eat in EAT OUT✴EAT AWAY Eat in ✴ Tom Kerridge’s herb-crusted lamb, slow-roast pork belly and treacle tart ✴ Easy Italian menu for friends ✴ The new lemon drizzle Eat out ✴The best pubs you’ll ever eat in Eat away ✴ Plan a weekend in Rome O h m y , w h a t a p i e ! YOUR SPECIAL SUBSCRIBER’S COVER The pub issue
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Transcript
eat inEAT OUT✴EAT AWAY
Eat in✴Tom Kerridge’s herb-crusted lamb,slow-roast pork belly and treacle tart
✴Easy Italian menu for friends✴The new lemon drizzle
At O, we’re very particularabout what makes a good pub –a fancy cocktail list and linen naperydon’t cut it for us.There’s got to beroom to eat in the bar area.We wantto see snacks like scotch eggs andhomemade pork scratchings chalkedup on the blackboard.A pie isessential. Name-checking local
suppliers on the menu is a bonus, and it needs be somewhere wecan drop in for a glass of wine or a swift half with no obligationto eat. In this special pub-inspired issue, we’ve highlighted ourdos and don’ts, asked chefs to recommend their favouritewatering holes and have six exclusive recipes from the mightyTom Kerridge.Tom’s come up with comforting Sunday lunch classics each
with a new twist. Pork belly is served with a black pudding mashand mustard sauce, and everyone’s favourite dessert, treacle tart,is made with brioche. If you’d like to be in with the chance ofwinning dinner atTom’s pubThe Hand and Flowers, plus aKenwood ChefTitanium worth £599.99, nominate yourfavourite pub pie – see page 23 for details and enter online atlulusnotes.com (it should take all of 5 minutes) – good luck!See you next issue, on sale 5 March.
THISMONTH’S£20MENUFOR4
NEW! Your favourite food magazine is evolving. If you’re a regular reader you’ll notice some changes
this issue. We’ve includedMORE RECIPES in the eat in section and flagged these up as either weekend
(when you can enjoy a few hours shopping and in the kitchen) andeveryday – stylish after-work ideas
when you want to eat something imaginative but have less time. We know you love our unique mix of
recipes, restaurants and food-inspired travel, so we’ve combined the eat out and eat away sections so
that everything is in one place, helping you to plan this month’s food experiences more easily.
And don’t forget, for even more recipes, trends and tips, visit our blog lulusnotes.com.
CHRISTINE HAYES, EDITOR
Stay in touch!Email me at:[email protected] @Omagazine like Omagazine
NEVERMISSANISSUESubscribe toO this month and you’llreceive a copy of Tom Kerridge’s Proper
Pub Food. Plus, you’ll save 20% on theshop price when you pay by Direct Debit.
Call0844 848 9747and quoteOLP314A. See page 57 for more details.
Fuel consumption figures for Jazz 1.2 i-VTEC S in mpg (l/100km): Urban 42.8 (6.6), Extra Urban 61.4 (4.6), Combined 53.3 (5.3).CO2 emissions: 123g/km. Fuel consumption figures sourced from official EU-regulated laboratory test results, are provided forcomparison purposes and may not reflect real-life driving experience.
Model Shown: Jazz 1.2 S Manual in Milano Red Non Metallic at £10,495 On The Road (OTR). Terms and Conditions: New retail Jazz 1.2 S registered from 2 January 2014 to 31 March 2014. Subject to model and colour availability. Offersapplicable at participating dealers and are at the promoter’s absolute discretion. The advertised saving of £1,200 (including VAT) discount to the OTR price for the Jazz 1.2 S applied to the retail invoice. Honda Aspirations (PCP): *£140per month example shown based on Jazz 1.2 S in Milano Red Non Metallic at £10,995. Total cash price including 5 Year Care Package (and total amount payable) with 37 months 0% APR Representative (interest rate per annum 0% fixed)with £1,795.20 (16%) deposit, Guaranteed Future Value / Optional Final Payment of £4,159.72 annual mileage of 10,000 and excess mileage charge: 3p per mile. You do not have to pay the Final Payment if you return the car at the endof the agreement and you have paid all other amounts due, the vehicle is in good condition and has been serviced in accordance with the Honda service book and the maximum annual mileage has not been exceeded. Indemnities maybe required in certain circumstances. Finance is only available to persons aged 18 or over, subject to status. All figures are correct at time of publication but may be subject to change. Credit provided by Honda Finance Europe Plc. 470London Road, Slough, Berkshire SL3 8QY. The 5 Year Care Package includes: Servicing: All scheduled servicing, as detailed in the vehicles service book, will be covered for 5 years or 62,500 miles, whichever comes first. Warranty: Inaddition to the standard 3 year warranty the customer will receive a complimentary 2 year extended guarantee taking the warranty to 5 years or 90,000 miles, whichever comes first. Roadside Assist: In addition to the standard 3 yearsroadside assistance package the customer will receive complimentary Hondacare Assistance for a further 2 years, taking it to 5 years or 90,000 miles, whichever comes first. The 5 Year Care Package: The 5 Year Care Package is optional.It is being offered for £500 including VAT (usual value £1,545 including VAT) and is available to finance or non finance customers. Please note, should you sell the vehicle during the period of cover, the package remains with the vehicle.
If you only make one recipe this month, try this cheesy American take on Yorkshire pudsfrom new NYC-style steak restaurant, Stripbar and Steak (stripbarsteak.com)
Keep on top of your new year’sresolutions with these smarthome delivery boxes from Gousto.Each box includes recipes andingredients for delicious healthydinners such as flaked cod in atomato sauce with giant cous cousand artichoke linguine in herb and
Big Cup Little Cup are the firstever Fairtrade coffee pods andcome in nine different strengths,from the rich chocolatey Highwireto the punchy Millers YardEspresso. The pods are compatiblewith Nespresso machines. (£2.80/box of 10, bigcuplittlecup.com)
Love rib of beef but can’t justifythe expense or excess when thereare only three or four of you?Donald Russell’s Single Bone RibRoast (£34. 1 kg) takes less thanan hour to cook, is well marbled,dry-matured for 28 days and veryeasy to carve (donaldrussell.com)
This light andrefreshingBottlegreen pinktonic water is madewith elderflower,pomegranate andquinine, and isperfect for aninstant, refreshingG&T. (£2.99/4 x175ml, Tesco andWaitrose)
OnFacebook,we
askedyouwhich
of thesewouldyou
NOTfind inyour
perfectpub:
Findoutwhat
makesO’s
perfectpub in
our feature
onpage16.
READER POLL
6%
64%LOUD/ LIVE MUSIC
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COCKTAILS
Take part inour regularpolls by ‘liking’
Omagazine onfacebook or joining ourreader panel atimmediateinsiders.com
QUICK BITES
WORTH THE EXTRA
Our wine expert, Christine Austin,
chooses wines to suit your budget
Saint Clair Pioneer Block 21 Sauvignon
Blanc 2012, Marlborough, New
Zealand, 13% (Majestic Wine, £18.74)
The grapes for this wine come fromBlock 21,a single vineyard closeto the sea in the lowerWairauValleywhere cool breezes keep temperaturesdown and the grapes ripen slowly. Theresult is a flavour-packed wine, fresh and crispwith gooseberry and passion fruit notes, the taste of citrus and a long, zestyfinish. It’s perfect alongside grilled sea bass and prawns but also hits thespot with lightly spiced dishes containing coriander, lime and chilli.
Packed with blackcurrant fruit,liquorice and a touch of mint, The
Wine Selection Limestone Coast
Shiraz 2012, 14% (£5,Asda) willpartner a Monday night casseroleor a Friday night steak.
BARGAIN BOTTLE
WINES OF THE MONTH
£5
IDEAS TO STEAL
MAKE SHEPHERD’S PIE A STARA little clever presentation can turn comfortfood into something special. We love the ideaof serving individual shepherd’s pies in copperpans as seen at Mayfair pub The RunningHorse (therunninghorselondon.co.uk). Findmini pans at lakeland.co.uk or a professionalcatering company such as mrwhiteware.co.uk,from around £8.99. For an easy recipe, visitlulusnotes.com from mid-February.
open Monday – Friday 8am – 8pm, Saturday 9am – 4pm and Sunday
10am – 4 pm. Strictly limited to 1 per household. *Free delivery is
available for UK mainland only. Additional surcharges are as follows:
Guaranteed AM delivery £4 (Tuesday – Friday); Saturday delivery £4;
Northern Ireland (Tuesday – Friday) £7. Jersey & Guernsey (Tuesday
– Friday) £7. Selected EU countries – call us to discuss. If in doubt,
please call first to check. Cannot be used in conjunction with any
other Donald Russell offer. Offer expires 31 March 2014
Data Protection: Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of
O) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of
their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if
you do not wish to receive these.
