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Making Mineral Makeup Module 4 Plush Folly Ltd
Making Mineral & Coloured Makeup
A Distance Learning Course
Module 4
The products you make and the ingredients you use during this
course are for personal use only and must not be sold commercially.
If you intend to make and sell cosmetic products, your product
formulation must be certified by a cosmetic chemist and conform
to the cosmetic regulations laid out in the DTI guide. See our EU
Cosmetic Legislation workshop or distance learning course for
more
details.
Plush Folly cannot be held responsible for any adverse reactions
caused by handling and/or using the ingredients. As with all new
products, please do a patch test if you are unsure of suitability
for your
skin.
Plush Folly Ltd
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Module Four 1 Making liquid makeup products 2 Using
preservatives in makeup 3 Other additives and ingredients used in
makeup products 4 Face makeup products 5 Recipes making a primer,
foundation and concealer
1 Making liquid makeup products Whilst moving away slightly from
being 100% mineral, liquid makeup products can be versatile and are
often easier to apply than powdered products. Typical liquid
products that fall into this easier to apply category include
eyeliner and foundation. Waters The liquid products may contain oil
as part of the liquid and they are likely also to contain water.
Whilst you can use tap or cooled boiled water, it is preferable to
use spring, deionised, distilled or floral water. Spring water can
be obtained from most supermarkets and you will find deionised
and/or distilled water in hardware shops or car accessory shops.
These waters are usually used in car batteries, steam irons and
other electrical items to prevent a build up of minerals on the
internal components. Floral waters Floral waters (hydrolats) are a
by-product of essential oil distillation. To create essential oils
using the steam distillation method, the aromatic plant material is
plunged into boiling water. As the water continues to boil it gives
off steam. This steam carries the aroma and
certain beneficial properties from the plant material. The steam
is collected and cooled so that it condenses back into water. At
this point there will hopefully be droplets of oil floating on the
surface of the condensed water this is the essential oil that is
extracted off. The remaining water is the hydrolat or floral water.
This water is widely used in cosmetic products and can successfully
be used in makeup products. As well as bringing beneficial
properties to your makeup, it will also give the product a subtle
aroma.
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Other liquid products Although not technically a water, aloe
vera liquid can be used in makeup products either as a blend with
water or as a substitute to water. We recommend the use of a
preservative whether you are using water, hydrolats or aloe vera in
your makeup products.
2 Using preservatives in makeup As soon as you use water in a
makeup product you should also use a preservative. Water is a
breeding ground for bacteria and once water is mixed with other
ingredients it becomes an ideal environment for bacteria, yeast,
fungus and mould to breed and therefore multiply. If any of these
microbes become in contact with the skin or enter the body via open
pores, tear ducts, nostrils or mouth, infection can develop causing
all sorts of unpleasant reactions. A preservative will prevent the
growth of these micro-organisms and kill off any spores present in
your product.
Preservatives are an important ingredient in makeup products as
the addition of a preservative will allow your product to remain
clean and safe for up to three years or so. Products containing
water and no preservative will have a shelf life of as little as
two weeks. Since most of the makeup products created wont be used
up in two weeks, even if used every day, it would be a shame to
waste the product and awful to develop a skin infection due to the
product going off.
The most important factor of any makeup product is NOT just how
lovely it looks on your skin, but that it is safe to use.
Commercial makeup will contain preservatives to allow them to
remain fresh, safe to use and non-toxic during the period of time
from manufacture to the time the customer is finished using the
makeup product. In some cases, this extends to several years.
To prevent and control the speed of growth and volume of the
microorganisms you will need to use a preservative in your makeup
products that contain water. You need to include enough
preservative to control microbial growth, yet not too much so as to
cause allergies, dermatitis or any side effects.
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Good habits to prevent the growth of unwanted microbes
It is important to remember that if you are making natural,
preservative-free makeup products they will not stay fresh for as
long as commercial products. Making your products in small batches
that are used within a short period of time will help to avoid the
need for preservatives.
