2013 PC Discovery, Alaska

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DiscoveryA tempting culinary selection

A delightful array of shops on board

The best way to see Alaska

A l a s k a

13_Discovery_AK_Cover.indd 1 3/26/13 12:57 PM

Gold Quartz ColleCtIon

MADE IN U.S.A.S i n c e 1 9 7 5

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DiamonDs international Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan na Hoku Hawaii GeorGios & Co. Mykonos, Greece tHe GolD Corner Florence, Italy

For your nearest retailer call 800.521.5986 or visit us at www.kabana.net

2212.indd 2 2/27/13 10:40 AM

Gold Quartz ColleCtIon

MADE IN U.S.A.S i n c e 1 9 7 5

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DiamonDs international Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan na Hoku Hawaii GeorGios & Co. Mykonos, Greece tHe GolD Corner Florence, Italy

For your nearest retailer call 800.521.5986 or visit us at www.kabana.net

2212.indd 3 2/27/13 10:40 AM

www.hublot.com • twitter.com/hublot • facebook.com/hublot

Big Bang Ferrari. UNICO column wheel chronograph movement, 72-hour power reserve. Entirely manufactured

by Hublot. Titanium case and sapphire dial. Interchangeable black rubber straps with either black leather and black

stitching or alcantara with red and black stitching. Limited edition of 1000 pieces.

T H E A R T O F F U S I O N

DIAMONDS INTERNATIONALKetchikan - Juneau - Skagway

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www.hublot.com • twitter.com/hublot • facebook.com/hublot

Big Bang Ferrari. UNICO column wheel chronograph movement, 72-hour power reserve. Entirely manufactured

by Hublot. Titanium case and sapphire dial. Interchangeable black rubber straps with either black leather and black

stitching or alcantara with red and black stitching. Limited edition of 1000 pieces.

T H E A R T O F F U S I O N


2209.indd 3 3/11/13 10:54 AM

www.piaget-altiplano.com

TWO WORLD RECORDS

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its legendary Calibre 12Plaunched in 1960, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piagetsets two new records in the ultra-thin quest.

Thanks to this new Calibre 1208P, the Piaget Altiplano watchmeasures just 5.25 mm thick, making it the world’s thinnestautomatic watch - a second record.

Featuring an off-centred oscillating weight, the new generation1208P is the world’s thinnest automatic movement on themarket at just 2.35 mm thick - a first record.

Diamonds InternationalJuneau, Ketchikan and Skagway

ULTIMATE DISCRETION

PIAGET ALTIPLANOThe world’s thinnest automatic watchWhite gold case, 5.25 mm thickThe world’s thinnest automatic movementPiaget Manufacture Calibre, 2.35 mm thick

2237.indd 2 3/11/13 3:39 PM

www.piaget-altiplano.com

TWO WORLD RECORDS

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its legendary Calibre 12Plaunched in 1960, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piagetsets two new records in the ultra-thin quest.

Thanks to this new Calibre 1208P, the Piaget Altiplano watchmeasures just 5.25 mm thick, making it the world’s thinnestautomatic watch - a second record.

Featuring an off-centred oscillating weight, the new generation1208P is the world’s thinnest automatic movement on themarket at just 2.35 mm thick - a first record.

Diamonds InternationalJuneau, Ketchikan and Skagway

ULTIMATE DISCRETION

PIAGET ALTIPLANOThe world’s thinnest automatic watchWhite gold case, 5.25 mm thickThe world’s thinnest automatic movementPiaget Manufacture Calibre, 2.35 mm thick

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www.zenith-watches.com/felixbaumgartner

EL PRIMERO STRATOSThe fi rst watch to break the sound barrier in

a near space environment

MISSION TO THE EDGE OF SPACE

Felix Baumgartner, holder of three new records after his freefall jump from the stratosphere during the Red Bull Stratos Mission

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www.zenith-watches.com/felixbaumgartner

EL PRIMERO STRATOSThe fi rst watch to break the sound barrier in

a near space environment

MISSION TO THE EDGE OF SPACE

Felix Baumgartner, holder of three new records after his freefall jump from the stratosphere during the Red Bull Stratos Mission

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The Night Belongs to YouNighttime Activities When the sun goes down, the curtain rises on a constellation of thrilling nighttime enticements.

The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in

part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic,

mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise — is forbidden without express, written permission

from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of

unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Electronic queries only will

be acknowledged. E-mail to: [email protected]. Commentary and opinions expressed

in Discovery are not necessarily those of the cruise line. Princess Cruises is not responsible for

any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Discovery.

Discovery

Welcome Aboard

Service Excellence

Table of contents

40 26

22

Delicious DilemmaFreshly prepared cuisineDining options to match your tastes and mood — that’s dining on board your Princess ship.

COVER PHOTO: Princess Cruises in Alaska

Discovery

50

52 Casino

54 Shows & Entertainment

3032

Welcome Aboard

Service Excellence

40 Lotus Spa® & The Sanctuary

42 Boutiques Onboard

44 Princess Photography

45 Enrichment Programs

45 Fine Art Auctions

46 Movies Under the Stars®

48 Youth & Teen Programs

Table of contents

54

34 38

38 Do It All or Nothing At AllDaytime ActivitiesYou’ll discover an incredible variety of activities, enrichment programs and other entertaining options each day on board.

34

2 0 1 3 C r u i s e s

56

58

Princess Cruises Captain’s CircleSM

Future Cruise Sales

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Signature Collection41D-CMOP-OGM

KETCHIKAN – DI Watch & Design and Blue DiamondJUNEAU – DI Watch & Design and Blue Diamond

SKAGWAY – DI Watch & Design

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12 PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY

Discover Our

Ports of Call106108126148166

60667072788296104

106

Table of contents

96

128

104

Map of AlaskaJuneau

KetchikanSkagway

Regional HighlightsNotes on other destinations to visit

in Alaska and Canada and on America's West Coast.

Discover Style Objects of Desire

Brand FinderNatural Attraction

Denali National ParkA Brief History of an Ancient Land

Call of the Wild Cold Hard Facts

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JUNEAU - Blue Diamond | KETCHIKAN - Blue Diamond

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These featured businesses have paid to be included in the book.The stores in this book have agreed to provide you with a 60-day guarantee that is detailed in full on your shopping map. This guarantee excludes loss, theft or buyer’s negligence. Many sTores in porT, including sTores ThaT do noT parTicipaTe in The prograM, offer Their own guaranTees.


©2013 onboard media. no claim to original works of Princess crUises or advertisers.

sHiPs of bermUdan registrY

all rigHts reserved. tHe entire contents of tHis PUblication are Protected bY coPYrigHt. no Part of tHis PUbli-cation maY be reProdUced, stored in a retrieval sYstem or transmitted in anY form or bY anY means, electron-ic, mecHanical, PHotocoPYing, recording or otHerwise, witHoUt tHe Prior Permission of tHe coPYrigHt owner. Printed in tHe United states of america. all articles, descriPtions and sUggestions concerning activities, toUrist attractions and otHer vacation oPPortUnities described in tHis PUblication are merelY exPressions of oPinions bY contribUting writers, do not constitUte tHe oPinions of onboard media, inc. or Princess crUises, and Under no circUmstances constitUte assUrances or gUarantees concerning tHe qUalitY or safetY of anY sUcH attraction or activitY. onboard media, inc. and Princess crUises sPecificallY disclaim anY liabilitY for damages incUrred dUe to tHe attendance or ParticiPation bY readers of tHis PUblication in anY sUcH activitY or attraction, and tHe attendance or ParticiPation in anY sUcH activitY or attraction sHall be made solelY at tHe reader’s own risk.

we and oUr content Providers (“we”) Have tried to make tHe information in tHis PUblication as accUrate as Possible, bUt it is Provided “as is” and we accePt no resPonsibilitY for anY loss, injUrY or inconvenience sUstained bY anYone resUlting from tHis information.

1691 Michigan Avenue, Suite 600, Miami Beach, Fl 33139Tel: (305) 673-0400, Fax: (305) 674-9396

www.onboardmedia.com

Sarah Beth Reno president Robin Rosenbaum-Andras senior Vice president Noelle Sipos Vice president, operations Carrie Julier Vice president, cruise revenue & sales Norma Vila Vice president, finance

editorial & design Kate McClare executive editor MaryAnna Estomba Managing editor Haley Struthers Media coordinator Maria Blanco editorial intern

contributing writers: Ginger Dingus, Nick Gallo, Linda Marx, Edward Readicker-Henderson,

Stanton H. Patty, Lynn Seldon

— Virginia C. Valls director, design & production Dayana Ramirez project graphic designer George Sariego project graphic designer Elizabeth Carlisle art director Beth Wood art director Raquel Figueroa graphic designer

production Melissa Rodriguez production Manager James Perdomo production coordinator Gail Abrams ad services director Violeta Manco-Rojas ad services Manager advertising sales Tasha Riekstins director, international sales & Brand Marketing Tyler Condon project sales Manager Jeffrey Meister sales Manager Katherine Terc sales coordinator Cristina Viera sales coordinator

Video/film production Todd Hedge producer/director Dan Shaw director, operations Kevin Maschke senior editor Juan Carlos Peña senior Videographer

port shopping revenue Kyle Ronellenfitch director, cruise revenue Wesley Emmer regional Marketing Manager Victoria Rossi regional Marketing Manager Leanne Ronellenfitch coordinator, cruise revenue port shopping operations Rachel Castro director Marina Castillo assistant Manager Rina Alvarado coordinator, operations —

Nadine Winter Manager, customer relations Arelys Zaldivar assistant Manager, customer relations

13AK Pub Page.indd 14 3/25/13 1:47 PM

Juneau, Skagway, KetchikanAvailable at: Diamonds International & Tanzanite International

With every Korite Ammolite Purchase, Receive a free Korite Ammolite Pendant.

2255.indd 1 3/25/13 10:15 AM

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Earn rewards and relax more with the Princess Cruises® Rewards Visa® card!

1. The Princess Cruises Rewards Visa Card is issued by Barclays Bank Delaware (“Barclaycard”). Offer subject to credit approval. Benefits will vary depending upon the card for which you are approved. Not everyone will qualify for the Princess Visa Signature Card and its benefits. If at the time of your application you do not meet the credit criteria previously established for this offer, or the income you report is insufficient based on your obligations, we may not be able to open an account for you or you may receive a Platinum card which has fewer benefits. Please review the materials provided with the Cardmember Agreement you will receive after account opening for more information about the benefits that will apply if you are not approved for the Visa Signature credit card. This offer is available to new cardmembers only. For information about rates, fees, other costs, and the reward program rules (including points accrual rate, bonus points awards, etc.) and benefits associated with the use of this credit card program please see the Terms and Conditions.

2. There is no annual fee. Introductory APR on balance transfers is applicable for the first 15 billing cycles after your new account is opened (the “Introductory Period”). For purchases, and for balance transfers after the Introductory Period, the variable APR is 13.99%, 16.99% or 20.99% depending upon our review of your application and your credit history at account opening. The variable APR for cash advances is 25.24%. Subject to applicable law, the APR’s on your account will be increased to a variable Penalty APR which is up to 30.24% if we do not receive timely payments, if you exceed your credit line or if we receive a payment that is not honored by your bank. The APRs on your account will vary with the market based on the Prime Rate. The minimum monthly finance charge will be $2.00. Balance Transfer Fee: 4% min. $10. Cash Advance Fee: 5% (min. $10). Foreign Transaction Fee: 3%. The fee for the purchase of cash equivalent transactions (purchase of money orders, traveler’s checks, foreign currency, lottery tickets, gambling chips or wire transfer): 5% (min. $10). This information is accurate as of 02/01/2012 and is subject to change after this date. Contact 1-866-504-8224 for updated information and for more information about the terms of this offer.

3. Bonus Points: After using your Princess Cruises Rewards Visa Signature Card to make an initial Purchase or Balance Transfer, you will be eligible to receive a one-time bonus award of five thousand (5,000) Princess Points. Bonus Points will be posted at the close of your first billing statement after an initial qualifying purchase or Balance Transfer is made. The Balance Transfer is subject to the Balance Transfer Fee set forth in the Terms and Conditions. Balance Transfer Checks and Convenience Checks do not earn bonus points. Bonus points will be awarded at the close of the billing statement in which you make your first purchase or balance transfer and will be then be credited to your Princess Rewards Visa Account. Balance Transfer Checks do not qualify for bonus points. Balance Transfer Bonus Points: Earn one point per $1 in balances that post to your new account in the first 30 days after your account is opened, up to a maximum of 5,000 points. If you make a balance transfer you will be charged interest on purchases if you do not pay off your entire balance, which includes any transferred balance, by the payment due date each month. There is a fee for Balance Transfers. See the Terms and Conditions for complete details about this offer.

4. Princess Rewards Visa cardmembers will earn two (2) points for every one dollar ($1) of net purchases of Princess purchases with the credit card account, and (1) point for every one dollar ($1) of net purchases made everywhere else the account is used. Restrictions apply.

The Princess Rewards Program offers cardmembers the opportunity to earn rewards towards discounted and reduced cruise redemptions. Taxes and fees may apply. Cardmembers will be responsible for all charges incurred in connection with their cruise (including travel to port of departure). Additional charges may include but are not limited to gratuities, onboard purchases, and other charges. Cruise redemptions start at 150,000 points. Other cruise related redemption options are available such as onboard spa experience and merchandise offers. Please visit the Captain’s Circle Host, Future Cruise Consultant or Visa Consultant for a copy of the terms and conditions of this offer and visit princessvisa.com to review full program terms and conditions.

See your Princess Captain’s Circle Host or Future Cruise Consultant and apply today!

Enjoy great benefits like these:

• Low Introductory APR on balance transfers and NO Annual Fee1

• Earn up to 10,000 BONUS points with qualifying transactions2

• Earn DOUBLE points on all Princess purchases — onboard and ashore3

• Princess Rewards includes cruise redemptions and discounts, airfare discounts, Lotus Spa® treatments & other onboard amenities 4

2013_PC_VISAAD_EX 1 3/25/13 1:45 PM

OFFICER 47MM www.ernstbenz.com

Available exclusively at Diamonds International Watch & DesignJUNEAU • KETCHIKAN • SKAGWAY

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Welcome aboard! We're glad you have joined us on this cruise to the incredible ports of Alaska. It's our job to help you make the most of your vacation, especially when it's time to shop.During this voyage, I’ll provide you with helpful advice about shopping onboard and in the ports of call. I’ll be hosting the live Shopping Spotlight Show and special events on watches and jewelry, and I’ll be available each evening at the Princess Shopping Desk. I’ll also provide you with maps, brochures, Passport to Value booklets and other guidance upon request.You’ll find even more expert guidance on your television, with video replays of the Shopping Spotlight Show and special features about our boutiques onboard.With all this advice, you’ll know exactly how to enjoy the unsurpassed experience of shopping on vacation!

At your service, Your Princess Shopping Host

Hello from your

Princess Shopping Host!

Savvy TravelerAlaska Edition 2013

Diamonds InternationalHeart Necklace Del SolTote Bag

FREETurn to page 433

Great onboard o≠ ers

ABOVE: One of the professional Shopping Hosts on the Princess fleet. BELOW: A few of the resources available for your days onboard and ashore.


13AK PC Shopping Host Letter.indd 22 3/26/13 4:42 PM

-

UNIQUE ALASKAN GEMS

DON’T GO HOME WITHOUT IT!

KETCHIKANJulie’s Fine Jewelry

Julie’s Dock St. GalleryPoker Creek Gold

ANCHORAGEThe Alaskan Mint5th Ave Jewelers

SITKA & ICY STRAITSGoldsmith Galleries

JUNEAUBlue DiamondThe Jewel Box

SKAGWAYLynch- Kennedy

IT’S REAL AND IT’S RARE

www.orocal.com 800 367 6225

STAR of ALASKA GOLD NUGGET COLLECTION

available at

GOLD QUARTZ COLLECTION

2129.indd 1 2/25/13 1:19 PM


The Great Land beckons!Excitement builds as Alaska’s shore comes into view. A hunger for adventure brought you here, and soon your passion will be fulfilled as you explore one of the world’s greatest wonderlands.

It is a land of incredible natural beauty, both on land and at sea. Vast stretches of unspoiled wilderness are home to amazing wildlife and majestic mountains. Charming towns combine modern life with a fascinating heritage of ancient culture. From the gold rush that forever changed the land to the Native traditions that remain forever true, Alaska is an experience that will change you as well.

Your journey to Alaska will also be an exciting one, as you can see from this edition of Discovery. It’s packed with information on the many shipboard amenities you’ll enjoy, from mouthwatering cuisine to exquisite boutiques and rejuvenating spa treatments. You’ll also find a calendar of the year’s cruises to other unforgettable destinations.

We think you’ll find your visit even more meaningful after reading our guide to the ports of call. It’s an in-depth look at Southeast Alaska’s history and culture, focusing on the region’s Native people and the big-dreaming pioneers adopted by this Great Land.

You’ve begun a journey that we are sure you will never forget. Bon voyage!

The staff of Discovery

Staffletter

13AK PC Staff Letter.indd 24 3/26/13 4:40 PM

BANGLE BRACELETS SET OF THREE $990 • THREE RING NECKLACE $420 • RINGS SET OF THREE $360

show your love for hertoday... tomorrow...

forever...

AvA il A bl e At Ju lie’s f in e Je w elry120 F ron t St r eet K etch iK a n, a l a SK a

sterlinG silver ivy lOve COlleCtiOn

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Finally, you’re here. Now is the time to relax and let us take care of everything else. Get out

on deck and experience the fresh sea air, explore your ship and all its amenities, or grab a bite to eat.

