2014 06 13 final

Volume 33, No.45

ON CAMPUS P 4-5

FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9

BACK PAGE P 12CENTER SPREAD P 6-7

Culinary Culture P 3

June 13 2014

Marriott Pavilion Dedicated

“CIA: Evolving Our Industry

One Chef at a Time”

“A-Z on SUCCESS” “What Would McCue Do?”

“Rose Apple”

“All in Good Taste”

Richard Marriott and CIA President Dr. Tim Ryan dedicated the 42,000-square-foot Marriott Pavilion on the Hyde Park campus in May. Now the largest gathering place on campus, the facility will host commencement ceremonies, industry leadership conferences, cultural events, and lectures by luminaries of the food world. The Marriott Pavilion features the 800-seat Ecolab Auditorium, with two portable kitchens that can be rolled onto the stage for culinary demonstrations. Flanking the walls of the theater are 31-foot-high reproductions of “Summer” and “Vertumnus,” two paintings by 16th century artist Giuseppe Arcimboldo. The lower level consists of a conference center with a demonstration kitchen and space to seat 300, either theater-style or, by erecting temporary walls, in up to six individual classrooms. The pavilion was made possible by support from the J. Willard and Alice S. Marriott Foundation, Ecolab, and pledges to the college’s capital campaign. Following the dedication, Mr. Marriott, chairman of the board of Host Hotels & Resorts, Inc. (the real estate investment sister company of Marriott International), delivered the commencement address at the first baccalaureate degree graduation held in the building, where he received an honorary Doctor of Humane Letters in Culinary Arts degree.

CIA Students Extern at World’s Top Restaurants; Two are Owned by Grads

Students at the CIA have remarkable opportunities to work in some of the best restaurants in the world. This was confirmed in the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Res-taurants list for 2014. Two restaurants on the list, Alinea (Grant Achatz ’93) and Pujol (Enrique Olvera ’97) are owned by CIA alumni. And thirteen—including three of the top four and all seven U.S. restaurants on the list—are approved externship locations where CIA students can complete their required field study between freshman and sophomore year. They are:

2. El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, Spain 3. Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy 4. Eleven Madison Park, NYC 9. Alinea, Chicago 18. Astrid y Gaston, Lima, Peru 20. Pujol, Mexico City 21. Le Bernardin, NYC

25. L’Arpege, Paris 27. Le Chateaubriand, Paris 30. Per Se, NYC 40. Daniel, NYC 44. French Laundry, Yountville, CA 49. Coi, San Francisco

Many CIA students and graduates also have an op-portunity to stage at many of the World’s 50 Best Res-taurants, including #1 Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark, whose kitchen is under the direction of Daniel Giusti ’04. Other CIA alumni run the kitchens at Le Bernardin (Chris Muller ’88) and Per Se (Eli Kaimeh ’00), while even more graduates hold key positions in the kitchen, dining room, and management at Noma, Eleven Madison Park, #6 Mugaritz (San Sebastian, Spain), Alinea, Le Bernardin, Per Se, Daniel, and French Laundry.

Image by: Fiamma Piacentini

Right: Entrance for Pujol, Mexico City.

BY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer


2LA PAPILLOTE

COMPACT La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and val-ues of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus com-munity. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profes-sion. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be ac-curate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we por-tray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.FOOD REVIEW POLICY As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

Crystal Tan Chef Freddie BrashMaxine LambiaseDaniel JaroszGareth AlonsoMorghann CrossleyPhil Boser

Stephanie Kirkland Thomas HirstChef David McCueBrandon SimsEmilio CerraConnor WhiteJeff Levine

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs DivisionEDITOR-IN-CHIEF Amy ZarichnakLAYOUT EDITOR Thiana AndersonADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug

EDITORIAL POLICY La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Amy Zarichnak, Editor-In-Chief at [email protected].

LETTERS POLICY Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to [email protected] with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

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Gareth AlonsoCopy Editor

My fellow students are calling it “senioritis,” even though, for all intents and purposes, we’re really only sophomores. However, with graduation looming in seven short weeks, we feel like seniors, especially those of us who are not pursuing bachelor’s degrees. We just want the hell out of here. For over a year now, I have sung the praises of the CIA. And believe me, I still feel that way. But in the last issue, I started to complain. And I meant it, sincerely. I’m a girl who has been yodeling for months about how great the CIA is, and I even got called a “kiss-ass” by a girlfriend of mine. So, please don’t misunderstand: I do love the CIA. In fact, this school likely saved my life. I don’t mean that I was near suicide when I came here, or that I was on a self-destructive path (although I was, to some degree). I have mentioned in my articles many times, and I will repeat myself for those who haven’t previ-ously read my column, I was laid off five times in five years before coming here. I had applied to the CIA in 2010, and couldn’t afford to come here to school. By the grace of God, a series of events in 2012 caused a small lump sum of money to land on my lap, enabling me to attend school. It was the greatest thing that ever happened to me in my life, and I mean that from the depths of my being. I literally felt angels around me when it happened. The events that propelled me to school were so unbelievable, so coordinated, so absolutely calculated and so carefully placed in my life, that no one will ever convince me that I didn’t see the hand of God in my life, because I felt His presence. And now, I just want the hell out of here. Don’t mistake my impatience, weariness, and indiffer-ence for ungratefulness. Beyond the shadow of a doubt, I am still utterly grateful, I’m still happy to be here, and on some levels, I can’t believe this happened in my life and that I got a second chance at building a career. But. But first of all, I’m freakin’ tired! I have never been as exhausted as I have been over the past twelve weeks. It started in Chef Pardus’s Cuisines of Asia class, seemed to amp up during Wines, and then I got into back-of-house American Bounty and was more physically weary than I have ever been in my life. Between the physicality of the nine-hour day, constantly moving because Chef Lipuma would yell at me if I stopped for 3 minutes (I wish I was joking, but I’m not!), and the mental challenge of trying to keep up with three or four banquets at a time, and keeping straight what ingredients and dishes were for which ban-

quet, I was exhausted. My classmates and I quickly realized that as school winds down… The effort and energy that you must put into it does not. It requires more effort, more studying, more mental acuity, more physical exertion, and in general, there is more going on. The days are longer. You’re learning completely new things, you’re forced, like a fish out of water, to wait tables in the front of the house, and then there are the costing and cooking practicals. The second semester practical freaked us out enough; regardless, though, just because we know what to expect for the fifth term practical, it still seems like a huge hurdle to overcome. I’ve said this a lot in this column, too: I always think that because I’m older than the average student here, that I feel like I’m more worn out than the young ‘uns. The whole way through, though, the young ‘uns are taking more naps than I am (so far, I have taken zero naps here!), missing more classes than me, and they are just as worn out as I am, if not more. However, as we’ve moved towards graduation, this has begun to manifest itself differently than it did last year before externship. My class is doing things collectively. We are sharing homeworks, studying for tests together, partying together, and we are all on the same page as far as just wanting this to be over and done with. We. All. Want. To. Be. Done! As such, we’re helping each other, we’re banding together, and we’re spending a lot of time together outside of class. But all of us, all of us, are ready to be done with our classes, ready to be done with our obligations at the CIA, and we all want to move on, start to make some money, and not worry about homework, presentations, tests, and practicals anymore. The last four-and-a-half-months of the AOS program are brutal. Especially so if you have a hard chef, like Chef Pardus or Chef Lipuma (but please don’t let that scare you away from entering either of their classes – they are both brilliant men who are amazing to learn from). It ’s time-consuming, it ’s harder than your first two semesters… and it never stops. When you get into baking class after externship, all seems well. Garde Manger was a great class! But the Menu Development class takes a lot of work, and while there is a brief lull while you are in Cuisines of the Ameri-cas, Cuisines of Asia brings the Intro to Service class,which are the uniformed servers you see in the East Wing Dining Room.. For a week, you have classes for twelve hours a day. And it just seems like it never lets up from there. Granted, since I am the editor of the student newspa-per, my plate is a bit more full than students who aren’t as involved, but it seems like everyone is involved in some-thing. Once students get into the restaurants, as I am, it seems like you never see them again. And you don’t – we eat family meal in the restaurants with our classmates, we don’t eat in any of the kitchens anymore, our hours don’t permit that. So, we don’t get to see people as much, and no one sees us. After class, we can’t scurry home and away from campus fast enough. We’re overworked, exhausted, and overwrought. We go into the black hole of almost-graduation, and that’s where we stay until we graduate. Thank God. Thank God for my time at the CIA, and thank God it ’s almost over.