In order to minimise the introduction and growth of bacteria in
your freshly made makeup, there are some sensible practices you can
adopt.
Be sure your hands, work surface, and utensils are scrupulously
clean when creating your products. This will help ensure that you
do not introduce bacteria or contaminate your batch.
Store your products in a cool, dark place. Sunlight, heat and
moisture all help to deteriorate your product. Always make sure
that the lids are replaced after opening the container.
Use spring water, deionised or distilled water in your makeup
products. Ensure that your packaging is airtight. Some products may
oxidize and go rancid
when exposed to air. Avoid putting your fingers into your
product. Bacteria on your fingers can be
transferred to the product in this way. Instead of using your
fingers, use a clean spatula, lolly stick or cotton bud
instead.
Storing your foundation or primers in an air-tight pump is a
very successful method of eliminating the introduction of bacteria
via transference from fingers
Keep your products cool. Store your products in the fridge and
ensure that they are labelled with the production date. Note that
makeup that contains a preservative does not need to be stored in a
fridge, nor do makeup products that do not contain water.
What makes good preservative?
A good preservative must be one that can overcome the broad
spectrum of microbes whilst ensuring that it does not harm the skin
or cause weakening or deterioration to any of the other ingredients
contained in the product. A good preservative will be safe for use
on the skin, prevent the growth of broad spectrum activity
(bacteria, mould, yeast and fungus), ensure that this growth is
suppressed for the duration of the makeup products shelf life, be
efficient over a wide pH range, work with other ingredients in the
product and not cause any unnecessary smell or change to the
product.
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Natural preservatives
Are there any natural preservatives? The answer is yes and no.
Most preservatives contain chemicals and these chemicals can be
natural, or they may be manmade. So let us ask if there are any
natural preservatives that do not contain chemicals that you may
not want to put onto your skin.
There are no 100% natural preservatives that are sufficiently
adequate to keep your makeup products safe and bacteria-free for as
long as an unnatural processed preservative. Commercially produced
makeup products are likely to be stored in warehouses, on shop
shelves and in our cupboards for up to three years (or more) and
therefore need to be preserved as thoroughly as possible, which
means chemical preservatives designed for longevity as well as
being thoroughly tested for skin suitability.
Natural preservatives are very much still a topic of debate as
there is still some way to go with regards to proof of success.
Natural and easily obtainable ingredients that may help to keep
your makeup products safe for a period of time include essential
oils (tea tree, thyme, rosemary), neem oil, vitamin E, vitamin C,
grapefruit seed extract, rosemary extract, honey, sugar, lemon and
salt. Many of these are not suitable for use in makeup products
(honey, sugar, lemon, salt and so on) and many of them will add a
strong aroma to the product (the essential oils).
Essential oils are natural substances that can have excellent
preservative properties, but are yet to be used extensively to
preserve cosmetic products. We know that essential oils used in
perfumes are powerful antiseptics that kill most of the harmful
bacteria and fungi without harming the human system. The addition
of a single drop of sweet orange essential oil to 50g of an
emulsified (water and oil) product will most likely keep bacteria
at bay for several weeks.
Grapefruit Seed Extract GSE is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic,
disinfectant and preservative. It is used to promote healing.
Grapefruit Seed Extract, according to published sources, is
effective against more than 800 bacterial and viral organisms, 100
strains of fungus, and a large number of single-cell and
multi-celled parasites. Sounds good, but it can be irritating to
skin so always patch test first.
Essential Oils Those with the best preservative properties
include tea tree, lemon, benzoin, cinnamon, clove, eucalyptus,
lavender, rose, rosemary, sage, sandalwood and thyme. Unfortunately
the levels of essential oil required to boost the preservation to
acceptable proportions would make the product too strong in terms
of both aroma and potency to apply to the skin.