Every aspect of this vacation was designed for you to relax, refresh and rejuvenate.

On the following pages, you can learn a bit more about what you can expect in the coming days in

this book of discovery. We call it that for a reason — not only because of the wonderful ports you’ll

be visiting, but also because of all the distinct pleasures you will find, one by one, on your Princess®

ship. What will be your favorite venue, activity, restaurant? Only the moments ahead will tell…


Welcome aboard

journey begin

Let your

PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY 31


At your

servicePrincess Cruises — The Consummate Host®


You first noticed it on the lapel of the officer who

welcomed you aboard as you crossed

the gangway: a blue and gold pin that

read "CruisE." Then you saw it again

worn by the concierge, and your

stateroom steward, and ... What are

these pins, and what does CruisE

stand for?

CRUISE began as a program to help

keep the passenger experience

top-of-mind for all Princess staff

and crew, and that is still one of

its important goals. But CRUISE is

also how we recognize and reward

employees for great performance.

CRUISE is how we educate our

employees for career and personal

growth. CRUISE is how we support

our employees' health and welfare

so they can perform their jobs with

excellence every day. CRUISE is

the vehicle through which Princess

delivers our core values — we serve,

we respect our team, we innovate,

we are consistent, we are accountable,

and we do it right — to our staff,

and motivates them to live out those

values and be The Consummate Host.

What does CRUISE mean to you?

It means you can expect consistently

warm, welcoming service — from

courteous greetings in the dining

room at dinner to friendly smiles

by the stewards — on every ship in

our fleet. It means everyone on board

is working together to make your

vacation a relaxed, rejuvenating retreat

at sea. It means all of us know your

vacation memories are infinitely

precious — and we want you to

remember not only our spectacular

ships sailing to fantastic destinations,

but also how valued you felt while you

were on board.

The Consummate Host service

On your Princess ship, gracious and attentive crew members

are there to serve you and make your entire vacation memorable.



Your ship is a floating destination of culinary delights, with options to match every taste and mood.


One of the most enticing things about your spectacular Princess ship is the wide

variety of tempting onboard options to delight your

palate. From specialty restaurants and gracious

dining rooms, a warm, freshly cooked meal is never

far away. You can have a burger grilled-to-order out

on deck, or grab a slice of handmade pizza to eat by

the pool. Maybe all you need is some soft-serve ice

cream to fend off the heat. Or keep your eyes open

for cookies & milk on deck in the afternoon. From

breakfast to dinner to late-night snacks, Princess

raises the bar on dining at sea.

A chef in one of the galleys takes a tray of Princess breads from the oven. Each day, an assortment of baked goods are prepared for your enjoyment.

Dining freshly prepared

ilemmaDelicious



We understand how important

dining is to the vacation experience,

which is why we put such an emphasis

on the quality and range of our dining

options. Our own Master Chef, Alfredo

Marzi, designed the menus for our

Traditional and Anytime DiningsM

rooms to truly make sure the food is

the star. From our signature pastas

to our lighter selections, you’ll savor

freshly prepared cuisine, utilizing

ingredients with regional influences.

For variety, you can choose

a specialty restaurant like sabatini’s,sM

with traditional italian fare, the elegant

Crown Grill sM or sterling steakhousesM

for an aged prime steak or grilled

seafood, or the Bayou Café & steakhouse

for a more southern ambience.

Ask about the Chef’s Table, yet another

unique offering — you’ll be invited into

the galley for champagne and hors

d’oeuvres, and you'll later dine on

a special menu conceived by the

Executive Chef himself. Or if you

happen to have a balcony stateroom,

you can stay in one evening and

we’ll bring the experience to you —

with ultimate Balcony Dining.

We invite you to indulge in

all this and more during your cruise.

Dining freshly prepared

Delectable entrees served in the Princess restaurants range from Italian specialties to aged steak to the freshest fish available.



Note: Dining options, locations and venues vary by ship and actual meal times and charges are subject to change based on itinerary and season. While room service is complimentary, charges will apply to certain food and beverage items. Once on board and based on availability, you may switch to Anytime Dining from Traditional Dining with 24 hours notice to the Maître d’Hôtel. Anytime Dining is not available on Pacific, Sun, Dawn, Sea** or Ocean Princess. Corkage fee of $15 applies. The Chef’s Table program is limited to approximately 10-12 passengers per cruise and is offered at $95 per person.

* Ultimate Balcony Dining available in select staterooms.

** Anytime Dining and Chef's Table do not apply to Sea Princess while operating in Australia. ^Wine bar only.

Restaurants Style Breakfast Hours Lunch HoursTraditional

Dining Hours Anytime Dining Charges

Main Dining Rooms Traditional & Anytime 7:30 AM - 9:30 AM

Lunch is available on turnaround days, sea

days and in select ports. (see Princess Patter)

5:15 PM, 6 PM and 8:15 PM 5:30 PM - 10 PM None

Specialty Dining Style Breakfast Hours Lunch Hours Dinner Hours ChargesSabatini’sSM

Caribbean, Coral, Crown, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Pacific, Ruby, Sapphire, Star, Ocean Princess

Specialty 7:30 AM - 10 AM for Suites only N/A 6:30 PM - 11 PM Cover charge

Crown GrillCaribbean, Crown, Emerald, Golden, Ruby, Star, Grand Princess

Specialty N/A N/A 6:30 PM - 11 PM Cover charge

Sterling SteakhouseSM

Dawn, Diamond, Pacific, Sea, Sun, Ocean, Sapphire Princess


Bayou Café & SteakhouseCoral, Island Princess


Ultimate Balcony DiningAll Princess ships*

Specialty 7 AM - 11 AM N/A 5:30 PM - 10 PM Nominal charge

Chef’s TableCaribbean, Coral, Crown, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Pacific, Ruby, Sapphire, Sea,** Star, Ocean Princess

Specialty N/A N/A Onboard reservations accepted only

$95 per person(subject to change)

Casual Dining Style Breakfast Hours Lunch Hours Dinner Hours Charges

Pizzeria (poolside)Caribbean, Coral, Crown, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Ruby, Sapphire, Star Princess

Casual N/A 11 AM - 5:30 PM 5:30 PM - Midnight None

Pizzeria/trattoriaDawn, Pacific, Sea, Sun, Ocean Princess

Casual N/A 11 AM - 2:30 PM 7 PM onward None

Burger & hot dog grillAll Princess ships

Casual N/A 11 AM - 6 PM 6:00 PM - onward(Except on Ocean and Pacific Princess) None

Café CaribeCaribbean, Crown, Emerald, Ruby Princess

Casual 6 AM - 10 AM 11:30 AM - 3:30 PM(sea days only) 5:30 PM - Midnight None

Horizon Court/LidoCaribbean, Coral, Crown, Dawn, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Ruby, Sapphire, Sea, Star, Sun Princess

Casual 6 AM - 11:00 AM 11:00 AM - 5:30 PM5:30 PM - Midnight

(closed for dinner on Caribbean, Crown, Emerald & Ruby Princess)

None

Panorama BuffetPacific, Ocean Princess

Casual 6 AM - 11 AM 11 AM - 6 PM 6 PM onward None

Room serviceAll Princess ships

N/A 24 hours 24 hours 24 hours None

Afternoon teaAll Princess ships

Casual N/A 3:30 PM - 4:30 PM N/A None

PâtisserieCoral, Dawn, Diamond, Island, Pacific, Sea, Sun, Ocean Princess

Casual 7 AM onward N/A N/A Nominal charge

Ice cream barCaribbean, Coral, Crown, Dawn, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Ruby, Sapphire, Sea, Star, Sun Princess

Casual N/A 11 AM - 5:30 PM 5:30 PM onward None

International CaféCaribbean, Crown, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Ruby, Sapphire, Coral, Star Princess

Casual 24 hours 24 hours 24 hours Nominal charge

Vines Wine BarCaribbean, Crown, Emerald, Golden, Grand^ Ruby, Sapphire,̂ Star Princess

Casual N/A 11:00 AM onward (4:30 PM port days) 5 PM - 11 PM Nominal charge

Alfredo's PizzeriaGrand Princess, Sapphire Princess

Casual N/A 11 AM - 5:30 PM 5:30 PM onward None

Attire Length of Cruise # of Formal Evenings # of Smart Casual Events

3-6 days 1 1-5

7-13 days 2 5-11

14-20 days 3 11-17

21-28 days 4 17-24

29+ days 5 24+

Smart Casual Evenings: Skirts/dresses, slacks and sweaters for ladies. Pants and open-neck shirts for men.

Formal Evenings: Evening gowns, cocktail dresses, or elegant pant suits for women. Tuxedo, dark suit or dinner jacket and slacks for men.

Note: Dress code is subject to change with the ship’s itinerary. The above is a general guide.

Restaurants & dining venues on board

13AK_PC_Corrected 3 pages.indd 1 3/25/13 1:40 PM

38


Free time — something each of us has

precious little of these days. Of course, that’s why

you take a vacation. And on your Princess ship, you’ll

find you have plenty of time to enjoy the fabulous

options offered on board.

What’s your type? Are you a fitness

fanatic? Do you like arts & crafts? Do you wish you

simply had more hours in the day after work and

family commitments to just sit down and read a book?

On a Princess voyage, we offer opportunities for every

interest to be engaged, which is one of the reasons

people often unexpectedly find that it is their time

on the ship they remember most fondly. so now that

you’re here, we encourage you to follow your mood

to whatever activities and entertainment most interest

you. You’ll find a full schedule of what’s offered each

day in your Princess Patter. And the ship’s pools,

library, fitness centers and other venues are open

and available whenever you feel like dropping in.

*Available on select voyages.

Unlimited opportunities to expand your horizons through culinary courses, wine tasting,

classes in art history, navigation, art & crafts and more.

Each day, opportunities

unfold, from more active

options to the relaxed

and cultural.

Activities daytime

Do it all or nothing at all



renew yourself

Body & Soul



sitting out on deck, you’ll be lulled into a

blissful state by the sound of waves, the fresh sea air,

and the knowledge that while you are out here with

Princess, you don’t have a single care in the world.

And if you think that’s a good feeling, just imagine how

you’ll feel after a massage or spa treatment!

Pampering never felt as good as it does on

a Princess ship. The onboard Lotus spa® rivals most

you’ll find on land — offering a sensational selection

of services and treatments, from facials, scrubs and

massages to hot stone therapy, body therapy and

body wraps, as well as a full-service salon should

you choose to beautify after you unwind.

The Lotus spa Fitness Center offers fitness programs

designed to help you maximize your wellness with

indoor Cycling, Personal Training and classes such

as Pilates, Yoga, Body sculpt Boot Camp and TrX

suspension Training. The Lotus spa Fitness Center

also features world-class exercise equipment so

you can tone on your own.

The sanctuary – truly special. rejuvenate in the open air at the outdoor oasis

reserved exclusively for adults, The sanctuary,

available on select ships.*

in this popular haven you can get a massage under

a cabana, to the sound of the sea lapping far beneath

you. Or you can find yourself an empty chaise lounge

in which to enjoy healthy smoothies, energy drinks,

and flavored waters. A spa menu exclusive to

The sanctuary highlights a variety of light snacks,

such as lettuce-wrapped spring rolls, fruit skewers,

and spicy tuna pâté with baked pita wedges,

all served by special serenity stewards. MP3 players

are also available with themed playlists, so you can

escape completely to the soothing sounds of music.

rejuvenate with luxurious treatments

in the Lotus spa® or on deck in

The sanctuary.

The Sanctuary is a relaxing oasis on deck that’s perfect for an al fresco massage or a fruit smoothie and some relaxing music.

Health & Wellness rejuvenate

* The sanctuary is available on most ships. Covered cabanas not available in The sanctuary on all ships.

41


Bring home the

Perfect GiftYou’ll return home from your Princess® vacation with experiences to last

a lifetime. But why not remind yourself of the carefree time you had onboard

as often as possible, with something special from our array of on board boutiques?

Browse through the fine jewelry, fashion apparel and accessories on board — you’ll

discover a stellar selection of names like swarovski, Lancôme, Estée Lauder and

TAG Heuer among the luxurious offerings, as well as a wide variety of signature

Princess merchandise. All shops are tax- and duty-free, with savings up to 60% off

u.s. retail. Plus, watch for additional savings with special promotions throughout your

voyage. And in each of our boutiques, you’ll be greeted by gracious, knowledgeable

staff who can help you choose the perfect gift to take home.

fossil • c it izen • tag heuer • t issot • Michael Kors • longines • Phil iP ste in • rayban • oaKley • coluMbia geMs • tara Pearls • D iaMonDs of russia • crislu • swarovsKi M

bailey ’s • crown royal • jose cuervo • boMbay • saPPhire • beefeater • cruzan ruM • stoli • glenfiDDich • jacK Daniels • Kahlua • saMbuca • roMano sheriDan • tanqueray c o u r vo i s i e r v s o

estée lauDer • Dolce & gabbana • Marc jacobs • Montblanc • lancôMe • herMes • thierry Mugler • lacoste • cl in ique • l 'occitane • strivectin • chanel • ralPh lauren calvin

DKny • versace • g ivenchy • n ina r icc i • chr ist ian D ior • gucci • hugo boss • Kenzo • guerla in • el iz abeth arDen • carol ina herrera • PraDa • escaDa • aurora AMMOL iTE jean

"Best Onboard Shopping"

Porthole M

agazine

2008, 2009, 2

010, 2011,

2012 – Readers' Choice Awards


fossil • c it izen • tag heuer • t issot • Michael Kors • longines • Phil iP ste in • rayban • oaKley • coluMbia geMs • tara Pearls • D iaMonDs of russia • crislu • swarovsKi Majorica • inch of golD • absolut • tortuga ruM goDiva • bacarDi • johnnie walKer • grey goose • sMirnoff

bailey ’s • crown royal • jose cuervo • boMbay • saPPhire • beefeater • cruzan ruM • stoli • glenfiDDich • jacK Daniels • Kahlua • saMbuca • roMano sheriDan • tanqueray c o u r vo i s i e r v s o P • r e M y M a rt i n xo • c h i vas r eg a l • M a r l b o r o • b e n s o n & h eD g es • v i r g i n i a s l i M s

estée lauDer • Dolce & gabbana • Marc jacobs • Montblanc • lancôMe • herMes • thierry Mugler • lacoste • cl in ique • l 'occitane • strivectin • chanel • ralPh lauren calvin Klein • g iorgio arMani • issey MiyaKe • effy • Dav iDoff cartier • Marahlago • burberry • soPhia f iori

DKny • versace • g ivenchy • n ina r icc i • chr ist ian D ior • gucci • hugo boss • Kenzo • guerla in • el iz abeth arDen • carol ina herrera • PraDa • escaDa • aurora AMMOL iTE jean Patou • ysl • josePh r ibKoff • oscar De la renta • asher • toMMy bahaMa • guess • jennifer loPez


Enrichment experiences

the Princess Photo & video team captures

Your Memories at Sea

Your life. Our art. Your legacy.Created by internationally recognized photographer Joe Craig,

the Platinum studio experience puts the focus on your inner

spirit. using creative lighting techniques, our specially trained

Platinum Artist creates a unique style of art with sessions taking

place in a private studio, with no session fee and no obligation

to purchase.

Book your appointment today!

PlatinumStudioby Joe Craig

A picture is worth a thousand words — especially of your cruise with Princess. And we offer many ways for you to relive your vacation with both photos and video including:

• Formal & casual portraits with multiple backgrounds

• Candid photos from gangways and ports to onboard events

• Wall portraits turning your memories into works of art

• souvenir and decorative frames, albums & scrapbooks

• reflections DvD featuring video highlights from your cruise

• Digital cameras, binoculars & accessories

• Prints from your digital camera


Set sail with Princess, and you’re in for an adventure

that’s more than just sightseeing.

You will discover an array of engaging

onboard offerings to expand your

cultural horizons.

Among the wonderful offerings of our

enrichment programs are an array of

classes, from singing to culinary skills

and art history. You can brush up on

your cooking knowledge, expand your

navigational awareness, or join the

Zumba® Fitness dance party. Get creative

and have fun learning new craft activities

and much more. Enrichment programs

also present intriguing lectures on select

cruises, including those focusing on the

history, culture and geography of the

region you are visiting.

Art auctions at sea* are

fun, fast-paced and offer a wonderful

opportunity to bring home a great

work of art at savings of up to 50% from

estimated retail price. You’ll find some of

the art world’s greatest stars — names

like Picasso, Chagall, Rockwell and Miro

— all represented, as well as a variety

of works by contemporary art’s popular

figures. There’s no registration necessary,

and complimentary champagne and a

festive atmosphere make these auctions

an exciting highlight of your voyage.

Artwork is charged to your shipboard

account, then insured, packaged and

shipped to your home or office from

a U.S. fulfillment center.

* Not available on Ocean Princess or Pacific Princess.

Engaging enrichment opportunities and

exciting art auctions bring refinement to

your cruise.

An adventure in the

Cultural

Enrichment Programs



Movies under the stars

Princess® pioneered the concept — passengers enjoying a feature film

poolside on a giant screen: Movies under the stars.®


Order a drink, grab a bag

of complimentary popcorn, get yourself

a lounge chair by the pool — or even

better, a coveted spot in the hot tub

— for the greatest show on the sea.