Amy [email protected]

“As a restaurateur, my job is to basically control the chaos and the drama. There’s always going to be cha-os in the restaurant business.” ~ Rocco DiSpirito

3June 13, 2014

Just the other day, I had an epiphany. Never before in my life have I had this much of an under-standing of food. Right now I am the best that I’ve ever been. What an incredible feeling that is. The even crazier thing is that I’m still not at my maximum potential. I still have so much to learn and so much of my skills yet to hone. I’m

constantly baffled by the incredible education that The Culinary Institute of America instills in us. Their ability to produce such high quality chefs is something rather pro-found. For me, choosing to enroll at The Culinary Institute of America was a no-brainer. Even before coming to school, I was learning how to cook the CIA way. I was lucky enough to attend a two year culinary program in high school. My instructor, Chef Karen Mecum, is a CIA graduate herself. I was one of two students in my class to continue on to CIA after graduat-ing. In fact we are just two of the many students that she has funneled to her alma matter. I was lucky enough to be provided with such an excellent background in culinary, even luckier that I was being trained in CIA habits and methods early on. Chef Mecum was one of those teachers who truly valued the education of her students. She went the extra mile, training us for competitions, exposing us to different cuisines, and ultimately preparing us for our next step in our culinary journeys. I feel so blessed to have had a mentor who provided me with such a strong foundation to build on. Once I arrived at the CIA, I immediately felt in my element. Chef Swartz was my Culinary Fundamentals instructor. I remember on the first day he asked my class who had been to a vocational school. I, along with several other students, raised my hand. He said that we were the students whose bad habits he needed to break. I immedi-ately took this as a challenge. Surely I hadn’t been taught anything too horrendous. Throughout that class I made it a point to prove myself to Chef Swartz. I wasn’t some schmuck and I desperately wanted prove it. I buckled

CIA: Evolving Our Industry One Chef at a Time

down and worked my ass off to be the best that I could be. I needed to show Chef Swartz that I was a Chef Mecum quality student, a Culinary Institute of America quality student. For the entire class, that entire first year for that matter, I spent nearly 100% of my time dedicated to be-ing the best that I could be. I wasn’t going to let the CIA break me. As a p.m. student I would wake up and make my timeline for that day’s class and finish up any homework that I was given. Then I would go to class and work my ass off. When I got home from class I would work on my homework until I went to sleep. This cycle continued for the remainder of the year. I really do believe that the chefs could see that I had potential. They too went the extra mile in ensuring that their students were given the best possible education. I will be the first to admit that the CIA pushes their students to the limit. What other school can you think of whose students sacrifice the bulk of their summer or wake up at 1:00 a.m. for class? There is a lot that is expected of us and those who can’t handle the pressure are quickly weeded out. This leaves the core group of students who strive toward being the best that they can be. With that said, the chefs’ primary goal is to help us succeed. They push us so hard for our own benefit. Once we’ve proven ourselves they support us and continue to push us to our maximum potential. We are all blessed to have the opportunity to be sur-rounded by such culinary excellence. The Culinary Insti-tute of America has been the key player in our successes as culinary professionals. I am extremely appreciative to CIA for all they have done for me. As a current extern, I am exposed to the reality of our industry beyond our classroom kitchens. There are countless CIA quality locations. How-ever there are also places out there that don’t match the CIA’s high standards. As the school continues to produce such high quality chefs, the bar is being raised for our industry as a whole. The Culinary Institute of America is bettering the culinary industry one chef at a time. We are all lucky to be at the school during this time of amazing postive changes in the industry.

BY: Connor White, AOS Culinary

The Guild of Tea is the The Culinary Institute of America’s tea-passionate student organization dedicated to spreading the knowledge and love of tea. For those of us who are avid fans of the original Black Earl Grey (as most of us are) but are looking for a lighter tea during to sip the warmer months, we recommend Teavana’s Earl Grey White. It is a modern twist on the classic aromatic flavor from bergamot orange which is supplemented by an apricot nuance which accents the delicacy of white tea. This Earl Grey White also contains less caffeine than the traditional Black Earl Grey. We suggest combining this tea with fresh stone fruit such as peaches or apricots in addition to sparkling water to make refreshing iced faux cocktails! In addition to Earl Grey White, we recommend Teavana’s Sakura Allure, which is an enchanting fruity and floral green tea blend containing rose and hibiscus, plus cherries, mangoes and candied pineapple. A sip of Sakura Allure refreshes the palate. The herbaceous, earthy flavor of the green tea balances with tart cherries and sweet mango and marries naturally with fragile fragrances of rose. When steeped, Sakura Allure becomes a beautiful pink color. This makes it a perfect green tea to ice and use when experimenting with and creating invigorating summer beverages! Both of these teas we have recommended will be utilized at the upcoming Guild of Tea’s BUBBLE TEA SALE. You may reach out to us through our Facebook or Google+ pages for more information on our upcoming events and meeting times.

Early Summer Tea Recommendations

Image courtesy of: Teavana

The CIA presented its eighth annual Leader-ship Awards this spring. This year’s “Augies”—named for legendary chef Auguste Escoffier—were presented to four people who exemplify innovation in the food world. Each was honored for accomplishments in areas of leadership and action that have been de-termined by the CIA to be critical to the future

of the foodservice and hospitality industry:

• Professional excellence and innovation: Jean-Georges Vongerichten, chef/owner of Jean-Georges Restaurants. • Health and wellness: Hamdi Ulukaya, founder and CEO of Chobani, Inc. • World cuisines and cultures: Masaharu Morimoto, chef/owner of Morimoto Restaurants. • Sustainability and food ethics: Leo Oosterveer, CEO of Unilever Food Solutions.

More than 500 guests attended this year’s awards. Includ-ing dinner ticket sales, a silent auction, and contributions from sponsors, the evening raised $500,000 for student scholarships at the CIA.

“Augie” Awards Support Student Scholarships

Playing at the site of the U.S. Open Grand Slam ten-nis tournament—the USTA Billy Jean King National Tennis Center in Flushing Meadow, NY—the CIA tennis team took second place in the 2014 Hudson Valley Intercollegiate Men’s Tennis Championships in May. The CIA finished just behind Pratt Institute in the team standings. The Steels finished 4-1 in conference play in the regular season and sophomores Kyle Felker (Bay City, MI) and Jeremy Sawyer (Reno, NV) made the all-conference team. During the season, Felker and sophomore Zach Taylor (Pittsburgh, PA) were honored as Player of the Week, and junior Fernando Nava (San Diego, CA) and freshman Carlos Berti (Guatemala City, Guatemala) were each named Rookie of the Week

Steels Tennis Team Takes Second Place

Image by: Coach Dennis Anderson



BY: Guild of Tea

4 LA PAPILLOTE

I went home a few weekends ago my family of four went to dinner on a Saturday night. We went to an authentic Italian restaurant that was BYOB. My parents brought a bottle of Prosecco and a bottle of Merlot. I had taken wines class, which to my surprise, was one of my favorite classes. My family had ordered and we were patiently waiting for our

main courses when the waitress opens our bottle of red wine. After the waitress walked away, I proceeded to tell my family everything that she did incorrectly, from presenting the wine, to opening the wine, to pouring it. Once the wine had had some time to breathe I began to smell it, and swirl it, and taste it as I was taught. My family looked at me like I was nuts! I swirled the glass with my hand over the top and “popped” it off right before I tasted it. “The burst of oxygen opens all the flavors and aromas of the wine,” I explained to them, as my professor had explained to me mere weeks before. We got to the point where my entire family had a glass of red wine and we were all swirling our glasses with our hand over

BY: Maxine Lambiase, AOS Baking and Pastry

CIA – The Harvard of Culinary Schools

A Founders Day Celebration was held on the Hyde Park Campus to mark the anniversary of the CIA. The school that would become The Culinary Institute of America was founded by Frances Roth and Katharine Angell in New Haven, CT. On May 22, 1946, in collaboration with the New Haven Restaurant Association, the school held its first classes. It provided training and career opportunities for returning WWII veterans while, at the same time, delivering much-needed talent to the burgeoning post-war foodservice industry. CIA President Dr. Tim Ryan said Founders Day celebrates “not only the dedication and perseverance of Frances Roth and Katherine Angell to bring their vision of a culinary school to reality, but to also acknowledge the many talented individuals who carried on that vision to where we are today—providing the world’s best professional culinary education and leading the foodservice industry.”

CIA Remembers its Founders

Students from the CIA’s Hyde Park campus have just begun a semester at the college’s San Antonio campus as part of the CIA’s new Latin Cuisines Concentration. They are studying the ingredients, techniques, and cultural traditions of Latin Ameri-can cuisines—learning about the foods of Mexico and other regions ripe for broader exposure in the United States, including Brazil, Peru, Central America, and the Caribbean. For the first semester of their senior year, the students ex-plore the nuances of flavor development and culinary expression of these cuisines, while learning from expert faculty and visiting instructors, such as award-wining chef Rick Bayless, all under the direction of CIA Chef Sergio Remolina. The Latin Cuisines Concentration provides in-depth knowledge and a valuable specialization in some of the world’s most exciting cuisines. Latin meals account for an estimated one-third of all ethnic restaurant sales in the United States. And, the students are gaining this in-depth knowledge while spending 15 weeks in San Antonio—the gateway to Latin America. During their studies, students will present several special dinners open to the public. The CIA’s Latin Cuisines program joins existing concentra-tions in beverage management and farm-to-table cooking held at the college’s Greystone campus in California’s Napa Valley.