The Traditional Steak Selection includes::2 Sirloin Steaks individuallypacked(packweight 190g)2 Ribeye Steaks individuallypacked(packweight 190g)4 Pavé Rump Medallions inpackof4(packweight200g)1 Pavé Rump Steak (packweight 150g)6 Mini Steak Burgers inpackof6(packweight270g)4 Pork Sausages, inpackof4(packweight280g)
ROSIETEAPOT
OBJECT OF DESIRE
Holding an almighty12 cups of tea, this gorgeous teapot fromCornishware is a must-have for loversof traditional afternoon tea and iconicBritish design. (£75, tggreen.co.uk)
cocktails,all set toabrilliantsoundtrack. (keystonescocktailclub.co.uk)
NOT MANY PEOPLE KNOW ABOUTAshortwobbledownsomeunevenstepsandyou’ll findyourself
at Cellar Bar.Thiscavernous,exposedbrickbasementbar iscool
andsurprisinglycharming– it’sabitofa local treasure.
(43ForegateSt,Worcester)
MONTAGNOLOAFFINÉOur first thoughts when wethink of Bavaria are rarely ofcheese (and mostly of beer).Things are set to changehowever, with thisstunning, velvety bluecheese made by familydairy KasereiChampignon, whichtook home the firstprize at the WorldCheese Awards at theend of 2013, beating2,700 other cheeses.(£14.50/kg, Waitroseand Sainsbury’sdeli counters)
in a pub, but also what makes us turnand walk straight out.CocktailsThis isn’t a swanky ‘nitespot’. It’sa pub. And have you seen the queue at thebar? Please, put down that crushed ice andpull us a pint.
Bangin’ tunesWe’re here to talk, not shout. See also:karaoke, covers’ bands, trad. jazz on Sundays.Wi-FiEncourages suits with laptops to hold meetingsin pubs. Isn’t that what Starbucks is for?Neglected beer It says ‘cask beer’outside, but there are more pumps off
than on. What beer they have tastes staleand the staff clearly don’t care.
Throwback pub foodPrawn cocktail,frozen scampi, onion rings that
The perfect pie can be elusive – but M&S pieexpert Matt Dawson says that once you realisethe secret’s in the pastry, you’ll never look back
The life of pie
Everybody loves a pie.Whetheryou enjoy indulging within thecosy confines of yourlocal pub, or like to savour
the pastry-encased treat at home, therearen’t many things as satisfying asa well-made pie. For pie connoisseurMatt Dawson, product developer atMarks & Spencer, the key to a greatpie is the pastry.
‘Pastry is really important,’ says Matt.‘If you get that bit wrong, it doesn’tmatter what you put in the middle –if the pastry’s not right, it’s justgoing to collapse.’.
At the artisan bakery in NorthYorkshire where Marks & Spencer’s artisan pie rangeis produced, in collaboration with local companyYorkshire Baker, great care is taken atevery step of the process to ensure perfect pastry and impeccable pies.
So what is the secret to good pastry? Matt says it’s a combination of things:‘A good bake penetration on the pastry, so it’s nice and crispy on the outside andslightly softer on the inside, plus a really good flavour; nice and buttery andreally rich.’ He adds, ‘A truly fantastic pie should be full of meat’.
Matt’s cheffing background, which spanned 20 years, saw him complete histraining inYork, serve an apprenticeship atThe Savoy, work on the QE2 andQuaglino’s before becoming head chef at London’s Bank restaurant. He now enjoysploughing his extensive knowledge and experience into developing food productsfor M&S. So when this man talks about what makes a great pie, you listen.
‘With the artisan pie range, we wanted to create a traditional flavour but with a twist,’says Matt. ‘For instance, meat and potato: my nan’s meat and potato pie was one of myfavourite dishes. So, instead of the standard mince and diced potato filling, we’veminced premium chuck steak and added smoked bacon and roasted potatoes for animpressive depth of flavour.We alsotweaked some other classics – thehumble pork pie was our inspiration forthe Pork, Cider & Smoked Bacon pie.’
Once great pastry was added into themix, the M&S artisan pie was born. ‘Wealways knew our customers appreciatedgreat pastry,’ says Matt. ‘So when theopportunity arose to work withYorkshireBaker, who we knew made quality pastrywith a perfect consistency, we couldn’twait to get started developing the range.’
Pastry is the most important
element of a perfect pie
Matt Dawson with his
lovingly crafted pies from
the M&S artisan range
M&S artisan pies are £3.49 each.The range includesChicken & Leek; Slow Roasted Ham, Onion & MatureCheddar; Meat & Potato; Steak & Old Peculiar Ale andPork, Cider & Smoked Bacon.
Who makes Britain’sbest pub pie?We’veteamedupwithM&StofindBritain’sbestpubpieandweneedyourhelp! Ifyour localmakesapieworthshoutingabout, tellusat lulusnotes.comandyoucouldwinaKenwoodChefTitaniumworth£599.99,PLUS,£300tospendatTheHandandFlowers
TO ENTER VISIT
lulusnotes.comCLOSING DATE FOR
ENTRIES IS NOON FRIDAY7 MARCH 2014
PIE CHARTER■ Thecompetition isonlyopentopiesfrompubs intheUK–we
We love a good pub pie at O - one that’s lovingly made onsite, with crisp, flaky pastry and a delicious filling so satisfyingyou need nothing more than a pint or a glass of wine to make theperfect pub lunch.Whether it’s lamb shank, rabbit and crayfishor good old steak and kidney, we want to hear about the best pubpie you’ve eaten.Tell us about it now – here’s how:✴ Go to lulusnotes.com and click on ‘competitions’.✴ Nominate your favourite pub pie on the brief entry form.✴ If your pie makes it to the shortlist,we’ll request the recipe from
the pub and test it in the O test kitchen.O’s food team,M&S pie expert Matt Dawson and chefTom Kerridge will thendecide a winner.
✴The nominator of the winning pie will win the prizes (see right).✴The pub will win the honour of having anO magazine’s Best
Pub Pie award certificate to display behind the bar. If you work inor own a pub,you can also nominate your own pub’s pie and bein with the chance of winning the prizes as well as the award.
✴ Results will be published in our summer 2014 issue,out 23 May2014.Terms and conditions apply,see lulusnotes.com/competition
OBESTPUBPIESponsored by
THE PRIZESWIN! A leader in innovation and style,Kenwood’s ChefTitanium (£599.99)is a must-have kitchen companion forany budding chef, and can be put towork chopping, grating, slicing,whisking, kneading, mixing andblending.The all-metal body, controldial, head lift lever and high-gradestainless steel bowl tools bring strengthand durability, as well as style toyour kitchen.
PLUS! A £300 voucher to spend atTomKerridge’sThe Hand & Flowers(thehandandflowers.co.uk) in Marlow,Buckinghamshire.You could enjoya two-Michelin-starred meal andovernight stay in one of the stunningcottage suites nearby. The menuincludesTom’s signature glazed omeletteof smoked haddock and parmesan,treacle-cured chateaubriand ofLancashire beef withYorkshire pudding,and chocolate and ale cake with saltedcaramel and muscovado ice cream.
The promoter is Immediate Media Co.London Limited.To enter,you must beover 18 years of age and a resident of theUnited Kingdom.For full terms &conditions,see lulusnotes.com/competition
This month, Tom Kerridge provides plenty of ideas for Sundaylunches (and don’t forget Mother’s Day on 30 June). New
Orleans is our inspiration for food you’ll really want to spendtime cooking and eating, our stylish entertaining menu comesfrom new Italian restaurant, Café Murano, and there are 18
new recipes and ideas for what to do with seasonal ingredients.
Steak andale pudding(page 67)
Root beer glazed ham✴Brioche treacle tart ✴Game pie✴Salmon and hollandaise tart
✴Melting moments with blood orange curd ✴Herb-crusted lamb with lentils
49g, fat 97.2g, sat fat 43.2g, fibre 5.9g, salt 3.6g
Roast fennel-stuffedbream with fennelseed and orange oil45 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
This isaverysimplebutstunningdish.
Cookedandservedwhole, thefish lookreally
impressive.Buythefreshestfishyoucanand
askthefishmongerforsmallishbream–you
wantone-per-personsize. Ifyoucanonlyget
largebream,serve1between2peopleand
cookforabit longer.
gilt-head bream 2,wholebutgutted,scaled
andtrimmedoffins
oranges2
fennel 2smallbulbs
dill 1/2 bunch
capers 2tbsp
rapeseed oil
fennel seeds 1 tbsp
flaky sea salt forseasoning
■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.
Onabakingtray, layoutasheetof foiland
drizzle itwithsomerapeseedoil.Thinlyslice
thefennel (onamandolin ifpossible)and
puta layerof itonthefoil.Sliceoneofthe
orangesandputtheslicesontopofthe
fennelandsprinkleonthecapers.Putthe
fishontopandstuff inabitof thefenneland
orange intothegutcavity.Drizzleona little
morerapeseedoilandseasonwithseasalt.
Putasecondlayerof foiloverthetopand
seal thefishupas if inaparcel.Putthetray
intotheovenatandbakefor25minutesor
until cookedthrough.
■ Whilethefish is intheoven, finelyzestand
juicetheotherorange.Putthe juiceandzest
inabowlandadd3tbspoftherapeseedoil
andfennelseeds.Finelychopthedillandmix
together intothedressing.
