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1 'The Great War for Civilisation: the Conquest of the Middle East' Only one Western journalist has gained access to the inner sanctum of al-Qa'ida. In this extraordinary account from his new book - serialised all next week in 'The Independent' - Robert Fisk recalls meeting the world's most wanted man.... http://www.independentbooksdirect.co.uk http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/books/features/article314587.ece For succeeding extracts, please click here 01 October 2005 Serial One of extracts from Robert Fisk's book: 'The Great War for Civilisation: the Conquest of the Middle East' Knew it would be like this. On 19 March 1997, outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses, an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town. The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river. A vast mountain chain towered above us. The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk. I knew what his smile was supposed to say. Trust me. But I didn't. I smiled back the rictus of false friendship. Even inside the car, I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs. Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock. A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen, and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard, unforgiving, dun-coloured uniformity. The track must have looked like this, I thought, when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago. The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road, and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands. The stones of Gandamak, they claim, were made black by the blood of the English dead. The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms. No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War. But Afghans don't forget. "Farangiano," the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me. "Foreigners." It had grown dark and we were climbing, overtaking trucks and rows of camels, the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom. Two hours later, we stopped on a stony hillside and, after a few minutes, a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain. An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car. I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village. "I am sorry Mr Robert, but I must give you the first search," he said, prowling through my camera bag and newspapers. And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s, a terrifying, slithering, two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet, the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain. "When you believe in jihad, it is easy," he said, fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres, tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below. From time to time, lights winked at us from far away in the darkness. "Our brothers are letting us know they see us," he said. After an hour, two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf, eyes peering at us through spectacles, holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks. "Stop! Stop!" As the brakes were jammed on, I almost hit my head on the windscreen. "Sorry, sorry," the bespectacled man said, putting down his rocket-launcher. He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket, the red light flicking over my body in another search. The road grew worse as we continued, the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs, the headlights playing across the chasms on either side. "Toyota is good
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The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East Only one Western journalist has gained access to the inner sanctum of al-Qaida In this extraordinary account from his new book - serialised all next week in The Independent - Robert Fisk recalls meeting the worlds most wanted man

httpwwwindependentbooksdirectcoukhttpenjoymentindependentcoukbooksfeaturesarticle314587ece For succeeding extracts please click here 01 October 2005 Serial One of extracts from Robert Fisks book The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good

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for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the

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Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded

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five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio

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hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct

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reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims

Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance

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against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the

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vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous

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moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

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said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

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comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the

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Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded

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five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio

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hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct

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reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims

Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance

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against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the

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vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous

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moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

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said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

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comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

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Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded

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five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio

5

hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct

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reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims

Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance

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against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the

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vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous

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moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

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said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

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comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio

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hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct

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reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims

Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance

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against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the

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vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous

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moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

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said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

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comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

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hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct

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reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims

Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance

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against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the

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vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous

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moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

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said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

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comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims

Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance

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against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the

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vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous

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moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

10

said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

11

comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

20

to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the

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vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous

9

moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

10

said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

11

comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

20

to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous

9

moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

10

said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

11

comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

12

There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

13

But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he

10

said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

11

comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

14

elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered

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comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk

Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

Knew it would be like this On 19 March 1997 outside the Spinghar Hotel in Jalalabad with its manicured lawns and pink roses an Afghan holding a Kalashnikov rifle invited me to travel in a car out of town The highway to Kabul that evening was no longer a road but a mass of rocks and crevasses above the roaring waters of a great river A vast mountain chain towered above us The Afghan smiled at me occasionally but did not talk I knew what his smile was supposed to say Trust me But I didnt I smiled back the rictus of false friendship Even inside the car I could hear the river as it sloshed through gulleys and across wide shoals of grey stones and poured over the edge of cliffs Trust Me steered the car carefully around the boulders and I admired the way his bare left foot eased the clutch up and down as a man might gently urge a horse to clamber over a rock

A benevolent white dust covered the windscreen and when the wipers cleared it the desolation took on a hard unforgiving dun-coloured uniformity The track must have looked like this I thought when Major General William Elphinstone led his British army to disaster more than 150 years ago The Afghans had annihilated one of the greatest armies of the British Empire on this very stretch of road and high above me were villages where old men still remembered the stories of great-grandfathers who had seen the English die in their thousands The stones of Gandamak they claim were made black by the blood of the English dead The year 1842 marked one of the greatest defeats of British arms No wonder we preferred to forget the First Afghan War But Afghans dont forget Farangiano the driver shouted and pointed down into the gorge and grinned at me Foreigners

It had grown dark and we were climbing overtaking trucks and rows of camels the beasts turning their heads towards our lights in the gloom Two hours later we stopped on a stony hillside and after a few minutes a pick-up truck came bouncing down the rough shale of the mountain

An Arab in Afghan clothes came towards the car I recognised him at once from our last meeting in a ruined village I am sorry Mr Robert but I must give you the first search he said prowling through my camera bag and newspapers And so we set off up the track that Osama bin Laden built during his jihad against the Russian army in the early 1980s a terrifying slithering two-hour odyssey along fearful ravines in rain and sleet the windscreen misting as we climbed the cold mountain When you believe in jihad it is easy he said fighting with the steering wheel as stones scuttered from the tyres tumbling down the precipice into the clouds below From time to time lights winked at us from far away in the darkness Our brothers are letting us know they see us he said

After an hour two armed Arabs - one with his face covered in a kuffiah scarf eyes peering at us through spectacles holding an anti-tank rocket-launcher over his right shoulder - came screaming from behind two rocks