Bachelor’s Students Can

Specialize in Latin Cuisines

the top, then “popping” our hand off of the glass and sniffing it. We would stick our noses the whole way in, and then we’d all take a sip of our wine. At this point in time, the entire restau-rant seemed to be staring at us, and finally the manager came over to the table and asked us what we were doing. My mom looked him straight in the eye and said “My daughter Maxine is going to school to be a pastry chef !” The manager asked where and she replied, “The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. The best of the best!” Once the staff realized where I was being educated, we were treated with a whole new level of respect and attention. It was a great feeling and made me appreciate who I am, what I’m doing, and the school that I chose to attend. We are part of the most renowned culinary school in the world. We are the CIA. We are “the best of the best”! We should be proud of who we are, and what we have accomplished so far in our individual culinary journies at the school. It is our job to raise the standard in every restaurant, kitchen, or food corporation at which we secure employment. It is our responsibility to properly represent ourselves, as well as our alma mater. We are the “Ivy League” of culinary, the MIT of engineering, the Wharton of MBA’s. “The Harvard of culinary schools,” as Julia Childs put it. We are The Culinary Institute of America!

Each of us has the potential to succeed. How bad do you want it? If you dream, sleep, eat, and think of success then you are one step closer to it. Embrace this vision by gathering experience, as well as knowledge. Please realize that you can do anything, and I must emphasize the word “anything.” When you discover what jazzes you up, pursue it whole-

heartedly. Try not to stand in your own way, because we tend to do just that. Here are some tips for success: A little respect and kindness in the real world goes a long way. It is proven that people with good attitudes thrive in countless situations. Believe in everything you do. If you don’t have faith in yourself, who will? Call it quits when you begin to veer away from the vision of how you want your life. Walk away if you are unhappy or mistreated. Only accept the best because that is exactly what you deserve. Do yourself a big favor by setting goals for the future. This will give you the intention that you are working towards some-thing. Then allow your aspirations to guide you closer to your dream by opening up opportunities. Envision yourself in one year, five years, and ten years. I dare you. It will open your eyes to the success you are envision-ing. Failure is almost a guarantee. Everyone will experience a failure at some point, but do not let it get you down. As they say, every experience provides a good learning opportunity. Grow as an individual from what you learn from each setback. Know that next time you will do better. Oprah says it best, “When you know, you do better”. Go above and beyond because people will notice your unending passion. Happiness is reall ywhat life is all about. It spreads like a virus, causing a contagious happy chain reaction. So during a stressful day or a hardship, try to muster a smile or laugh to feel instantaneously better. There really is no better medicine than laughing. Improvement is always strived for because there is always an opportunity for progess. Just go for it. You have nothing to lose! “The worst thing anyone can say is no,” and like the saying on the Starbucks cup said a few years ago, sometimes that person doesn’t know enough to say “yes” to you.

A-Z on SUCCESS Know that you are the best. Tell yourself this in the mir-ror from time to time for an instantaneous confidence boost. Remember, our thoughts shape our reality. Look deeper into your own life. Notice that everything you do is significant. The choices you make and the friends you accumulate may impact your future. If there is a negative person bringing you down, move away from them. Money is not everything. Instead, being excited to go into work is more rewarding. Consider a career path that you adore to feel a greater sense of satisfaction. Do what you love, and the money will follow. Never, ever, and I repeat, never ever give up on anything you wish to accomplish. The brilliant Professor Chalmers preaches “Never lose hope.” You never know what is around the next corner! Open your eyes and always keep your ears open. Opportu-nities will always be present. So seek and embrace them. Pretend you are famous, happy, or what have you. Your thoughts are a direct representation of your condition. Question everything to instill a sense of curiosity within you. Doing so may lead you to grasp the bigger picture. So keep learning, because perfect practice makes practice perfect! Recognize that one significant idea in life. After your find it, there is no looking back. Put your mind completely towards it and heck, you may become successful as Bill Gates. Sell yourself big. There actually is something worse than selling yourself short. You are amazing, but what differentiates you from everyone else? Try to do your best, because at the end of the day, that is all you can do in life. Use all the resources around you to make your vision a reality. Networking is key to varied opportunities! Victory will come, but you must be ready for it. Stay posi-tive and work towards your ambitions. Waiting gets you nowhere. Try to plan and think ahead because life does not slow down for you. X may mark the spot for a treasure, but humans must discover their purpose for existence, as one embarks on this adventure called life. Do what moves you. You do you, as the common expression goes. Love yourself, because you teach people how to treat you. Your soul will guide you toward glory, but managing others is important on the road to success. Zzzzzzz. Do not let sleep stand in your way of success. So make the most of every minute on this planet. A chef once told me, “You can sleep when you are dead”. So make every minute count on earth.

BY: Daniel Jarosz, BPS Culinary



ON CAMPUS 5June 13, 2014

Two days before my departure to attend school, my nerves were high. Uncertainty had set in and my frustration had reached a new level. I dreamt of this journey my entire life. From the first time I set my eyes on the sweet dreams of Gale Gand to the chocolate world of Jacques Torres, my passion ignited and burned with the fire of a thousand suns. I needed to

know how these people did what they did. I dabbled, I studied, and I researched my way into the dreams of culinary school mecca, The Culinary Institute of America. I can honestly say that I cannot pinpoint the exact moment of my discovery of this amazing school. It just feels like it has always been there, looming in the distance in my life, awaiting my discovery. To think that I wondered if one day I could see the school, let alone think that attending was a possibility. It was a challenge, a mil-lion mile journey of many ups and too manydowns. I worked relentlessly and never stopped dreaming. Finally, there I stood: T-minus two days prior to my arrival. Then the doubt began to set in. Am I really good enough? Can I really make it at the “Harvard of culinary schools”? Will anyone accept my quirky, over-energetic persona? Was I making the correct decision in my life? Taking on the huge expense of school and ready to learn, with hope and many prayers and a huge, open, vulnerable heart, I leapt. I had lived a very “average” life up to this point. I was a cake decorator/baker at an amazing bakery at which I felt so blessed to have the opportunity to work. Bakery Delite was my home for fourincredible years and life lessons were learned alongside the many pastry lessons I also learned. I became acclimated to the very fast-paced world of high-volume production from-scratch bakery goods. Let me be the first to tell you, these are the kinds of places that break you into pieces then build you back up into their needed employee. I would not be the em-ployee that I am today or have the pastry knowledge that I have without my beloved mentors and friends from this bakery. But still, I knew more awaited me. It’s not easy making such a massive change. I found it scary enough to move to college, but realized it was harder still know-ing that I was leaving behind guaranteed stability. However, I did it, I leapt, and in so doing, I have not looked back once! As I write, this has been my first week here at school, and it has been the most exciting exhilarating week of my life! There have been new and exciting things to see and do, and both the campus and the food is beautiful. In fact, everything about this campus feels magical, so it is only appropriate for me to nickname it “Hogwarts”! A flawless move-in to my dorm automatically melted away any doubt , frustration, or angst. The endless support from peers, staff, chefs and administration alike made my first week was swimmingly easy. With amazing accommodations and resources to keep you in tip-top shape, you simply cannot fail. This place will take you to the stars with style and grace, if you want it to, if you let it. Despite all of the fear and doubt, I can honestly say, I have found a new home. I have sprung out of my comfort zone and left behind my cozy stability, and when I did, I found myself, the beautiful, accomplished chef I dreamt of being as a young girl. I am ready to learn, and I am ready to fight for what I want, and most importantly, I know I am in the very best place I can be to do all of the things I could only dream of doing as a child.

Welcome Home

BY: Morghann Crossley, AOS Baking and Pastry

The new Hollywood feature film Chef, written and directed by and starring Jon Favreau, is shaping up to be a box office success this summer. Before it premiered nationally, more than 1,500 CIA students at all three U.S. campuses took advantage of

Nearly a year after launching it, Dining Services and CIA student leadership have agreed to temporarily suspend operation of the Convenience Store—the “C-Store”—on the first floor of the Plaza Café. The pilot program, started last July, will be officially closing on Friday, June 13, 2014. Despite a champion effort to maintain the “C-Store” operation, we have been unable to increase usage and generate the revenue necessary to keep it open at this time. But don’t worry—we’ll be back! The program did give us great data and insight into the operation and products needed to service our students. Armed with this information, we plan to reopen in a new marketplace when the “EGG” opens at the Rec Center in 2015. In the interim, the store’s top 10 selling food products will be adapted into the Plaza Café operation for the convenience of our students. We thank you for your support and patronage, and look forward to serving you once again at the new C-Store in ’15!

