-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
technology workshop living food play outside
3m Geodesic Dome Greenhouseby dragonator on February 22,
2015
Table of Contents
3m Geodesic Dome Greenhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intro: 3m Geodesic Dome Greenhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . 2
Step 1: Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Calculations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Step 2: Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Step 3: A Strong Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Step 4: The First Layer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Step 5: The second Layer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Step 6: Adding the Dome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Corner connectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Struts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Building it up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Frame for the door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Step 7: A Nice Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Step 8: Windows that Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Step 9: Preserving the frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Step 10: Wraping the Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 22
Step 11: Finishing the greenhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 25
Step 12: Whats next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Intro: 3m Geodesic Dome GreenhouseAt home, we have a roughly 3m
wide, semi-circular piece of land. We also want a small greenhouse.
Putting one and one together, it made sense to make a
smallgreenhouse on the small piece of land. It is not perfect for a
greenhouse (only receiving 4-5 hours of full daylight a day), but
it is the best we have.The shape of the ground makes an ordinary
greenhouse difficult. Also, I have a love for Geodesic domes. Since
the piece of land is already round, it made sense tomake a Geodesic
dome. I love domes because they are ridiculously strong and
efficient. All struts are only every pushed or pulled on. No
bending load ever goes througha strut. Also, the structure of a
geodesic dome looks very complicated, but is actually easier to
build, because it is massively over-defined. You only need to cut
the strutsto length and remember the pattern to completely build
it. No tape measure is ever needed during construction.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 1: DesignFirst some theory and material choices. A geodesic
dome is not difficult to make, but a few things need to be
understood before making one.
Materials
Lets start with the foundation. The dome needs to be anchored to
the ground in a proper way. It is easy to skimp out on this part,
since you will not see it later, but astrong foundation is what
makes something last. How you do it depends on how long you want
your greenhouse to last. Here in the Netherlands, concrete gravel
tiles areeasily obtainable for free. They were popular once, but
not any more, and when people get them out of their garden, you can
usually pick them up for free. This is a win-win, you get free
tiles, and they don't have to take their tiles anywhere (weighing
30kg each).The frame is the part you will see, so aside from just
strength, aesthetics may also be a consideration. The beauty of the
dome is its strength, so you will quickly picksomething too strong.
Bear in mind that what you pick will need to be: A. easy to work
with, and B. cheap. You are going to need a lot of it. My choice
was simple pinewood, 28mm by 44mm. It costs around 1 Euro per meter
and is more than strong enough.
The covering for the greenhouse is the last material being
discussed here. There are 3 paths you can take here: Glass,
polycarbonate and foil. In decreasing order, theylast, centuries,
decades and years. I would love to pick glass, but it is also the
most expensive. Polycarbonate you pick if you want to make a well
insulated greenhouse,but the cheapest by far is the foil. It is
easy to work with and is relatively cheap. When picking foil, do
pick greenhouse foil. It is made to withstand UV radiation.
construction
Two compromises need to be made in the construction. The first
is the bottom spacer. The radius of the dome is roughly 1,5m. This
would also have been the height. Iam 1,95m and I want to be able to
stand in the greenhouse. With no other solutions, a 0,6m spaces is
needed at the bottom. This raises the start of the dome, but is
alsoa structural weakness. The dome itself is very rigid, but the
spaces, consisting mostly of squares, is kinda wobbly.
The second compromise is the door. In an ideal situation, there
are no interruptions in the frame of the dome. The door is a giant
gaping hole. Extra wood was addedaround this area, but even then,
it is still the weakest point.
The corner block are the most varied part of the dome. Everyone
has a different system, and all of the different systems have their
own drawbacks. My choice as 2 1cmthick plywood disks, one 15cm and
one 8cm. When these are stacked, they give a roughly 17 degree
angle. The 2V dome that is being built here needs either
15.86degrees or 18 degrees, so it is perfect. The struts are
attached from the back with screws.
Making a window in a geodesic dome is fairly straight forward.
Make a triangular frame that will fit in one the the domes
triangles and add hinges.
Calculations
The lengths of all things (tiles, struts, spacer) are dependent
on each other. I will provide means of calculating all lengths, but
because of the tiles, I cannot provide asimple formula to calculate
everything. It will take some additional calculations based on the
materials you will have available. For the stone and wooden ring,
go to:
http://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry...
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
To calculate the sizes.
The stone ring requires the most thinking, because it is
different for everyone. You will need to make a ring, the size of
you plot. The size of this ring will largely determinethe size of
the dome. Choose a >14 polygon, and for 'a', enter the length of
the tiles you are using. Now keep modifying n until you reach a
diameter that will suit you.Remember that you also need to add the
thickness of your tiles to the radius to get your outside radius.