Stop Stop As the brakes were jammed on I almost hit my head on the windscreen Sorry sorry the bespectacled man said putting down his rocket-launcher He pulled a metal detector from the pocket of his combat jacket the red light flicking over my body in another search The road grew worse as we continued the 4x4 skidding backwards towards sheer cliffs the headlights playing across the chasms on either side Toyota is good for jihad my driver said I could only agree noting that this was one advertising slogan the Toyota company would probably forgo

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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There was moonlight now and I could see clouds both below us in the ravines and above us curling round mountaintops our headlights shining on frozen waterfalls and ice-covered pools Osama bin Laden knew how to build his wartime roads many an ammunition truck and tank had ground its way up here during the titanic struggle against the Russian army Now the man who led those guerrillas - the first Arab fighter in the battle against Moscow - was back again in the mountains he knew There were more Arab checkpoints more shrieked orders to halt Then Bin Laden himself appeared in combat uniform f and wearing shades He carefully patted my shoulders body legs and looked into my face Salaam aleikum I said Peace be upon you Every Arab I had ever met replied Aleikum salaam to this greeting But not this one There was something cold about this man Osama bin Laden had invited me to meet him in Afghanistan but this was a warrior without the minimum courtesy He was a machine checking out another machine

IT HAD not always been this way Indeed the first time I met Osama bin Laden the way could not have been easier Back in December 1993 I had been covering an Islamic summit in the Sudanese capital of Khartoum when a Saudi journalist friend of mine Jamal Kashoggi walked up to me in the lobby of my hotel Kashoggi led me by the shoulder outside There is someone I think you should meet he said Kashoggi is a sincere believer and I guessed at once to whom he was referring Kashoggi had visited Bin Laden in Afghanistan during his war against the Russian army He has never met a Western reporter before he announced This will be interesting Kashoggi was indulging in a little applied psychology He wanted to know how Bin Laden would respond to an infidel So did I

Bin Ladens story was as instructive as it was epic When the Soviet army invaded Afghanistan in 1979 the Saudi royal family - encouraged by the CIA - sought to provide the Afghans with an Arab legion preferably led by a Saudi prince who would lead a guerrilla force against the Russians Not only would he disprove the popularly held and all too accurate belief that the Saudi leadership was effete and corrupt he could re-establish the honourable tradition of the Gulf Arab warrior heedless of his own life in defending the umma the community of Islam True to form the Saudi princes declined this noble mission Bin Laden infuriated at both their cowardice and the humiliation of the Afghan Muslims at the hands of the Soviets took their place and with money and machinery from his construction company set off on his personal jihad

A billionaire businessman and himself a Saudi albeit of humbler Yemeni descent in the coming years he would be idolised by both Saudis and millions of other Arabs the stuff of Arab schoolboy legend from the Gulf to the Mediterranean Not since the British glorified Lawrence of Arabia had an adventurer been portrayed in so heroic so influential a role Egyptians Saudis Yemenis Kuwaitis Algerians Syrians and Palestinians made their way to the Pakistani border city of Peshawar to fight alongside him But when the Afghan mujahedin guerrillas and Bin Ladens Arab legion had driven the Soviets from Afghanistan the Afghans turned upon each other with wolflike and tribal venom Sickened by this perversion of Islam - original dissension within the umma led to the division of Sunni and Shia Muslims - Bin Laden returned to Saudi Arabia

But his journey of spiritual bitterness was not over When Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait in 1990 Bin Laden once more offered his services to the Saudi royal family They did not need to invite the United States to protect the place of the two holiest shrines of Islam he argued Mecca and Medina the cities in which the Prophet Mohamed received and recited Gods message should only be defended by Muslims Bin Laden would lead his Afghans his Arab mujahedin against the Iraqi army inside Kuwait and drive them from the emirate King Fahd of Saudi Arabia preferred to put his trust in the Americans So as the US 82nd Airborne Division arrived in the north-eastern Saudi city of Dhahran and deployed in the desert scarcely 400 miles from the city of Medina - the place of the Prophets refuge and of the first Islamic society - Bin Laden abandoned the corruption of the House of Saud to bestow his generosity on another Islamic Republic Sudan

Our journey north from Khartoum lay though a landscape of white desert and ancient unexplored pyramids dark squat Pharaonic tombs smaller than those of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus at Giza The people like Bin Laden here Kashoggi said in much the way that one might comment approvingly of a dinner host Hes got his business here and his construction company and the government likes him He helps the poor I could understand all this He had just completed building a new road from the Khartoum-Port Sudan highway to the tiny desert village of Almatig in northern Sudan using the same bulldozers he had employed to construct the guerrilla trails of Afghanistan many of his labourers were the same fighters who had been his comrades in the battle against the Soviet Union The US State Department took a predictably less charitable view of Bin Ladens beneficence It accused Sudan of being a sponsor of international terrorism and Bin Laden himself of operating terrorist training camps in the Sudanese desert

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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But when Kashoggi and I arrived in Almatig there was Osama bin Laden in his gold-fringed robe sitting beneath the canopy of a tent before a crowd of admiring villagers and guarded by the loyal Arab mujahedin who fought alongside him in Afghanistan Bearded silent figures they watched unsmiling as the Sudanese villagers lined up to thank the Saudi businessman who was about to complete the road linking their slums to Khartoum for the first time in history

My first impression was of a shy man With his high cheekbones narrow eyes and long brown robe he would avert his eyes when the village leaders addressed him He seemed ill at ease with gratitude incapable of responding with a full smile when children in miniature chadors danced in front of him and preachers admired his wisdom

Kashoggi put his arms around Bin Laden and Bin Laden kissed him on both cheeks Jamal Kashoggi must have brought the foreigner for a reason That is what Bin Laden was thinking For as Kashoggi spoke Bin Laden looked over his shoulder at me occasionally nodding Robert I want to introduce you to Sheikh Osama Kashoggi half-shouted through childrens songs Bin Laden was a tall man and he realised that this was an advantage when he shook hands with the English reporter Salaam aleikum His hands were firm not strong but yes he looked like a mountain man The eyes searched your face He was lean and had long fingers and a smile which - while it could never be described as kind - did not suggest villainy He said we might talk at the back of the tent where we could avoid the shouting of the children