Blended preservatives
The preservative we have provided you with for use during this
course is either Microkill COS or Optiphen. We have no preference
towards one, both work in the same way and both have been tested
extensively for skin safety both in the short and longer term.
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Each of these preservatives contains phenoxyethanol and caprylyl
glycol. Microkill also contains chlorphenesin. Between them, these
individual ingredients create an odourless, clear, slightly
emollient liquid that will kill off all known instances of fungus,
mould, bacteria and fungus. Both preservatives are used in baby
products.
Im sure that if you search through the internet you will find
both positive and negative reports on the individual ingredients.
At the time of writing, there is no trend that makes these
preservatives either better or worse than other similar products on
the market, but knowing how fickle cosmetic emotions are, no doubt
that at some point they will drop out of favour and probably back
in again!
Another preservative that is getting some interest is Microkill
ECT (not to be confused with Microkill COS mentioned above).
Microkill ECT has been approved by ECOcert and can be used in
organic products.
Microkill ECT can be broken down into benzyl alcohol, salicylic
acid, glycerine and sorbic acid. It works by creating an
environment that bacteria cannot thrive in (an acid environment
think lemons and vinegar as preservatives). However, the pH will
more than likely need to be adjusted as this will be too acid for
the skin. To adjust the pH to a more skin friendly level, you will
need to add an alkali such as diluted sodium hydroxide.
Please do take time out to satisfy yourself that whatever
preservative you choose, it is suitable for skin, wont have an
adverse reaction with any of the other ingredients you are using,
that it wont bring any unwanted odour or colour to your product and
that it will do what it is supposed to do without causing any
concerns.
The internet is a useful tool for research but it can also act
as chief scaremonger when information is not fully understood and
reported in a shock, horror, probe! type fashion. Both
phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol have had their fair share of bad
press and yet if they werent safe, they wouldnt be approved for use
in cosmetic products nor have the proven track record they both
currently enjoy.
How do I know if my preservative works?
In order to be able to sell your products legally, your formula
(makeup recipe) will need to be approved by a cosmetic chemist
(toxicologist) and if it contains water and therefore a
preservative, it is likely to require challenge and stability
tests.
Every cosmetic product that requires a preservative will have a
different need. Several factors have an impact on which
preservative is best for that particular product
Type of product leave on creams need different levels of
preservative than a shampoo.
Use of product a mascara may require a different preservative to
a lipstick.
Shelf life the longer you wish your makeup product to last, the
more preservative you will need to use.
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Typically, if you have no preservative, your water-content
product will last a few days to a few weeks.
With the addition of a preservative such as grapefruit seed
extract at 1%, you will extend the shelf life to a few weeks to a
few months.
With the use of a recognised, suitable preservative such as
Microkill at 1%, you will extend your products shelf life to 1
year. Challenge test In order to prove that your preservative works
you can pay to have your product challenge tested. If you plan to
sell your makeup products, this test is compulsory. A challenge
test is a test undertaken in a laboratory. Your makeup product will
be introduced to millions of microbacteria and tested over a period
of time, usually six weeks, to see how much, if any, of the
bacteria are thriving. If, at the end of the test, there are
unacceptable levels of bacteria remaining in your product, it will
fail the test. If the levels of bacteria are non-existent your
product will pass and you will be able to take your product to
market. Stability test A stability test is a test undertaken in a
laboratory. Your makeup product will be subjected to changes in
conditions such as temperature, light and movement. If, at the end
of your test, which is usually over a three month period, the
product has separated, deteriorated or changed in some other
unacceptable way, it will fail the test. If it remains as you
expected, then it will pass and you will be able to take your
product to market. The main problem with natural preservatives is
that they are not likely to be strong enough to ensure product
safety over a prolonged period of time. Non-aqueous products
Makeup products that do not contain water are unlikely to
require the addition of a preservative as there is no water to
encourage bacteria growth. Products such as powder / pressed
powders, cream eye shadows, lip products and primers will have a
natural shelf life of more than a few months plus providing they
are used and stored properly.
