35 Spotting and Stain Removal Techniques

SPOTTING

1. IDENTIFICATION OF SPOTTING

SPOT - It is the result of a material adding substance or texture to a fabric or surface. Usually

the terms "spot" and "stain" are used interchangeably in a non-technical context.

SPOTTING - The process of treating isolated spots and stains, which do not respond to normal

cleaning with, specifically formulated agents.

STAIN - The term "stain" is often applied to discoloration, or color removal from fabrics, as

well.

Spotting board with spotting agents

Steps in identification of spotting –

1. The first step in identification is to ask the customer what the stain is.

2. The second step comes from sight.

A splash or irregular pattern likely came from something spilt.

A pattern such as circular or rectangular probably came from something laid on

the surface

A shiny stain is likely from hardened oil, paint, varnish or nail polish

A dull appearance that lightens when scratched is likely from food

A spot that is lighter than its surroundings was likely caused by a bleaching agent

or from color loss.

3. The third step comes from touch. Categories for touch are as follows - crusty, hard, soft,

tacky, oily, wet and waxy.

4. The fourth step comes from smell. This may be the best instrument for identification,

but it is subjective too. Also, caution should be given concerning inhaling toxins from

chemical and bacteria.

5. pH is important when a spot does not respond to solvents. pH reading from an electric

instrument will likely be less than from taken from paper or strips. This is so because

moisture on paper or strips will ultimately measure the dry pH while pH pens measure

diluted pH at the time of reading.

Cleaner spotting garment

2. CHARACTERISTICS AND HISTORY

CHARACTERISTICS

Most spots can be removed easily if the excess is lifted or blotted and treated immediately by

with plain water, or with spotters containing mild (pH range of 5 to 9), dilute detergents that do

not leave residue. If ignored those spots, or components thereof, may bond with fiber dye sites,

forming permanent stains. Immediate spotting is an essential responsibility for home and

business owners/managers.

Special attention to spots and stains must be included in normal job performance. However,

time consuming specialized spotting of quantities of spilled materials or prolonged effort on

color-added spots may incur an additional charge. Customers should be advised of additional

charges before extensive spotting procedures are undertaken.

Spot treatment technique (sponging) for apparel fabrics: A spot treatment confines the stain to a small area and keeps it from spreading. This method is sometimes called "sponging." For spot treatment you need a supply of absorbent material such as, clean rags or paper towels, and a drycleaning solvent, spot remover, or aerosol pretreatment spray. These steps should be followed: 1. Pad the working surface with clean rags or paper towels that can be stained as you work. 2. Place the stained area or spot on the garment face-down over the padded surface. 3. Dampen a small white cloth with solvent. 4. Use the dampened cloth to pat the stain from the wrong side. Feather the edges of the stain working from the outside toward the center to keep the stained area from getting larger. 5. As the stain transfers to the absorbent material beneath, move it to a different place on the absorbent material so the stain has a clean place to exit into. 6. Repeat this procedure until all traces of stain are gone. Launder to remove any ring that might be left by the solvent. Spotting kit - Regular

VDS – Volatile Dry Spotter

NVDS – Non Volatile Dry Spotter

General spotter –Neutral pH

Alkaline spotter

Enzyme spotter

Tannin spotter

Ammonium Hydroxide

Hydrogen Peroxide

Sodium Percarbonate

Bisulphite or coffee stain remover

Rust remover

Towels

Bone scrapper

Spotting kit – Advanced

Steam iron

Steam gun

Sodium Hydrsulphite

Strong oxygen bleach

HISTORY

The textile cleaning industry is slightly more than 100 years old. Most of the changes have

come from the last 20 years for various reasons. Prior to this time a person bought a business

and ran it. In the 1970's the government began making rules form virtually all businesses such

as OSHA for workers safety and the EPA for the protection of the environment. At that time

perchloroethylene (perc) was the solvent of choice for textile cleaning. Regulations began

being formulated and enforced. The decision makers of the industry decided they would rather

fight for the continued use of perc. Of course the perc manufacturers and distributors wanted

regulations to protect them from liability and the cleaner bore the entire costs. Progressive

cleaners started looking at of the new solvents being offered to the industry with fewer

restrictions on their uses.

In the early 1990's a new term was introduced to the cleaning of textiles; "Wet cleaning”. This consisted of water as the solvent and especially formulated detergents, conditioners and finishes. This allowed wool, silk and many other fibers to be washed in water without shrinkage, harshness nor losing their shape. There are some limitations but increased knowledge of fibers and fabrics allowed a high success rate for cleaning garments in water.

Shortly after the introduction of wet cleaning we were introduced to finishing and pressing equipment that would condition the various garments with a slight tension and relaxing the fibers then drying them in the tensioned condition. Many states have also enacted laws regarding environmental contamination and cleaners are slowly changing solvents to more environmentally compatible solvents and avoid some of the charges and taxes being assessed for the use of perc.

As a result of the recessive economy there have been drycleaners that simply could not adapt to fewer customers, less poundage, fewer dollars coming into their business and have either sold their plants or locked the doors and walked away. There is a bright future for the textile cleaning business as long as people wear clothes, but the industry will have to be able to make changes to modernized plants and methods of doing business.

3. SELECTION CRITERION FOR SPOTTING CHEMICALS:

Spotting solvents are used in textile and clothing manufacture to remove stains from fabrics. These can be caused by such things as loom and machine oils, felt pens, coffee, grease and finger marks. Spotting solvents are usually applied to the fabric by spray gun but a cloth soaked in solvent may also be used. Typically, the fabric is left to dry by natural evaporation, but a compressed air jet can sometimes be used to assist drying.

Two main groups of spotting solvents are used – halogenated hydrocarbons and olefins. Halogenated hydrocarbons include trichloroethylene,* 1,1,1 trichloroethane, bromochloromethane and dichloromethane. Olefins include aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent blends and isoparafinic hydrocarbon blends. 1,1,1 trichloroethane is to be phased out due its harmful effect on the ozone layer.

Exposure and health effects

People are exposed to spotting solvents by inhaling mist and vapour and by solvent being absorbed through the skin. Solvents can also enter the body through handling food and drink and by smoking.