Movies under the stars® is a real

crowd-pleaser, with up to five movies

shown poolside during the day, and

two feature films at night. What a great

way to take advantage of warm nights

in the region! A high-tech 300-square-

foot LED screen and 69,000-watt stereo

system assure clarity and quality of

sound from wherever on the deck

you might be sitting.

To keep the entertainment fresh, there are other showings besides

movies. Major sporting events such

as the super Bowl,® NBA Finals, World

series, NCAA Basketball® tournament

and NCAA Bowl Championship series™

are shown on the big screen, weather

permitting.* And you’ll often find yourself

grooving to a concert video of one of

the world’s popular performers.

Even kids get in on the fun.

some of the most popular offerings on

the Movies under the stars big screen

are our special Playstation® or

Nintendo® WiiTM tournaments. And

teens will enjoy late-night screenings

just for them, while younger cruisers

can take in a colorful matinee with

newfound friends!

Viewed from high above, the Movies Under the Stars screen entertains passengers poolside.

The sky’s the limit

*satellite coverage permitting.

Note: Movies under the stars is featured on most Princess ships.



Moms and dads, be forewarned — aside from mealtimes,

you may not see your kids much on

this cruise. That’s because Princess®

has one of the best programs for

children and teens from 3–17 of any

cruise line. On days at sea and in port,

the fun begins in the morning and

continues throughout the day and into

the evening in our supervised Youth

Centers & Teen Lounges.

Our youngest guests ages 3–7 will love our

Princess Pelicans

program. They can

participate in a variety

of programs, including

art projects, sports and games,

educational activities, and even pizza

and ice cream parties. Plus, kids can

take part in fun events such as talent

shows, dance parties, pajama parties

and special get-together dinners.

They’ll even paint their own T-shirts

and create other custom souvenirs of

their cruise.

’Tweens will revel in shockwaves — a

special venue with

activities just for them.

They can enjoy parties, join sports

tournaments and scavenger hunts,

watch movies, learn to cook

with our Jr.CHEF@sea program,

or participate in talent shows, enjoy

educational programs sponsored

by the renowned California science

Center, and other fun options.

Whatever their age, kids on a cruise

with Princess will find fun-filled

activities suited just for them.

Youth and teen

Kid-sized fun that ’s simply

“SeaSational”


What’s a teen to do on a Princess ship? Plenty — because

our remix teen program is the hottest thing on the ocean. Come make

new friends and hang in your own dedicated Teen Lounge with music,

games, dance parties, yoga and Playstation.® There are hip hop classes,

karaoke, mocktail parties, late night poolside movies, talent shows,

and “teen makeovers.”

if you haven’t checked it out, come to remix.

it’s the place to be at sea!

Parties • Food • dJ • dance Parties

PLaYstation® • nintendo® WIITM

sPorts coMPetitions • and More

reMix



Whether for a few hours in the lounge or an evening

of dancing, don’t miss this chance to cut loose and be

enchanted by the night.


When was the last time you could

go out without a single worry — and have so much

to choose from? It’s a rare luxury to be able to walk

out of your stateroom any evening, and within a

short stroll be able to take in a musical, roll the dice

in a lively casino, settle into a piano bar for some

cocktails and live music, or dance the night away

in a state-of-the-art nightclub.

From comedy and magic acts to movies by the

pool to champagne in an intimate lounge, there’s

always more to do than you could fit in an evening.

Fortunately, you’ve got many nights ahead to enjoy

all the evenings Princess holds in store for you.

Before retiring, you may want to drop

by the Atrium for the fabulous Champagne Waterfall,

or get out on deck for a stroll beneath the stars in

the balmy tropical air.

Step out for an evening of

adventure and excitement

on a ship of dreams

Activities nighttime

belongs to you

Nightthe



Are you feeling lucky? An evening of gaming and good fortune

is beckoning you to the casino, where

you can try your luck at any of your

favorite games of chance.

Our fabulous contemporary casinos

blend a bit of the excitement of Vegas

with an elegant ambience to create a

gaming experience unique to Princess.

In these lively rooms, you can join other

passengers for blackjack, roulette, and

of course an array of slot machines.

There may even be a poker tournament

getting under way with a seat just for you.

Whether you’re an avid gamer or just an

occasional enthusiast, you’ll love the

Princess casinos. Those on our grand

ships are some of the largest at sea!

Casino gaming

The onboard casinos offer a chance to play, watch the wheel spin, press the slot buttons and bring home the winnings.

Princess is your

LadyLuck




Stunning sets, elaborate costumes and memorable music make our original Princess productions a highlight of your voyage.



Music, dance & all that

Shows entertainment

Ladies and gentlemen, please take your

seats. The lights are dimming, the curtain’s opening,

and the show is about to begin.

Our original musicals are unforgettable —

combining lavish stage sets and compelling scores

with the song and dance of a troupe of professional

singers and dancers. On every cruise with Princess,

you’ll have the opportunity to attend several different

musical productions, each custom created just for

our passengers. Check your Princess Patter each

day to find out about that evening’s offering. And we’ll

see you at the show!

Jazz


Princess Captain’s Circle®

Welcome to

The CircleWhether it’s your first cruise with Princess, or you’ve sailed

with us many times before, you’re sure to enjoy the benefits

and rewards of the best loyalty program at sea.


By voyage’s end, it’s likely

you will have made a new circle of

friends at dinner, or perhaps in the

fitness center, boutiques, bars and

lounges of your Princess ship. Like

you, they’re all members of a very

special group — those who’ve sailed

with Princess, and those we hope

will sail again.

Welcome to the best loyalty

program at sea. The Princess Cruises

Captain’s Circle® was created to thank

those passengers who cruise with us

frequently — and to offer an incentive

to our new passengers who may

be joining us for the very first time.

A range of rewards awaits you, from

exclusive onboard parties and events

to access to a Circle Host on board

every cruise who can answer any

questions you might have about

benefits. At higher levels, you’ll

receive other perks like Preferred

Check-in, complimentary wine tasting,

complimentary internet credit, priority

disembarkation and more!

To the right you’ll find

a chart listing the benefits of various

levels of membership. To learn more

about the program, we encourage

you to visit with the Circle Host

on board, who can answer any

questions you may have.

You’ll receive a special Member

Number as a Circle Member. Be sure

to have it handy whenever booking,

so you can be certain to take

advantage of all your benefits.

But wait, there’s more... Complete 20 cruises and you’ll earn

Loyalty Commends onboard credits

from $25 to $100. Other benefits

include a private luncheon for the

top 20 Most Traveled Passengers

or a commemorative gift and bottle

of champagne for the top 3 Most

Traveled Passengers on each cruise.

Gold MembersAfter your 1st completed cruise

• special launch savings• reduced Deposit

• Preferential pricing offers• circle centersM Online - standBy Program - referral rewards - Circle savings AccountsM

• Princess cruises captain’s circle Magazine • Princess cruises captain's circle enewsletter • free cruise Photo contest • access to a circle host on board • Members-only on board events • Princess Passport • gold Member Pin

Medallion MembersFrom your 4th-5th cruise, or 31-50 cruise days

• exclusive shoreside access to the Captain's Circle Help Desk phone line

• upgrade to Princess Platinum vacation Protection- Double benefits for Accident & sickness

Medical Expense and Baggage/Personal effects coverage

- increases special Cancellation Credit Feature to 100%

• 10% discount off the purchase of our reflections DvD on board

• Medallion Member Pin

Platinum MembersFrom your 6th-15th cruise, or 51-150 cruise days

• credit toward internet café packages

Voyage Minutes

7 days or less 150

8-20 days 250

21+ days 500

• Preferred check-in at embarkation• Platinum Disembarkation lounge • complimentary cruise atlas • Platinum Member Pin

Elite MembersFrom your 16th cruise on, or 151+ cruise days

• complimentary shoe polishing, laundry and professional cleaning services

• Priority ship-to-shore tender embarkation • Priority disembarkation • 10% boutique discount • complimentary grapevine wine tasting • complimentary mini-bar setup • Deluxe canapés on formal nights

(upon request)• upgraded stateroom amenities • traditional afternoon tea

in stateroom (upon request)• elite Member Pin

NOTE: Captain's Circle Benefits are subject to the terms and conditions of the Captain's Circle Program. Please visit princess.com/loyalty or your Captain's Circle Host on board, to review the full terms of the program and to obtain further details on Member benefits.



Book a cruise or place a deposit while you’re

on board and receive a special offer —

up to $300 shipboard credit per stateroom.

With just a reduced $100 refundable deposit

per person, you’ll get a shipboard credit

good on your next cruise with Princess.

if you’re unsure of your future travel plans,

simply make a deposit and take up to

2 years to decide. This exclusive offer is

available only to our onboard passengers.

see your Future Cruise Consultant for details.

Book your next cruise

on boardLet a Future Cruise sales Consultant help you plan a future getaway,

and you’ll get a reduced deposit and up to $300 in shipboard credits,

even if you don’t yet know where you want to sail.

Plan a future journey

CruiseLength

StateroomType

ShipboardCredit*

(U.S./CAN)

3-6 daysinterior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/suites

$15 $25


$25 $50


$75 $100

17+ daysinterior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/suites

$125 $150

Check the Princess Patter daily for office hours and location.

* Deposit is per person, for 1st and 2nd passenger only. Note: Future Cruise Deposits are also available to international passengers. see Future Cruise Consultant for details.


Arriving June 2013


mark henryWitness the instant and dramatic color change from mossy green to raspberry. In this pendant, the rare and beautiful alexandrite stone is en-hanced by gold and diamonds.

vena d’amoreGive her a sparkling diamond surrounded by more of the same brilliance.

flaWlessa stunning swarovski blue paraiba topaz is the centerpiece for these exquisite earrings, while white swarovski topaz dances around for added sparkle. set in 18k gold over sterling silver.

GIfT ColleCTIonBeautiful diamond jewelry comprised of several perfectly matched, white diamonds set together side by side giving the wearer a huge diamond look, for tremendous value.

day 2 nIGhTsophisticated studs by day, dangling attention-getters by night. Take these convertible earrings wherever you go!

DiscoverStyle

60 PrInCess CrUIses dIsCovery

our favoriteThings for her

our favoriteThings for him

13AK DS and SFA Pickups V2.indd 58 3/25/13 1:48 PM

BUlova aCCUTronfrom the Gemini Collection, this swiss-made automatic watch is in stainless steel with rose-gold finish, exhibition caseback and a black leather strap.

WenGernot all swiss watches are created equal. The GsT Chrono features a 12-hour chronograph, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and unidirectional rotating bezel and is water-resistant to 100m/300ft.

korITe ammolITeThis extraordinary sterling silver pendant is a modern design, set with top grade ammolite, making it a true collector’s item.

hearTs on fIremade of titanium and with a single diamond, this ring features durable, strong design that speaks to a mas-culine appreciation for raw materials.

DiscoverStyle

PrInCess CrUIses dIsCovery 61

our favoriteThings for her

our favoriteThings for him


We all own at least one wardrobe basic we'll never give up. Blue jeans, a white button-down, black pumps and the little black dress defy trends season after sea-son. These are the items that offer value and style year after year.

It’s easy to build a diamond jewelry ward-robe that offers the same value and wear-ability. start with these five jewelry essen-tials, which you’ll wear every day and into the night.

1 solitaire earrings

2 necklace

3 diamond Bracelet

4 diamond ring

5 Watch

Expert Advicemen, read this carefully! your birthday and anniversary gift-giving problems are solved.

Diamond

you can't live without!

illu

str

atio

n b

y D

aya

na

ra

mir

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DiscoverStyle

5PiecesThe Top



4. diamond ringWhether she’s wearing a wedding ring, engagement ring or right-hand ring, every woman deserves a diamond on her finger! Choose something with a lot of sparkle to celebrate your energy and love of life. or look for a splash of color to reflect your sense of fun and adventure. Whatever you choose, the ring should be all about you. Pictured: “Figure 8” ring by Forevermark

5. Watchyour watch is the piece of jewelry you wear every day, so it makes sense to invest in a high-quality timepiece. Watches also define status and personal style. The watch you wear on your wrist says as much about you as the car you drive or the home you live in. Pictured: Crazy Carats by Fendi

1. solitaire earringsdiamond studs are the item every woman must own. They are also the best value because you will never take them off. solitaire studs will remain prized possessions in your family for generations to come. This can be a gift for yourself or the perfect present (hint, hint!) from your significant other. Pictured: WonderStud earrings

3. diamond Braceletlook back at style icons from any era and a diamond bracelet is always a staple of their jewelry wardrobe. Choose from classic tennis bracelets or fabulous bangles. Today’s fashion icons, such as Jennifer lopez and sarah Jessica Parker, stack multiple diamond pieces or wear a diamond bracelet with their watch to add a touch of sparkle. Pictured: Crown Brilliant bracelet by Crown Of Light

DiscoverStyleStyle

PrInCess CrUIses dIsCovery 63

2. necklace a diamond solitaire necklace is the finishing touch to any outfit. It’s your easy and elegant solution every day. see your Princess shopping host onboard to learn how necklaces can add style to your wardrobe. Pictured: Fulfillment pendant by Hearts On Fire


From top:Gift Collection bangle; Vena d’Amore rings; Day 2 Night earrings; WonderStud earrings.

show her how much you care with a beautiful diamond.

fall In loveDiscover

Style



The Original & Guaranteed

The magic starts with the The magic starts with theRegal Omega

Available Exclusively at Regal JewelersKetchikan • Juneau • Skagway


2191.indd 1 2/19/13 1:40 PM

Precision timepieces and shimmering jewelry are the finishing touches for that perfect look sought by those in the know. Here, from the top names in design, are the looks you’ll love.

Crown of LightCrown of Creation pendant

ForevermarkFIve-stone anniversary band

Alex and AniStackable bangle set

>>

Raymond WeilMaestro watch

>>

>>

>>

KabanaElements Collection pendant

>>

CharriolWhite gold nautical cable bangle

>>

Bomberg1968 Collection watch

>>

objectsdesireof


13AK Objects of Desire .indd 64 3/25/13 1:52 PM

r e i n ac o l l e c t i o n

J U N E A UB l u e D i a m o n D , G l i t t e r s

K E T C H I K A NB l u e D i a m o n D

S K A G W AYr o y a l J e w e l e r s

J U N E A UJ U N E A UJ U N E A UJ U N E A UB l u e D i a m o nB l u e D i a m o nB l u e D i a m o nB l u e D i a m o nB l u e D i a m o nB l u e D i a m o nB l u e D i a m o n D , G l i t t e r s

K E T C H I K A NK E T C H I K A NK E T C H I K A NK E T C H I K A NB l u e D i a m o nB l u e D i a m o nB l u e D i a m o n D

S K A G W AYS K A G W AYS K A G W AYS K A G W AYS K A G W AYr o y a l J e w e l e r so y a l J e w e l e r so y a l J e w e l e r so y a l J e w e l e r s

r e i n ar e i n ac o l l e c t i o n

2249.indd 1 3/11/13 3:33 PM

KoriteSolara pendant

>>

OrocalGold quartz ladies ring

>>

Gift CollectionTiara diamond ring

>> Philip SteinPrestige Collectionwatch

>>Safi Kilima

Tanzanite drop earrings

>>

WeWood Date Collection

beige watch

>>

Lauren G. AdamsGold plated enamel hoop earrings

>>

objectsdesireof


13AK Objects of Desire .indd 66 3/25/13 1:52 PM

Exclusively at:

Royal Jewelers - Juneau and Skagway

2238.indd 1 3/13/13 4:36 PM

KETCHIKANBlue DiamonDCharriolMarahLagoPhilip SteinRaymond WeilWeWood

DiamonDs internationalCrown of LightDay 2 NightForevermarkGift CollectionKabanaKorite

Di Watch & DesignBombergCartierCrown of LightDay 2 NightErnst BenzForevermarkGift CollectionHublotKabanaKoritePhilip SteinPiagetSafi KilimaZenith

Julie’s Fine JeWelryCharles KrypellKoriteOrocal Gold QuartzOrocal Star Of Alaska

regal JeWelersMakur DesignsMark HenryRegal Omega

tanzanite internationalCrown of LightDay 2 NightForevermarkGift CollectionKabanaKoriteSafi Kilima

SKAGWAYDiamonDs internationalCrown of LightDay 2 NightForevermarkGift CollectionKabanaKoriteMarahLago


regal JeWelersMakur DesignsMark HenryOrocal Gold QuartzOrocal Star of AlaskaRegal Omega

royal JeWelersCharriolLauren G AdamsMarahLagoOrocal Star of AlaskaWeWood


brand finder

Mark Henry alexandrite ring

where to find our brands

JUNEAUBlue DiamonDMarahLagoOrocal Gold QuartzOrocal Star of AlaskaPhilip SteinRaymond Weil WeWood

DiamonDs internationalCrown of LightDay 2 NightForevermarkGift CollectionKabanaKorite


regal JeWelersMakur DesignsMark HenryOrocal Star of AlaskaRegal Omega

royal JeWelersCharriolLauren G AdamsMarahLagoOrocal Star of AlaskaWeWood


Alex and Ani • alexandani.com | Bomberg • bomberg.ch | Cartier • cartier.com | Charles Krypell • charleskrypell.com Charriol • charriol.com | Crown of Light • crownoflight.com | Day 2 Night • diamondsinternational.com | Gift Collection • diamondsinternational.com | Ernst Benz • ernstbenz.com | Forevermark • forevermark.com | Hublot • hublot.com | Kabana • kabana.net Korite • Korite.com | Lauren G. Adams • laurengadams.com | Makur • makurdesigns.com | Marahlago • marahlago.com | Mark Henry • markhenryj.com | Raymond Weil • raymond-weil.com | Orocal Gold Quartz • orocal.com | Orocal Star of Alaska • Orocal.com | Philip Stein • philipstein.com | Piaget • piaget.com | Safi Kilima • safikilima.com | Wenger • wengerna.com | WeWood • we-wood.us | Zenith • zenith.com


13AK Brand Finder NEW.indd 68 3/26/13 12:34 PM

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Vast and varied, Alaska’s national parks promise

adventure at every turn.