The formula for these products will still require being checked
(safety assessed) and certified by a cosmetic chemist, but no
physical testing of the product is required. These tests are much
quicker and consequently usually much cheaper than the challenge
tests.
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What actually happens if the product goes off?
The first side effect that you are likely to notice is spots of
greyish green mould growing on the surface of your product. Other
indications may be that the product has developed an off or rancid
smell or that it feels a little stingy (acid) on your skin. This is
due to a change in pH.
The product may discolour or turn cloudy when it was previously
clear. It may also become thinner and runnier.
Do not be afraid to use a preservative! They are safe and
effective if used properly. Keep your makeup containers, your work
surfaces, equipment, utensils and hands clean to help your products
fresh and free from grizzly microbes. Throw away a product if you
believe it has gone off.
3 Other additives and ingredients benefits So far, during the
course we have looked at a range of functional ingredients that are
required to enable a makeup product to work properly and feel good.
We still have a few to go so let us discuss these here and learn
about why we might consider including them.
Ingredient Name
INCI label name Function / benefit
Cyclomethicone Cyclomethicone Gives fabulous glide across the
skin. Imparts a silky, powdery feel on the skin. Goes on as a
liquid but dries quickly leaving no greasy or sticky residue. Key
ingredient in a primer
Iso Propyl Myristate Iso Propyl Myristate Derived from the fatty
myristic acid found in oils such as coconut oil, iso propyl
myristate will impart a silky feel on the skin whilst moisturising.
Dries leaving no sticky or oily residue. A very useful ingredient
in a primer
Olive squalane Squalane Derived from olives, this very
nourishing clear liquid penetrates the skin well. Stuffed full of
anti-ageing, anti-oxidant properties whilst being light and silky.
Glides across the skin leaving a slightly dewy residue
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Ingredient Name
INCI label name Function / benefit
Melon seed oil Momordica Charantia (Melon Seed) Oil
A wonderfully nourishing oil that penetrates the skin well.
Melon seed oil is absorbed quickly and thoroughly leaving no oily
residue. Melon seed oil is healing, protecting and gentle and a
good source of vitamin C
Rice bran oil Oryza sativa (Rice) Bran Oil
An extremely nourishing oil rich in vitamin E. Rice bran oil
will condition the skin and help treat any inflamed areas. It is
antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and skin softening
Rosehip oil Rosa Canina (Fruit) Oil Rosehip is a healing oil
rich in vitamin A. It helps reduce the signs of scarring and will
encourage new skin grown whilst repairing damaged tissue
Avocado oil Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Avocado oil is a light oil that penetrates the skin well leaving
no traces of oil on the surface. Avocado oil has anti wrinkle and
skin soothing properties and it actively encourages new skin cell
regeneration. It is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B5, D & E and
is known for its healing abilities
Rose water Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Distillate
As with all floral waters, rose water is a by-product of
essential oil production via the steam distillation method. Rose
water has a subtle, pleasant aroma and will help to skin hydrated.
Rose water will help to calm any red patches and treat broken
capillaries
Essential oil various Essential oils are potent active
ingredients and only one or two drops can make a big difference in
treating a skin complaint. Essential oils have a strong aroma and
will perfume your makeup products. See the chart below for suitable
essential oils and their properties
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Essential oils, skin suitability and benefits
Carrot seed All skin types
Daucus Carrota Rejuvenating effect, smoothes and softens
Cedarwood Oily skin
Cedrus Atlantica Brings relief to itchy skin and helps balance
oily skin
Chamomile (Roman) Dry, sensitive skin
Anthemis Nobilis Very soothing for dry skin and rashes
Frankincense Mature, dry skin
Boswellia Carterii Reduces oil production, marvellous skin
rejuvenator for more mature skin. Soothing and healing
Geranium Combination skin
Pelargonium Graveolens
A well rounded essential suitable for both oily and dry skins.