The main effects are irritation of the skin, eyes and lungs, headache, nausea, dizziness and lightheadedness. Repeated or prolonged skin contact can cause dermatitis. Solvents can also impair co-ordination and this can lead to accidents. Other effects on health vary according to the solvent being used.

What the law requires

The COSHH regulations require employers to assess risks to health and to prevent exposure,

or where this is not reasonably practicable, to adequately control the risks. The main aim of these regulations is to eliminate or reduce risk to health by selecting the least harmful products for the job.

Under CHIP manufacturers and suppliers have a legal duty to supply users with information

about the hazards and health risks of their products in Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDSs).

Solvents with a flash point below 32 °C may also be subject to the Highly Flammable Liquids Regulations

which deal with how the solvents are stored and used and the amount that can

be kept in the workroom.

Steps to selecting a solvent

The steps below will guide you through the decision making process for selecting a solvent. You will need to refer to the MSDSs supplied with the solvents – the information you need is contained in the risk phrases (also known as R-phrases).

Step 1: Eliminate or reduce use

Whenever reasonably practicable, solvents should not be used. If you must use a spotting solvent, think about how its use can be minimised.

Look at how stains occur. Could a change in production methods help to prevent or minimise staining? Experience has shown that a quality improvement programme can markedly reduce the need for spot cleaning.

Could solvent-free agents, such as household type water-based cleaning products be used, even if just for some stains? (Some water-based agents also have health risks - these need to be assessed and balanced against the risks from spotting solvents. Steps 3 and 4 can help you to do this.)

Step 2: Consider the solvent’s flammability

• Avoid highly flammable solvents with risk phrase ‘R11, flash point 21 °C or less’; the vapour from these can readily create a flammable atmosphere. Solvents labelled ‘R10, flammable (flash point above 21 °C but less than 55 °C) pose a lower risk. The higher the flash point, the lower the flammability risks. Solvents with flash points above 55 °C should be used wherever possible. Although the risk of fire and explosion is much reduced they can still generate flammable atmospheres, for example, if dispersed as a fine mist at higher temperatures. The guidance in The storage of flammable liquids in containers HSG51 should therefore be followed as best practice.

Step 3: Health risks A solvent with a

MEL may be

replaced with one having an

OES provided adequate control of exposure

can be Hazard

Group Risk phrase

Least hazardou

s

A R36; R36/38; R38; other Rphrases not in groups B-E.

B R20; R20/21; R20/21/22; R20/22; R21; R21/22 or R22

C R23; R23/24; R23/24/25; R23/25; R24; R24/25; R25; R34; R35; R36/37; R36/37/38; R37; R37/38; R41; R43; R48/20; R48/20/21; R48/20/21/22; R48/20/22; R48/21;

R48/21/22; or R48/22.

D R26; R26/27; R26/27/28; R26/28; R27; R27/28; R28; Carcinogen Category 3 R40; R48/23; R48/23/24; R48/23/24/25; R48/23/25; R48/24; R48/24/25; R48/25; R60; R61;

R62; or R63

Most hazardou

s

E Mutagen Category 3 R40; R42; R42/43; R45; R46; or Carcinogen Category 2 R49

Check the MSDS to find the health-related risk phrase(s) for the product and then look for that exact risk phrase (or group of phrases) in the list below. Group A is the least hazardous and group E the most.

Choose a solvent from the lowest possible hazard category in the list above. Avoid the use of substances in group E because they may cause serious and irreversible ill-health effects such as asthma, dermatitis and cancer.

Step 4: Check whether the solvent has an Occupational Exposure Limit (OEL)

Look in HSE’s document EH40/2002 Occupational Exposure Limits 2002 to see if the solvent has an OEL.

There are two types of OEL – Maximum Exposure Limits (MELs) and

Occupational Exposure Standards (OESs).

Exposure to a substance with a MEL must be reduced as far below the MEL as is reasonably practicable. Exposure to a substance with an OES should be reduced at least to the OES. (A spotting solvent with an OES would only need additional controls to reduce exposure if the OES was exceeded.) A solvent with a MEL may need additional controls even if exposure is below the MEL. This is mainly because MELs are often allocated to cancer and asthma causing agents and other substances for which no safe level of exposure for human health can be identified.

A solvent with a MEL may be replaced with one having an OES provided adequate control of exposure can be achieved.

Controlling exposure

Exposure to spotting solvents can be adequately controlled using the following control measures.

Store and dispense safely

Store solvents in properly labelled, suitable containers. Keep them securely closed and in a dry place away from sources of heat and ignition. The storage area should have

adequate ventilation. The storage of flammable liquids in containers HSG51 provides further guidance on storing flammable liquids.

Use safety containers as described in HSE’s publication Safe use and handling of flammable liquids HSG140 to keep evaporation to a minimum and avoid spillage.

Keep

the lids on and when dispensing solvents ensure that there is adequate ventilation and that skin and eyes are protected with suitable gloves and goggles.

Avoid spraying

Spraying generates mist as well as vapour and this can lead to high exposures particularly in poorly ventilated areas. Mists can also give rise to a flammable atmosphere even when the temperature is below the flash point. Use a suitable pad or brush if possible, which will also reduce solvent use.

Provide adequate ventilation

Areas in which spotting solvents are used should be well ventilated with high and low ventilation points. Opening doors and windows will increase ventilation but may not lower the exposures of people working directly with solvents. Spraying of fabric should be done under effective local exhaust ventilation (LEV) if exposures are above the OEL. The ventilation system should be regularly checked; a guide to checks and maintenance requirements is given in Maintenance, examination and testing of local exhaust ventilation HSG54.

If solvent vapours are controlled below occupational exposure limits

there will not be a flammability risk in the workroom.

Minimise skin contact

The potential for absorption of solvent through skin is high in spotting. Prevent direct skin contact by using a brush instead of cloths. If hand contact is unavoidable workers should wear gloves that protect against the specific solvent. Gloves that are suitable for one type of solvent may not be suitable for another. Consult your supplier of gloves to discuss your exact requirements. Refer to Selecting protective gloves for work with chemicals: Guidance for employers and health and safety specialists INDG330.

