3.0 l engine

2003 ENGINE

Engine Mechanical - 3.0L (L81) - Saturn L Series

SPECIFICATIONS

FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS

Fastener Tightening Specifications

ApplicationSpecification

Metric EnglishA/C Compressor Bolts 20 N.m 15 lb ftA/C Compressor Bracket Bolt 40 N.m 30 lb ftA/C Compressor and Power Steering Pump Bracket Bolts 40 N.m 30 lb ftAir Box Mount Bolt 6 N.m 53 lb inBattery Terminal Bolts 17 N.m 13 lb inBelt Tensioner Bolts 40 N.m 30 lb ftBrake Vacuum Line 20 N.m 15 lb ftCamshaft Bearing Cap Bolt 8 N.m 71 lb inCamshaft Cover Bolts 8 N.m 71 lb ftCamshaft Sprocket Bolt

First Pass 50 N.m 37 lb ft

Second Pass 60 degrees

Final Pass 15 degrees

Connecting Rod Cap Bolts




Coolant Bridge Bolt 30 N.m 22 lb ftCoolant Extension Housing Bolt 20 N.m 15 lb ftCoolant Intake Housing Bolts 20 N.m 15 lb ftCoolant Pipe/Engine Lift Bracket Bolt 20 N.m 15 lb ftCrankshaft Balancer Bolt 20 N.m 15 lb ftCrankshaft Bearing Bridge Adjusting Sleeves 8 N.m 71 lb inCrankshaft Bearing Bridge Bolts 20 N.m 15 lb ftCrankshaft Bearing Cap




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2003 ENGINE Engine Mechanical - 3.0L (L81) - Saturn L Series

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Crankshaft Drive Gear Bolt




Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolt 8 N.m 71 lb inCrankshaft Reluctor Ring Screw 15 N.m 11 lb ftCylinder Head Bolt



Third Pass 90 degrees

Fourth Pass 90 degrees


EGR Manifold Bolt 8 N.m 71 lb inEGR Pipe Bolts 25 N.m 18 lb ftEngine Control Module Bolts 8 N.m 71 lb inEngine Lift Bracket Bolts 8 N.m 71 lb inEngine Mount Bracket Bolt 55 N.m 41 lb ftEngine Mount-to-Bracket Bolt 55 N.m 41 lb ftEngine Mount-to-Frame Bolt 55 N.m 41 lb ftEngine Oil Cooler Cover Bolt 30 N.m 22 lb ftEngine Oil Cooler Inlet and Outlet Nut 20 N.m 15 lb ftEngine Ventilation Chamber Bolts 8 N.m 71 lb inExhaust Manifold Nut 20 N.m 15 lb ftExhaust Manifold Pipe-to-Exhaust Manifold Nuts 30 N.m 25 lb ftFlex Plate Bolt




Front Timing Belt Cover Bolt 8 N.m 71 lb inFuel Rail Bolts 8 N.m 71 lb inGenerator Mounting Bolts 40 N.m 30 lb ftIdler Pulley Bolt 40 N.m 30 lb ftIdler Pulley Fastener 40 N.m 30 lb ftIgnition Module Bolt 8 N.m 71 lb inIntake Manifold Bolt 20 N.m 15 lb ftIntake Manifold Runner Bolts 8 N.m 71 lb inIntake Manifold Runner Bracket Bolt 20 N.m 15 lb ftIntake Manifold Spacer Plate Bolt 20 N.m 15 lb ft

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ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Engine Block Specifications

Intake Plenum Bolts 8 N.m 71 lb inLower Engine-to-Transaxle Bell Housing Bolts 65 N.m 48 lb ftNose Cone Bracket-to-Oil Pan Bolts - Transaxle Nose Bracket Bolts

40 N.m 30 lb ft

Oil Cooler Feed and Return Lines to Engine Block 30 N.m 22 lb ftOil Drain Plug 10 N.m 89 lb inOil Filter Cap 15 N.m 11 lb ftOil Filter Cartridge Housing-to-Engine 45 N.m 33 lb ftOil Level Indicator Tube Bolt 20 N.m 15 lb ftOil Pan Baffle Bolt 8 N.m 71 lb inOil Pan Bolts 15 N.m 11 lb ftOil Pickup Tube bolts 8 N.m 71 lb inOil Pump Bolts 27 N.m 20 lb ftOxygen Sensors - Exhaust Manifold 50 N.m 37 lb ftPower Steering Pump Bolts 20 N.m 15 lb ftPower Steering Pump Pulley Bolt 20 N.m 15 lb ftRear Timing Belt Cover Bolt 8 N.m 71 lb ftRear Timing Belt Cover Threaded Pin 10 N.m 89 lb inSpark Plug 25 N.m 18 lb ftThermostat Housing Bolts 20 N.m 15 lb ftThrottle Body Nut 8 N.m 71 lb inTiming Belt Tensioner Bracket Bolt 40 N.m 30 lb ftTiming Belt Tensioner Fastening Nut 20 N.m 15 lb ftTorque Converter Bolts 65 N.m 48 lb ftTransaxle Mount Through Bolt 55 N.m 41 lb ftTransaxle-to-Oil Pan Bolts 65 N.m 48 lb ftUpper Bell Housing Bolts 65 N.m 48 lb ftUpper Pulley Bolt 40 N.m 30 lb ftVentilation Housing Bolts 8 N.m 71 lb inWater Pump Bolt 25 N.m 18 lb ftWater Pump Pulley Bolt 8 N.m 71 lb inWheel Bolts 125 N.m 92 lb ft

ApplicationService Limit

Metric EnglishCylinder Bore - Select Fit Designation Stamped on Block

(8) 85.975-85.985 mm 3.3848-3.3852 in

(99) 85.985-85.995 mm 3.3852-3.3856 in

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(00) 85.995-86.005 mm 3.3856-3.3860 in

(01) 86.005-86.015 mm 3.3860-3.3864 in

(02) 86.015-86.025 mm 3.3864-3.3868 in

(7 + 0.5) Oversize 86.465-86.475 mm 3.4041-3.4045 in

Maximum Out-of-Round 0.065 mm 0.0003 in

Taper 0.0065 mm 0.0003 in

Piston - Select Fit Designation Stamped on Top of Piston

(8) 85.940-85.950 mm 3.3834-3.3838 in

(99) 85.950-85.960 mm 3.3838-3.3842 in

(00) 85.960-85.970 mm 3.3842-3.3846 in

(01) 85.970-85.980 mm 3.3846-3.3850 in

(02) 85.980-85.990 mm 3.3850-3.3854 in

(7 + 0.5) Oversize 86.430-86.440 mm 3.4027-3.4031 in

Piston Bore Clearance 0.025-0.045 mm 0.0010-0.0018 in

Piston Pin Diameter 21 mm 0.8267 in

Clearance in Piston 0.003-0.008 mm 0.0001-0.0003 in

Piston Ring - Compression

Thickness 1.5 mm 0.0590 in

Ring Groove Clearance 0.02-0.04 mm 0.0008-0.0015 in

Ring Gap 0.30-0.50 mm 0.0118-0.0196 in

Piston Ring - Oil

Thickness 3.0 mm 0.1181 in

Ring Groove Clearance 0.01-0.03 mm 0.0004-0.0012 in

Ring Gap 0.40-1.40 mm 0.0157-0.0551 in

Piston Pin

Diameter 21 mm 0.8267 in

Clearance in Piston 0.001-0.015 mm 0.0001-0.0003 in

Crankshaft - Main Journal

Standard Size - Green 67.980-67.988 mm 2.6763-2.6766 in

Standard Size - Brown 67.988-67.996 mm 2.6766-2.6770 in

Undersize - 0.25 - Green/Blue 67.730-67.738 mm 2.6656-2.6668 in

Undersize - 0.25 - Brown/Blue 67.738-67.746 mm 2.668-2.6671 in

Undersize - 0.50 - Green/White 67.480-67.488 mm 2.666-2.6570 in

Undersize - 0.50 - Brown/Blue 67.488-67.496 mm 2.6570-2.6573 in

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Cylinder Head Specifications

Main Journal Maximum Out-of-Round 0.03 mm 0.0012 in

Crankshaft Bearing Clearance 0.014-0.043 mm 0.0006-0.0017 in

Crankshaft End Play 0.010-0.76 mm 0.0004-0.0300 in

Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 48.971-48.990 mm 1.927-1.928 in

Undersize - 0.25 48.721-48.740 mm 1.918-1.919 in

Undersize - 0.50 48.471-48.490 mm 1.908-1.909 in

Connecting Rod

Side Clearance 0.07-0.28 mm 0.0027-0.0110 in

Bearing Clearance 0.013-0.061 mm 0.0005-0.0024 in

Big End Diameter 52.000-52.012 mm 2.0472-2.0477 mm

MeasurementStandard Service Limit

Metric English Metric EnglishCompression (Hot)250 RPM (Open Throttle) 1310 kPa 190 psi min 1,241 kPa 180 psi minCylinder Leakage (Hot)689 kPa (100 psi) Input 69 kPa 10% max 10 psi max 138 kPa 15% max 20 psi maxCylinder HeadTotal Height 134.0 mm 5.276 in 133.9-134.1 mm 5.272-5.280 inMaximum Distortion (Length)

- -0.05/100 mm 0.0020/3.937 in

ValveLifter - - - -Face Angle - - - 45 degreesSeat Angle - - - 45 degreesSeat Width - - - -Intake 1.0-1.4 mm 0.0394-0.0551 in - -Exhaust 1.4-1.8 mm 0.0551-0.0709 in - -Valve Length - ProductionIntake 102.1 mm 4.016 in - -Exhaust 92.25 mm 3.632 in - -Valve Length - ServiceIntake 101.7 mm 4.0039 in - -Exhaust 91.8 mm 3.6141 in - -Valve Stem DiameterStandard (K) Intake 5.955-5.970 mm 0.2344-0.2350 in - -

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SEALERS, ADHESIVES, AND LUBRICANTS

Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants

Standard (K) Exhaust

5.945-5.960 mm 0.2341-0.2346 in - -

Oversize (K 1-0.075) Intake 6.030 mm 0.2374 in

- -

Oversize (K 1-0.075) Exhaust 6.020 mm 0.2370 in

- -

Valve Guide DiameterStandard (K) 6.000-6.012 mm 0.2362-0.2367 in - -Oversize (K 1-0.075) 6.075-6.090 mm 0.2392-0.2398 in - -Valve Guide Installed Height

13.7-14.0 mm 0.5394-0.5512 in - -

Stem ClearanceIntake 0.030-0.057 mm 0.0012-0.0022 in - -Exhaust 0.040-0.067 mm 0.0016-0.0026 in - -Valve HeightIntake 39.2 mm 1.543 in - -Exhaust 39.2 mm 1.543 in - -Intake and Exhaust Compressed at 252 N (56.6 lbs) 34 mm 1.338 in

- -

CamshaftExhaust Cam Lobe Lift Rise 8.66-8.74 mm 0.3409-0.344 in 8.61 mm 0.339 in minLifter Body Diameter 32.959-32.975 mm 1.2976-1.282 in 32.947 mm 1.297 in min

Lifter Body Clearance

0.025-0.066 mm 0.0010-0.0026 in 0.083 mm 0.003 in max

Journal Diameter 27.939-27.960 mm 1.099-1.101 in - -Bearing Clearance 0.040-0.082 mm 0.0015-0.0020 in - -End Play 0.04-0.144 mm 0.0016-0.0057 in - -Spark Plug

TypeBosch FLR-LTE, GM

P/N 90541059 -

Gap 0.9-1.1 mm 0.035-0.043 in - -Torque - - 25 N.m 19 lb ftOil Pressure - MinimumEngine Idle - at Normal Operating Temperature

- -110 kPa 16 psi

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COMPONENT LOCATOR

DISASSEMBLED VIEWS

Application Type of MaterialGM Part Number

United States Canada

Camshaft Bearing Engine Assembly Lubricant

1052367 992869

Camshaft Cover Sealant 12346286 10953472Camshaft Front Bearing Cap Sealant 1052942 10953466

Camshaft Lobes Engine Assembly Lubricant

1052367 992869

Connecting Rod BearingsEngine Assembly

Lubricant1052367 992869

Coolant Jacket Plugs Sealant 12346004 10953480Crankcase Vent Housing Sealant 1052942 10953466Crankshaft Bearing Bridge Adjusting Sleeves Thread Adhesive 12345493 10953488

Crankshaft Main BearingsEngine Assembly

Lubricant 1052367 992869

Crankshaft Fourth Main Bearing Cap Sealant 12346286 10953472Flywheel Bolts Thread Adhesive 12345493 10953488Intake Manifold Flange Bolts Thread Adhesive 12345382 10953489Oil Cooler Cover Sealant 12378521 88901148Oil Cooler Cover Bolts Thread Adhesive 12345382 10953489Oil Level Indicator Tube Bolt Thread Adhesive 12345493 10953488Oil Pan Sealant 1052942 10953466Oil Pan Bolts Thread Adhesive 21485278 10953480Oil Pump Bolts Thread Adhesive 21485278 10953480Oil Pump Pickup Brace Bolts Thread Adhesive 12345382 10953489Thermostat Housing Bolts Sealant 12346004 10953480Timing Belt Rear Cover Bolt Thread Adhesive 12345382 10953489Water Pump Pulley Bolts Thread Adhesive 12345382 10953489Water Pump Seal Silicone 12345579 1974984

Valve LifterEngine Assembly

Lubricant 1052367 992869

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Fig. 1: Front of Engine Disassembled View Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Callouts For Fig. 1 Callout Component Name

1 Timing Belt Front Cover Bolt2 Timing Belt Front Cover Seal3 Timing Belt4 Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket Bolt5 Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket, Includes 1-2 Idler Pulley and Tensioner6 Water Pump7 Timing Belt Rear Cover8 Camshaft Sprocket Bolt9 Camshaft Sprocket Washer10 Camshaft Sprocket11 3-4 Timing Belt Idler12 3-4 Timing Belt Idler Bolt13 Oil Pump Collar

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14 Timing Belt Rear Cover Bolt15 Water Pump Bolt16 Crankshaft Pulley17 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt18 Crankshaft Balancer19 Crankshaft Balancer Bolt20 Timing Belt Front Cover21 Water Pump Pulley22 Water Pump Pulley Bolts

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Fig. 2: Crankshaft/Pistons Disassembled ViewCourtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


1 Piston Pin Retaining Clip2 Piston Pin3 Upper Compression Ring4 Lower Compression Ring5 Oil Control Rings6 Connecting Rod7 Connecting Rod Bearing8 Connecting Rod Cap9 Connecting Rod Bolt10 Crankshaft Sensor11 Flywheel Bolt12 Flywheel13 Crankshaft Sensor Reluctor Ring Bolt14 Crankshaft Sensor Reluctor Ring15 Crankshaft Lower Main Bearings16 Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolt17 Crankshaft Main Bearing Caps18 Crankshaft Bearing Bridge19 Crankshaft Bearing Bridge Bolt20 Crankshaft Bearing Bridge Adjusting Sleeve21 Crankshaft22 Crankshaft Upper Main Bearings23 Left Knock Sensor

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Fig. 3: Manifold and Related Disassembled View

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Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


1 Fuel Injection Rail2 Fuel Injection Fuel Feed and Return Bolt3 Fuel Injector Fuel Feed and Return4 Intake Plenum Bolt Cap5 PCV Vent Tube Adapter Bolt6 PCV Vent Tube Adapter7 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve8 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Actuator9 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Bolt10 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Solenoid Valve Hose11 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve O-ring12 Intake Manifold Plenum Bolt13 PCV Vent Tube Adapter O-ring14 Idle Air Valve15 Intake Plenum16 Intake Manifold17 Intake Manifold Gasket18 Intake Manifold Flange19 Intake Manifold Flange Gasket20 Intake Manifold Flange Bolt21 Intake Manifold Bolt22 Intake Plenum O-ring23 Throttle Body Bolt24 Throttle Body25 Throttle Body O-ring26 Ignition Coil Cassette27 Left Exhaust Manifold

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Fig. 4: Cylinder Head and Components Disassembled View Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


1 Camshaft Bearing Cap2 Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolt3 Exhaust Camshaft4 Intake Camshaft

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5 Camshaft Cover Bolt6 Camshaft Cover7 Oil Fill Tube8 Oil Fill Cap O-ring9 Oil Fill Cap10 Camshaft Cover Gasket11 Camshaft Cover O-ring12 Left Cylinder Head13 Left Cylinder Head Gasket14 Valve15 Valve Spring Seat16 Valve Seal17 Valve Spring18 Valve Spring Cap19 Valve Spring Retaining Keys20 Valve Lifter21 Right Cylinder Head Gasket22 Camshaft Seal23 Right Cylinder Head24 Cylinder Head Bolt

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Fig. 5: Oil Pan and Delivery Components Disassembled View Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


1 Oil Cooler Inlet/Outlet Nuts2 Oil Cooler Pipe Seals3 Oil Cooler Line Banjo Fittings4 Oil Cooler Inlet Pipe5 Oil Cooler Outlet Pipe6 Oil Filter Adapter7 Oil Filter Bypass Valve8 Oil Filter Bypass Check Ball

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ENGINE IDENTIFICATION

9 Oil Filter Bypass Spring10 Oil Pan Baffle11 Oil Pan12 Oil Pump Gasket13 Oil Pump Pipe Plug14 Oil Intake Pipe O-ring15 Oil Intake Pipe16 Oil Intake Pipe Bolt17 Oil Pump Inlet Screen18 Oil Intake Pipe Bolt19 Oil Pump Collar20 Oil Pump21 Oil Pressure Relief Valve22 Oil Pressure Relief Valve Spring23 Oil Pressure Relief Valve Seal24 Oil Pressure Relief Valve Plug25 Oil Pressure Regulator Valve Spring26 Oil Pressure Regulator Valve27 Oil Pressure Regulator Valve Seal28 Oil Pressure Regulator Valve Plug29 Oil Cooler30 Oil Cooler Inlet/Outlet Seals31 Oil Cooler Cover32 Oil Cooler Cover Bolt

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Fig. 6: Locating Engine Identification Markings Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Derivative (2) is located on the lower right side of the engine block and is a nine digit number stamped or laser etched onto the engine at the vehicle assembly plant. If reading the identification number from the left, the following information can be obtained:

The first digit identifies the vehicle division.

The second digit identifies the model year.

The third digit identifies the assembly plant.

The fourth through ninth digits are the last six digits of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

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Engine displacement (1) is cast into the engine block under the starter motor.

DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION AND PROCEDURES

DIAGNOSTIC STARTING POINT - ENGINE MECHANICAL

Begin the system diagnosis by reviewing the Disassembled Views, Engine Component Description, Lubrication Description and the Drive Belt System Description. Reviewing the description and operation information will help you determine the correct symptom diagnostic procedure when a malfunction exists. Reviewing the description and operation information will also help you determine if the condition described by the customer is normal operation. Refer to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical in order to identify the correct procedure for diagnosing the system and where the procedure is located.

SYMPTOMS - ENGINE MECHANICAL

Strategy Based Diagnostics

1. Perform a Diagnostic Starting Point - Engine Mechanical before using the symptom tables, if applicable.

2. Review the system operations in order to familiarize yourself with the system functions. Refer to Disassembled Views, Engine Component Description, Lubrication Description and the Drive Belt System Description.

All diagnosis on a vehicle should follow a logical process. Strategy based diagnostics is a uniform approach for repairing all systems. The diagnostic flow may always be used in order to resolve a system problem. The diagnostic flow is the place to start when repairs are necessary. For a detailed explanation, refer to Strategy Based Diagnosis in General Information.

Visual/Physical Inspection

Inspect for aftermarket devices which could affect the operation of the Engine. Refer to Checking Aftermarket Accessories in Wiring Systems.

Inspect the easily accessible or visible system components for obvious damage or conditions which could cause the symptom.

Check for the correct oil level, proper oil viscosity, and correct filter application.

Verify the exact operating conditions under which the concern exists. Note factors such as engine RPM, ambient temperature, engine temperature, amount of engine warm-up time, and other specifics.

Compare the engine sounds - if applicable to a known good engine and make sure you are not trying to correct a normal condition.

Intermittent

Test the vehicle under the same conditions that the customer reported in order to verify the system is operating properly.

Symptom List

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Refer to a symptom diagnostic procedure from the following list in order to diagnose the symptom:

Base Engine Misfire without Internal Engine Noises

Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Internal Lower Engine Noises

Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Valve Train Noise

Base Engine Misfire with Coolant Consumption

Base Engine Misfire with Excessive Oil Consumption

Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds

Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed

Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed

Engine Noise Under Load

Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate

Engine Compression Test

Oil Consumption Diagnosis

Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing

Oil Leak Diagnosis

BASE ENGINE MISFIRE WITHOUT INTERNAL ENGINE NOISES

Base Engine Misfire without Internal Engine Noises Cause Correction

Abnormalities - severe cracking, bumps, or missing areas in the accessory drive belt Abnormalities in the accessory drive system and/or components may cause engine RPM variations and lead to a misfire DTC. A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition.

Replace the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement.

Worn, damaged, or mis-aligned accessory drive components or excessive pulley runout and may lead to a misfire DTC. A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition.

Inspect the components, repair or replace as required.

Improperly installed or damaged vacuum hoses Repair or replace as required.Improperly installed or damaged MAP sensor and/or seal The sealing grommet of the MAP sensor should not be torn or damaged

Repair or replace the MAP sensor as required.

Improperly installed or damaged EVAP purge solenoid and/or O-ring seal

Repair or replace the EVAP purge solenoid as required.

Restricted exhaust system A severe restriction in the exhaust flow can cause significant loss of engine performance and may set a DTC. Possible causes of restrictions include

Repair or replace as required.

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collapsed or dented pipes or plugged mufflers and/or catalytic converters.Excessively worn or mis-aligned timing belt Replace the timing belt and sprockets as required.Worn camshaft lobes Replace the camshaft or camshafts and SHLAs,

valve lifters.Excessive oil pressure A lubrication system with excessive oil pressure may lead to excessive valve lifter pump-up and loss of compression.

Perform an oil pressure test. Refer to Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing.

Repair or replace the oil pump as required.

Stuck valves Carbon buildup on the valve stem can cause the valve not to close properly.


Improper sealing between the intake manifold and cylinder heads, intake manifold and plenum duct, plenum duct and water crossover, water crossover and throttle body and/or pressure relief valve and intake manifold.

Replace the intake manifold, plenum duct, gaskets, cylinder heads, throttle body and/or pressure relief valve as required.

Faulty cylinder head gaskets and/or cracking or other damage to the cylinder heads and engine block cooling system passages. Refer to Diagnostic Starting Point - Engine Cooling in Engine Cooling. Coolant consumption may or may not cause the engine to overheat.

Inspect for spark plugs saturated by coolant. Refer to SPARK PLUGS in Service & Adjustment Specifications in Engine Performance.

Inspect the cylinder heads, engine block, and/or head gaskets.

Repair or replace as required. Loose or improperly installed engine flywheel or crankshaft balancer A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition.

Repair or replace the flywheel and/or balancer as required. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement or Crankshaft Balancer Replacement.

Worn Piston Rings Oil consumption may or may not cause the engine to misfire.

Inspect the spark plugs for oil deposits. Refer to SPARK PLUGS in Service & Adjustment Specifications in Engine Performance.

Inspect the cylinders for a loss of compression. Refer to Engine Compression Test.

Perform cylinder leak down and compression testing to identify the cause.

Repair or replace as required. A damaged crankshaft reluctor wheel A damaged crankshaft reluctor wheel can result in different symptoms depending on the severity and location of the damage.

Systems with SEVERE reluctor ring damage may exhibit periodic loss of crankshaft

Replace the crankshaft as required.

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BASE ENGINE MISFIRE WITH ABNORMAL INTERNAL LOWER ENGINE NOISES

Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Internal Lower Engine Noises

BASE ENGINE MISFIRE WITH ABNORMAL VALVE TRAIN NOISE

Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Valve Train Noise

position, stop delivering a signal, and then re-sync the crankshaft position.

Systems with SLIGHT reluctor ring damage may exhibit no loss of crankshaft position and no misfire may occur. However, a P0300 DTC may be set.

Cause CorrectionAbnormalities - severe cracking, bumps or missing areas- in the accessory drive belt Abnormalities in the accessory drive system and/or components may cause engine RPM variations, noises similar to a faulty lower engine and also lead to a misfire condition. A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition.

Replace the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement.

Worn, damaged, or mis-aligned accessory drive components or excessive pulley runout A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition.

Inspect the components, repair or replace as required.

Loose or improperly installed engine flywheel or crankshaft balancer A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition.

Repair or replace the engine flywheel and/or crankshaft balancer as required. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement or Crankshaft Balancer Replacement.

Worn or Broken Piston Rings Oil consumption may or may not cause the engine to misfire.



Perform cylinder leak down and compression testing to determine the cause.

Repair or replace as required. Worn Crankshaft Thrust Bearings Severely worn thrust surfaces on the crankshaft and/or thrust bearing may permit fore and aft movement of the crankshaft and create a DTC without an actual misfire condition.

Replace the crankshaft and bearings as required.

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BASE ENGINE MISFIRE WITH COOLANT CONSUMPTION

Base Engine Misfire with Coolant Consumption

BASE ENGINE MISFIRE WITH EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

Base Engine Misfire with Excessive Oil Consumption

ENGINE NOISE ON START-UP, BUT ONLY LASTING A FEW SECONDS

Cause CorrectionExcessively worn or mis-aligned timing belt Replace the timing belt as required.Worn camshaft lobes Replace the camshaft or camshafts and SHLAs -

valve lifters.Sticking SHLAs - valve lifters Replace the SHLAs as required.Stuck valves Carbon buildup on the valve stem can cause the valve not to close properly.


Cause CorrectionFaulty cylinder head gaskets and/or cracking or other damage to the cylinder heads and engine block cooling system passages. Refer to Diagnostic Starting Point - Engine Cooling in Engine Cooling. Coolant consumption may or may not cause the engine to overheat.

Inspect for spark plugs saturated by coolant. Refer to SPARK PLUGS in Service & Adjustment Specifications in Engine Performance.

Perform a cylinder leak down test.

Inspect the cylinder heads and engine block for damage to the coolant passages and/or a faulty head gasket.


Cause CorrectionWorn valves, valve guides and/or valve stem oil seals


Repair or replace as required. Worn Piston Rings Oil consumption may or may not cause the engine to misfire.



Perform cylinder leak down and compression testing to determine the cause.


