1914, The End of the Edwardian Era - Pitt MeadowsServices/images/100 year... · 1914, The End of the Edwardian Era . ... a style that lasted throughout the ... Men Silk top hats remained

1914, The End of the Edwardian Era

By 1914, women's clothing had lost the rigid, tailored lines of the Edwardian period, and the styles of fashion's first great design genius, Paul Poiret,

obliterated the need for wearing tight fitting corsets. Shortly before the outbreak of World War I, fashion had taken on a whole new look based on

Orientalism with its soft drapery, and bold prints. The lines of Russian peasant costume appeared in hip length tunics, a style that lasted throughout the

war years. During the Great War, higher hemlines exposed a gap between the tip of the boot and a skirt hem. The look distracted from the overall

appearance of an outfit, so the high button boots of the past were abandoned. Women wore shoes with heels that featured a slight curve. Tango shoes"

had criss-crossing straps at the ankles that peeked out from draped and wrapped evening skirts. During the war years, working women wore sensible

laced shoes with round toes and lower wedge heels.

During the war, as men went off to fight, women took on jobs formerly filled by men. Women and girls who previously worked as domestic servants took

on jobs in munitions factories, performed administrative work, took work as drivers, nurses, and farm workers. They volunteered for organizations like the

Red Cross, and joined the military. Many of the occupations demanded the wearing of uniforms, including trousers. A military look crept into fashion

designs as well with military style tunic jackets, belts, and epaulets.

A new image of freedom and self respect led women away from traditional gender roles. They drove cars and demanded the right to vote.

Before the war, Paris led the world of fashion. But due to the privations of war, and loss of communication between the US and Europe, New York

emerged as a fashion leader with new designs based on a combination or femininity and practicality.

During World War I, people took to a plainer lifestyle. Women stopped wearing jewelry, and the lavish clothing of the Edwardian period fell by the wayside.

As women dressed for new roles, gender dictated dress codes relaxed. Skirts became shorter, as they often do during wartime and colors became sober

and muted.

The Edwardian era starts with the death of Queen Victoria in 1901 and ends most technically with the

death of her son King Edward the 7th in 1910 but is considered by some to end with the sinking of the

Titanic in 1912 and by most with the outbreak of WW I in 1914. In France the corresponding Belle Epoch

also ends with war in 1914. For the purpose of our centennial we should consider our clothing period to

be very late Edwardian.

The Edwardian Era

Below: 1914, French

“By 1914, skirts were widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankle.

These hobble skirts made long strides impossible. “

The Day Dress

Top left: 1914 day dress.

Above left: summer day dress, 1914.

Top right: tea dress, 1910 to 1915.

Above right: mid decade with large hat.

Bottom right: day dress, 1916-1918.

Bottom left: hem lines up with War.

Bottom Centre: 1910’s.

The Suit Left: tailored travelling suit,

1914. Pre war opulence is gone.

Below: Fur hats and wraps are

in.

Far right: blue wool suit,

1914/15.

Near right: cotton summer suit,

1915/16.

Casual Wear Le crevat used by women in this period as

was the sailor suit.

1915-1918

1914-1917

Dress &

Evening

Bobbed hair of Irene

Castle becoming more

popular.

1914-1915 1914 - 1916

Pre war evening gown 1914-1920

1914 left

1910-1914

1914-1917

1914

More Dress & Evening

1914

Oriental

Influence

1915/16

1914

1915

1914

Long line corset, 1910.

The war brings relief

with the corset easing

up. Full underwear for

men.

What Lies Beneath

To the Beach

1912 working man

1914

traveller

1914

1915

1913

1914

1913

Formal dress shirt collars

were turned over or pressed

into "wings". Collars were

overall very tall and stiffened,

with rounded corners. The

usual necktie was a narrow

four-in-hand. Ascot ties were

worn with formal day dress

and white bow ties with

evening dress.

note the white bow tie.

Children

1914 -

1916

Fashion for children in the 1910s

evolved in two different

directions, day-to-day and

formal dress. Boys were

dressed in suits with trousers

that extended to the knee and

girls' apparel began to become

less "adult" as skirt lengths

were shortened and features

became more child-focused

(Villa 28). The war affected the

trends in general, as well (Villa

36). Military influences in

apparel for little boys was

typical and the lengths of skirts

for girls were cut shorter yet

because of material rationing

(Villa 37). The boys even wear

shorts in the winter.

Hats for Women

Hats for

Men

Silk top hats remained a

requirement for upper class

formal wear; soft felt

Homburgs or stiff bowler hats

were worn with lounge or

sack suits. Flat straw boaters

and fedora hats were

acceptable for a wider range

of activities than previously,

and Panama hats were worn

for travel. Gentlemen of all

classes, especially the

middle and working class

often wore the newsboy cap

and flat cap.

Shoes

The Great War created a

leather shortage and saw the

introduction of cloth topped

shoes and boots, functional

footwear that appeared mostly

in black.

Downton Abbey – post Edwardian

(1903) through major events of

the early 20th century including

the sinking of the Titanic and

WWI.

New Images of Early Pitt Meadows Fashion (Blaney

Album)

Some Sources to Investigate

http://www.nataya.com/ http://www.Recollections.biz

http://www.premierclothing.com/Shop/c/3-victorian-edwardian-ensembles/ vintagedancer.com

http://www.lavendersgreen.com http://www.antiquedress.com/gallery.htm

http://www.polyvore.com/titanic_era/collection?id=2164118

http://www.florencecostumes.com/costume.php?id=15

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1912.html Past Patterns (http://www.pastpatterns.com)

http://reenactingtoremember.wordpress.com/patterns/1912-womens-patterns/

http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/articles/1912frocksxmas.html

http://www.thefind.com http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/restored.htm

http://www.forestcreekrenaissance.com/Edwardian-Gowns-Dresses-s/353.htm?gclid=CJLJrZ38lLgCFQ1xQgodM38A0w

http://www.ladiesemporium.com/store/ladies_victorian_dresses.php?gclid=CK-r5sX8lLgCFcR_Qgodzk8AkA

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/mens_victorian_outfits.php

www.waistedefforts.com/titanic http://www.squidoo.com/titanic-dresses

http://www.amasquerade.com/costumes_1901_1918_edwardian.asp

http://www.vintagedancer.com/edwardian/edwardian-womens-clothing/

esty ebay amazon

Make your own – mccalls 5523 skirt and lengthen to ankle; shirt 6513 and shorten to waist and arms to

below elbow; add waist sash or simplicity 2058 or new look 6079/6433/6463 or 6072 kimono, 6186 top, 6945 top or

burda skirt 7124/b7196 (lengthened)/7215(lengthened)/7216 (hobbled)/b8973 or vogue skirt 8499, jacket

v8756/v8654/v8519/v8333/v8676/v8621

simplicity 5974 – empire waist or 9716 or 5943 or 1772 or 8399

butterick b4212 or 5405 or 4954 b5662 b5696 b4093 mccalls 7426

Check out Fabricana on United for

period patterns and for fabric.