


Appendix 2Proposed amended version of current English Heritage Register of parks and

gardens of special historic interest, 2000.

The substantive amendments are italicised.

English Heritage Parks and Gardens Report

Saltram House

Unitary Council: Plymouth City

County: Devon

English Heritage File No. GD 1690

Grade: II*

Date Registered: 12 August 1987

Grid Ref: SX 518 554

An C18 garden and parkland landscape developed from the mid C18, with advice on

garden structures from Lord Grantham, and from c1770 with advice from the

landscape designer Nathaniel Richmond.

Historic Development

The Mayhowe family owned Saltram Wood, a quay and other buildings in C16. These

were sold c1614 to Sir James Bagg, Controller of Customs and MP for Plymouth, and

by 1638 there was a ‘great mansion house’ and gardens at Saltram (guidebook). In

1660 the estate was given by Parliament to Henry Hatsell, and at the Restoration it

passed to Sir George Carteret. Celia Fiennes described Saltram as a ‘very large house

… [which] look’d very finely in a thicket of trees like a grove’ (1698). It was sold in

1712 to George Parker who owned an estate at Boringdon c1.5km north-east. On his

death in 1743 the estate went to John Parker (1703-68), and his wife, Lady Catherine

Poulett. By the late 1740s Saltram was the Parkers’ principal residence, and in 1749

Lady Catherine’s brother, 2nd Earl Poulett of Hinton House, Somerset (qv), brought

Charles Hamilton of Painshill, Surrey (qv) to Saltram. Hamilton may have advised on

the landscape (Fretwell, 1990/91). The mid C18 landscape appears to have been

limited to the gardens and pleasure grounds, as Donn does not indicate a park on his

county map (1765). John Parker II (ennobled as Lord Boringdon, 1784) succeeded in

1768, and with his wife, Theresa Robinson, made significant changes. Robert Adam

was commissioned to make alterations to the house (1768), while from c1770

improvements were made to the garden and the park was developed under the

supervision of Nathaniel Richmond (1724-84) who received payments in 1770 and


1772-74. Richmond, who also worked for Theresa Parker’s brother at Stanmer Park,

Sussex (qv), produced plans for plantations, designs for the Castle (unexecuted), and

plans for the Orangery (modified). Other improvements in the 1770s included a new

kitchen garden (1771), and construction of the Castle (1773) to designs by Thomas

Robinson (later Lord Grantham), Theresa Parker’s brother. Agricultural improvement

was regarded as part of the landscape improvement. A triumphal arch at Boringdon

(Robert Adam,1783) acted as an eye-catcher from Saltram. Some of these

developments are recorded in a series of paintings by William Tomkins (1770-71)

(National Trust collection), and on the Ordnance Survey Drawing (1784-86), which

also shows that the disposition of the garden and central areas of the park was

established by that date.

John Parker II died in 1788 and was succeeded by his son, who was still a minor.

Saltram was let to Lord Lansdowne, and later to King George III (1789). From the

mid 1790s the park was extended, new plantations formed, and a new eastern

approach with associated lodges built. Chelson Meadow south-west of the park was

re-claimed from the Laira in 1806-07. These schemes, shown on the Tithe map of

1840, meant that John Parker III (created Earl of Morley in 1815), left considerable

debts at his death in 1840. Saltram was let for 23 years and little was done to the

grounds until the third Earl returned with his wife, Margaret, daughter of R.S. Holford

of Westonbirt, Gloucestershire (qv) in 1884. The Gardeners’ Chronicle (1903) noted

significant improvements in the garden, which had been reclaimed from a ‘wilderness

of laurels’ and planted with rare trees and shrubs, some obtained from Westonbirt,

and others from A.G. Mitford of Batsford, Gloucestershire (qv). Under the fourth Earl

(succeeded 1905, d 1951), and the fifth Earl (d 1962), few changes were made, except

for removing the late C19 formal garden below the west front (1956-57). In 1957 the

house, garden and part of the park were acquired by HM Treasury in lieu of death

duties, and were passed to the National Trust, which undertook restoration of the

garden buildings between 1957 and 1960. In 1970 the A38 dual carriageway was

constructed through the park east of the house, and Plymouth City Council acquired

Chelson Meadow, converting it into a rubbish tip. The former kitchen garden, which

remained outside the National Trust property, was developed for housing c1984.