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Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds

UPPER ENGINE NOISE, REGARDLESS OF ENGINE SPEED

Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed

Cause CorrectionIncorrect oil filter without anti-drainback feature Install the correct oil filter.Incorrect oil viscosity Drain the engine oil and replace with the correct

viscosity oil.Damaged or faulty oil filter by-pass valve Inspect the oil filter by-pass valve for proper

operation.

Repair or replace as required. High SHLA, valve lifter, leak down rate Replace the SHLA, valve lifters, as required.Worn crankshaft thrust bearing Inspect the thrust bearing and crankshaft.


Cause CorrectionLow oil pressure Perform an oil pressure test. Refer to Oil

Pressure Diagnosis and Testing.

Repair or replace as required. Improper lubrication to the valve lifters Inspect the following components, and repair or

replace as required:

The SHLA - valve lifter

The oil filter bypass valve

The oil pump and pump screen

The cylinder head oil galleries

The engine block oil galleries Worn or dirty SHLAs, valve lifters Replace the SHLAs - valve lifters.Stretched or broken timing belt and/or damaged sprocket teeth

Replace the timing belt and sprockets.

Worn timing belt tensioner or tensioners Replace the timing belt tensioner or tensioners as required.

Worn engine camshaft lobes Inspect the engine camshaft lobes.

Replace the camshaft or camshafts and SHLAs, valve lifters, as required.

Worn valve guides or valve stems Inspect the following components, and repair as required:

The valves

The valve guides Stuck Valves Inspect the following components, and repair as

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LOWER ENGINE NOISE, REGARDLESS OF ENGINE SPEED

Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed

Carbon on the valve stem or valve seat may cause the valve to stay open

required:

The valves

The valve guides

Cause CorrectionWorn accessory drive components Abnormalities such as severe cracking, bumps or missing areas in the accessory drive belt and/or misalignment of system components.

Inspect the accessory drive system.


Detonation or spark knock Verify the correct operation of the ignition controls system. Refer to DETONATION/SPARK KNOCK in Troubleshooting - No Codes in Engine Performance.

Low oil pressure Perform an oil pressure test. Refer to Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing.

Repair or replace damaged components as required.

Loose or damaged crankshaft balancer Inspect the crankshaft balancer.

Repair or replace as required. Loose torque converter bolts Inspect the torque converter bolts and engine

flywheel.

Repair or replace as required. Loose or damaged engine flywheel Repair or replace the engine flywheel.Oil pump screen loose, damaged or restricted Inspect the oil pump screen.

Repair or replace as required. Incorrect piston, piston pin and connecting rod installation Pistons must be installed with the mark or dimple on the top of the piston facing the front of the engine. Piston pins must be centered in the connecting rod pin bore.

Verify the pistons, piston pins and connecting rods are installed correctly.

Repair as required.

Excessive crankshaft bearing clearance Inspect the following components, and repair as required:

The crankshaft bearings

The crankshaft journals Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance Inspect the following components, and repair as

required:

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ENGINE NOISE UNDER LOAD

Engine Noise Under Load

ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK - CRANKSHAFT WILL NOT ROTATE

The connecting rod bearings

The connecting rods

The crankshaft

The crankshaft journals Excessive piston-to-cylinder bore clearance Inspect the piston and cylinder bore.

Repair as required. Excessive piston pin-to-bore clearance Inspect the piston, piston pin, and the

connecting rod.


Cause CorrectionDetonation or spark knock Verify the correct operation of the ignition controls.

Refer to DETONATION/SPARK KNOCK in Troubleshooting - No Codes in Engine Performance.

Low oil pressure Perform an oil pressure test. Refer to Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing.

Repair or replace as required. Loose torque converter bolts Inspect the torque converter bolts and engine

flywheel.

Repair as required. Cracked engine flywheel Inspect the engine flywheel and bolts.

Repair as required. Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance Inspect the following components, and repair as

required:

The connecting rod bearings

The connecting rods

The crankshaft Excessive crankshaft bearing clearance Inspect the following components, and repair as

required:

The crankshaft bearings

The crankshaft journals

The cylinder block crankshaft bearing bore

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Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not RotateCause Correction

Seized accessory drive system component 1. Remove accessory drive belt or drive belts.

2. Rotate crankshaft by hand at the crankshaft balancer or engine flywheel location.

3. Repair or replace as required. Hydraulically locked cylinder

Coolant/Antifreeze in cylinder

Oil in cylinder

Fuel in cylinder

1. Remove spark plugs and check for fluid.

2. Inspect for broken head gasket or gaskets.

3. Inspect for cracked engine block or cylinder head.

4. Inspect for a sticking fuel injector.

5. Repair or replace as required. Seized or broken camshaft 1. Inspect camshaft or camshafts.

2. Inspect cylinder head camshaft journals for damage.

3. Repair as required. Seized or broken camshaft timing components 1. Inspect the following sprockets:

Crankshaft sprocket

Exhaust sprockets

Intake sprockets

2. Inspect the timing belt.

3. Inspect the following tensioners:

Timing belt idler pulley for camshaft gears 1 and 2

Timing belt idler pulley for camshaft gears 3 and 4

Timing belt tensioner

4. Repair as required. Seized or broken valve train components 1. Inspect lifters.

2. Inspect valves.

3. Inspect cams.

4. Repair as required. Seized automatic transmission torque converter 1. Remove the torque converter bolts.

2. Rotate crankshaft by hand at the crankshaft balancer or engine flywheel location.

3. Repair or replace as required. Seized manual transmission 1. Disengage the clutch.

2. Rotate crankshaft by hand at the crankshaft

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COOLANT IN COMBUSTION CHAMBER

Coolant in Combustion Chamber

balancer or engine flywheel location.

3. Repair or replace as required. Material in cylinder

Broken valve

Piston material

Foreign material

1. Inspect cylinder for damaged components and/or foreign materials.

2. Repair or replace as required.

Seized crankshaft or connecting rod bearings 1. Inspect crankshaft and connecting rod bearings.

2. Repair as required. Bent or broken connecting rod 1. Inspect connecting rods.

2. Repair as required. Broken crankshaft 1. Inspect crankshaft.

2. Repair as required.

Cause CorrectionDEFINITION: Excessive white smoke and/or coolant type odor coming from the exhaust pipe may indicate coolant in the combustion chamber. Low coolant levels, an inoperative cooling fan, or a faulty thermostat may lead to an "overtemperature" condition which may cause engine component damage.

1. A slower than normal cranking speed may indicate coolant entering the combustion chamber. Refer to Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate.

2. Remove the spark plugs and inspect for spark plugs saturated by coolant or coolant in the cylinder bore.

3. Inspect by performing a cylinder leak-down test. During this test, excessive air bubbles within the coolant may indicate a faulty gasket or damaged component.

4. Inspect by performing a cylinder compression test. Two cylinders "side-by-side" on the engine block, with low compression, may indicate a failed cylinder head gasket. Refer to Engine Compression Test.

Cracked intake manifold or failed gasket Replace the components as required.Faulty cylinder head gasket Replace the head gasket and components as

required. Refer to Cylinder Head Cleaning and Inspection and Cylinder Head Replacement (Front) or Cylinder Head Replacement (Rear).

Warped cylinder head Machine the cylinder head to the proper flatness, if applicable and replace the cylinder head gasket. Refer to Cylinder Head Cleaning and Inspection.

Cracked cylinder head Replace the cylinder head and gasket.Cracked cylinder liner or engine block Replace the components as required.

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COOLANT IN ENGINE OIL

Coolant in Engine Oil

ENGINE COMPRESSION TEST

Tools Required

SA9127E Gage Bar Set

If there is a lack of power, excessive oil consumption, or poor fuel economy, etc., measure the compression pressure.

Cylinder head or engine block porosity Replace the components as required.

Cause CorrectionDEFINITION: Foamy or discolored oil or an engine oil "overfill" condition may indicate coolant entering the engine crankcase. Low coolant levels, an inoperative cooling fan, or a faulty thermostat may lead to an "overtemperature" condition which may cause engine component damage. Contaminated engine oil and oil filter should be changed.

1. Inspect the oil for excessive foaming or an overfill condition. Oil diluted by coolant may not properly lubricate the crankshaft bearings and may lead to component damage. Refer to Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed.

2. Inspect by performing a cylinder leak-down test. During this test, excessive air bubbles within the cooling system may indicate a faulty gasket or damaged component.

3. Inspect by performing a cylinder compression test. Two cylinders "side-by-side" on the engine block with low compression may indicate a failed cylinder head gasket. Refer to Engine Compression Test.

Faulty external engine oil cooler Replace the components as required.Faulty cylinder head gasket Replace the head gasket and components as

required. Refer to Cylinder Head Cleaning and Inspection and Cylinder Head Replacement (Front) or Cylinder Head Replacement (Rear).

Warped cylinder head Machine the cylinder head to proper flatness, if applicable, and replace the cylinder head gasket. Refer to Cylinder Head Cleaning and Inspection.

Cracked cylinder head Replace the cylinder head and gasket.Cracked cylinder liner or engine block Replace the components as required.Cylinder head, block, or manifold porosity Replace the components as required.

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Fig. 7: Removing & Installing Ignition Control Modules Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

2. Shut the engine OFF and disconnect the ignition module wiring harness plugs.

3. Remove the ignition modules. Refer to ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODULE in Removal and Installation in Engine Performance.

4. Remove all 6 spark plugs.

CAUTION: Compression checks must be performed with the vehicle in park or neutral and the parking brake applied.

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5. Insert the SA9127E into the spark plug hole.

6. Fully open the throttle.

7. While cranking the engine, measure the compression. The cylinder should puff or the compression gage needle should bounce a minimum of 10 times.

8. Repeat the previous steps for each cylinder.

IMPORTANT: Always use a fully charged battery to obtain engine revolutions of a 250 RPM minimum. Do not crank the engine for more than 15 seconds.

IMPORTANT: All measurements must be completed in as short a time as possible. Check low cylinders and make sure a minimum of 10 puffs are obtained prior to reading the gage.

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Fig. 8: 3.0L RPO Code L81 V6 Engine Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Normal compression: Builds up quickly and evenly to specification in each cylinder.

Low compression: Damaged piston, rings, valves, or head gasket.

IMPORTANT: No compression in 2 or more cylinders is an indication of damaged timing chain sprockets, camshafts, and crankshaft key or pins.

IMPORTANT: The minimum compression in any one cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest cylinder. No cylinder should read less than 690 kPa (100 psi).

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High compression: Carbon on pistons/combustion chamber.

Fig. 9: Adding Engine Oil To Cylinder Through Spark Plug Hole Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

9. If the cylinder compression in one or more cylinders is low, pour a small amount (1 teaspoon) of engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

IMPORTANT: A cylinder leakage test can be performed to further determine the location of the compression leakage if one or more cylinders are extremely low.

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Fig. 10: Placing Shop Towel Over Spark Plug Holes Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

10. Place a shop towel over the plug holes to capture any oil mist/spray.

11. Crank the engine over for a few seconds without the compression gage or spark plugs installed.

12. Repeat previous steps 4-7 and measure the compression.

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Fig. 11: Checking Piston Rings & Piston Ring Land Wear Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

13. If adding oil increases the compression readings the piston rings are leaking.

Compression is low on the first stroke (first gage puff) and tends to build up on following strokes, but does not reach normal compression pressure. The compression Improves considerably with oil. Inspect for worn or broken rings and piston ring land wear (pound out).

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Fig. 12: Fixed Timing Chain Guide Access Plug Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

14. If adding oil does not increase the compression:

Valves or head gasket leaking: Compression is low on the first stroke. Compression does not tend to build up on the following strokes. Compression does not improve with adding oil to the cylinder.

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Fig. 13: Checking Head Gasket If Two Adjacent Cylinders Have Lower Than Normal Compression Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Head gasket: Two adjacent cylinders have lower than normal compression and adding oil to the cylinder does not improve compression.

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15. Remove the compression tester and install the spark plugs.

Tighten: Tighten the spark plugs to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

16. Install the ignition module.

Tighten: Tighten the ignition module bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

NOTE: Refer to FASTENER NOTICE in Cautions and Notices.

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17. Connect the ignition module electrical connection.

CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST

Tools Required


If there is a lack of power, excessive oil consumption, or poor fuel economy, etc., cylinder leakage can be measured.


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1. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

2. Disconnect both ignition module connectors.

3. Remove the ignition modules and remove the plugs.

4. Rotate the crankshaft so each cylinder to be checked is at TDC. Timing marks are located on the front cover and vibration damper assembly for TDC verification. Access to the front crankshaft damper bolt can be achieved from the top of the vehicle with an open end wrench. A 3.175 mm (1/8 in) brass rod can be inserted through the spark plug hole to determine piston location relative to TDC.

CAUTION: Cylinder leakage checks must be performed with the vehicle in park or neutral and the parking brake applied.

IMPORTANT: The piston must be located at exactly top dead center (TDC) or the crankshaft will rotate when air pressure is applied.

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Fig. 16: Connecting Special Tools To Perform Cylinder Leakage Test Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Attach an air supply to the SA9127E . The desired regulator In minimum pressure is 861 kPa (125 psi). The maximum is 1 034 kPa (150 psi).

6. Insert the cylinder leakage adapter in the spark plug hole with the piston at TDC.

NOTE: Air supply for the tester should be clean and free from oil, moisture, and/or foreign particles that might be injected into the regulator or orifice chamber. Foreign debris can cause improper operation and erroneous readings.

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7. Close the gate valve and adjust the regulator pressure to 689 kPa (100 psi).

8. Open the gate valve. Observe the crankshaft during this operation.

Fig. 17: Listening For Escaping Air At Throttle Body Air Inlet, Oil Fill Cap & Exhaust OutletCourtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Allow 60 seconds for the air pressure in the cylinder to stabilize. Observe the cylinder pressure gage and record the pressure.

IMPORTANT: If the crankshaft rotates, the piston was not at TDC. The crankshaft will have to be relocated at TDC.

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2. Listen for escaping air at the throttle body air inlet, oil fill cap, and exhaust outlet.

3. Remove the coolant bottle pressure cap and look for bubbles.


9. Repeat the previous steps on other cylinders. Record the readings.

Normal Cylinder Leakage: 10 percent - 69 kPa (10 psi)

IMPORTANT: Make sure all cylinder leakage adapter fittings are tight and the piston is at TDC or incorrect readings will be obtained. Check the lower cylinders.

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Maximum Leakage: 20 percent - 138 kPa (20 psi)

Difference Between Cylinders: 5 percent - 34 kPa (5 psi)

10. Remove the cylinder leakage tester and install the spark plugs.

Tighten: Tighten the spark plugs to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

11. Install the ignition modules.

Tighten: Tighten the ignition module bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

12. Connect the ignition module harness plugs.

OIL CONSUMPTION DIAGNOSIS

Excessive oil consumption (not due to leaks) is the use of 0.95L (1 qt) or more of engine oil within 3200 kilometers (2,000 miles). The causes of excessive oil consumption include the following conditions:

External oil leaks

Tighten bolts and/or replace gaskets and oil seals as necessary.

Incorrect oil level or improper reading of oil level indicator

With the vehicle on a level surface, allow adequate drain down time and check for the correct oil level.

Improper oil viscosity

Use recommended SAE viscosity for the prevailing temperatures.

Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage

Crankcase ventilation system restrictions or malfunctioning components

Valve guides and/or valve stem oil seals worn, or the seal omitted

Ream guides and install oversize service valves and/or new valve stem oil seals.

Piston rings broken, improperly installed, worn, or not seated properly

Allow adequate time for rings to seat. Replace broken or worn rings as necessary.

Piston improperly installed or misfitted

OIL PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING


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With the vehicle on a level surface, allow adequate drain down time (2-3 minutes) and measure for a low oil level.

Add the recommended grade engine oil and fill the crankcase until the oil level measures full on the oil level indicator.

Run the engine and verify low or no oil pressure on the vehicle gage or light.

Listen for a noisy valve train or a knocking noise.

Inspect for the following:

Oil diluted by moisture or unburned fuel mixtures

Improper oil viscosity for the expected temperature

Incorrect or malfunctioning oil pressure sender

Incorrect or malfunctioning oil pressure gage

Plugged oil filter

Malfunctioning oil bypass valve

Remove the oil pressure sender or another engine block oil gallery plug.

Install a oil pressure gage and measure the engine oil pressure.

Compare the readings to specifications. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.

If the engine oil pressure is below specifications, inspect the engine for one or more of the following:

Oil pump worn or dirty

Refer to Oil Pump Inspection.

Oil pump-to-engine front cover bolts loose

Refer to Oil Pump Assemble.

Oil pump screen loose, plugged, or damaged

Oil pump screen O-ring seal missing or damaged

Malfunctioning oil pump pressure regulator valve

Excessive bearing clearance

Refer to Crankshaft and Bearings Cleaning and Inspection.

Cracked, porous or restricted oil galleries

Oil gallery plugs missing or incorrectly installed

Broken lash adjusters

CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM INSPECTION/DIAGNOSIS

Tools Required


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High crankcase pressure indicates an excessive amount of air passing between the rings and cylinder walls into the crankcase. A loss of engine lubricating oil into the air intake tube/filter housing or out the dipstick hole is indicative of excessive crankcase pressure. High negative pressure or vacuum can be caused by a plugged air filter element or restricted air intake.

Test method:

1. Remove the dipstick and connect a 0-15 kPa gage (0-16 in H2O) manometer or magnahelix in the SA9127E Gage Bar Set to the dipstick tube.

2. Operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and observe the crankcase pressure with engine at 4,000 RPM.

3. The crankcase pressure should not exceed:

Crankcase Pressure (New Engine)

Positive: 1 kPa (4 in) H2O Max.

Negative: 3 kPa (12 in) H2O Max.

Crankcase Pressure (Used Engine)

Positive: 2.5 kPa (10 in) H2O Max.

Negative: 3.5 kPa (14 in) H2O Max.

4. If the crankcase pressure exceeds specifications, ensure the PCV system is functioning properly.

Positive Crank Case Ventilation (PCV) System

Always Perform a Visual Check of the PCV System:

Properly mounted PCV valve, firmly seated in the grommet on rocker arm cover

PCV Hose, grommet, fresh air hose, and clamps in place, no damage to PCV hose, rocker arm cover grommet, fresh air hose. Ensure the clamps are on tight.

Crankcase Ventilation System Inspection/Diagnosis

CAUTION: The crankcase pressure check must be performed with the vehicle in park or neutral and the parking brake applied.

IMPORTANT: It may be necessary to complete a compression and cylinder leakage check for evaluation of piston rings and cylinder walls when there is high, positive crankcase pressure. Low, negative crankcase pressure indicates a possible restricted air intake system.

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Rough Idle, Stalling or Slow Idle 1. Repair or replace hoses as

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Functional Check

If engine is idling rough, check for a clogged PCV valve or hose. Check the PCV valve identification number to be sure the correct valve is installed. Replace as required.

Use the following procedure to determine if the PCV valve is functioning properly:

1. Remove PCV valve from cam cover grommet.

2. Run engine at idle.

3. Place your thumb over end of PCV valve to check for strong vacuum signal. If there is no vacuum present, check for clogged hose, plugged valve or plugged intake manifold port. Replace any clogged components or clean out plugged port.

4. Turn off engine and remove PCV valve from hose. Shake valve and listen for the plugger to rattle inside the valve. If valve does not rattle, replace valve.

Other Crankcase Ventilation System Faults

If there is evidence of engine oil in the throttle body or air cleaner and all the PCV components appear and function properly it may indicate excessive crankcase pressure.

OIL LEAK DIAGNOSIS

Tool Required

J 39400 Leak Detector

Most oil leaks are easily located by visual inspection and repaired by replacing and/or repairing the necessary parts.

Use the following steps in order to find the leak:

1. Identify the fluid. Determine whether it is engine oil, automatic transmission fluid, or power steering fluid.

2. From what point is the fluid leaking? After running the vehicle at normal operating temperature, park the vehicle over a large sheet of paper. After a few minutes, you should be able to find the approximate location of the leak by the drippings on the paper.

3. Visually check around the suspected component. Check around the gasket mating surfaces for leaks. A mirror is useful for finding leaks in hard-to-reach areas.

4. If the leak still cannot be found, it may be necessary to clean the suspected area with a degreaser, steam or

Speed, Oil Leaks, Oil in Throttle Body/Plenum, or Sludge in Engine.

1. Clogged hose. necessary.

2. Clogged PCV valve. 2. Replace PCV valve.

Rough Idle, Stalling, or High Idle Speed.

1. Leaking hose. 1. Replace hose.2. Leaking PCV valve. 2. Replace PCV valve.

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spray solvent. Clean the area well, then dry the area. Operate the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and varying speeds. After operating the vehicle, visually check the suspected component. If you still cannot locate the leak, try using the powder or black light-and-dye method.

Perform the following steps in order to use the black light-and-dye method:

1. Pour specified amount of dye into the leaking component system.

2. Operate the vehicle under normal operating conditions as directed by the J 39400 .

3. Direct the light toward the suspect area. The dyed fluid will appear as a yellow path leading to the source. See the J 39400 kit directions for the color of the fluid and the dye mix.

Perform the following steps in order to perform the powder method:

1. Clean the suspected area.

2. Apply an aerosol-type powder - such as foot powder to the suspected area.

3. Operate the vehicle under normal operating conditions.

4. Visually inspect the suspected component. You should be able to trace the leak path over the white powder surface to the source.

Repairing the Leak

Once the origin of the leak has been pinpointed and traced back to its source, the cause of the leak must be determined in order for it to be repaired properly. If a gasket is replaced, but the sealing surface is damaged, the new gasket will not repair the leak. The surface must be repaired or replaced. Before attempting to repair a leak, be sure that the gasket and sealing surfaces are correct.

Perform the following steps in order to check for gasket leaks:

1. Inspect the fluid level/pressure to see if it is too high.

2. Check the crankcase ventilation system for restrictions or malfunctioning components.

3. Inspect for improperly tightened fasteners or dirty/damaged threads.

4. Look for warped flanges or sealing surfaces.

5. Check for scratches, burrs, or other damage to the sealing surface.

6. Look for a damaged or worn gasket.

7. Check for cracking or porosity of the component.

8. Check for use of an improper sealant used - where applicable.

Perform the following steps in order to check for seal leaks:

1. Inspect the fluid level/pressure to see if it is too high.

2. Check the crankcase ventilation system for restrictions or malfunctioning components.

3. Check for a damaged O-ring seal bore - scratched, burred or nicked.

4. Look for a damaged or worn oil seal.

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5. Check for improper component installation.

6. Look for cracks in the component.

7. Inspect the shaft surface for scratches, nicks, or damage.

8. Check for a loose or worn bearing which may lead to premature oil seal wear.

DRIVE BELT CHIRPING DIAGNOSIS

Diagnostic Aids

The symptom may be intermittent due to moisture on the drive belt or the pulleys. It may be necessary to spray a small amount of water on the drive belt in order to duplicate the customers concern. If spraying water on the drive belt duplicates the symptom, cleaning the belt pulleys may be the probable solution.

A loose or improper installation of a body component, a suspension component, or other items of the vehicle may cause the chirping noise.

Test Description

The numbers below refer to the step number on the diagnostic table.

2: The noise may not be engine related. This step is to verify that the engine is making the noise. If the engine is not making the noise do not proceed further with this table.

3: The noise may be an internal engine noise. Removing the drive belt and operating the engine for a brief period will verify the noise is related to the drive belt. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.

4: Inspect all drive belt pulleys for pilling. Pilling is the small balls or pills or it can be strings in the drive belt grooves from the accumulation of rubber dust.

6: Misalignment of the pulleys may be caused from improper mounting of the accessory drive component, incorrect installation of the accessory drive component pulley, or the pulley bent inward or outward from a previous repair. Test for a misalign pulley using a straight edge in the pulley grooves across 2 or 3 pulleys. If a misalign pulley is found refer to that accessory drive component for the proper installation procedure for that pulley.

10: Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a wrong bolt, nut, spacer, or washer was installed.

12: Inspecting the pulleys for being bent should include inspecting for a dent or other damage to the pulleys that would prevent the drive belt from not seating properly in all of the pulley grooves or on the smooth surface of a pulley when the back side of the belt is used to drive the pulley.

14: Replacing the drive belt when it is not damaged or there is not excessive pilling will only be a temporary repair.

Drive Belt Chirping Diagnosis Step Action Yes No

NOTE:

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DEFINITION: The following items are indications of chirping:

A high pitched noise that is heard once per revolution of the drive belt or a pulley.

It usually occurs on cold damp mornings.

Refer to BELT DRESSING NOTICE in Cautions and Notices.

1Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? Go to Step 2

Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical

2 Verify that there is a chirping noise. Does the engine make the chirping noise? Go to Step 3

Go to Diagnostic Aids

3

1. Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement.

2. Operate the engine for no longer than 30 to 40 seconds.

Does the chirping noise still exist?

Go to Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds , Upper Engine

Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed ,

Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , or Engine Noise

Under Load Go to Step 4

4 Inspect for severe pilling exceeding 1/3 of the belt groove depth. Does the belt grooves have pilling? Go to Step 5 Go to Step 6

5Clean the drive belt pulleys with a suitable wire brush.Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 6

6 Inspect for misalignment of the pulleys. Are any of the pulleys misaligned? Go to Step 7 Go to Step 8

7Replace or repair any misaligned pulleys. Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 8

8Inspect for bent or cracked brackets. Did you find any bent or cracked brackets? Go to Step 9 Go to Step 10

9Replace any bent or cracked brackets. Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 10

10 Inspect for improper, loose or missing fasteners. Did you find the condition? Go to Step 11 Go to Step 12

11Tighten any loose fasteners. Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications. Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 12

12 Inspect for a bent pulley. Did you find the condition? Go to Step 13 Go to Step 14

13Replace the bent pulley. Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 14

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DRIVE BELT SQUEAL DIAGNOSIS

Diagnostic Aids

A loose or improper installation of a body component, a suspension component, or other items of the vehicle may cause the squeal noise.

If the noise is intermittent, verify the accessory drive components by varying their loads making sure they are operated to their maximum capacity. An overcharged A/C system, power steering system with a pinched hose or wrong fluid, or a generator failing are suggested items to inspect.

Test Description

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

2: The noise may not be engine related. This step is to verify that the engine is making the noise. If the engine is not making the noise do not proceed further with this table.

3: The noise may be an internal engine noise. Removing the drive belt and operating the engine for a brief period will verify the squeal noise is the drive belt or an accessory drive component. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.