Cloths used for rubbing fabrics should not be kept in pockets as this will lead to more skin contact. Cloths should be disposed of in closed containers.

Provide personal protective equipment (PPE)

Workers should wear overalls to prevent contamination of personal clothing. Where there is a risk of splashing, impervious aprons, gloves and goggles or visors should be worn. All PPE should be removed when taking breaks. The PPE provided should be kept clean, maintained and stored safely.

PPE should only be used as a last resort means of control or to complement other measures.

Ensure adequate personal hygiene

Workers should wash their hands before eating, drinking and smoking and before going to the toilet. Eating, drinking and smoking should be prohibited in areas where solvents are used. Smoking causes fire risks and, in addition, solvents passing through a cigarette can break down into even more harmful substances. Solvents should not be used to clean skin.

Provide training for workers

Workers should be given information and training to make them aware of the health effects from working with solvents and how to recognize the symptoms of exposure. This may be based on the information provided in this document. Make sure they know how to use the control measures that have been provided and when PPE should be changed.

4. FACTORS FOR SPOTTING:

Appearance - Spots that are lighter than the surrounding unaffected area are the

result of color loss. Spots that are darker than the surrounding unaffected areas are

the result of something added. Spots that end-up changing in different light and

diminish or disappear in direct intense light are the result of texture variations,

usually from over aggressive mechanical action.

Health & safety - Protect yourself with gloves, face mask, and respirator when using

dangerous chemicals. Dangerous chemicals such as Erusticator, and strippers, and

some solvents should be rinsed out completely after using.

Chemicals - Physically remove as must excess of the spot as possible before adding

chemicals. VDS is the first chemical to use on an unknown spot. Strong oxidizers,

strippers are the last chemicals to use.

Application - Do not distort the texture of the fiber. Tap and blot, do not brush and

rub. Work from the outside of the spot to the inside. Blot up excessive usage of

chemicals. Wait to evaluate the results.

IMPORTANT PRECAUTIONS

READ CARE LABELS ON FABRIC.

PRE-TEST STAIN REMOVAL AGENTS on an inconspicuous area of the article. Apply several drops of the agent (such as water, dry cleaning solvent, detergent solution, bleach or other recommended remover) and rub gently with a clean white towel. If color transfers to the cloth or a color change occurs, a professional cleaner should be consulted.

USE SOLVENTS IN A WELL VENTILATED ROOM WHERE THERE IS NO CHANCE OF ELECTRICAL SPARKS FROM REFRIGERATORS, FANS, ETC.

DO NOT USE chlorine bleach on wool, silk or spandex.

DO NOT OVERWET. Place absorbent pad under the stain. Use solvents sparingly. Blot frequently.

DO NOT RUB OR BRUSH. Feather liquids unevenly in the area surrounding the stain to avoid a ring.

BE PATIENT. Some stains respond slowly. Procedures may need to be repeated several times. All stains cannot be removed from every fabric due to differences in age of stain, structure of materials, fibers, dyes and finishes. Professional dry cleaners have skills and resources not available to the consumer.

Cold Plus POG Spotting Agent

Nature’s Choice POG Spotting Agent

STAIN REMOVAL

A stain is an unwanted coloration or deposition on the fabric. It is a result of physical reaction between the staining agent and the fibers of the fabric. Stains reduce the quality and value of the textile.

1. DIFFERENT TYPES OF STAINS (CLASSIFICATION) Stains are broadly classified into two types - organic stains and inorganic stains.

Picture 2: Absorbed Stain Stains that spread across larger area in the fabric are termed as bulk stains. This is a consequence of poor work practice and storage of material.

Bulk stains

There are four basic types of stains that require different techniques and agents.

1. Solvent Soluble Stains: These stains are typically oils, greases and waxes.

Use heavy-duty detergent with hot water. • Automotive oil • Hair oil • Bacon fat • Hand lotion • Butter/margarine • Lard • Car door grease • Mayonnaise • Collar/cuff greasy rings • Salad dressing • Cooking fats and oils • Suntan oil or lotion • Face creams

2. Water-Soluble Stains: These stains are typically sugars, salts, food, beverages and perspiration. These stains normally require pre- or post-spotting. The removal of these stains is augmented with the use of detergents and/or hydrated solvent.

Do not use soap (bar, flake). Use detergents. • Alcoholic beverages • Beer • Berries (cranberries, raspberries, strawberries) • Coffee • Cologne

• Felt-tip water color pen or washable ink • Fruit juice (apple, grape, and orange) • Soft drinks • Tea • Tomato juice

3. Insoluble Stains: These stains are particle stains such as carbon, dust and sand. While

cleaning, it is important to have a high flow rate of solvent and ability to suspend or deposit these particles away from the garments. Protein stains Soak in cold water. Launder. • Baby food • Milk • Baby formula • Mucous • Blood • Cheese sauce • Mud • Cream • Pudding • Egg • Urine • Feces • Vomit • Gelatin • White glue; school paste

• Ice cream

4. Soluble Stains in Chemical Agents: These stains are made up of products like nail

polish, lipstick, rust, paints, glues and albumin. It is necessary to use chemical agents to solubilise these stains. After working on the spotting board, it is important to flush the stain and chemical on the board prior to introducing the garment into the cleaning wheel. This insures the cleaning machine continues to operate with the most environmentally safe system.

Need detergent wash and bleach as safe, for fabric. • Cherry, blueberry • Color bleeding in wash (dye transfer) • Felt-tip pen (permanent ink-may not come out) • Grass • India ink • Kool-Aid

• Mercurochrome • Mustard • Tempera paint

How to Identify and Prevent Some Common Staining Problems:

Greasy-looking fabric softener splotches: Use of fabric softener sheets in the dryer can deposit softener unevenly, causing greasy-looking splotchy stains on silk-like polyester and blends of cotton/polyester broadcloth. This problem is especially noticeable on medium-colored fabrics such as khaki and medium blue. Avoid this problem and control static by using a fabric softener that is added to the final rinse.