Also remember 'r' and 'R', these will need to overlap with 'r'
and'R' for the wooden ring.
The wooden ring is at the base. It will have 10 elements,
always, so the length is easier to calculate. insert n=10 and keep
modifying a until you have the right radius. Thevalues that need to
match are 'r' and 'R'. These are the minimum and maximum radius.
The radii of the stone ring need to fit within the radii of the
wooden ring, whereyou need to be closer to the 'R' side than the
'r' side.
In my case: I have tiles with a length of 0.6m. If I take 15 of
those tiles, r=1.41m and R=1.44m. My struts need to fit within
that, so I picked 0.9m. This gives: r=1.38m andR=1.46m. These fit
within each other, and are closer to R and to r.
Calculating the strut length is easier.
https://simplydifferently.org/Geodesic_Dome_Notes?...
Here you will find calculators. The one that is needed is the
"2V/L2 Icosahedron Dome". You will have to modify the diameter of
the dome in the calculator until the B lathlength is equal to the
inside length of the wooden ring. Now write down the A length and B
length, so you will have it available later on. In my case, I had a
diameter of2.915m, which gave me a strut length of 0.9m. This gives
me strut lengths of A=0.795m and B=0.900m. This is inside length,
connector to connector.
Image Notes1. Drawing from simplydifferently.org, used with
permission
Step 2: MaterialsThese are roughly all the materials you will
need to make a 3m wide geodesic dome. If you want to make a bigger
one, you will have to recalculate the material you need.
Materials
Concrete tiles 40x60x5cm (15x)filling sand (20kg)28x44 wood
(24x3,5m)10x30 slats (20x2.1m)plywoodhinges(2x for door, 2x for
window)greenhouse foil (at least 4mx6,5m)humidity barrier (like
roofing material)screwsConcrete dowelspaintStaplesTape
tools
ShovelHammerspirit levelSawhammer drillcordless drill
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
SanderStapler(nail gun)
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 3: A Strong FoundationThe first step of making a greenhouse
that will last is a strong foundation. I decided that a border of
concrete tiles dug into the ground would make a sound foundation.
Itis quite a bit of work to get the tiles in the ground (weighing
30kg and having to go 40cm deep), but it will be worth it in the
long run. For this foundation I will use40x60x5cm concrete tiles.
They are a standard size here in the Netherlands and they are easy
to come by. If you are not able to find the same tiles, comparable
tiles willalso work just as well.To make a neat circle, I made a
special measuring tool. A small stake was stuck into the ground. A
piece of timber with the correct length was attached to the stake
insuch a way that it can swivel. Every tile will be placed at the
end of the timber.
For each tile sits in a hole 40cm deep and 60cm wide. If you dig
the hole a bit deeper, you can then fill it with leveling sand,
which provides a better foundation than theclay we live on. When
the tile is in place, check whether it is level in every direction
and compared to the piece of timber of the tool. When you are
satisfied that the tile isin the correct place, fill the space
surrounding the tile back up with soil.
Repeat this step, in my case, 15 times to make a full
circle.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 4: The First LayerThe first layer of wood needs to connect
to the concrete tiles.
The first thing is to cut the wood of the bottom layer to size.
The angle of the cut needs to be 18 degrees on each side (10
elements, 36 degrees per element, 2 sides),but the length depends
on the size of dome you are building. In my case, the elements are
900mm measured from the inside. It might be wise to test fit the
elementsbefore painting.
Paint the bottom of each of the 10 elements with a primer. Do it
properly, it will be unreachable once it is mounted and water might
get to it. Allow the primer to dry andwhile you are waiting,
proceed to the next step.
A humidity barrier needs to be mounted between the concrete and
the wood. Concrete absorbs water, and if no barrier was placed, the
wood would rot away. I usedbitumen roofing material, because we had
a spare piece from making a shed, but any sturdy and watertight
material should work. Cut it in 900mm long, 100mm widestrips, 10 in
total.
When the paint has dried, It is time to mount the elements. With
my set-up, I had 2 overlaps per element on the concrete. Use a
hammerdrill to drill holes the size yourdowels require. Place the
layer of humidity barrier on the concrete where you want the
element to be, place the wooden element on top and start drilling a
hole throughthe sandwich. The holes should be in the centre of the
concrete tile, else the tile will crack. When The hole is deep
enough, insert a dowel and use a hammer to secure itin place.