4: This test is to verify that an accessory drive component does not have a seized bearing. With the belt removed, test the bearings in the accessory drive components for turning smoothly. Also test the accessory drive components with the engine operating by varying the load on the components to verify that the components operate properly.

5: This test is to verify that the drive belt tensioner operates properly. If the drive belt tensioner is not operating properly, proper belt tension may not be achieved to keep the drive belt from slipping which could cause a squeal noise.

6: This test is to verify that the drive belt is not too long, which would prevent the drive belt tensioner from working properly. Also if an incorrect length drive belt was installed, it may not be routed properly and may be turning an accessory drive component in the wrong direction.

7: Misalignment of the pulleys may be caused from improper mounting of the accessory drive component, incorrect installation of the accessory drive component pulley, or the pulley bent inward or outward from a previous repair. Test for a misalign pulley using a straight edge in the pulley grooves across two or three pulleys. If a misalign pulley is found refer to that accessory drive component for the proper installation procedure for that pulley.

8: This test is to verify that the pulleys are the correct diameter or width. Using a known good vehicle compare the pulley sizes.

14 Replace the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 15


15Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? System OK Go to Step 3

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Drive Belt Squeal Diagnosis

DRIVE BELT WHINE DIAGNOSIS

Diagnostic Aids

The drive belt will not cause the whine noise.

If the whine noise is intermittent, verify the accessory drive components by varying their loads making sure

Step Action Yes No

DEFINITION: The following items are indications of drive belt squeal:

A loud screeching noise that is caused by a slipping drive belt.

The noise occurs when a heavy load is applied to the drive belt, such as an air conditioning compressor engagement snapping the throttle, or slipping on a seized pulley or a faulty accessory drive component.

NOTE:

Refer toBELT DRESSING NOTICE in Cautions and Notices.

1Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? Go to Step 2

Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical

2 Verify that there is a squeal noise. Does the engine make the squeal noise? Go to Step 3


3



Does the noise still exist?Go to Engine Noise

Diagnosis Go to Step 4

4 Inspect for an accessory drive component seized bearing or a faulty accessory drive component. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 9 Go to Step 5

5 Test the drive belt tensioner for proper operation. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 9 Go to Step 6

6 Inspect for the correct drive belt length. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 9 Go to Step 7

7 Inspect for misalignment of a pulley. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 9 Go to Step 8

8 Inspect for the correct pulley size. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 9


9 Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? System OK Go to Step 3

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they are operated to their maximum capacity. Such items but not limited to may be an A/C system overcharged, the power steering system restricted or the wrong fluid, or the generator failing.

Test Description


3: This test is to verify that the noise is being caused by the drive belt or the accessory drive components. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.

4: The inspection should include checking the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt idler pulley bearings. The drive belt may have to be installed and the accessory drive components operated separately by varying their loads. Refer to the suspected accessory drive component for the proper inspection and replacement procedure.

Drive Belt Whine Diagnosis

DRIVE BELT RUMBLING DIAGNOSIS

Step Action Yes No

DEFINITION: A high pitched continuous noise that may be caused by an accessory drive component failed bearing.

NOTE:


1Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections?

Go to Step 2

Go to Symptoms -Engine

Mechanical

2 Verify that there is a whine noise. Does the engine make the whine noise? Go to Step 3


3



Does the whine noise still exist?

Go to Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few

Seconds , Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of

Engine Speed , Lower Engine

Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , or Engine Noise


4 Inspect for a failed accessory drive component bearing. Did you find and repair the condition? Go to Step 5


5Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? System OK -

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Diagnostic Aids

Vibration from the engine operating may cause a body component or another part of the vehicle to make rumbling noise.

The drive belt may have a condition that can not be seen or felt. Sometimes replacing the drive belt may be the only repair for the symptom.

If replacing the drive belt, completing the diagnostic table, and the noise is only heard when the drive belt is installed, there might be an accessory drive component with a failure. Varying the load on the different accessory drive components may aid in identifying which component is causing the rumbling noise.

Test Description


2: This test is to verify that the symptom is present during diagnosing. Other vehicle components may cause a similar symptom.

3: This test is to verify that the drive belt is causing the rumbling noise. Rumbling noise may be confused with an internal engine noise due to the similarity in the description. Remove only one drive belt at a time if the vehicle has multiple drive belts. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.

4: Inspecting the drive belt is to ensure that it is not causing a the noise. Small cracks across the ribs of the drive belt will not cause the noise. Belt separation is identified by the plys of the belt separating and may be seen at the edge of the belt our felt as a lump in the belt.

5: Small amounts of pilling is normal condition and acceptable. When the pilling is severe the drive belt does not have a smooth surface for proper operation.

Drive Belt Rumbling Diagnosis Step Action Yes No

DEFINITION:

A low pitch tapping, knocking, or thumping noise heard at or just above idle.

Heard once per revolution of the drive belt or a pulley.

Rumbling may be caused from:

Pilling, the accumulation of rubber dust that forms small balls or strings in the drive belt pulley groove

The separation of the drive belt

A damaged drive belt

NOTE:


Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical Go to Symptoms -

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DRIVE BELT VIBRATION DIAGNOSIS

Diagnostic Aids

The accessory drive components can have an affect on engine vibration. Such as but not limited to the A/C system over charged, the power steering system restricted or the incorrect fluid, or an extra load on the generator. To help identify an intermittent or an improper condition, vary the loads on the accessory drive components.

Test Description

1operation and perform the necessary inspections?

Go to Step 2 Engine

Mechanical

2 Verify that there is a rumbling noise. Does the engine make the rumbling noise? Go to Step 3


3



Does the rumbling noise still exist?

Go to Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few

Seconds , Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of

Engine Speed , Lower Engine

Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , or Engine Noise


4 Inspect the drive belt for damage, separation, or sections of missing ribs. Did you find any of these conditions? Go to Step 7 Go to Step 5

5 Inspect for severe pilling of more than 1/3 of the drive belt pulley grooves. Did you find severe pilling? Go to Step 6 Go to Step 7

6

1. Clean the drive belt pulleys using a suitable wire brush.

2. Reinstall the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement.

Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 7

7Install a new drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. Did you complete the replacement? Go to Step 8 -

8Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? System OK


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2: This test is to verify that the symptom is present during diagnosing. Other vehicle components may cause a similar symptom such as the exhaust system, or the drivetrain.

3: This test is to verify that the drive belt or accessory drive components may be causing the vibration. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.

4: The drive belt may cause a vibration. While the drive belt is removed this is the best time to inspect the condition of the belt.

6: Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a wrong bolt, nut, spacer, or washer was installed.

8: This step should only be performed if the fan is driven by the drive belt. Inspect the engine cooling fan for bent, twisted, loose, or cracked blades. Inspect the fan clutch for smoothness, ease of turning. Inspect for a bent fan shaft or bent mounting flange.

9: This step should only be performed if the water pump is driven by the drive belt. Inspect the water pump shaft for being bent. Also inspect the water pump bearings for smoothness and excessive play. Compare the water pump with a known good water pump.

10: Accessory drive component brackets that are bent, cracked, or loose may put extra strain on that accessory component causing it to vibrate.

Drive Belt Vibration Diagnosis Step Action Yes No

DEFINITION: The following items are indications of drive belt vibration:

The vibration is engine-speed related.

The vibration may be sensitive to accessory load.

NOTE:



Go to Step 2

Go to Symptoms -Engine

Mechanical

2 Verify that the vibration is engine related. Does the engine make the vibration? Go to Step 3


3



Does the engine still make the vibration?

Go to Diagnostic Starting Point -

Vibration Diagnosis and Correction in

Vibration Diagnosis and

Correction Go to Step 4

4 Inspect the drive belt for wear, damage, debris build-up and missing drive belt ribs.

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DRIVE BELT FALLS OFF DIAGNOSIS

Diagnostic Aids

If the drive belts repeatedly falls off the drive belt pulleys, this is because of pulley misalignment.

An extra load that is quickly applied or released by an accessory drive component may cause the drive belt to fall off the pulleys. Verify the accessory drive components operate properly.

If the drive belt is the incorrect length, the drive belt tensioner may not keep the proper tension on the drive belt.

Test Description


2: This inspection is to verify the condition of the drive belt. Damage to the belt may have occurred when it came off of the pulleys. The drive belt may have been damaged, which caused the drive belt to fall off. Inspect the belt for cuts, tears, sections of ribs missing, or damaged belt plys.

4: Misalignment of the pulleys may be caused from improper mounting of the accessory drive component, incorrect installation of the accessory drive component pulley, or the pulley bent inward or outward from a previous repair. Test for a misaligned pulley using a straight edge in the pulley grooves across 2 or 3 pulleys. If a misaligned pulley is found refer to that accessory drive component for the

Did you find any of these conditions? Go to Step 5 Go to Step 6

5Install a new drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. Did you complete the replacement? Go to Step 11 -

6 Inspect for improper, loose or missing fasteners. Did you find any of these conditions? Go to Step 7 Go to Step 8

7

1. Tighten any loose fasteners.

2. Replace improper or missing fasteners. Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications.

Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 11 -

8 Inspect for damaged fan blades or bent fan clutch shaft, if the fan is belt driven. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 11 Go to Step 9

9

Inspect for a bent water pump shaft, if the water pump is belt driven. Refer to Water Pump Replacement (L61) or Water Pump Replacement (L81) in Engine Cooling. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 11 Go to Step 10

10 Inspect for bent or cracked brackets. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 11



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proper installation procedure for that pulley.

5: Inspecting the pulleys for being bent should include inspecting for a dent or other damage to the pulleys that would prevent the drive belt from not seating properly in all of the pulley grooves or on the smooth surface of a pulley when the back side of the belt is used to drive the pulley.

6: Accessory drive component brackets that are bent or cracked will let the drive belt fall off.

7: Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a wrong bolt, nut, spacer, or washer was installed. Missing, loose, or the wrong fasteners may cause pulley misalignment from the bracket moving under load. Over tightening of the fasteners may cause misalignment of the accessory component bracket.

Drive Belt Falls Off Diagnosis Step Action Yes No

DEFINITION: The drive belt falls off the pulleys or may not ride correctly on the pulleys.

NOTE:



Go to Step 2

Go to Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis

2 Inspect for a damaged drive belt. Did you find the condition? Go to Step 3 Go to Step 4

3Install a new drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. Does the drive belt continue to fall off? Go to Step 4 System OK

4 Inspect for misalignment of the pulleys. Did you find and repair the condition? Go to Step 12 Go to Step 5

5 Inspect for a bent or dented pulley. Did you find and repair the condition? Go to Step 12 Go to Step 6

6 Inspect for a bent or a cracked bracket. Did you find and repair the condition? Go to Step 12 Go to Step 7

7 Inspect for improper, loose or missing fasteners. Did you find loose or missing fasteners? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9

8

Tighten any loose fasteners.

Replace improper or missing fasteners. Refer to FASTENERS in General Information.

Does the drive belt continue to fall off? Go to Step 9 System OK

9Test the drive belt tensioner for operating correctly. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis. Does the drive belt tensioner operate correctly? Go to Step 11 Go to Step 10

10Replace the drive belt tensioner. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis. Does the drive belt continue to fall off? Go to Step 11 System OKInspect for failed drive belt idler and drive belt

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DRIVE BELT EXCESSIVE WEAR DIAGNOSIS

Fig. 19: Minor Cracks DO NOT Warrant Drive Belt Replacement Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Minor cracks in the belt rib are normal. They are the result of reverse bending around a backside pulley. Do not replace belts for minor cracks.

11tensioner pulley bearings. Did you find and repair the condition? Go to Step 12



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Fig. 20: Chunking, Cord Breakage Or Separation DO Warrant Drive Belt Replacement Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Belts that have chunking longer than 5 mm (13/16 in) in one or more places should be replaced.

Belts should also be replaced if cord breakage or fabric separation is observed.

DRIVE BELT TENSIONER DIAGNOSIS

Tools Required

SA9181NE Belt Tension Gage

Belt and Tensioner Load Inspection

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Fig. 21: Drive Belt Routing Illustration Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. The following procedure is to be used when the belt or tensioner is suspected of allowing pulleys to slip or causing any unusual belt noises.

1. Warm up the engine for approximately 10 minutes with all accessories turned ON.

2. The steering wheel must be turned full left and right several times, if equipped with power steering.

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Fig. 22: Using 15 mm Wrench To Rotate Tensioner Pulley Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Shut the engine OFF.

3. Using a 15 mm wrench, rotate the tensioner arm clockwise until the belt becomes loose on the pulleys. Slowly allow the tensioner to apply tension back on the belt.

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Fig. 23: View of Tensioner Pulley Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. The tensioner pulley must not be allowed to snap against the belt.

IMPORTANT: The marking on the tensioner arm must fall within the operating range (2 marks) on the tensioner body. If the tensioner marks fall outside the operating range, the accessory drive belt must be replaced.

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Fig. 24: Checking Belt Tension Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Using a calibrated SA9181NE , or equivalent, (OTC® OEM 1294), read and record the belt tension at mid span for the following drive combinations. This check can be performed on an engine assembly removed from the vehicle. It can not be performed with the engine in the vehicle unless the upper engine mount is removed.

6. Repeat steps 2 and 5 three times and record the information.

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Fig. 25: Belt Tensioner Chart Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Add the 3 readings together and divide the total by 3, as shown in the example:

Belt Tension = Readings / (# of readings)

Belt Tension = [(1)+(2)+(3)] / 3

Example: (54 + 58 + 52) = 164 / 3

Belt Tension = 55 lb.

8. Refer the belt tension chart for specifications.

Accessory Drive Belt Inspection

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Fig. 26: Chunking, Cord Breakage Or Separation DO Warrant Drive Belt ReplacementCourtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Minor cracks in the belt rib are normal. They are the result of reverse bending around a backside pulley. Do not replace belts for minor cracks.

Belts that have chunking longer than 5 mm (13/16 in) in one or more places should be replaced.

Fig. 27: Minor Cracks DO NOT Warrant Drive Belt Replacement Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Belts should also be replaced if cord breakage or fabric separation is observed.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure

Fig. 28: Removing & Installing Engine Mount Bracket Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedurein Battery.

IMPORTANT: The engine must be supported upon removal of the engine mount.

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2. Remove the right front engine mount and engine mount bracket from the engine block. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement.


3. Use a 15 mm wrench to rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise while sliding the drive belt off the tensioner or water pump pulley.

4. Remove the drive belt.

5. Clean and inspect the serpentine drive belt surfaces.

Installation Procedure

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Fig. 30: Drive Belt Routing Illustration Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Route the belt around all pulleys, except the tensioner or water pump.

2. Use a 15 mm wrench to rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise.

3. Slip the belt over the idler or water pump pulley.

4. Install the right front engine mount. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the drive belt is aligned into the proper grooves on the drive pulley.

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5. Connect the negative battery cable.

Tighten: Tighten the battery terminal bolts to 17 N.m (13 lb ft).

ENGINE MOUNT INSPECTION

1. Install the engine support fixture.

2. Observe the engine mount while raising the engine. Raising the engine removes the weight from the engine mount and creates slight tension on the rubber.

3. Replace the engine mount if the engine mount exhibits any of the following conditions:

The hard rubber is covered with heat check cracks.

The rubber is separated from the metal plate of the engine mount.

The rubber is split through the center of the engine mount.

The engine mount itself is leaking fluid.

4. For engine mount replacement. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement.

DRIVE BELT TENSIONER REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure


IMPORTANT: Before replacing any engine mount due to suspected fluid loss, verify that the source of the fluid is the engine mount, not the engine or accessories.

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Fig. 31: Using 15 mm Wrench To Rotate Tensioner Pulley Clockwise Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Use a 15-mm wrench to rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise while lifting the drive belt off the idler pulley.

2. Raise the vehicle.

IMPORTANT: Complete accessory drive belt removal is not required for tensioner replacement.

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Fig. 32: Removing & Installing Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly (L81 V6 Only) Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Remove the drive belt tensioner bolts.

4. Remove the drive belt tensioner from the engine.


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1. Install the drive belt tensioner to the engine.

2. Install the drive belt tensioner bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the belt tensioner bolts to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

3. Lower the vehicle.


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4. Route the drive belt around all pulleys except the idler or water pump pulley.

5. Use a 15-mm wrench to rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise.

6. Slip the drive belt over the idler or water pump pulley.

INTAKE RUNNER REPLACEMENT (FRONT)

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the drive belt is aligned into the proper grooves on the drive pulleys.

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Tools Required

J 43914 Universal Clamp Pliers

Removal Procedure

Fig. 35: Removing/Installing Intake Hose Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the intake hose assembly.

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Fig. 36: Removing Intake Runner Rubber Boot Hose Clamps Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Remove 4 rubber boot hose clamps using the J 43914 .

IMPORTANT: Clamps are reusable if not damaged. Do not discard.

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Fig. 37: Removing & Installing Front Intake Manifold Runner Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Remove the intake runner mounting bolts.

5. Disconnect the intake runner from the rubber boots and remove the intake runner.


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1. Install the intake runner onto the rubber boots.

2. Install the intake runner mounting bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the intake manifold runner bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


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Fig. 39: Installing Intake Runner Rubber Boot Hose Clamps Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Install the 4 rubber boot hose clamps using the J 43914 .

IMPORTANT: Inspect the hose clamps for damage. Replace if damaged.

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4. Install the hose assembly.



INTAKE RUNNER REPLACEMENT (REAR)

Tools Required


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Removal Procedure




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Fig. 42: Removing & Installing ECM Electrical Connectors Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Remove the ECM electrical connectors.

4. Remove the ECM bolts and the ECM.

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Fig. 43: Removing Intake Runner Rubber Boot Hose Clamps Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Remove the 4 rubber boot hose clamps using the J 43914 .

IMPORTANT: Clamps are reusable if not damaged. Do not discard.

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Fig. 44: Removing & Installing Threaded Brake Vacuum Hose Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Disconnect the threaded brake vacuum hose.

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Fig. 45: Connecting Intake Plenum Switch-Over Valve Vacuum Hose At Switch-Over Valve Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Disconnect the intake plenum switch-over valve vacuum hose at the switch-over valve. Note the hose routing.

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Fig. 46: Removing & Installing Rear Intake Manifold Runner Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. Remove the intake runner mounting bolts.

9. Disconnect the vent hose from the throttle body.

10. Disconnect the intake runner from the rubber boots and remove the intake runner. Note the throttle body vent hose routing.


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1. Install the intake runner onto the rubber boots.

2. Route the throttle body vent hose under the vacuum reservoir and connect to the throttle body.

3. Install the intake runner mounting bolts.



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4. Route the intake plenum switch-over valve vacuum hose and connect to the switch-over valve.

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Fig. 49: Removing & Installing Threaded Brake Vacuum Hose Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Connect the threaded brake vacuum line.

Tighten: Tighten the brake vacuum line to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

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Fig. 50: Installing Intake Runner Rubber Boot Hose Clamps Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Install the 4 rubber boot hose clamps using the J 43914 .

IMPORTANT: Inspect the hose clamps for damage. Replace if damaged.

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Fig. 51: Removing & Installing ECM Electrical Connectors Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Install the ECM and ECM bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the engine control module bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

8. Connect the ECM electrical connectors.

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9. Install the intake hose assembly.



ENGINE MOUNT REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure

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Fig. 53: Removing & Installing Air Cleaner Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

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Fig. 54: Proper Installation Of Engine Support Fixture (L81 - V6) Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Support the engine.

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Fig. 55: Locating Engine Mount-To-Intermediate Bracket Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Remove the engine mount to bracket bolts.

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Fig. 56: Removing & Installing Engine Mount Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Remove the engine mount to body bolts.

5. Remove the engine mount from the vehicle.

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Fig. 57: Exploded View Of Engine Mount Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Remove the bolt the retains the mount to the engine mount body bracket.

7. Remove the mount from the mount bracket and isolation pad.


IMPORTANT: Retain the isolation pad for assembly.

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1. Assemble the engine mount, engine mount bracket and isolation pad.

Tighten: Tighten the engine mount to bracket bolt to 90 N.m (66 lb ft).

IMPORTANT: The isolation must be attached to the engine mount. Replace the isolation pad if necessary.


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2. Install the engine mount to the vehicle. Hand tighten the bolts at this time.

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3. Install the engine mount to engine bracket bolts.

Tighten:

Tighten the engine mount to bracket bolts to 55 N.m (41 lb ft).

Tighten the engine mount to vehicle bolts to 55 N.m (41 lb ft).

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4. Remove the engine support.

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Fig. 62: Removing & Installing Air Cleaner Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Install the air cleaner assembly.

ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure

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1. Remove the engine mount. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement.

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2. Remove the engine mount bracket to engine bolts.

3. Remove the engine mount bracket from the engine.


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1. Install the engine mount bracket to the engine.

Tighten: Tighten the engine mount bracket to engine bolts to 90 N.m (66 lb ft).

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2. Install the engine mount. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement.

INTAKE PLENUM REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure

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2. Remove the air cleaner hose assembly from the throttle body.

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Fig. 68: Connecting Throttle Body Electrical Connector Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Disconnect the throttle body electrical connection.

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4. Remove the electrical connection and vacuum hoses from the intake plenum switch over the valve solenoid.

5. Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.

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6. Remove the front intake plenum hose clamps, pipe bolts, and plenum bolts.

7. Lift the plenum and remove the throttle body heater hoses.

8. Remove the intake plenum.

NOTE: Mask off the ports to the intake manifold spacer. Failure to mask off the ports may allow foreign objects to enter the engine resulting in severe damage to the engine.

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9. Remove the front intake runner.

Fig. 71: Removing & Installing Throttle Body Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

10. Remove the throttle body nut and throttle body assembly.


IMPORTANT: It is not necessary to remove the rear intake runner.

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1. Install the throttle body gasket to the plenum.

2. Install the throttle body to the plenum.

3. Install the throttle body nuts.

Tighten: Tighten the throttle body nut to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

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Fig. 73: Removing & Installing Intake Plenum Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Attach the heater and vent hose to the throttle body.

5. Install the intake plenum and intake plenum bolts. Finger tighten the bolts.

6. Install the EGR pipe bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the EGR pipe bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

7. Install the intake plenum bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the intake plenum bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

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8. Install the front manifold runner and tighten the clamps.

9. Install the intake runner bolts.




INTAKE MANIFOLD REPLACEMENT

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Tools Required


SA9805E Fuel Line Separator

Removal Procedure

Fig. 75: Properly Installed Fuel Rail Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


2. Remove the intake plenum. Intake Plenum Replacement.

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Fig. 76: Removing & Installing Fuel Rail Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.

4. Remove the fuel supply hose from the fuel rail using the SA9805E .

5. Remove the fuel return hose from the fuel rail using the SA9805E .

6. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical harness connector.

7. Remove the fuel injector connectors.

8. Remove the fuel injector harness.

9. Remove the fuel rail bolts.

10. Remove the fuel rail.

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Fig. 77: Removing & Installing Intake Manifold Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

11. Remove the intake manifold bolts.

12. Remove the intake manifold.

13. Remove the manifold spacer bolts.

14. Remove the manifold spacer.

NOTE: Use extreme care and do not damage or scratch the machined aluminum surfaces. Leaks will result.

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15. Remove the sealing rings.

16. Clean the manifold sealing surfaces with a nonabrasive tool or solvent.



1. Remove the masking from the intake ports.


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2. Install the manifold gaskets.

3. Install the manifold spacer.

4. Install the manifold spacer bolts. Apply LOCTITE® 242 threadlocker, or equivalent, to the bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the intake manifold spacer bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

5. Install the intake manifold gaskets.

6. Install the intake manifold.

7. Install the intake manifold bolts. Apply LOCTITE® 242 threadlocker, or equivalent, to the bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the intake manifold bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

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Fig. 79: Removing & Installing Fuel Rail AssemblyCourtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. Install the fuel injector electrical harness and connectors.

9. Install the fuel rail.

Tighten: Tighten the fuel rail bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


10. Connect the fuel supply hose.

11. Connect the fuel return hose.

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12. Install the upper intake plenum.

13. Install the plenum bolts and EGR manifold bolt.

Tighten:

Tighten the intake plenum bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

Tighten the EGR manifold bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

14. Install the intake plenum clamp using the J 43914 .



16. Crank the engine but do not start. Check for fuel leaks.

CRANKSHAFT BALANCER REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure

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2. Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement.

IMPORTANT: Removal of the engine mount is not necessary because the accessory drive belt does not have to be removed from the vehicle.

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Fig. 82: Removing & Installing Crankshaft Balancer Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Remove the crankshaft balancer bolts.

4. Remove the crankshaft balancer from the crankshaft drive gear.


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1. Install the crankshaft balancer onto the crankshaft drive gear.

2. Install the crankshaft balancer bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).


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Fig. 84: View of Accessory Drive Belt Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement.




FRONT TIMING BELT COVER REPLACEMENT

Tools Required

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SA9105E Engine Support Fixture (3 Bar)

J 43405 Engine Support Fixture Adapter

Removal Procedure

Fig. 85: Proper Installation Of Air Cleaner Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.



CAUTION: Refer to VEHICLE LIFTING CAUTION in Cautions and Notices.

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3. Raise and support the vehicle.

Fig. 86: Removing/Installing Right Front Lower Splash Shield Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Remove the right front wheel.

5. Remove the splash shield bolts.

6. Remove the splash shield.


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8. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. The accessory drive belt tension provides resistance to enable loosening of the bolts. Do not remove the fastening bolts at this time.

9. Install the engine support fixture and adapters, the SA9105E , and the J 43405 .

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10. Remove the accessory drive belt using a 15 mm wrench to compress the tensioner.

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11. Remove the right engine-to-body mount fasteners.

IMPORTANT: Removal of the accessory drive belt requires the removal of the right front engine mount.

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13. Remove the water pump pulley bolts.

14. Remove the water pump pulley.

15. Remove the power steering pump pulley bolts.

16. Remove the power steering pump pulley.

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17. Remove the accessory drive belt tensioner bolts.

18. Remove the accessory drive belt tensioner.

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19. Remove the crankshaft balancer.

20. Remove the wiring harness channel from the cover and secure away from the front of the engine.

21. Remove the front timing belt cover bolts.

22. Remove the front timing belt cover.

23. Remove the transfer wiring harness channel.

IMPORTANT: Disconnecting the A/C pressure connector will allow additional slack so that the harness may be secured to the top of the engine.

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24. Inspect the sealing strip on the outer edge of the front of the timing belt cover for cracks and/or tears. Replace if necessary.


Fig. 94: Removing & Installing Front Timing Belt Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the front timing belt.