Odd colored or rusty looking stains on collars, sheets and pillow cases, bedspreads, towels, or wash cloths: These stains are often caused by the benzoil peroxide used in cosmetic products (including acne medicine). This chemical acts as bleach, is very insoluble and hard to rinse off the body. It can permanently change colors of some dyes. The damage cannot be remedied, So it should be prevented. When products containing this chemical must be used, white collars and household textiles may be a good choice.

Stiff, coarse textures and/or dull colors in freshly laundered fabrics: Nonphosphate granular detergents can combine with hard water to leave behind a residue that can cause fabrics to become stiff and feel harsh. Avoid the problem by using a phosphate-based detergent, a heavy-duty liquid detergent or a no precipitating water conditioner with the nonphosphate granular detergent. Soaking stiffened clothing in a solution of white vinegar and water (1 cup vinegar per gallon of water) may help restore them; however you should first test clothing for colorfastness to vinegar on a hidden seam allowance. Another way to restore this clothing is to treat as for yellow, gray, or general discoloration.

White powdery streaks on dark clothes: Powdery streaks on dark clothes are probably caused by undissolved detergent being incompletely rinsed out. Some nonphosphate detergents can deposit mineral hardness residue that shows as streaks. Avoid this problem by changing detergents or by adding detergent to the wash water first, then adding clothes and starting washer. Usually a repeat rinse and spin cycle with clear water will remove these streaks.

White streaks on blue jeans: White streaks on blue jeans are probably not caused by undissolved detergent. Blue jeans are often dyed with indigo dye, which is a fugitive dye that bleeds in a water solution. As the washer spins, the edges where the fabric is folded get more abrasion and rougher treatment, causing the color to escape. Turning jeans wrong side out before laundering will reduce these white streaks and give more even fading. To avoid the natural fading that accompanies use of indigo, look for Polyester/cotton jeans that are labeled colorfast. They will retain their dark blue colour.

Yellowing, graying, or general discoloration: This condition occurs when insufficient detergent issued for proper cleaning, wash water temperature is too low (especially for oil stains), too much detergent is used and insufficiently rinsed out, synthetics are washed with a light-duty detergent in cold water, or color is transferred from other non colorfast items in the wash. To refurbish clothing with this discoloration, wash in a permanent press cycle with hot wash water, a cool-down rinse, and a cup of water conditioner instead of detergent. If discoloration persists, repeat this procedure or wash again using the correct amount of detergent, all- fabric bleach, or diluted liquid chlorine bleach if safe for fabric. The treatment of last resort for white items is treatment with a commercial color remover (Rit or Tintex). This reducing bleach must be used very carefully, as it will easily fade colors in any fabric it touches. If the yellow color is on silk, wool, or spandex it may be a result of fiber alteration due to improper use of chlorine bleach and is not removable.

2. STAIN REMOVAL TECHNIQUES There are two basic approaches to removing spots and stains. You can use a stain-removal agent that interacts with the stain chemically, or you can physically loosen or remove the stain from the surface. Many stubborn stains require both chemical and physical treatment. The eight physical stain-removal techniques are: brushing, flushing, freezing, presoaking, pretreating, scraping, sponging, and tamping. Which technique to use in treating a particular spot or stain depends upon both the nature of the stain and the type of surface stained. For example, a stain may be wet or dry, semisolid or hardened. On a very delicate surface, you may not be able to use such techniques as scraping and tamping. A stain may be flushed more easily from a loosely woven fabric than from one that is tightly woven; but a tightly woven fabric can withstand a treatment such as tamping more successfully. Follow these directions carefully to assure successful stain removal without harm to the stained article. Note that whenever you use absorbent pads (when you flush or sponge a stain) you should check the pad frequently and change it as soon as any of the stain is deposited. This will prevent reapplication of the stain to the treated article. Remember, too, that to avoid fabric damage you should never apply heavy pressure when using techniques such as brushing, tamping, or scraping.

Brushing Brushing is used to remove dried stains and spots. Some spots, such as those formed of dried mud, may be completely removed by brushing. In treating other types of dry stains (for example, face powder), brushing is just the first step in treating the stain. In treating some stains, brushing may be one of the last steps, as when you want to remove an absorbent or a dried stain-removing paste from a surface.

Use a small, stiff-bristled brush for this technique. A toothbrush works well on small stains. When working on a fabric, stretch the piece on a firm, clean working surface. Hold a clean sheet of paper next to the stain (on walls, hold the paper beneath the stain) so that you can brush the staining material onto the paper. Use a gentle motion to brush the stain up off the surface and onto the paper. It may help to blow softly on the spot as you brush.

Flushing Flushing is used to remove loosened staining materials and any residue from the stain-removal agent. This is an important step in the process, for if any chemicals are left in the material, they may cause additional staining or they may damage the treated article. When flushing a stain, especially one on a nonwashable fabric, you need to control the flow of water carefully. To apply a measured amount of flushing liquid, use a device such as an eyedropper or plant mister, or a plastic trigger spray bottle that can be adjusted to spray a fine stream. Before you begin the treatment, place a clean absorbent pad beneath the spot, then slowly and carefully apply the recommended stain remover to the stain. If you decide to use a mister, place the tip against the stained area and depress the plunger or pump the trigger slowly. In this way, you can force out a thin stream of fluid without wetting a large area. You must work slowly; do not apply the liquid faster than the pad beneath can absorb it and do not spread the stain. Replace the absorbent pad frequently so that the deposited staining material does not restain the fabric. Stains on area rugs may be flushed following the directions above. In fact, any rug under which you can place an absorbent pad can be treated by flushing. If, however, your rug is too large to lift or if the stain is on tacked-down rugs or carpeting, you may have to sponge the stain-removal agent onto the spot instead. Then sponge with clear water to remove chemical residues. Remember, the pad or cloth used for sponging must be changed frequently. If you are treating a washable fabric and directions call for flushing with water, you may rinse the stained article. To rinse out a stain, dip the article up and down repeatedly in a container of warm water. Change the rinse water frequently.

