February 2015, Volume 15, 2015 Newsletter Editor: Donna Otero 4975 Friendly Farms Road Greensboro, NC 27406 [email protected]GMKC by-laws state that the newsletter is to be distributed 2 weeks IN AD- VANCE OF THE GENERAL MEETING. Therefore, ALL articles and information for the newsletter need to be submitted by the TUESDAY that is 2 WEEKS FOL- LOWING THE GENERAL MEETING. For the March 2015 newsletter, I will need all your information by Feb. 23, 2015 Opinions expressed in this news- letter are those of the contributor and do not necessarily reflect the views of GMKC either as a group or individual- ly. Advice or helpful hints should never be taken as substitutes for personal veteri- nary counsel. Contact and referral persons are in no way guaranteed by the GMKC 2014 Officers and Directors President—John Schoeneman Vice President—Martha Milligan Secretary—Janet Broome Treasurer— Gene Hains Board of Directors Beth Warren Bobbe Jackson Lynn Rowell Www.greatermonroekc.org All Meetings are Now Held at the Hilltop Bistro Next Meeting is Tuesday, Feb. 9, 2015 at 7:00 p.m. 1602 E. Roosevelt Blvd. Monroe, NC 28112 (704) 289-3733 We meet in the back room of the Bistro. In order to mini- mize interruptions to the meeting, please plan to arrive by 6:00 p.m. if you are having dinner. Guest Speaker Mary Dukes, AKC Rep, will give a presenta- tion on conducting and reporting Show Committee Hear- ings at the February 9th Meeting. Board Meeting will follow after the regular meeting ad- journs. Click Box Below for most recent publicaon Inside this edion: AKCommunicates Page 1 Membership Dues Page 2 January 2015 Meeng Minutes Page 3 January 2015 Board Meeng Minutes Page 4 Karen’s Korner Page 5
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GMKC by-laws state that the newsletter is to be distributed 2 weeks IN AD-VANCE OF THE GENERAL MEETING. Therefore, ALL articles and information for the newsletter need to be submitted by the TUESDAY that is 2 WEEKS FOL-LOWING THE GENERAL MEETING. For the March 2015 newsletter, I will need all your information by Feb. 23,
2015
Opinions expressed in this news-letter are those of the contributor and do not necessarily reflect the views of GMKC either as a group or individual-ly.
Advice or helpful hints should never be taken as substitutes for personal veteri-nary counsel.
Contact and referral persons are in no way guaranteed by the GMKC
2014 Officers and Directors
President—John Schoeneman
Vice President—Martha Milligan
Secretary—Janet Broome
Treasurer— Gene Hains
Board of Directors
Beth Warren
Bobbe Jackson
Lynn Rowell
Www.greatermonroekc.org
All Meetings are Now Held at the Hilltop Bistro
Next Meeting is Tuesday, Feb. 9, 2015 at 7:00 p.m.
1602 E. Roosevelt Blvd.
Monroe, NC 28112
(704) 289-3733
We meet in the back room of the Bistro. In order to mini-
mize interruptions to the meeting, please plan to arrive
by 6:00 p.m. if you are having dinner.
Guest Speaker Mary Dukes, AKC Rep, will give a presenta-
tion on conducting and reporting Show Committee Hear-
ings at the February 9th Meeting.
Board Meeting will follow after the regular meeting ad-
ease, dental disease, prostatic disease, and sensory loss.
Behavioral problems that look like CDS may include generalized anxiety, separation anxiety, fear-related aggression, pain-related
aggression, noise or storm phobias, lack of housetraining, attention-seeking behaviors, and compulsive disorders. Often there
will be concurrent behavioral and medical illness as medical and cognitive disorders may exacerbate existing, previously undiag-
nosed, behavior problems.
Treatment
There is no cure for cognitive dysfunction and the disease is progressive; however, therapies in the form of environmental enrich-
ment, dietary change, supplements, and psychoactive drugs have been shown to delay progression and improve the associated
behavioral signs. Any therapy found to be effective should be continued for life as long as there are no problems (liver or kidney
disease, drug interactions, dietary intolerance, etc.)
o Environmental Enrichment in the form of exercise, new and interactive toys, and learning new tasks – “teach
an old dog new tricks” – has been shown to improve learning and memory.
o Diet change – Hill’s Prescription Diet b/d contains Vitamins E and C, the antioxidants beta carotene, selenium,
alpha-lipoic acid, flavonoids and carotenoids from fruits and vegetables, L-carnitine to enhance mitochondrial function, and ome-
ga-3 fatty acids to promote cell membrane health. In clinical trials this diet alone significantly improved learning in dogs with
CDS. When combined with environmental enrichment these results were even greater. B/d is available for dogs only.
o Dietary Supplements are now available for both dogs and cats:
SenilifeTM, ProneurozoneTM, Denosyl®/Denamarin® (SAMe) are a few examples of those available
for dogs and cats in the US. Your veterinarian will be able to recommend the appropriate supplement if one is right for your pet.
o Psychoactive drugs:
Anipryl® (selegiline) is the only drug approved for use in dogs with CDS. The American Association of
Feline Practitioners supports its use in cats with CDS diagnosed by a veterinarian. Anipryl® has several drug interactions. Please
discuss ALL medications and supplements, including flea and tick products with your veterinarian so that he/she can determine if
it is safe for your pet to take this medication concurrently. Your veterinarian will perform blood and urine testing before starting
this medication to ensure your pet is healthy enough to take it.
o Prognosis
Forty-eight percent of dogs 11-14 years old showing signs of impairment in one behavioral category develop impairment in
two or more categories within 6-18 months without treatment.