2. Install the front timing belt cover bolts.


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Tighten: Tighten the front timing belt cover bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


3. Install the crankshaft balancer.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

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4. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner.

5. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner bolts.


6. Install the power steering pump pulley.

7. Install the power steering pump pulley bolts.

8. Snug the power steering pump pulley bolts. The bolts will be tightened to the proper specification when the serpentine drive belt is installed.

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9. Install the water pump pulley.

10. Install the water pump pulley bolts.

11. Snug the water pump pulley bolts. The bolts will be tightened to the proper specification when the accessory drive belt is installed.

12. Install the water pump pulley screws.

13. Route the wiring harness into the wiring harness channel.

14. Install the wiring harness channel cover.


15. Install the wiring harness channel extension to the right lower side of the wiring harness channel.

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16. Install the accessory drive belt.

17. Tighten the water pump pulley and power steering pulley bolts.

Tighten:

Tighten the water pump pulley bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

Tighten the power steering pump pulley bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb in).


18. Install the engine mount bracket and tighten the fasteners.

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Tighten: Tighten the engine mount bracket bolt to 55 N.m (41 lb ft).


19. Install the engine mount to the frame rail and engine mount bracket.

Tighten: Tighten the engine mount-to-bracket bolt to 55 N.m (41 lb ft).

20. Remove the engine support fixture.


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Fig. 100: Removing/Installing Right Front Lower Splash Shield Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

22. Install the splash shield.

23. Install the splash shield bolts. Tighten the splash shield bolts until fully seated. Do not strip the bolts.

24. Install the right front wheel.

Tighten: Tighten the wheel bolts to 125 N.m (92 lb ft).

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27. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Tighten: Tighten the battery terminal bolt to 17 N.m (13 lb ft).

REAR TIMING BELT COVER REPLACEMENT

Tools Required

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J 42069 Timing Belt Alignment Kit

Removal Procedure




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3. Remove the front timing belt cover. Refer to Rear Timing Belt Cover Replacement.

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Fig. 104: Rotate Crankshaft Counterclockwise To Prevent Valve/Piston Contact While Removing/Installing Timing Belt Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Remove the timing belt. Refer to Timing Belt Replacement.

5. As a precaution, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to 60 degrees BTDC position to prevent valve/piston contact.

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Fig. 105: Removing & Installing Camshaft Gears Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Remove the camshaft gears using the camshaft lock kit tools J 42069-1 and J 42069-2 within the J 42069 to lock the gears when initially loosening the camshaft gear bolts.

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Fig. 106: Removing & Installing Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Remove the timing belt tensioner bracket bolts.

8. Remove the timing belt tensioner bracket.

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Fig. 107: View Of Lower Timing Belt Idler Pulley Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

9. Remove the lower timing belt idler pulley bolt.

10. Remove the lower timing belt idler pulley.

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Fig. 108: Removing & Installing Rear Timing Belt Cover Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

11. Remove the rear timing belt cover bolts.

12. Remove the rear timing belt threaded pin.

13. Remove the rear timing belt cover.


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1. Install rear timing belt cover.

2. Coat threaded pin with Threadlocker LOCTITE® 242 compound, or equivalent.

3. Install the rear timing belt cover bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the rear timing belt cover bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

4. Install the rear timing belt threaded pin.


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Tighten: Tighten the rear timing belt cover threaded pin to 10 N.m (89 lb in).

5. Install both timing belt idler pulleys.

Tighten: Tighten the idler pulley fastener to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

IMPORTANT: The upper idler pulley (cams 1 and 2) and the lower idler puller (cams 3 and 4) use different bolts and spacers of different thicknesses. The upper idler pulley uses a narrow 5 mm (0.2 in) thick spacer and a black bolt. The lower idler puller uses a 11 mm (0.4 in) thick spacer and a silver bolt.

IMPORTANT: Tighten the timing belt idler pulley bolt until snug. After the final timing belt adjustments are made, the bolt will be tightened to specifications.

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6. Install the timing belt tensioner bracket.

7. Install the timing belt tensioner bracket bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the timing belt tensioner bracket bolt to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

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Fig. 111: Installing Camshaft Gears & NEW Bolts Using Camshaft Lock Kit Tools To Lock Gears In Place While Tightening Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. Install the camshaft gears and new bolts using the camshaft lock kit tools J 42069-1 and J 42069-2 within the J 42069 to lock the gears when tightening the gear bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the camshaft gear bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft) plus 60 degrees plus 15 degrees.

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9. Install and adjust the timing belt. Refer to Timing Belt Replacement.

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10. Install the front timing belt cover.

11. Install the front timing belt cover bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the front timing belt cover bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

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12. Install the intake air resonator.

13. Reconnect the negative battery cable.


TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT

Tools Required


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J 42098 Crank Hub TORX Socket

Removal Procedure

Fig. 115: Properly Installed Crankshaft Locking Tool (J 42069-2) Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


2. Remove the timing belt front cover. Refer to Front Timing Belt Cover Replacement.

3. Rotate the crankshaft using the J 42098 until the #1 cylinder is at 60 degrees before top dead center (BTDC).

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4. Install the crankshaft locking tool, J 42069 .

5. Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotational direction, clockwise, using the J 42098 until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) and tighten the lever arm to the water pump pulley flange.

Fig. 116: Aligning Marks With Notches On Rear Timing Belt Cover & Installing Camshaft Locks Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Install the 1-2 and 3-4 camshaft locks, J 42069 , and J 42069-2.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the alignment of the crankshaft is not 180 degrees off. The alignment marks must align with the corresponding notches on the rear timing belt cover.

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Fig. 117: View Of Installed Camshaft Locks Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Loosen the timing belt tensioner.

8. Remove the timing belt.

IMPORTANT: Do not rotate the crankshaft if the camshaft is not locked in place with 1-2 and 3-4 camshaft locks, J 42069 , and J 42069-2.

IMPORTANT: Do not rotate the camshafts unless the crankshaft is at 60 degrees BTDC or valves may contact crankshaft.

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Inspection Procedure

Fig. 118: Inspecting Timing Belt & Tensioner Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. When checking the condition of the timing belt, inspect for the following conditions and possible causes:

Tooth is broken and/or tooth root is cracked - Camshaft jamming, damaged camshaft/crankshaft oil seal and/or coolant leak, old age, tensioner not functioning properly.

Back surface of the belt is cracked/worn/scratched/scored - Excessive cold starts, tensioner

IMPORTANT: Failure to follow the described timing belt inspection and maintenance may result in a broken timing belt and cause severe engine damage.

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jamming, overheated engine, interference with the belt cover.

Side of belt surface is worn - Improper installation of belt, overload or misalignment of cam drive components, tensioner jamming, heavy thrust loading against idler guide flanges, damaged idler guide.

Teeth are worn - Poor belt cover sealing, excessive belt tension, tension jamming, rough and/or scored cam sprockets.

Clean break across fibers - Kinked belt before or during assembly, foreign material under the belt.

Oil/coolant impregnated and/or swollen belt - Poor oil sealing, coolant leak at pump, poor belt cover seal.

Fig. 119: Removing & Installing Camshaft Gear & Crankshaft Drive Gear Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

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2. Check that the tensioner turns smoothly and that no binding occurs in the bearing.


1. Remove the crankshaft locking tool. This will ease installation of the timing belt.

Fig. 120: Verifying Distance Between Camshaft Sprockets Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Starting at the #1 and #2 camshaft sprockets, route the belt around the #1 and #2 sprockets while aligning

IMPORTANT: With the camshaft locks installed, verify the distance between the camshaft sprockets with the green test belt located in the J 42069 .

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the belt marks to the marks on the sprockets and the rear cover.

3. Install the belt around the timing belt tensioner.

4. Route the belt around the upper idler pulley.

5. Route the belt around the #3 and the #4 camshaft sprockets while aligning the belt marks to the marks on the sprockets and the rear cover.

6. Route the belt around the crankshaft hub sprockets while aligning the marks on the belt to the marks on the sprockets and the rear cover.

Fig. 121: Identifying Guide Marks

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7. Install the J 42069-30 to lock the timing belt onto the crankshaft hub sprocket.

Fig. 122: Rotating Crankshaft Counterclockwise To Place Belt Slack On Lower Idler Pulley Side Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. With the belt firmly engaged on the crankshaft hub, carefully rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to get the belt slack on the lower idler pulley side.

9. Route the belt around the lower idler pulley.

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Fig. 123: Identifying Lever Arm Of J 42069-2 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

10. Remove the J 42069-30.

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Fig. 124: Properly Installed Crankshaft Locking Tool (J 42069-2) Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

11. Install the J 42069-2 and tighten the lever arm to the water pump pulley flange.

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Fig. 125: Verifying Camshaft Alignment Marks Camshaft Checking Gage Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

12. Perform the following in sequence:

1. Install the camshaft checking gage to cams 3 and 4 and verify the alignment marks are within 2 mm (0.08 in) of each other.

2. Install the 3 and 4 camshaft lock, if properly aligned.

3. Install the camshaft checking gage to cams 1 and 2.

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Fig. 126: Aligning Camshaft Timing Marks To Install Camshaft Lock Between No. 1 & 2 Camshafts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

13. Rotate the #1 camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to remove the slack between 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 cams.

14. Rotate the upper idler pulley counterclockwise until the marks are properly aligned within 2 mm (0.08 in) of each other.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the camshaft timing marks are to the left (retard) side of the checking gage.

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15. Install the 1 and 2 camshaft lock when properly aligned.

Tighten: Tighten the upper pulley bolt to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

Fig. 127: Aligning Timing Belt Tensioner Center Alignment Mark About 3 mm (1/8") Above Spring Loaded Idler Alignment Mark Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

16. Adjust the timing belt tensioner so that the center alignment mark is about 3 mm (1/8 in) above the alignment mark on the spring loaded idler.


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Fig. 128: Rotating Crankshaft Counterclockwise To Place Belt Slack On Lower Idler Pulley Side Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

17. Remove 1-2 and 3-4 camshaft locks, J 42069 , and J 42069-2.

18. Remove the J 42069-10.

19. Rotate the crankshaft 1 3/4 turns clockwise, install J 42069-10, and then stop at TDC.

IMPORTANT: If TDC is passed, do not rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise. This will not allow proper slack to be taken up between the timing belt tensioner and the crankshaft sprocket. To correct, rotate the crankshaft an additional 2 turns.

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Fig. 129: Rechecking Both Pairs Of Camshaft Timing Marks Using J 42069-20 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

20. Tighten the lever arm to the water pump pulley flange.

21. Recheck both pairs of the camshaft timing marks using the J 42069-20.

IMPORTANT: Timing marks on the timing belt are used for initial installation only.

IMPORTANT: If the timing marks are off, repeat the procedures to readjust. Removal of the timing belt is not necessary.

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Fig. 130: Aligning Timing Belt Tensioner Center Alignment Mark About 3 mm (1/8") Above Spring Loaded Idler Alignment Mark Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

22. Adjust the timing belt tensioner to the center alignment mark is about 3 mm (1/8 in) above the alignment mark on the spring loaded idler.

23. Tighten the timing belt tensioner.

Tighten: Tighten the timing belt tensioner fastening nut to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

24. Verify the timing marks are still aligned.

25. Remove the J 42069-10 and J 42069-20.

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26. Install the timing belt front cover. Refer to Front Timing Belt Cover Replacement.



TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure



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3. Remove the front timing belt cover. Refer to Front Timing Belt Cover Replacement.



6. Remove the timing belt tensioner bracket.




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Tighten: Tighten the timing belt tensioner bracket bolt to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

3. Install the timing belt. Refer to Timing Belt Replacement.

4. Install the front timing belt cover. Refer to Front Timing Belt Cover Replacement.

5. Install the intake air resonator.



CAMSHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET REPLACEMENT

Tools Required


SA9140E Torque Angle Gage

Removal Procedure


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IMPORTANT: As a precaution, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to 60 degrees BTDC position to prevent valve/piston contact.

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5. Insert the J 42069 and the J 42069-2 into the appropriate camshaft gears to hold the gears in place while removing the camshaft bolt.


6. Remove the camshaft gear bolt.

7. Remove the camshaft gear and discard the camshaft gear bolts.


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Fig. 135: Installing Alignment Pin In Correct, Numbered, Alignment Slot On Camshaft Gear Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the camshaft gear.

IMPORTANT: Install the alignment pin in the correct, numbered, alignment slot on the camshaft gear.

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2. Install the camshaft gear bolt.

Use the J 42069 and the J 42069-2 to hold the camshaft gear and camshaft in place while tightening the camshaft gear bolt.

IMPORTANT: Use a new camshaft gear bolt. The required tightening method will stretch the bolts to its yield point, therefore, the bolt is not reusable.


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Use the SA9140E to tighten the camshaft gear bolt.



3. Turn the crankshaft clockwise back to TDC.





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CAMSHAFT COVER REPLACEMENT (FRONT)

Removal Procedure



2. Remove the intake plenum. Refer to Intake Plenum Replacement.

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3. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement.

4. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor electrical connection.

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Fig. 140: Removing & Installing Ignition Control Module Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Remove the ignition module.

6. Remove the oil filler cap.

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Fig. 141: Removing & Installing Front Camshaft Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Remove the lift bracket.

8. Remove the camshaft cover bolts.

9. Remove the camshaft cover.

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Fig. 142: Removing & Installing Camshaft Cover Seals Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

10. Remove the camshaft cover seals.

11. Clean the camshaft cover.

12. Clean the sealing surfaces.


IMPORTANT: Ensure all 8 sealing O-rings are accounted for. The O-rings may stick to the camshaft bearing caps or they may fall into the oil pan.

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1. Lightly coat the new seals, including the O-rings, with engine oil prior to installation to assist in holding the O-ring seals to the camshaft cover.

2. Install the camshaft cover seals.

IMPORTANT: The intake camshaft is marked with the letter A and the exhaust camshaft is marked with the letter E.

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Fig. 144: Applying Thin Coat Of Loctite® 5900 Or Equivalent On Front & Rear Of Camshaft Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Apply a thin coat of LOCTITE® 5900 or equivalent on the front and rear of the camshaft cover as shown in the figure as the shaded areas.

4. Install the camshaft cover to the cylinder head.

5. Install the camshaft cover bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the camshaft cover bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


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6. Install the oil filler cap.

7. Install the lift bracket.

Tighten: Tighten the engine lift bracket bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).



Tighten: Tighten the ignition module bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

9. Connect the crankshaft position sensor electrical connection.

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10. Install the intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement.

11. Install the intake plenum. Refer to Intake Plenum Replacement.



13. Start the engine and inspect for oil leaks.

CAMSHAFT COVER REPLACEMENT (REAR)

Removal Procedure

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Fig. 146: Removing & Installing Ignition Control ModulesCourtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.





5. Remove the knock sensor wire harness.

Fig. 147: Removing & Installing Rear Camshaft Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

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11. Clean all of the sealing surfaces.



1. Lightly coat the new seals, including the O-rings, with engine oil prior to installation to assist in holding the O-ring seals to the valve cover.

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3. Apply a thin coat of LOCTITE® 5900 or equivalent at the front and back of the camshaft cover as shown in the figure as the shaded areas.

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CAMSHAFT COVER REPLACEMENT - LEFT

Removal Procedure



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4. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor electrical connection.

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1. Lightly coat the new seals, including the O-rings, with engine oil prior to installation to assist in holding the O-ring seals to the camshaft cover.



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3. Apply a thin coat of LOCTITE® 5900 or equivalent on the front and rear of the camshaft cover as shown in the figure as the shaded areas.





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6. Install the oil filler cap.






9. Connect the crankshaft position sensor electrical connection.

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CAMSHAFT COVER REPLACEMENT - RIGHT

Removal Procedure

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Fig. 161: Removing & Installing Ignition Control ModulesCourtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.





5. Remove the knock sensor wire harness.


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1. Lightly coat the new seals, including the O-rings, with engine oil prior to installation to assist in holding the O-ring seals to the valve cover.

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3. Apply a thin coat of LOCTITE® 5900 or equivalent at the front and back of the camshaft cover as shown in the figure as the shaded areas.

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CAMSHAFT REPLACEMENT - LEFT

Tools Required

J 35268-A Camshaft/Front Main Seal Installer



Removal Procedure

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4. Remove the front camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).

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7. Insert the J 42069-2 Camshaft Gear Locking Tool into the camshaft gears to hold them in place while loosening the camshaft gear bolt.

IMPORTANT: As a precaution, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to 60 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) position to prevent valve/piston contact.

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8. Remove the J 42069-2.

9. Remove the camshaft gear bolt and discard.

10. Remove the camshaft gear.

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Fig. 173: Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolt Loosening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

11. Loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts, sequentially, starting from the center and moving outwards in a spiral direction.

12. Remove the camshaft bearing cap bolts.

13. Remove the camshaft bearing caps. Note the marks on the bearing caps.

14. The bearing caps for the front side cylinder head are marked with an R followed by a number.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the camshaft is not under load from the lifters and that the camshaft comes out of the bearing seat evenly.

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15. Remove the camshaft with a seal attached.

16. Remove the camshaft seal.

17. Clean all of the bearing surfaces.



Fig. 174: Applying Small Amount Of LOCTITE® 518, Or Equivalent, On Forward Edge Of Front Bearing Caps To Ensure Adequate Seal Between Bearing Cap & Cylinder Head Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces with clean engine oil.

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2. Install the camshaft to the cylinder head.

Fig. 175: Identifying Camshaft Pin Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


IMPORTANT: Ensure the pin on the exhaust camshaft is approximately in the 12 o'clock position and/or that the pin on the intake camshaft is approximately in the 7 o'clock position to allow for minimal load on the camshaft when installing the bearing caps.

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3. Apply a small amount of LOCTITE® 518, or equivalent, on the forward edge of the front bearing caps to ensure an adequate seal between the bearing cap and the cylinder head.

Fig. 176: Front Cylinder Head Bearing Cap Markings Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. The bearing caps for the front (CYL 2, 4, 6) cylinder head are marked R1-R8 (cylinders 2, 4, 6).

5. Install the camshaft bearing caps in their appropriate position.

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Fig. 177: Identifying Camshaft Bearing Cap Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Install the camshaft bearing cap bolts.


IMPORTANT: Do not allow the sealer to get into the oil journal of the cap.

IMPORTANT: Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts starting from the center cap gradually.

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Tighten: Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

Fig. 178: Installing Camshaft Seal Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Coat the lip of the seal with a small amount of clean engine oil to aid in installation.

8. Use the J 35268-A to install the camshaft seal.

9. Ensure that the camshaft seal is fully and evenly seated.

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10. Install the new camshaft gear bolt using the SA9140E .

11. Use the J 42069-2 to hold the camshaft gear and the camshaft in place while tightening the camshaft gear bolt.



IMPORTANT: Use a new camshaft gear bolt. The required tightening method will stretch the bolt to its yield point. Therefore, the bolt is not reusable.

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13. Adjust the timing belt. Refer to Timing Belt Replacement.

14. Install the timing belt cover. Refer to Front Timing Belt Cover Replacement.

15. Install the front camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).





CAMSHAFT REPLACEMENT - RIGHT

Tools Required



Removal Procedure

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4. Remove the rear camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).

5. Remove the timing belt cover. Refer to Rear Timing Belt Cover Replacement.


7. Insert the J 42069-2 Camshaft Locking Tool into the camshaft gears to hold the gear in place while

IMPORTANT: As a precaution, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to 60 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) position to prevent valve/piston contact.

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loosening the camshaft gear bolt.


8. Remove the J 42069-2.

9. Remove the camshaft gear bolt.

10. Remove the camshaft gear.

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11. Loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts sequentially, starting from the center and moving outwards in a spiral direction in stages of 1/2-1 turn.

12. Remove the camshaft bearing cap bolts.

13. Remove the camshaft bearing caps. Note the code marks on the bearing caps.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the camshaft is not under load from the lifters and that the camshaft comes out of the bearing seats evenly.

IMPORTANT: The bearing caps for the rear side (CYL 1, 3, 5) cylinder head are marked

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14. Remove the camshaft with the seal attached.

15. Remove the camshaft seal.

16. Clean all of the bearing surfaces.




with an L followed by a number.

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2. Install the camshaft to the cylinder head.

Fig. 185: Identifying Camshaft Pin Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


IMPORTANT: Ensure the pin on the exhaust camshaft is approximately in the 1 o'clock position and/or that the pin on the intake camshaft is approximately in the

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Fig. 186: Rear Cylinder Head Bearing Cap Markings Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. The bearing caps for rear (CYL 1, 3, 5) cylinder head are marked L1-L8 (cylinder 1, 3, 5).

5. Install the camshaft bearing caps in their appropriate position.

11 o'clock position to allow for minimal load on the camshaft when installing the bearing caps.

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Tighten: Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


IMPORTANT: Do not allow the sealer to get into the oil journal of the cap.

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7. Coat the lip of the seal with a small amount of clean engine oil to aid in the installation.

8. Use the J 35268-A to tap the camshaft seal into place.


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10. Install the camshaft gear bolt. Use the J 42069 and J 42069-2 camshaft gear locks to lock the camshaft gears while tightening.



12. Adjust the timing belt. Refer to Timing Belt Replacement.

IMPORTANT: Use a new camshaft gear bolt. The required tightening method will stretch the bolt to its yield point. Therefore, the bolt is not reusable.

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13. Install the timing belt cover. Refer to Rear Timing Belt Cover Replacement.






VALVE LIFTER REPLACEMENT

Tools Required


Removal Procedure

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4. Remove the relevant camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).

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Fig. 192: View Of Front Timing Belt Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


6. Remove the timing belt. Refer to Front Timing Belt Cover Replacement.

7. Remove the relevant camshaft gears. Refer to Camshaft Drive Sprocket Replacement.

8. Remove the relevant camshafts with the seal attached. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).

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Fig. 193: Removing & Installing Valve Lifter Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

9. Remove the lifters. Use the magnet to lift out the lifters.

10. Place the lifters in the rack sequentially so they can be reinstalled in their original order if the lifters are to be reused.


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Fig. 194: Removing & Installing Valve Lifter Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Lubricate the lifters with clean engine oil.

2. Install the lifters in their original position, if not replaced.

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3. Install the relevant camshafts. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).

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4. Coat the lip of the camshaft seal with a small amount of clean engine oil to aid in installation.

5. Use the J 35268-A to install the seal.


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7. Install the relevant camshaft gears. Refer to Camshaft Drive Sprocket Replacement.

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8. Install the timing belt and adjust the timing belt. Refer to Timing Belt Replacement.


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10. Install the relevant camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).

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CYLINDER HEAD REPLACEMENT (FRONT)


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Tools Required


Removal Procedure



2. Remove the intake air cleaner.


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5. Remove the intake manifold spacer bolts.

Fig. 202: Removing & Installing Intake Manifold Spacer Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Remove the intake manifold spacer.

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Fig. 203: Removing & Installing Coolant Bridge Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Remove the coolant bridge.

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Fig. 204: Installing Hose Over Radiator Drain Tube & Loosening Radiator Drain Valve Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. Drain the coolant.

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Fig. 205: Removing/Installing Upper Radiator Hose From Radiator Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

9. Remove the upper radiator hose from the coolant extension housing.

10. Support the powertrain using a floor jack under the oil pan.

IMPORTANT: The powertrain must be lifted up in order to remove the coolant extension housing.

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Fig. 206: Removing/Installing Front Transaxle Mount Through Bolt Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

11. Remove the front transaxle mount through the bolt.

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Fig. 207: Removing & Installing Coolant Pipe/Engine Lift Bracket Bolt Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

12. Raise the powertrain with a floor jack in order to provide clearance to pull out the extension housing over the coolant module.

13. Remove the oil level indicator tube and coolant extension tube bolt.

14. Remove the oil level indicator tube by pulling upwards.

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Fig. 208: Removing & Installing Coolant Extension Housing Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

15. Twist the coolant extension housing to remove.

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16. Remove the front camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).

17. Remove the grounds from the front lift bracket.

18. Disconnect the oxygen sensor electrical connection.

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Fig. 210: Installing Down Pipe-To-Exhaust Manifold Nuts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

19. Remove the down pipe to the exhaust manifold nuts.

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22. Remove the timing belt tensioner bracket. Refer to Timing Belt Replacement.

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Fig. 212: Removing & Installing Camshaft Bearing Caps & Camshaft Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

23. Remove the rear timing belt cover. Refer to Front Timing Belt Cover Replacement.

24. Remove the camshaft sensor electrical connection.

25. Remove the exhaust camshaft.


IMPORTANT: It is not necessary to remove the intake camshaft for head bolt access.

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Fig. 213: Cylinder Head Bolt Loosening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

26. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the stages in the sequence shown.

27. Remove the cylinder head bolts.

28. Remove the cylinder head.

29. Remove the cylinder head gasket.

30. Clean and inspect the cylinder head and sealing surfaces.

31. Remove the exhaust manifold.


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Fig. 214: Proper Installation Of NEW Front Cylinder Head Gasket Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the exhaust manifold and the new gasket.

Tighten: Tighten the exhaust manifold nut to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

2. Install the new cylinder head gasket with the part number imprint toward the top of the engine.

3. Install the cylinder head to the engine block ensuring the adequate clearance from all the wires, components, etc.


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Fig. 215: Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Install the new cylinder head bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft) plus 90 degrees plus 90 degrees plus 90

IMPORTANT: Use the new cylinder head bolts. The required tightening method stretches the bolts to their yield point. Therefore, the cylinder head bolts are not reusable.

IMPORTANT: Use the SA9140E and the proper tightening sequence to tighten the cylinder head bolts in stages.

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degrees plus 15 degrees.

Fig. 216: Installing Coolant Pipe O-Rings (L81) Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Replace the 2 sealing rings on the coolant pipe.

6. Lubricate the 2 sealing rings with coolant.

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Fig. 217: Proper Installation Of Coolant Pipe/Engine Lift Bracket Bolt Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Install the coolant pipe and the engine lift bracket bolt to the cylinder head. Ensure that the bolt passes through all of the attached components.

Tighten: Tighten the coolant pipe/engine lift bracket bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

8. Install the upper radiator hose to the coolant pipe.

9. Install the upper radiator hose clamp.

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10. Lower the powertrain and align the front transaxle mount and the mounting bracket using a floor jack.

11. Install the front transaxle mount through bolt.

12. Remove the floor jack.

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13. Install the upper radiator hose.

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14. Install the exhaust camshaft.

15. Install the exhaust camshaft sensor electrical connection.



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16. Install the rear timing belt cover.