■ Removethefishfromtheovenandput
ontoaservingplate.Addsomeofthecooked
fennelanddressthewholefishwiththe
orangeandfennelseeddressing.
■ PER SERVING 421 kcals, protein 38.3g , carbs
10g, fat 26.5g, sat fat 1.3g, fibre 5.1g, salt 1.5g
Brioche treacle tart50 minutes plus chilling ■ Serves 6-8
■ EASY
Briochemakesaricherversionofthis
Britishclassic.
plain flour225g
butter 110g
caster sugar 40g
egg 1 small,beaten
FILLING
golden syrup 450g
brioche 90gwhizzedtomakebreadcrumbs
inafoodprocessor
ground mace 1/2 tsp
ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp
lemon 1, zested
■ Inafoodmixer,whizztheflour,sugarand
butterandbringtogetheruntil it looks like
breadcrumbs.Addenougheggtobring
togethertoformapastry.Removeandchill
forat least 1hourbeforeusing.
■ Heattheovento190C/fan170C/gas5.
Linea20cmtartringortart tinwiththe
sweetpastry.Fillwithbakingpaperand
bakingbeansandbakeblindfor 10minutes.
Takeoutthebeansandpaperandcookfor
another5minutes.
■ Inamixingbowl,stirall thefiling
ingredientstogetherthenpour intothetart
case.Putthetartback intotheovenand
bakeforafurther25minutes.Removefrom
theovenandleavetocool.Servesliceswith
adollopofcrèmefraîche.
■ PER SERVING 437 kcals, protein 4.4g , carbs
74g, fat 14.2g, sat fat 8.2g, fibre 1.3gg, salt 0.7g
MAKEAHEAD
MATCH
ROAST
FENNEL-
STUFFEDBREAM
WITHFIANO
Surani Pietrariccia
Fiano 2012,
Puglia, Italy,
13.5% (£9.49,
MajesticWine)
has itsowncitrus
andherbalnotes
tochimeperfectly
withthis fennel-
flavouredfish.
MATCH
BRIOCHE
TREACLE
TARTWITHCROIX
MILHAS
RIVESALTES
AMBRE
Balancethe
sweetnessofthis
tartwiththespiced
gingerbreadandfig
flavoursofCroix
Milhas Rivesaltes
Ambré NV,
Languedoc-
Roussillon, France,
16% (£7.49for
37.5cl,Tesco).
32 O MARCH 2014
Subscribe toO thismonth and you’ll receiveTom Kerridge’s book. Seepage 63. PLUS! For yourchance to win a meal at TomKerridge’s pub The Hand &Flowers, see our pub piecompetition on page 23.
GREAT REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE✴ReceiveacopyofTomKerridge’sProperPubFoodcookbook✴Just£18.70everysix issueswhenyousubscribebyDirectDebit–saving20%✴Benefit fromourmoneybackguarantee*
Call the hotline nowon 0844 848 9747and quote OLP314
This offer is open for UK delivery addresses only and subject to availability. Full UK subscription price for 12 issues: £46.80, Europe/Eire £57, rest of the world £75. *You may cancel your subscription
at any time and receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. This offer ends on 31 March 2014. Overseas subscribers should call +44 (0) 1795 414705 or go online for orders and enquiries.
Vietnamese food offers a culinary awakening for eventhe most jaded palate. It screams freshness in its varietyof raw herbs used to punctuate dishes and itscontrasting textures and flavours – soft, gooey and
crunchy, sweet, sharp and sour – meld together to create anexplosion of sensations like no other. For me, it was love at first bite.
I moved toVietnam nearly 20 years ago to learn about its foodand discover what I felt would be ‘the new cuisine’, planning toeventually return to San Francisco and open aVietnamese-inspired restaurant. But I fell in love with the people, the lifestyleand (of course) the food, which is healthy, often gluten-free,low-fat and easy to cook.
Vietnamese cuisine is very different from the rest of itsneighbours in Southeast Asia who embraced the chilli and thespice trade.Vietnamese food is subtle and light, borrowingtechniques from the French and Chinese, creating and perfectinga very ‘modern’ cuisine 1,000 years ago.
I opened House of Ho to bring my style of modernVietnamesecooking to Soho.The food is a cumulation of the past 18 yearsthat I have been living and working in both Hanoi and Saigon.Some people think it is a quirky, contemporary approach toVietnamese cookery, but I always try to give a respectful nodto the country’s fascinating culinary culture. House of Ho isa 90-seat restaurant that also has a small private dining room,art by well-knownVietnamese artists and a long bar where wehave had fun concocting some great cocktails.
Sautéed beef with ricenoodles and salad (bún bò)15 minutes + marinating ■ Serves 2
MENU DECODERKnow what to order whether you are in Vietnam or at your
local Vietnamese restaurant
PhoThe national dish of Vietnam made with ricenoodles. It is silky and smooth, with tender shredsof chicken or beef in a broth so clear it could passas a consommé.Sweet and sour fish soupFound in manyrestaurants throughout Vietnam, usually featuringtwo contrasting sweet/sour ingredients – forexample, pineapple and tamarind.Bun boA warm beef noodle salad with a verylight sweet and sour broth. One of the best-lovedVietnamese dishes, you’re most likely to find thisclassic street food fare in Hanoi.Summer rollsA fresh rice paper wrap filledwith sticky rice noodles, julienne of carrots,cucumbers, herbs and salad leaves, often finishedwith a couple of slices of roasted pork and boiledshrimp and served with a dipping sauce of hoisinand roasted chopped peanuts. The deep-friedversion is filled with cellophane noodles, mincedpork, spring onions, slivers of mushrooms andserved with Nuoc cham, a classic dip made withfish sauce, sugar, water, lime juice seasoned withgarlic and chilli.Banh cuonThin steamed rice paper rolled andstuffed with minced pork, chopped mushrooms,thin slices of shallots and garnished with shrimppowder and deep-fried shallots. Paired with anenriched version of Nuoc cham.ChèThere are several versions of this distinctivedessert, including sweet corn, tapioca, sweetenedblack beans and mung bean purée. Each is servedover crushed ice, sweetened with coconut creamand garnished with chopped roasted peanuts orroasted shaved coconut flesh.
IF THIS HAS INSPIRED YOU TO VISIT VIETNAM,READ OUR CHEF’S GUIDE ON PAGE 107
Hanoi calamari salad(n·m môc há noi)30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
Step away from the melted cheese.Would Miss Mooreplease step away, NOW, from the melted cheese.Thereshould have been a tannoy. I needed a tannoy, or at leastsomeone to remind me when to stop – or even just that
stopping was an option. It had been years since I’d eaten fondueand I’d forgotten how completely delicious it is.Also howterrifyingly much cheese it is possible to eat when it’s melted.Twoof us polished off all of this between us – and imagine sitting downto eat half a pound of cold cheese.You just wouldn’t, would you.That may be why I had to have a bit of a lie down on the floor ofour rented NationalTrust cottage (happily it was clean) afterwards.It’s also why I recommend sharing it between four.As for the wine,well cheese fondue is the sort of thing you imagine eating on a coldnight halfway up a mountain and it’s Alpine whites that I think offirst.You want good acidity for refreshment, little or no oak, and alithe, breezy taste. Something so fresh it feels like the sting of coldair that hits your face on a snowy ski lift. Picpoul will work. If youmust drink sauvignon blanc make sure it’s a grassy one from theLoire or a clear one from Bordeaux as gooseberries and gruyèreis an odd match. Gruner veltliner is good.As is savagnin, a whitevariety mainly from the Jura. Light reds can be a bracingcombination, too – try marcillac or a simple beaujolais villages.
Cheese fondue30 minutes ■ Serves 4 as a starter
■ EASY
gruyère200g,grated
emmenthal 200g,grated
white wine 175ml
garlic 1clove,peeled
cornflour2tsp
kirsch 1 tbsp
TOSERVE
radishes 1 smallbunch,washed
carrots2,peeledandcut intobatons
white chicory 2,outer leavesseparated,
heartscut intoquarters
red pepper 1, seededandcut intostrips
soughdough2slices, toastedandcut
intofingers
■ Putthegratedcheese,wineandgarlic in
abowlbalancedoverasaucepanfullof
boilingwatertomakeabainmarie.Continue
toheat,stirringoccasionally,until thecheese
hascompletelymelted intothewine.Season.
Stir inthecornflourandkirsch.Removethe
bowlfromthesaucepan,putonthetable,or
transfertoawarmservingdish,andserve
withvegandbreadfordipping.
■ PER SERVING 446 kcals, protein 28.1g , carbs
4.3g, fat 31.5g, sat fat 19.7g, fibre 0.1g, salt 1.4g
Franck Raymond was taught tocook by his grandmother andhis first restaurant,AugustineKitchen, is named after her.