Pretreating Pretreating is used to ease the removal of small stains, especially those that are oily or greasy. Stubborn soil, such as the ground-in dirt on collars, cuffs, and socks, is easier to remove after it's been pretreated. When you are pretreating a stain, you apply the stain-removing agent directly to the stained area. To pretreat a stain, you may use a liquid detergent, a soil-and-stain-removing pretreat spray, bar soap, or a pretreating paste made of powdered detergent (do not use one that contains bleach) and water. Liquid detergent and pretreating sprays should be applied directly onto the dry stain. If you are using bar soap or have prepared a paste of powdered or granular detergent and water, dampen

the fabric slightly before applying the pretreating agent. After its application, rub the pretreater into the stain gently, then wash the item as you normally do. To use pretreating sprays successfully, you should keep a few points in mind. Pretest the spray by applying it to an inconspicuous part of the garment before using it on the stain. Most of these sprays are perfectly safe on all washable fabrics, but some contain an oxygen-type bleach ingredient that could harm some dyes. Apply the product according to package directions, wait 5 minutes, and then rinse the pretest area carefully. If no color change is apparent, you can safely treat the stain. After using one of these sprays, it is essential that you wash the treated article thoroughly to remove both the rest of the stain and any residue from the pretreat spray. Allowing the residue to set may cause a new stain.

Presoaking Presoaking is a useful and effective treatment for washable articles that are grayed, yellowed, or heavily stained. You can presoak laundry in the washer or in a sink or tub. Use warm water. Sort the soiled items before presoaking; noncolorfast items should be soaked separately or with similar colors and for only a short time. How long you should presoak stained articles depends upon the stain and the fiber. For most stains, 30 minutes should be adequate. Noncolorfast items should be soaked only briefly. Heavily stained items or stains that have set for a long time may require overnight soaking. You may want to add bleach, laundry detergent, or an enzyme presoak product to the soaking water. However, avoid using enzyme products on silk or wool, and do not use chlorine bleach and an enzyme product at the same time. Whenever you add anything to the water used for presoaking, make sure that the item is then thoroughly rinsed before you launder it. There should not be any residue from the presoak product left in the item when it is washed.

Scraping Scraping can be used to lift off excess semisold staining material and to loosen caked-on stains. Removal of as much of such material as possible makes it easier for the stain-removing agent to reach the surface, and although scraping may not remove a stain completely, it is often a necessary step before applying a stain remover. Do not use an absorbent pad beneath an item you are going to scrape. For your scraping tool use a dull knife, spoon, or spatula. Don't press hard, but move the edge of your scraping tool back and forth across the stain in short strokes. Be gentle to avoid damaging the stained surface. To remove some stains you must add liquid as you scrape, working the liquid into the stain as you remove excess material.

Freezing

Some staining substances, such as candle wax and gum, can be hardened by the application of cold so that they are easier to remove. Work fast when treating a spill that is still semisolid. You may be able to limit the area stained by quickly hardening the staining material. To freeze a stain, hold one or more ice cubes against it. If the stained item is not washable, place the ice in a plastic bag. If the stained item is portable and the stain is large, you may put the article into a plastic bag and place it in the freezer. Take the item out when the staining material solidifies. After the stain has solidified, it can usually be gently lifted or scraped from the surface. Any residue may require further stain-removal treatment.

Sponging Sponging is one of the most frequently used methods of applying many stain-removing agents, including water. Sponging is another technique in which clean absorbent pads are used. The stained item should be laid on a pad, stainside down, if possible. You may have to sponge stains on carpets without any absorbent pad beneath, in which case you must be especially careful to wet the carpet as little as possible. Use another clean pad or a clean sponge to apply the stain-removing agent. Dampen this pad with the agent specified in the stain-removal directions and sponge the stain gently. Use light strokes and work outward from the center of the stain. Try to keep your sponging strokes as close to the stain as possible. Use only enough stain remover to dampen the sponge and move in an irregular pattern. By following these directions, you are less likely to cause rings to form. Check the pad beneath the stain at frequent intervals and examine the sponging pad as well. Change the pad as soon as any stain is deposited on it. In this way, the staining agent will not be reapplied to the fabric. Certain fabrics, including acetate, triacetate, and rayon, are more likely than others to develop rings when treated with this technique. So, when sponging stains on these fabrics, you must be even more careful. Barely wet the sponge with stain remover and touch the fabric lightly so that the stain remover is absorbed as slowly as possible. Limit your strokes to the immediate stained area to keep the moistened area as small as possible and avoid spreading the stain. After the stain is removed, dry the fabric as quickly as possible. Blot the treated area gently between clean, dry absorbent pads; then allow it to dry. Unless you have used only water as the stain-removal agent, do not use heat in drying.

Tamping Tamping is a stain-removal technique that is effective on durable, tightly woven fabrics, but it may damage more delicate materials. When stain-removal directions call for tamping, the only tool you need is a small brush (a soft-bristled toothbrush is usually fine). Place the stained article on the work surface; there's no need for an absorbent pad. Hold the brush 2 or 3 inches above the stain and bring it down directly on the stain repeatedly in light strokes. You are using

too much pressure if the bristles bend. Try to hit the stained area squarely with the tips of the bristles. You are more likely to damage the fabric if you hit it with the side of the brush. To avoid harming the fabric, stop tamping as soon as the spot is removed. Tightly woven fabrics of high-twist yarn are able to withstand more tamping than loosely woven fabrics of slight-or moderate-twist yarn. The chemical stain-removal techniques are the ones where we use a stain-removal agent that interacts with the stain chemically. There are many chemicals and chemical methods used. Each of these various methods has a different purpose but the same desired outcome. Use one or a combination of these as directions specify.

Procedures - group 1 Hydrophobic (fats, oils, waxes) Follow these procedures for non-washable fabrics, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable fabrics, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

Sponge with drycleaning solvent

Lubricate with mineral oil, lard or dry spotter.

With absorbent pad apply dry spotter or paint, oil and grease remover. Keep stain moist with spotter and blot occasionally with absorbent material. If fabric is strong enough tamp with brush or spoon. Flush with drycleaning solvent. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until no more stain is removed. Allow to dry.

With medicine dropper apply several drops of detergent solution and a few drops of ammonia. Work into stain. Continue as long as stain is being removed. Flush with water.

