Top Banner

of 3

1975feb27.pdf

Apr 04, 2018

Download

Documents

DucViking
Welcome message from author
This document is posted to help you gain knowledge. Please leave a comment to let me know what you think about it! Share it to your friends and learn new things together.
Transcript
  • 7/29/2019 1975feb27.pdf

    1/3

    Sand Trap Construction and Design

    Application of Two Basic Principles

    Eliminates Water, Faulty Drainage

    How is the drainage in yoursand traps? What is the need

    or improvement? \\That is the

    problem-wetness, was h i n g, re-

    quired excess raking, dirty sand,

    poor edges, lost design?

    Sand Trap Design

    Think back. Are the edges and

    ides of each trap adequ~te? Has

    he grass crowded in along low

    ides? Do irrigation and rain wash

    and and soil down? Does the trap

    need improvement to contribute to

    he challenge of the game? Does

    t contribute to the contrast and

    andscape? Let's look at two prin-

    ciples and some illustrations.

    Principle OnePrinciple one is that no surface

    water should enter the trap. Of all

    principles in sand trap construc-

    ion, this one is paramount. If wa-

    er from rain or irrigation washes

    sand and soil, it is a double loss

    and double trouble. Not only must

    he sand be replaced, but the dirt

    makes the sand crust so more rak-

    ng and loosening are needed.

    First, start with the perimeter.

    Stake out the new outline and re-establish a stable uniform surface

    (Photo 1). Then if necessary, cut

    adjacent sad into thick layers and

    stack along edge to form ample

    height as indicated by rod and

    transit measurements (Photo 2).

    William H. Daniel is professor of agron-

    omy at Purdue University, Lafayette,

    nd., a position he has held since 1957.

    He has received M. S. and Ph. D. de-grees from Michigan State University

    and a B. S. degree in agriculture from

    he University of Arkansas. Daniel is a

    member of the GCSAA Educational Ad-

    visory Council and recipient of the

    1975 GCSAA Distinguished Service

    Award.

    Golf Superintendent/February 1975

    In the example pictured, the

    weak sad was cut where the apron

    could be lowered and stacked to

    contour, up to 15 inches deep.

    Then the exposed soil was loosened

    and raked to fill against the wall

    of sad. The apron was lowered

    and all material on site was used.

    Only new sod for resurfacing was

    hauled in (Photo 2). This per-

    mitted building up the edges for

    easier maintenance and yet al-

    lowed good trap contrast and con-

    tour. Plan and modify to achieve

    principle one, that no surface wa-

    ter run into the trap.

    An Alternate Plan

    An alternate plan would be to

    intercept flowing water. When theedges of the trap are not diversion

    slopes, use vertical trenching to

    intercept the water flow. Just

    above the trap and near the top of

    the slope, make a narrow (about

    three-inch) and shallow (6-inch to

    IS-inch) trench as long as needed.

    Place two-inch corrugated plastic

    tubing into the trench and backfill

    to overflow with washed sand.

    If the area is lowered to form a

    by William H. Daniel, Ph. D.

    modest depression, resodding after

    vertical trenching should begin at

    the trench. Leave a one-inch open-

    ing between sod strips. Fill the

    openings to overflow with sand toassure rapid water infiltration. Fi-

    nally, check with a transit and rod

    and with even flowing water to as-

    certain whether water actually is

    diverted (Drawing 1).

    Principle Two

    The second principle of sand

    trap design is that drainage must

    be ample. When the rain stops, is

    the trap a puddle? Because play-

    Photo 1 (left): The f i rststep in improving sand

    trap design to provide

    adequate drainage is to

    reestablish a stable, uni-

    form edge.

    27

  • 7/29/2019 1975feb27.pdf

    2/3

    Drawing 1. Interceptor drain in downslope.

    terminal and go into the lowest

    portion of the trap, continue to

    the upper end, back along the

    base of the slope and return to the

    outflow terminal (Photo 4). This

    gives two exits and minimizes both

    water and sand movement withinthe trap.

    Remove good sand and throw it

    up the slope as needed. Use a

    narrow tile shovel to make a 6-inch

    to 10-inch deep trench in the sub-

    grade. Keep a wheelbarrow nearby

    for the dirt from th,e trench (Photo

    5). Use the dirt to fill the bank or

    to sub grade the slope. Discard the

    excess.Install two-inch plastic corru-

    gated tubing in the trench. Slit-

    style tubing having 90 perforations

    ing pressure today is so intense, no

    trap ever should hold standing wa-

    ter. Play should not be delayed

    because the traps need to be

    raked. The following procedure

    outlines a modem way to achieve

    drainage:

    Step 1. Decide where the out-

    How will terminate. Itmay termi-

    nate in a fairway but should be

    one mower's width from the trap

    in the least traveled area. In Photo

    3 the area just below the trap was

    adequate. Or the outflow could

    have terminated into an existing

    tile system.

    Step 2. Decide where to install

    the drain tubing. Where possible

    make a loop. Start at the outflow

    Photo 2: Cut away adjacent sod. Stack along the edge to achieve ample height and

    to create a firm wall.

    Photo 3: The blind end of the tee is cut

    to leave a center strip and two openings.

    28 Golf Superintendent/February 1975

  • 7/29/2019 1975feb27.pdf

    3/3

    a foot which allow sand particlesto form a filter is recommended.

    Step 3. Complete the outflowterminals. If the outflow terminalis in a nearby surface, completethe terminal by attaching to eachdrain tube a T fitting with a blindend in an upright position. Cut theend open with a knife to leave a

    center strip and two openings(Photo 3).

    Place the terminal in a trenchthat has ample downhill slope. In-.stall a small French drain withsand fill under each T. Use extraPVC pipe to extend the top of theT to the soil surface ifneeded.

    Backfill with soil and sod soequipment can move over the area.This gives an outflow to the sur-face for a rush of water and alsoprovides the slower French drain

    for the last trickle of water. If thefinal outflow is tied to an existingtile system, connectors are avail-able to tie the drain tube to the

    Golf Superintendent/February 1975

    tile. Be sure to allow ample slopeso the tubes wash clean when wa-ter is flowing.

    Method Saves Time, Labor

    The most commonly used sys-tem has been to install a four-inchdrain pipe. This system requiresextensive trenching and backfilling

    with pea gravel. It is time-con-suming and difficult work. Theprocedure outlined in this articlemakes the job relatively small andis just as effective. The projectpictured in Photo 6 was completedin one day with 30 man-hours oflabor.

    I recently observed a golf coursewith more than 60 traps. After anormal half-inch rainfall, all buttwo traps on the course held waterdeeper than sand for more thantwo hours. How does your golfcourse compare? If water stand-ing in traps delays play, considerimproving the drainage by using

    Photo 4 (left): Layout the flexible plas-tic drain pipe, making a loop when pos-sible.

    Photo 6 (below): This rebuilt trap wascompleted in one day with 30 man-

    hours of labor.

    Photo 5: Throw soil into wheelbarrowto use for fill or for easy discard.

    a method patterned after the oneoutlined above.

    Modifications will have to bemade to adjust to each particularsituation, but always rememberthe two basic principles of improv-ing sand trap drainage: no surfacewater should run into any trap,and drainage must be ample. If

    you observe these two principles,your projects will have a high

    probability of success. -

    29