The menu at this neighborhood bistrocentres on cuisine from his native Evianregion of France, and much of the menu,from the charcuterie to the fish, iscarefully sourced from there.There areclassic French starters such as cassouletof snails with garlic and parsley, £5.50,and hearty mains including rack of lamb,£16.95, and roast duck magret, £17.95.Desserts, however, are Franck’s specialityand he is a self-confessed chocolate loverwho likes to experiment with differentflavour combinations.This decadentchocolate mousse, £4.95, is delicious aswell as simple to make at home. Franckserves it with seasonal fruit – you can usefrozen raspberries or serve with poachedpear, oranges or passion fruit.63 Battersea Bridge Road,London,SW11(020 7978 7085; Augustine-kitchen.co.uk)
Singapore crab noodles✴Quick black bean chilli ✴Cauliflower and ginger curry
✴Spinach and feta quesadillas✴Smoky chipotle meatballs ✴Pork chops with apple mash
eatineverydayWe know you don’t have much time midweek to search for trickyingredients or spend hours cooking elaborate dinners, but it’s stillpossible to eat something imaginative and satisfying. Our everydaysuppers are quick and easy. This month you’ll find a great-value
family pasta, a Friday night curry for two, healthy spiced chicken,plus how to make the most of veg box stalwart, cauliflower.
One of the things I’ve learnt fromwriting this feature every month isthat sometimes it only costs a littlebit more to double up on a recipe,especially if your main ingredient issomething that comes in a pack likebeef mince or you have to buysomething whole, like a squash. I’llbe including more meals that feedfour people so you can make afamily-sized supper if needed, or ifthere are two of you, you can savethe rest for lunch the next day orfreeze it for later.
*Recipe costings are based on the exact amount of ingredients used. For example 125g of butter
will be costed at half the price of a 250g pack. Our costings are always based on free range
Superdrug,Holland & Barrett,GNC,chemists,healthstores, supermarkets & www.vitabiotics.comVitamin supplements may benefit those with nutritionally inadequate diets.*(IRI value data.52 w/e 13 Jul,13).
Available from
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RestaurateurRussell Normanat The RedLion, Kent(page 97)
Pro vs punter at The Magazine ✴ ‘Dinner-jumping’ in the Black Forest
✴ 11 great pubs around the UK ✴Where to eat bun bo in Vietnam ✴Rome’s best trattoria
&
Eating out is one of life’s great pleasures – when youget it right! We’re here to make sure you find thebest in the UK and abroad. For this pub-inspired
issue, top chefs and restaurateurs tell us about theirfavourite watering holes from Padstow to Leith, and
we’ve found four pubs where you can stay thenight, too (with a couple of special offers just forO readers). Our star travel writer, Marina
O’Loughlin, hunts out the Black Forest’s food hotspots, plus, don’t go to Rome without our local food
The Magazine is an ultra-modern addition to theSerpentine Gallery in London’s Kensington Gardens.With its bold sci-fi front, the restaurant stands outfrom the gallery’s traditional red brick façade.Thebuilding was designed by award-winning architectZaha Hadid and it’s a sleek space, in greys and whiteswith splashes of lime green. Berlin-born chef OliverLange has a love of Japanese food (even being knownby the nickname ‘Olly-san’) and his modernEuropean menu is Asian influenced. À la carte,starters range from sushi to grills such as robata lambtartar with aubergine and cornbread, while maincourses include Dingley Dell pork, carrots and plum.There is also a good-value set lunch menu with twocourses for £20 and three for £25.■ Serpentine Sackler Gallery,Kensington Gardens,London,W2 (020 7298 7552;magazine-restaurant.co.uk)
SRA RATING 7/10The Magazine achieved its bestsustainability rating for meat-sourcing,as much of the produce is organic andlocal.The lowest score was for fishsourcing, and the SRA would recommendimplementing a sustainable supplier agreement.The restaurant should look to assess its fish againstthe criteria set out by the Marine ConservationSociety as the menu includes seafood and sashimi.The Magazine caters well for vegetarians and iscommunicates its sustainable, ethical stance well.It’s fortunate to be in a building created withenvironmental forethought, and the SRA commendsit for separating and recycling its food waste.
There was nothing appallinglywrong with the food, no leatherypieces of steak, or rancid scrapsof fish, but it was distinctlyunmemorable and seeminglyunable to decide whether it wasAsian or European. Now there’snothing wrong with attemptingto do both but here pretty muchevery dish underwhelmed. Sushiwas notable only for the blob offresh wasabi, grated at the table,which cost a whopping £4. Greatto see a real wasabi root, but whygo to all that trouble when theactual sushi is merely a notchabove average?
Thai beef salad, £15, was packedwith wonderful slices of rare,properly bosky beef and had decentchilli heat.While yuzu juice is aninteresting addition to this Siameseclassic, it’s used with an over-heavy
Zingy elderberry sour cocktailswere the perfect accompanimentto a spot of people watching.At£10, they’re pricey, but a must.I started with delicious seafoodsushi, £12.The portion was on thelarge side but I was happy. Freshwasabi was grated at the table andwas far superior to any paste. Myhusband ordered the lamb tartarbut was served the baby beetsinstead and at an overpriced£11, he felt it was style oversubstance.The fillet of beef, £39,was exquisitely tender but lackedflavour and was completelyoverpowered by the yakiniku saucewhich was very salty and spoiledthe taste of the whole dish.A mainof cod was well cooked, flavourfuland looked beautiful, although itlacked texture. Because the maincourses arrived very swiftly after thestarters, we both felt like we had
With the exception ofa wonderful sommelier,service was sweet butrather vague.Wine listswere promised butnever materialized,with wine glasses leftmournfully unfilled.Despite the restaurantbeing fairly empty ona weekday lunch time,trying to catch theattention of the staffcould be testing. Itwasn’t that the frontof house was actuallybad, just a touchamateur.Tap waterwasn’t offered andI wasn’t recognised.
As we excitedly enteredthe grounds of thegallery, the modernglass restauranttwinkled withcandlelight.TheMagazine has a cool,space-age feel and wewere welcomed intoits cavernous butintimate space byfriendly staff. Our tablefor two was next to thepass, but sadly, thesleek white wall thatwrapped around thekitchen was too highfor us to be able tosee the theatre of thecooking.Tap waterwas provided.
Tom Parker Bowles
is aTV presenter,food writer andrestaurant critic. Hehas written four booksabout food, the mostrecent of which isLet’s Eat:Recipes frommy kitchen notebook(Pavilion, £25),on sale now.
Anna Inman is apre-sales bid directorfrom Hertfordshire.Her favourite typesof food are modernBritish and French.Her best eating outexperience was atGordon Ramsay’sHospital Road andher guilty pleasureis Cadbury’schocolate fingers.
THE PUNTER
Want to review arestaurant? For a chanceto beO’s next punter,join our reader panel atimmediateinsiders.com
The design, cool vibe,fantastic cocktails, winelist and service werehighlights.The music,provided by twobored looking DJs,was annoying andthe over seasonedfood let TheMagazine down.Anna’s bill for
two includingservice cameto £120.66
The room is magnificentand you can gaze out atthe distant form of the
food simply doesn’t liveup to its surroundings.Ingredients are topnotch but, in prettymuch everydish, they’resmothered
bullying flavours.There’stalent here,but at the moment, there’slittle reason to return.Tom’s bill for two including 12.5%service was £171.
hand and dominates pretty muchevery other flavour.The same istrue of the hamachi sashimi, £14.The fish is beautifully fresh(although hardly a sashimi cut),but any delicacy is drowned byan aggressively sharp sauce.
Pork donburi, £20, was easily thebest dish, the meat soft and rich,and rice wallowing in a deeplyflavoured broth.An oozing eggadds its considerable charms, whilepickles supplied a nicely acidic kick.It could hold its head up high ineven the most traditional ofJapanese restaurants. It’s a shamethat everything was not this assured.
A great hunk of cod, £20, waswell cooked too, but the sauce wascloyingly creamy.And dull. Onemouthful was enough – little morethan an edible shrug.
indigestion. Desserts arrived threeminutes after ordering. I opted forthe chocolate surprise, £9.Thesurprise was an unnecessaryaddition of salt to an otherwiseperfectly fluffy mousse and caramelsauce. (It was later removed fromthe bill, along with two coffees, afterI mentioned the salt). My husband’sapple with oak smoked ice cream,£8, looked great, but he dived inonly to find that a simple applecrumble would have been better.If we had not had an espresso, wewould have finished our meal in justover an hour; it felt very rushed.However, I imagine the speed ofservice would be appreciated bylunch-time diners.
FOOD 5/10ATMOSPHERE 8/10SERVICE 8/10
ANNA’S TOTAL21/30
THE GINGER PIG, SUSSEX‘The Ginger Pig used to be a rundown boozernearmyparents’
house inHoveanditwasexcitingwatching itchangeintoan
informalandrelaxedgastropub.
‘The quality of the food and service puts it at the top of my
NATHAN OUTLAW OFRESTAURANT NATHAN OUTLAWTHE SAFE HARBOUR,FOWEY(safe-harbour-inn.co.uk)Once a Fowey local himself, NathanOutlaw (nathan-outlaw.com) was awareofThe Safe Harbour, but first visited thepub when it was taken over by hismother-in-law.Although, he is eager topoint out; ‘It’s a good pub. I’d still go,even if we weren’t related’.