Soothes insect bites as well as burns and sores. Geranium also
helps to reduce bruising and improves blood circulation
Lavender All skin types
Lavandula Angustifolia
Helps treat wounds and burns and will speed up the healing
process. Said to help with scar reduction. Fabulous at cooling sun
and windburn and will sooth itchy skin
Neroli Mature skin
Citrus Aurantium Great for broken veins and stretch marks. Helps
stimulate cell renewal and therefore regenerates skin
Patchouli All skin types, problem skin
Pogostemon cablin
Helps to renew and regenerate skin tissue and cells. Fights
infection and fungal infections. A great all purpose skincare
treatment
Rose Dry skin
Rosa Damascena / Rose Otto
Fabulously rehydrating and moisturising especially for dry and
sensitive skin. Reduces redness and inflammation
Sandalwood Dry skin
Santalum Album Very rehydrating and superb for treating dry and
chapped skin. Also useful in balancing oily skin
Tea Tree Problem skin
Melaleuca Alternifoli
Known for its antiseptic qualities, tea tree can be used to
treat wounds, spots, pimples, rashes and infections
Ylang Ylang All skin types
Cananga Odorata Helps balance the secretion of sebum and will
help both dry and oily skin types
Essential oils should be added at levels of 0.5% or less. This
equates to a maximum of 15 drops per 100g / 100ml of
ingredients.
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My personal recommendation is to start by adding one or two
drops only and decide whether that is sufficient in terms of aroma.
It only takes a couple of drops to make a difference in terms of
active properties ie. how it will affect your skin.
4 Facial makeup products Whilst we wear colours on our lips and
eyes, the main area of our face cheeks, forehead, nose and chin are
made up with products that match our natural skin tone as closely
as possible. Blending colours to match different skin tones
Different skin tones can be made using a blend of red, yellow,
black and white. Red and yellow can be mixed to get the basic
colour and then lightened using white and darkened using black.
Before you embark on blending your colours, let me just take you to
the cosmetics counter to choose a foundation. You have many
decisions to make. Once you have decided what brand and style of
foundation you want to buy, you then have the fun of finding the
perfect colour match. And that is the part that many of us find the
hardest......and if we find it hard to choose from the skin tones
on offer, then imagine how hard your making cosmetics task might be
actually blending those colours! Foundation When blending colours
for foundation you have the added complexities of using oxides to
obtain a matt finish rather than micas which may be too shimmery
for the entire face area. Oxides need to be crushed so that you
dont end up with streaks. When blending skin tones, start with red
oxide and yellow oxide and crush these together to form a
non-streaking browny orange. Now adjust the browny orange with
titanium dioxide or zinc (both of which will help to lighten the
browny orange colour as well as offer sun protection) or add black
oxide to darken the colour.
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Add a little colour at a time then blend/crush/blend/crush to
break down the powders into finer particles and to allow the
colours to blend together to form a skin tone. When you feel you
may have got the colour you are aiming for, add it to your chosen
medium (a powdered mineral makeup base of talc, cornflour,
magnesium stearate as described in module 2 and later in this
section) or to a liquid makeup base as described later in this
section. Test a little on your skin if you are at home you can test
it straight onto your face, the perfect way to see if it is too
dark, too light or absolutely perfect! Take a little of your
foundation and apply it to your jaw line. Check how it blends into
your skin in different lights so walk over to the window with your
mirror as well as checking in the mirror in a less well-lit area of
the room. Adjust the colour by adding more crushed colour as
necessary remember to always add a little at a time. If you have
scales that measure in tiny quantities or are using tiny spoons,
please make sure you keep a record of the colours as you add them.
This will make it much easier for you to repeat the exact same
colour when you need to make more of the product. Applying
foundation with a brush or sponge gives you a better finish than
applying it with your (clean) fingers. Using a brush or a sponge
will help you get into the crevasses down the side of your nose.