C-Store Temporarily Suspending Operations

Students Get Surprise at Preview Screening of Chef

a rare opportunity to see the film during special previews. And for one of those previews, Favreau spoke with the students live via Skype. To prepare for his role, Favreau was trained to be an on-screen chef by Roy Choi ’98. “He was hoping to send me to upstate New York to study for, like, six months. But that’s not the way the movie business works,” Favreau told students at the Hyde Park campus. “But it shows you how highly he thinks of the CIA, and I’m really honored to be showing the movie here.” Choi, a Food & Wine magazine Best New Chef and pioneer in the food truck movement, also acted as a technical adviser for the movie’s cooking scenes. After learning how to cook from an alumnus, Favreau told students that his character, Carl Casper, is a CIA graduate in the off-camera “back story” he created to get into the role. In addition to Favreau, Chef stars Dustin Hoffman, Scar-lett Johansson, Sofía Vergara, John Leguizamo, Oliver Platt, and Robert Downey Jr.

Some occasions call for cru-dité, but most call for cheese, in my opinion. As my appetizer of choice, cheese is too often found on an a crude cheese board that is loaded with cuts of whatever the gourmet cheese connoisseur in you would believe to be delicious. I find these presentations to be more intimidating and disappoint-

ing rather than appetizing. If there were a dip of sorts, made from a crumbly cheese that can be easily incor-porated into any number of other ingredients to make something easily recognizable and accessible, that would be a different story.

Sun-Dried Tomato and Feta Dip

1 container crumbled feta 2 oz/4 oz jar sundried tomatoes, in oil, minced 1 tbsp cracked black pepper, as needed 1 tbsp combination of dried herbs and spices (oregano, parsley etc.) Olive oil, as needed

Combine all ingredients together and enjoy!

Brie with Fire Roasted Tomatoes in Balsamic

1 container grape tomatoes Olive oil, as needed Salt & Pepper, as needed 2 tbsp Balsamic vinegar 2 tsp red pepper flake

Dorm Room Recipes: Appetizer Edition!

Preheat an oven to 400° F. Toss the tomatoes in olive oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and red pepper flakes. Roast on a baking sheet until blistered and bursting. Remove and cool before putting in a container to serve.

I like to serve both of these appetizers with a variety of hearty crackers. The more difficulty you place on your-self to serve the perfect appetizer, the more your guests will take notice. These simple preparations are something that anyone can throw together at the last minute, or in a last ditch effort to feed a surprise guest – in fact, it can even be made in your dorm room.

BY: Stephanie Kirkland, BPS Culinary

Image courtesy of: http://afterdinnerdance.com



LA PAPILLOTECENTER SPREAD6

Center Spread

BY: Chef Dave McCue, CIA Faculty Contributor

What Would McCue Do? Editor’s Note: Chef McCue has a Facebook page up that highlights all the goings-on in his kitchens. Of course, the funniest ones are the catastrophes and the silly things students do. With his big heart and quick-witted tongue, we thought it would be fun to hear his advice on some of the students’ problems. We asked some students what was going on in their lives that they needed help with, and here are his replies. Need advice? Submit your questions to Chef McCue by emailing [email protected]. Chef McCue’s Note: First and foremost, I would like to thank everyone for considering my semi-vast accrual of selectively pertinent, and often trivial, knowledge as a psychological sounding board for the sophomoric shenanigans that students engage in on an all-too-frequent basis. Nevertheless, the fact that you are turning to a media source as a means of resolution can only mean one of two things: One, you realize this is solely for entertainment purposes and that this should be taken as seriously as financial advice from a Ouji board, or perhaps even skydiving advice from a turtle. Two, you really are at the end of your rope if this is all you have to go on. In which case, hold on, your life is about to get even more messed up if you listen to me. Welcome, one and all, to the WWMD advice page. Buckle up and enjoy the ride. I aspire to offend everyone equally.

Dear Chef McCue:I am a southern girl and my fundies partner keeps making jokes about me being a redneck and inbred. It’s really getting on my nerves. What should I say to him? Anonymous

Dear Anonymous:Most people that harass and abuse people do so because of their own inadequacies. But such behavior should not be permitted in the kitchen, or anywhere. I would be honest, tell him it bothers you and you would appreciate it if he would stop. If it continues, notify your Chef this is going on. I don’t know of anyone on this campus that would permit such behavior. If it still continues, bring me his name and picture, I would love the opportunity to have that conversation. And as a side note, can we stop calling it “fundies”? Dear Chef McCue:My step-sister is smokin’! Our parents have only been married for three years and they don’t get along. We don’t think we’re going to be “related” much longer, and we’re both over 18. Should I go for it?Mark, AOS Culinary

Dear Mark:No.PS. No. Dear Chef McCue:I have a special guy friend at home who I think I will eventually end up with… except he’s not doing anything NOW to keep me from dating other people. He has a son in another state and frequently travels there, and I know his son is his focus right now. I know he loves me, but he’s not doing anything to make this relationship more established or permanent. Should I just move on?Alexis, AOS Culinary

Dear Alexis:Why would you “just move on,” especially if you think you will be together eventually? You have a guy lined up who obviously adores his child, commits time and resources to fulfilling his family obligations, gives you room and freedom to pursue your career, and most importantly, loves you. Sounds like attributes most ladies would kill for. Perhaps you just need to practice a little patience. He sounds like a good guy from the limited information you shared. Just because he’s not chasing you down with your crystal slipper doesn’t mean he’s not your Prince Charming. Be cautious however.

If he’s telling you it’s okay to date other people, it probably means he is, too. Dear Chef McCue:I accidentally hit a parked car the other day, and fled the scene because I was scared. Now I feel really guilty, and my parents told me not to worry, that accidents happen, and that they will help me to navigate the situation if anything like this ever happens again. Now I want to find the person I hit to give them my insurance info. Should I turn myself in to the police?Anonymous

Dear Anonymous:I admire your honesty. We all make mistakes, and in the moment, denying responsibility seems like a good idea. And then you start to feel it, the guilt. People that hurt, damage, deceive, and feel no remorse drag down society, and quite frankly, make me sick. I’m glad you do feel the guilt, it means you have a soul. Relax, there is hope. Beware though, if you do turn yourself into the police, you will face charges, quite possibly lose your license, and face jail time… I know, being honest can hurt. But fleeing the scene of an accident ups the ante a little. Here’s a less costly, punitively speaking, solution. Call a lawyer. Tell them what happened and that you wish to find the people you harmed to make restitution, anonymously if possible. The lawyer may run you a few hundred dollars, but in the long run that’s the price for a good night’s sleep. For what it’s worth, I’d certainly be proud of you. Stop by and see me if you need more help on this. Dear Chef McCue:

WHY DON’T MEN CALL WHEN THEY SAY THEY’RE GOING TO CALL?? I met a really fun guy the other day, and we had a blast, and he asked for my phone number. Of course, I never heard from him. I’m so frustrated. Is it me? What do I have to do to get a guy to follow through and CALL me?L.L., AOS Culinary Dear L.L:Simply put, men are … well, simple. Typically, most will take the path of least resistance. He’s either sitting somewhere trying to work up the courage to call you, not interested in you (for whatever reason), or playing the field and hasn’t gotten around to you yet. If it were more apparent at your original encounter that he was going to get what he wanted from future encounters, the likelihood and immediacy of the callback would be more predictable. Is it you?

Perhaps, but from what I’ve seen as far as the options you ladies face here on campus, I’m going with “nope,” it ain’t you. But maybe concentrating on you is a possible solution. If I may be so bold as to comment further, not just to you L.L, but a lot of the single people I see here on campus: start with becoming the person you want to be. You are at the world’s premier culinary school! Can we all just stop thinking about relationships long enough to get a foothold on what is the long arduous journey of becoming a chef?! When I was a student here, I was here to be the best. Not to find a wife (or whatever you kids are looking for these days). I spent my days working towards that goal, working on becoming the best and working towards being successful. What do most people find attractive by the way? Success and confidence. Simply put, be what you want to be, know what you are looking for, tell the guy before you even start. You don’t need him and he knows it because you are successful. That then breeds confidence… and he tries harder with you because he knows he has to if you have it together. And guess what? You will walk away with the kind of man you want to spend the rest of your life with not just some fly-by-night loser. Like so many things in life, raise the bar. It’s the best way to make people compete for the prize.

Photo by: Maria Daniela Moreira Camia

La Papillote is looking for it’s new

Editor-in-Chief!The current editor is graduating this summer and we are beginning our search for the new

editor. The new editor must have good writing and grammar skills, and enjoy

managing a team! Must be available at least ten hours per week for newspaper duties.