Storm damage in 1990 led the National Trust to commission an historical survey of

the site which has been used to inform recent management.

Description

LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING

Saltram lies c 2km south-west of Plympton and c 2km east of Plymouth, on the east

bank of the Laira or River Plym some 1.5km north of Plymstock. The c145ha site

comprises some 15ha gardens around the house, and c130ha parkland, woods and

agricultural land. Bounded to the north-west by the Laira and to the north by fences

and hedges separating the site from C20 houses and a sewage works, similar late C20

fences enclose the south-western boundary which adjoins the late C20 rubbish tip on

Chelson Meadow. To the south and south-east a soft boundary is formed by

agricultural land enclosed by hedges and ornamental plantations including Sellar

Acres and Pomphlett Plantation, the latter being bounded to the south by C20 quarry

workings. To the east the site is bounded by a minor lane, the cutting accommodating

the late C20 A38 dual-carriageway, and by C20 housing to the north of Hardwick

Wood and agricultural land to the south of the Wood. The site slopes west to the Laira


from high ground at Hardwick Wood, and in the C18 and C19 significant vistas were

created from the house, the Castle and the wider park to the river and Plymouth; these

views were recorded in a series of late C18 paintings by William Tomkins (d 1792)

which remain in the house today (2006). A further vista was created from the house to

the eye-catcher Arch at Boringdon c 2.5km north-north-east of the house in 1783; the

Arch (listed grade II) is included in the registered site as an outlying structure.

To the south-west of the house and park, Chelson Meadow, reclaimed from the Laira

by the first Earl in 1806 for use as a race course, has been used as a land-fill site

since c1964, and is not included in the registered site; the early C19 causeway, known

as The Ridge, separating the former Meadow from the Laira survives, and forms part

of the setting of the site.

ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES

The site is approached from Merafield Road which forms the east boundary of the

park, at a point c570m north-east of the house. The entrance is flanked by a pair of

C18 rusticated granite gate-piers with ball finials from which white-painted timber

gates are hung. Low convex wing walls support white-painted pale fences which

extend north and south to rusticated granite piers with plain pyramidal caps (all listed

grade II). Some 20m south-west of the entrance Merafield Lodge, a late C19 two-

storey stone lodge stands within the site. The tarmac drive enters the site, turning

south-west and south to pass over the A38 dual carriageway on a late C20 concrete

bridge, before sweeping north-west through the park and descending south to

approach the mid C18 brick stables (listed grade II*) 60m south-east of the house. A

further drive leads north-east through the pleasure grounds to a gravelled carriage

court south of the house. A service drive continues north from the stables to the

offices north of the house.

Until the mid C18, the principal approach to Saltram was from a tidal crossing from

Crabtree to Blaxton Point c 0.5km north-north-west of the house (guidebook, 2005).

This approach was replaced by Lord Boringdon c 1770 when he constructed the

Longbridge or north drive across Plympton Marshes, which were reclaimed to form

parkland (guidebook, 2005). The course of this drive is today disrupted by the late

C20 A38 road, but a drive still extends c670m north from the stables to the boundary

of the site. The late C18 Stanmer Lodge which stood at Longbridge was demolished

c1899, and its successor was removed c1986. The remnant of a further drive leading

north-east from the north drive, through an area of parkland to the north of the

kitchen garden, to join Cott Hill c 1km north-east of the house, survives, together with

an early C19 picturesque thatched lodge adjacent to the former entrance from Cott

Hill.

The late C18 and early C19 eastern approach survives as a tarmac drive extending

c430m south-east from the stables through the park to a pair of C17 rusticated granite

gate-piers with large ball finials (listed grade II). These were removed from Boringdon

in the early C19 to the Chelson Lodge entrance, and re-erected in their present

position c1970. Beyond the gate-piers the drive turns south-south-east, running c700m

through ornamental woodland to reach Stag Lodges, a pair of late C18 single-storey

stone lodges designed by Robert Adam with associated gate-piers and wrought-iron

gates (all listed grade II), which were originally built at Merafield and moved here

c1824. A two-storey stone and slate-roofed lodge cottage of 1890 stands c10m south-


west of the Stag Lodges. An early C19 carriage drive was created between 1800 and

1810 through Hardwick Wood to reach Hardwick Lodge c1.5km east of the house.