Bobbi Browns website has an informative video showing you how best
to apply your makeup -
www.bobbibrown.co.uk/cms/learn/video/how_to_face.tmpl?cm_re=FOOTER-_-TOUT1-_-10Step
Check out the Bare Essentials site just one of many mineral makeup
sites for you to investigate. They give you information on how to
apply your makeup, tips and tricks to get you started and a
breakdown of the ingredients and individual colours used in their
products. Primers A primer is put onto your face before you apply
your foundation. Ideally you should apply it 10 minutes before you
apply your foundation. The role of a primer is to smooth out uneven
skin tone, prevent your foundation from being absorbed into your
skin and prevent your foundation from wearing off during the day. A
primer contains ingredients such as silicones and squalane which
help set your foundation giving it longevity on the skin. They can
also help to plump up skin temporarily preventing your powdered
makeup from forming creases. Different areas of the face may
require different primers depending on the skin type and condition.
Primers can be applied to the delicate eye area, the cheek/chin
area and the lips before applying makeup.
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Primers applied to the lips tend to be matt and a little drier
than primers applied to skin. Lip primers prepare the lips for
lipstick and lip gloss and help to keep the product stay on the
lips longer and reduce the chances of the lip products bleeding.
Some face primers are coloured and have the function of colouring
your skin too. My preference is to have a colourless primer and a
coloured foundation.
Concealers Concealers are similar to foundation in that they
provide cover, but they are designed to have better coverage and
are therefore useful for disguising dark circles under the eyes,
hiding spots and other skin blemishes. They typically take the
format of a stick, but can also be a cream or liquid. A concealer
should either match your skin tone or be a very tiny bit lighter.
It is applied before you apply your foundation, so the foundation
is applied over the concealer. If you are using a concealer to hide
broken or thread veins, broken capillaries, red blotches, or a
birthmark, you should add a little green chromium oxide to the
concealer as this will help to diminish the red areas.
5 Recipes primer, foundation and concealer Smooth and
sophisticated face base skin primer Ingredients
10ml cyclomethicone 1ml vitamin e 3ml fractionated coconut oil
4ml olive squalane Optional 2 drops carrot seed essential oil (or
other suitable essential oil) 1 drop ylang ylang essential oil (or
other suitable essential oil) Method Place all the ingredients into
the pump or serum bottle and give the bottle a good shake. Label
the bottle so that you can identify the contents. Container:
airless pump, serum bottle
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Application: massage two or three drops to skin with clean
fingers. Wait ten minutes before applying moisturiser and
foundation. Shelf life: 12 months Natural look foundation
Ingredients
Powder base 0.5g magnesium stearate 1.5g talc / kaolin 1g
cornflour 0.5g zinc oxide 0.5g pearl mica 1 tiny white spoonful
gold mica 0.2g (a large pinch) potato starch Oil base a few drops
of jojoba oil OR rice bran oil OR melon seed oil 2 drops ylang
ylang essential oil (optional) Colours Oxides : Red, yellow, black,
white oxide powder colours Ultramarine : Blue Honey beige 1 tiny
white spoonful red oxide 2 tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide 1
pinch blue ultramarine (approximately tiny white spoon) tiny white
spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)
Titanium dioxide (optional to lighten the colour if above blend is
too dark for skin tone) Mocha almond tiny white spoonful red oxide
1 tiny white spoonful yellow oxide 1 pinch blue ultramarine
(approximately tiny white spoon) 1 tiny white spoonful black oxide
(more if you wish to have a darker shade) Titanium dioxide