Good organizational skills, good people skills, a go-getter attitude, and a sense of community

will serve the new editor well.

Send your resume to Eric Howard at [email protected] for consideration.

7June 13, 2014

Center SpreadChef Centerfold

BY: Chef Freddie Brash, CIA Faculty Contributor

What was it like working for David Burke?

I first worked for David when he was a sous chef at the River Café in Brooklyn for Charlie Palmer back around 1986. David was, and remains to be, that person who thinks outside the box. He is intense and eternally creative. I remember all so well at the River Café, sitting in the “warehouse” (a building outside of the restaurant that served as our locker room), switching out shifts with the day crew, the question we’d ask the guys was, “Is the hairy eye ball out?” Meaning, are things going well in the kitchen? If the answer was “No,” then you kept your head down and you did your job and you did it well. If not, the eye ball (David) would find you and well, we’ll just leave it at that. David then opened up the Park Ave Café and I became his Executive Sous Chef. That was when I felt my culinary mind opening to its full potential. Trying to stay one step ahead of Dave with creativity was a task that I could never achieve, but always kept on trying. An example of that was solving the problem of trying to serve people at the bar something to eat, which could sometimes be four-to-five people deep. How Chef Burke solved that problem was with a “church basket”. This basket would hold the food and there was a long handle that enabled the bartender to reach the people towards the back of the bar. If that was not enough, his next invention was the “blimp” amuse server. Dave had me filling up balloons with helium, then I’d place a napkin over it with strings on all four corners, with the string ends tied tight to a basket underneath, and we started to float the bar food to the people. Who

Chef DwayneLiPuma

Chef-Instructor at American Bounty Restaurant

thinks of that?! The food was always state-of-the-art and the adventure never ended, which made it fun.

We understand that you have a long commute, because you live in Brooklyn. That’s a two hour drive, one way. So, your total daily commute is four hours. What is it about the CIA that keeps you here?

The energy, drive, and growth of the stu-dents is amazing to watch. The knowledge that is passed from chef to chef, and from student to chef, etc., is fantastic. Yes, the block system sometimes can get challenging, but not enough to keep me away. Working in Restaurant Row is so rewarding. I have everything I need: motivated people (stu-dents), culinary freedom to do and be as creative as my imagination will let me. The environment in Restaurant Row is so unique that it just feels like the right fit for me. There has to be something here because it was only supposed to be a pit stop for me. Many years later, I still love it. Every day is a new adventure.

Word on the street is that you are able to do the service at American Bounty By yourself. Is that true?

Yes, and no. I definitely can do the entire front line (entrees and hot appetizers). However, I would need my pastry department and someone in garde manger. By no means am I saying that to brag. I state this to my students so that they understand the reality of labor cost. And the real-ity is, the 80 -100 covers for the day should be run with no more than three cooks, one of them being the chef, who would expedite and cook. I want the students to understand what is expected of them when they graduate. The objective of Restaurant Row is to hone your craft, and that is what I make them do every day. So could I do it myself every day? No. Could I do it, if needed, in the moment? Absolutely. I did it one time in American Bounty and three times in Caterina .

What keeps you in Brooklyn?

If it was up to me, I would stay in Brooklyn the rest of my life. It’s the new food hub of New York. It is what people expect when they visit New York. It is all about the neighborhoods. It feels like home to me.

Any advice for the young chefs of the future?

It is all about the attention to details. From seasoning your food correctly, to letting your meat rest before you cut it, to cooling your beans in the liquid you cooked them in, to the wet towel under your cutting board, to keeping your mise en place cold, clean and fresh. The small things are what I find that everyone overlooks. Crossing all your T’s and dotting all of your I’s every day is key. Never put off what you need to do today for tomorrow, because it can become overwhelming. Slow down and focus on the techniques. Speed and all other skills will fall into place.

Flashback—It’s your first day of orientation as a CIA student. You don’t even own whites from the CIA yet. You’re nervous that someone is going to ask you about a béarnaise and you don’t know what the hell that is. You’re nervous that you’re not going to make friends. You’re wondering what

that furry little creature running around on campus is. You make it to lunch, and oh, Lord, would you look at all that dessert. The colors. The plating. The cake. I wonder why no one is eating the cake? It doesn’t matter, I’ll try it all anyway. You finish your main course and move on to des-sert. Magic schoolbus moment: there are some really interesting things going on here physiologically and psychologically. First, what’s happening in your mind: if you’ve eaten processed, packaged foods regularly for your whole life (i.e. if you’re an average American) then you’ve likely been conditioned by “optimized” ratios of sugar, salt, and fat to eat more than you need. This is the goal of most industrial food companies. Such hyper-palatable foods create overeating habits. Among people who have trouble controlling their eating, MRI scans have shown that the brain gen-erates a response in the motor system before the conscious mind is even aware of what’s going on. Now what’s happening in your body: as you eat your dessert, your amygdala, the part of the brain responsible for releasing dopamine (the drug re-sponsible for a feeling of pleasure) fails to stop firing when you eat the dessert, and keeps on going. This encourages more eating. On top of that, if you’re poorly nourished to begin with, you’re more prone to sugar addiction. Most of us come to terms with the abundance of food here at the CIA. The excitement fades to a more balanced approach. Most everyone takes it in stride. But if you are struggling with overeating, understand that the problem lies in part with the way our food system has encouraged and profited from overeating. Also understand that if this is something you’re unhappy about, it can be changed. Habits can be re-formed. A balance of fat, carbs and protein can create a feeling of satisfaction at the end of a meal. Many Asian cuisines, such as Japanese, emphasize bal-ance and harmony in dishes, much more so that the American pleasure-centric dining. Each part of the dish can be the antidote for the other. Less good and bad, more balance. Umami is related to feeling full—we have umami receptors in our stomachs. Also, the assumed sixth taste kokumi could be linked to satiety. Kokumi translates roughly to a sensation of mouthful-ness or heartiness, and as Harold McGee puts when eating Kokumi-rich foods, “The flavors seemed amplified and balanced, as if the volume control and had been turned up and an equalizer turned on. They also seemed somehow to cling to my mouth--a tactile feeling--and to last longer before fading away.” On a chemical level, kokumi has been linked to the pres-ence of calcium, L-histadine (an amino acid) and a number of other molecules. We’ve been conditioned to overeat. As informed people, conscious of this problem, we have the ability to reject this Brave New World. As cooks, we have a unique venue to inform the public. Rather than a City Upon A Hill, we have Restaurants Upon A Hill whose trends and habits the rest of the country will follow. What example will we set when we’re the ones running the show?

BountyBY: Phil Boser, AOS Culinary

8LA PAPILLOTE

The syzygium samarangense is a plant species in the Myrtaceae family, native to East India and Malaysia. Syzyguym samarangen-ese is only one of its many names, other names Include common English names Jambu air (in local Indonesian and Malay), Champoo (from a translation of the Thai name), lembu or lian-woo (native

Taiwanese name), wax apple, love apple, java apple, royal apple, cloud apple, and rose apple (rose apple sounds pretty, so I use the name rose apple). The rose apple a bell-shaped, edible, berry available from January to August each year. The colors of it ranges from white, pale green, green to red, purple, crimson, to deep purple and even black. It is from a tropical tree grow-ing to twelve meters tall, and the tree is considered to be a heavy bearer, bearing a crop of up to seven hundred fruits. Two of the most highly prized rose apples are purplish-red “black pearls” and the very rare green pearls. When ripe, the fruit puffs outwards with a slight concavity in the middle underside of the “bell”. Healthy rose apples have a light sheen. Despite being called an”apple”, the rose apple

Rose AppleBY: Yisi “Crystal” Tan, AOS Baking and Pastry

only resembles actual apples in its exterior color. The taste is more similar to a snow pear, with a crunch and a mild sour taste. The water content of it resembles a watermelon, as it is remarkably refreshing and juicy. Rose apples are low in calories and rich in antioxidants. In India, the fruit is regarded as a tonic for the brain and the liver. Main nutrients in the rose apple includes calcium, fiber, vitamin A, and vitamin C. Rose apples are easy to eat, too. All you have to do is wash the fruit and remove the coreand it is ready for consumption. In cuisine of the Indian Ocean Islands, the fruit is frequently used in salads, as well as in lightly sautéed dishes. Found throughout Kerala, where it is called champakka orchambakka, it is mainly eaten as a fruit but is also used to make pickles. It is commonly eaten out-of-hand. The fruit is also delicious in salads, pies and made into juice. To buy fresh rose apples, select firm and bruise-free rose apples. The color ranges widely and shouldn’t be used as in indicator of ripeness. The texture is a better indicator of ripeness. A ripe rose apple should be crisp and firm.