By Lynn Seldon

Imagine spotting the peak of Mount McKinley on a crystal-clear day or being

within mere feet of a grizzly bear (from the safety of a tour bus). It could easily

be you, on a visit to one of Alaska’s spectacular national parks. Majestic

mountain peaks, glistening glacial expanses, magnificent wildlife roaming

free — the seemingly endless natural wonders of this great state come alive.

“The parks represent the sweep of American history and natural abundance,

and are as varied as they are vast,” says John Quinley, spokesman for the

Alaska Region of the National Park Service, which oversees 15 national parks

covering 51 million acres, or 13 percent of the state’s total 375 million acres.

They offer plenty of action, from ranger-led hikes and educational programs

to camping, backpacking and boating adventures.

Like spotting the “big five” of Alaska wildlife (caribou, Dall sheep, moose, grizzly

bear and wolves), experiencing one of Alaska’s glorious national parks is a

highlight of any visit. Here are five of the best:


Natural

Attraction

13AK PC NaturalAtraction.indd 72 3/25/13 5:48 PM

by Jonathan Siskin


NaturalAttraction


WoNder oN the WaterPerhaps no other location in Alaska is better known than

Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve, a water-focused marvel.

Glacier Bay is the result of a rapidly receding glacier. A 1794

survey crew described the bay as a 5-mile indent. By the

time the great naturalist John Muir measured it in 1879, the

bay had grown to 30 miles — and it’s about 65 miles today.

Glacier Bay was declared a national monument in 1925 and

was designated a national park in 1980.

About one-fifth of the park is actually water, and most visits

involve the water and marine life (whether from a large cruise

ship, a small boat or a kayak). The park features pristine coastal

beaches, snow-capped mountain ranges and numerous

glaciers, including Margerie Glacier, a towering example that

extends 21 miles and stands 250 feet above the waterline.

Wildlife includes endangered humpback whales, threatened

Steller sea lions, harbor seals and sea otters.

Nature’s bouNtyAn Alaska cornucopia can be explored at Kenai Fjords National

Park, which is comprised of three remarkably varied sections:

the coastal fjords, where tidewater glaciers meet the sea;

the immense Harding Icefield; and an emerging rainforest.

The easiest section to visit is Exit Glacier, with a half-mile-

wide river of ice and Kenai Fjords Nature Center. The huge

Harding Icefield measures more than 700 square miles and

is the largest of four remaining U.S. icefields completely

within U.S. borders.

College Fjord

FROM TOP: Glacier Bay National Park; Misty Fjords; Timber wolves.

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Peak exPerienceIn a state of national-park superlatives, Denali National Park

& Preserve tops them all. Denali is literally the high point of a

visit, thanks to towering peaks including the challenging Mount

McKinley, North America’s highest summit at 20,320 feet.

Activities in this expansive park are almost as endless as

the views. Bus tours, bike rides or long walks down the 90-mile

Denali Park Road are quite popular. Other options include hiking,

camping, rafting, fishing and flightseeing. World-class wildlife

watching is part of a visit to this subarctic ecosystem that is home

to grizzly bear, wolves, Dall sheep and moose.

Size matterSWhen it comes to sheer size, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park &

Preserve reigns. At more than 13 million acres — larger than Rhode

Island and Vermont combined — it’s the largest national park.

It’s not visited nearly as frequently as many others, probably

because of its rugged nature. The trails are unmarked, its

travel services and facilities are limited, and visitor access

into the sprawling park is via two gravel roads: the 42-mile Nabesna

Road traversing the northern portion, and the 60-mile McCarthy

Road running directly into the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias. Best

bets include a drive along one of the two roads, a visit to the old

mining town of Kennecott, flightseeing, hiking, biking and lots of

wildlife-viewing.

Great GetawayAs one of the most remote national parks in the nation, Gates of

the Arctic National Park & Preserve is accessible mainly by air taxi

from Fairbanks. Hardy hikers often walk in from Dalton Highway,

which is about five miles from the park. The park has no roads or

facilities within it, but park officials say Gates of the Arctic is home

to about 1,500 Native Alaskans who maintain a subsistence-level

way of life while continuing long-held cultural traditions.

Visitors to Gates of the Arctic are rewarded with pristine

wilderness. Like the other national parks, it gives an awe-inspiring

sense of the spirit of the Great Land.

Favorite parks5

1. Glacier Bay national Park & Preserve• southeast alaska,

near gustavus • 3.3 million acres

2. Denali national Park & Preserve• interior alaska, near healy and

cantwell (240 miles north of anchorage and 125 miles south of Fairbanks)

• more than 6 million acres

3. kenai Fjords national Park• south-central alaska, near seward• 669,983 acres

4. wrangell-St. elias national Park & Preserve• eastern portion of interior alaska,

along the canadian border • more than 13 million acres

5. Gates of the arctic national Park & Preserve• in the brooks range, the

northernmost mountain range in the country

• 8.5 million acres

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Denali. North America's highest point was The High One, or The Great One, to the Athabascan Native tribes who were Alaska's first inhabitants. It’s definitely a part of the Alaskan experience that shouldn’t be missed. But Denali is much more than the name given to the crown of the 600-mile Alaska Range. It’s also the name of the huge national park and preserve that is the quintessential Alaskan interior experience.


Denali National Park

An Alaskan High

13AK PC DenaliPark.indd 78 3/25/13 1:56 PM


This immense preserved and protected area started

with about two million acres in 1917 as Mount McKinley

National Park, named for then-U.S. Representative

(and later President) William McKinley. In 1980, park

boundaries were enlarged by four million acres and

the name was changed to Denali National Park and

Preserve; the highest peak is still known officially as

Mount McKinley. At its current six million acres, the park

is actually larger than the entire state of Massachusetts.

The park and its surroundings came into being largely

due to the work of two men: Charles Sheldon, a

conservationist, naturalist and hunter; and guide Harry

Karstens, with whom, between 1906 and 1908, Sheldon

explored the region that would eventually become the

park. Sheldon got the park established after working

diligently for a decade, while Karstens went on to make

the first ascent of McKinley and become the park’s

first superintendent.

As it did then, the Denali experience involves more

than getting a glimpse of Mount McKinley. In fact, many

visitors never even see Mount McKinley: It’s “out” from

the clouds only one in three days, on average. But with

so much else to see and do, a Mount McKinley sighting

is just one of the many jewels in the Denali crown.

DenaliNational Park


The lanDscapeIt all starts with the incredibly beautiful and diverse scenery.

Sitting below the peaks of the McKinley massif is a land

of rivers and landscape unmatched in North America.

Situated about 240 miles north of Anchorage and less than

half that distance south of Fairbanks, Denali National Park

spreads to the west of bustling George Parks Highway

and into a wilderness rarely matched in the world.

Mount McKinley is an ever-present part of the landscape.

Its height of 20,320 feet makes it one of the Seven Summits,

the highest peaks on the world’s continents. The formation

of this majestic mountain and the rest of the Alaska Range

began tens of millions of years ago, thanks to a massive

collision of two tectonic plates. Today, more than 75 percent

of Mount McKinley is covered in snowfall and glaciers year-

round, and conditions are virtually always harsh.

Below McKinley and the other towering mountains, the

plant life of the park has adapted over thousands of years

to the quite-cold winters and short summers. But there

are still more than 650 unique species of flowering plants

and dozens of species of moss, lichen, algae and more

along the valleys and slopes of Denali.

The wilDlifeMany visitors remember their wildlife viewing long after

seeing (or not seeing) Mount McKinley. Quite simply, the

sheer variety and uniqueness of Denali’s wildlife make

each trip into the park special.

From spring to fall, wildlife viewing in Denali is simply

spectacular. Just listing them here doesn’t do the

experience justice, but a trip can include grizzly bear

(and cubs), moose, caribou and Dall sheep. In fact, these

four animals are known as the “Big Four” of Denali wildlife

viewing, and any visit that includes all of them is considered

a big-time success.

Wolves, which usually travel in packs, are rarely seen. Park

rangers concur that a wolf-spotting makes a park visit

even more special.

Smaller animals often seen during a Denali visit include

red squirrel, ground squirrel, porcupine, beaver, hoary

marmot, weasel and snowshoe hare. More than 35 different

mammal species live in the park and preserve.

At around 160 species, the bird life is also incredibly varied;

bird-watchers travel thousands of miles to Denali in order to

add to their bucket lists. The possibilities include ptarmigan,

Lapland longspurs, owls, eagles and other raptors. Many

birds travel phenomenal distances to spend the summer

in Alaska, including wheaters from Africa and Arctic terns

from Antarctica and southern South America.

seeing iT allVisitors can choose from many different ways to explore

the Denali area. From a simple hike in the shadow of Mount

McKinley to a helicopter tour of the area, from river rafting

to naturalist-led activities, the possibilities seem as infinite

as Denali’s landscape and wildlife.

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TOP: Denali National Park. ABOVE, FROM LEFT: Hiker on a cliff; sea otter; grizzly bear with cubs; colorful moss and lichen found throughout the park.

DenaliNational Park



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About 35,000 years ago — or maybe only 17,000

or so years ago; anthropologists are still arguing

about it — some people in what is now

Russia’s Chukotka Peninsula noticed that the

land stretched away east, farther than the eye

could see. Curious, they headed toward the

rising sun, walking across what we now call

the Bering Land Bridge.

They were the first Alaskans, and they found a

landscape ludicrously rich: herds of caribou

that stretched for miles, and streams so

choked with salmon that there hardly seemed

room for water. With the easy living came

culture reflecting the physical beauty of

the landscape: the geometric art of the

Southeast, the intricate grass baskets of the

Aleutians, the dance and music of the far

north. That was life in Alaska for thousands of

years. As close to paradise as paradise gets.

Lucrative trade deaLsBut everything changed on August 21, 1732,

when the Russian ship Gavrill appeared.

Natives paddling out to the vessel told the

sailors that on the horizon was alaskshak,

“the land that is not an island.” That batch of

Russians never came ashore, but it wasn’t

long before more Russians did — thousands

of them. The Russians liked tea, and the

people who had all the tea were the Chinese,

who liked furs. And Alaska was chock-full of

fur. Tea traded for fur, and everybody was

happy. In 1741, Russians brought back 900

pelts from Alaska; by 1800, they were taking

more than 10,000 a year. After the United

States bought Alaska for 2 cents an acre in

1867, a newspaper howled: “Russia has sold

us a sucked orange.”

RIGHT: Red outline shows the Bering land bridge,

which joined present-day Alaska and eastern Siberia at various times during the

Pleistocene ice age.

FROM TOP: Natives pose in front of a food reserve; Eskimo in boat, called an umiak, made with skins; ceremonial dance; the first dogsled team to go from Nome to Seward, c. 1900.

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Alaska’s abundance has drawn dreamers and seekers for thousands of years

By Edward Readicker-Henderson


A Brief History of an

Ancient Land

alaskahistory

13AK Brief History.indd 82 3/25/13 1:59 PM

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Gold feverIn 1896, George Carmacks, “Skookum Jim” Mason and

the now-legendary Yukon Charlie panned a little gold

out of Rabbit Creek, a tributary of the Klondike. Almost

overnight, the rush was on. More than 100,000 people

headed north.

Most of the dreamers reached the Yukon long after

all the land had been claimed. So they fanned out to

see what else they could discover. Bit by bit, the map of

Alaska was filled in as people who came for gold stayed

for the lifestyle of endless summer days and nights,

where the aurora borealis draped a rippling curtain of

blue and green light over the horizon.

49th and beyondEager to join the Union, pro-statehood forces increased

their efforts after a referendum in 1946. Alaska finally

became the 49th state on January 3, 1959. The next

boom came from the discovery of oil on the North

Slope in 1968. Today about 4,000 wells pump more than

a million barrels of oil per day through that engineering

marvel, the Trans-Alaska Pipeline.

Now it has all come full circle: People are moving to

the state in bigger numbers than ever before. Among

the many wonders of this thoroughly modern Alaska,

they find their greatest discovery is just what the first

Alaskans found: a landscape of astounding vistas,

impossibly rich in wildlife; a land of Native culture where

ancient traditions still carry on. And that’s the true lesson

of Alaska’s history. The best things haven’t changed.

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STATE SYMBOLS bird: Willow ptarmigan

land mammal: Moose Marine mammal:

Bowhead whale fish: King salmon Insect:

Skimmer dragonfly flower: Forget-me-not

Motto: “North To The Future” Song: “Alaska’s

Flag” tree: Sitka spruce Gem: Jade Sport:

Mushing (dogsledding)

ABOVE: Illustration from an old book of adventure tales;

Trans-Alaska oil pipeline.

FROM TOP: Female black-tailed skimmer dragonfly; Alaska’s state flower, the

forget-me-not; Alaska’s state bird, the willow ptarmigan,

which is completely white in winter but a rusty brown with

white wings in summer.


alaskaHistory

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13AK Brief History.indd 84 3/25/13 1:59 PM

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Imagine standing on your ship’s deck, breathing in

the crisp, clear air and watching a pod of whales

glide past a glacier. If that glacier happens to be

glistening by the light of the midnight sun, the stirring

scene will certainly be counted among the highlights

of your cruise.

Alaska is one of the few places where visitors have

the unique opportunity to discover three diverse

types of wildlife, each in its natural habitat and each

within easy reach. An abundance of marine life swims

in the state’s coastal waters, protected inlets and

rivers. Close to shore, land animals roam over steep

alpine slopes and crunch through vast stretches

of open tundra. Over 350 species of native and

migratory birds range freely between land and sea.

WaterWorldWhales — humpback, gray, orca — rank as the

largest marine creatures you’re likely to see from

your stateroom balcony. When cruising the Inside

Passage, the onboard naturalist may alert you to a

pod of whales swimming close to the ship. A keen-

eyed park ranger comes aboard in some ports to

help spot wildlife. Out on deck, fellow cruise guests

provide instant reports of sightings. Listen for excited

cries announcing, “Thar she blows.”

The ports of Southeast Alaska offer many

opportunities for wildlife sightings. Walking on

Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau or boating through

Misty Fjords in Ketchikan or Tracy Arm Fjord in

Skagway, visitors often are treated to sightings of

humpback and killer whales, sea lions, porpoises,

harbor seals, bald eagles and Sitka black-tailed deer.

Leaping porpoises enjoy riding the ship’s bow

wake. At first glance, the black-and-white variety

could be mistaken for a miniature version of the

orca (once known as the killer whale).

And don’t forget Alaska’s most renowned fish, the

salmon, famous for its mighty upstream struggle to

spawn. Salmon are an important economic mainstay

in Alaska, especially for Native communities, who

have often held ceremonies commemorating the

first catch of the season. Besides glimpsing the fish

in its natural habitat in the wild, visitors can learn

about them at hatcheries that include educational

displays and exhibits.

FROM LEFT: Orcas cruise on the coastline; a bear catches a salmon in a waterfall; Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau.

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Up north, wildlife encounters take place almost around the clock. Summertime dusk lasts until just

before dawn. Wherever Alaska’s remarkable creatures appear, the magnificent landscape creates a

stunning backdrop for the occasion.

By Ginger Dingus


Call of the

WildCall of

the Wild

13AK Call of The Wild.indd 96 3/25/13 2:00 PM

2114.indd 1 1/24/13 10:52 AM

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ABOVE: Moose in snow with white frost on trees; a North

American beaver.


Alaska has the nation's highest number of bald

eagles: about 30,000.

LandLubbersCoastal brown bears (grizzlies) and smaller black bears may be found ambling

along the beach in search of such delicacies as salmon or berries. Solitary by

nature, bears hunt alone except for mothers with cubs. During annual salmon

runs, however, they cluster around the choicest fishing holes. Grizzlies congregate

on Admiralty Island, located near Juneau, and in Katmai National Park, southwest

of Anchorage.

Moose browse for food in low-lying wetlands, even those located beside busy

roads and towns. Anchorage residents often wake to find that the blooms in

their flower beds have been devoured by hungry nighttime visitors. At twilight, be

alert for moose feeding on reeds in shallow ponds. When captured on camera,

the silhouette of a male’s huge antlers set against a pale pink sky makes a

memorable souvenir.

Likely animal encounters include the beaver, one of the more common land

dwellers. Hard-working beavers build ingenious stick lodges on countless

waterways. Caribou, although more numerous in the far north, roam southern

tundra country. Woolly mountain goats and Dall sheep, found in alpine regions,

tend to scatter quickly when approached unless you’re scouting from the

overhead vantage point of a flightseeing plane. Surefooted, they escape close-

range viewing by bounding up impossibly steep, rocky slopes.

On the wingBelieve it or not, bald eagles are among Alaska’s most readily spotted birds.

Look for a snowy white dot high in the tree branches. A bald eagle’s bright-white

head feathers stand out from the deep green foliage, making sightings easy

once you get the hang of it. Haines proclaims itself the bald-eagle capital of the

world. Thousands of the regal birds gather each fall for the Chilkat River salmon

run. Watch for eagles perched in the trees along riverbanks.