He describes the interior as‘comfortable, cosy and unpretentious,’but the real highlight at this 19th centurycoaching inn is that it sits at the top ofa hill, with views over the town.
‘Graham Allen is the chef. His styleis traditional, as it should be. He servesgood, honest plates of food – dishes thatare everyone’s favourites. I usually go forwhatever the homemade pie of the dayis, with a pint of St.Austell Brewery’sTribute beer.’
What sets it apart, says Nathan, is thatthere are no gimmicks. ‘It’s a true localand offers a haven where you can go andhave a quiet pint and a decent meal. It hasalso won awards for its cask beer and youcan play darts!’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES (during the day)
Allow dogs YES
Serve cocktails NO
Show sports on TV YES (but not so that
everyone has to watch)
Have live music YES (as long as it’s good)
TIM ALLEN OFLAUNCESTON PLACETHE BUILDER’S ARMS,KENSINGTON(thebuildersarmskensington.co.uk)Being able to nip out for a pint after workjust down the road is a ‘big help’ saysTimAllen, head chef at Michelin-starredLaunceston Place (launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk).Yorkshire-bornTimhas worked at some very prestigiousrestaurants includingWhatley Manor andThe Landmark, so it’s not surprising thathis favourite pub,The Builder’s, is smarterthan your average local. ‘It’s a Georgianbuilding that looks both grand and friendly,the interior is mainly wooden,with bigbenches as well as cosy leather chairs.’
Inside there’s a mix of open plan spacesand more private areas, and it also featuressome quirky design touches, most notablythe tiled palm trees behind the bar.
‘It’s a pub to socialise in and enjoya good beer’ saysTim. ‘They have greatguest beers; typically I’ll go for a SierraNevada or India Pale Ale.They also doa good burger.’ Trealy Farm charcuterie,cider and tarragon-battered cod and BlackForest kirsch trifle are highlights, as is thetraditional Sunday roast.
While the pub welcomes everyone,Timdoesn’t recommend taking the family ona Friday night, although landlord Rob ispretty tolerant. ‘I recently met up withsome friends I’ve not seen for 15 years.They haven’t changed and made completefools of themselves, but Rob is cool, he’sseen it all!’
NEIL FORBES OFCAFÉ ST HONORÉTHE KING’S WARK,LEITH(thekingswark.com)Café St Honoré (cafesthonore.com) isa romantic Parisian restaurant in the heartof Edinburgh, but head chef Neil Forbesstumbled across his now favourite pub‘Around 20 years ago, while I was stillworking onThe Royal Scotsman train.The King’sWark was around the cornerfrom the train station office.’ Its appealwas strengthened by the fact that ithappens to be within walking distancefrom Neil’s house.
The 15th century pub does a ‘legendarySunday brunch’, which is just one of themany reasons why Neil loves it. ‘There’san open fire, characterful rickety oldchairs, a great selection of Scottish beers,and the crispiest fish and chips. Oh, andthey have candles in wine bottles, I likethose, too.’
‘Since I live in Edinburgh, I have toorder a Deuchars IPA.A simple, elegantand hoppy delight in a glass.To go withit, I will normally have a devilishly goodbowl of steaming mussels with chips.’ Butif you want something a little more filling,you can always go for an Aberdeen Angusrib-eye steak.
It’s a proper Scottish pub, so much so,says Neil, that it’s the one place he ‘alwaystakes family and friends to show them thereal Leith.’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES
Allow dogs NO
Serve cocktails YES
Show sports on TV NO
Have live music YES (but not too loud)
GARETH JONES OFMR COOPER’S HOUSE & GARDENTHE OLD HARKERSARMS, CHESTER(brunningandprice.co.uk/harkers)According to Gareth Jones,The OldHarkers Arms has the whole package.‘A relaxed atmosphere, great food andbrilliant location. It’s exactly what I thinka pub should be, with perfectly-pulledchilled lager and brilliant pies.’
Gareth is the head chef at SimonRogan’s Mr Cooper’s House & Garden(mrcoopershouseandgarden.co.uk) inThe Midland Hotel in Manchester. It’sa beautiful restaurant split into the plush‘house’ room and calming ‘garden’ (alsoindoors), dotted here and there withfoliage, includinga central tree feature.The Old HarkersArms, though, is where he goes to relax.‘It’s located in an old warehouse,canal-side in Chester. In the summer, it’sgreat to sit outside and watch the boatspass by and in the winter it’s lovely andcosy inside.’
While his own menu is quite bold, whenhe heads to the pub, Gareth goes formore classic dishes. ‘Jeremy Houlbrookis the head chef and his food is traditionalEnglish pub grub, with a few internationaldishes on the menu, too. I usually havethe pie of the day or fish and chips –without the mushy peas though!’ For lesstraditional pub food, go for a pulled porksalad, £11.95, with red cabbage ’slaw,avocado and crispy tortilla or forsomething lighter, the crab linguine, £9.75.
RUSSELL NORMAN OFTHE APE & BIRDTHE RED LION,STODMARSH(theredlionstodmarsh.com)Towards the end of 2013, restaurateurRussell Norman (the man behind Polpoand Spuntino) opened his first pub,TheApe and Bird (apeandbird.com), in theWest End. His take on a pub mixes thetraditional (green leather banquettes) withthe new (industrial lighting and craft beer).The same could be said of the menu,where classics such as sausage and mash sithappily alongside truffled cheesy fries anda wild mushroom and chestnut cottage pie.You can also expect to find a goodselection of desserts, includingbannofeebocker glory or sticky datepudding with ice cream (both £7). On arare day off, you’ll find Russell atThe RedLion in Stodmarsh, the appeal of which isobvious; ‘it’s a beautiful and traditionalwhite clapboard and red brick building,inside there are beams, timber floors andwhite wattle and daub.There’s also big firein winter, cosy tables and some of thedoors have a pulley system that usestrumpets as weights.’ The menu is easyto pick from, with its traditional pastrypies and sandwiches or more excitingoptions of roast venison loin andslow-roasted pork belly.
Stodmarsh is on the StourValleyWalkin Kent and part of the draw, says Russell,is that it’s not very big; ‘as well as the pub,the village has cows, some very ugly geese,a few houses and a church – that’s about it.’
Along with ‘really solid cooking’ and‘proper beer’, this countryside pub is alsodog friendly. ‘The first time we took ourdog, Monkey, she went mental at thesmell of all the good food. I had to wrapher in my coat and appease her with theoccasional potato.’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES (during the day)
Allow dogs YES
Serve cocktails DON’T MIND
Show sports on TV NO, NO, NO!
Have live music OCCASIONALLY
CHRIS GOLDINGOF APEROTHE JOLLY SAILOR,ORFORD(jollysailororford.co.uk)Apero (aperorestaurantandbar.com) isa chic bar and restaurant in London’sTheAmpersand Hotel and head chef ChrisGolding creates imaginative,unpretentious food that makes the mostof British seasonal produce.This alsoseems to be the ethos at his favourite pub,The Jolly Sailor, where ‘the menu issimple and uses seasonal, local produce,fish is caught locally and meat is fromnearby farms.Aspall cider is brewed justthree miles down the road.’The variedmenu covers everything from starters andsnacks to salads, platters and mains andtraditional pub food sits alongside moreinteresting dishes, suchas wholeshell mussels.
It’s somewhere he’s been going to fora number of years. ‘My nan and grandadused to take me there as a kid. It’s actuallyaround 200 years old, has a thatched roofand the great thing about it is that it hasn’tchanged in years.There are noTVs ormusic, just nice food and drink withpeople sitting around talking.’
‘I remember visiting with my three sisterswhen we were kids, sitting around a bigwooden table eating pork scratchings andlistening to my grandad’s bad jokes.’
The pub seems as friendly andwelcoming as the name suggests, andcaters for everyone. ‘It’s a great mix ofpeople, families on holiday, locals, youngand old,’ says Chris, and has that keyingredient of every good local; ‘thelandlord is very friendly.’
MARK SARGEANT OFPLUM + SPILT MILKTHE FIVE BELLS,BRABOURNE(fivebellsinnbrabourne.com)‘The Five Bells in Brabourne, Kent,is an absolute gem of a pub in the mostquintessentially Kentish village you canimagine,’ says Mark. ‘With rolling rapefields and thatched cottages, it’s anabsolutely beautiful place.’
As chef director of Plum + Spilt Millk(plumandspiltmilk.com), Mark Sargeantoversees a menu that brings beautifulBritish ingredients to the fore, and thatpartially explains his love of this pub.‘Everything is local, including the ales.They do classic pub food, black pudding,scotch eggs, roast dinners and beautifulfish. I usually have the gamekeeper’slunch of game pie, pork sausage, crustycob, celery, and local pickles.To wash it alldown, a pint of one of the local ales thatare on.’
Mark foundThe Five Bells throughfriends who live down the road, and whileit’s a traditional-looking pub on the
outside, it’s anything but on the inside.‘Owned by an interior designer, the pubhas a stunning atmosphere. It’s only veryslightly modern, but it keeps all thecharacter of a classic pub with open firesand brass tables.There’s even an oldbutcher’s block in use as a table, and theyhave a small deli inside, too.’