Looking back now knowing what we know understanding the monstrous beast-figure he would become in the collective imagination of the world I search for some clue the tiniest piece of evidence that this man could inspire an act that would change the world for ever - or more to the point allow an American president to persuade his people that the world was changed for ever Certainly his formal denial of terrorism gave no hint The Egyptian press was claiming that Bin Laden had brought hundreds of his Arab fighters with him to Sudan while the Western embassy circuit in Khartoum was suggesting that some of the Arab Afghans whom this Saudi entrepreneur had flown to Sudan were now busy training for further jihad wars in Algeria Tunisia and Egypt Bin Laden was well aware of this

The rubbish of the media and embassies he called it I am a construction engineer and an agriculturalist If I had training camps here in Sudan I couldnt possibly do this job The job was certainly ambitious not just the Almatig connection but a brand-new highway stretching all the way from Khartoum to Port Sudan a distance of 1200km on the old road now shortened to 800km by the new Bin Laden route that would turn the distance from the capital into a mere days journey In a country that was despised by Saudi Arabia for its support of Saddam Hussein after his 1990 invasion of Kuwait almost as much as it was by the United States Bin Laden had turned the equipment of war to the construction of a pariah state

I did wonder why he could not have done the same to the blighted landscape of Afghanistan but he refused at first to talk about his war sitting at the back of the tent and cleaning his teeth with a piece of mishwak wood But talk he eventually did about a war that he helped to win for the Afghans whom the Americans and the Saudis - and the f Pakistanis - all supported against the Russians He wanted to talk He thought he was going to be interrogated about terrorism and realised that he was being asked about Afghanistan and he wished to explain how his experience there had shaped his life

What I lived through in two years there he said I could not have lived in a hundred years elsewhere When the invasion of Afghanistan started I was enraged and went there at once and I went on going back for nine years I felt outraged that an injustice had been committed against the people of Afghanistan It made me realise that people who take power in the world use it under different names to subvert others and to force their opinions on them

With his Iraqi engineer Mohamed Saad who was now building the highway to Port Sudan Bin Laden blasted massive tunnels into the Zazai mountains of Paktia province for guerrilla hospitals and arms dumps then cut a mujahedin dirt trail across Afghanistan to within 25km of Kabul a remarkable feat of engineering that the Russians could never destroy But what lessons had Bin Laden drawn from the war against the Russians He was wounded five times and 500 of his Arab fighters were killed in combat with the Soviets - their graves lie just inside the Afghan border at Torkham - and even Bin Laden was not immortal was he

I was never afraid of death he replied As Muslims we believe that when we die we go to heaven He was no longer irritating his teeth with the piece of mishwak wood but talking slowly and continuously leaning forward his

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

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Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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elbows on his knees Before a battle God sends us seqina - tranquillity Once I was only 30 metres from the Russians and they were trying to capture me I was under bombardment but I was so peaceful in my heart that I fell asleep We beat the Soviet Union The Russians fled My time in Afghanistan was the most important experience of my life

But what of the Arab mujahedin whom he took to Afghanistan - members of a guerrilla army who were also encouraged and armed by the United States to fight the Russians and who were forgotten by their mentors when the war was over Bin Laden seemed ready for the question Neither I nor my brothers saw evidence of American help he said When my mujahedin were victorious and the Russians were driven out differences started so I returned to road construction in Taif and Abha [in Saudi Arabia] I brought back the equipment I had used to build tunnels and roads for the mujahedin in Afghanistan Yes I helped some of my comrades come here after the war How many Bin Laden shook his head I dont want to say But they are here with me now they are working right here building this road to Port Sudan

What did he think about the war in Algeria I asked But a man in a green suit calling himself Mohamed Moussa - he claimed to be Nigerian although he was a Sudanese government security agent - tapped me on the arm You have asked more than enough questions he announced So how about a picture Bin Laden hesitated - something he rarely did - and I sensed that prudence was fighting with vanity In the end he stood on the new road in his gold-fringed robe and smiled wanly at my camera for two pictures then raised his left hand like a president telling the press when their time was up At which point Osama bin Laden went off to inspect his highway

Two months after I met Bin Laden gunmen burst into his Khartoum home and tried to assassinate him The Sudanese government suspected the potential killers were paid by the CIA Saudi Arabia stripped him of his citizenship later that year In early 1996 he was permitted to leave for the country of his choice - and that was bound to be the one refuge in which he had discovered so much about his own faith

And so it was that one hot evening in late June 1996 the telephone on my desk in Beirut rang with one of the more extraordinary messages I was to receive as a foreign correspondent Mr Robert a friend you met in Sudan wants to see you said a voice in English but with an Arabic accent I thought at first he meant Kashoggi though I had first met Jamal in 1990 long before going to Khartoum No no Mr Robert I mean the man you interviewed Do you understand Yes I understood And where could I meet this man The place where he is now came the reply I knew that Bin Laden was rumoured to have returned to Afghanistan but there was no confirmation of this So how do I reach him I asked Go to Jalalabad - you will be contacted

5 JULY 1996 CLACK-CLACK-CLACK It was as if someone was attacking my head with an ice-pick CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK I sat up Someone was banging a set of car keys against the window of my room in the Spinghar Hotel Misssster Robert a voice whispered urgently Misssster Robert He hissed the word Mister Yes yes Im here Please come downstairs there is someone to see you It registered only slowly that the man must have climbed the ancient fire escape to reach the window of my room I dressed grabbed a coat - I had a feeling we might travel in the night - and almost forgot my old Nikon I walked as calmly as I could past the reception desk and out into the early afternoon heat