Bleach to remove final traces of stain. Apply bleach solution with medicine dropper. Do not use chlorine solution on wool, silk, or spandex. Do not allow bleach to remain more than two minutes. Flush with water after each bleach application. Apply vinegar solution to remove excess chlorine, then flush with water.

Procedures - group 2 Food containing oils and fats Follow these procedures for non-washable fabrics, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable fabrics, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

Spponge with drycleaning solvent. Keep absorbent pad underneath.

Lubricate with pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep stain moist, changing pad as it picks up stain, or lubricate with a small amount of mineral oil or lard. For stronger fabrics, tamp frequently with brush or spoon.

Flush with drycleaning solvent. Allow to dry.

With medicine dropper, apply mild detergent solution to which has been added a few drops of amonia. For stronger fabrics, tamp with brush or spoon. Flush with water.

Bleach to remove final traces of stain. Apply bleach solution with medicine dropper. Do not use chlorine bleach on wool, silk or spandex. Do not allow bleach to remain more than two minutes. Flush with water after each bleach application. Apply vinegar solution to remove excess chlorine, and then flush with water. For chocolate stains, use hydrogen peroxide (3%) and add a drop or two of ammonia. Flush with water.

Procedures - group 3 Protein and starch Follow these procedures for non-washable articles, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable articles, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

Blot up as much stain as possible. Place pad underneath.

Keep another absorbent pad moist with enzyme product over stain for 30 minutes. For stronger fabrics, tamp with spoon or brush. Flush with water.

Flush with ammonia solution. Flush with water. Blot.

Flush with vinegar solution. Flush with water. Blot

For blood stains not completely removed. Bleach with hydrogen peroxide (3%) applied with medicine dropper. Add a drop of ammonia. Flush with water.

Procedures - group 4 Plastics and resins Follow these procedures for non-washable articles, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable articles, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

Place pad underneath. Sponge with drycleaning solvent.

Lubricate with pad dipped in dry spotter, lard or mineral oil. On stronger fabrics. Tamp with spoon or brush.

Flush with drycleaning solvent. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until no more stain is removed.

Apply pad moistened in amyl acetate. Keep moist 15 minutes. Blot occasionally. For stronger fabrics, tamp with spoon or brush. Flush with drycleaning solvent.

Bleach to remove final traces of stain. Apply bleach solution with medicine dropper. Do not use chlorine solution on wool, silk or spandex. Do not allow bleach to remain more than two minutes. Flush with water after each bleach application. Apply vinegar solution to remove excess chlorine, then flush with water.

Procedures - group 5 Tannin and glucose Follow these procedures for non-washable fabrics, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable fabrics, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

Sponge with water.

With absorbent pad apply mild detergent solution and a few drops of vinegar. Cover with pad moist with this solution. For stronger fabrics, tamp occasionally with brush or spoon. Flush with water.

With absorbent pad apply alcohol to stain. Cover with pad soaked with alcohol. Change pad as it picks up stain.

With absorbent pad moisten with solution of enzyme product. Cover with pad soaked in enzyme solution. Let stand 30 minutes. Keep stain warm and moistened with solution. Flush with water.

Bleach to remove final traces of stain. Apply bleach solution with medicine dropper. Do not use chlorine solution on wool, silk or spandex. Do not allow bleach to remain more than two minutes. Flush with water after each bleach application. Apply vinegar solution to remove excess chlorine, and then flush with water.

Procedures - group 6 Water soluble body waste, deodorants, red dyes Follow these procedures for non-washable fabrics, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable articles, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

Sponge with water.

With absorbent pad apply mild detergent solution and a few drops of ammonia. Press stain every 5 minutes with clean pad moistened with solution! Flush with water.

With absorbent pad apply detergent solution with a few drops of vinegar. Press stain every 5 minutes with clean pad moistened with solution. Flush with water.

With absorbent pad apply alcohol. Let stand as long as stain is being removed. For stronger fabrics, tamp occasionally with spoon or brush. Flush with water.

Bleach to remove final traces of stain. Apply bleach solution with medicine dropper. Do not use chlorine solution on wool, silk, or spandex. Do not allow bleach to remain more than two minutes. Flush with water after each bleach application. Apply vinegar solution to remove excess chlorine, then flush with water.

Procedures - group 7 Inks, dyes, pigments Follow these procedures for non-washable fabrics, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable fabrics, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

Sponge with water.

With absorbent pad, apply solution of mild detergent and a few drops of vinegar. Let stand 30 minutes or more. Blot every 5 minutes with clean pad moistened with detergent and vinegar. Flush with water.

With absorbent pad, apply alcohol to stain. Cover with pad. Change pad as it picks up stain, pressing hard each time. Flush with alcohol. Allow to dry.

Sponge with water.

With absorbent pad, apply solution of mild detergent and a few drops of ammonia. Let stand 30 minutes. Blot every 5 minutes with clean pad moistened with detergent and ammonia. Flush with water. Dry

Bleach to remove final traces of stain. Apply bleach solution with medicine dropper. Do not use chlorine bleach on wool, silk or spandex. Do not allow bleach to remain more than two minutes. Flush with water after each bleach application. Apply vinegar solution to remove excess chlorine, and then flush with water.

Procedures - group 8 Asphalt, oxidizing oils and gums Follow these procedures for non-washable fabrics, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable fabrics, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

Place clean absorbent material under the stain. With absorbent pad apply drycleaning solvent. Cover the stain with a pad moistened with solvent. Change pad as it picks up stain.

With absorbent pad apply dry spotter. For stronger fabrics, remove pad ever 5 minutes and tamp stain with brush or spoon. Continue alternating soaking and tamping until stain is removed. An alternate method is to lubricate with lard or mineral oil. Tamp with brush or spoon. Flush with drycleaning solvent. Continue alternating lubrication and flushing. Allow to dry.

Procedures - group 9 Medicinal (iodine, silver salts) Follow these procedures for non-washable fabrics, testing all removers first on an inconspicuous area of the article. For washable fabrics, the same methods may be used for localized stain removal before laundering.

For argyrol stain only, mix 1 tablespoon enzyme product with 1 quart warm water. Using absorbent pad wet stain with this solution. Allow to soak for 30 minutes, changing pad frequently. Flush with water and proceed to step 2. For other stains, sponge with water and proceed to step 2.