ROSE & CROWNThis buzzing pub set onWarwick’s MarketPlace has 13 en-suite rooms; five upstairs andeight newly opened in an adjacent 17thcentury house. Roll top baths and a palate ofcool greens and greys make these a classy act.The menu is equally confident, withchef Rob Hartwell making the most ofseasonal produce. Isle of Man scallopson a celeriac salad were rich withcrumbles of black pudding (£8.50)and their game terrine with duckcrackling salad was hearty (£7). Steaksfrom award-winning butcher,AubreyAllen are recommended, as are dailyspecials such as confit of lamb bellywith dauphinoise (£15.50) – perfectwith a smooth primitivo.STAY THERE Double rooms from£85 including breakfast.(roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk)
THE EBRINGTON ARMSThis multiple CAMRA-award-winning pubis set deep in the folds of the NorthCotswolds. Dating from the early 17th
century, you’d forgive this real-ale inn if itfavoured the traditional, so thecontemporary feel inside the old Cotswoldstone walls is a pleasant surprise.There areoak floors and muted tones in thecomfortable rooms – but this is high quality,hand-wrought modern rather than stuffilytraditional.The decanter of sherry providedon arrival is a lovely touch too.The bluecheese soufflé (£6) and foie gras parfait (£6)are delicious, while megrim sole (£16) andonglet steak (£18) are excellent mains – thechocolate and almond brownie (£6) finishedoff the meal with a salty-sweet fog.STAY THERE Double rooms from £150,including breakfast (theebringtonarms.co.uk).
THE WHITE HEARTA recent renovation allows this 16th
century inn’s quirks to shine through buteclectic, carefully sourced décor like thefour-poster beds and antique furnituregives this pub a on-trend feel. In winter,tuck yourself away at a table next to thefire; the pub’s courtyard is a great spaceto linger over an aperitif in warmer weather.The menu draws from Somerset’s bestsuppliers but has a distinctly Mediterraneanfeel.A meat-sharing board to start includeswafer-thin duck ham and cheese and baconcroquettes (£12.50). Mains featureWedmore lamb, Cornish hake andGloucester Old Spot.A stunning specialof pan-fried pork chop with orange, thymeand roasted potatoes (£16) is not to bemissed if it is available.STAY THERE Double rooms from £85(whitehartsomerton.com).
WILD RABBITStripped wood, muted colours andimmaculately dressed, clued-up staff make thisrefurbished Gloucestershire pub far from yourtypical country boozer. Showcasing localproduce, the bar stocks Cotswold gin andvodka as well as Cotswold Brewery beers.Thedining room has an open kitchen with Jospergrill as well as a charcuterie station and themenu features modern pub classics such asGloucester Old Spot with toffee apple puréefor two (£40) and steaks with hand-cut chips(from £18.50). Bedrooms feature plenty ofquirky bedside reading (NationalTrust guideand cookbooks), Bamford toiletries, robes and
crisp bedlinen. Perfection.STAY THERE A smalldouble starts from £95per night. Dogs welcomeat an additional cost.(thewildrabbit.co.uk)
BitesizeBREAKS
Hot pubs withcool rooms*see page 116 for offer details
I’ve often suspected that there areparts of the world situated on thefood equivalent of ley-lines.Theyattract more than their fair share
of amazing culinary experiences: I’mthinking Ludlow, Lyon and San Sebastián.
The tiny town of Baiersbronn must beon a particularly active one as it boasts anastonishing seven Michelin stars.We’resitting in the marvellously upholsteredBareiss restaurant (bareiss.com) in thehotel of the same name – an absolutetemple to comfort and what Germanscall ‘gemütlichkeit’: a delicious, rosy glowof wellbeing.
Germany has ten restaurants with threeMichelin stars; the UK has four, adisparity I was hoping to write off as theinevitable result of both Michelin andGermany’s predilection for formality andsoft furnishings. But there’s no doubt chefClaus-Peter Lumpp’s food deserves itsplace in the superstar pantheon. It is adazzling marriage of technique, gloriouslocal produce and luxury: cloud-softcaramelised sweetbreads on a white beanpurée scented with balsamic and vanilla;sole poached in olive oil till it’s the texture
of fondant;crisp sea basson a risottoof nuts witha vivid cidersauce.Thecloseness toStrasbourgmeans there’s
plenty of foie gras and the array of tinypuddings, seemingly a thousand intricateplays on chocolate, leaves us dazzled.And
that’s before the matching wines.All I can say is, rather drunkenly, ‘I loveGerman wine’.
Before we’ve even got to this, we’ve hadafternoon tea at HotelTraubeTonback(traube-tonbach.de) just up the road,another spa hotel that’s every bit asimposing, every bit as dedicated tocomfort and luxury as Bareiss. Cakescome from the kitchen of another tripleMichelin’ed restaurant, courtesy of chef,HaraldWohlfahrt: exquisite creations thatlook like woodland scenes with ‘pebbles’made from sugared nuts, liquid trufflecake lollipops, blackberry and almondslices. Our tea sommelier (oh yes) hascreated a blend to celebrate the famousSchwarzwalde kirschtorte, subtle notesof black cherry and chocolate. Of course:it’s Black Forest gateau.
So then we have to have the real thing.At the Café am Eck (cafe-am-eck.de),owner Georg Klumpp talks us throughthis iconic cake: blowsy, chocolateysponge; cream stiffened with sweet rouxso it keeps its shape; the cherries, sharp,not sugary; shavings of fine darkchocolate; improbable quantities of kirsch.It may be a cliché, but that’s because donewell, as it is here, it’s also a classic.
How on earth to blow away thosefood-induced cobwebs? How abouttaking off into the beautiful countryside…by Segway – a most unusual way tosightsee.We’re devastated to find out thatthe rain isn’t allowing us to sally forth,so instead we have ‘Swabian tapas’ inSegway boss Eric’s eccentric and lovelywhite pine Sankenbach SchwarzwaldidylleLodge (schwarzwaldidylle.de). Delicate
they ain’t: pungent sausages, vinegarypickles, black pudding, treacly sourdoughspread with bacon-studded lard. Oh, andbeer. Black Forest beer is making me veryhappy indeed: hoppy and fragrant.
In search of more, we traipse up abovethe deep, dark forest where the capercaillie(huge woodland grouse) roam, toGlasmännlehütte (glasmaennlehuette.de),an extraordinary joint – as if you’d beenwhisked into a Grimm fairytale.Asprawling gingerbread house, perhaps,offering rustic food, their own-brewedbeers and a view to knock socks off.
Less chi-chi than Baiersbronn andas cute as a snow globe scene, isSasbachwalden.This is Germany’s fruitgarden, alive with vines and cherry trees,and home to the famous Alde Gottwinery where we enjoy a riotous tasting– I particularly love their sekt: friskyGerman ‘champagne’. Our new friend,Alexander, takes us on a tour of thesurroundings, to vast wine barrels usedas a unique b&b; how gorgeous to wakeup in the middle of this magical, vine-cladcountryside.To hiking trails, punctuatedby little honesty bars at natural wells,where you can help yourself to schnapps– cherry? Artichoke? Fortification for thewalk ahead - how civilised.And then inthe evening, to a remarkableSasbachwalden pleasure: ‘dinner-jumping’ (dinner-jumping.de); fourdifferent courses enjoyed in four verydifferent restaurants.
There’s caraway-spiked onion tart andyoung, first-press wine at wood-panelledbourgeois hotel Engel; fish plates at ZumFässlewirt, where the décor seems to havebeen designed by a heavy-metal-lovingtroll; vast platters of smoky, velvety BlackForest ham and cheese-ladenFlammenkuchen at locals’ favouriteSaschwaller Burehus Holzwurm; andintricate desserts at Michelin-starredHotelTalmühle.What a trip.
It’s an inescapable fact that the seriouscooking comes out of hotels: there’s moreMichelin-starred indulgence atRestaurant Hotel Sackmann (hotel-sackmann.de).And kitsch? I reckon it wasinvented here.They don’t shy away froma server in full, elaborate national dresswithout a trace of irony.Who needsminimalism anyway?
‘Kitsch? I reckon it wasinvented here.They don’t shyaway from a server in full,elaborate national dress’
bartenders craft cocktails to eachcustomer’s palate.Try an Americanclassic like a sazerac or old-fashioned, orlet the bartender tweak iconic Europeancocktails to your taste (from €5).
2Andrea De Bellis, who openedhis eponymous pastry shop nearCampo de’ Fiori (Piazza del
Paradiso 56, pasticceriadebellis.com)in March, takes Roman dessert traditionsto the next level with his creativeconcoctions. Employing the highestquality ingredients, his signature friedcroissants and made-to-order millefoglie,are decadent, flaky homages to Frenchtradition (from €2).