Image courtesy of: http://www.mbg.com.my/MBG/news-a-updates/weekly-info/1414-water-guavajambu-air.html

I believe food that defines us, and as Brillat Savarin said, you are what you eat. My world revolves around Polish cuisine. Yes, I am one hundred percent Polish and for some this is hard to believe. Others immediately think pierogi, perhaps because it is the world-famous Polish dumpling. Yet, there are so many other delicacies from Hunter’s Stew, stewed cab-

bage and deli meats, fried chicken cutlets resembling German schnitzel, and the classic charcuterie kielbasa. Not to mention, cabbage filled with rice and ground beef, fatty rillet, carp in a horseradish sauce, borsch with mushroom dumplings, and so much more. Although the names are difficult to pronounce, Polish desserts are as decadent as the savory good eats. Nalesniki are Polish style crepes containing sweetened farmer’s cheese with a splash of vanilla. Paczki, good luck pronouncing that, is a Polish donut filled with succulent Bavarian cream, rose water jam, or an apple spice concoction. Faworki is buttery dough coated in confection sugar and shaped into angel wings. The famous Polish dessert is makowiec, a poppy seed roll that is typically coated with sweet icing. Now veering away from the compli-cated names, danishes filled with sweetened farmer’s cheese are delicious. As you can see, Polish people like their sweets.To wash all these delectable foods down, the Polish are very fond of compotes, also known as fruit juice that features fresh fruit, dried fruit, water and sugar. Vodka is the solution to any festivity or dinner parties for the adults of course. Wines and wheat style beers are also commonly drunk to compliment or contrast the flavor profiles of a meal. Now that you know more about Polish cuisine, I suggest you try some for yourself. Bon Appetite!

BY: Daniel Jarosz, BPS Culinary

Eat Polish

Celebrity chef Dean Fearing ’78 visited the CIA San Antonio in May to promote his new cookbook, The Texas Food Bible. The chef-partner of Fearing’s Restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton in Dallas is one of the pioneers of Southwestern and contemporary Texas cuisine. While on campus, Chef Fearing held a book signing and worked with Nao executive chef Geronimo Lopez and students to present a reception and dinner at the restau-rant featuring several recipes from the cookbook:

• Smoked Chicken Nachos • Mango, Poblano, and Caramelized Onion Quesadillas with Cilantro-Lime Sour Cream • Dean’s Tortilla Soup with South-of-the-Border Flavors • Grilled Lamb Chops with Baked Chuck Wagon Black Beans and Sweet Potato Rajas • Caramelized Apple Buckle

Proceeds from the $80-a-plate dinner supported the college.

Dean Fearing Hosts Benefit Dinner at

San Antonio CampusBY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer

FOOD & BEVERAGE 9June 13, 2014

Soda Water Beverage GardenBlack Birch

SassafrasSpruce

WinterberryWild Sarsparilla

Pachysandra

Future projects may include new “Herbs of the World“ gardens on Anton Plaza and a “Four Seasons” fruit and vegetable garden with cold frames alongside the staircase from the Residence Halls to Roth Hall.

The Route 9 corridor is the gateway from the Culinary Institute of America to the town of Hyde Park to the north and to Poughkeepsie to the south. The CIA’s property north of the main entrance has always functionally utilized a large berm that shields the parking lots and cars from view by visitors to the town. The property south of the main entrance has always been completely visible due to the grades and existing plantings. The objective of this latest project was to enhance the plant-ings to completely block views of the parking lots and vehicles with larger plantings that are more salt tolerant. In addition we wanted the main entrance to create an attractive promenade for students, staff, faculty, and visitors to the campus with a more inviting, aesthetic experience as they travel through campus. But again, for functional reasons, more salt tolerant material was selected to create a natural barrier around the parking lots. A food themed topiary is also under construction that will sit at the main entrance. This work was designed by our campus landscape architectural firm, Diane Devore Associates. The new “Beverage Garden” in the plaza outside of Mar-riott Pavilion is also their work and reflects the CIA’s desire to have our project work enhance the educational experience for our students.

In the Beverage Garden, there are four separate sections:

Fruit Juice/Fermented Beverage GardenApple Trees

GrapesFraise de Boise

Distilled Beverage Garden

HerbsEastern Red Cedar

HopsBarley,Wheat, Rye

Herbal Tea Garden

Clover SeedChamomile

MintRoses

Lemon BalmNew Jersey Tea

RaspberryViolets

The time has come to start packing my belongings, and roll up my knives as my first year at The Culinary Institute of America comes to a pleasant end. The days have been long, and the classes have been nothing short of infor-mative as I recollect every memory I have had up to this point. Hope-fully after reading this, it will shed

some light on the experience for prospective students. Externship is creeping faster than you realize, and I can happily say that I am up to the new and exciting chal-lenges to come. Everything leading up to this point has been no easy ride, as I have come to realize. I almost did not pull through at some points. The important thing is that I am still here, and still standing, and I believe that everyone should think this way when they are in a rut themselves. The amount of support I have received on and off-campus has been tremendous, and I want to thank each person for that. I encourage everyone to seek help, whether it be through the CAPS program, from your chef, your friends, or any other faculty member for that matter. People here

are willing to help you. Thinking back to seven months ago when this journey started, I did not know what to expect. The skills and the drive to do well were there, but it was never really clear as to what was to be expected of me as a student. Nonethe-less, I always kept a positive mindset, and maintained it throughout. Starting with my first set of classes, I aimed for many goals to accomplish, but then harsh reality set in. You start to see all your deficiencies and weaknesses in certain areas that you thought were skilled in before, and it takes you down a few notches. For myself, this contin-ued for a few months, and eventually, I saw myself at a very low point. These drastic changes helped me see that all things are not perfect, and that this school requires some precision work. One saying I always lived by to keep me going is, “If it was easy, then everybody would do it.” This speaks volumes to me, and I’m sure many can relate to it as well. One piece of advice I can recommend to those with any doubts about their abilities, is to try and not worry about your grades. I know they’re important, but we are also not in a normal college by any means. We are here to hone our skills in the kitchen, and if that means making a few mistakes, then so be it. You can’t beat yourself up for

trying, but you can take what you have learned and use it to your advantage. Don’t hesitate to seek assistance in any area of your work, because there are more than enough departments here on the school grounds to help you reach your highest goals, and even go beyond what you have expected of yourself. I was able to utilize all the aforementioned resources and improve myself every day, no matter how little prog-ress there actually was on a daily basis. You will have good days and bad days. I soon saw a personal transfor-mation like any other, you find yourself pushing harder, paying more attention to detail and why it finally makes sense that you continuously improve your skills with each moment that passes in the kitchen. I find that complet-ing tasks within a certain timeframe is easier now, simply because my mental state now produces a whole new level of concentration and that elevated confidence boost gets me really ecstatic to produce great food. You get out what you put in, so be sure to make every situation count towards the bettering of yourself, and the time spent here at school will always feel fully rewarding no matter the outcome. I know now that is my focus and my goal.

Within the YearBY: Brandon Sims, AOS Culinary

New Campus LandscapingBY: Thomas Hirst, CIA Director of Facilities

The San Antonio campus is the site of the annual Healthy Flavors, Healthy Kids leadership conference, which promotes healthy, flavorful foods for K-12 students across the country. For 2014, more than 120 foodservice leaders from 27 states gathered for three days in May to review standards, discuss challenges, and share strategies. During the conference, the college an-nounced the launch of a new website, CIAHealthyKids.com. Attendees represented schools as large as the Los Ange-les Unified School District and as small as the Viroqua Area School District in Wisconsin, and all sizes in between. Among the 30 guest chefs and presenters were New York City chef Jehangir Mehta; pediatric nutritionist Dr. Ines Anchondo; and Registered Dietitian Kate Hoy of the Cornell Center for Behavioral Economics in Child Nutrition Programs.

Healthy Kids Conference in San Antonio

It ’s spring again at the CIA We’ve all been waiting for the snow to go away

now that it has we can go out and play in the Sun by the pool at the beach

Our professors we hope to let us go outside to teachAway from the kitchens that reek of bleach

Because no one’s mind is on the prize when it ’s 80 degrees and sunny outside

It ’s spring again at the CIABut be quick make hasteThere’s no time to waste

Because knowing this weather it could change any minuteGo enjoy the earth, go bask in it, go live it.