(optional to lighten the colour if above blend is too dark for skin
tone)
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Method Mix all the ingredients in the powder base together in a
small bowl. Add the jojoba (or rice bran or melon seed) oil and mix
again until fully absorbed. Add the drops of essential oil (if
using) and mix thoroughly. A separate bowl, grind and crush the
colours until they are thoroughly blended. Adjust the colour by
adding more black oxide or titanium dioxide as necessary. Perform a
streak test on a piece of paper or on the back of your hand. If
streaking occurs continue to crush and grind the colours until no
streaking occurs. Carefully add the crushed coloured powders to the
powder/oil bases a little at a time until they are thoroughly
blended. Put in suitable container and label. Container: sifter
container Application: apply with suitable foundation brush such as
kabuki brush Shelf life: 24 months Fresh look powder foundation
Ingredients
Oil Phase 5ml fractionated coconut oil 5ml avocado oil 5g
emulsifying wax Water Phase 35ml spring water 3ml glycerine 5ml
cyclomethicone Powder Phase 0.5g magnesium stearate 1.5g talc /
kaolin 1g cornflour 0.2g (a large pinch, 1/3rd teaspoon) potato
starch Other 0.5ml preservative
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Powder colours Oxides: Red, yellow, white, black Mica: Gold
Warmed taupe 1 tiny white spoonful red oxide 2 tiny white spoonfuls
yellow oxide tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to
have a darker shade) Sweet ebony tiny white spoonful red oxide tiny
white spoonfuls yellow oxide 1 pinch blue ultramarine 1 tiny white
spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)
Method Weigh the ingredients and place the ingredients for the oil
phase in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan
of simmering water. Place the ingredients for the water phase in a
heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering
water. While these are warming/melting slowly, prepare your powder
base as described in the powder foundation recipe. Grind and blend
and then add the colour as required. Do not grind the mica, add
this last once your grinding and crushing are complete. Once the
e-wax has melted, remove both the jugs/bowls from the heat and pour
the waters into the oils jug/bowl. Stir gently for at least one
minute, longer if possible. After the initial stirring, put the
jug/bowl to one side and stir again every minute or so. If the
mixture starts to separate, stir a little faster than you have been
to incorporate the oils and waters. If this fails and the mixture
still separates, place the jug/bowl back into the simmering water
and stir until the mixture blends together again. Remove from the
heat and stir gently until the mixture cools down (repeat if the
mixture separates again). If it continues to separate, add another
1 or 2g e-wax and melt the wax into the mixture. As the mixture
cools, it will become slightly thicker and more viscuous. Once the
mixture has cooled to tepid add the preservative and stir
thoroughly. Add half the coloured powder base and stir again. Make
sure there is no powder base lurking at the bottom of the jug/bowl.
Continue to stir until all the colour has been thoroughly combined.
This may be sufficient colouring, in which case your foundation
just needs to be put into containers. If you would like slightly
more coverage, continue to add the coloured power base until you
have a more opaque product.
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Adjust the colour if necessary until you have the shade
required. Once the mixture is cold, place it into the container.
Label the container. Alternatively add to a small bottle, adjust
the remaining colour and add to a second bottle. Adjust the
remaining colour and add to a third bottle. Making several slightly
different colours allows you to test the foundation colours for
different skin shades. To change the consistency, add more e-wax
(to make it thicker) or a little more water (to make it runnier).