This drive survives as a track, but is separated from the park and the eastern drive,

which it formerly joined adjacent to the site now occupied by the Boringdon gate

piers, by the mid C20 A38 road. The site of the early C19 kennels at the eastern end of

Hardwick Wood adjacent to Kennel Hill is occupied by a C20 domestic dwelling

which is not included in the registered site.

Further drives were constructed in the park in the early C19, including an approach

from Pomphlett which passed through Pomphlett Plantation and adjacent to

Wixenford Farm (outside the area here registered), before turning north and north-

west to join another drive passing through The Belt on the southern edge of the park.

Sections of the Pomphlett drive survive though the section passing through Pomphlett

Plantation has been lost to quarrying. These drives provided a series of designed

reciprocal views to and from the southern side of the house across the park.

PRINCIPAL BUILDING

Saltram House (listed grade I) was remodelled for John and Lady Catherine Parker

c1743. William Kent’s plans for rebuilding were rejected in favour of a simplified

scheme by an unidentified architect. Elements from the C16 and C17 house survive

within the present structure. Although differently composed, the east, south and west

facades are all symmetrical, pale rendered and comprise three storeys. The south or

entrance front has a central pediment containing an early C19 Coade stone coat of

arms and later earl’s coronet, while the front door is contained within a Doric porch of

1820 by Foulston. The east façade has flanking pedimented wings, while the central

block has a monumental ground-floor Venetian window. The west or garden front is

Palladian in style with a central block linked to tall pedimented pavilions by two-

storey wings. The pavilions each have a pair of ground-floor niches containing statues

by Cheere, while the central block has a prominent central stone door-case flanked by

a pair of C18 sphinxes. In 1768 Lord Boringdon commissioned Robert Adam (1728-

92) to make important internal changes to Saltram. These included the formation of a

library (1769-70), later converted into a dining room (c 1780), from which Adam’s

triumphal arch at Boringdon (1783) served as an eye-catcher.

GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS

The gardens lie principally to the north and west of the house, with further small areas

of pleasure ground to the east. The carriage court south of the house adjoins lawns

which are separated from the park by a late C20 ha-ha. To the east, shallow stone

steps rise to a gravelled terrace walk below the house which leads to a path passing

through evergreen shrubs to offices on the north side of the house. The terrace is

ornamented with stone urns, and below it a lawn slopes east to the drive, and is

separated from the park by iron fencing. The stables to the south-east are screened by

ornamental shrubs, and there are further shrubs and specimen trees to the north-east.

From the carriage court gravel walks lead north-west and north into the gardens. The

house is separated from a lawn to the west by a gravel walk and four Irish yews and a

pair of marble urns on stone pedestals which survive from the late C19 formal garden.

To the north and south the lawn is flanked by ornamental trees and shrubs. The

Chapel (listed grade II) stands c50m north-west of the house. This single-storey


rendered structure with a south façade comprising four gothic windows and a gothic

door separated by buttresses has a castellated parapet and a hipped slate roof was

constructed in 1776 by the estate carpenter, Mr Stockman (guidebook, 2005); it now

(1998) houses a gallery. Some 270m north-west of the house, the Orangery (listed

grade II*) is a substantial wooden structure on a granite base with a large pediment

surmounting three tall sash windows separated by Doric columns, flanked on each

side by two further tall sashes separated by pilasters. Erected in 1774 to a design by

Theresa Parker, the Orangery may be related to Adam’s contemporary Temple

Greenhouse at Croome Court, Worcestershire (qv). Restored after a fire in 1932, the

Orangery now (1998) contains a collection of citrus plants. East of the Orangery the

late C18 Orange Grove comprises an elliptical shrubbery enclosure with wide gravel

walks for standing citrus trees outside during the summer, surrounding a central

circular stone-edged pool. A path leading north-west from the Orange Grove enters

the Melancholy Walk, a grass terrace leading c300m west through woodland with a

classical temple, now known as Fanny’s Bower (listed grade II*), but possibly the