If you did well, you now have a nice wooden ring mounted on your
concrete ring.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 5: The second LayerBecause the dome is only 1,5m (5ft) in
diameter, it is not tall enough to stand in . To remedy this issue,
A 0,5m riser is added to the bottom. This will make the top of
thedome 2m, tall enough to stand in (even for me).10 pieces of wood
(risers) were cut at the same length. These pieces of wood are
connected to the bottom ring with with corner connectors. Make sure
the risers areperpendicular to the ground. An additional screw is
used to properly anchor the risers to the bottom ring. Pre-drilling
may be necessary depending on the screw used.
A second ring of wood, 9 elements (the door is left out) needs
to be cut. These pieces of wood are the same as the bottom ring.
The top ring is secured to the risers withlong screws. The front
element is left out, the door will be placed there later.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 6: Adding the DomeNow it is time to add the dome. This step
takes a bit of explanation, and some steps may be under-explained
because this is not really an exact instructable. Some thingsneed
to be done depending on your own situation (like my door
frame).Corner connectors
The most important part of a geodesic dome is the corner
connector. I tried to find something as simple as possible to make
a good corner connector. I ended up with 2plywood (1cm thick)
disks, 1 of 15cm and 1 of 8cm. When stacked, these discs give an
angle of about 17 degrees, perfect for a 2V dome. The struts will
be connectedwith screws from the back, 2 per side per strut.
To make the corner connectors, I found a bowl and a cup that
gave me a roughly correct diameter. Using a pencil to trace the
edges of the discs. Then, using a jigsaw,cut out all the discs.
Finally, use a small screw to connect the small disc to the large
disc, roughly in the middle. To make this dome, 25 connectors are
needed. (Sidenote, a 2V dome actually needs 26 connectors, but the
connector at the front door is not used).Struts
The struts are up next. They need to be cut to length. The 2
rings are actually the long struts, and are 900mm. This will be the
reference for the struts. 2 types are
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
needed: The short type (type A) and the long type (type B). With
a B strut length of 900mm, the A struts need to be 796mm long. This
length is from centre to centre. Theconnector takes an additional
20mm from each side of the strut. To compensate for this, the A
strut needs to be cut to 756mm and the B strut needs to be 860mm
long.You will need 28 A struts and 21 B struts. (this is with the
elements from the door left out).Building it up
I have a schematic of the pattern, and a modified picture
showing how this relates to the real greenhouse. Now comes the
beauty, if you follow, this pattern, the domebasically builds
itself. Don't worry about millimetres, it doesn't matter. You don't
really have to measure while building, just eyeball it to make sure
all struts are somewhataligned.
The struts for the door (2 A elements and 4 B elements)are left
out. The will be filled in later to make the door frame.Frame for
the door
The door is filled in next. I have no exact guide for this. The
main thing when adding struts to the dome is this:
Triangles.
Whatever you do, try to make triangles. This is what gives the
dome its strength. Around the door additional bracing was added to
compensate the weakness caused bythe door. Then a frame was built
that will hold the door.
At this point the dome is at final strength. If you feel
confident about your work, you can test the strength of the dome. I
am 75kg, and my frame hardly budged when Ihang from it. Funny thing
is, all struts are only held in place with 1 screw yet, not 2. This
is how strong these domes are.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 7: A Nice DoorNext step is to make a door that will neatly
fit the frame. How this door will look depends on how you
reinforced the door in your frame. Only important thing here is to
alsoinclude one or two triangles in your door frame to give it
strength.
First start off by making a square frame for the door that
neatly fits in the dome. Mount it in the dome with hinges and check
clearances. When you are satisfied with yourdoor clearance, measure
and make a diagonal strut for in the door frame. Then, make a frame
to fill the bottom portion of the door. Finally, mount the latch to
the doorframe and test it.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 8: Windows that OpenThe simplest way to add a window to a
geodesic dome is to make a triangular frame that will fit within a
piece of the dome. The easiest place to pick is one of the
5triangles connecting to the crown (top 5 triangles). These are all
type B struts (900mm) and has 3 60 degree angles.Measure the inside
of the struts where you want to place your window. Subtract 1cm
(1/2") from this length to give the frame some clearance. Also
subtract the width ofyour timber from this length to allow for
overlap. Then cut 3 pieces of wood at a 30 degree angle at the
required length. Then fasten all 3 pieces together to make
atriangular frame. If you did well, the frame should neatly fit the
hole.
Put 2 hinges on one side of the frame. Take the window frame to
the hole you want to place it in and use a pencil to mark where the
hinges will need to be. Then take thehinge pin out and mount the 2
loose sides of the hinges to the frame. At this point you will
notice that the window will not actually open. The corners of the
window framecollide with the struts of the dome.