The man wore a grubby grey Afghan robe and a small round cotton hat but he was an Arab and he greeted me formally holding my right hand in both of his He smiled He said his name was Mohamed he was my guide To see the Sheikh I asked He smiled but said nothing

I followed Mohamed all the way through the dust of Jalalabads main street until we arrived next to a group of gunmen in a pick-up truck in the ruins of an old Soviet army base a place of broken armoured vehicles with a rusting red star on a shattered gateway There were three men in Afghan hats in the back of the pick-up One held a Kalashnikov rifle another clutched a grenade-launcher along with six rockets tied together with Scotch tape The third nursed a machine gun on his lap complete with tripod and a belt of ammunition Mr Robert these are our guards the driver said quietly as if it was the most normal thing in the world to set off across the wilds of Afghanistans Nangarhar province under a white-hot afternoon sun with three bearded guerrillas A two-way radio hissed and crackled on the shoulder of the drivers companion as another truckload of Afghan gunmen drove up behind us

We were about to set off when Mohamed climbed back down from the pick-up along with the driver walked to a shaded patch of grass and began to pray For five minutes the two men lay half-prostrate facing the distant Kabul

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

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to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

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the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

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Gorge and beyond that a far more distant Mecca We drove off along a broken highway and then turned on to a dirt track by an irrigation canal the guns in the back of the truck bouncing on the floor the guards eyes peering from behind their chequered scarves We travelled like that for hours past half-demolished mud villages and valleys and towering black rocks a journey across the face of the moon

By dusk we had reached a series of cramped earthen villages old men burning charcoal fires by the track the shadow of women cowled in the Afghan burqa standing in the alleyways There were more guerrillas all bearded grinning at Mohamed and the driver It was night before we stopped in an orchard where wooden sofas had been covered in army blankets piled with belts and webbing and where armed men emerged out of the darkness all in Afghan clothes and soft woollen flat hats some holding rifles others machine guns They were the Arab mujahedin the Arab Afghans denounced by the presidents and kings of half the Arab world and by the United States of America Very soon the world would know them as al-Qaida

They came from Egypt Algeria Saudi Arabia Jordan Syria Kuwait Two of them wore spectacles one said he was a doctor A few of them shook hands in a rather solemn way and greeted me in Arabic I knew that these men would give their lives for Bin Laden that they thought themselves spiritually pure in a corrupt world that they were inspired and influenced by dreams which they persuaded themselves came from heaven Mohamed beckoned me to follow him and we skirted a small river and jumped across a stream until in the insect-filled darkness ahead we could see a f sputtering paraffin lamp Beside it sat a tall bearded man in Saudi robes Osama bin Laden stood up his two teenage sons Omar and Saad beside him Welcome to Afghanistan he said

He was now 40 but looked much older than at our last meeting in the Sudanese desert late in 1993 Walking towards me he towered over his companions tall slim with new wrinkles around those narrow eyes Leaner his beard longer but slightly flecked with grey he had a black waistcoat over his white robe and a red-chequered kuffiah on his head and he seemed tired When he asked after my health I told him I had come a long way for this meeting So have I he muttered There was also an isolation about him a detachment I had not noticed before as if he had been inspecting his anger examining the nature of his resentment when he smiled his gaze would move towards his 16-year-old son Omar - round eyes with dark brows and his own kuffiah - and then off into the hot darkness where his armed men were patrolling the fields Others were gathering to listen to our conversation

Just 10 days before a truck bomb had torn down part of the US Air Force housing complex at al-Khobar in Dhahran Saudi Arabia and we were speaking in the shadow of the deaths of the 19 American soldiers killed there US Secretary of State Warren Christopher had visited the ruins and promised that America would not be swayed by violence that the perpetrators would be hunted down King Fahd of Saudi Arabia who had since lapsed into a state of dementia had foreseen the possibility of violence when American military forces arrived to defend his kingdom in 1990 It was for this very reason that he had on 6 August that year extracted a promise from then President George Bush that all US troops would leave his country when the Iraqi threat ended But the Americans had stayed claiming that the continued existence of Saddams regime - which Bush had chosen not to destroy - still constituted a danger to the Gulf

Osama bin Laden knew what he wanted to say Not long ago I gave advice to the Americans to withdraw their troops from Saudi Arabia Now let us give some advice to the governments of Britain and France to take their troops out - because what happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar showed that the people who did this have a deep understanding in choosing their targets They hit their main enemy which is the Americans They killed no secondary enemies nor their brothers in the army or the police in Saudi Arabia I give this advice to the government of Britain The Americans must leave Saudi Arabia must leave the Gulf The evils of the Middle East arose from Americas attempt to take over the region and from its support for Israel Saudi Arabia had been turned into an American colony Bin Laden was speaking slowly and with precision an Egyptian taking notes in a large exercise book by the lamplight like a Middle Ages scribe This doesnt mean declaring war against the West and Western people - but against the American regime which is against every American I interrupted Bin Laden Unlike Arab regimes I said the people of the United States elected their government They would say that their government represents them He disregarded my comment I hope he did For in the years to come his war would embrace the deaths of thousands of American civilians The explosion in al-Khobar did not come as a direct reaction to the American occupation he said but as a result of American behaviour against Muslims its support of Jews in Palestine and of the massacres of Muslims in Palestine and Lebanon - of Sabra and Chatila and Qana - and of the Sharm el-Sheikh conference

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But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

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was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

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other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

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Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

20

to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

==========================

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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16