17. Coat the threaded pin with Threadlocker LOCTITE® 242 compound or equivalent.


Tighten: Tighten the rear timing belt cover bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

19. Install the rear timing belt threaded pin.


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20. Install all 4 camshaft gears. Refer to Camshaft Drive Sprocket Replacement.

21. Install the timing belt tensioner bracket. Refer to Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement.



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25. Install the coolant bridge and new coolant bridge seals.

26. Apply sealing compound LOCTITE® 518, or equivalent, to the sealing surface.

Tighten: Tighten the coolant bridge bolts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).

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Fig. 225: Intake Manifold Spacer Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

27. Install the intake manifold spacer.

28. Install the intake manifold spacer bolts. Tighten the intake manifold spacer bolts in a spiral direction, starting from the inside and working outward.

Tighten: Tighten the intake manifold spacer bolt 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

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31. Install the intake air cleaner.

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Fig. 227: Removing Surge Tank Cap Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

32. Refill the coolant.



CYLINDER HEAD REPLACEMENT (REAR)

Tools Required


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Removal Procedure




3. Remove the intake air resonator. Refer to Resonator Replacement .


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Fig. 231: Removing & Installing Engine Vent Housing Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. Remove the engine ventilation chamber.

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9. Remove the rear camshaft cover.

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12. Remove the timing belt tensioner bracket. Refer to Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement.

13. Remove all 4 camshaft gears. Refer to Camshaft Drive Sprocket Replacement.

14. Remove the rear timing belt cover. Refer to Rear Timing Belt Cover Replacement.

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Fig. 234: Removing & Installing Rear Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

15. Remove the exhaust manifold pipe heat shield.

16. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

CAUTION: Ensure that the vehicle is properly supported and squarely positioned. To help avoid personal injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for the vehicle on the opposite end from which the components are being removed.

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Fig. 235: Installing Front Exhaust Manifold Pipe-To-Rear Exhaust Manifold Pipe Fasteners Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

17. Remove the front exhaust manifold pipe to rear exhaust manifold pipe fasteners.

NOTE: Avoid excessive movement of the pipe.

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Fig. 236: Removing & Installing Exhaust Manifold Pipe Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

18. Remove the rear exhaust manifold pipe to exhaust manifold pipe nuts.

19. Pull down the rear exhaust manifold pipe just enough to remove the gasket.

20. Remove the old gasket and discard.

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Fig. 237: Installing Hose Over Radiator Drain Tube & Loosening Radiator Drain Valve Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.



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Fig. 238: Installing EGR-To-Exhaust Manifold Pipe, Rear Exhaust Manifold & Gasket & Oxygen Sensor Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

23. Remove the EGR to exhaust manifold pipe.

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24. Remove the exhaust camshaft. Refer to Camshaft Replacement - Left and Camshaft Replacement - Right.


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Fig. 240: Cylinder Head Bolt Loosening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

25. Remove the cylinder head bolts.

26. Remove the cylinder head.

27. Remove the cylinder head gasket.

28. Remove the exhaust manifold.

IMPORTANT: Use the loosening sequence to remove the cylinder head.


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29. Clean and inspect the cylinder head and sealing surfaces.


Fig. 241: Proper Installation Of NEW Rear Cylinder Head Gasket Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the rear exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Replacement (In Vehicle - L61) or Exhaust Manifold Replacement (Rear - L81) or Exhaust Manifold Replacement (Front - L81) in Engine Exhaust.


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Tighten: Tighten the exhaust manifold nut to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

2. Install the new cylinder head gasket with the part number imprint toward the top of the engine.

3. Install the cylinder head to engine block ensuring the adequate clearance from all wires, components, etc.


IMPORTANT: Use the new cylinder head bolts. The required tightening method stretches the bolts to their yield point. Therefore the cylinder head bolts are not reusable.

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4. Install the new cylinder head bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the cylinder head bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft) plus 90 degrees plus 90 degrees plus 90 degrees plus 15 degrees.

5. Install the exhaust camshaft. Camshaft Replacement - Right


IMPORTANT: Use the SA9140E and the proper tightening sequence to tighten the cylinder head bolts in stages.

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6. Install the rear timing belt cover. Refer to Rear Timing Belt Cover Replacement.


7. Install all 4 camshaft gears. Refer to Camshaft Drive Sprocket Replacement.

8. Install the timing belt tensioner bracket. Refer to Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement.



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11. Install the rear camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement (Front) or Camshaft Cover Replacement (Rear).

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12. Install the coolant bridge and new coolant bridge seals.

13. Apply sealing compound LOCTITE® 518, or equivalent, to the sealing surface.


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Fig. 247: Installing Engine Vent Housing Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

14. Install the engine ventilation chamber.

Tighten: Tighten the engine ventilation chamber bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

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15. Install the intake manifold spacer.

16. Install the intake manifold spacer bolts, and apply LOCTITE® 242 to the bolts.

17. Tighten the intake manifold spacer bolts in a spiral direction, starting from the inside and working outward.


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23. Install the EGR to exhaust manifold pipe.

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Tighten: Tighten the EGR pipe bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

Fig. 250: Removing & Installing Exhaust Manifold Pipe Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


25. Install the exhaust manifold pipe gasket and assembly.

26. Install the exhaust manifold pipe nuts.

Tighten: Tighten the exhaust manifold pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts to 30 N.m (25 lb ft).


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28. Start the vehicle and inspect for exhaust leaks.

FLEXPLATE REPLACEMENT

Tools Required


Removal Procedure

Fig. 251: Exploded View Of Flexplate Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

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1. Remove the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Automatic Transaxle - 4T40-E/4T45-E.

2. Use the J 42098 to counterhold the crankshaft to remove the flexplate bolts.

3. Remove the flexplate from the crankshaft.

4. Clean the rear crankshaft flange.



1. Install the flexplate to the crankshaft.

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Use new flex plate bolts.

Coat the new flex plate bolts with LOCTITE® 272 Threadlocker or equivalent.

2. Use the J 42098 to counterhold the crankshaft and install the flexplate bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the flex plate bolt to 65 N.m (48 lb ft) plus 30 degrees plus 15 degrees.

3. Install the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Automatic Transaxle - 4T40-E/4T45-E.

CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

Tools Required

J 42067 Rear Main Seal Installer

Removal Procedure

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1. Remove the flexplate. Refer to Flexplate Replacement.

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Fig. 254: Installing Self-Tapping Screw To Remove Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Center punch the steel ring of the rear main oil seal.

3. Carefully drill a small, shallow pilot hole into the steel ring of the rear main oil seal. Use caution when drilling the hole so as not to damage the engine components on the opposite side of the rear main oil seal.

4. Screw in a self-tapping screw.

5. Use pliers to pull out the rear main oil seal.

6. Clean all sealing surfaces.


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Fig. 255: Coating Lip Of Rear Main Oil Seal With Clean Engine Oil Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Coat the lip of the rear main oil seal with a small amount of clean engine oil.

2. Use the J 42067 to install the rear main oil seal.

3. Install the flexplate. Refer to Flexplate Replacement.

CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

Tools Required

J 35268-A Camshaft Front Main Seal Installer

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Removal Procedure

Fig. 256: Installing Self-Tapping Screw To Remove Crankshaft Front Main Oil Seal Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


2. Remove the crankshaft gear. Refer to Camshaft Drive Sprocket Replacement.

3. Carefully, drill a small, shallow pilot hole into the steel ring of the seal.

IMPORTANT: Do not damage the area around and behind the seal when drilling the hole.

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5. Use pliers to pull out the front main oil seal.



Fig. 257: Installing Crankshaft Front Main Oil Seal Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Coat the lip of the front main oil seal with a small amount of clean engine oil to aid in the installation.

2. Use the J 35268-A to install the front main oil seal.

3. Ensure that the front main oil seal is fully and evenly seated.

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4. Install the crankshaft gear. Refer to Camshaft Drive Sprocket Replacement.


OIL LEVEL INDICATOR AND TUBE REPLACEMENT

Tools Required

SA9105E Engine Support Fixture (3 Bar)


Removal Procedure

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Fig. 258: Installing Hose Over Radiator Drain Tube & Loosening Radiator Drain ValveCourtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.



2. Remove the upper radiator hose from the coolant extension housing.

IMPORTANT: The powertrain must be lifted up in order to remove the coolant extension housing.

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3. Install the SA9105E and the J 43405 and support the powertrain.

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4. Remove the front transaxle mount through bolt.

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5. Raise the powertrain with the engine support fixture to provide clearance to pull the extension housing above the coolant module.

6. Remove the oil level indicator tube and coolant extension tube bolt.

7. Remove the oil level indicator tube by pulling upwards.


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Fig. 263: Removing & Installing Coolant Extension Housing Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install 2 new O-rings onto the coolant extension housing.

2. Lubricate the O-ring with coolant and install the extension housing.

3. Install the oil level indicator tube and coolant extension housing bolt.

Tighten: Tighten the coolant extension housing bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).


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4. Lower the powertrain and align the front transaxle mount and mounting bracket using the engine support fixture.

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5. Install the front transaxle mount through bolt.

Tighten: Tighten the transaxle mount through bolt to 55 N.m (41 lb ft).

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6. Remove the engine support fixture and adapters SA9105E and J 43405 or equivalent.

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Fig. 268: Removing Surge Tank Cap Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


OIL PAN REPLACEMENT

Tools Required

J 44715 Oil Pan Alignment Pins. See Special Tools and Equipment.

Removal Procedure

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Fig. 269: View Of Oil Pan & Components Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


2. Remove the nose cone bracket bolt from the oil pan.

3. Remove the lower transaxle flange to the oil pan bolts.

4. Remove the oil pan bolts.


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5. Use a pry point to brake loose the seal. Bump the pan with a rubber mallet to loosen the pan from the engine block.

6. Remove the oil pan.


1. Clean the oil pan and engine block sealing flanges with a chlorinated solvent such as carburetor spray cleaner, brake clean, or alcohol SA P/N 21007432, or equivalent.

2. Install the J 44715 into the datum holes as shown in the illustration. See Special Tools and Equipment. Tighten until firmly seated in the block.

3. Apply a 2 mm bead of Permatex® The Right Stuff 3 mm from the inside edge of the oil pan.

IMPORTANT: When removing the oil pan, use only sedinated pry points to prevent damage to the sealing flange. SA9123E may be used to brake the oil pan loose from the engine block if necessary.

NOTE: After the pan has been placed on the engine block, do not allow the pan to move as this will not allow the sealant to properly seal in the chamfered flange.

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Fig. 270: Installing Oil Pan Alignment Pins (J 44715) Into Datum Holes Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Assemble the oil pan to the engine block.

1. Install the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts and finger tighten.

2. Install the transaxle-to-oil pan bolts and finger tighten in order.

3. Install enough oil pan bolts to retain the oil pan into position and remove the J 44715 . See Special Tools and Equipment.

4. Install the oil pan bolts. Use thread locking compound threadlocker Permatex® Threadlocker Blue


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P/N 21485278, or equivalent.

Tighten:

Tighten the oil pan bolts to 15 N.m (11 lb ft).

Tighten the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts (transaxle nose bracket bolts) to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

Tighten the transaxle-to-oil pan bolts to 65 N.m (48 lb ft).

OIL PUMP PIPE AND SCREEN ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure


2. Drain the engine oil.


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Fig. 272: Removing & Installing Oil Pump Pipe & Screen Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Remove the oil intake pipe bolts.

6. Remove the oil intake pipe.

7. Remove the oil intake pipe O-ring.

8. Clean the gasket surfaces.


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Fig. 273: Removing & Installing Oil Pump Pipe & Screen Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the oil pump pipe O-ring.

2. Install the oil pump pipe.

3. Install the oil pump pipe bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pickup tube bolts - L81 to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


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4. Install the oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan Replacement.


6. Refill the engine with 4.73 L (5 qt) of oil.

7. Start the vehicle and inspect for leaks and correct oil pressure.

OIL BAFFLE REPLACEMENT

IMPORTANT: Application of the RTV and the oil pan alignment is critical.

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Removal Procedure




3. Remove the oil pan Refer to Oil Pan Replacement.


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Fig. 276: Removing & Installing Oil Pan Baffle Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Remove the oil pan baffle bolts.

5. Remove the oil pan baffle.

6. Clean the following components:

The oil pan.

The oil pan housing.

The gasket surfaces.


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Fig. 277: Removing & Installing Oil Pan Baffle Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the oil pan baffle.

2. Install the oil pan baffle bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pan baffle bolt - L81 to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


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5. Refill the engine with 4.73 L (5 qt) of oil.

OIL PUMP REPLACEMENT

Tools Required

IMPORTANT: Application of the RTV and oil pan alignment is critical.

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J 42065 Crank Hub Holding Tool


Removal Procedure


2. Remove the intake air cleaner assembly.


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5. Remove the rear timing belt cover. Refer to Rear Timing Belt Cover Replacement.

6. Remove the A/C compressor and the idler power steering bracket bolts.

7. Position the A/C compressor and the idler bracket out of the way of the oil pump housing and secure.

8. Remove the generator lower mounting bolt.

9. Loosen the upper generator mounting bolt.

10. Pivot the generator out of the way and secure.


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11. Remove the oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan Replacement.

12. Remove the oil pump pickup tube.

Fig. 281: Installing Crank Hub Holding Tool (J 42065) To Crankshaft Drive Gear Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

13. Mount the J 42065 to the crankshaft drive gear.

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Fig. 282: Removing & Installing Crankshaft Drive Gear Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

14. Use the J 42098 to remove the crankshaft drive gear bolt.

15. Remove the crankshaft drive gear.

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Fig. 283: Removing & Installing Oil Pump Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

16. Remove the oil pump bolts.

17. Remove the 3 oil pan housing bolts that thread into the oil pump.

18. Remove the oil pump.

19. Remove the front main oil seal and the collar from the oil pump.

20. Clean the oil pump sealing surfaces if pump is to be reinstalled.

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Fig. 284: Inspecting Engine Block & Upper Oil Pan Housing Sealing Surfaces Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

21. Clean the engine block and the upper oil pan housing sealing surfaces.

22. Ensure all the old sealant, gasket material and residual oil is removed.


1. Install the oil pump gasket.

2. Install the oil pump and align with the guide pins.


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3. Apply Permatex Threadlocker Blue P/N 21485278, or equivalent, to oil the pump bolts and install the bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pump bolts to 9 N.m (80 lb in).


4. Install the oil pump collar.

5. Install the front main oil seal. Coat the lip of the front of the main oil seal with a small amount of clean engine oil to aid in installation.


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8. Install the crankshaft drive gear.

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9. Mount the J 42065 to the crankshaft drive gear.

10. Using the J 42098 , Install a new crankshaft drive gear bolt.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft drive gear bolt to 250 N.m (184 lb ft).

11. Using the J 36660-A tighten the crankshaft drive gear bolt in the following sequence:

Tighten:

1. The first pass, rotate the crankshaft drive gear bolt 45 Degrees.

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2. The second pass, rotate the crankshaft drive gear bolt an additional 15 Degrees

12. Lubricate the new oil pump pickup tube O-ring with motor oil.


13. Install the oil pump pickup tube.

14. Install the oil pump pickup tube bolts.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the oil pump pickup tube O-Ring is installed prior to pickup tube installation.

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Tighten: Tighten the oil pickup tube bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


16. Release and pivot the generator into place and install the generator lower mounting bolt.

Tighten: Tighten the generator mounting bolts to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

17. Position the A/C compressor and idler pulley bracket.

18. Install the A/C compressor and bracket bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the A/C compressor bracket bolt to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

Fig. 289: Identifying Pump Side Of NEW Oil Pump Gasket For Application Of Permatex

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Anaerobic Flange Sealant, Or Equivalent & Oil Pump Bolt Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

19. Install and tighten the drive belt idler pulley for camshafts 3 and 4. Tighten the oil pump bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pump bolts to 9 N.m (80 lb in).


NOTE: The oil pump bolts must be retightened after the generator mounting bolt has been tightened to specifications to allow for uniform compression of the oil pump gasket.

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20. Install the rear timing belt cover. Refer to Rear Timing Belt Cover Replacement.






OIL PUMP SEAL REPLACEMENT

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Tools Required


Removal Procedure

Fig. 292: Removing Oil Pump Seal Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Using a seal remover or screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.

2. Ensure that the seal bore is clean and free of debris. Clean if necessary.


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1. Install the oil seal.

2. Use the J 35268-A to tap the front main oil seal into place.


2. Apply a thin film of oil to the new seal lip.

CRANKCASE VENT HOUSING REPLACEMENT

IMPORTANT: Always ensure that the oil pump cover is properly supported when installing the seal.

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Removal Procedure




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3. Remove the bank 1 (rear) intake runner.

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4. Disconnect the throttle body electrical connection.

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5. Disconnect the electrical connection and remove the vacuum hoses from the intake plenum switch-over valve solenoid.

6. Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.

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7. Remove the front intake plenum-to-runner hose clamp and plenum bolts.

8. Remove the EGR manifold bolts.

9. Lift the plenum and remove the throttle body heater hoses.



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11. Disconnect the rear coil connection.

12. Disconnect the oil separator hose, vacuum line and remove the coolant line bracket from the crankcase vent housing.

13. Remove the crankcase vent housing flange bolts and remove the housing.

14. Clean the ventilation housing and sealing flange on the engine block.

IMPORTANT: To ensure the positive sealing of flange sealant, thoroughly clean all mating surfaces.

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15. Inspect the rubber reed valve for cracks and proper function. Replace the reed valve, if defective.



1. Apply sealing compound LOCTITE® 518, or equivalent, to the sealing surfaces.

2. Install the ventilation housing to the engine block.

IMPORTANT: Located within the ventilation housing is a one-way reed valve. The reed valve maintains a positive crankcase pressure.

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3. Install the ventilation housing bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the ventilation housing bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

4. Connect the oil separator hose, vacuum line and install the coolant line bracket to the vent housing.

5. Connect the rear coil electrical connection.


6. Remove the tape from the intake ports and install the intake plenum into the front intake runner.


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7. Lift the intake plenum and install the throttle body heater hoses to the underside of the throttle body.

8. Lower the intake plenum and install the plenum and EGR manifold bolts.

Tighten:

Tighten the intake plenum bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

Tighten the EGR manifold bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


9. Install the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose.

10. Connect the intake plenum switch-over valve solenoid electrical connection and vacuum hoses.

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11. Connect the throttle body electrical connection.

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12. Install the bank 1 (rear) intake runner.

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13. Install the intake hose assembly.



OIL COOLER REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure

1. Remove the intake manifold and spacer. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement.

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2. Remove the coolant intake hose.

3. Remove the heater hose.

Fig. 306: Removing & Installing Coolant Bridge & Identifying Seal Locations Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Remove the coolant bridge bolts.

5. Remove the coolant bridge upper seals.


7. Remove the coolant bridge lower seals.

8. Remove the oil feed line from the engine oil cooler.

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9. Remove the return line from the engine oil cooler.

10. Take note of the 4 seals.

11. Remove the engine oil cooler line clamp.


Fig. 307: Removing & Installing Crank Sensor


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13. Remove the crank sensor bolt.

14. Remove the crank sensor.

Fig. 308: Exploded View Of Oil Filter Cap & Filter Element Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

15. Remove the oil filter cap and the filter element.

16. Remove the oil filter housing.

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Fig. 309: Locating Oil Feed & Return Lines At Engine Block Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

17. Remove the oil feed line from the engine block.

18. Remove the return line from the engine block.


20. Remove the oil feed line.

21. Remove the return line.

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Fig. 310: Removing & Installing Oil Cooler Inlet & Outlet Nuts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

22. Remove the engine oil cooler inlet and outlet nuts.

23. Remove the engine oil cooler cover bolt.

24. Remove the engine oil cooler cover.

25. Remove the engine oil cooler.



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Fig. 311: Applying Bead Of Silicone Sealer In Groove Around Engine Oil Cooler Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the engine oil cooler and O-rings.

2. Apply a 2 mm (5/64 in) bead of silicone sealer P/N 12378521, or equivalent, in the groove around the engine oil cooler cover.

3. Install the engine oil cooler cover.

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Fig. 312: Engine Oil Cooler Cover Bolts Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Install the engine oil cooler cover bolts. Torque in the sequence shown.

Tighten: Tighten the engine oil cooler cover bolt to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).

5. Install the engine oil cooler inlet and outlet nuts.

Tighten: Tighten the engine oil cooler inlet and outlet nut to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).


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6. Install the oil feed line.

7. Install the return line.




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9. Install the oil feed line to the engine block.

Tighten: Tighten the oil cooler feed and return lines to engine block to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).

10. Install the return line to the engine block.

Tighten: Tighten the oil cooler feed and return lines to engine block to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).


11. Install the O-ring onto the oil filter housing.

12. Install the oil filter housing onto the engine block and tighten.

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Tighten: Tighten the oil filter cartridge housing-to-engine to 45 N.m (33 lb ft).

13. Install the oil filter element, the O-ring, and the oil filter cap onto the housing.

Tighten: Tighten the oil filter cap to 15 N.m (11 lb ft).

Fig. 315: Removing & Installing Crank Sensor Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

14. Install the crank sensor.

15. Install the crank sensor bolt.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft position sensor bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

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Fig. 316: Removing & Installing Oil Feed & Return Lines At Engine Oil Cooler Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.


17. Install the oil feed and install the return lines to the engine oil cooler. Use 4 new seals.

Tighten: Tighten the oiler cooler feed and return lines to engine block to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).

18. Install the engine oil cooler line clamp.

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19. Install the coolant bridge and install the coolant bridge lower seals.

20. Install the coolant bridge upper seals and the coolant bridge bolts.


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Fig. 318: Removing & Installing Coolant Intake Housing & O-Ring Seal Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

21. Install the coolant intake housing and install the coolant intake housing O-ring seal.

22. Install the coolant intake housing bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the coolant intake housing bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

23. Install the intake manifold and spacer. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement.

24. Check and fill the engine oil as necessary.

DRAINING FLUIDS AND OIL FILTER REMOVAL

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Fig. 319: Removing Oil Drain Plug Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the oil drain plug.


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INTAKE PLENUM REMOVAL

Removal Procedure

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1. Remove the runner clamps at the rear of the plenum.

2. Remove the runners.

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3. Remove the intake plenum bolts.


5. Remove the intake seals.

INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL

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1. Remove the intake manifold bolts.




5. Remove the sealing rings.

NOTE: Notice: Mask off the ports to the intake manifold spacer. Failure to mask off the ports may allow foreign objects to enter the engine resulting in severe damage to the engine..

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6. Clean the manifold sealing surfaces with a nonabrasive tool or solvent.

WATER CROSSOVER REMOVAL


1. Remove the coolant intake housing and O-ring seal.

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2. Remove the coolant intake hose.

3. Remove the heater hose.

4. Remove the coolant bridge bolts.

5. Remove the coolant bridge upper seals.


7. Remove the coolant bridge lower seals.

EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL

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Fig. 326: Removing & Installing Front Oxygen Sensor & Front Exhaust Manifold Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the front oxygen sensor.

2. Remove the front exhaust manifold nuts.

3. Remove the front exhaust manifold.

4. Remove the front exhaust manifold gasket.

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Fig. 327: Removing & Installing Rear Oxygen Sensor & Rear Exhaust Manifold Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Remove the rear oxygen sensor.

6. Remove the rear exhaust manifold nuts.

7. Remove the rear exhaust manifold.

8. Remove the rear exhaust manifold gasket.

CRANKCASE VENT HOUSING REMOVAL

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1. Remove the hoses from the chamber.

2. Remove the chamber bolts.

3. Remove the chamber.

4. Remove the gasket material.

DRIVE BELT TENSIONER REMOVAL

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1. Loosen the following before removing the drive belt if removing the front timing belt cover:

Loosen the water pump pulley bolts.

Loosen the power steering pump pulley bolts.

2. Use a wrench on the center bolt of the tensioner pulley to rotate it downward.

3. Remove the belt from the tensioner.

4. Remove the belt from the accessory drive pulleys.

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5. Remove the belt tensioner bolts.

6. Remove the tensioner from the engine.

CRANKSHAFT BALANCER REMOVAL

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1. Remove the crankshaft balancer bolts.

2. Remove the crankshaft balancer.

TIMING BELT COVER REMOVAL - FRONT

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1. Remove the water pump pulley bolts.

2. Remove the water pump pulley.

3. Remove the power steering pump pulley bolts.

4. Remove the power steering pump pulley.

5. Remove the wire harness channel.

6. Remove the front timing belt cover bolts.

7. Remove the front timing belt cover.

CAMSHAFT COVER REMOVAL

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Fig. 333: Identifying Camshaft Cover Seals & O-Rings Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.




CAMSHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET REMOVAL

IMPORTANT: Ensure that all 8 sealing O-rings are accounted for. O-rings may stick to camshaft bearing caps. O-rings may fall into the oil return journals in the cylinder head.

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Tools Required




Fig. 334: Installation Of Special Tools For Camshaft Drive Sprocket Removal Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the J 42065 and remove the crank hub TORX using the J 42098 .

2. Remove the crankshaft drive gear bolt and discard.

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3. Install the kit tool J 42069-1, found within the J 42069 , between the camshaft gear 1 and 2 to hold the camshaft gears in place while removing the bolt.

4. Install the kit tool J 42069-2, found with the J 42069 , between the camshaft gear 3 and 4 to hold the camshaft gears in place while removing the bolt.


5. Loosen the timing belt tensioner.

IMPORTANT: Some lobes on the camshafts may be under load from the lifters. Rotate the camshafts carefully until the camshafts are no longer under a load if applicable.

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6. Remove the timing belt.

Fig. 336: Removing & Installing Camshaft Gear & Crankshaft Drive Gear Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Remove the camshaft gear bolts and discard.

IMPORTANT: Do not rotate the crankshaft if the camshaft is not locked in place with 1-2 and 3-4 camshaft locks, J 42069 and J 42069-2.

IMPORTANT: Do not rotate the camshafts unless the crankshaft is at 60 degrees BTDC or valves may contact the pistons.

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8. Remove the camshaft gear washers.

9. Remove the J 42069 tools.

10. Remove the camshaft gears.

11. Remove the drive gear.

TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY REMOVAL



2. Remove the timing belt bracket tensioner.

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WATER PUMP REMOVAL

Fig. 338: Removing & Installing Water Pump Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the water pump bolts.

2. Remove the water pump and the seal.

TIMING BELT COVER REMOVAL - REAR

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1. Remove the rear timing belt cover bolts.

2. Unclip the knock sensor wires.

3. Remove the rear timing belt cover.

THERMOSTAT HOUSING/THERMOSTAT REMOVAL

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Fig. 340: Removing & Installing Coolant Pipe Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the coolant pipe by twisting.