It ’s Spring Again at the CIABY: Christian Duncan, AOS Culinary


LA PAPILLOTE10

AOS Graduating Class of June 13, 2014

AOS Graduation Speaker: Thomas Macrina Thomas “Tom” Macrina is the national president of the American Culinary Federation for 2013–2015 and the executive chef/product specialist manager for US Foods, Philadelphia Division, a position he has held since 2011. He is an ACF Certified Executive Chef and Certified Cu-linary Administrator, as well as a member of the prestigious Honorable Order of the Golden Toque and the American Academy of Chefs, the ACF honor society. After receiving his associate degree with honors from The Culinary Institute of America in 1976, Chef Macrina began his culinary career as executive chef at the Down-ingtown Inn Resort in Downingtown, PA. He moved on to become executive chef at the Clayton Plaza Hotel in St. Louis, MO before joining Tabas Enterprises in 1981 as cor-porate executive chef, where he oversaw operations for eight properties. In 1997, Chef Macrina signed on as executive chef for The Desmond Hotel and Conference Center in Malvern, PA, a position he held until assuming his current title at US Foods. Throughout his career, Chef Macrina has received a long list of accolades, the most notable including the ACF Chicago Chefs of Cuisine Inc.’s Most Honored Chef, the AAC Chair’s Medal, four ACF President’s Medal-lions, the ACF National Chef Professionalism Award, the ACF Award for Culinary Excellence, and induction in the Disciples of Escoffier. His most recent honors include the Antonin Carême Medal and being selected as a Food Fanatics™ Chef for US Foods. Advancing the industry, fostering the talents of culi-

nary students, and helping his community are important to Chef Macrina. He has made significant contributions to furthering the industry as ACF national secretary, ACF Culinary Team USA business manager, AAC chair, and ACF Philadelphia Delaware Valley Chefs Association chapter president. Chef Macrina remains an active member of the AAC, ACF Philadelphia Delaware Valley Chefs As-sociation, Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Escoffier Society of Chi-cago, National Restaurant Association, and Pennsylvania Restaurant & Lodging Association’s Brandywine Chapter. His dedication to developing the skills of culinary students has been tireless, serving as an advisory board member for the Central Montgomery County Center of Vocational Technical Studies, The Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College, and The Art Institute of Philadelphia, and previously for Bucks County Community College. In addition, he was coach for the ACF Philadelphia Delaware Valley Chefs Association Student Team and ACF Culinary Youth Team USA, as well as chair of the ACF Education Foundation Apprenticeship Committee and AAC Educa-tion. Giving back to his local community is natural for Chef Macrina, whether it is cooking, donating food, or sharing his expertise. Some of his charitable work includes serv-ing on the boards and/or committees of organizations such as Home of the Sparrow, The Salvation Army, the March of Dimes, and the Red Cross. His dedication has been recognized with honors including the March of Dimes Guy Prepberin Award and The Salvation Army’s Service Award.

Baking & Pastry Front Row: Autumn Richards, Shai-Lea Penta, Dominique Lombardo, Margaret Reul-bach, Mariah Neston, Melody Mishkin, Corey BernorBack Row: Julianne Lilholt, Samantha Ayotte, Emily Turner, Alexandra Albini, Nathan Bateman, Jared Plaxe, Emily Fenton, Wendy Chang, Krista Twiss

Culinary Arts Group #1 Front Row: Marco Olivares, Ungki Lee, Ashok Bandaru, Jiyoung Park, Daniela Moreira, Karina Gonzalez, Rebekah Dickson, Hitesh ShanbhagBack Row: Kerry Schutter, Nick Spiegel, Michael Swift, William Mack, Keegan Mitch-ell, Jason Kellogg, Jonathan Ong, Mujahid Akber, A.J. Sisk

Culinary Arts Group #2Front Row: Brianna Hardester, Nicholas Sweigert, Janelle Timpe, Jack Nugent, Patrick Owens, John Carlo De VeraBack Row: Xavier Pervez, Drew Hancock, Zack Taylor, Tyler Potts, Tyler Handler, Henry Chou, Courtney Parlman

Culinary Arts Group #3Front Row: Angelyne Schofield, Matt Allen, Kelly Jennerich, Jay Cosico, Madison O’Leary, Stefan C. Arliyanto, Samantha Foresti, Marcela AlanisBack Row: Megan Brown, Josefina Martinez, Lauren McNulty, Ryan Fox, Maxwell A. Moreis, Jesse Daniels, Michael DiPaola, Brett Rothstein, Paul Valenti, Courtney Hamb-lin

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We all know of the never ending flame in the kitchen, but what about what is inside of us? That is what we know as passion. The everlasting feeling of knowing what is right for us, in whatever situation we have put ourselves into. Here at The Culinary Institute of America, students and faculty show nothing less of what we come here for every day, the desire

to succeed. It is hard to believe that some wake up at dawn just to cook a simple meal, whether it be for service in one of our many kitchens, or just for the sheer necessity of practice. The amount of investment here seems almost unreal sometimes. Of course, everyone has their own standard of this intense feeling and sharing that with others within the community is some-thing that not many other schools could even compare to. Many can attest to that sheer buildup of excitement as you overcome previously daunting tasks, like the dreadful Hollandaise or even the complete perfection of an assembled dish that makes you gleam with pride. There are those that always ask why we put ourselves through such strenuous days, and long hours. It is almost proven that there are many that cannot even answer that themselves, but that is precisely where the love of what you are doing rises above all. Hard, but caring work produces a product that simply sits right, being grateful for the opportunity to form and incorporate ingredients into a bold creation that shows any guest that what you are all about is true and sincere. Food is what we are, and we embrace it every day through endless ideas, recipes, and countless trial and error. A wondrous aspect of CIA is the variousways you can take your interests and desires and mold them into your culinary personality. To find your calling is to find yourself. Often times your roots are what get you fired up, and being absorbed in activities you have been a part of since birth is meaningful to you. If everyone were fortunate enough to really take in the depth and breadth of what food is, and just how much it really means is quite has ushered in a new age of dedication to wholesome products and care for the earth. That would seem like every passionate person’s dream fulfilled, to share why they do what they love and keep on about what living truly means. Developing the required skills can seem like a large obstacle to overcome, but thesheer determina-tion that it takes to succeed by trying hard to be a perfectionist seems reason enough to get going and start improving. The optimism and willpower of a chef is something to be admired as theyimprove on themselves every minute in the kitchen, constantly questioning every step on the way, to fulfillment of what they have always imagined themselves to be. It does not seem to matter your age oryour limitations, as these are only minor obstacles to overcome to make the slightest amount of progress. Thinking of the future which will bring dedicated and knowledgeable people into your orbit, definitely brings a fight-ing chance to make a perfect world. Love what you are doing, and passion willsoon overtake you and show the true dedicated professional that you have dreamed of becoming. If you believe it you can achieve it, and if you are truly passionate it is highly encouraged that you set out to wholeheartedly fulfill it.

The FireWithin

BY: Brandon Sims, AOS Culinary To reduce this book to being simply about race would not be fair to Marcus Samuelsson. Although race has played an enormous role his life (as it does with anyone else), it feels almost shallow to describe this book being about a black chef because it is just as much about family, community, and finding “home” as it is about

Samuelsson’s rise as a black chef. Born in Ethiopia as Kassahun Tsegie, Samuelsson was adopted along with his sister, at the age of two, after a tu-berculosis crisis that infected him, his sister, and his moth-er. Knowing that there was no chance of survival for them

Book ReviewBY: Emilio Cerra, AOS Culinary

in their small, rural village, Samuelsson’s mother carried him and his sister on a seventy-five mile trek to the capital city, Addis Ababa, in order to receive medical aid. Although Samuelsson and his sister both received treatment, their mother did not survive. They were subsequently adopted by a Swedish family who raised them in Gothenburg, Sweden. Although Samuelsson’s adopted family made a major effort to not only treat him and his sister as one of their own, but also to help them learn about black culture and their heri-tage, this acceptance was not all that common in Sweden or in other European countries. Samuelsson describes multiple incidences where he would arrive at a restaurant to secure a stage or a job, and, once seeing the color of his skin, there was no question that he was not getting the job. This hap-pening once would be disheartening enough, but to have this happen multiple times was difficult for Samuelsson and contributed to his feeling of not having a true home. Samuelsson dreamed of being a soccer star as a child, but due to his smaller stature in comparison to his Swedish teammates he was cut from the competitive youth team for which he played. At the same time, he was learning to cook from his grandmother, as well as learning at a local culinary school and working at a local restaurant. Samuelsson felt comfortable in the kitchen, not only because of his love for food and cooking, but also because of the feeling of camara-derie and team structure was familiar to him because of his soccer background. The book follows his life from Sweden, to Switzerland, and then to France, and then finally onto the United States. He outlines the hardship of leaving his family and losing his best friend, as well as gives us his reaction to his success in becoming the youngest chef to receive three stars from the New York Times while he was at Aquavit. Finally, Samuelsson discusses opening his own restaurant, Red Rooster in Harlem, with clarity as well as a tremendous amount of humility, always giving credit where due and never trying to take over the spotlight. The amount of passion and energy Samuelsson has put into his craft during his lifetime is tremendously inspiring. He also inspires with his his desire to learn, embrace, and share his heritage, both the Ethiopian or Swedish aspects. There is something for everyone in this book, something to enjoy, learn from, be inspired by, and find motivating in their pursuit of their passion for food.