But what Bin Laden really wanted to talk about was Saudi Arabia Since our last meeting in Sudan he said the situation in the kingdom had grown worse The ulema the religious leaders had declared in the mosques that the presence of American troops was not acceptable and the government took action against these ulema on the advice of the Americans For Bin Laden the betrayal of the Saudi people began 24 years before his birth when Abdul Aziz al-Saud proclaimed his kingdom in 1932 The regime started under the flag of applying Islamic law and under this banner all the people of Saudi Arabia came to help the Saudi family take power But Abdul Aziz did not apply Islamic law the country was set up for his family Then after the discovery of petroleum the Saudi regime found another support - the money to make people rich and to give them the services and life they wanted and to make them satisfied Bin Laden was picking away at his teeth with that familiar twig of mishwak wood but history - or his version of it - was the basis of almost all his remarks The Saudi royal family had promised sharia laws while at the same time allowing the United States to Westernise Saudi Arabia and drain the economy He blamed the Saudi regime for spending $25bn (pound14bn) in support of Saddam Hussein in the Iran-Iraq war and a further US$60bn in support of the Western armies in the 1991 war against Iraq buying military equipment which is not needed or useful for the country buying aircraft by credit while at the same time creating unemployment high taxes and a bankrupt economy But for Bin Laden the pivotal date was 1990 the year Saddam invaded Kuwait When the American troops entered Saudi Arabia the land of the two Holy places there was a strong protest from the ulema and from students of sharia law all over the country against the interference of American troops This big mistake by the Saudi regime of inviting the American troops revealed their deception They were giving their support to nations which were fighting against Muslims Bin Laden paused to see if I had listened to his careful if frighteningly exclusive history lesson The Saudi people have remembered now what the ulema told them and they realise America is the main reason for their problems the ordinary man knows that his country is the largest oil-producer in the world yet at the same time he is suffering from taxes and bad services Now the people understand the speeches of the ulemas in the mosques - that our country has become an American colony What happened in Riyadh and al-Khobar is clear evidence of the huge anger of Saudi people against America The Saudis now know their real enemy is America The overthrow of the Saudi regime and the eviction of US forces from the kingdom were one and the same for Bin Laden He was claiming that the real religious leadership of Saudi Arabia - among whom he clearly saw himself - was an inspiration to Saudis that Saudis themselves would drive out the Americans that Saudis - hitherto regarded as a rich and complacent people - might strike at the United States Could this be true

Bin Laden sometimes stopped speaking for all of 60 seconds - he was the first Arab figure I noticed doing this - in order to reflect on his words Most Arabs faced with a reporters question would say the first thing that came into their heads for fear that they would appear ignorant if they did not Bin Laden was different He was alarming because he was possessed of that quality which leads men to war total self-conviction

Bin Laden had asked me - a routine of every Palestinian under occupation - if Europeans did not resist occupation during the Second World War I told him no Europeans would accept this argument over Saudi Arabia - because the Nazis killed millions of Europeans yet the Americans had never murdered a single Saudi Such a parallel was historically and morally wrong Bin Laden did not agree We as Muslims have a strong feeling that binds us together We feel for our brothers in Palestine and Lebanon When 60 Jews are killed inside Palestine - he was talking about Palestinian suicide bombings in Israel - all the world gathers within seven days to criticise this action while the deaths of 600000 Iraqi children did not receive the same reaction It was Bin Ladens first reference to Iraq and to the United Nations sanctions that were to result according to UN officials themselves in the death of more than half a million children Killing those Iraqi children is a crusade against Islam Bin Laden said We as Muslims do not like the Iraqi regime but we think that the Iraqi people and their children are our brothers and we care about their future It was the first time I heard him use the word crusade

But it was neither the first - nor the last - time that Bin Laden would distance himself from Saddam Husseins dictatorship Much good would it do him Five years later the United States would launch an invasion of Iraq that would be partly justified by the regimes support for a man who so detested it But these were not the only words which Bin Laden uttered that night to which I should have paid greater attention For at one point he placed his right hand on his chest I believe that sooner or later the Americans will leave Saudi Arabia and that the war declared by America against the Saudi people means war against all Muslims everywhere he said Resistance against America will spread in many many places in Muslim countries Our trusted leaders the ulema have given us a fatwa that we must drive out the Americans

For some time there had been a steadily growing thunderstorm to the east of Bin Ladens camp and we could see the bright orange flash of lightning over the mountains on the Pakistan border But Bin Laden thought this might be artillery fire the continuation of the inter-mujahedin battles that had damaged his spirit after the anti-Soviet war He

17

was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

18

other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

19

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

20

to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

==========================

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

wwwindependentcouk

go to top

httpwwwrobert-fiskcom

Page 17: 30590078 fisk-robert-the-great-war-for-civilisation-the-conquest-of-the-middle-east

17

was growing uneasy He broke off his conversation to pray Then on the straw mat several young and armed men served dinner - plates of yoghurt and cheese and Afghan naan bread and more tea Bin Laden sat between his sons silent eyes on his food

I said to Bin Laden that Afghanistan was the only country left to him after his exile in Sudan He agreed The safest place in the world for me is Afghanistan It was the only place I repeated in which he could campaign against the Saudi government Bin Laden and several of his Arab fighters burst into laughter There are other places he replied Did he mean Tajikistan I asked Or Uzbekistan Kazakhstan There are several places where we have friends and close brothers - we can find refuge and safety in them I told Bin Laden he was already a hunted man Danger is a part of our life he snapped back

He began talking to his men about amniya security and repeatedly looked towards those flashes in the sky Now the thunder did sound like gunfire I tried to ask one more question What kind of Islamic state would Bin Laden wish to see Would thieves and murderers still have their hands or heads cut off in his Islamic sharia state just as they do in Saudi Arabia today There came an unsatisfactory reply Islam is a complete religion for every detail of life If a man is a real Muslim and commits a crime he can only be happy if he is justly punished This is not cruelty The origin of these punishments comes from God through the Prophet Mohamed peace be upon him Dissident Osama bin Laden may be but moderate never I asked permission to take his photograph and while he debated this with his companions I scribbled into my notebook the words I would use in the last paragraph of my report on our meeting Osama bin Laden believes he now represents the most formidable enemy of the Saudi regime and of the American presence in the Gulf Both are probably right to regard him as such I was underestimating the man