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Fig. 341: Identifying Coolant Pipe O-Ring Seals Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Remove the O-ring seals from the pipe.

3. Discard the O-rings.

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Fig. 342: Removing & Installing Thermostat Housing Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Remove the thermostat housing bolts.

5. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat.

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Fig. 343: Removing & Installing Thermostat From Thermostat Housing Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Remove the thermostat from the thermostat housing.

7. Remove the O-ring seal from the thermostat housing and discard.

OIL FILTER HOUSING REMOVAL

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CAMSHAFT REMOVAL

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1. Remove the camshaft bearing cap bolts using the loosening sequence.

2. Remove the camshaft bearing caps.

3. Remove the camshafts.

NOTE: Camshaft bearing caps are marked with an L or an R followed by a number. The caps marked with an L are on the rear Bank 1 cylinder head. The caps marked with an R are on the front Bank 2 cylinder head. Do not interchange the caps, or damage to the cylinder head and/or the camshafts may result.

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4. Remove the camshaft seals.

OIL COOLER REMOVAL


1. Remove the oil cooler pipe fittings from the oil cooler.

2. Remove the oil cooler pipe seals from the oil cooler.

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3. Remove the oil cooler pipe fittings from the engine block.

4. Remove the oil cooler pipes from the engine.

IMPORTANT: The oil filter housing must be removed to allow access to the oil cooler pipe fittings.

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5. Remove the engine oil cooler inlet nuts.

6. Remove the engine oil cooler outlet nut.

7. Remove the engine oil cooler cover bolts.

8. Remove the engine oil cooler cover.

9. Remove the engine oil cooler.

10. Remove and discard the oil cooler inlet/outlet O-ring seals.

OIL PAN REMOVAL

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Tools Required

SA9123E Gasket Seal Cutter


1. Remove the nose cone bracket bolts from the oil pan.

2. Remove the lower transaxle flange to the oil pan bolts.

IMPORTANT: The LS L81 uses RTV to seal the oil pan to the engine block - not a gasket as shown in a typical oil pan representation.

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4. Use the pry points to break loose the seal. Bump the pan with a rubber mallet to loosen the pan from the engine block.


CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL

IMPORTANT: When removing the oil pan, use only the designated pry points to prevent damage to the sealing flange. A SA9123E may be used to break the oil pan loose from the engine block, if necessary.

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Fig. 350: Cylinder Head Bolt Loosening SequenceCourtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the cylinder head bolts in the loosening sequence as shown.

2. Remove the cylinder heads.

3. Remove the cylinder head gaskets.

OIL PUMP REMOVAL

Fig. 351: Removing & Installing Oil Pump Pipe & Screen Assembly

IMPORTANT: Tap the TORX socket to fully seat into the bolt.

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1. Remove the oil pump pickup tube.

2. Remove the oil baffle.


3. Remove the oil pump bolts.

4. Remove the oil pump.

5. Remove the front main oil seal and collar from the oil pump.

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CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL REMOVAL

Fig. 353: Identifying Self-Tapping Screw Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Center punch the steel ring crankshaft rear oil seal.

2. Carefully drill a small, shallow, pilot hole into the steel ring of the crankshaft rear oil seal.


4. Use pliers to pull the crankshaft rear oil seal out.

CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS REMOVAL

IMPORTANT: Use caution when drilling the hole so as not to damage the engine components on the opposite side of the crankshaft rear oil seal.

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Fig. 354: Identifying Crankshaft Bearing Bridge Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the crankshaft bearing bridge bolts.

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Fig. 355: Identifying Main Bearing Cap Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Remove the main bearing cap bolts.

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Fig. 356: Removing & Installing Crankshaft Bearing Bridge Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Remove the crankshaft bearing bridge.

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Fig. 357: Removing Main Bearing Caps, Inserts & Crankshaft Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Remove the first main bearing cap.

5. Remove the first main bearing cap lower insert.

6. Remove the second main bearing cap.

7. Remove the second main bearing cap lower insert.

8. Remove the third main bearing cap.

9. Remove the third main bearing cap lower insert.

10. Perform the following steps to remove the fourth main bearing cap.

1. Insert a bolt into the main bearing cap oil pan threaded hole or pry the crankshaft and the drain

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bearing cap from the block using the pry bar at each end of the flywheel.

2. Use a pry bar to pry the cap from the block.

3. Remove the fourth main bearing cap.

4. Remove the fourth main bearing cap lower insert.

Fig. 358: Removing Crankshaft Reluctor Ring Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

11. Carefully remove the crankshaft from the engine block.

12. Remove the crankshaft reluctor ring bolts.

13. Remove the crankshaft reluctor ring.

14. Remove the crankcase ventilation baffle from the #4 upper main bearing journal.

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PISTON, CONNECTING ROD, AND BEARING REMOVAL

Fig. 359: Locating Rod Bearing Cap Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Rotate the crankshaft until the rod bearing cap bolts are accessible.

2. Remove the rod bearing cap bolts.

3. Remove the rod bearing cap.

IMPORTANT: Install the rod cap to the rod when the piston is removed from the engine block. The rod and the cap are not interchangeable. The mating surfaces must be protected from damage.

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4. Use a block of wood or use a soft material to drive each piston out of the cylinder.

Fig. 360: Identifying Rod Bearing Cap Insert Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Remove the rod bearing cap insert.

ENGINE BLOCK CLEANING AND INSPECTION

NOTE: Do not wipe rod cap mating surfaces with a rag. Lint or foreign debris will not allow proper surface contact.

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Fig. 361: Using Cylinder Bore Gage To Measure Cylinder Bore Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Clean the following components:

Use solvent to clean the engine block.

Clean the gasket surfaces.

Clean the coolant passages.

Clean the oil passages.

2. Inspect the following for cracks:

Inspect the cylinder walls for cracks.

Replace the engine block if any cracks are evident.

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Inspect the coolant jackets for cracks.


Inspect the main bearing insert cavities for cracks.


3. Inspect for the following in the cylinder walls:

Inspect for gouges in the cylinder walls if deeper than 0.05 mm (0.002 in).

Bore the cylinder if the gouges are deeper than 0.05 mm (0.002 in).

Inspect for pitting in the cylinder wall if deeper than 0.05 mm (0.002 in).

Bore the cylinder if pitting is deeper than 0.05 mm (0.002 in).

Inspect for scores if the cylinder wall is deeper than 0.05 mm (0.002 in).

Bore the cylinder if scores are deeper than 0.05 mm (0.002 in).

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Fig. 362: Identifying Cylinder Wear & Taper Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Use a cylinder bore gage to measure the cylinder bore for the following conditions:

Measure for wear.

Measure for taper.

Measure for runout.

Measure for ridging.

5. If wear and/or taper is less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in), the cylinder must be reconditioned. Recondition the cylinders with less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in) of wear and/or taper with a hone and fit with the appropriate size select fit piston, providing the cylinder was not fitted with the largest size select fit piston. If wear and/or taper is over 0.05 mm (0.002 in) the cylinder must be bored.

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CYLINDER BORING AND HONING

Tools Required

SA9171E Flex Hone

1. Bore cylinders to within 0.005 mm (0.0002 in) of desired size using 120-150 grit stones.

2. Finish hone to desired size by removing 0.005 mm (0.0002 in) left in the following second step using 320 grit stones.

Refer to Piston Selection for the correct size piston to use for each cylinder.

CAUTION: Do not allow hone to come out of the cylinder bore while it is turning. The stones could be released and cause injury.

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Fig. 363: Correctly Honed Cylinder Wall Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Hone the cylinder bore using a 10W-30 or 5W-30 weight motor oil and the SA9171E .

4. Make sure the flex hone is slowly rotating upon entry and removal from the cylinder bore.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the crankshaft pulley/damper keyway is at the 3 or 9 o'clock position to prevent damage of the crankshaft connecting rod journals during honing.

IMPORTANT: The recommended speed of the flex hone is 150-200 RPM. Do not use air pressure driven or high-speed tools.

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5. Use 60 strokes per minute. Honing time should be approximately 20 seconds or 20 strokes per cylinder to develop a 45-50 degree, included angle, honing cross-hatch. One stroke consists of a full downward and upward motion of the flex hone in the cylinder bore.

6. Thoroughly scrub the cylinder bores after honing with a scrub brush, a strong solution of hot water and Tide® powder laundry detergent, or equivalent. Thoroughly rinse with hot clean water, high-pressure if available.

7. Dry the cylinder bores and wipe them with a clean white towel saturated with engine oil. Dark residual grit on the towel after wiping the cylinder bore indicates the bores are not clean. The cleaning process in step 6 must be repeated until the towel is free of all dark residual grit.

CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS CLEANING AND INSPECTION

IMPORTANT: If the cylinder bores are not thoroughly cleaned, the residual grit from the honing stones will wear out the piston rings and the cylinder bores extremely fast, resulting in oil consumption. Never use solvent to clean cylinder bores. It will only redistribute the grit on the cylinder walls. Detergent and hot water will carry the grit away.

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Fig. 364: Measuring Crankshaft Rod Journals Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Use solvent to clean the crankshaft.

2. Use compressed air to dry the crankshaft.

3. Use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft rod journals in 2 locations on the front edge for the following conditions:

Measure for out-of-round.

Measure for taper.

Measure for wear.

The rod journal diameter (STD).

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Specifications: The rod journal diameter is 48.971-48.987 mm (1.927-1.928 in).

4. Use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft rod journals in the middle for the following conditions:


Measure for taper.

Measure for wear.

Rod journal diameter (STD).


5. Use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft rod journals in 2 locations on the rear edge for the following conditions:


Measure for taper.

Measure for wear.

Rod journal diameter (STD).


6. Use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft main journals in 2 locations on the front edge for the following conditions:


Measure for taper.

Measure for undersize.

Main journal maximum out-of-round.

Specifications: The main journal maximum out-of-round is 0.03 mm (0.0012 in).

Refer to Engine General Information.

7. Use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft main journals in the middle for the following conditions:


Measure for taper.





8. Use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft main journals in 2 locations on the rear edge for the following conditions:


Measure for taper.

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Fig. 365: Measuring Crankshaft Run-Out Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

9. Use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft run-out at the front intermediate journals and use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft run-out at the rear intermediate journals. Perform the measurement with the crankshaft in the engine block or perform the measurement by supporting the crankshaft front

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and rear journals on V-blocks.

10. Replace or recondition the crankshaft if the measurements are not within specifications.

11. Inspect the crankshaft fit.

12. Inspect the upper half of the crankshaft bearing.

13. Replace the upper half and the lower half if the upper half is worn and/or damaged.

14. Inspect the lower half of the crankshaft bearing.

15. Replace the upper half and the lower half if the lower half is worn and/or damaged.

Fig. 366: Measuring Crankshaft Bearing Clearance With Gaging Plastic Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

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16. Perform the following steps to measure the crankshaft bearing:

Place a piece of gaging plastic full width of the crankshaft bearing onto the journal.

Measure all 5 bearing clearances at the same time.

IMPORTANT: Measure the clearance of each crankshaft bearing to determine the proper sizes. Factory installed crankshaft bearings may not be the same size for each journal and/or the block bearing may be of a different size than the cap bearings. Also, check the appropriate color coding of the bearings. Return the bearings to their EXACT location if the bearings are to be reused. The cap bearings for the numbers 2 and 3 do not have oil journals.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT rotate the crankshaft while gaging plastic is between the journal and the crankshaft bearing.

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Fig. 367: Identifying Main Bearing Cap Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

17. Install the crankshaft bearing caps exactly as removed.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap to 50 N.m (37 lb ft) plus 60 degrees plus 15 degrees.

18. Install the crankshaft torsional bearing bridge exactly as removed with the arrow pointing toward the front of the engine.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft bearing bridge bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).


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Fig. 368: Identifying Crankshaft Bearing Bridge Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

19. Remove the crankshaft torsional bearing bridge.

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20. Remove the crankshaft torsional bearing caps.

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Fig. 370: Measuring Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

21. Use the scale provided with gaging plastic to measure the gaging plastic at its widest point.

22. Replace with a standard bearing if gaging plastic shows an irregularity in the crankshaft's main bearing clearance exceeding the bearing clearance specification or if an excessive clearance is evident and the crankshaft's main journal is within specification.

23. Always replace both the upper and the lower crankshaft bearings as a set.

24. Regrind the crankshaft for use with an undersize bearing if the clearance can not be brought to specifications.

25. Crankshaft bearings are available for service in the standard size and 2 under sizes.

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Fig. 371: Measuring Crankshaft End Play Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

26. Perform the following steps to measure the crankshaft's end play:

1. Install the crankshaft bearing caps.

2. Install the crankshaft torsional bearing bridge.

3. Mount a dial indicator onto the back of the engine block.

4. Move the crankshaft forward and move the crankshaft rearward.

5. Note the total movement.

6. The crankshafts end play clearance specification is 0.01-0.76 mm (0.0004-0.0300 in).

7. Replace the thrust bearing if the clearance is not within specification.

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PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD DISASSEMBLE

Tools Required

SA9101E Piston Pin Remover/Installer

Fig. 372: Removing/Installing Piston Rings Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Disassemble the piston rings from the piston using a piston ring expander.

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Fig. 373: Using SA9101E To Remove Piston Pin From Connecting Rod Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Remove the piston ring clips.

3. Use the SA9101E to disassemble the piston pin from the connecting rod, if necessary.

4. Disassemble the piston from the connecting rod.

PISTON, CONNECTING ROD, AND BEARINGS CLEANING AND INSPECTION

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Fig. 374: Cleaning Piston Ring Groove Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Use cleaning solvent to clean the connecting rod.

2. Use cleaning solvent to clean the pistons if reusing the piston. DO NOT wire brush the piston skirt or the ring groove area.

3. Use cleaning solvent to clean the piston pins if reusing the piston pins. New pistons contain new piston pins.

4. Use a groove cleaner or broken ring to clean the piston ring groove.

IMPORTANT: Use compressed air to dry the connecting rod. DO NOT use shop towel or rag to clean the rod cap and the rod mating surfaces.

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Fig. 375: Inspecting Connecting Rod Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Inspect the connecting rod for the following conditions:

Inspect for twists. Replace if damage is evident.

Inspect for nicks. Replace if damage is evident.

Inspect for cracks. Replace if damage is evident.

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Fig. 376: Measuring Piston Pin Diameter & Piston Pin Bore Diameter Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Inspect the pistons for the following conditions:

Inspect for cracked skirts.

Inspect for cracked piston pin bosses.

Inspect for cracked ring groove lands.

Inspect for nicks that may cause binding.

Inspect for burrs that may cause binding.

Inspect for warped ring groove lands.

Inspect for worn ring groove lands.

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Inspect for eroded areas on top of the piston.

Inspect for worn piston pin bores.

Replace the piston if any of the above is evident.

7. Measure the piston ring groove clearance.

8. Replace the piston if the ring groove clearance is not within the proper specification.

Specifications: The 1st and 2nd compression ring groove clearance specification is 0.02-0.04 mm (0.0008-0.0015 in).

9. Replace the piston if the ring groove clearance is not within the proper specification.

Specifications: The oil control ring groove clearance specification is 0.01-0.02 mm (0.0004-0.0012 in).

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Fig. 377: Measuring Piston Pin Diameter & Piston Pin Bore Diameter Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

10. Use a micrometer and an inside micrometer to measure the piston pin bore-to-piston pin clearance. The maximum clearance is 0.003-0.008 mm (0.0001-0.0003 in).

11. Replace the piston and replace the pin if the pin bore-to-piston pin clearance is beyond the proper specification.

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Fig. 378: Measuring Piston Ring End Gap Clearance In Cylinder Bore Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

12. Measure the piston ring end gap clearance in the bore. Perform only after the cylinder has been honed.

13. Replace the piston rings if the end gap clearance is not within the proper specification.

Specifications: The 1st and 2nd compression ring gap specification is 0.30-0.50 mm (0.0118-0.0196 in).

14. Replace the piston rings if the end gap clearance is not within the proper specification.

Specifications: The oil control ring end gap specification is 0.40-1.40 mm (0.0157-0.0551 in).

PISTON SELECTION

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Select the proper size piston for each cylinder bore after cylinder has been honed.

Measure the cylinder bore. Refer to the table below for the correct size piston to use for that cylinder.

Piston Selection

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLE

Tools Required

SA9101E Piston Pin Remover/Installer

Piston IDCylinder Borer Piston Size

mm Inches mm Inches(8) 85.975-85.985 3.3848-3.3852 85.940-85.950 3.3834-3.3838(99) 85.985-85.995 3.3852-3.3856 85.950-85.960 3.3838-3.3842(00) 85.995-86.005 3.3856-3.3860 85.960-85.970 3.3842-3.3846(01) 86.005-86.015 3.3860-3.3864 85.970-85.980 3.3846-3.3850(02) 86.015-86.025 3.3864-3.3868 85.980-85.990 3.3850-3.3854

7 + 0.5 Cylinder must be bored

oversized 86.465-86.475 3.4041-3.4045 86.430-86.440 3.4027-3.4031

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Fig. 379: Assembling Piston Rings On Piston Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Perform the following steps to assemble the piston assembly to the connecting rod.

2. Install the oil ring expander and the 2 side rails by hand.

Align the number 1 compression ring gap at 6 o'clock (1).

Align number 2 compression ring gap at 12 o'clock (2).

Align the upper oil control side rail gap at 1 o'clock (3).

IMPORTANT: The arrow on the top of the piston must point toward the front of the engine.

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Align the oil ring spacer expander at 9 o'clock (4).

Align the lower oil control side rail gap at 5 o'clock (5).

Fig. 380: Identifying Bumps On Connecting Rod That Must Face Flexplate Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Assemble the piston to the connecting rod.

IMPORTANT: The bumps on the connecting rod must face toward the flex plate.

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Fig. 381: Installing Piston Pin To Connecting Rod & Piston Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Use the SA9101E to assemble the piston pin to the connecting rod and the piston, if necessary.

IMPORTANT: The arrow on the piston points toward the front of the engine and the bump on the connecting rod faces toward the rear of the engine.

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Fig. 382: Arrow On Piston Points Toward Front Of Engine & Bump On Connecting Rod Faces Toward Rear Of Engine Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Install the piston pin clips in the piston.

CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Tool Required

J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator

1. Clean the camshaft in solvent.

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2. Dry the camshaft with compressed air.

3. Inspect the camshaft for the following conditions:

Worn, scored, or damaged bearing journals

Worn camshaft lobes

Damaged sprocket pin

Fig. 383: Measure Camshaft Journals With Micrometer Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Measure the camshaft journals with a micrometer 27.939-27.960 mm (1.099-1.101 in).

5. Measure for a bent camshaft or excessive camshaft runout using J 7872 .

1. Mount the camshaft in V-blocks between centers.

CAUTION: Refer to SAFETY GLASSES CAUTION in Cautions and Notices.

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2. Use the J 7872 in order to measure for a bent camshaft. Radial runout 0.06 mm (0.0023 in).

6. Replace the camshaft if runout exceeds specifications.

7. Inspect the camshaft bearings and bearing cap surfaces for the following:

Wear

Scoring

Overheating from lack of lubrication

8. Inspect the bearing clearances with gaging plastic.

Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.

9. Inspect the camshaft for excessive end play.

10. The camshaft bearing surfaces are machined into the cylinder head and are not serviceable.

CYLINDER HEAD DISASSEMBLE

Tools Required

J 43963 Valve Spring Compressor (Off Vehicle)

SA9102E-A Valve Seal Remover/Installer

SA9124E Valve Spring Compressor/Remover

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Fig. 384: Using Valve Spring Compressor To Compress Valve Springs Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the lifters. Place the lifters sequentially in the rack so that they can be installed in their original order, if being reused.

2. Use the SA9124E and J 43963 to compress the valve springs.

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Fig. 385: Exploded View Of Valve Assemblies Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Remove the valve stem keys.

4. Remove the cap from the valve stem.

5. Remove the valve spring.

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Fig. 386: Removing Valve Seal Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Remove the valve seal using the SA9102E-A .

7. Remove the valve spring seat from the cylinder head.

8. Remove the valves. Place the valves sequentially in the rack so that they can be installed in their original order, if being reused.

CYLINDER HEAD CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Tools Required

J 8001 Dial Indicator Set

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J 42096 Valve Guide Reamer

SA91101NE Feeler Gage Set

SA9177NE Straight Edge (24 in)

SA9183NE Spring Tester. See Special Tools and Equipment.

Fig. 387: Turning Crankshaft Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Clean the top of the pistons and the top of the block:

1. Turn the crankshaft and bring each piston to top dead center (TDC). Using a gasket scraper, remove all of the carbon from the piston top.

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2. Remove all gasket material from the top of the block using a plastic or wood scraper.

3. Blow carbon and oil from the bolt holes.

Fig. 388: Removing All Gasket Material From Manifold & Head Surfaces Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

IMPORTANT: Cover the front of the engine with a shop towel to prevent debris from entering the engine.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses when using compressed air in order to prevent eye injury.

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2. To remove gasket material, use a plastic or wood gasket scraper. Remove all gasket material from the manifold and head surfaces.

Fig. 389: Using Wire Brush To Remove All Carbon From Combustion Chambers Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

NOTE: Intake and exhaust manifold stud threads can be damaged during removal and must be replaced when a new machined cylinder head casting is installed.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the aluminum the aluminum cylinder head and block gasket sealing surfaces when removing the cylinder head or during cleaning.

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3. Using a wire brush, remove all carbon from the combustion chambers.

Fig. 390: Cleaning Valve Guide Bushings Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Using a valve guide brush and solvent, clean all of the valve guide bushings.

5. Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean the cylinder head:

Intake and exhaust parts

Intake and exhaust valve seats

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Fig. 391: Inspecting Cylinder Head For Warpage Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness. Using a precision SA9177NE and SA91101NE , measure the surfaces contacting the cylinder block and manifolds for warpage. If warpage is greater than the maximum, replace the cylinder head.

Specifications: The maximum warpage cylinder block side is 0.025 mm/100 mm (0.0010 in/3.917 in).

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Fig. 392: Using Dye Penetrant To Check Combustion Chamber Intake & Exhaust Ports, Head Surface & Top Of Head For Cracks Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks. Using a dye penetrant, check the combustion chamber intake and exhaust ports, head surface, and the top of the head for cracks. If cracked, replace the cylinder head.

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Fig. 393: Cleaning Valve Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. Inspect the valve spring. Using calipers, measure the height of the valve spring at 4 locations. If the spring is bent, replace it.

Specifications: The intake and exhaust valve squareness service limit is 1.58 mm (0.0622 in) maximum.

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Fig. 394: Measuring Valve Spring Free Length Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

9. Inspect the valve spring again. Using calipers, measure the free length of the valve spring. If the free length is not within specification, replace the valve spring.

Specifications: The free length standard is 39.2 mm (1.543 in) minimum.

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Fig. 395: Measuring Valve Spring Tension Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

10. Using a SA9183NE , or equivalent, fully collapse the spring 3 times, then measure the tension of the intake and exhaust valve springs at the specified installed length. See Special Tools and Equipment. If the installed tension is not as specified, replace the valve spring.

Specifications: The standard is 34 mm (1.338 in) at 252 N (56.6 lb).

11. Clean the valves.

1. Using a gasket scraper or wire brush, remove all carbon from the valve head.

2. Using a wire brush, thoroughly clean the valve.

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Fig. 396: Inspecting Valve Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

12. Inspect the valve stems and guides for wear, scratches, and burrs.

NOTE: Small scratches, scores, or scuffs on the valve stem will damage and wear out the valve stem seal. Always lubricate the valve guide and valve stem before installing a new valve stem seal. If a valve stem seal is removed after installation, it must be discarded.

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Fig. 397: Inspecting Valve Stem-To-Valve Guide Clearance Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

13. Replace the spring if the spring length is less than 34 mm (1.338 in) when subjected to a compressive force of 252 N (56.6 lbs).

14. Perform the following steps to inspect the valve stem-to-valve guide clearance:

1. Clamp the J 8001 on the exhaust port side of the cylinder head.

2. Locate the indicator so that the movement of the valve stem from side to side, crosswise to cylinder head, will cause a direct movement of the indicator stem.

3. Measure the valve head with the valve protruding 10 mm (0.39 in) from the seat.

4. Drop the valve head about 10 mm (0.39 in) off the valve seat.

5. Use light pressure to move the stem of the valve from side to side to obtain a clearance reading.

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6. The intake valve clearance should be 0.03-0.057 mm (0.001-0.0022 in).

7. The exhaust valve clearance should be 0.03-0.057 mm (0.001-0.0022 in).

Fig. 398: Measuring Valve Clearance Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

15. Measure the valve stem in 3 locations. If the valve clearance is out of specifications, then compare the lowest measurement to the specifications below. Replace the valve if the valve stem is out of specification:

Specifications:

The intake valve stem is 5.955-5.970 mm (0.2344-0.235 in).

The exhaust valve stem is 5.945-5.960 mm (0.234-0.2346 in).

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16. Ream the valve guide and use an oversized valve if the valve stem is not within the specification, using J 42096 .

CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLE

Tools Required

J 41775 Valve Seal Installer

J 43963 Valve Spring Compressor

SA9102E-A Valve Seal Remover/Installer

Fig. 399: Inserting Valve Seal

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1. Coat the valve stem with engine oil.

2. Insert the valve stem into the proper port.

3. Install the valve spring seat.

4. Use the J 41775 to insert the valve seal into the cylinder head.

Fig. 400: Using Valve Spring Compressor To Compress Valve Springs Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Install the valve spring.

6. Install the cap on the valve stem.

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7. Use the SA9102E-A and J 43963 to compress the valve spring.

8. Perform the following steps to install the valve stem keys:

1. Use a light grease to hold the keys in place while removing the SA9102E-A and J 43963 .

2. Seat the valve stem keys in the upper groove of the valve stem.

9. Install the lifter.

10. Repeat the above sequence for the remaining valves.

OIL PUMP DISASSEMBLE

Fig. 401: Removing & Installing Oil Pressure Regulator Valve Plug, Seal, Valve & Spring

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1. Remove the oil pressure regulator valve plug, seal, valve and spring.

Fig. 402: Removing & Installing Oil Pressure Relief Valve Plug, Seal, Spring & Valve Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug, seal, spring and valve.

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Fig. 403: Removing & Installing Oil Pump Cover Bolts & Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Remove the oil pump cover bolts and cover.