3Swirl and sniff your way to Italianwine expertise with Vino Roma (Viain Selci 84G, vinoroma.com).At
this wine tasting studio in the Monti,trained sommeliers teach the basics ofdrinking and enjoying vino. Focus on
KatieParla is
a food historian,food critic, craftbeer expert andauthor of thebest-selling mobileapp Katie Parla’sRome, a curatedguide to the city’sbest drinkingand diningdestinations.❶ Please refer tomap on next page
regional specialities at ‘My Italians’tastings or toast to the weekend with‘Sparkling Saturdays’.Tastings from€42 per person.
4When in Rome, cook as theRomans do with Daniela del Balzo
(danielascookingschool.com).Her cooking classes begin in the NewTestaccio Market to buy fresh ingredientsfor the day’s lesson before retreating toher stunning apartment near the CircusMaximus where she teaches her tricks ofthe trade. Classes from €150 per person.
5Get a taste for Italy’s buddingItalian craft beer traditions atBirra+ in Pigneto (Via del
Pigneto 105, birrapiu.it). A rotatingselection of eight domestic and foreigndraughts entices casual drinkers (from€3.50), while connoisseurs come forrare bottles.Whiskey drinkers flockhere for the ever-growing list ofartisanal malts.
6 Rome may not be renownedfor its international cuisine,but Ethiopian restaurant,
Mesob (Via Prenestina 118, mesob.it),is the reason it definitely should be.Chef KukiTadese’s doro wot (a spicedchicken stew) and braised collard greenswill make you forget all about spaghettialla carbonara. Her soulful dishes areserved on delicious home-madegluten-free injera bread. Full mealsfrom only €8.50.
7At Michelin-starred Metamorfosiin Parioli (Via Giovanni Antonelli30, metamorfosiroma.it), chefs
Roy Caceres and John Regefalk blendtheir international culinary influences fora well-heeled crowd. For a thoroughsampling of their creative cuisine, orderthe Assaporando menu, which featuressignature dishes such as deconstructedcarbonara or a lacquered eel, glazed witha Japanese-style glaze, soy sauce, mirin,sake, sugar and eel bones.Tasting menusfrom €60.
Vai in the NewTestaccio Market(Via AlessandroVolta Box 15,
mordievai.it) serves a limited butsatisfying selection of Roman classicsto take away or eat on the fly.Try thepanino alla picchiapo (€3), a sandwichfilled with braised beef made usingEsposito’s family recipe.
9A 30-minute ride from centralRome to the end of the #8tramline delivers you to the city’s
best trattoria, Cesare al Casaletto (Via delCasaletto 45, 0039 06 536015).Themenu blends creative starters like friedgnocchi on a bed of pecorino romanoand black pepper sauce, a twist on theclassic pasta dish cacio e pepe, withmore straightforward mains, suchas stewed tripe and braised oxtail.Theoutstanding wine list focuses ontraditional wines. Meals from €30.
10Aromaticus (Via Urbana134, aromaticus.it), agardening shop in the Monti
district serves light and flavourful salads(from €7) made from aromatic herbs andseasonal produce.
11Just north of theVatican,Siascia Caffè (Via FabioMassimo 80A, sciascia1919.
com) has been in business for nearlya century, serving intense but balancedespresso and other strong coffee(from €1) to a loyal clientele. In thesummertime, ask for a granita di caffe,a slushy coffee-flavored drink servedwith whipped cream. Coffee from €1.
12The best pizzeria in Rome?Sforno (Via Statilio Ottato,110-116, sforno.it), which
rejects the thin-crust, local style andembraces the thick-rimmed Neapolitantradition (from €15). Start with supplì(deep fried rice balls), then pair yourpizza with a craft beer.
added a tasting space next door whereyou can order wines by the glass.Themostly-Italian wine list is a who’s who ofthe country’s great female wine makers.Bottles from €15.
14The ruins of this abandonedslaughterhouse weretransformed into organic
market and coffee shop, Città dell’Altra
Economia (Largo Dino Frisullo,cittadellaltraeconomia.org), which also
hosts a farmers’ market among the oldcorrals on Sundays.
15Artisan gelato maker, MariaAgnese Spagnuolo, has aflare for creative flavour
combinations.At each of her citywideGelateria Fatamorgana outlets, look for
HOW TODO ITGET THERE flyfrom LondonGatwick to RomeFiumicino for(£59 return)(easyjet.com).
STAY THERE
Check into the
centrally-located
and well-appointed
rooms at the Hotel
Ponte Sisto
(hotelpontesisto.it)
from €205 b&b,
or try the more
intimate
accommodation
at Hotel Campo
De’Fiori
�KRWHOFDPSRGH¿RUL�
com), a boutique
hotel near the
market of the same
name, with doubles
from €242 b&b.
ON A BUDGET?
Book a room atThe Beehive(the-beehive.com), within easystriking distanceof the city’s mainsites. Rooms from€70, dorm bedsfrom €25.
*price includesreturn flights andhalf share of thelowest rate doubleroom listed above,for two nights.
£118*PER PERSON
Clockwise from
top left: pizza at
Sforno; fish from
the New Testaccio
Market; St Peter’s
Basilica and the
city skyline
flavours like wasabi-grapefruit and,among the dozen dark chocolate flavours,Kentucky, made with unsmoked tobacco.Cups from €2. (gelateriafatamorgana.it)
✴The flavours at Bun Bo Nam Bo (67 Hang Dieu Street,opposite Hang Da Market, Hanoi) make the wait and the basicbench seating well worth enduring.This place churns out justone dish, bun bo (a beef and rice noodle broth with freshvegetables) but they do it better than anywhere else.✴You will be hard-pressed to find a foreigner at Banh Cuon
(72 Hang Bo, Hanoi).This is a butcher’s shop by day and a caféfrom noon, when Ms Anh, the characterful owner, serves up herrecipe for Banh Cuon handed down through three generations.✴ Serving the dish of the same name, Banh Xeo (46a DinhCongTrang, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 83824 1110) has thebest ‘crispy crepe’ that reveals French, Khmer and SouthernIndian influences. Rice flour, coconut and chicken workingtogether withVietnamese flair.✴ Over the last 10 years, we have employed many childrenaffected by human trafficking at Bobby Chinn (77 Xuan DieuRoad, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, +84 43934 8577).Workingwith NGO, Blue Dragon, our restaurant now self-managed asa cooperative where up-and-coming chefs serve signature dishessuch as BBQ pork ribs with Asian slaw and teriyaki salmon burger.✴ Hoang Yen Vietnamese Cuisine (7 Ngo Duc Ke Street,District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 83823 1101) is my favouriterestaurant serving southern-style home cooked cuisine. It’sso popular that they now have four or five locations.✴A great hole-in-the-wall, Restaurant 13 (13 Ngo DucKe, Quan 1, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 8823 9314) servesclassic southernVietnamese food.✴ For ‘imperial’ or ‘royal’ cuisine, try Tib (187 DL Hai BaTrung,Ho Chi Minh City, +84 8829 7242). It’s run and managed bythe brother of Vietnam’s equivalent to Bob Dylan, and the foodcomes on intricate, small plates and replicates the cuisine of theformer imperial city of Hué.The best dish is the jackfruit salad(a stir-fry with rice crackers and fish sauce).
Flydirect from
LondonGatwick
toeitherHanoior
HoChiMinhfrom
£497return.
vietnamairlines.com
A14-daysmall
grouptourtaking
intheculinary
sightsofVietnam,
learningabout
everythingfrom
street foodto ‘royal
cuisine’, including
stays inHoChi
MinhCityand
Hanoi,plusseveral
cookery lessons,
costsfrom£1,099
perperson,with
accommodation
onaB&Bbasis,
transportand
atour leader
anddriver.
explore.co.uk
InVietnam, life is on the streets.The ubiquitous smellsof fish sauce can be found everywhere; the smoke ofgrilled pork perfumes the sidewalk and the sounds ofrustic kitchens hum throughout the day. Street food
is where the culinary action is, so don’t expect comfortablechairs or many of the luxuries of eating out.As with anygreat street food culture, the food is always the star – oftena fabulous single dish cooked to a recipe that has beenhanded down through several generations of one family.
With so much food surrounding you it can be hard todecide where to eat. Here are my favourite places to visitwhen I’m inVietnam.