Alaska lays claim to the world’s largest concentration of bald eagles, and

offers them a protected home at the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. The preserve

was created by the State of Alaska in June 1982 to protect both the eagles and

their habitat — including the salmon runs so important to the birds’ survival. The

Chilkat preserve consists of 48,000 acres of bottom land of the Chilkat, Kleheni

and Tsirku rivers, which surround areas important to eagle habitation.

Whether it’s your first visit to Alaska or your tenth, the thrill of spotting these

captivating creatures will spark plans to return again and again.

Call ofthe Wild

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HANDBAGS AND ACCESSORIESWWW.PARAZUL.COM

Parazul scarves and charms are available in many shapes and designs that can be mixed and matched with your bag selection. Patterned after the wildlife and cultural icons of the 49th State, they also make unforgettable mementos of your visit.

PARAZUL is AvAiLAbLe At ROyAL jeWeLeRs

(TOP TO BOTTOM) Metallic Demi Bag with Garden Nouveau slim scarf and Logo charm

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CAPTURE THE SPIRIT ALASKA!of

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Glaciers have shaped Alaska’s landscape since the prehistoric age. Alaska lays claim to

more than 5,000 glaciers, covering nearly 5 percent of the state’s total land surface. They

are concentrated around the Gulf of Alaska and the coastal mountains of the Panhandle.

Southeast Alaska is one of only three places in the world (Scandinavia and Chile are the

other two) where tidewater glaciers exist. Alaska’s glaciers have been on the move —

advancing (growing), retreating (shrinking) and advancing again — for 12 million years. A

glacier is said to be advancing when the accumulation of ice is greater than the amount

that is melting, while retreating glaciers are melting faster than accumulating. Because

these frozen masses are in a perpetual state of flux, they are, in a strange sort of way, alive.

Here are just a few of the glaciers that add to the thrill of visiting this Great Land:

By Jonathan Siskin

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College FjordEach of the glaciers in this extraordinary fjord was named for

an eastern U.S. university or college that has sponsored an

expedition in the area. On one side of the fjord, all the glaciers

are named after formerly all-male institutions, while the other

side’s glaciers are called by the names of colleges that are or

were once all-female. They include:

• ColumbiaGlacier: At 300 feet high, the wall of ice called

Columbia Glacier, which is almost three miles across,

extends over an area larger than Los Angeles. Situated at

the north end of Prince William Sound, it has been retreating

rapidly since 1983. In the process of melting, it has been

dumping hundreds of thousands of tons of ice into the

sound every day. When a gigantic chunk of ice breaks away

from its walls, the glacier is said to be calving; this calving is

accompanied by an enormous roar as the newly created

iceberg plummets into the water and begins to drift away.

• HarvardGlacier: The largest of the glaciers within College

Fjord, Harvard Glacier is almost a mile and a half wide and

reaches a height of 350 feet at its center. While imposing

in size, Harvard Glacier is not especially lovely to look at,

as its sides are filled with sediment, rocks and various

debris that give it a “dirty” look. The ice in the center of

the glacier, however, is a clear, vivid blue.

• YaleandWellesleyGlaciers: Yale and Wellesley are two

of the most active glaciers in College Fjord, with Yale

retreating and Wellesley advancing. Wellesley Glacier has

shown substantial forward movement since 1980. Its most

active period occurred between 1981 and 1986, when it

surged 600 feet. However, Wellesley does not even come

close to the astounding forward thrust of the Black Rapids

Glacier (nicknamed the Galloping Glacier), which in 1937

surged more than three miles in six months.

glaCier BayIn Glacier Bay, 16 tidewater glaciers penetrate the two arms

of the bay. Situated 50 miles north of Juneau, Glacier Bay

National Park and Preserve extends more than 3.3 million

acres and can be reached only by boat or floatplane. Glacier

Bay’s highlight is the mammoth Margerie Glacier, a mile-wide

expanse of ice that rises 250 feet above the waterline.

Misty FjordsShaped by eons of glacial activity, Misty Fjords rightfully earns

its name and reputation by soaking up some 160 inches of

rain and snow each year. Here lies one of America’s largest

protected wilderness areas: Misty Fjords National Monument.

This 2.2-million-acre park is located in the heart of the Tongass

National Forest and consists mainly of an undisturbed old-growth

forest of western hemlock, Sitka spruce and Alaska cedar. Within

the monument, the deep fjords of Walker Cove and Rudyerd Bay

penetrate the remote wilderness with their sheer granite cliffs

rising to 3,000 feet. The continuously changing panorama of deep

twisting waterways, abundant wildlife, cascading waterfalls and

primeval rain forests blanketing the land is simply spellbinding.

traCy arM FjordThe stunning rounded valleys of Tracy Arm Fjord were hollowed

out by the glaciers of the last great Ice Age. Located about 45

miles south of Juneau, this 25-mile-long fjord is best known

for its stark, remote beauty carved out by glaciers into rugged

chasms and cliffs. Keep an eye out for the North Sawyer and

South Sawyer glaciers sending their icebergs crashing into the

waters. If you look closely, you may spot bears, mountain goats,

hair seals, waterfowl and black-tailed deer resting on the icebergs.

HuBBard glaCierThe mighty Hubbard Glacier extends more than 90 miles through

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park to the head of Yakutat Bay. In 1986,

the Hubbard made headlines when it began a surge, advancing

so rapidly that it completely blocked off Russell Fjord from the

sea and created a fast-rising freshwater lake. Miraculously, despite

water rushing into the ocean at a rate of 3.5-million cubic feet

per second, no serious flooding occurred in the surrounding

areas. The wall of ice was eventually broken through and the

fjord was opened. Hubbard remains one of Alaska’s most active

glaciers as it continues to advance.

OPPOSITE: Blue ice pools on Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau. ABOVE FROM LEFT: Glacier Bay National Park; seal perched on an iceberg; Hubbard Glacier.

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Gulf of Alaska

Bering Sea

Bering Strait

Inside Passage

ALASKA

RUSSIA

CANADA

UNITEDSTATES

Wrangell-St. EliasNational ParkDenali National Park

Glacier BayNational Park

Mt. McKinley

CollegeFjord

Prince WilliamSound

Hubbard Glacier

Tracy Arm FjordKenai Peninsula

Kenai FjordsNational Park

Ketchikan

Juneau

Icy Strait PointSitka

SkagwayHaines

Talkeetna

Denali

AnchorageWhittier

Fairbanks

San FranciscoVancouver

VictoriaSeattle


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Gulf of Alaska

Bering Sea

Bering Strait

Inside Passage

ALASKA

RUSSIA

CANADA

UNITEDSTATES

Wrangell-St. EliasNational ParkDenali National Park

Glacier BayNational Park

Mt. McKinley

CollegeFjord

Prince WilliamSound

Hubbard Glacier

Tracy Arm FjordKenai Peninsula

Kenai FjordsNational Park

Ketchikan

Juneau

Icy Strait PointSitka

SkagwayHaines

Talkeetna

Denali

AnchorageWhittier

Fairbanks

San FranciscoVancouver

VictoriaSeattle


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Alaska’s bustling capital and gateway to Glacier Bay, Juneau charmingly blends past and present. It’s a modern city built upon the tailings of an old gold mine. The city’s cosmopolitan style is evident in contemporary museums and office buildings, sophisticated shops and fine restaurants. Yet many are drawn to its fascinating history, which is lovingly preserved in and around its original false-fronted buildings and narrow, winding streets.

Wildlife and nature are major attractions. The area surrounding the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is a showcase for glacial activity, and boasts a network of trails to explore. Juneau is home to 114 species of birds, all five species of salmon, and several species of whales — not to mention brown and black bears. Ten miles outside the city, Admiralty Island National Monument shelters the largest brown-bear population in Southeast Alaska.

Juneau

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QuIckGUIDEFAMED FOR: The “drive-up” Mendenhall Glacier, which survives from the Little Ice Age of more than 3,000 years ago. IT’S A FACT: The city is named after Joe Juneau, who started a gold rush with fellow prospector Richard Harris in 1880. SIGNATURE SOUVENIRS: Whale-themed gifts; gold nuggets; Native art from local galleries.

Alaska’s capital city perches on the Gastineau Channel.

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Admiral St.

Juneau

LIGHTERINGFLOAT

Juneau A perfect day in:

THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT JUNEAUJuneau is the only capital with a glacier in the suburbs, the only one where you can go from gourmet dining to whale watching in less time than the average network commercial break.

The town was founded in 1880, after Joe Juneau and Richard Harris struck gold — so much gold, it seemed the veins would never run out. The works ran 24 hours a day, 364 days a year. Meanwhile, the local Auk Tlingits, who had fished and hunted here for thousands of years, wondered what the big deal was, and kept on creating some of the most sophisticated art the world has ever known.

People still pan for gold at Last Chance Basin, and the Native understanding of the landscape is still vital under the treetops at Glacier Gardens, which gives people a chance to see just what’s in the world’s largest remaining temperate rainforest. Head farther out, to the trails along Mendenhall Glacier, or helicopter up to walk on this huge remnant of the last ice age. Hop on a boat to view humpback whales feeding in the rich local waters — and you’ll still have time for shopping along Franklin Street, where everything from jewelry to the finest Native arts are just a minute’s walk from where the ships dock. — E.R.H.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT: Aerial view of Juneau;

visitors explore the Glacier Gardens; miners at the

Treadwell gold mine, 1916.

13AK_Juneau.indd 110 3/25/13 1:25 PM

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Mendenhall Glacier, a little north of Juneau, is the best known of 38 glaciers that feed on the Juneau Icefield, a 1,500-square-mile expanse of rock, ice and snow. Bigger than Rhode Island, the icefield is a remnant of the Little Ice Age, a period that started 3,000 years ago and lasted midway through the 18th century. The icefield is perpetually replenished by an annual snowfall that often tops 100 feet, and boasts snow and ice up to 4,500 feet thick.

Mendenhall Glacier stretches 13 miles from the icefield in the mountains to its terminus at Mendenhall Lake, where the

glacial face — half a mile wide, 100 feet thick and electric-blue in color — can be seen from a popular Visitor Center on the shoreline.

NATURE ON THE MOVEThe glacier possesses a frozen, still grandeur, but it’s hardly inert, notes Laurie Craig, a Visitor Center interpreter. A dynamic, moving force, the glacier is the overflow from the icefield, slowly and inexorably drawn down by gravity from 4,500-foot-high mountains to its terminus near sea level. Moving at the proverbial glacial pace, the ice edges forward at an

average rate of a few feet per day, taking more than 200 years to make the journey from upper elevations to the 220-foot-deep lake. “It’s like slow-moving lava,” says Craig. “It acquires wrinkles, crevasses and texture as it moves across the terrain.”

Mendenhall Glacier doesn’t just move. It displays tremendous erosive power as it grinds through the landscape. Scouring debris from valley walls and scraping underlying bedrock, the glacier burrows deep, enduring marks on the topography. Near the Visitor Center, the presence of grooved, polished rocks is evidence of the glacier’s sandpaper-like effects. The

A flightseeing tour offers a unique perspective when viewing Mendenhall Glacier.

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The most accessible of all the stupendous, bluish-white “rivers of ice” in the Inside Passage, Mendenhall Glacier — known as “the drive-up glacier” because it can be reached by car — dazzles visitors and makes the region a one-of-a-kind destination.

J u n e a u ®


Mendenhall Glacier Juneau’s wonder offers a stunning trip back to the Ice Age By Nick Gallo

J u n e a u ®

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We tried once. The captain got very upset.

You CAN however, take home a di�erent piece of Alaska. Capture the unmistakable blue of the Alaskan glaciers in Larimar from Marahlago instead...it even �ts in your carry on.

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Here it just feels right.ALASKA * MEXICAN RIVIERA * CARIBBEAN

You can’t take a glacier home with you.

Marahlago instead...it even �ts in your carry on.

We tried once. The captain got very upset.

You CAN however, take home a di�erent piece of Alaska. Capture the unmistakable blue of the Alaskan glaciers in Larimar from Marahlago instead...it even �ts in your carry on.

You can’t take a glacier home with you.You can’t take a glacier home with you.You can’t take a glacier

You CAN however, take home a di�erent piece of Alaska. Capture the unmistakable blue of the Alaskan glaciers in Larimar from

You can’t take a glacier You can’t take a glacier

You CAN however, take home a di�erent piece of Alaska. Capture the unmistakable blue of the Alaskan glaciers in Larimar from

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glacier also is responsible for the milky, gray-green cast that colors the lake, the result of “rock flour” deposited in the water when bedrock is ground into a fine powder.

Like all of Juneau Icefield’s glaciers except one (the Taku), Mendenhall Glacier is receding. Since 1765, the glacier has been in a slow, gradual retreat because its rate of melting has exceeded its rate of accumulation. In the 18th century at its maximum advance, the glacier’s toehold in the valley extended from its present position to a spot two and a half miles downward.

Today, receding ice has allowed land buried for thousands of years to reemerge and begin a new, remarkable ecological cycle. At first, bare rock and soil are exposed, but lichens and moss soon appear. Then grass and shrubs emerge, followed by alder, willow and other deciduous trees. Finally, Sitka spruce, western hemlock and other conifers take hold, inaugurating new forest. “These are stages of life,” says Craig.

ICY BEAUTYMendenhall Glacier is named after Thomas Corwin Mendenhall, a prominent scientist who helped oversee a crucial survey that determined the international boundary between Canada and Alaska. Previously, the famed naturalist John Muir had visited the glacier in 1879 and named it Auk Glacier in honor of a local Tlingit Indian village. Muir called the glacier “one of the most beautiful of all the coastal glaciers.”

More than a century later, Mendenhall Glacier still is one of the Inside Passage’s top natural sights. Like all glaciers, it can be enjoyed as a spectacle flaunting sublime blue colors and ineffable textures. At the same time, it serves as a time capsule, an outdoor classroom showcasing Alaska’s extraordinary geology and climatic history. “This is a neat place,” says Craig. “It’s not just beautiful. You also get to see some very impressive forces that shaped this region.”

RIGHT: Glacier trekkers ascend Mendenhall

Glacier. BELOW: The glacier is receding, revealing land long

buried beneath it.

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Established in 1900 as the Historical

Library and Museum for the Territory

of Alaska, the museum didn’t have a

permanent home until 1920. Its collection

grew quickly and, by the 1960s, it was

clear that a new building was needed.

In 1967, in honor of the centennial of

the purchase of Alaska from Russia,

the citizens of Juneau implemented

a 1 percent sales tax to help fund the

current two-story building in downtown

Juneau. Since its opening, the museum’s

collection has grown from 5,500 to 35,000

display objects.

The museum of fers a range of

permanent displays highlighting Alaska’s

history, indigenous cultures and natural

history. These displays, which take up

more than half of the exhibition space,

range from a tiny Aleut thimble basket

to a life-size eagle nesting tree and

a scaled-down version of the stern

of Captain George Vancouver’s ship,

Discovery, which plied the waters of

Southeast Alaska from 1776 to 1779 in

order to map the area.

Objects that reflect the richness of the

state today are continuously collected.

Five permanent galleries, grouped

into Native peoples, Russian-America,

American period, natural history and

the Children’s Room, feature an array of

specimens and works of art.

The Thunderbird Screen

A visit to the comprehensive Alaska State Museum provides a captivating overview of Alaska’s immense cultural and historical landscape. By Lynn Seldon

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Alaska State Museum History comes alive in Juneau’s multifaceted cultural gem

13AK_Juneau.indd 116 3/25/13 5:50 PM

DIVERSITY ON DISPLAYAmong the most popular permanent

exhibitions are clothing, weapons, tools

and ceremonial objects from Alaska’s

distinct Alaska Native populations, such

as Northwest Coast, Athabascan, Aleut,

Inupiaq and Yup’ik. Highlights include a

large explanatory state map; a 34-foot

umiak (boat), one of the famed Chilkat

blankets; and the top of the Lincoln

Totem, whose carver used President

Abraham Lincoln as a model.

Alaska’s Russian-America era is

represented by a wide variety of items.

Generally dating from the 1740s to 1867, when

Russia sold Alaska to the United States for

$7.2 million, artifacts in this fascinating gallery

include a Russian imperial crest of a double-

headed eagle and a large samovar, which

was often used to brew tea.

The American period details the

role of the United States in the region,

with particular attention given to the

development of the state’s natural

resources. An entire room covers

mining and is creatively constructed to

resemble a rugged assay (substance

analysis) office from the early days of

Alaskan mining ventures. There’s also

an exhibition of minerals found in Alaska,

as well as mining equipment and a

display case from a long-closed Juneau

store including early tourist curios.

The Children’s Room offers several

learning act iv i t ies, including the

Discovery ship replica. Young visitors

are encouraged to don period costumes,

climb aboard the ship and explore the

past. The wonder of discovery is open

to all ages.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The Eskimo gallery; the Museum Store; a display from Juneau’s mining days.


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BELOW: Hiking the trails; the view from

the tram.

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…a tram that will whisk you 2,000 feet above Alaska’s capital, where you’ll get a raven’s-eye view of Gastineau Channel, the Chilkat Mountains and the lush forests, which are actually alpine meadows, of southeast Alaska. Tickets are available for purchase from the onboard Shore Excursions Department.

At the summit of the tram, you’ll find well-marked trails and walkways — accented by ancient, traditional totemic carvings — that offer you the opportunity to absorb Alaska’s natural and historic beauty. In addition to the stunning landscape, you’ll often see eagles, ravens, Sitka blacktail deer, mountain goats, bears and wolves. An award-winning documentary, Seeing Daylight, offers insight into the local Native way of life of the Tlingit people.