4. Remove the oil pump drive and driven rotor.

OIL PUMP INSPECTION

Tools Required

SA91101NE Feeler Gage Set

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Fig. 404: Measuring Pump Body-To-Driven Rotor Clearance Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Inspect the body clearance:

1. Using a SA91101NE or equivalent, measure the clearance between the driven rotor and the pump body.

Specification: The service limit body to side clearance maximum is 0.277 mm (0.011 in).

2. If the clearance is greater than the maximum, replace the oil pump assembly.

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Fig. 405: Measuring Clearance Between Both Rotor Tips Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Inspect the tip clearance.

Using a SA91101NE or equivalent, measure the clearance between both rotor tips.

Specification: The standard clearance maximum is 0.15 mm (0.006 in).

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Fig. 406: Inspecting Inner & Outer Gear To Housing Clearance Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Inspect the inner end outer gear to housing clearance.

Using a SA91101NE , Plastigage®, or equivalent and a straight edge, measure the oil pump inner and outer gear to housing clearance.

Specification:

The inner gear to housing service limit clearance is a maximum of 0.08 mm (0.003 in).

The outer gear to housing clearance service limit is a maximum of 0.10 mm (0.004 in).

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Fig. 407: Inspecting Oil Pressure Regulating Valve, Oil Pressure Relief Valve & Springs Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Inspect the oil pressure regulating valve, oil pressure relief valve, and the springs for wear and damage.

5. Check the oil pump pressure regulating valve and the oil pressure relief valve for free movement in bores.

6. Replace if worn, damaged, or if the valves do not move freely in the bores.

OIL PUMP ASSEMBLE

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Fig. 408: Removing & Installing Oil Pump Cover Bolts & Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the oil pump drive and driven rotor.

2. Install the oil pump cover and bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pump cover bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


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Fig. 409: Removing & Installing Oil Pressure Relief Valve Plug, Seal, Spring & Valve Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Install the oil pressure relief valve plug, seal, spring and valve.

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Fig. 410: Removing & Installing Oil Pressure Regulator Valve Plug, Seal, Valve & Spring Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Install the oil pressure regulator valve plug, seal, valve and spring.

THREAD REPAIR

Tools Required

General purpose thread repair kits. These kits are available commercially.

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Fig. 411: Drilling & Tapping Damaged Threads Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Determine the size, the pitch, and the depth of the damaged thread. If necessary, adjust the stop collars on the cutting tool and tap to the required depth.

2. Drill out the damaged threads. Clean out any chips.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.

IMPORTANT: Refer to the kit manufacturer's instructions regarding the size of the drill and tap to use. Avoid any buildup of chips. Back out the tap every few turns and remove the chips.

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3. Lubricate the tap with light engine oil. Tap the hole. Clean the threads.

Fig. 412: Installing Thread Insert Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Thread the thread insert onto the mandrel of the installer. Engage the tang of the insert onto the end of the mandrel.

5. Lubricate the insert with light engine oil (except when installing in aluminum) and install the insert.

6. If the tang of the insert does not break off when backing out the installer, break the tang off with a drift.

SERVICE PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY

IMPORTANT: The insert should be flush to one turn below the surface.

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Dirt or debris will cause premature wear of a rebuilt engine. Clean all components.

Use the proper tools to measure the components when checking for excessive wear. Components that are not within the manufacturer's specifications must be replaced or repaired.

When components are reinstalled into an engine, return the components to their original position, location, and direction.

During assembly, lubricate all moving parts with clean engine oil or engine assembly lubricant, unless otherwise specified. This will provide the initial lubrication when the engine is first started.

CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS SELECTION

The crankshaft main bearing caps are numbered 1, 2, 3 from the front of the engine. The rear bearing cap is not numbered and contains the thrust bearings. The number 2 and 3 main bearing shells do not have oil grooves on the cap sides.

There is a 0 or 1 stamped on the cylinder block oil pan mating flange near the end of each main bearing cap. This is the determining number. The determining number corresponds to each crankshaft main bearing size and color that will be installed.

The cylinder block main bearing journal diameter for a determining number of 0 is 72-72.0065 mm (2.83 in).

The cylinder block main bearing journal diameter for a determining number of 1 is 72.0065-72.013 mm (2.83-2.84 in).

The crankshaft main bearing size, selective fits, chart shows the color of bearing that must be used for the respective determining number stamp.

To select the correct main bearing size, determine the number stamp, determining number, for the respective main bearing journal on the oil pan mating flange (0 or 1) by doing the following:

1. Measure the crankshaft main bearing journal. Refer to the crankshaft main bearing size selective fits chart.

2. Select the correct determining number column.

3. Select the measured main bearing journal diameter range.

4. Select the block side color.

5. Select the cap side color.

CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS INSTALLATION

Tools Required

J 44628 Bearing Bridge Sleeve Wrench

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Fig. 413: Installing Crankshaft Reluctor Ring Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the crankshaft reluctor ring.

2. Install the crankshaft reluctor bolts. Use the new crankshaft sensor bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft reluctor ring screw to 15 N.m (11 lb ft).

3. Install the crankshaft bearings to the engine block.

4. Install the crankshaft to the engine block.


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Fig. 414: Applying RTV Sealer, LOCTITE® 5900 Or Equivalent To Fourth Main Bearing Cap Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Apply clean engine oil to the bearing surfaces.

6. Install the main bearings to the main bearing caps.

7. Apply RTV sealer, LOCTITE® 5900 or equivalent to the fourth main bearing cap.

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Fig. 415: Installing Main Bearing Caps In Numerical Order Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. Install the main bearing caps to the engine block. Place the main bearing caps in numerical order.

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9. Install the crankshaft bearing bridge.

10. Install the main bearing cap bolts loosely.

IMPORTANT: Orient the torsional bridge with the arrow pointing to the front of the engine.

NOTE: New main bearing cap bolts must be used or damage may occur when the final tightening is performed.

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11. Clean the old thread locking compound from the adjusting sleeves.

12. Back out the crankshaft bearing bridge adjusting sleeves until the bushings do not contact the engine block when the bridge is fully seated. Tighten the main bearing cap bolts in 3 passes.

Tighten:

1. First Pass:

Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).

2. Second Pass:

Plus 60 degrees

3. Final Pass:

Plus 15 degrees

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Fig. 417: Tightening Crankshaft Bearing Bridge Adjusting Sleeves Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

13. Apply the thread locking compound LOCTITE® 272 or equivalent to the crankshaft bearing bridge adjusting sleeves.

14. Tighten the crankshaft bearing bridge adjusting sleeves using the J 44628 .

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft bearing bridge adjusting sleeves to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

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Fig. 418: Tightening Outer Crankshaft Bearing Bridge Bolts Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

15. Tighten the outer crankshaft bearing bridge bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the outer crankshaft bearing bridge bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL INSTALLATION

Tools Required


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Fig. 419: Identifying J 42067 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Coat the lip of the crankshaft rear oil seal with clean engine oil.

2. Use the J 42067 to install the crankshaft rear oil seal.

PISTON, CONNECTING ROD, AND BEARING INSTALLATION

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Tools Required

J 41742 Connecting Rod Guide

J 43953 Piston Ring Compressor

Fig. 420: Installing Connecting Rod Guide (J 41742) Onto Connecting Rod Hole Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the J 41742 onto the connecting rod hole which will allow the guide pin to clear the crankshaft bearing bridge. Only 1 J 41742 is required to properly align the connecting rod with the crankshaft.

2. Install the upper rod bearing to the rod.

3. Coat the following components with clean engine oil:

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The piston

The piston rings

The cylinder bore

The bearing surfaces

Fig. 421: Installing Piston Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Perform the following steps to install the piston:

IMPORTANT: The bump on the connecting rod and the cap must face the rear of the block.

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1. Position the piston with the arrow on the piston head facing toward the front of the engine.

2. Use the J 43953 to compress the piston rings.

3. Place the piston in the cylinder.

4. Lightly tap the piston into the cylinder bore while an assistant guides the connecting rod onto the crankshaft.

5. Remove the J 41742 .

Fig. 422: Identifying Bumps On Connecting Rod That Must Face Flexplate Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

6. Perform the following steps to install the connecting rod caps with the bearings to the connecting rod:

1. Install with the bumps on the connecting rod and the cap facing toward the rear of the engine.

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2. Coat the bearing surface with clean engine oil.

7. Install the connecting rod cap bolts.

Tighten:

1. First Pass:

Tighten the connecting rod cap bolts to 35 N.m (26 lb ft).

2. Second Pass:

Plus 45 degrees

3. Final Pass:

Plus 15 degrees

8. Repeat the steps for the remaining pistons.

CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION


IMPORTANT: Use new connecting rod cap bolts.

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Fig. 423: Installing NEW Cylinder Head Gasket With Part Number Imprint Toward Front Of Engine - Front Cylinder Head Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. On the front side of the engine, install the new cylinder head gasket with the part number imprint toward the front of the engine.

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Fig. 424: Installing NEW Cylinder Head Gasket With Part Number Imprint Toward Rear Of Engine - Rear Cylinder Head Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. On the rear side of the engine, install the new cylinder head gasket with the part number imprint toward the rear of the engine.

3. Install the cylinder head to the engine block ensuring adequate clearance from all wires, components, etc.

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4. Install the new cylinder head bolts. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the proper tightening sequence and in stages.

Tighten:


IMPORTANT: Use the new cylinder head bolts. The required tightening method stretches the bolts, therefore, the cylinder head bolts are not reusable.

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1. First Pass

Tighten the cylinder head bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

2. Second Pass

Plus 90 degrees

3. Third Pass

Plus 90 degrees

4. Fourth Pass

Plus 90 degrees

5. Final Pass

Plus 15 degrees

CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION

Tools Required

J 35268-A Camshaft Main Seal Installer

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2. Install the lifters.

3. Install the camshafts.

IMPORTANT: The intake is marked with the letter A.

The exhaust is marked with the letter E.

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Fig. 427: Rear Cylinder Head Bearing Cap Markings Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. The bearing caps for the rear, cylinder 1, 3, 5, side cylinder head are marked L1-L8.

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Fig. 428: Front Cylinder Head Bearing Cap Markings Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. The bearing caps for the front, cylinder 2, 4, 6, side cylinder head are marked R1-R8.

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7. Install the camshaft bearing caps to their appropriate position.



IMPORTANT: DO NOT allow the sealer to get into the oil journal of the cap.

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9. Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts gradually, starting from the center cap.

Tighten: Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


10. Use the J 35268-A to install the camshaft seals.

OIL FILTER HOUSING INSTALLATION

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1. Install the O-ring onto the oil filter housing.

2. Install the oil filter housing onto the engine block and tighten.


3. Install the oil filter element, the O-ring, and the oil filter cap onto the housing.


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OIL PUMP INSTALLATION

Tools Required




Fig. 432: Identifying Pump Side Of NEW Oil Pump Gasket For Application Of Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealant, Or Equivalent & Oil Pump Bolt Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

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1. Install the oil pump gasket.

Fig. 433: Inspecting Engine Block & Upper Oil Pan Housing Sealing Surfaces Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Install the oil pump and align with the guide pins. Ensure that the mating surface is clean and free of oil or grease.

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3. Apply Permatex Threadlocker Blue P/N 21485278, or equivalent, to oil the pump bolts and install the bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pump bolts to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).


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4. Install the oil pump collar.

5. Install the front main oil seal. Coat the lip of the front main oil seal with a small amount of clean engine oil in order to aid in installation.



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Fig. 436: Identifying Pump Side Of NEW Oil Pump Gasket For Application Of Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealant, Or Equivalent & Oil Pump Bolt Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

8. Temporarily mount the generator and install the generator mounting bolts.


9. Tighten the oil pump bolts in sequence.

NOTE: The oil pump bolts must be retightened after the generator mounting bolt has been tightened to specifications to allow for uniform compression of the oil pump gasket.

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Tighten: Tighten the oil pump bolts to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).

10. Remove the generator bolts and the generator.

11. Lubricate the new oil pump pickup tube O-ring with motor oil.

12. Install the oil pan baffle.

Tighten: Tighten to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

Fig. 437: View Of Oil Pan & Components

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the oil pump pickup tube O-Ring is installed prior to pickup tube installation.

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13. Install the oil pump pickup tube.

14. Install the oil pump pickup tube bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pickup tube bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

OIL PAN INSTALLATION

Tools Required

J 44715 Oil Pan Alignment Pins. See Special Tools and Equipment.

1. Clean the oil pan and the engine block sealing flanges with a chlorinated solvent such as carburetor spray cleaner, brake clean, or alcohol SA P/N 21007432, or equivalent.

NOTE: After the pan has been placed on the engine block, do not allow the pan to move as this will not allow the sealant to properly seal in the chamfered flange.

IMPORTANT: Alignment of the oil pan is critical to ensure the transaxle nose cone-to-oil pan and the transaxle mating flange-to-oil pan alignment. Application of RTV is critical to ensure the positive seal of the chamfered sealing flange on the oil pan-to-engine block mating surface.

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Fig. 438: Installing Oil Pan Alignment Pins (J 44715) Into Datum Holes Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Install the J 44715 into the datum holes as shown in the illustration. See Special Tools and Equipment. Tighten until firmly seated in the block.

3. Apply a 2 mm (0.08 in) bead of LOCTITE® 5900, or equivalent, 3 mm (0.12 in) from the edge of the oil pan.

4. Assemble the oil pan to the engine block.

1. Install the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts and finger tighten.

2. Install the transaxle-to-oil pan bolts and finger tighten in order.

3. Remove the J 44715 . See Special Tools and Equipment.

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4. Install the oil pan bolts with Permatex Threadlocker Blue P/N 21485278 or equivalent.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pan bolts to 15 N.m (11 lb ft).

5. Torque the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts and the transaxle-to-oil pan bolts.

Tighten:

Tighten the transaxle-to-oil pan bolts (transaxle nose-bracket bolts) to 65 N.m (48 lb ft).

Tighten the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

5. Install the drain plug.

Tighten: Tighten the oil drain plug to 10 N.m (89 lb in).

OIL COOLER INSTALLATION


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1. Install the engine oil cooler and the new O-ring seals.

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Fig. 440: Applying Bead Of Silicone Sealer In Groove Around Engine Oil Cooler Cover Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

2. Apply a 2 mm (0.08 in) bead of P/N 12378521, or equivalent, in the groove around the engine oil cooler cover.

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Fig. 441: Engine Oil Cooler Cover Bolts Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Install the engine oil cooler cover bolts using the torque sequence shown.

Tighten: Tighten the engine oil cooler cover bolts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).

4. Install the engine oil cooler inlet and the outlet nuts.

Tighten: Tighten the engine oil cooler inlet and the outlet nuts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).


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5. Install the oil feed line to the engine block.

Tighten: Tighten the oil cooler feed and the return lines to the engine block to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).

6. Install the return line to the engine block.


7. Install the engine oil cooler line clamp

8. Install the crank sensor.

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9. Install the crank sensor bolt.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft position sensor bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb ft).

10. Install the oil filter assembly.



11. Install the oil feed and install the return lines to the engine oil cooler. Use the 4 new seals.

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THERMOSTAT HOUSING/THERMOSTAT INSTALLATION

Fig. 444: Installing Thermostat Housing Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the thermostat housing with the thermostat to the engine.

2. Apply the thread sealant PST 565 to the bolt threads.

3. Install the thermostat housing bolts.


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Tighten: Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

Fig. 445: Installing Coolant Pipe O-Rings (L81) Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Use the new seals when installing the thermostat housing extension.

5. Coat the new seals with the engine coolant to assist in the installation.

6. Push the coolant extension housing into the thermostat housing.

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Fig. 446: Proper Installation Of Coolant Pipe/Engine Lift Bracket Bolt Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Install the coolant extension housing bolt.

Tighten: Tighten the coolant extension housing bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

TIMING BELT COVER INSTALLATION - REAR

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1. Install the rear timing belt cover.

2. Coat the engine cover bolts with LOCTITE 242® thread locking compound or equivalent.


IMPORTANT: Ensure that the knock sensor and the camshaft sensor wires are routed correctly before installing the cover.


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Tighten: Tighten the rear timing belt cover bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

4. Install rear timing belt thread pin.


WATER PUMP INSTALLATION

Fig. 448: Removing & Installing Water Pump Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Coat the water pump seal ring with silicone grease.

2. Install the water pump seal.

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3. Install the water pump.

4. Apply thread sealant PST 565 to the bolt threads.

5. Install the water pump bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the water pump bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY INSTALLATION

Fig. 449: Removing & Installing Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket


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Tighten: Tighten the belt tensioner bracket bolts to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

CAMSHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET INSTALLATION

Tools Required





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1. Install the crankshaft drive gear.

2. Install the NEW crankshaft drive gear bolt, hand tighten only.

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Fig. 451: Installing Camshaft Gears & NEW Bolts Using Camshaft Lock Kit Tools To Lock Gears In Place While Tightening Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Install the camshaft gear.

IMPORTANT: Install the alignment pin in the correct numbered, alignment slot on the camshaft gear.

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4. Install the camshaft gear bolt.

Use the kits tools J 42069-1 and J 42069-2 within the J 42069 to hold the camshaft gear and the camshaft in place while tightening the camshaft gear bolt.

Tighten the camshaft gear bolt.


IMPORTANT: Use a new camshaft gear bolt. The required tightening method will stretch to its yield point, therefore, the bolt is not reusable.

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Tighten: Tighten the camshaft gear bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft), plus 60 degrees, plus 15 degrees.


NOTE: Ensure both components are aligned correctly or serious engine damage will occur.

IMPORTANT: Do not rotate the crankshaft if the camshaft is not locked in place with 1-2 and 3-4 camshaft locks, J 42069 , and J42069-2.

IMPORTANT: Do not rotate the camshafts unless the crankshaft is at 60 degrees BTDC

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5. Install the timing belt and ensure proper alignment. Refer to Timing Belt Replacement.


6. Install the J 42065 in order to hold the drive gear and tighten the bolt using the J 42098 .

Tighten:

First pass

Tighten the crankshaft drive gear bolt to 250 N.m (184 lb ft).

or valves may contact the pistons.

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Second pass

Plus 45 degrees

Final pass

Plus15 degrees

CAMSHAFT COVER INSTALLATION


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1. Lightly coat the new seals, including the O-rings, with engine oil prior to the installation to assist in holding the O-ring seals to the valve cover.

2. Install the valve cover seals.

3. Apply a thin coat of silicone sealer LOCTITE® 5900 or equivalent at the front and at the back of the seals.


4. Install the valve cover to the cylinder head.


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5. Install the valve cover bolts.


CRANKSHAFT BALANCER INSTALLATION


1. Install the harmonic balancer.


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2. Install the harmonic balancer bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

DRIVE BELT TENSIONER INSTALLATION


1. Install the belt tensioner to the engine.


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2. Install the belt tensioner bolts.


3. Install the A/C compressor bracket.

Tighten: Tighten the A/C compressor bracket bolt to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

4. Install the A/C compressor.

Tighten: Tighten the A/C compressor bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

5. Install the generator.


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6. Install the belt to the accessory drive pulleys.

7. Use a wrench on the center bolt of the tensioner pulley and rotate it downward to install the belt to the tensioner.

8. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

9. Tighten the power steering pump pulley bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the power steering pump pulley bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

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CRANKCASE VENT HOUSING INSTALLATION


1. Apply the sealing compound LOCTITE® 518 or equivalent to the sealing surfaces.

2. Install the chamber to the engine block.

3. Install the chamber bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the ventilation housing bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


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4. Install the hoses to the chamber.

EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSTALLATION

Tools Required

J 39194-C Oxygen Sensor Wrench

Fig. 461: Removing & Installing Rear Oxygen Sensor & Rear Exhaust Manifold Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the rear exhaust manifold gasket.

2. Install the rear exhaust manifold.

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3. Install the exhaust manifold nuts.

Tighten: Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

Fig. 462: Removing & Installing Front Oxygen Sensor & Front Exhaust Manifold Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

4. Install the oxygen sensor using the J 39194-C .

Tighten: Tighten the oxygen sensors, exhaust manifold, to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).


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5. Install the front exhaust manifold gasket.

6. Install the rear exhaust manifold.

7. Install the exhaust manifold nuts.

Tighten: Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

WATER CROSSOVER INSTALLATION


1. Install the coolant bridge and install the coolant bridge lower seals.

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2. Install the coolant bridge upper seals and the coolant bridge bolts.



3. Install the coolant intake housing and install the coolant intake housing O-ring seal.

4. Install the coolant intake housing bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the coolant intake housing bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).


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INTAKE MANIFOLD INSTALLATION

Fig. 465: Intake Manifold Spacer Tightening Sequence Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Install the intake manifold spacer and install the intake manifold spacer seals.

2. Install the intake manifold spacer bolts.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the bolts and the bolt holes are clean and free of contaminants.


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3. Apply LOCTITE® 242 thread locker to the spacer bolt. Tighten using the torque sequence shown.



4. Install the intake manifold.

5. Install the intake manifold bolts, and apply LOCTITE® 242 thread locker.

Tighten: Tighten the intake manifold bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

INTAKE PLENUM INSTALLATION

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1. Install the throttle body gasket to the plenum.

2. Install the throttle body to the plenum.

3. Install the throttle body nuts.

Tighten: Tighten the throttle body nuts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).


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4. Install the rear manifold runner only. Route the crankcase hoses and install the throttle body heater hoses.

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5. Install the intake manifold plenum and install the intake plenum bolts.

6. Install the plenum bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the intake plenum bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).

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7. Install the front manifold runner and tighten the clamps.

8. Install the front manifold runner bolts.


ENGINE REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure

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Fig. 471: Removing & Installing Engine Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the battery.

2. Remove the intake air cleaner.

3. Disconnect the MAF connector.

4. Remove the battery ground cable at the wheel housing.

5. Remove the positive main feed cable at the fuse block.

6. Disconnect the TCM main connector under the cowl cover and secure to the engine.

7. Disconnect the TCM inline connector located near the brake master cylinder.

8. Disconnect the A/C pressure connector.

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9. Remove the fuse block.

1. Remove the fuse block cover.

2. Disconnect the BLACK engine harness connector under the fuse block panel.

3. Remove the lower weather-pack connector inside the fuse block.

4. Secure the engine harness to the top of the engine.

5. Remove the fuse block mounting bolts.

6. Remove the fuse block and secure away from the engine.

10. Remove the battery tray.

11. Disconnect the EVAP purge connector.

12. Disconnect the right front speed sensor connector and secure to the top of the engine.

13. Disconnect the front O2 sensor from down pipe.

14. Disconnect the following electrical connections:

1. The tansaxle ground

2. The transaxle main connector

3. The transaxle shift control

4. The rear connector on ECM

15. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose.

16. Relieve the fuel pressure.

17. Disconnect the fuel lines and secure away from the engine.

18. Disconnect the EVAP purge hose at the EVAP purge solenoid.


20. Remove the starter.

21. Remove the torque converter bolts.

22. Drop the exhaust system from the catalytic converter forward.

23. Disconnect the transaxle nose bracket.

24. Remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts and secure to the frame rail.

25. Drain the engine coolant.

26. Disconnect the heater hoses at the lower cowl.

27. Disconnect the lower engine to transaxle bell housing bolts. Do not remove the upper bolts at this time.


29. Remove the main hose to the coolant reservoir from the engine inlet adapter.

30. Remove the lower radiator hose from the engine.

31. Remove the upper radiator hose from the engine.

32. Drain the power steering fluid by removing the small hose from under the reservoir.

33. Disconnect the metal power steering line.

34. Disconnect the power steering reservoir from the radiator support and secure to the top of the engine.

35. Attach the engine lift hoist to the lift hooks on the engine and support the engine weight.

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36. Remove the right front engine mount from the wheel housing.


38. Remove the upper bell housing bolts.

39. Lift the engine out of the vehicle.


Fig. 472: Removing & Installing Engine Assembly Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Lower the engine into the vehicle and guide it to mate with the dowel pins on the transaxle.

2. When the engine and the transaxle are aligned on the shuffle pins, install the upper bell housing bolts. Do

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not torque at this time.

3. Install the engine mount bracket onto the engine and install the bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the engine mount bracket bolts to 55 N.m (41 lb ft).

4. Install the right front engine mount and install the bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the engine mount-to-frame bolts to 55 N.m (41 lb ft).

5. Install the transaxle nose bracket bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts (transaxle nose bracket bolts) to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

6. Remove the engine lift hoist.

7. Attach the metal power steering line.

8. Attach the small hose to the bottom of the power steering reservoir.

9. Attach the power steering reservoir to the radiator support.


11. Install the lower radiator hose

12. Attach the main coolant reservoir hose to the engine.


14. Install the lower engine to the transaxle bell housing bolts and torque.

Tighten: Tighten the lower engine-to-transaxle bell housing bolts to 65 N.m (48 lb ft).

15. Install the torque converter bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the torque converter bolts to 65 N.m (48 lb ft).

16. Install the starter.

17. Connect the heater hoses at the lower cowl.

18. Install the A/C compressor to the engine mounting bracket.

Tighten: Tighten the A/C compressor bracket bolts to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

19. Install the exhaust down pipes to the catalytic converter.


21. Connect the EVAP purge solenoid hose.

22. Connect the fuel lines.


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23. Connect the brake booster vacuum hose.

24. Connect the following electrical connections:

1. The rear connector on the ECM

2. The transaxle shift control

3. The transaxle main connector

4. The transaxle ground

5. The right front speed sensor

25. Connect the front O2 sensor connector.

26. Connect the right front speed sensor.

27. Connect the EVAP purge solenoid connector.

28. Torque the upper bell housing bolts.

Tighten: Tighten the upper bell housing bolts to 65 N.m (48 lb ft).

29. Install the battery tray.

30. Install the fuse block.

1. Install the fuse block mounting bolts.

2. Route the engine harness into the block.

3. Connect the lower weather pack connector.

4. Connect the main engine harness under the fuse block panel.

5. Assemble the fuse block.

31. Connect the A/C pressure connector.

32. Connect the TCM inline connector near the brake master cylinder.

33. Connect the TCM main connector under the cowl cover and secure it to the engine.

34. Connect the positive main feed cable at the fuse block.

35. Connect the battery ground cable at the wheel housing.

36. Install the battery.


38. Connect the MAF connector.

39. Add coolant.

40. Add power steering fluid.

41. Start the engine and check for leaks.

ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT

Removal Procedure

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Fig. 473: Exploded View Of Oil Filter Cap & Filter Element Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Drain the engine oil

1. Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil into a container.


2. Replace the oil filter:

1. Using a 17 mm wrench, remove the oil filter cap and oil filter element.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the oil filter cap gasket is not stuck on the oil filter housing.