Temple of Jupiter in the C18, some 140m west of the Orange Grove. The small

temple may survive from the mid C18 garden (Fretwell, 1990/91), and comprises a

pediment supported on granite Tuscan columns. Its interior contains a simple wooden

bench seat from which there are views north and north-east across the park. The

Melancholy Walk was ornamented in the mid C18 with statues and pillars, but few

survive (late C20). Areas of late C19 and C20 mixed ornamental planting and mature

trees adjoin walks leading west and south-west to the Castle (listed grade II*), a late

C18 octagonal single-storey structure situated on a mound planted with ilex oaks near

the western extremity of the garden. The rough-cast building has four ogee-headed

gothic windows set in the angle walls, and a similar door in the east façade, while the

flat roof is concealed behind a castellated parapet. The interior of the Castle retains

late C18 plasterwork and a chimney piece from a design by Kent, copied from Inigo

Jones. The southerly and south-westerly views across the park towards Pomphlett

Plantation which this building was intended to enjoy have been partly lost through

C20 tree growth. Walks west of the Castle have been planted out in the late C20, but

formerly led to a gothic-arched gate set in a stone wall separating the gardens from

walks leading west through Saltram Wood to Saltram Point, Point Cottage (listed

grade II), the boathouse and the remains of the C18 salt-water Bath and the Bath Seat

(listed grade II). This gateway has been blocked in the late C20. East of the Castle a

straight gravel walk passes c350m through a late C19 avenue of lime trees on the

south-west boundary of the garden to return to the south-west corner of the west lawn.

PARK

Lying to the north, east, south and south-west of the house, the parkland slopes from

the north-east to the Laira allowing westerly views from the higher ground. Largely

pasture, there is a scatter of ornamental trees to the north, east and south of the house,

while to the south-west the park is divided by fences into grazing enclosures. Beyond

a drive running west towards Saltram Point some 200m south of the house, the park is

again divided by fences, with small areas of woodland and scattered trees. The Belt,

an early C19 plantation and carriage drive, separates the parkland from cultivated land

to the south, with a further area of parkland, now (1999) under cultivation, lying to the

west of the Stag Lodges Drive c800m south-east of the house. The drive to Saltram

Point crosses the park west, following a natural valley, and enters woodland c800m

south-west of the house. Point Cottage (listed grade II) c1.2km south-west of the

house was a small C18 classical building overlooking the Laira, but has been altered


in the C19 and C20. A boathouse adjoins it to the south, and the C18 Cold Bath of

which only traces remain, and the Bath Seat (listed grade II), a rectangular granite

slab seat on the river shore, stood some 20m north. From the C17 or C18 quay at

Saltram Point the drive turns north and north-east, following the river shore with

woodland on the steep slope to the south. The mid C18 Amphitheatre (listed grade

II*) lies some 600m north-east of Saltram Point and c720m north-west of the house,

to the south of a grassy bastion which projects into the river. Built into the exposed

rock face, the Amphitheatre comprises a rusticated triple arcade with mask key-stones

approached by a flight of wide stone steps. Now roofless and lacking the urns which

formerly ornamented the parapet, the Amphitheatre is flanked to each side by three

small grottoes. A painting of this feature by William Tomkins (1770) shows small

cannons on the bastion which served as a landing-place for visitors arriving by water.

A statue of a gladiator shown on the bastion in Tomkins’ painting is said to have been

stolen in the early C19 (National Trust, 1998). The riverside drive continues c800

north-east to join the north drive 300m north of the house.

A further area of parkland lies to the south and south-west of The Belt, adjoining the

remnants of the early C19 carriage drive leading south-west to Pomphlett. This area

of park occupies the north-facing slope below Pomphlett Plantation, and retains

mature parkland trees among later planting and regeneration. The former northern

boundary of Pomphlett Plantation is marked by stone walls, although the tree line has

been extended slightly northwards during the late C20. The parkland slope ascending

to Pomphlett Plantation, and the woodland extending along the ridge forms the

boundary of the park when seen from the southern side of the house and pleasure

grounds, and also from the Triumphal Arch at Boringdon. There are important

reciprocal views from the high ground across the park to the house; one of these

views, from rising ground south-west of Wixenford Farm, is recorded in a painting by

William Tomkins (1770). This area of park, along with Pomphlett Plantation, formed

part of the improvements undertaken by Lord Boringdon (d 1788).