Yes he said I could take his picture I opened my camera and allowed his armed guards to watch me as I threaded a film into the spool I told them I refused to use a flash because it flattened the image of a human face and asked them to bring the paraffin lamp closer The Egyptian scribe held it a foot from Bin Ladens face I told him to bring it closer still to within three inches and I physically had to guide his arm until the light brightened and shadowed Bin Ladens features Then without warning Bin Laden moved his head back and the faintest smile moved over his face along with that self-conviction and that ghost of vanity which I found so disturbing He called his sons Omar and Saad and they sat beside him as I took more pictures and Bin Laden turned into the proud father the family man the Arab at home

Then his anxiety returned The thunder was continuous now and it was mixed with the patter of rifle fire I should go he urged and I realised that what he meant was that he must go that it was time for him to return to the fastness of Afghanistan When we shook hands he was already looking for the guards who would take him away Mohamed and my driver and just two of the armed men who had brought me to these damp insect-hungry fields turned up to drive me back to the Spinghar Hotel a journey that proved to be full of menace Driving across river bridges and road intersections we were repeatedly stopped by armed men from the Afghan factions that were fighting for control of Kabul One would crouch on the roadway in front of our vehicle screaming at us pointing his rifle at the windscreen his companion sidling out of the darkness to check our drivers identity and wave us through Afghanistan very difficult place Mohamed remarked

WITHIN NINE months by March 1997 I would be back in a transformed still more sinister Afghanistan its people governed with a harsh and ignorant piety that even Bin Laden could not have imagined The Taliban had finally vanquished 12 of the 15 venal Afghan mujahedin militias in all but the far north-eastern corner of the country and imposed their own stark legitimacy on its people It was a purist Sunni Wahhabi faith whose interpretation of sharia law recalled the most draconian of early Christian prelates Head-chopping hand-chopping and a totally misogynist perspective were easy to associate with the Talibans hostility towards all forms of enjoyment The Spinghar Hotel used to boast an old television set that had now been hidden in a garden shed for fear of destruction Television sets like videotapes and thieves tended to end up hanging from trees What do you expect the gardener asked me near the ruins of the old royal winter palace in Jalalabad The Taliban came from the refugee camps They are giving us only what they had And it dawned on me then that the new laws of Afghanistan - so anachronistic and brutal to us and to educated Afghans - were less an attempt at religious revival than a continuation of life in the vast dirt camps in which so many millions of Afghans had gathered on the borders of their country when the Soviets invaded 16 years before

The Taliban gunmen had grown up as refugees in these diseased camps in Pakistan Their first 16 years of life were passed in blind poverty deprived of all education and entertainment imposing their own deadly punishments their mothers and sisters kept in subservience as the men decided how to fight their foreign oppressors on the

18

other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

19

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

20

to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

==========================

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

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18

other side of the border their only diversion a detailed and obsessive reading of the Koran - the one and true path in a world in which no other could be contemplated The Taliban had arrived not to rebuild a country they did not remember but to rebuild their refugee camps on a larger scale Hence there was to be no education No television Women must stay home just as they stayed in their tents in Peshawar

Did we care At that very moment officials of the Union Oil Co of California Asian Oil Pipeline Project - Unocal - were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights for a pipeline to carry gas from Turkmenistan to Pakistan through Afghanistan in September 1996 the US State Department announced that it would open diplomatic relations with the Taliban only to retract the statement later Among Unocals employees were Zalmay Khalilzad - five years later he would be appointed President George f W Bushs special envoy to liberated Afghanistan - and a Pushtun leader called Hamid Karzai No wonder Afghans adopted an attitude of suspicion towards the United States Americas allies originally supported Bin Laden against the Russians Then the United States turned Bin Laden into their Public Enemy Number One - a post that was admittedly difficult to retain in the Pentagon wheel of fortune since new monsters were constantly being discovered by Washington often in inverse proportion to its ability to capture the old ones Now the Taliban were being courted But for how long Could Bin Laden an Arab whose political goals were infinitely more ambitious than the Talibans maintain the integrity of his exile alongside men who wished only to repress their own people Would the Taliban protect Bin Laden any more courageously than the failed Islamic Republic of Sudan

19 MARCH 1997 On the mountainside the machine continued his search of the machine We were at 5000 feet Lights flashed until we turned a corner past a massive boulder and there before us in the moonlight lay a small valley There was grass and trees and a stream of water that curled through it and a clutch of tents under a cliff Two men approached There were more formal Arab greetings my right hand in both of theirs Trust us That was always the intention of these greetings An Algerian and an Egyptian they invited me to tour this little valley

We washed our hands in the stream and walked over the stiff grass towards a dark gash in the cliff face above us As my eyes became accustomed to the light I could make out a vast rectangle in the side of the mountain a 6m-high air-raid shelter cut into the rock by Bin Ladens men during the Russian war I walked into this man-made cave the Algerian holding a torch until I could hear my own crunching footsteps echoing softly from the depths of the tunnel When we emerged the moon was almost dazzling the valley bathed in its white light another little paradise of trees and water and mountain peaks

The tent I was taken to was military issue a khaki tarpaulin roped to iron stakes a flap as an entrance a set of stained mattresses on the floor There was tea in a large steel pot and I sat with the Egyptian and Algerian and with three other men who had entered the tent with Kalashnikovs We waited for perhaps half an hour