From time to time, Native artisans can be seen demonstrating their skills at Raven-Eagle Gifts, which carries everything from comfortable, affordable clothing and charming souvenirs to exquisite crystal and handcrafted traditional and modern Native artworks. Fresh Alaskan seafood, prepared to order and served by friendly staff, is complemented by a pleasant alpine atmosphere at the Timberline Bar & Grill.

Within steps of the gangway of your cruise ship, you’ll find the Mount Roberts Tramway…

s p e c i a l a d v e r t i s i n g f e a t u r e

J u n e a u ®


Juneau’s Mountaintop Attraction

J u n e a u ®

13AK_Juneau.indd 118 3/25/13 1:26 PM

SEE YOUR ONBOARD SHORE

EXCURSION DESK FOR TICKETS

1421.indd 2 1/24/13 11:01 AM

Forevermark Halo pendant

CartierCalibre d e

Cartier watch

Safi Kilima Trillion ring

MakurMorganite 3-stack ring

Kabana Pink Mother-of-Pearl Collection necklace

KoriteAmmolite earrings

Zenith El Pr imero

Chronomaster watch

Piaget Altiplano watch

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>

Shopping in

JuneauHere’s the ultimate insider guide to what’s hot in town.See It? Like It? Buy It!


13AK Port Shopping Fillers.indd 28 3/25/13 6:38 PM



M a r k o f E x c e l l e n c eJ e w e l e r s

A l a sk a

Skagway253 Broadway

Juneau405 S. Franklin

Ketchikan38 Front St.

Reg

al JewelersDesigns

Limited Edition

The Perfect Match: Rose Gold and Morganite

Reg

al Jewelers

DesignsExclusive

2156.indd 1 2/11/13 11:02 AM

TroveComplement your way of life with products that are unique, tasteful and timeless, created from all-natural, recycled and new materials. Shop our exclusive collection of refined yet affordable home accessories, jewelry and clothing.

406 South Franklin Street www.shoptrove.com 907-586-9530

Alaska Shirt CompanyShop the Alaska Shirt Company in Juneau, where you’ll find hundreds of shirt styles for men, women and children and a fabulous souvenir collection. Our customers enjoy premium selections without premium prices. Located across from the Juneau Tram and Cruise Terminals.

489 South Franklin Street www. Shirtco.com 907-586-9510

House of RussiaDiscover Juneau’s rich Russian history! Explore the enormous selection of traditional handicrafts from Russia’s top artists. For over 25 years, the local owners have individually hand-selected every object in this store. Located in the golden-yellow building near the Tram.

389 South Franklin Street 877-770-2778

Alaska Shirt

JuneauSpirit

Capture the

of

s p e c i a l a d v e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n

Caribou CrossingsBuy “Made in Alaska” products here! Showcasing over 60 of Alaska’s leading artists, they search statewide to bring you crafts found in this unique store. Owned and operated by a local Juneau family. Located in the golden-yellow building near the Tram.

383 South Franklin Street www.cariboucrossings.com 877-586-5008

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The Alaskan Fudge Co.Fresh, creamy fudge made daily right before your eyes. 21 different flavors of fudge, caramel corn, cookies, homemade peanut and cashew brittle, ice cream, caramels, turtles, clusters and so much more! Family-owned. Come in for the perfect gift!

195 South Franklin Street [email protected] 1-800-323-8343

Alaska Fur GalleryFor four generations, Alaska Fur Gallery has been renowned for the quality and craftsmanship of its furs. These family-owned and -operated furriers produce a collection of men’s and women’s coats, hats, scarves, gloves, boots and slippers, with sizes from petite to plus. The Ultimate Alaskan Gift!

359 South Franklin Street [email protected] akfurgallery.com 907-463-5588 888-722-3877

AlaskaKnifeworksFrom Ulus to the finest folding pocket knives in the world, we’ve selected only great quality — blacksmiths, scrimshaw artists and top-quality cutlery from around the state and the world for sale in our Juneau store.

2 Marine Way, Suite 114 In the big, blue building at the end of the Juneau dock.

JuneauSpirit

Capture the

of


13AK Spirit of Juneau.indd 2 3/25/13 1:30 PM

Flight Deck Outdoor Seafood BarSpectacular food and views in Juneau! Located on the big

blue Wharf deck by the floatplanes, with weather-protected

seating on the pier. Open rain or shine, daily at 11 a.m. Enjoy

the best fish & chips, ice-cold Alaskan beers plus crab boils

and fish tacos. No reservations required.

# 2 Marine Suite 125

907-723-5935

Twisted Fish Company Alaskan GrillA wild place for wild fish! Waterfront restaurant located

next to Tram & Taku Fish processing plant, serving fresh

Alaskan seafood, appetizers and entrees daily from 11 a.m.

Full-service bar and outdoor seating available.

Reservations suggested.

550 South Franklin Street

907-463-5033

Juneaueats


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Come in to see our PANDORA charms to remember your Alaskan adventure!

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Ketchikan is often referred to as the Rain Capital of Alaska, since rain may fall every day. But Ketchikanners don’t seem to mind; in fact, they proudly predict: “If you can’t see Deer Mountain, it’s raining, and if you can see it, it’s going to rain!” So be careful when you use the phrase “Save it for a rainy day.”

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QuickGUIDEFAMED FOR: Totem poles; Native villages; the vast Tongass National Forest — the largest in the United States. IT’S A FACT: In the 1880s, pioneers came to Ketchikan to fish for salmon rather than pan for gold. SIGNATURE SOUVENIRS: Salmon products; miniature totem poles; other items from the boutiques on Creek Street.

A vast rainforest is Ketchikan’s backyard.


THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT kETcHIkANKetchikan peeks out of the mist like a hidden treasure, and when the sun does come out, it shines on one of the prettiest spots in Southeast Alaska.

This is the best place in the world to see totem poles, whether those along the water at Totem Bight State Historical Park; the antique poles at the Totem Heritage Center; or, as proof Native culture is thriving, the massive collection at Saxman, a one-mile-square Tlingit village. Other towns have some poles, but not this many — and nowhere else are there so many people with poles in their front yards.

As Alaska’s southernmost town, Ketchikan offers a taste of what a visitor is in for: bald eagles diving into the Gastineau Channel almost every evening, catching fishermen’s discarded bait; float planes landing after a day of flightseeing to Misty Fjords; a landscape of endless forest; waterfalls; the whoosh of exhaling killer whales. Walk along Creek Street — once the red-light district, now a line of boutiques just minutes from the dock — and check for spawning salmon in the waters below. Or get adventurous and see what’s under the water: Ketchikan has some of Alaska’s best snorkeling.

Totem poles are history, a way of telling a story. Alaska’s story begins here in Ketchikan, under the totems’ watchful gaze. — E.R.H.


K e t c h i k a n ®

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Totem Heritage Center; Misty Fjords waterfall; Creek Street.

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In the old days, a totem-pole carver might

have to pay with his life.

For centuries, as far back as five

hundred years, the first thing visitors

would see when approaching a village

in Southeast Alaska would be a line

of totem poles facing the ocean. One

glance at the geometric designs would

be enough to detect who lived in the

town, what clans were represented and,

most important, something about the

people and their history.

Totem poles were never religious

objects; instead, they told stories, kept

the past alive. Traditionally, the Native

men who carved the poles were the

only people welcome in every village,

and they worked hard for this honor.

Entrusted with the memory of a people,

carvers went through much the same

training as a shaman; then, before a

village hired a pole carver, they’d make

him pass the equivalent of a graduate-

level exam on local mythology. It could

take a year to carve a large pole and if,

in the end, the carver got it wrong, if he’d

done something that changed the story,

his life was in the villagers’ hands.

THE TOTEm RENAISSANcEThose days are gone. There’s a new

generation, a new wave of totem-pole

carvers. Working out of carving sheds

in almost every Alaskan town of size,

combining innovative styles with time-

honored tools, they’re finding ways to

tell the story of a region that is changing

dramatically, very quickly. They’re adding

words to the language of the totem

pole and discovering just how flexible

Totem poles and Native art keep culture alive by telling stories of life in Southeast Alaska.

Today’s totem carvers add new faces to the landscape.

Perpetuating a Proud HeritageStory and Photography by Edward Readicker-Henderson




Now THIS is Alaska!

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that language is. The carvers are now

making totem poles relevant to everyone,

expanding their community to encompass

the globe.The carving revival happened just in

time. Totem poles nearly became extinct in the first half of the 20th century. Poles have a natural life span of about 60 years; formerly, when that period was over, they were left to rot and decay. Many poles were hitting this point right when another problem arose: In Canada, the government was suppressing Native traditions; and in Alaska, the government was making a conscious effort to put Native culture on the back burner.

But the tide finally turned in the 1950s with renewed interest in local customs and Native rights.

Today, the new breed of carvers reaches out to a new audience. Tlingit Norman Jackson of Ketchikan says he carves so “everybody [will] understand our people. That’s why I learned you have to share the art.”

The first step was to bring the old poles back. Most contemporary carvers learned their craft by making faithful reproductions of dying poles. Wayne Price, a Tlingit from Haines, and non-Native Steve Brown from Seattle carved five replicas for the Kik-Setti Totem Park in Wrangell. Tlingit Nathan Jackson of Ketchikan, Southeast’s premier carver, made a beautiful replica of a pole taken from Southeast in 1899 by the Harriman Expedition, part of a turn-of-the-century pole rush, when museums and private collectors all over the world were grabbing poles while the grabbing was good.

AdROIT ARTISANS Poles have always been carved from western red cedar, and most poles are

the carving revival happened just as a new appreciation for native traditions was taking shape.






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two or three feet in diameter. To get that smooth inner wood, the carver must hunt through the old-growth rainforest for a tree perhaps three times that size, one that was young when British Captain James Cook sailed in the area in the late-18th century. After a century of logging in Southeast’s forests, the biggest challenge facing the artisans at present might well be finding a suitable tree.

Before carving begins, the log is cut in half and hollowed out to prevent the wood from cracking. Carvers could use modern power tools, of course, but they eschew them. Most poles are still carved with a small hatchet, called an adz, and an assortment of drawknives. Even the

paint jobs tend to be conventional, with pigments made of plants, charcoal and oxides.

Using ancestral techniques doesn’t mean the carvers are adhering to the old styles, however. The new poles offer novel twists: a mirror to represent the sun and a Care Bear to please the carver’s daughter on Native Alaskan Lee Wallace’s poles outside Ketchikan’s Cape Fox Lodge; crossed flags of a state that didn’t exist when the first totems were carved on a Nathan Jackson pole at Ketchikan’s Totem Heritage Center; a stylized mother holding a realistic baby, both sheltered by a classic raven and frog on Nathan Jackson’s son Stephen’s masterpiece pole at Juneau’s tramway. The current generation of carvers freely mixes and matches old and new elements. The tale is more important than how it’s told, and though once limited by tradition, nowadays the stories are about anything from the record of a hunting trip to the report of a great vacation. A lot of recent poles are simply about the pole creation itself — who designed it, who was behind it, the community that found this activity the best way to come together.

Putting up a pole has always been serious, expensive business. In 1879, the famed naturalist John Muir wrote that “the erection of a totem pole…is often talked of for a year or two beforehand,” and “from one to two hundred blankets, worth three dollars apiece, are paid to the genius who carves them.” Today, a carver can easily be paid upward of $2,000 per foot of artwork.

Money is forthcoming: Towns are commissioning poles; private collectors are putting poles in their houses; no upscale establishment in Alaska is considered complete without a couple of poles; and

museums worldwide are commissioning poles, both replicas and originals.

A pole raising still brings everybody out. It can take a hundred people or more to carry a big pole. In the past, the carver would dance, with all his tools hanging from him, while someone else told the story of the pole. Now you probably won’t get the dance, but the storytelling remains the high point of the ceremony and the celebration goes on all night.

No matter how the poles alter in form, no matter how the reasons for putting up a pole may change, the spirit behind the poles stays the same. As Nathan Jackson explained in a radio interview, poles tell “what we are, what we belong to, and what we’re born with.” They’re the faces of the coastal landscape, stories of the past and present given to the future.

Masterpieces of expression

Mother and child

“the erection of a totem pole…is often talked of for a year or two beforehand.”

—John Muir, naturalist, 1879




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Wildlife is everywhere in Alaska! Crabs, eagles, whales, octopus, sea lions, porpoise, wolf eels, sharks and seals are all frequent

visitors on the Bering Sea Crab Fishermen’s Tour.

There are no rogue waves or rough seas here! You will set out in the calm, protected waters of the Inside Passage to witness

first-hand the amazing way of life of commercial fishermen.

This fascinating, educational and interactive tour experience is perfect for all ages and is packed with stories and adventures

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In the early days, the low doors also made

it easy for the people inside the house to

bonk you on the head with an axe and

push you back outside if they didn’t want

you to come in. Fortunately, that doesn’t

happen anymore.

The clan house — sometimes called

a tribal house — was once the center of

Native family life in Southeast Alaska. And

like many other Native traditions, after

fading away in the late-19th and early-20th

centuries, the tribal house is back. In

fact, it’s more important than ever — the

embrace of the clan house extends to the

entire community.

Ketchikan is the best place in

Southeast Alaska to get a look inside.

One of its two houses is a replica that

enlivens the past; the other is the center

of the town’s daily life.

mOdELING THE PASTAt Totem Bight State Historical Park, 12 miles

north of Ketchikan’s cruise ship dock, a

masterly reproduction of a classic tribal

house was built by the Civilian Conservation

Corps right before World War II. Its primary

characteristics tell us much about the

people who lived in such houses.

The clan house was a winter dwelling

for Southeast Alaska Natives, who spent

their summers at fish camps. Like all

traditional clan houses, the one at Totem

Bight is a simple box, basically one large

room with platforms ringing the central

fire pits. Each house was inhabited by

an extended family — anywhere from

30 to 100 people. The house chief’s

living quarters, situated near the rear

of the dwelling, were separated from

the rest of the house by a large, carved

wooden screen. Everyone else lived

communally, although each individual

had his or her own space, probably

defined by bentwood boxes or blankets.

A person’s relationship to the house

chief was indicated by the proximity of his or

her personal space to the patriarch’s space.

Traditionally, houses were built by workers

of the opposite moiety, or tribal subdivision,

from the people who would live in the

house — that is, Ravens would build for

LEFT: Typical clan house door. ABOVE: Interior house post, Totem Bight tribal house.

Bow low when you enter a traditional clan house in southeast Alaska. it shows respect to the house and to its inhabitants. Besides, you won’t have any choice: A typical clan house doorway is only about four feet high, reminding those who cross the threshold that they’re entering a different world.

Inside theClan House Story and Photography by Edward Readicker-Henderson




Eagles or Wolves, and vice versa — and

once the house was completed, the family

would hold a feast for everyone as part of

the dedication ceremony. Houses were

named, but the name could live beyond

the structure; a new house built in the same

spot might carry the same name, as long

as part of the original family still lived there.

The tribal house in Totem Bight

represents typical Native construction of

the early-19th century. The house is built

of red cedar, spruce and hemlock; the

roof is shingled with cedar shakes; and

the ridgepole is the same as one that

the naturalist John Muir described in 1879:

“yellow cypress…two feet in diameter, forty

feet long, and as round and true as if it

had been turned in a lathe.”

The structure faces the water, as all such

Native dwellings did. A village might have

had eight or ten of these houses, ranging

in size from 30 by 40 feet to 50 by 100 feet,

lined up along the shore.

The Totem Bight house’s four interior

corners are graced by elaborately carved

house posts. Resembling indoor totem

poles, house posts varied in their intricacy:

Some were adorned with abalone shells

for eyes and with real human hair. The

floorboards of a tribal house lifted up

to reveal storage space beneath for

housewares, blankets and treasured items.

Drying meats and other foodstuffs were

stored suspended from the rafters.

The bentwood boxes, fashioned without

nails, were made of cedar wood. Spruce

fibers were transformed into cooking pots.

Long strips of cedar bark, also used as

medicine, were woven into clothes. Indeed,

everything in a clan house was made of

spruce or cedar.

REAcHING OUTTotem Bight’s clan house was built as a

museum to keep the memory of the old

days alive. No one lives in clan houses

anymore. But that doesn’t mean they’re

irrelevant. As Tlingit Donna Diamond

points out, in this day of single-family

dwellings, the modern-day tribal house

serves to unite the community into

a family of sorts.

A visit to Saxman, two and a half miles

south of the Ketchikan waterfront, is the

ideal way to discover the way the “new”

clan house functions. Saxman is an

independent Native village that occupies

a square mile of territory inside the greater

Ketchikan borough. The approximately 450

people who call Saxman home maintain a

strong sense of their Tlingit identity.

While not a residence, the Beaver Clan

House, built in 1987 and surrounded by

Alaska’s best collection of totem poles, is

used in a very traditional manner. The clan

holds regular festival nights at the house

and also conducts wedding ceremonies.

And it’s the venue for watch nights —

something akin to a wake — when the

community comes to say good-bye to

one of its members.

Saxman has both a municipal

government and a tribal government,

and some tribal affairs are administered

at the clan house. “If we have conflicts,”

Saxman resident Nora DeWitt says, “that’s

where we go to settle them.”