“It ’s only fundamentals.” That ’s what is told in every class. “Know your basics, live by them, learn from your mis-takes. Only then can you get anywhere.” Every time this is mentioned, there exists one of three truths: It gets done right. It gets blatantly ignored and done wrong. Or, it is listened to, heard, explained… twice... three times… and still messed up. And again, and again.

Burning food, or taking three hours to peel and cut carrots, or somebody insisting that they know everything. When a chef admires the brilliant color of the carbon beet footprint cemented to a pan, tearing a hole in the ozone. You laugh, but you were there, too. It happened to all of us. Nobody walked into the kitchen for the first time and created perfection. And if they say they did they are lying. So the question becomes: if we know it ’s wrong, why not do it right? It ’s better than purposefully doing it wrong, when we know what right is, watching chef overturn the pot onto the table for not making it right, then walking away to let you admire your next cleaning job that delays you from making it again. Correctly. Listening to them tell you (once again) about fundamentals. If you do know everything, prove it. Prove that you know everything, so that it looks strange that you are paying to go to school, when you al-ready know everything there is to know. So just listen, the chefs won’t lie to you. You want to be the best, regardless of whether that means in the kitchen, bakery, behind the bar, in the lab, or in the office. So stand up for the fundamentals. With fundamentals and common sense, you can’t go wrong. They are the step-ping stones of our lives. Keep an open mind and move onward with the building blocks of your career!

Fundies on ReplayBY: The Quiet Culinarian, AOS Culinary

BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

All In Good TasteA Commentary on Life at the CIA as a Non-Traditional Student

Soooooooo. Front of the house. Yeah. I am currently in my first actual service class here at the CIA, which happens towards the end of your AOS studies here (service to the public, not the five-day class where we wait on other students in East Wing Dining Room). Nine weeks

out from graduation, you, too, will be required to perform service to guests at the CIA, whether it is in Caterina di Medici, American Bounty, Bocuse, or the Apple Pie Bakery. We chefs-to-be don’t like this requirement for gradu-ation. I call it the “fish-out-of-water” syndrome. None of us feel fully comfortable in the front of the house. We fight this, we bitch, and we moan and complain about it. We dread it. We’d rather hide in the kitchen, away from people, away from the public, working feverishly to produce amaz-ing food for our guests. None of us wants to be out front, with our happy faces on, playing nice, not swearing, and putting up with the general public. But we have to do it. The irony of my situation is that I’ve already made a living this way before. Quite unhappily so, I must add. I have worked at Red Lobster, Ponderosa (both during col-lege years, about 20 years ago), dive bars (waiting tables, bartender), a pub in Dublin, Ireland, and upscale country clubs. I hated every one of those jobs. However, at the time, I wasn’t qualified to do much else. Front of the house takes a special kind of person. Someone who is successful in the front of house is someone who knows how to prioritize and hustle, but when you ac-tually get to the table, the guests have to perceive that they are your only table, that you have all the time in the world to spend with them, and that you are happy to cater to their every whim. For whatever reason, this does not come naturally to those of us at the CIA studying to be chefs. It tends to be an eye-opening three weeks, as we journey from sheer ter-ror to utter discomfort to ho-hum acceptance that waiting tables is our current life. It does get easier, I’ve found, and there are even moments that I enjoy. Like getting good comment cards. It seems that this is the sole fuel that keeps us going. We love the praise, we like to know that we’re doing well. Beyond that, it really does just feel like we are fish out of water. All of us seem to have one aspect of it that we do well. My friend Mike, he’s a schmoozer. He could, and would, schmooze the panties off of your mother, and I mean that in the most complimentary way possible (to Mike, I

mean!). He’s just so likable. He greets people so formally, so charismatically. In the pantry, of course, he’s dropping F-bombs, grabbing fellow students’ asses (because that’s what we do in the back of house, is it not?!), and basically talking about how much he hates front of house. He looks physically pained in the pantry. However, the minute that door swings open and he sets foot in the dining room, he turns it on, and Mike becomes super-stud waiter guy, and is the server we all want to have wait on us. He laughs at old ladies’ jokes, he squeezes babies’ cheeks, he makes teenage girls swoon (oh, wait, never mind, that’s Alex Obenauer who does that!). But, serving just does not come naturally to him, even though it appears that it does. Which is the conundrum, really. What if you’re really good at something, but thoroughly, completely despise do-ing it? Well, what I’ve realized in my life is, I can do just about anything for the short-term. I always laugh at those Wife Swap shows, where the new wife is crying because the new husband doesn’t understand her and makes her do chores, or whatever shortcoming the woman has that the show is trying to highlight. I always think, “It ’s two weeks of her life. How is she so upset over something that she knows is temporary?” That’s pretty much how I get through all my classes here: A voice in my head chants, “It ’s only three weeks… it’s only three weeks…” Three weeks can, actually, seem like a lifetime when you’re miserable, though. However, I can attest to the fact that the stress in the front of the house is actually rather minimal compared to a chef screaming at you about the composition of your dishes. I have had a relatively smooth journey through American Bounty front-of-house service for lunch. Far smoother than my back-of-house experience at American Bounty. So, even though I dread service, the stress of service lasts a maximum three hours, and usu-ally the major stress is limited to about 45 minutes when patrons are arriving and people are being seated and you’re beginning to serve them. By the time people are half-way through their entrees, the pace becomes much more man-ageable. I have two reasons why I hate serving. One of them is reasonable and the other one is embarrassing. First of all, I hate being discombobulated, feeling stressed, causing a diner to have a bad experience, or simply falling short of delivering a truly relaxing, pleasant service for people. Sometimes I just don’t feel capable of juggling all those tasks and remembering all those requests. Sometimes I’m not feeling social and a lot of times the general public isn’t pleasant to deal with. But my biggest issue with serving is my ego. While I utterly enjoy people coming over to my house and ensuring that they have an amazing time, I detest waiting on people. Why? Because I’m a Leo. I’m a priss.

I feel like people should be waiting on me, I shouldn’t be waiting on them. Yes, I just said that. I mean, I’m certainly not proud of that sentiment. But if I’m going to be hon-est, that’s the way I feel. I try to never be led by my ego, because ego is dangerous, but I’m cognizant of its voice. However, I believe wholeheartedly that this experience is good for me, and I’m making an effort to learn how to suc-cessfully serve people in a way that they have an amazing experience. I like to squelch my ego’s voice, because a lot of times it leads me astray, but learning to serve people suc-cessfully is important for a much more practical reason. If we end up owning restaurants, we need to know what kind of service that we want to provide to our guests, and we need to understand how that occurs. We need to understand it thoroughly so that we can teach our employ-ees how to do it properly. If we are restaurant owners, there will come a time when we are not always in the kitchen. We will find ourselves in the front of house interacting with guests, and knowing how to properly be a gracious host is critical to our success. For this reason, we need to not just get through this class, we need to rock it. We need to thoroughly learn the ins and outs of service, and we need to do it well. We need to get comfortable in our skin performing service. Service is your guest’s entire experience. It is their perception of your restaurant. They don’t know how hard you work in the kitchen. They have no idea what hap-pens back there. They only see the results on their plate, and their liaison between the plate and your efforts in the kitchen is their server. You need to know how that server is presenting your hard work. You need to know how you want that server to present your hard work. So while this feels like a waste of our time, it ’s actually a huge part of any success we have. In fact, I would say that while learning to cook is the most important thing you will do in school, I believe that learning to serve correctly is a close second. Your service classes might feel like throw-away classes, but it is actually one of the most important things you will learn here. You’re learning to create the exact experience that your guest has. When you think about it like that, it becomes rewarding, almost fun. What kind of service will your restaurant provide?

“Gastrotypographicalassemblage” is a 33-foot-wide, eight-foot-tall, three-dimensional mural that hung in the CBS cafeteria from the 1960s through 1980s, where only the com-pany’s employees could appreciate it. After being saved from the trash heap in 1989, the piece had no home—until now. The 1,650 individual letters spelling out culinary expressions and 65 food-related objects that make up this unique artwork are now

on display in the new Marriott Pavilion on the CIA’s Hyde Park campus. The work was the brainchild of legendary CBS Art Director Lou Dorfsman, and is affectionately known as “Lou’s Wall.” The twists and turns of how Lou’s Wall found its way to the CIA to be put on public display for the first time ever has been the subject of feature stories by CBS “This Morning” and The

The New York Times & CBS Feature New Art Installation At CIA

New York Times, where “Building Blocks” columnist David W. Dunlop called it “the perfect backdrop for commencement snapshots.” Commencement ceremonies, industry leadership confer-ences, lectures by luminaries of the food world, and other special events are held in the Marriott Pavilion, which opened in March and was dedicated on May 1.


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