Hardwick Wood, c 600m east of the house, and now separated from the park by the

A38 road which here runs in a cutting, occupies a ridge of high ground enclosing the

park to the east. The plantation and a series of ornamental walks were formed by

Lord Boringdon, probably with the advice of Nathaniel Richmond, c 1770 as part of

his scheme of landscape improvements (OSD, 1785). A new entrance drive was

formed through the plantation by the first Earl of Morley c 1800 (guidebook, 2005;

OS 1869). The walks and drives afford a series of designed views northwards towards

the Triumphal Arch and beyond to Dartmoor, and, in the late C18 and early C19,

westwards towards Saltram. The latter view was painted by the Revd John Swete in

1797 (DRO).

To the north of Hardwick Plantation a large meadow enclosure, Amados Hill,

provides an appropriate park-like setting to the northward views; it is also a

significant feature in views of Saltram from the Triumphal Arch. The small field

enclosures which originally occupied Amados Hill were cleared to form a single

enclosure c 1785-1809.

An area of parkland to the north-east of the house is now (early C21) separated from

the remainder of the park by the mid C20 A38 road. Occupying an area of high

ground which falls away to the north, this area of park includes an ornamental clump


prominently placed on the summit of the ridge. A single storey stone lodge, designed

in early C19 picturesque style with thatched roof and a trellis porch stands at the

south-eastern corner of this area of park adjacent to Cott Hill. The park appears to

have been formed c 1780 and is recorded on the OSD (1785). Its formation may have

been associated with the construction of the Longbridge Drive (1770-71) and the

relocation of the kitchen garden (1771). This area of parkland is prominent in views

of Saltram from the Triumphal Arch.

KITCHEN GARDEN

Some 670m north-east of the house, the kitchen garden was developed as a housing

estate, Romilly Gardens, c1984 and is not included in the Registered site boundary.

Brick boundary walls and some internal walls survive within the development, as

does the gardener’s house on the northern boundary. Wall-trained fruit trees remain

on the west wall visible from the road. The kitchen garden was moved to this location

in 1771, replacing an earlier garden nearer the house (guidebook, 2005).

OTHER LAND

The Triumphal Arch at Boringdon, c 2km north-north-east of the house, together with

its associated plantation, is included in the registered site. Constructed in brick, stone

and stucco, the Triumphal Arch (listed grade II*; Buildings at Risk Register)

comprises a central arch flanked by paired pilasters, with single-storey screen walls

to each side with end pilasters and centrally-placed blind window openings. The ruins

of a single-storey lodge remain behind the north-west wing wall, and those of a

storage shed behind the north-east wall. The Arch stands in an irregularly-shaped

plantation, enclosed from adjacent fields by Devon banks. The plantation retains

several mature beech trees, and the remains of a drive leading from the Plymbridge

road to the northern side of the Arch. The Arch was designed for Lord Boringdon by

Robert Adam in 1783 to serve both as an eye-catcher from Saltram House and

various locations within the park such as the Amphitheatre, Pomphlett Plantation,

and Hardwick Plantation, and a view-point from which the entire Saltram landscape

could be appreciated. The Arch was designed to be approached from the north, via a

drive leading through Boringdon Park from Boringdon House, with the intention of

providing a sudden and dramatic view of Saltram.

The plantation, delineated on the Tithe map (1840) as ‘Triumphal Arch Plantation’

forms a setting and backdrop to the Arch, and appears to be contemporary with its

construction.

REFERENCES

G. Lipscombe, A Journey into Cornwall (1799), pp. 320-22.

D.C. Webb, Observations and Remarks (1812), p. 75.

The Gardeners’ Chronicle, ii (1903), pp. 413-14.

Country Life, 59, (1926), pp. 124.