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2. Grasp the cap and lightly tap the element into the recycling container or trash receptacle.

3. Install the new element onto the oil filter cap.

4. Lightly screw on the oil cap and filter element until resistance is felt.

5. Using a 17 mm wrench, tighten the oil filter cap.


Fig. 474: Installing Oil Drain Plug Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Clean and install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.

Tighten: Tighten the oil drain plug to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

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4. Fill the engine with new engine oil.

Specification: Engine oil capacity is 4.7 L (5 quarts).

Fig. 475: Installing Oil Fill Cap Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

5. Install the oil fill cap.

6. Start the engine and check for leaks.

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Fig. 476: Checking Engine Oil Level Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

7. Check the engine oil level after the engine is OFF for 5 minutes. Add oil if necessary.

8. Reset the SERVICE OIL SOON telltale lamp.

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

ENGINE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION

Camshafts and Valve Depressors

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Fig. 477: Front View Of Engine With Front Cover Assembly Removed Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Each cylinder head has twin overhead camshafts with a large-diameter base circle, resulting in a large amount of lift with less stress. All four camshafts are driven by a toothed belt with a self-adjusting belt tensioner. The belt assembly also includes two eccentric pulleys for timing adjustment.

The camshafts are direct-acting on the valves via hydraulic lifters. The hydraulic lifters adjust automatically to the change in length of the valves at different temperatures. They operate in an oil bath and are supplied with oil via an oil gallery in the cylinder head. The advantages of hydraulic lifters are their quiet operation and their reliability. In addition, each cylinder head has two air purging nozzles to eliminate tappet noise after starting.

The valves have chromium-plated stems and the exhaust valves are sodium filled for heat dissipation. The camshaft sprockets on the rear cylinder head are interchangeable as are the camshaft sprockets on the front cylinder head. The valve guides are pressed in the cylinder head and are not replaceable. They are serviced by reaming the guide to over-size diameter and installing valves with over-size valve stems.

Connecting Rods

Each connecting rod is manufactured in one piece. There is a fractural impression at the big end where the connecting rod is "snapped" into two parts, one of which forms the big-end bearing cap.

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The big-end bearing caps are bolted to the connecting rods. The connecting rods are marked with a "bump" to prevent them from being installed incorrectly.

Crankshaft Assembly

The crankshaft has ground journals which are hardened by an induction hardening process. This produces a hard-wearing surface finish.

There are four main bearings and lubricating oil channels are drilled in the shaft. All main bearings are replaceable. The No. 2 and No. 3 main bearings have no grooves in the bearing caps. The sensor wheel for the engine management system is bolted to the crankshaft.

Cylinder Block

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Fig. 478: View Of Cylinder Block Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

The cylinder block is a special one-piece cast iron casting with the cylinder bores cast directly into the block. Oil galleries for the lubricating system are also drilled into the block.

Cylinder Head

Fig. 479: View Of Cylinder Head Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

The engine has two cylinder heads identified as the front bank (cylinders 2, 4, 6) and the rear bank (cylinders 1, 3, 5).

Each cylinder head is precision cast in a light aluminum alloy and is fastened to the cylinder block with non-reusable torque-to-yield bolts. The combustion chambers are hemispherical with four valves per cylinder and the spark plugs are located in the center. This improves the flow of gasses in the cylinders and also ensures effective combustion of the air-fuel mixture - resulting in greater efficiency.

Engine

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The engine is a water-cooled six cylinder V configuration engine with twin camshafts per cylinder head and four valves per cylinder. The angle between the banks of cylinders is 54 degrees which results in a compact engine. The cylinder volume is 3.0 liters. For cylinder arrangement, refer to illustration.

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Fig. 481: Identifying Cylinder Arrangement Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

The engine utilizes the Motronic engine management system.

The camshafts are driven by a toothed belt. The engine contains the following features: automatic purging of the air in the oilways supplying the oil to the tappets, an integral oil cooler to cool the engine oil and a main bearing bridge support which stiffens the block around the main bearing area.

The oil cooler has dual functions; it heats the oil when cold starting and cools the oil at operating temperature.

Pistons

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The pistons are made of light alloy and are coated with graphite. There are grooves for two compression rings and one oil scraper ring. The top compression ring is flat and is molybdenum coated. The lower compression ring has an oil-scraper function and is wider than the upper one. The actual oil-scraper ring consists of three parts.

The piston pins are fitted in the piston and connecting rod and are full floating. The axial movement of the pin is limited by locking clips in the piston pin bore.

Timing Belt Tensioner

The timing belt tensioner mounted on the slack side of the timing belt is spring loaded and adjustable. Once the belt tension has been adjusted, it keeps tension on the belt continuously and compensates for belt wear.

The belt assembly also includes two adjustable eccentric rollers.

LUBRICATION DESCRIPTION

Engine Oil

At the refinery, crude oil is separated by heating and distilling it into gases, light fuels, solvents, and lubricating-oil base stocks. After being further processed, the base stocks are selectively blended and fortified with additives to produce an engine oil with the desired properties.

Engine oil, then, is a sort of prescription. It contains different ingredients to do different things. Some of these things are done by the base oil, the rest by the additives.

What is Engine Oil Supposed to Do?

It Should Lubricate

That's its primary job, to provide a separating film between moving parts and thus control friction and wear.

It Should Cool

Engine oil is the principal coolant for the pistons, main bearings, rod bearings, and camshaft. As such, it removes up to 10 percent of the total heat load generated by the engine.

It Should Seal

The sealing function is to seal combustion pressures. Even though most pistons have 2 compression rings and an oil ring, high pressure gases, containing unburnt fuel combustion products and water, can still leak into the crankcase through ring gaps and microscopic valleys in the cylinder walls. This normal leakage is called "blowby". Oil is used to fill in the valleys and reduce that leakage.

However, oil can not be expected to seal the canyons in a badly worn engine. Nor can it effectively seal a brand new engine until the parts have seated themselves. That is why oil consumption is occasionally higher for the first few thousand miles during new vehicle operation.

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It Should Keep the Engine Clean

Combustion contaminants and dirt in the oil are unavoidable, but such particles tend to clump. If clumping is allowed to take place, sludge and varnish may follow.

Good engine oils are designed to prevent the particles from clumping and hold them in suspension. When the oil is drained, the suspended particles come out with it.

It Should Make Starting Easier

This is strictly a cold weather requirement. When it's freezing outside, the oil should be thin enough to give the engine a fair chance of starting. Yet as the oil gets hot and thins out, it should not become so thin that it will not lubricate or seal properly. That is what multigrade oils are for. Some of them, and all those that Saturn recommends, are designed to work in almost any temperature range.

It Should Prevent Rust and Corrosion

Metal can actually rust or corrode in oil, if the oil contains water or acids from the combustion process. A well-formulated oil protects against rusting by putting a chemical film on the metal parts, shielding them from water. It protects against acid attack by neutralizing the acid.

Additives

Additives are chemicals that give fresh engine oil its custom-made properties. Although used in small amounts, they provide a tremendous boost to the performance abilities of the engine oil. They, in fact, represent the major difference between the oils of the early 1940's and the highly advanced prescription oils of today.

Most Commonly Used Additives

Anti-wear Agents

In highly loaded parts like camshafts and valve lifters, an oil film is usually squeezed so thin it breaks. This would mean damaging metal-to-metal contact. When the oil film breaks down, these agents react chemically with the metal surfaces and from a protective coating that reduces wear.

Detergent-Dispersants

Combustion contaminants and dirt particles in the oil tend to clump, which can lead to sludge and varnish deposits. Detergent-dispersants are the additives that not only keep the engine clean but also stop such particles from massing. They work by surrounding the particles, most of which are invisible, with a shell of molecules. This action causes the imprisoned particles to repel one another. It also makes them a part of the oil, like cream is part of homogenized milk. They can not settle out on engine parts or clog oil passages.

Oxidation Inhibitors

These are additives that allow oil to lubricate when it is hot.

Oxidation is a complex chemical reaction between oil molecules and oxygen. As the operating temperature of

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oil goes up, so does the oil's oxidation rate. And unless the oil is heavily enriched with additives to fight oxidation, all sorts of undesirable things could happen. The worst of these is that the oil gets thicker and thicker - permanently.

Thus, a driver who waits too long between oil changes or uses low-quality oil and embarks on a cross-country trip during the summer may find the oil oxidized to a point so thick it will not drain out of the crankcase.

Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors

For every gallon of gasoline burned, about a gallon of water forms as steam. Most of the steam goes out the tailpipe, but some of it leaks as part of the blowby gases into the crankcase, where it becomes acidic. Water build-up in the oil increases with short-trip driving. If it were not for rust and corrosion inhibitors and regular oil changes, engines would wear because of that water.

V.I. Improvers

V.I. stands for viscosity index. Oils having a high viscosity index tend to thin out less when heated and thicken less when cooled. V.I. improvers are used to raise an oil's viscosity index for all-season operation. Without them there would not be multigrade oils.

Foam Inhibitors

Foam can result from air being whipped into the oil by moving engine parts, which could lead to oil loss, hydraulic valve lifter noise, and improper cooling and lubrication. Foam inhibitors weaken the surface tension of oil, which causes the air bubbles to break more readily.

Pour Point Depressants

The pour point of an oil is the lowest temperature at which the oil will flow. Below that temperature, wax crystals form, grow, and interconnect, then solidify or freeze the oil. Pour point depressants lower this freezing temperature by coating the wax crystals as they form, thereby checking crystal growth.

Friction Modifiers

These are the newest members of the family of additives in modern oils. They further reduce surface friction between moving parts. Friction modifiers, along with low viscosity, make "Energy Conserving" and similarly labeled oils possible. Such oils can increase a vehicle's fuel economy by several percent.

Oil Container Labels

The American Petroleum Institute (API) logo is a circle divided into 3 sections. The top half of the circle is the "API Service" section, which indicates the oil's degree of fuel efficiency. The center of the circle is the "Energy Conservation" section, which indicates the oil's degree of fuel efficiency. The center of the circle is the "Viscosity" section, which is used to indicate the viscosity of the oil. The oil container should have a "Starburst" label instead of the doughnut shaped symbol.

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Fig. 482: Identifying American Petroleum Institute Logo Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Multi-Grade Oils

These oils make seasonal changing unnecessary. They contain viscosity-index improvers that enable each oil to exhibit suitable flow properties at both ends of the thermometer.

They have labels like SAE 5W-30, 10W-30, or 15W-40. Some may have labels like SAE 5W-10W-20W-30, in this case, just ignore the middle numbers and read the oil as SAE 5W-30.

Oil Can Save You Gas

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Many factors are involved in determining the overall fuel economy obtained when driving a vehicle. One of the factors is the fuel efficiency of the engine oil being used.

In addition to being rated on the basis of their performance and viscosity, oils are rated on their ability to reduce the amount of fuel consumed during driving. Oils are rated against a reference oil in a standard engine test much like the ones described earlier in the Oil Performance Ratings section.

In this particular test, the fuel economy is measured and compared with that of a reference oil. If the tested oil provides at least 1.5 percent better economy than the reference oil, it is labeled "Energy Conserving II". These energy conserving designations are indicated on the lower half of the API logo to indicate fuel efficiency. Energy Conserving II oils should provide the best fuel efficiency, by the lease fuel efficient oils, ones that do not contain either designation.

Synthetic Oils

Compared with conventional motor oils, the synthetics involve different chemical processes and ingredient percentages. However, the base stock still comes from crude petroleum, and the additives are virtually the same as those commonly used.

From a performance standpoint, they work well, especially for engine start-up at very low temperatures. But, based on all the information, synthetic oils can not be left in an engine any longer than conventional oils. Extended use is the principal claim of synthetics. They can be used, but must have the right service category, viscosity grade, and fuel efficiency designation for the vehicle. The oil must be changed as specified in your owner's manual.

A second category, beginning with the letter C, also exists. These oils, CC, CD, CE, etc., are intended for diesels, like in trucks and bulldozers, and by themselves are not suitable for gasoline engines.

Viscosity

Viscosity is resistance to flow. Thick oils have a high resistance and, therefore, a high viscosity. Thin oils have a low resistance and, by the same token, a low viscosity.

A Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) number that appears in the center of the API logo. The SAE number defines the viscosity grading of oils, both single-grade and multigrade.

Single-Grade Oils

"Single-grade" refers to oils whose labeled viscosity applies at one temperature only. In general, single-grade oils indicated their viscosity by a single number, for example SAE 10W or SAE30. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. The W, for winter, tells you that the labeled viscosity applies at a sub-freezing temperature. Other wise it applies at 100°C (212°F).

Most non-W oils thicken when the temperature drops, which makes cold-engine starting very difficult or downright impossible. Many W oils also thin out too much in warmer weather, which hurts their ability to lubricate and seal.

Oil Filter - L81

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The oil cap and filter screw directly to the oil filter housing which is casting the block. A bypass valve is installed in the cap under the oil filter and automatically opens when the filter has become too dirty. The oil then passes through the filter without the filter being crushed.

Lubrication System - L81

Fig. 483: 3.0L RPO Code L81 V6 Engine Lubrication System Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

The engine oil pump is located on the front of the engine and is driven by flats on the crankshaft. Oil is pulled from the oil pan into the gerotor pump. The pump forces oil under pressure to the oil filter. A regulator valve mounted in the front cover oil outlet regulates oil pressure and vents excess back to the inlet side of the oil pump.

Oil enters the filter and is routed through the main oil gallery in the engine cylinder block. The engine oil filter has both an anti-drainback valve and a by-pass valve. The anti-drainlock valve prevents oil from draining out of the engine's oil galleries when it is not running and the by-pass valve allows oil to by-pass or flow around the filter's paper element if it should become plugged.

Engine oil leaving the pump flows through the cylinder block main oil gallery and is pressure fed to the main and connecting rod bearings. Oil then flows to the cylinder head and lubricates the camshaft, hydraulic lifters, and rocker arms. Air is bled out during initial starting.

Mounted on the oil pump housing is the oil pressure sensor. When the oil pressure drops too low, the sensor grounds the electrical circuit for the warning lamp in the instrument cluster.

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Oil Flow

Fig. 484: 3.0L RPO Code L81 V6 Engine Oil Flow Schematic Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Oil is applied under pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rods, balance shaft assembly, camshaft bearing surfaces, valve lifters, and timing chain hydraulic tensioner. All other moving parts are lubricated by gravity flow or splash. Oil enters the gerotor type oil pump through a fixed inlet screen. The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. The oil pump body is within the engine front cover. The pressurized oil from the pump passes

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through the oil filter. The oil filter is located on the right front side of the engine block.

The oil filter is housed in a casting that is integrated with the engine block. The oil filter is a disposable cartridge type. A by-pass valve in the engine block allows continuous oil flow in case the oil filter should become restricted. Oil then enters the gallery when it is distributed to the balance shafts, crankshaft, and camshafts. The connecting rod bearings are oiled by constant oil flow passages through the crankshaft connecting the main journals to the rod journals. A groove around each main bearing furnishes oil to the drilled crankshaft passages.

An oil cooling hole, which indexes once each revolution with the connecting rod oil feed hole, is drilled in the connecting bearing surface. The pressurized oil passes through the oil flow check valve into the cylinder head and then into each camshaft feed gallery. Cast passages feed each hydraulic element adjuster and drilled passages feed each camshaft bearing surface. An engine oil pressure switch or sensor is installed at the end. Oil returns to the oil pan through passages cast into the cylinder head. The timing chain lubrication drains directly into the oil pan.

REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

ENGINE PRELUBING

Tools Required

J 45299 Engine Pre-Luber. See Special Tools and Equipment.

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Fig. 485: Locating Oil Pressure Sensor Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Locate the front bottom of the engine at the oil pressure sensor (2).

2. Install the M14 x 1.5 adapter P/N 219433.

IMPORTANT: A constant and continuous flow of clean engine oil is required in order to properly prime the engine. Be sure to use an approved engine oil as specified in the owners manual.

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Fig. 486: Identifying Engine Preluber J 45299 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

3. Install the flexible hose to the adapter and open the valve.

4. Pump the handle on the J 45299 in order to flow a minimum of 0.95-1.89 liters (1-2 quarts) of engine oil. Observe the flow of engine oil through the flexible hose and into the engine assembly. See Special Tools

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and Equipment

5. Close the valve and remove the flexible hose and adapter from the engine.

6. Install the oil pressure sensor on the engine.

Tighten: Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).

7. Top off the engine oil to the proper level.

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION


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Fig. 487: Exploded View Of Crankcase Ventilation System Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Callouts For Fig. 487

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A closed crankcase ventilation system provides a more complete scavenging of crankcase vapors. Fresh air from the engine air induction system is supplied to the crankcase, mixed with blow-by gases and then passed through the crankcase ventilation housing into the intake manifold.

Operation

The primary control is through the crankcase ventilation housing which meters the flow at a rate depending on the manifold vacuum. In order to maintain the idle quality, the crankcase ventilation housing restricts the flow when the intake manifold vacuum is high. If abnormal operating conditions arise, the system is designed to allow excessive amounts of blow-by gases to back flow through the crankcase vent tube into the engine air inlet to be consumed by normal combustion.

DRIVE BELT SYSTEM DESCRIPTION

The drive belt system consists of the following components:

The drive belt

The drive belt tensioner

The drive belt idler pulley

The crankshaft balancer pulley

The accessory drive component mounting brackets

The accessory drive components

The power steering pump, if belt driven

The generator

The A/C compressor, if equipped

The engine cooling fan, if belt driven

The water pump, if belt driven

The vacuum pump, if equipped

The air compressor, if equipped

Callout Component Name1 Engine Vent Adapter Mounting Bolt2 Engine Vent Adapter3 Vent Hose Clamp4 Vent Hose Assembly5 Vent Hose Clamp6 Housing Gasket7 Vent Housing8 Housing to Block Screw9 Vent Hose10 Vent Adapter Gasket

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The drive belt system may use 1 belt or 2 belts. The drive belt is thin so that it can bend backwards and has several ribs to match the grooves in the pulleys. There also may be a V-belt style belt used to drive certain accessory drive components. The drive belts are made of different types of rubbers - chloroprene or EPDM - and have different layers or plys containing either fiber cloth or cords for reinforcement.

Both sides of the drive belt may be used to drive the different accessory drive components. When the back side of the drive belt is used to drive a pulley, the pulley is smooth.

The drive belt is pulled by the crankshaft balancer pulley across the accessory drive component pulleys. The spring loaded drive belt tensioner keeps constant tension on the drive belt to prevent the drive belt from slipping. The drive belt tensioner arm will move when loads are applied to the drive belt by the accessory drive components and the crankshaft.

The drive belt system may have an idler pulley, which is used to add wrap to the adjacent pulleys. Some systems use an idler pulley in place of an accessory drive component when the vehicle is not equipped with the accessory.

NEW PRODUCT INFORMATION

The purpose of New Product Information is to highlight important technical changes from the previous model year.

Changes may include one or more of the following items:

Torque values and/or fastener tightening strategies

Changed engine specifications

New sealants and/or adhesives

Disassembly and assembly procedure revisions

Engine mechanical diagnostic procedure revisions

New special tools required

A component comparison from the previous year

Torque Values and/or Fastener Tightening Strategies

Torque values and fastener tightening strategies are carry over from 2001 L81.

Changed Engine Specifications

Crankshaft stroke has been changed.

Cylinder bore has been changed.

New Sealants and/or Adhesives

A pipe sealant type material is used on the thermostat housing bolts.

A new anaerobic gasket marker is used on the engine oil cooler cover.

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A new anaerobic gasket marker is used on the oil pan.

Engine Mechanical Diagnostic Procedure Revisions

A new Engine Compression Test procedure has been added using a Tech 2.

CLEANLINESS AND CARE

Throughout this section, it should be understood that proper cleaning and protection of machined surfaces and friction areas is part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard shop practice even if not specifically stated.

When any internal engine parts are serviced, care and cleanliness is important.

When components are removed for service, they should be marked, organized or retained in a specific order for reassembly.

At the time of installation, components should be installed in the same location and with the same mating surface as when removed.

An automobile engine is a combination of many machined, honed, polished and lapped surfaces with tolerances that are measured in millimeters or thousandths of an inch. These surfaces should be covered or protected to avoid component damage.

A liberal coating of clean engine oil should be applied to friction areas during assembly.

Proper lubrication will protect and lubricate friction surfaces during initial operation.

SEPARATING PARTS

Separate, mark, or organize the following components:

Piston and the piston pin

Piston to the specific cylinder bore

Piston rings to the piston

Connecting rod to the crankshaft journal

Connecting rod to the bearing cap

Crankshaft main and connecting rod bearings

Camshaft and valve lifters

Valve to the valve guide

Valve spring and shim to the cylinder head location

Engine block main bearing cap location and direction

IMPORTANT: Many internal engine components will develop specific wear patterns on their friction surfaces. When disassembling the engine, internal components MUST be separated, marked, or organized in a way to ensure reinstallation to their original location and position.

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REPLACING ENGINE GASKETS

Gasket Reuse and Applying Sealants

Do not reuse any gasket unless specified.

Gaskets that can be reused will be identified in the service procedure.

Do not apply sealant to any gasket or sealing surface unless called out in the service information.

Separating Components

Use a rubber mallet to separate components.

Bump the part sideways to loosen the components.

Bumping should be done at bends or reinforced areas to prevent distortion of parts.

Cleaning Gasket Surfaces

Remove all gasket and sealing material from the part using a wood or plastic gasket scraper make from aluminum surfaces.

Care must be used to avoid gouging or scraping the sealing surfaces.

Do not use any other method or technique to remove sealant or gasket material from a part.

Do not use abrasive pads, sand paper, or power tools to clean the gasket surfaces.

These methods of cleaning can cause damage to the component sealing surfaces.

Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the oil.

This grit is abrasive and has been known to cause internal engine damage.

Assembling Components

When assembling components, use only the sealant specified or equivalent in the service procedure.

Sealing surfaces should be clean and free of debris or oil.

Specific components such as crankshaft oil seals or valve stem oil seals may require lubrication during assembly.

Components requiring lubrication will be identified in the service procedure.

When applying sealant to a component, apply the amount specified in the service procedure.

Do not allow the sealant to enter into any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause component damage when tightened.

Tighten bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.

USE OF ROOM TEMPERATURE VULCANIZING (RTV) AND ANAEROBIC SEALER

IMPORTANT: Three types of sealer are commonly used in engines. These are RTV sealer, anaerobic gasket eliminator sealer, and pipe joint compound. The correct sealer and amount must be used in the proper location to prevent oil leaks. DO NOT interchange the three types of sealers. Use only the specific sealer or the

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Pipe Joint Compound

Pipe joint compound is a pliable sealer that does not completely harden. This type sealer is used where two non-rigid parts are assembled together.

Do not use pipe joint compound in areas where extreme temperatures are expected. These areas include: exhaust manifold, head gasket, or other surfaces where gasket eliminator is specified.

Follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the container.

Apply the pipe joint compound to a clean surface. Use a bead size or quantity as specified in the procedure. Run the bead to the inside of any bolt holes. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause component damage when the bolt is tightened.

Apply a continuous bead of pipe joint compound to one sealing surface. Sealing surfaces to be resealed must be clean and dry.

Tighten the bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.

RTV Sealer

Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant hardens when exposed to air. This type sealer is used where 2 non-rigid parts (such as the intake manifold and the engine block) are assembled together.

Do not use Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant in areas where extreme temperatures are expected. These areas include: exhaust manifold, head gasket, or other surfaces where a gasket eliminator is specified.


Apply RTV to a clean surface. Use a bead size as specified in the procedure. Run the bead to the inside of any bolt holes. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause damage when the bolt is tightened.

Assemble components while RTV is still wet (within 10 minutes). Do not wait for RTV to skin over.


Anaerobic Sealer

Anaerobic gasket eliminator hardens in the absence of air. This type sealer is used where two rigid parts are assembled together.


Apply a continuous bead flange. Surfaces to be resealed must be clean and dry.

Spread the sealer evenly with your finger to get a uniform coating on the sealing surface.

Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause damage when tightened.

equivalent as recommended in the service procedure.

IMPORTANT: Anaerobic sealed joints that are partially torqued and allowed to cure more than five minutes may result in incorrect shimming and sealing of

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After properly tightening the fasteners, remove the excess sealer from the outside of the joint.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Special tools are listed and illustrated throughout this section with a complete listing at the beginning of the section. These tools (or their equivalents) are specially designed to quickly and safely accomplish the operations for which they are intended. The use of these special tools will also minimize possible damage to engine components. Some precision measuring tools are required for inspection of certain critical components. Torque wrenches and a torque angle meter are necessary for the proper tightening of various fasteners.

To properly service the engine assembly, the following items should be readily available:

Approved eye protection and safety gloves

A clean, well-lit, work area

A suitable parts cleaning tank

A compressed air supply

Trays or storage containers to keep parts and fasteners organized

An adequate set of hand tools

Approved engine repair stand

An approved engine lifting device that will adequately support the weight of the components

SPECIAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

SPECIAL TOOLS

Special Tools

the joint. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from seating properly or cause damage when the bolt is tightened.

Illustration Tool Number/Description

J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator

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J 8001 Dial Indicator Set


J 37088-A Fuel Line Disconnect Set

J 39194-C O2 Sensor Wrench

J 39400 Leak Detector

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J 41742 Connecting Rod Guide

J 41775 Valve Guide Seal Installer




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J 42096 Valve Guide Reamer

J 42098 Crank Hub Torx Socket


J 43914 Clamp Pliers, Universal

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J 43953 Piston Ring Compressor

J 43963 Valve Spring Compressor (Off Vehicle)

J 44628 Bearing Bridge Sleeve Wrench

J 44715 Oil Pan Alignment Pins

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J 45299 Engine Pre-Luber

SA9101E Piston Pin Retainer/Replacer

SA9102E-A Valve Seal Remover/Replacer

SA9105E Engine Support Fixture (3 Bars)

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SA91101NE Feeler Gauge Set

SA9123E Gasket Seal Cutter

SA9124E Regulator Valve Remover/Replacer

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SA9127E Gauge Bar Set

SA9140E Torque Angle Gauge

SA9171E Flex Hone

SA9177NE Straight Edge (24")

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SA9183NE Spring Tester

SA9805E Fuel Line Separator

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3.0 l engine

Documents

ft engine mount

ft crankshaft balancer

ft camshaft sprocket

ft idler pulley bolt

ft flex plate bolt

ft ignition module bolt

ft cylinder head bolt

ft engine control module