There was a sudden scratching of voices outside the tent thin and urgent like the soundtrack of an old movie Then the flap snapped up and Bin Laden walked in dressed in a turban and green robes I stood up half bent under the canvas and we shook hands both of us forced by the tarpaulin that touched our heads to greet each other like Ottoman pashas bowed and looking up into the others face Again he looked tired and I had noticed a slight limp when he walked into the tent His beard was greyer his face thinner than I remembered it Yet he was all smiles almost jovial placing the rifle which he had carried into the tent on the mattress to his left insisting on more tea for his guest For several seconds he looked at the ground Then he looked at me with an even bigger smile beneficent and I thought at once very disturbing

Mr Robert he began and he looked around at the other men in combat jackets and soft brown hats who had crowded into the tent Mr Robert one of our brothers had a dream He dreamed that you came to us one day on a horse that you had a beard and that you were a spiritual person You wore a robe like us This means you are a true Muslim This was terrifying It was one of the most fearful moments of my life I understood Bin Ladens meaning a split second in front of each of his words Dream Horse Beard Spiritual Robe Muslim The other men in the tent were all nodding and looking at me some smiling others silently staring at the Englishman who had appeared in the dream of the brother I was appalled It was both a trap and an invitation and the most dangerous moment to be among the most dangerous men in the world I could not reject the dream lest I suggest Bin Laden was lying Yet I could not accept its meaning without myself lying without suggesting that what was clearly intended of me - that I should accept this dream as a prophecy and a divine instruction - might be fulfilled For this man to trust me a foreigner to come to them without prejudice that was one thing But to imagine that I would join them in their struggle that I would become one with them was beyond any possibility The coven was waiting for a reply

19

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

20

to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

==========================

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

wwwindependentcouk

go to top

httpwwwrobert-fiskcom

Page 19: 30590078 fisk-robert-the-great-war-for-civilisation-the-conquest-of-the-middle-east

19

Was I imagining this Could this not be just an elaborate rhetorical way of expressing traditional respect towards a visitor Was this not merely the attempt of a Muslim to gain an adherent to the faith Was Bin Laden really trying - let us be frank - to recruit me I feared he was And I immediately understood what this might mean A Westerner a white man from England a journalist on a respectable newspaper - not a British convert to Islam of Arab or Asian origin - would be a catch indeed He would go unsuspected he could become a government official join an army even - as I would contemplate just over four years later - learn to fly an airliner I had to get out of this quickly and I was trying to find an intellectual escape tunnel working so hard in digging it that my brain was on fire

Sheikh Osama I began even before I had decided on my next words Sheikh Osama I am not a Muslim There was silence in the tent I am a journalist No one could dispute that And the job of a journalist is to tell the truth No one would want to dispute that And that is what I intend to do in my life - to tell the truth Bin Laden was watching me like a hawk And he understood I was declining the offer In front of his men it was now Bin Ladens turn to withdraw to cover his retreat gracefully If you tell the truth that means you are a good Muslim he said The men in the tent in their combat jackets and beards all nodded at this sagacity Bin Laden smiled I was saved As the old clicheacute goes I breathed again No deal

Perhaps it was out of the need to curtail this episode to cover his embarrassment at this little failure that Bin Laden suddenly and melodramatically noticed the school satchel lying beside my camera and the Lebanese newspapers partially visible inside He seized upon them He must read them at once And in front of us all he clambered across the tent with the papers in his hand to where the paraffin lamp was hissing in the corner And there for half an hour ignoring almost all of us he read his way through the Arabic press sometimes summoning the Egyptian to read an article at others showing a paper to one of the other gunmen in the tent Was this really I began to wonder the centre of world terror Listening to the spokesman at the US State Department reading the editorials in The New York Times or The Washington Post I might have been forgiven for believing that Bin Laden ran his terror network from a state-of-the-art bunker of computers and digitalised battle plans flicking a switch to instruct his followers to assault another Western target But this man seemed divorced from the outside world Did he not have a radio A television

When he returned to his place in the corner of the tent Bin Laden was businesslike He warned the Americans of a renewed onslaught against their forces in Saudi Arabia We are still at the beginning of military action against them he said But we have removed the psychological obstacle against fighting the Americans This is the first time in 14 centuries that the two holy shrines are occupied by non-Islamic forces He insisted that the Americans were in the Gulf for oil and embarked on a modern history of the region to prove this

Brezhnev wanted to reach the Hormuz Strait across Afghanistan for this reason but by the grace of Allah and the jihad he was not only defeated in Afghanistan but was finished here We carried our weapons on our shoulders here for 10 years and we and the sons of the Islamic world are prepared to carry weapons for the rest of our lives But despite this oil is not the direct impetus for the Americans occupying the region - they obtained oil at attractive prices before their invasion There are other reasons primarily the American-Zionist alliance which is filled with fear at the power of Islam and of the land of Mecca and Medina It fears that an Islamic f renaissance will drown Israel We are convinced that we shall kill the Jews in Palestine We are convinced that with Allahs help we shall triumph against the American forces Its only a matter of numbers and time For them to claim that they are protecting Arabia from Iraq is untrue - the whole issue of Saddam is a trick

There was something new getting loose here Condemning Israel was standard fare for any Arab nationalist let alone a man who believed he was participating in an Islamic jihad But Bin Laden was now combining America and Israel as a single country - For us he said later there is no difference between the American and Israeli governments or between the American and Israeli soldiers - and was talking of Jews rather than Israeli soldiers as his targets How soon before all Westerners all those from Crusader nations were added to the list He took no credit for the bombings in Riyadh and al-Khobar but praised the four men who had been accused of setting off the explosions two of whom he admitted he had met I view those who did these bombings with great respect he said I consider it a great act and a major honour in which I missed the opportunity of participating But Bin Laden was also anxious to show the support for his cause which he claimed was now growing in Pakistan He produced newspaper clippings recording the sermons of Pakistani clerics who had condemned Americas presence in Saudi Arabia and then thrust into my hands two large coloured photographs of graffiti spray-painted on walls in Karachi