For all stains except iodine, add tincture of iodine with medicine dropper, just enough to cover stain.

With medicine dropper, wet stain with sodium thiosulfate solution (1 teaspoon to 1/2 cup water). Add a few drops of ammonia. Flush with water.

A white shirt with blue screen printing ink

A Beige pant with mascara

STAINS NEEDING UNIQUE TREATMENT METHODS: Chewing gum: Apply ice to harden gum. Crack or scrape off excess. Spray with pretreatment aerosol product. Rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Rinse with hot water. Repeat if necessary. Launder.

Deodorants: Apply liquid detergent, wash in warm water. Build-up of aluminum or zinc salts may be impossible to remove . Fingernail polish: Do not use nail polish remover (or acetone) on acetate, triacetate, or modacrylic fabrics as they will dissolve. Take these fabrics to professional drycleaners and identify the stain. For other fabrics, use nail polish remover, acetone and spot treatment method. Hog confinement odor: Wash clothes adding 1/4 to 1/2 cup household ammonia to wash load with heavy-duty detergent. Do not mix ammonia and bleach in same wash load. Toxic fumes are produced. Ammonia can be used on colored fabrics, but occasionally its use will change the garment's color. Iodine: Iodine is quickly removed with sodium thiosulfate, which is sold in photo supply stores as "acid fixer." If the photo supply fixer solution contains other chemicals in addition to sodium thiosulfate, it should not be used. Iodine may also be removed by some commercial stain removers. Lead pencil: Use art gum eraser to lift off excess; avoid hard rubbing. For delicate fabrics use spot treatment methods. For most durable, washable fabrics, spray with pretreatment aerosol product. Rub in heavy-duty liquid detergent. Rinse in warm water. Launder. Mildew: Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew eats cellulosic fibers, causing permanent damage and weakening of fibers and fabrics. To remove mildew: Shake or brush item outdoors. Pretreat darkest stains with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder in hot water with a heavy-duty detergent. Bleach as safe for fabric. Odor: Most odors are removed by laundering. For persistent odor problems, place calcium carbonate crystals, activated charcoal, or soda in an open container and store with clothes in closet or sprinkle soda directly on fabric and let stand; then shake or vacuum. Paint-latex: Treat while wet. Soak in cold water; wash in cool water with heavy-duty detergent. After paint has dried 6 to 8 hours, removal is very difficult. Treat as combination stain. Wash in hot water, Rinse. Repeat treatment. Paint-oil-based: Treat while wet. Use thinner recommended for paint. Use spot treatment technique and thinner on spots until paint is softened and can be flushed away in heavy-duty detergent wash. Usually turpentine or alcohol will work as solvents. Perspiration: Apply liquid detergent or soak in warm water with presoak product 15 to 30 minutes. Launder.

Pesticide: If full-strength liquid concentrate spills on clothes, handle only with rubber gloves. Discard clothing immediately. Laundering does not remove concentrate to a safe level for reuse of clothing. Launder other pesticide- contaminated clothing separate from general family laundry. If visible staining from diluted spray of pesticide residues remains after laundering, rewash using hot water, heavy-duty detergent, and a full water level. Then line dry. Rust: Rust stains cannot be removed in normal laundering. Use of chlorine bleach makes them permanent. Rust removers such as RoVer or Whink are effective and safe for most fabrics, but rust removers that contain hydrofluoric acid are extremely toxic, can burn the skin, and can damage the finish on appliances. A solution oxalic acid crystals in water will also remove rust stains,-but it is often difficult to obtain the crystals. Lemon juice and salt are more readily available and are helpful sometimes, Sprinkle the salt on the stain, squeeze lemon juice on it and spread the garment in the sun to dry. A word of caution: Lemon juice can bleach some colors and many washable garments are not manufactured to be colorfast to sunlight. Scorch: Excess heat on cellulosic (cotton, linen, ramie, rayon), wool, or synthetic fibers can cause permanent damage. If fabric is thick and fuzzy, brush to remove charring. Rub liquid detergent into scorched area. Launder. If stain remains, bleach using, all-fabric bleach. Fabric will be permanently weakened in scorched area. Synthetic blends that are melted or glazed cannot be fully restored. Smoke, soot: Shake off excess soot outdoors. Launder in washing machine using heavy duty phosphate-based detergent or heavy-duty liquid as recommended by manufacturer, one cup of water conditioner, and 1/2 cup of all-fabric bleach. Use water temperature appropriate for fabric. Air dry. Inspect for smoke odor. Repeat as necessary. Three or four washes may be needed for cottons and cotton blends. Urine: Rinse in cold water and launder. For stains on mattresses: (1) sponge with cloth using detergent solution, (2) rinse with cloth using vinegar solution, (3) let air dry, and (4) If odor remains, sprinkle with soda or calcium carbonate; wait 1 day, then vacuum. Water Spots: Launder. For dry cleanable draperies, consult a professional cleaner. Water marks on drapes are water soluble and not removable by drycleaning solvents. Combination Stains:

Two step treatment: (1) Remove oily/waxy portion, (2) Remove dye portion using bleach as safe for fabric. Combination stains contain a variety of ingredients, but these stains usually have an oily/waxy component and a dye or pigment component. Use the procedures recommended for removing oil stains first. Step 1 procedure depends on whether stain is in Group A or B as follows:

1. Group A. Spray or sponges with dry cleaning solvent (perchloroethylene, trichloroethylene) then rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent before washing.

a. Ball-point ink b. Candle wax c. Carbon paper d. Carbon typewriter ribbon e. Crayon f. Eye make-up (mascara, pencil, liner, shadow) g. Floor wax h. Furniture polish i. Lipstick j. Livestock paint k. Pine resin l. Shoe polish m. Tar

2. Group B. Rub heavy-duty liquid detergent into stain before washing.

• Barbecue sauce • Calomine lotion • Catsup or tomato sauce • Cocoa or chocolate • Face make-up (powder, rouge, foundation) • Gravy • Hair spray After doing the procedures above, do step 2-removing dye stains. Start with an all fabric bleach because it is less damaging to colors and fabrics. Use liquid chlorine bleaches for tough dye stains, if fabrics are colorfast to bleach.