Container: airless pump, lidded jar or bottle Application: apply
with clean fingers or makeup sponge Shelf life: 9 months
Brighter complexion, creamy foundation Ingredients Creamy base
8ml fractionated coconut oil 1ml vitamin E oil 2ml rice bran oil 2g
beeswax 1g rice bran wax Powder base 1 teaspoon talc teaspoon
cornflour teaspoon magnesium stearate Powder colours Oxides: Red,
yellow, white, black Mica: Gold, pearl mica Golden glow tiny white
spoonful gold mica 1 small blue spoonful pearl mica 1 tiny white
spoonful red oxide 2 tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide tiny white
spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)
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Making Mineral Makeup Module 4 Plush Folly Ltd
Module 4 - Page 18
Method Powder colours - place the powders and the oxide colours
into a small dish or ramekin and blend until all the powders are
thoroughly mixed together without any streaking. Add the micas and
stir well. Creamy base place the waxes and oils (NOT the vitamin E
oil) into a small heatproof jug or bowl and place over a heat
source until melted. Remove from the heat and stir well. Add the
vitamin E oil. Add the powder colours and mix well until thoroughly
incorporated. Place into a container and label. Container: Screw
top jar
Application: apply with clean fingers or makeup sponge Shelf
life: 12 months
Easy over bling shimmer Ingredients 1 teaspoon talc teaspoon
cornflour teaspoon magnesium stearate 1 teaspoon gold mica Method
Place all the ingredients into a small dish or ramekin and blend
until all the powders are thoroughly mixed together. Place into a
container and label. Container: sifter container or lidded pot
Application: apply with suitable makeup brush Shelf life: 18
months
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Making Mineral Makeup Module 4 Plush Folly Ltd
Module 4 - Page 19
Hide for cover concealer stick A dual function concealer stick
this one covers and treats as it has healing vitamin rich rosehip
oil, hydrating, skin softening, antioxidant rice bran oil and
anti-aging, antioxidant olive squalane. Ingredients Oils/wax 4ml
rosehip oil 7ml rice bran oil 5ml olive squalane 8g beeswax Powders
0.5g magnesium stearate 0.5g kaolin clay 1g talc 0.5g zinc oxide
0.5g cornflour Colours Oxides: Red, yellow, black, white Make this
one shade lighter than your own skin colour. Method Place oils/wax
ingredients in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a
pan of simmering water. Allow the wax to melt, stirring
occasionally. Meanwhile mix the powders together in a small bowl
and add the colours to match one shade lighter than your skin tone.
Grind and crush the oxides as usual until you are sure no streaking
will occur. Add the powder / colours to the melted oils/wax mixture
and stir so that they are thoroughly mixed in. Your ingredients may
try to set hard before you are ready. If this is the case, place
the container back into the saucepan to re-melt. Pour the melted
coloured mixture into the twist up container and leave to set
before putting the lid onto the container. To make this even more
beneficial, you could consider adding a couple of drops of a
suitable essential oil. Do bear in mind that essential oils will
add a mild aroma to your concealer.
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Making Mineral Makeup Module 4 Plush Folly Ltd
Module 4 - Page 20
Container: twist up stick or small lidded pot Application: apply
directly to skin from container or via clean fingers if using to
cover a pimple Shelf life: 18 months Creamy concealer for tired
eyes Ingredients Oils/wax 8ml fractionated coconut oil 5ml jojoba
oil 2ml cyclomethicone 4g beeswax Powders 0.5g magnesium stearate
1.5g talc 0.5g pearl mica 0.5g cornflour Colours Oxides: Red,
yellow, black, white, green Make this one shade lighter than your
own skin colour. Method Place oils/wax ingredients in a heat-proof
jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering water.
Allow the wax to melt, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile mix the
powders EXCEPT FOR THE PEARL MICA together in a small bowl and add
the colours to match one shade lighter than your skin tone. Grind
and crush the oxides as usual until you are sure no streaking will
occur. Add the pearl mica and then add the powders / colours to the
melted oils/wax mixture and stir so that they are thoroughly mixed
in. Your ingredients may try to set before you are ready. If this
is the case, place the container back into the saucepan to
re-melt.
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Making Mineral Makeup Module 4 Plush Folly Ltd
Module 4 - Page 21
Pour the mixture into the screw top container and leave to set
before putting the lid onto the container. To apply, dab a little
around the eye area and gently blend over dark circles. Apply
regular foundation over the top. Container: screw top lid
Application: apply to skin using clean finger Shelf life: 18 months
Thats it! You are now armed with the knowledge and skills to make a
huge variety of makeup products. Enjoy experimenting, blending
colours and modifying the recipes in this course to suit.