Fantastic non-stickceramic frying pansThe healthier, tougher and easier-to-use frying pan
– complete set just £49.99
TO ORDER, CALL 0844 4826015 QUOTING OL102 ORVISIT EASYLIFEGROUP.COM/OLIVEMAGAZINET&Cs Offer subject to availability. Please allow up to 14 days for delivery. Offer available to UK mainland customers only, some exclusions may apply. For overseas orders, please call for a quotation. If dissatisfied, please return unused within seven days for a full refund. **Calls to 0844
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HOW TO ORDERCall08444826015** andquote OL102.Postsend acheque, madepayable to Easylife,with your name,contact details anditem(s) required, to:OCeramicPanOffer, Euro House,Cremers Road,SittingbourneME10 3USVisit easylifegroup.com/olivemagazine
TRY THISMEXICAN CHEESEQueso blanco, queso Chihuahua and quesoOaxaca are three Mexican-style cheeses madein Peckham with organic milk from Kent. Quesoblanco is a soft, fresh cheese that crumbles well,melts well and is the perfect foil for the spice ofMexican food. Relatively bland (in a good way),it’s described by its maker as a lot like feta butnowhere near as salty. Crumble it onto chilli ornachos or sprinkle it on tostadas. Oaxaca is a stringcheese (which means it is quite like mozzarella)and can be metlted onto tortilla or served freshwith a salsa. Chihuahua’sjobistomeltreallywell,sostuff it intochilliesandburyit inburritos.Buythemonlineorsearchforstockistsatgringadairy.com
COOKING CLASSSCHOOL OF WOKSkill-upbytakingacookeryclassandadd
There are tons of lovely looking storage containers
available, from vintage tins and pricey ceramics to
cheap and cheerful plastic. They all look the part, but
for effective storage they need to do the job well. For keeping
biscuits crisp, coffee and spices fresh and sugar dry you need
an air-tight seal. Check lids fit tightly and have a silicone seal
to keep any air out. Before investing in a set of containers,
make sure they fit the width of your shelf. Also, if they are to
sit anywhere near your stove-top make sure they’re wipe-clean;
frying bacon can spit fat a considerable distance.
KITCHEN KITSTORAGE
Nextmonth
Gadgetsonsale5March
Each month, Lulu gives you advice on what it’s worth spending your moneyon for the kitchen, from big ticket items to utensils that you really shouldn’t bewithout. Lulu’s tested them, owns them and really, really rates them
SPICES
Foragoodflavour,spicesshould
befresh,andthatmeansairtight
containers. Ifyoudecantspices
thenwritethedateonthe
containersoyouknowhowold
theyare.Mymainproblemwith
spiceracks is thattheyrarelyhold
enoughcontainers,orthat, if they
do, thentheytakeuptoomuch
room. Ikeepmine inadrawer
(awayfromlight)on insertsto
stopthemrollingaround.Spices
bought in jarsfit intothecurved
trays,andthosethatcomein
bags Idecant intooldspice jars
orthoseteenyBonneMaman
jamjars. Ialsohavesomejars
withbuilt-ingrindersfor
anything Iwanttogrindfreshly.
Apackofsixacrylic jargrinders
is £9.40pluspostagefrom
waresofknutsford.co.uk.
SMALL CONTAINERS FOR LEFTOVERS
IuseCleanClickcontainersofvaryingsizesas
they’refairly indestructibleandthe lidscontinueto
workhoweverbadlytheyaretreated.Theproblem
withsomestorage isthat ifyoubendthe lidsthey
willneverworkproperlyagain. (lakeland.co.uk)
A CAKE CONTAINER
Thecakecontainerthatworksbest is theoneyoucan
getcakes intoandoutofeasily.ArgosstocktheCurver
RoundCakeStorewhich is34.5cmindiameterfor
£9.99.Thishasa lidthat liftsoff thebasesoyoucan
leaveyourcakeonthebaseandcutaslicewhenyou
wantand ithasacarryhandle. (argos.co.uk)
BOWLS WITH LIDS
Thesearebrilliant ifeitheryouhave
recipesthathaveahalf-waystopping
point,or forstackingthecomponent
partsofarecipeontheworksurface.
ThereareglassandPyrexsetsavailable,
butasetwithtabbedlidsmakesgetting
the lidsoffwithoutthrowingthe
contentsroundtheroommucheasier.
Thisstainlesssteelset isstackablewhen
not inuseandwillgothroughthe
dishwasher. (£59.99,domu.co.uk)
CONTAINERS THAT LOOK NICE
Open kitchen shelves can look very messy if
you have a mixture of storage containers, mine
certainly do. I intend to make everything neat,
tidy and matching so I’ve started buying
containers from Sebastian Conran for John
Lewis. I like them because they have a
transparent lid so I can see what’s in them. LJust
containers are equally as good – they vary in size
O is owned and published by Immediate Media Company London Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London, W6 7BT. ISSN 1742/115. Printed by Polestar Chantry.
Copyright Immediate Media Company London Limited 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for
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SMALL PRINT
SOME WORDS
YOU WON’T
SEE INO
Our style is to
write as we talk:
informed but
unpretentious and
with a sense of
humour. We avoid
these terms:
✴TASTY
Toovague.
✴FOODIE
TO DESCRIBE
A PERSON
Toodivisive.
✴SCRUMMY
OR YUMMY
We’renotstill in
nurseryschool.
✴FARE
Wewon’tbe
mentioning
gammonfrom
chainpubs.
✴EATERY
Doyoustopoffat
theseondaysout
atthebuyeries?
✴WASHED
DOWN WITH
TooFamousFive.
✴FUNKY
Just likedad
atawedding.
✴FOR BEST
RESULTS
No, let’smake
amediocreversion,
shallwe?
✴NOM
NOM NOM
Nonono.
O’S PROMISE TO YOU
We hope you enjoyO’s recipes,
restaurant reviews and travel features
all the more because they are served
up with a sense of humour. But we are
as serious about eating well and with
a conscience as you are. Here’s what
the team promises you can expect
in every issue:
TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPESWetestour
recipesat least threetimes.Thecookery
teamtastesandadjuststhem, ifnecessary,so
youendupwiththeperfectdisheverytime.
EASY RECIPESWebelieveyoucaneatwell
athomeevenifyoudon’thavebagsoftime.
MostofO’srecipesarequickandeasy,
andcanbemadeusingaccessibleingredients.
THE ODD CHALLENGEWeekendsare
formoreadventurouscooking,wethink,sowe
includesomerecipesthatwill takemoretime.
GOOD VALUEJanine’s7mealsfor£35
showsyouexactlywhattobuyandexactly
whattocookfromMondaytoSunday
without itbeingapain inthepurse.
SEASONAL EATINGWethink itmakes
sensetouse ingredientswhentheyare
attheirbest.
HEALTHY EATING80%healthy,20%
indulgent is thewayweliketoeat,but
youcanmakeupyourownmind
–nutritional informationfollowsrecipes.
PROVENANCE MATTERSWelove
tofindgreat ingredientsfromexcellent
producers,butthereoften isn’t timeforthat,
sowealsoshopcarefully insupermarkets.
Wherepossible,weusefree-rangeeggs
andchickens,humanelyrearedmeat,
organicdairyproducts,sustainably
caughtfish,unrefinedsugarandfairly
traded ingredients.
OURRECIPESBecauseO’s recipesdon’talwaysgive
exactquantities for ingredientssuchasoilandbutter,
WhyOrecipesworkeverytimeWe test all recipes at least three timesso they work without fail for you
1 The first time is by the recipe writer, whotests it in their own kitchen.2 Next, a member of the cookery team makesthe recipe in the O test kitchen.3The recipe is then tested at our photoshoot.Somerecipes are tested a fourth time at home by individualmembers of theO editorial team – we’re all keencooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe weparticularly love as soon as we’ve discovered it.
✴Testing our recipes three times or more mayseem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly,so it makes sense to ensure you get the rightresult every time.✴We’ve also checked that the majority ofingredients are available to buy easily and provideonline suppliers for those that are trickier to find.✴ If you need help with a recipe, phone usbetween 9.30am and 5.30pm, Monday to Friday,and we’ll be happy to help. Or email us and we’llget back to you as soon as possible.❉ This symbol means recipes can be frozen.Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to threemonths. Defrost thoroughly before eating andheat until piping hot.
✴Always check shop-bought ingredients suchas yoghurt, cheese, pesto and curry saucesto ensure they are suitable for vegetarians.Recipe queries 020 7150 5024
■ Forthe icing,melt thechocolate,butter,1/2 of the lemonzestand juicetogether in
abowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater
(don’t let it touchthewater).Youcouldalso
dothis inshortbursts inthemicrowave.Stir
until smoothandthencooluntil thickenough
tospread.
■ Cutthecake into3equalstripsandtrim
thetops ifyouneedto.Spreadsomeicingon
onelayer,putanotherstripontop, iceagain
andthenfinishwiththefinalstripbutdon’t
ice ityet.Chill thecakeforanhoursothat it
canfirmupthentrimanybrownedges
(cooksperks)and icethetop(warmthe icing
inthemicrowave ifyouneedtosoften it).
Sprinkleontheremainingzestand leaveto
setbeforeslicing.
■ PER SERVING 544 kcals, protein 7.5g , carbs
52.5g, fat 34.1g, sat fat 18.5g, fibre 0.8g, salt 0.8g
Lemon and whitechocolate layer loafWhodoesn’t likelemondrizzle?Thisisasmarter,newerversionwiththedrizzlehiddenwithinit.,plusextraicing.Lovely.Recipe LULUGRIMES PhotographSAMSTOWELL
122 O MARCH 2014
bake of the month
Don’t miss next month’sO – get ahead for Easter entertaining, chocolate recipes andO’s COOL LIST 2014.NEXT ISSUE ON SALE 5 March 2014. Never miss an issue: subscribe now! Call 0844 848 9747 (quoteOLP314)
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GourmetWe have a constantly updatedZLSLJ[PVU VM [OVZL OHYK�[V ÄUK�ingredients that are soughtafter by adventurous cooks.
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