What to do if we don't know what the stain is? If we don't know what the stain is, its odor, location, and color may give you a clue. Old oil stains may smell rancid, but appear dry. Food stains are often on the front of garments; perspiration stains around collars and underarms; black grease is often on pants or skirts at car-door latch levels. Stain color may be a misleading clue. For example, rust-colored stains may be coffee, tea, old lemonade stains (carmelized sugar), cosmetics containing benzoil peroxide (which can bleach many colors to look rusty), felt marker, crayon, aged baby formula, or a number of other things. If a heavy waxy or gummy residue is present, you may be dealing with a stain that will respond best to spot treatment with a drycleaning fluid. Since the appropriate removal method varies with the stain, start by using the least destructive stain removal methods first. If the whole garment can be submerged, start by soaking the garment in cold water (as for protein stains). If not, use warm water and spot treatment technique. Next, use liquid detergent and lukewarm or hot water, rinse and let air dry (as for oil stains). If you suspect the stain is iron rust, treat with rust remover before bleach. If stain

persists, use a pretreatment spray or solvent (as for combination stain) and all-fabric bleach. If the all-fabric bleach is ineffective on the stain and the garment is colorfast or white, finally try a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach. Fabrics Labeled "Dry-clean Only" The procedures described here do not apply to garments labeled dry-clean only. Clothing labeled "dry-clean" or "professionally dry-clean" should be taken to the cleaners promptly. The fiber content of the clothing and the type of stain should be identified for the cleaner. Even professional cleaners cannot remove all stains. The cleaner will usually warn you if the stain cannot be removed, but sometimes this is difficult to predict. Dye stains on colored fabrics are an example of stains that may not be completely removed.

3. CHEMICALS USED FOR STAIN REMOVAL:

Supplies needed for stain removal can usually be found in grocery, drug, general merchandise, or paint stores. Many commercially available products have proprietary formulas that are protected by patent rights and not available to the public. Ingredients listed on labels for safety purposes can help you decide if the product will be useful for the stain removal task- you have to do. There is no miracle product that will remove all stains. Detergents • Heavy-duty liquid detergents (Era, Fab, Grease Relief, Tide, Wisk) • Light-duty liquid detergents (Delicare, Ivory, Lux,Woolite) • Powdered detergents (Amway, Cheer, Dash, Oxydol, Sears, Tide) Acids and Alkalis

Ammonia solultion

Vinegar solution Bleaches • Hydrogen peroxide • Powdered all-fabricc bleaches (sodium perborate)(Biz, Borateem, Clorox 2; Purex, Snowy) • Liquid all-fabric bleaches (Snowy, Vivid) • Liquid chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite)(Clorox, Hi-lex,Purex) • Liquid chlorine bleaches have a limited shelf-life. If your bleach is more than six months old and has no effect on stains, it may need to be replaced with fresh bleach. • To test for colorfastness to liquid chlorine bleaches, mix I tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand two minutes, then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the product. Powdered bleach packages have directions for doing colorfastness tests. Pretreatment Products • Aerosol sprays-petroleum-based solvent (Clorox, Shout, Spray'n Wash) • Pump-type sprays-- detergent based (Clorox, Shout, Spray'n Wash)

Absorbent Materials • Clean white cloths • Paper towels (white) • Sponges (white or neutral colored) • Caution: Colored sponges or paper towels can bleed dyes onto fabrics, making dye stains that may be difficult to remove. Odor-reducing Agents • Activated charcoal • Calcium carbonate • Soda

Miscellaneous Chemicals

Iodine

Sodium thiosulfate

Lubricants for Greasy Stains

Mineral oil

Dry spotter

* Limited testing on these products has shown them to be less effective than advertised. **These must be used at body temperature for enzyme action to occur, Chlorine bleach and hot water inactivate enzymes. ***Do not use these products with chlorine or oxygen type bleaches.

4. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTS USED IN INDUSTRY FOR STAIN REMOVAL: The following tools are necessary for proper removal of stains. 1. White Towels: a. Used as an absorbent for either solvent or water. b. Used to absorb stains as they are flushed from a fabric. c. Used to test or indicate dye bleeding from fabric. d. Used to clean spotting board surface. 2. Spotting Brushes: a. Two colors of brushes are used: i. Black with agents on the dry side. ii. White with agents on the wet side. b. At least two brushes per color should be available with different bristle hardness.

c. A padded spotting brush is useful. d. Brushes are used for tamping. The mechanical action aids in the removal of stains. 3. Spatula (Bone): a. Used to break up stains; allows agents to penetrate. b. Should not be used in a pointed fashion. c. Used only with minimal mechanical action. 4. Cheesecloth: a. Used for feathering. b. Used for testing for dye or colourfastness. 5. Scissors: Used to cut small samples of fabric for testing purposes. 6. Eye Dropper: Used to apply small amounts of agents. 7. Open Water Container (Bowl): a. Used for water source and spotting. b. Used for flushing wet side agents. 8. Spotting Board: a. The main piece of equipment that allows you to remove stains. Example of a pre-spotting cabin

Example of a spotting cabin

THE SPOTTING BOARD AND ORGANIZING CHEMICALS The spotting board has a flat working surface where most tamping and mechanical action occurs. The nose or front of the board has a Teflon cover and has the ability to vacuum when activated by a foot pedal. A flat surfaced sleeve board allows for work on cuffs and small areas of garments. It, too, has a nose that has a vacuum when activated. The board is equipped with three pedals that activate steam. Additionally, the board has a spotting gun that creates a vacuum and/or emits air. The preferred gun has a venture ability, coupled to a supply vessel allowing for the agent to be atomized with the air or steam flow. At the rear of the spotting board is a storage area for spotting agents, brushes and bowls.

The Zim Pulsar 201 Spray gun

It is designed specifically for the high volume production user. Deluxe features include variable spray nozzle with jewel tip for finer, more controlled spray.

Model 201 Model 2001 Model K-51

Air Dryer Syphon Tube Pulsar Reel

Pulsar Support Conevac Vacutex