Take the window frame out and at both corners on the hinge side,
use a saw to cut the sides of the window frame, at a roughly 30
degree angle. Fit the frame again andsee where it collides and take
wood of the frame where necessary. When you are statisfied that the
window frame is clear of the struts, put it in place.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 9: Preserving the frameThere is not that much to this step.
Sand the corners of the frame (to prevent them from puncturing the
foil), sand the frame is you want to do it properly, then paint
theframe with the paint of your choice. In my case, I used a
transparent chestnut brown paint. Paint 2 coat, and let it dry. I
used around 1,5 litres of paint for my frame.
Please do bear in mind that painting this takes around 10 hours,
it is not large, but it is all beams and has a lot of surface
area.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 10: Wraping the FrameIt's time to wrap the greenhouse in
foil. Now not any clear foil works well. It is best to buy special
greenhouse foil. Greenhouse foil as UV stabilizers in it, meaning
that itwill endure sunlight. Other foils without this stabilizer
will quickly yellow or damage due to sunlight.
Initially I bought 2,5m by 6,5m, thinking it would be enough. I
did some maths in my head, and immediately realized that that was
way too little. I then bought anotherpiece of 2,5m by 6,5m. If you
buy 4m by 6,5m, it should be enough to cover the dome.
For covering, follow a few simple rules.
Always start at the bottom;1.Tension the foil one square or
triangle at a time;2.Overlap from top to bottom to make the water
flow off;3.Don't mount edges of the foil until everything is in
place. Else overlapping will be impossible;4.Try to fold the foil
at the struts, rather than cutting. Every cut is a potential
leak.5.
Use staples to temporarily mount the foil to the struts of the
dome.
Don't staple down the window foil yet. If it is mounted here,
there will be no overlap with the frame and it would leak. In the
next step, slats will be mounted make the
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
window frame overlap with the dome frame.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 11: Finishing the greenhouseThe last step is making the
dome more water resistant. This is done by:
Taping the edges.1.mounting slats over all vertical edges.2.
All of the slats need the same coat of paint the dome had, maybe
even better. The slats will be in direct contact with the weather
outside. Painting itself is pretty straightforward, just keep in
mind that painting 20x 2.1 meter slats will take hours. Two coats
should be enough.Cut one slat into two pieces that will fit on the
edge of the window. Try to the slats sticking out as much as
possible. Then, wrap the piece of foil for the window around
theslats and staple it to the bottom and side of the window
frame.
Take a roll of clear tape and tape all the edges of the
greenhouse. The staples will have left small holes, that allow
water into the greenhouse. By taping them over, waterwill have a
hard time getting in. The tiny amount that does make it through,
will not cause havoc.
Last step is to mount the slats over all vertical (or not
horizontal) edges. Count the number of edges (both long, short and
the spacer) that are steep enough so it will notcatch water, and
cut the slats to the same length as the struts. Paint the edges
after cutting, so the wood is completely sealed. Then, using either
a nailgun, hammer andnails or screw, mount the slats to the
struts.
After the first rain came, I quickly found that the roof over
the door had a too shallow angle. Water pooled in the foil. To
remedy this, another strut was mounted under themiddle of the roof
over the door. This prevents the foil from sagging and stops water
from pooling there.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Step 12: Whats nextThis dome was made for some hydroponics
experiments I had planned. Last year Hydroponics caught my
attention, and ever since I have been working on it. I havemade a
first revision of a Arduino Mega 2560 based hydroponics controller
(photo), which I will probably not share because I think it is too
complicated and too expensiveto make. I will try to make a smaller,
Arduino Uno based controller that is in the price range a
hydroponics controller should be in.
Now for the sad part, I will not be using this greenhouse
myself. I am moving, and I can't take this greenhouse with me. I
move to an apartment with a nice big balcony, soI will be doing a
smaller version of my hydroponics experiments there. My parents
will use this greenhouse, so maybe, if they do something nice with
it, an update willcome showing you how it is being used.
-
http://www.instructables.com/id/3m-Geodesic-Dome-Greenhouse/
Related Instructables
Building aGeodesic DomeGreenhouse -Part 1 (video) byweb4deb
Building aGeodesic DomeGreenhouse -Part 3 (video) byweb4deb
Geodesic DomeGreenhouse -Part 12 - THEEND (video) byweb4deb
Geodesic DomeGreenhouse -Part 6 -Concrete BlockWalls (video)
byweb4deb
Building aGeodesic DomeGreenhouse -Part 2 (video) byweb4deb
100' GeodesicDome forAquaponics(video) byMrAdventure
Advertisements
Comments1 comments Add Comment
tomatoskins says: May 1, 2015. 1:51 PM REPLYSo much amazing
detail here! I've always wanted to make my own green house, and
this is one of the best designs I have ever seen!