But the Beaver Clan House is more

than the center of life in Saxman. By

welcoming visitors for all manner of

Native programs, the clan house reaches

out beyond the village. Musicians play

centuries-old songs on traditional

instruments for audiences from around

the world. Storytellers keep Native oral

traditions alive. There are activities for

kids and an artist’s co-op. In the summer

months, the house is open for tours and

regular performances of Native dances.

Something is happening at the clan

house almost every day of the year,

offering visitors a glimpse into the heart

of the village.

Once upon a time, the clan house was

a place where family stayed together, safe

and secure from the dangers outside.

Now, as Diamond explains, it’s “a gathering

place…where different people come

together.” The tribal house still unifies;

only now, its reach is broader than ever.

So don’t forget to bow down when

you enter a clan house. You’re being

admitted into the heart of a community —

a place of honor.

The colorful exterior of a clan house




Protecting the Future

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Entrance to the Deer Mountain center; bald eagles at its bird sanctuary; a newly hatched salmon, one of the life stages that visitors can observe; two spawning salmon; rearing ponds.

Wild creatures have an advocate in the Deer Mountain Tribal Hatchery and Eagle Center, a tribally operated facility that promotes “conservation, education, and stewardship of the indigenous birds and fish of Southeast Alaska.” The center offers guided and narrated tours to educate visitors about the ties between Native people and the wildlife with whom they share the land.

Its rehab center for sick and injured wildlife displays a collection of non-releasable birds that include three bald eagles, one golden eagle and a peregrine falcon. The fish hatchery raises salmon and steelhead trout to supplement Alaska’s wild fish species and to share with elderly members of local Native communities. Salmon are released into Ketchikan Creek and Ward Lake, where they spawn; they later return to Deer Mountain to hatch their young. The hatchery helps to protect the vitality of Alaska’s salmon industry, a crucial means of survival for many Native families.

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Crown of LightCrown Brilliant earrings

Day 2 NightFlip ring

Zenith Pilot Montre d Aeronef Type 20 watch

KabanaRiviera round pendant

with blush chain

Charles Krypell I Love You 7 Days a Week bracelet

Orocal Gold quartz heart shaped pendant

HublotBig Ba ng

Ferrari watch

Star of AlaskaNatural-mineral-stone pendant

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Shopping in

KetchikanHere’s the ultimate insider guide to what’s hot in town.See It? Like It? Buy It!



Sterling silver charms from $25

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124 Main Street • Ketchikan, Alaska 99901907.225.3272

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Over the past 120 years, endless amounts of gold have been mined in Alaska; however, very few gold nuggets weighing over 30 ounces have ever been found. One now belongs to David Conner.

In the fall of 2012, Conner, owner of Orocal Natural Gold Co., received a call from an Anchorage area number. He was offered an opportunity that, in over 45 years of doing business in Alaska, he had never seen. The caller was selling an authentic 30-ounce Alaskan gold nugget from his family estate that had been found years earlier.

After careful consideration, Conner agreed to the sale. “You see, finding a nugget weighing over one ounce is considered rarer than a five-carat

diamond, so can you only imagine how rare a thirty-ounce nugget is?”

According to Conner, most gold pieces found are between 1 and 2 millimeters. Nuggets of this size can be bought at any of the Orocal Natural Gold Co. authorized dealers in Ketchikan and throughout Alaska. They can then be cut by skilled craftspeople into a beautiful piece of jewelry or as keepsakes to remember your trip to the Last Frontier.

Conner is not sure if he’ll be selling “The Big One” anytime soon, but he hopes to put it on display at one of his authorized dealers to allow visitors a chance to see and even hold it.

To learn more, visit www.orocal.com.

David Conner’s 30-ounce gold nugget contains some natural quartz.

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According to Conner, most gold pieces found are between 1 and 2 millimeters. Nuggets of this size can be bought at any of the Orocal Natural Gold Co. authorized dealers in Ketchikan and throughout Alaska. They can then be cut by skilled craftspeople into a beautiful piece of jewelry or as keepsakes to

Conner is not sure if he’ll be selling “The Big One”

between 1 and 2 millimeters. Nuggets of this size can be bought at any of the Orocal Natural Gold Co. authorized dealers in Ketchikan and throughout Alaska. They can then be cut by skilled craftspeople into a beautiful piece of jewelry or as keepsakes to


Alaska. They can then be cut by skilled craftspeople into a beautiful piece of jewelry or as keepsakes to


NUGGETS The Next Big Thing




KetchikanMining CompanyVisit Ketchikan Mining Company for Alaskan gifts and souvenirs, apparel, jewelry, smoked salmon and Alaska-made totem poles. We also have a large section of Hatley pajamas for everyone in the family. Located on the cruise ship dock.

30 Front Street [email protected] 907-247-3444 888-994-3444

the outlet storeLocated steps from your ship, we are Ketchikan’s exciting retail location! We sell souvenirs and have a large selection of bulk candy and homemade fudge. Our fudge is delicious!

5 Salmon Landing #100 [email protected] 907-225-3008

KetchikanSpirit

Capture the

of

Great AlaskanSouvenirs & GiftsGreat Alaskan Souvenirs & Gifts is a locally owned and operated Alaskan souvenir and T-shirt store located next to the Salmon Landing Market. We offer shirts, jackets, souvenirs, salmon, unique gifts and much more. Don’t forget to shop in our fun kids’ shop! 330D Spruce Mill Way [email protected] 907-247-1414


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To their surprise, they found in the forests of Southeast Alaska some of the world’s finest trees; the wood was ideal for shipbuilding. The Spanish quickly capitalized on this bounty by harvesting and shipping the wood to Baja, where it was used to expand their ever-growing fleet of ships.

The news of the 1898 Yukon gold rush set the stage for the construction of small sawmills throughout Southeast Alaska to provide lumber for the building of shantytowns and to fuel the boilers of the hundreds of steamships racing up and down the coast with gold seekers from the Lower 48. By the early 1900s, as the gold rush slowed, settlers focused on the vast runs of salmon in the region. Newly opened canneries needed millions of feet of cedar to build crates to ship the salmon.

World War II brought another boom to the region’s forest industry. Alaska’s readily available Sitka spruce was the lightest, strongest wood known, a high-grade lumber used in the production of planes and ships. After the war, Alaskan lumber was shipped to Japan to rebuild the war-torn nation. In fact, the Japanese market has consumed more Alaskan lumber in the past 50 years than any other country.

Today less than one percent of the Tongass National Forest is set aside for logging. Ninety percent of the roadless wilderness remains untouched.

All over the region, you can see loggers compete in small competitions and relive the good old days of the logging era. In Ketchikan, you can catch a live 75-minute competition between Alaskan and Canadian lumberjacks. Watch World Champion athletes, as seen on ESPN and OLN (Outdoor Life Network), compete in various events, such as log rolling, chopping, sawing and tree climbing. The daily show is hosted by the colorful Tale Twister, the camp cook who tells stories about these rugged men and their rugged land.

A rich lumber source

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In the early 1600s, the Spanish explored the waters of the Inside Passage of Alaska in hopes of establishing trade relations with the natives.

Alaska’s Logging History



Scanlon GalleryScanlon Gallery has a great selection of gold nugget jewelry made in Alaska by Rita Bishop. Rita combines other stones and opals with her designs to complement the beauty of the Alaskan gold nugget, which is the gem of Alaska. Rita’s Gold Nugget Jewelry can be found at Scanlon Gallery in Ketchikan, Alaska.

318 Mission Street www.scanlongallery.com 907-247-4730

sitka furgalleryFor four generations, Sitka Fur Gallery has been renowned for the quality and craftsmanship of its furs. These family-owned and -operated furriers produce a collection of men’s and women’s coats, hats, scarves, gloves, boots and slippers, with sizes from petite to plus. The Ultimate Alaskan Gift!

312 Mission Street akfurs.com 907-225-8870 888-649-3820

nick michael’sThis one-of-a-kind gallery contains an incredible collection of beautiful art by Alaskan and other U.S. artists, who capture the beauty of Alaska. Artists’ media include glass, bronze, metal, bone, ivory, wood and pottery. We have sculptures, dolls, knives, ivory and glass jewelry, scrimshaw, Christmas collectibles and much more.

328 Mission Street nickmichaelsgallery.com 907-225-3338

KetchikanSpirit

Capture the

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318 Mission St. in Ketchikan 907 247 4730www.ScanlonGallery.com

Brenda Schwartz

KriS BliSS

rita BiShop

A p r e M i e r G A l l e r y

alaskan art handcrafted made-in-alaska gifts original paintings limited editions Glass pottery Sculpture

Magical jewelry Books w

Under the Welcome Arch on the historic

waterfront

Specializing in the finest of authentic

Northwest Coast and Alaskan Native art

318 Mission Street � Ketchikan � www.arcticspiritgallery.com � 907 228 2277

The Tongass Nat ional Forest , encompassing more than 16 million acres, is the largest national forest in the United States and an integral part of Ketchikan’s economy and lifestyle. Most people are surprised to learn that the Tongass is a rainforest, albeit a temperate one; there is no defined rainy season and rain may fall here every day. On the first floor of Ketchikan’s Federal Building, the U.S. Forest Service Interpretive Center runs an excellent program about this natural wonder.

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Tongass National Forest


Into the Woods


Ketchikaneats

Black hoodie sweatshirt availaBle at fish Pirate’s saloon


fish pirate’s saloonVisit Fish Pirate’s Saloon and take in the rich history of Alaska’s fishing industry. We specialize in Alaska king crab and fish & chips, with four Alaskan beers on tap. Our gift shop offers unique items to remind you of your memorable experiences in Ketchikan.

76 Front Street 907-225-1600

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It was the birthplace of the Klondike gold rush, but Skagway was a much different place before gold fever struck. Only one family lived here, and there was only a crude trail over the White Pass. Native Tlingit people lived in the next valley at Dyea, where the traditional trade route over Chilkoot Pass led from the coast to the interior of Canada.

Today, Skagway glories in its golden past with such attractions as the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, celebrating the Klondike gold rush through 15 restored buildings within the Skagway Historic District. And if you don’t feel like walking, horse-drawn carriages will transport you through town in true 19th-century style.

It was the birthplace of the Klondike gold rush, but Skagway

Skagway

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QuickGUIDEFAMED FOR: An Old West atmosphere, with horse-drawn carriages and other 19th-century tributes. IT’S A FACT: The gold rush began here on Aug. 17, 1896, when the precious metal was discovered on Rabbit Creek. SIGNATURE SOUVENIRS: A hand-painted miner’s pan; a replica engine of the White Pass & Yukon railroad; a postcard from the Red Onion Saloon.

The White Pass & Yukon Route Railway brings visitors into a breathtaking scene.



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FROM TOP: The view down Broadway in downtown Skagway; helicopter tour over the mountains.

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VISITORINFORMATION

RAILROADDOCK

RAILROADDOCK

Skagway

THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT SKAGWAYComing ashore in Skagway is taking a walk into history: Downtown hasn’t changed much since it first sprang up as a jump-off point for the great 1898 Klondike gold rush. Back then, thousands of people walked Broadway, buying gear for the trip north. Today, the false-front buildings are just as busy with art galleries and duty-free shops.

Jammed into a tiny box valley, with glaciers shining on the eastern mountain slopes and the deep waters of the Lynn Canal reflecting the ice, Skagway looks like it was designed by a postcard company. Or maybe a toy train manufacturer. Each summer day, the beautifully refurbished White Pass & Yukon Route Railway runs excursions along trails originally worn smooth by the boots of would-be prospectors. You can still hike the Chilkoot Trail today, or just fly over the glaciers and rugged mountains in a helicopter and look down on the trail.

In Skagway itself, almost nothing is more than a few minutes’ walk away. Stop at the Last Chance Saloon or Captain Moore’s House to see what life was like during the rush; catch the Days of ’98 show at the Eagle’s Hall; try panning for gold at the old dredge. Or just walk out to Yakutania Point for the best view of the town, the ships, the fjord. —E.R.H.

Skagway A perfect day in:

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Skagway253 Broadway

Juneau405 S. Franklin

Ketchikan38 Front St.

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Gold brought with it commerce and

permanence; the settlers needed a way

in and a way out. The line, The White Pass

& Yukon Route (WP&YR), was completed

in two years, two months and two days.

Now the White Pass & Yukon Route’s

narrow-gauge railroad, headquartered

in Skagway, is one of Alaska’s top visitor

attractions. From May to September 2012,

it carried more than 390,000 passengers.

They got to enjoy breathtaking scenery

outside and charming nostalgia inside:

The polished green-and-brass parlor cars

are straight out of the 1890s, boasting wide

windows and comfortable seats.

In the White Pass office, a fabulous hand-

painted mural depicting the colorful history

of the WP&YR wraps around all four walls of

the depot waiting room.

Originally, the WP&YR covered 110

miles, from Skagway across the lofty

St. Elias Mountains to Whitehorse, the

capital of Canada’s Yukon Territory. These

days, trains run along the first 67.5 miles

of track, between Skagway and Carcross,

Yukon Territory. Rail buffs rate the trip as

one of the great train rides of the world.

At Carcross, a “golden” spike was driven

into the ground on July 29, 1900, to mark

the line’s completion. WP&YR officials and

Called the “Scenic Railway of the World,” Skagway’s White Pass & Yukon Route Railway offers spectacular views.

The railroad’s original route

More than a century ago, a railroad was born of a gold rush. Gold was discovered in the Yukon Territory in 1896. During the period 1897-1898, the stampeders arrived in Alaska en masse on their way to the Yukon.

A Railway Built of GoldBy Stanton H. Patty


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guests gathered in Carcross on July 29,

2000, to celebrate the railroad’s centennial.

BUILdING THE “ScENIc RAILWAY Of THE WORLd” Gold was discovered in the Klondike

country of the Canadian Yukon, almost

500 miles north of Skagway, near the

end of the 19th century. The whispered

word “Gold!” became a shout

heard around the world, and

soon the stampede was on.

Thousands of hopeful miners

poured through Skagway on

their way to the goldfields

around the Klondike’s new

boomtown, Dawson City.

There were two perilous gold

trails from the Skagway area. One was the

avalanche-prone Chilkoot Trail. The other

was known as the White Pass Trail. Both

ended at Lake Bennett, British Columbia,

where the gold-fevered prospectors built

crude boats and rafts to float down the

Yukon River to Dawson City.

Halfway around the world, British

financiers in London were looking

for ways to cash in on the Klondike

madness. They reasoned there must

be a better way to get prospectors over

the mountains — and harvest a share of

the miners’ gold. Sir Thomas Tancrede,

an English aristocrat, was dispatched to

Skagway in 1898 to explore the feasibility

of building a railroad into the Yukon.

Tancrede had a look around and decided

that the mountain barriers were too high,

the grades too steep.

He was just about to file a negative

report when Michael J. Heney, a Canadian

railroad contractor, hiked into Skagway

after scouting the mountain passes

around Lake Bennett. Tancrede and his

companions invited Heney to join them

for a drink at Skagway’s St. James Hotel.

The men talked far into the night. Heney

affirmed that a railroad could be built

through White Pass. “This country needs

this railroad — and I would like to be the

man to do it,” he told Tancrede. “Give me

enough dynamite and snoose [snuff], and

I’ll build a road to hell!”

Heney was hired, and construction

began on May 28, 1898. But even as the

first ribbons of steel pointed toward White

Pass, trouble was brewing

back in Skagway.

At the time, Skagway was a

rowdy town ruled by an outlaw

gang. A visiting Canadian

Mountie called it “little better

than a hell on earth.” Robberies

and murders were common

occurrences. Honky-tonk

pianos accompanied the

crack of gunshots and cries

for help. Jefferson Randolph

“Soapy” Smith, a sometimes charming,

always dangerous con man, reigned over

both Skagway and the gold trails.

Local merchants decided that Soapy

Smith and his gaggle of gangsters had to go.

The town’s wicked reputation was driving

away business.

The showdown came on July 8, 1898.

Vigilantes gathered on the Skagway

waterfront. Smith, hearing about the

meeting, downed a glass of whiskey,

then, rifle in hand, marched down the

street to confront his foes. Frank H. Reid,

the town surveyor, blocked his way. There

was a brief scuffle. Smith shot Reid in the

groin; Reid fired his revolver at almost the

same instant, putting a bullet through

the scoundrel’s heart. Smith died on the

scene. Reid, mortally wounded, expired

shortly thereafter.

TOP: Builders braved dangerous conditions. ABOVE: Monument in Carcross commemorates the centennial of the completion of the White Pass & Yukon route.

Jefferson Randolph Smith, aka “Soapy” (1860-1898)

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Thirteen days later, the White Pass & Yukon

Route dispatched its first train on a four-

mile excursion for Skagway dignitaries. Two

and a half miles out of town, the tracks

meandered by the fresh graves of Soapy

Smith and Frank Reid.Heney’s men continued toiling toward

the White Pass summit. They hacked and blasted through the mountains with picks, shovels and black powder, sometimes dangling on ropes hundreds of feet above thundering rapids. They swatted swarms of mosquitoes in summer and endured winter temperatures plunging to 60 degrees below zero.

The tracks reached the 2,865-foot- high White Pass summit in February 1899. And on July 29, construction crews coming from Skagway and Whitehorse met at Carcross.

“ALL ABOARd!”Nowadays visitors are immersed in history as they ride the WP&YR train along the old rail trail over White Pass. While passing the Gold Rush Cemetery, passengers see a tall granite shaft over Reid’s resting place inscribed: “He gave his life for the honor of Skagway.” Smith’s grave is just outside the cemetery boundary. The good people of Skagway were not about to plant his remains in hallowed ground, Skagway tour guides tell visitors.