In red paint one said American Forces get out of the Gulf - The United Militant Ulemas Another painted in brown announced that America is the biggest enemy of the Muslim world A large poster that Bin Laden handed

20

to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

==========================

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

wwwindependentcouk

go to top

httpwwwrobert-fiskcom

Page 20: 30590078 fisk-robert-the-great-war-for-civilisation-the-conquest-of-the-middle-east

20

to me appeared to be from the same hand with similar anti-American sentiment uttered by mawlawi - religious scholars - in the Pakistani city of Lahore As for the Taliban and their new oppressive regime Bin Laden had little option but to be pragmatic All Islamic countries are my country he said We believe that the Taliban are sincere in their attempts to enforce Islamic sharia law We saw the situation before they came and afterwards and have noticed a great difference and an obvious improvement But when he returned to his most important struggle - against the United States - Bin Laden seemed possessed When he spoke of this his followers in the tent hung upon his every word as if he was a messiah He had he said sent faxes to King Fahd and all main departments of the Saudi government informing them of his determination to pursue a holy struggle against the United States He even claimed that some members of the Saudi royal family supported him along with officers in the security services - a claim I later discovered to be true But declaring war by fax was a new innovation and there was an eccentricity about Bin Ladens perspective on American politics

But this was a mere distraction from a far more serious threat We think that our struggle against America will be much simpler than that against the Soviet Union Bin Laden said I will tell you something for the first time Some of our mujahedin who fought in Afghanistan participated in operations against the Americans in Somalia and they were surprised at the collapse in American military morale We regard America as a paper tiger This was a strategic error of some scale The American retreat from its state-building mission in Somalia under President Clinton was not going to be repeated if a Republican president came to power especially if the United States was under attack True over the years the same loss of will might creep back into American military policy - Iraq would see to that - but Washington whatever Bin Laden might think was going to be a far more serious adversary than Moscow Yet he persisted And I shall always remember Osama bin Ladens last words to me that night on the bare mountain Mr Robert he said from this mountain upon which you are sitting we broke the Russian army and we destroyed the Soviet Union And I pray to God that he will permit us to turn the United States into a shadow of itself I sat in silence thinking about these words as Bin Laden discussed my journey back to Jalalabad with his guards He was concerned that the Taliban - despite their sincerity - might object to his dispatching a foreigner through their checkpoints after dark and so I was invited to pass the night in Bin Ladens mountain camp I was permitted to take just three photographs of him this time by the light of the Toyota which was driven to the tent with its headlights shining through the canvas to illuminate Bin Ladens face He sat in front of me expressionless a stone figure and in the pictures I developed in Beirut three days later he was a purple and yellow ghost He said goodbye without much ceremony a brief handshake and a nod and vanished from the tent and I lay down on the mattress with my coat over me to keep warm The men with their guns sitting around slept there too while others armed with rifles and rocket-launchers patrolled the low ridges around the camp

In the years to come I would wonder who they were Was the Egyptian Mohamed Atta among those young men in the tent Or any other of the 19 men whose names we would all come to know just over four years later I cannot remember their faces now cowled as they were many of them in their scarves

Exhaustion and cold kept me awake A shadow of itself was the expression that kept repeating itself to me What did Bin Laden and these dedicated ruthless men have in store for us I recall the next few hours like a freeze-frame film waking so cold there was ice in my hair slithering back down the mountain trail in the Toyota with one of the Algerian gunmen in the back telling me that if we were in Algeria he would cut my throat but that he was under Bin Ladens orders to protect me and thus would give his life for me The three men in the back and my driver stopped the 4x4 on the broken-up Kabul-Jalalabad highway to say their dawn fajr prayers Beside the broad estuary of the Kabul river they spread their mats and knelt as the sun rose over the mountains Far to the north-east I could see the heights of the Hindu Kush glimmering white under a pale blue sky touching the border of China that nuzzled into the wreckage of a land that was to endure yet more suffering in the coming years

Most of all I remember the first minutes after our departure from Bin Ladens camp It was still dark when I caught sight of a great light in the mountains to the north For a while I thought it was the headlights of another vehicle another security signal from the camp guards to our departing Toyota But it hung there for many minutes and I began to realise that it was burning above the mountains and carried a faintly incandescent trail The men in the vehicle were watching it too It is Halleys comet one of them said He was wrong It was a newly discovered comet noticed for the first time only two years earlier by Americans Alan Hale and Tom Bopp but I could see how Hale-Bopp had become Halley to these Arab men in the mountains of Afghanistan It was soaring above us now trailing a golden tail a sublime power moving at 70000km an hour through the heavens

So we stopped the Toyota and climbed out to watch the fireball as it blazed through the darkness above us the al-Qaida men and the Englishman all filled with awe at this spectacular wondrous apparition of cosmic energy unseen for more than 4000 years Mr Robert do you know what they say when a comet like this is seen It was

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

==========================

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

wwwindependentcouk

go to top

httpwwwrobert-fiskcom

Page 21: 30590078 fisk-robert-the-great-war-for-civilisation-the-conquest-of-the-middle-east

21

the Algerian standing next to me now both of us craning our necks up towards the sky It means that there is going to be a great war And so we watched the fire blaze through the pageant of stars and illuminate the firmament above us

For succeeding extracts please click here

==========================

Extracted from The Great War for Civilisation the Conquest of the Middle East by Robert Fisk to be published by 4th Estate on Monday pound25 To buy the book at the special price of pound2250 including pampp call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798897 or visit wwwindependentbooksdirectcouk - Read more exclusive extracts from The Great War for Civilisation tomorrow in The Independent on Sunday and all next week in The Independent

wwwindependentcouk

go to top

httpwwwrobert-fiskcom