Lady Rockley, Historic Gardens of England (1938), pp. 166-67.

Country Life, 141, (1967), pp. 998-1001.

Country Life, 141, (1967), pp. 1160-64.

Saltram, guidebook, (The National Trust, 1975).

D. Jacques, Georgian Gardens The Reign of Nature (1983), p. 85.

Saltram, guidebook, (National Trust, 1988).


B. Cherry and N. Pevsner, Buildings of England: Devon (2nd ed. 1989), pp. 710-714.

K. Fretwell, Saltram Park and Garden Survey (National Trust, 1990/91).

Saltram House Garden Guide, (National Trust, 1993).

C. Fiennes, The Illustrated Journeys of Celia Fiennes 1685-c1712, ed. C. Morris

(1995), pp. 200-201.

T. Gray, The Garden History of Devon An Illustrated Guide to Sources (1995), pp.

196-99.

Saltram, guidebook, (National Trust, 1998).

Saltram, guidebook (National Trust, 2005)

Maps

B. Donn, A Map of the County of Devon (1765).

Ordnance Survey Drawing (1784-86).

OS Old Series 1” to 1 mile, published 1809.

Tithe map for Plympton St. Mary parish, 1840.

OS 6” to 1 mile: 1st edition, surveyed 1869, published 1886

Illustrations

W Tomkins, a view north-west across the park at Saltram (1770), National Trust.

W Tomkins, the amphitheatre and Laira (1770), National Trust

W Tomkins, The River Plym and Saltram Wood (1771), National Trust

W Tomkins, two views of Mount Edgcumbe and Plymouth Sound from Saltram (late

C18), National Trust

W. Angus, Seats of the Nobility and Gentry in Great Britain and Wales (1787), pl. 21.

P Rogers, two views of Saltram from the south-west and Saltram from the north-east

(c 1813), National Trust

R. Ackerman, Repository, 6, (1825), pl. 1.

W. Gendall, Views of Country Seats, 2 (1830), 41.

J. Britton and E.W. Brayley, The Beauties of England and Wales, 4, (1809).

Archival items

Family and Estate accounts, late C18 and early C19, West Devon Record Office 69,

V1-4 and V5-10.

Parker and Robinson correspondence, late C18, WDRO 430.

Parker correspondence, late C18 and early C19, WDRO 1259.

Morley Papers including correspondence and Journals of 3rd Earl, late C18 and late

C19, British Library Add Mss 48218-48301.

Planting diaries 1886-94, and two others to 1921, National Trust, Saltram House.

Robert Adam’s designs for Saltram and Boringdon, Sir John Soane’s Museum: vol.

46:171 (Castle in cottage style); vol. 49:62 (Boringdon arch); vol. 51:90 (Stag

Lodges); vol. 51:91 (Stag Lodges).

Description written: December 1998; revised May 1999, July 1999; revised with

boundary amendments, January 2007

Register Inspector: JML


Map 5. Proposed Register boundary.


References

Fletcher, Ronald, 1970, The Parkers at Saltram, 1769-89, BBC: London.

Gent, T H, nd, Archaeological Excavation at Hazel Grove, Elburton, Exeter

Archaeology Report, 96.04.

Gill, Crispin, 1997, The Plymouth River, Devon Books: Plymouth.

Nicholas Pearson Associates, 1999, Saltram Historic Landscape Survey and

Management Plan, National Trust.

Nicholas Pearson Associates, 2003, Preliminary Appraosal of the Potential Effcts of

Plymstock Quarry on the Historic Landscape of Saltram Park, Westbury Homes.

LDA Design, 2006, Plymouth Eastern Corridor Urban Fringe Study, Plymouth City

Council et al.

Land Use Consultants, 2000, Greenspace Assessment for the City of Plymouth.

Passmore, A, 2004, Archaeological Evaluation at Plymstock Quarry, Exeter

Archaeology Report 04.29

Abbreviations

BL British Library, London.

DRO Devon Record Office, Exeter.

EH English Heritage

WDRO West Devon Record Office, Plymouth

WCSL West Country Studies Library, Exeter

4. Plymstock Quarry - PLYMOUTH.GOV.UK

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