Just beyond the cemetery, the tracks rise quickly from sea level into the snowcapped peaks and blue-white glaciers of the St. Elias Mountains. The train weaves, climbs and grinds toward the crest of White Pass, looping across cliffhanging cuts with dizzying views of misty waterfalls and traversing granite paths where the boot prints of Klondike stampeders can still be seen.

The stampede to the Klondike was a frenzy that burned out in little more than two years. But the White Pass & Yukon Route, a nugget from that epic gold rush, chugs along as one of the last remaining narrow-gauge railroads in North America.

The White Pass & Yukon Route Railway is recognized as an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

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These exquisite timepieces are made from exotic hardwoods sourced from sustain-able forests around the world. Local economies are supported, workers can live with dignity, fragile forests are preserved and you get to wear a unique timepiece and feel good about doing it. And for every watch purchased WeWood will plant a tree. Sounds like a good deal all around.

Supporting companies like WeWood is just one more part of our nurturing nature.

Skagway Juneau Cabo San Lucas

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Our Nurturing Nature.These exquisite timepieces are made from exotic hardwoods sourced from sustain-able forests around the world. Local economies are supported, workers can live

319 S. Franklin St., Juneau

525 Broadway, Skagway

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The glaciers that carved this landscape came through at a height of around 3,500 feet, grinding down anything beneath them. Land higher than 3,500 feet escaped the glaciers’ clip job.

Now consider: The glaciers did the same thing to all that land that today lies underwater. And there may be no better example of this than the Lynn Canal, the longest, deepest fjord in North America. The Lynn comes in at a bit over 90 miles, end to end. In some spots, it measures more than 2,000 feet deep, from the top of the calm water where ships travel to the darkest recesses of the ocean floor.

That alone wouldn’t be so spectacular. But in some places, the canal is not much more than a mile wide, with boundary cliffs rising a couple thousand feet into the sky.

The canal is an important shelter for marine mammals. Seals and sea lions haul out on shoreline rocks (watch for visible ears — sea lions have them, seals don’t), and it’s not at all uncommon to see humpback whales coming in to feed off upwellings created by the steep underwater geography. And high above, bald eagles fly past mountain goats browsing fingernail-size cliff ledges.

REmARKABLE JOURNEYNearing its head, the canal splits, the left fork heading toward the Chilkat River and the town of Haines. Another few miles straight on, the channel narrows and then splits a final time: Now the left fork goes to the ghost town of Dyea, little more than a few collapsed buildings whispering memories of the gold rush. The right fork dead-ends at Skagway, where the geography of the mountains

around the town echoes the canal: narrow, steep, the peaks whispering their own memories of glaciers.

Come evening, the cruise ships have to back out of Skagway’s docks and do a three-point turn toward Dyea as if taking a last look back at the place that held so many hopeful miners’ dreams. Tugs escort the ships, ready to keep them on track if the canal’s famed winds start to blow; from the decks of the tugs, the ships seem like movable walls, their lights sparkling.

And under it all, the seals, the whales, the otters go about their business as usual. The canal is home to them, but they don’t seem to have any trouble sharing it.

The deep fjord passes through high mountains.

Seals hanging out on the rocks along the shore.

The majestic bald eagle

Here’s a trick to guessing the heights of mountains in Southeast Alaska: If the tops are rounded and gentle, they’re under 3,500 feet or so; jagged mountains are over 3,500 feet. Why? Simple…

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The Lynn CanalImprint of Ancient AlaskaBy edward readicker-henderson

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750 Broadway • Skagway, AK 99840888-877-5841

You’re Invited to Experience

Creek Street, Ketchikan

Mendenhall Glacier, Juneau

4th and Broadway, Skagway

Breathtaking Images Summer breezes gently bend the treetops. A mist conceals a harbor. Snow freshly dusts the mountains. A bird contemplates flight. Artist Robert Howard Hunter captures these peaceful moments in his mind’s eye. He then translates them into breathtaking images in both realistic and abstract watercolors. Over four decades, he has produced 45 one-man shows and has participated in more than 160 exhibitions. From watercolors to graphite drawings, his work withstands the passage of time.

A Vision of Harmony Amid the dynamics of a new era, Robert Hunter conveys a world that remains unchanged, unspoiled. His world is tranquil and richly diverse, yet robust with natural beauty. His visual images speak of rural roots, a small-town heritage and connections to the land and sea. Communicating this is natural and vital to Robert’s existence. His creations are messages that he sends to art lovers throughout the world. Robert’s art reveals a vision of harmony and balance within our world and within the universe. His abstract paintings include beams, arcs and bands of muted and dazzling light. They hint of opposing textures. Spectrums of contradictory hues coexist compatibly, synergistically.

A Special Invitation We invite you to visit our studio for a quiet preview of Robert Hunter’s work. Capture your treasured memory of Alaska in an original watercolor or signed and numbered print. Proudly display in your own home his vision of America’s landscapes and seas. Share his gift of world peace and harmony.

Alaska

–Robert Howard Hunter

When you leave the ship, ride the SMART bus to 750 Broadway.

“We should surround ourselves with a personal sense of delight. Alaska reflects the majestic beauty in our world. Its scenery helps us feel centered and alive. It quiets our souls.”

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Kabana Alhambra Collection ring

Ernst Benz ChronoLunar Officer watch

Regal Omega Limited Edition Mark Henry pendant on Omega necklace

Gift Collection Diamond hoop earrings

Safi Kilima Tanzanite ring

Day 2 Night Reversible tanzanite earrings

Crown of Light Fleur De Crown diamond ring

Forevermark Halo earrings

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Shopping in

SkagwayHere’s the ultimate insider guide to what’s hot in town.See it? Like it? Buy it!



Come in to see our PANDORA charms to remember your Alaskan adventure!

Discover the beautyDiscover the beautyof � o� oms

2nd & BroadwaySkagway, AK 99840

907.983.3402

431 S. Franklin StreetJuneau, AK 99801

907.586.1001

OMNI JEWELERS317 S. Franklin Street

Juneau, AK 99801907.586.5911

JUNEAU JEWELRY CO.

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Robert Service James MichenerJosephine Sarah Marcus Earp

Pierre BertonJack London

TOP: Alaska authors. ABOVE: Robert Service’s cabin in Dawson City, 1958. BELOW: The cover of Jack London’s classic novel, The Call of the Wild.

Robert Service, also known as the Bard of the Yukon, perhaps captures Skagway best in his poem, “The Trail of Ninety-Eight,” which recalls the days when he “joined the weltering mass/Clamoring over their outfits, waiting to climb the Pass.”

But Jack London is the town’s best seller. “The dogs dashed up on the street, adding to the gayety of Skaguay,” he wrote (with the spelling of the time) in The Call of the Wild.

It was easy to have fun in Skagway. Naturalist John Muir said the town resembled a “nest of ants,” because it was the end of civilization: Beyond lay nothing but that calling wild.

Still, Alaska’s wild spirit made even the great gunslinger Wyatt Earp nervous, according to his bride, Josephine Sarah

Marcus Earp, who wrote I Married Wyatt Earp. The book also mentions one of Earp’s pallbearers, Wilson Mizner, a member of Skagway’s infamous Soapy Smith gang.

Soapy’s crew conned nearly every miner who passed through, and inspired endless myths. They developed such notoriety that they earned a cameo in one of Disney’s Uncle Scrooge comics and a major role in James Michener’s Alaska, a novel that seems to be half the size of the state itself.

The gold rush has passed, the streets are tamed, but Skagway is still proud of when it was, as Pierre Berton recounts in Klondike , “outrageously lawless.” Because that makes for great stories — stories they’re still telling in the town’s streets and beyond. —E.R.H.

The stampeders of the great Klondike gold

rush left two things in Skagway: hopeful

paths so worn they’re still visible, and a

mountain of stories.

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Telling Tales

Skagway’s wild beauty inspired characters both

real and imagined



SkagwaySpirit

Capture the

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Corrington’sAlaskan Ivory and MuseumFamily-owned for 44 years. Experts in walrus and mammoth ivory, jade, soapstone, artifacts, masks, totemics and Native art. Beautiful and free museum of Alaska history told on scrimshawed (etched) ivory walrus tusks. Come in and meet trader Corrington, an Iditarod racing veteran. Next to the free bathrooms at the Skagway Bazaar.

5th Street at Broadway


Skagway Outlet StoreThe original outlet store in Southeast Alaska. A little farther down Broadway, but worth the walk for service, the huge variety of items, and the Alaskan atmosphere. You won’t want to miss this store.

7th Street at Broadway

The Alaska Knife & Ulu StoreHuge selection of Alaskan and USA-made knives and ulus with beautiful blades and exquisite utilitarian handles. Located next to the Skagway Brewing Company and Alaska Fudge Store. We carry William Henry, Buck, Kershaw, Bob Merry, Eddie Lee, Pierce, Dale Duby, J- 2, Beaux Recatto and more.

7th Street and Broadway

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Alaska Shirt CompanyWith over 9,000 square feet of retail space and 100,000-plus shirts, we have more souvenirs than anyone. Located near the Train Depot.

1st & Broadway www.ShirtCo.com 907-586-9510

SkagwaySpirit

Capture the

of

Alaska

alaskafur galleryFor four generations, Alaska Fur Gallery has been renowned for the quality and craftsmanship of its furs. These family-owned and -operated furriers produce a collection of men’s and women’s coats, hats, scarves, gloves, boots and slippers, with sizes from petite to plus.

The Ultimate Alaskan Gift!

4th and Broadway akfurgallery.com

907-983-3877

877-722-3877


Dejon DelightsThe “Made in Alaska” ShopAlaskan family-owned and -operated since 1984. We feature fine handcrafted Alaska gifts including our own smoked salmon, a wide variety of local food items, woodcrafts, artwork and body care products.

326 3rd Avenue www.dejondelights.com 907-766-2505


ChangingThreads StoreFeaturing seaweed yarn dyed in-store and sold exclusively at Changing Threads. Visit our new location at 370 Third Avenue. We have recently combined with our sister store, Rushin’ Tailor’s QuiltAlaska, to provide you with great customer service and resources for all your quilting and needle art needs. Now both great stores under one roof.

370 Third Avenue

changingthreads.com

Rushin’ Tailor’sQuilt AlaskaWe feature a huge selection of Alaskan and Northern themed fabrics as well as Northern themed Quilt Kits and patterns. Check us out at 370 Third Avenue, near the corner of 3rd and Broadway.

370 Third Avenue quiltalaska.com

The AlaskanFudge Co. of SkagwayEnjoy a large variety of delicious handcrafted fudge and confections at this locally owned candy store. Using fine ingredients, the Alaskan Fudge Co. of Skagway creates mouthwatering confections on marble tables right before your eyes. Looking for the perfect made-in-Alaska gift? We have a large selection of hand-dipped turtles, clusters, fudge, caramel corns and brittles.

Broadway & 7th 907-983-2052

skagway brewing Co.Great micro brews, delicious pub fare and good times. We are Skagway’s local craft brewery! We have in-house hand-crafted ales, local halibut and salmon, great burgers and fries, a game room and gift shop. We work hard. We play hard. And we KNOW how to have a good time.

7th & Broadway skagwaybrewing.com 907-983-BREW (2739)

SkagwaySpirit

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Maybe it ’s that way because not everybody who came for the gold rush went away when it was over — or when their earthly lives were over.

Skagway is literally haunted by some of its long-ago pioneers. Or so the local lore has it.

BANSHEE BUSINESS

The town’s most famous ghost is in the Red Onion Saloon. Besides the usual business of creeping footsteps, clanking chains and pounding hearts, this spectre also seems to like watering the plants.

The Golden North Hotel was built as the height of Alaska luxury in 1898. For a hundred years, ghosts enjoyed sharing rooms with live strangers. The hotel has been converted into a shop, but there’s still a chance of the dining-room ghost walking by, wondering what all those T-shirts are for.

Finally, the most reliable ghost report: A town official was working late and alone in the Eagles Hall, where The Days of ’98 Show has been held for more than 25 years. This official heard banging and clanking and then something that he said was way too close to a scream.

He left. Fast. But the ghosts of Skagway remain. —E.R.H.

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634 Broadway • Toll Free 1-888-595-4556GiFTs From AlAskA For The enTire FAmily

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Eskimo Dolls • Totem Poles

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425 Broadway • Skagway

The false-front buildings of Skagway seem frozen in time, forever standing in that 1890s heyday of long skirts for women and mackinaws for men.

The Ghosts of Skagway: They Haunt Us Still

S k a g w a y ®





Ma r k o f E x c e l l e n c eJ e w e l e r s

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Skagway • Juneau • Ketchikan253 Broadway 38 Front St.405 S. Franklin

ReversibleWhale TailPendant

Onyx and man-made Opal inSterling Silver

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Regional Highlights

Haines. This picturesque port has drawn

visitors since 1879, when naturalist John Muir

and other settlers paddled in by canoe

and were welcomed by the Chilkat people.

Besides human travelers, it attracts the

largest annual gathering of bald eagles;

some 4,000 of the regal birds flock to Haines

each fall. Perhaps they’re lured by the Alaska

Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, a 48,000-acre

state park that strives to protect America’s

great national symbol. Historic sites include

Fort William H. Seward, a former U.S. Army

post established in the 1900s, where totem

carvers demonstrate their artistry; the Cultural

Heritage Center, which features dioramas

and artifacts that present local Tlingit history

as well as Haines’ pioneer roots; and Dalton

City, a re-creation of an 1898 mining town.

Icy Strait Point. Visitors are fully engaged

in Icy Strait Point, which offers exhilarating

recreation, intriguing culture, delicious

food and authentic local Southeast Alaska

shops. Nature enthusiasts find it ideal for

wildlife spotting: Orcas and humpback

whales cruise offshore, coastal brown

bears lumber on land and bald eagles

soar above. Icy Strait Point is the homeland

of the Huna Tlingit Natives, whose history

and culture can be explored at the Native

Heritage Center. The restored Icy Strait

Point Cannery re-creates the days when

the salmon-processing facility was an

essential part of the community.

San Francisco. The famed Fisherman’s

Wharf is one of the top draws in the city

by the bay, where majestic Golden Gate

Bridge rises a breathtaking 220 feet at

mid-point. A ferry takes visitors across the

bay to Alcatraz, which is still remembered

as one of the nation’s most feared prisons,

decades after it shut down and became a

museum. Chinatown also beckons, offering

a heady mix of old traditions and new

attitudes. The city’s historic cable cars are

the easiest — and most memorable — way

to get up and down all those steep hills, and

as National Historic Landmarks, they offer

a piece of living heritage. Just across the

bay lies Sausalito, an artists’ colony where

boutiques and galleries line the waterfront.

San Francisco also is close to the esteemed

wine country of Sonoma and Napa Valley.

Seattle. Founded in 1851, the so-called

Emerald City celebrates its past at Pioneer

Square, which is a National Historic District,

and at Chinatown-International District,

where Seattle’s Asian-American heritage

Pristine wilderness near Haines Space Needle and Mount Rainier, Seattle

Cable cars en route to San Francisco Bay

An orca offshore at Icy Strait Point

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® R e g i o n a l H i g h l i g h t s

is showcased at restaurants, shops and

historical exhibits. Shoppers find plenty

to keep them happy at lively Pike Place,

the oldest open-air market on the West

Coast; here, local artisans, farmers and

other merchants offer their wares. Seattle’s

numerous museums and cultural venues

include Seattle Center, which is located

on the grounds of the 1962 World’s Fair —

birthplace of Seattle’s most famous icon,

the Space Needle. Take a ferry across

Puget Sound and enjoy a stunning view

of the Olympic Mountains, the Cascade

Range and Mount Rainier.

Sitka. Visiting Sitka is like taking a step back

in time and across the seas, embarking on

an adventure to explore Alaska’s multicultural

roots. The city boasts museums, cultural

events and historic sites that preserve Tlingit,

Russian and early American heritage. Its

most famous landmark is the beautifully

domed St. Michael’s Cathedral on Lincoln

Street; the Russian Orthodox church holds

some of the most treasured Russian icons

in the United States, including priceless

paintings and vestments.

Vancouver. Lovely parks and exquisite

botanical gardens fill this Canadian port, host

of the 2010 Winter Olympics. One of the most

impressive parks is Stanley Park, a 1,000-acre

forested peninsula filled with beaches and

walking trails, including a seven-mile-long

seawall. In the center of the city, atop Little

Mountain, sits Queen Elizabeth Park. Once

a humble quarry, it is now a sunken garden

blooming with shrubbery and flowerbeds,

and housing an aviary for more than 100

free-flying birds. Eastern inspiration blossoms

at the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese

Garden. Chinese artisans created the

garden with materials imported from China

and used traditional building methods dating

back to the Ming Dynasty.

Victoria. The influence of Victoria’s

English founders remains strong in this

pretty city of well-tended gardens and

charming homes. During the gold-rush

days of the mid-1800s it was home to

thousands of hopeful prospectors. Today

it showcases its nautical past at the

Maritime Museum of British Columbia,

which displays some 5,000 treasures. The

heart of the city curves around the quaint

stone-walled Inner Harbour, around which

are such attractions as the Undersea

Gardens, the Royal London Wax Museum

and the ivy-covered Empress Hotel.

Queen Elizabeth Park, Vancouver

British Columbia Parliament, Victoria

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Majestic mountains standing watch over Sitka

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om

TANK ANGLAISENew CollectionDiamonds International

Available exclusively in Juneau, Ketchikan and Skagway

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