Clinical trials have shown improvement in existing behavioral signs of CDS and delay of onset of additional signs in several of
the treatment modalities discussed here. Please consult your veterinarian to determine if your pet has signs consistent with
CDS and to select an appropriate treatment plan.
Return to Karen’s Korner
Introducing your new dog to your cat
From Ohio State Univ. School of Veterinary Medicine
Introducing a new dog to your existing cat
Before bringing your new dog home, make sure your cat has a refuge. When you bring the dog home do not let him have full ac-
cess to the house. Confine him to one or two rooms using baby gates. Let your cat investigate this newcomer at her own pace.
Keep the dog confined until the cat is comfortable moving around the house and ap-
proaching the baby gate to investigate.
Next, set up some controlled meetings. Put the dog on lead and walk him into the room
where the cat is sitting. Walk him around the room on a loose lead (a tight lead will transmit your anxiety about the situation to
the dog). Do not allow the dog to act inappropriately toward the cat (barking, lunging, chasing). A mild correction ("no") and a
request to "sit" should suffice. If the correction is too severe the dog will associate getting into trouble with the cat. Reward calm
behavior from the dog using praise and food treats. Give special treats and praise to the cat when the dog is in the room to help
create a positive association with the presence of the dog.
The cat may hiss, swat, and growl at the dog. Do not punish her for this or she will associate the dog with the punishment. Re-
peat these controlled meetings until both animals remain calm and relaxed with each other. Don't allow the dog to have free run
of the house until you are certain the animals are comfortable with one another.
Most dogs and cats can live together peacefully. It is important to remember that dogs are natural predators of cats. For this rea-
son you should never permit the dog to chase the cat or pick her up in his mouth. You may know that the dog has friendly inten-
tions but the cat doesn't!
Return to Karen’s Korner
INTRODUCING A NEW DOG TO YOUR CURRENT DOG
From Ohio State Univ. School of Veterinary Medicine
Before adding a new dog to your household, the first thing to consider is whether you really want another dog just for the sake of
having another dog. Although sometimes a new dog may work out to be a great companion to the dog you already have, there is
really no way to know in advance if that will be the case. Dogs with separation anxiety frequently remain distressed even if there
are other dogs in the house with them, and if the dogs turn out to be incompatible the new dog will introduce new problems.
Once you've decided to get another dog, you'll want to make the introduction with a minimum of stress. Here are some sugges-
tions.
Introduce a new dog
Give some thought to choosing a new dog who can be compatible with your present dog. In our experience, conflict is least likely
to occur between a male dog and a female dog. Male with male is the next best combination, female with female is the combina-
tion most likely to result in conflict. When you choose a new dog, consider your present dog's needs. For example, try not to
bring a very active young dog into a home with an older dog who already has health problems such as osteoarthritis. If you do
get a puppy or young dog, be prepared to "protect" the older dog from her. You will have to spend plenty of time with the new
dog and offer distractions to keep her from harassing the older dog.
Try to introduce the new dog at a time when you will have at least a weekend to be home. You will want to observe and
supervise closely at first. It is best not to leave two newly introduced dogs alone before they have become acquainted and the
new dog is at least somewhat comfortable in his new home.
Introduce the dogs in a neutral area rather than your own home or yard.
Both dogs should be on leashes for control, but try to allow them a little room to maneuver. They may be calmer if they
don't feel
completely restrained. You will need one adult for each dog.
Have the person walking the new dog approach from the side and "catch up" to you and your dog as you walk. Pick an
area where you can walk together with a little distance between the dogs. As they walk they can look at and sniff each other, but
there will be other things to catch their interest as well. Try to do this in an area without a lot of other people and dogs so that
neither dog is over-stimulated. The walk should end at your home.
If you have a yard and the weather permits, it may help to bring the dogs into the yard before going into the house. At
first, allow them on a long leash until you notice relaxed and "wiggly" body postures and interest from both dogs. Once they ap-
pear relaxed and interested in a friendly manner, you can allow the leashes to drop so that they can interact.
When you first enter the house don't let the dogs jostle each other in an entryway. Try to get both into the house quick-
ly so that one doesn't react to the other's entrance later.
Make sure there is an environment of plenty. There should be more than one water bowl and more than one comforta-
ble place to lie down. There should be plenty of toys, especially of kinds your dog likes, so that there's no reason for the dogs to
have a conflict over access to them. If your dog has a history of guarding his toys, they should be removed for the initial introduc-
tion period, which may take a few weeks. This all needs to be arranged before you pick up the new dog.
At first, feed your dog the way you always have done and feed the new dog in a different room. Your dog should not
have to worry about feeding time, leading to problems feeding the dogs. The new dog has no expectations of your home, so he
shouldn't be upset by whatever feeding spot you choose. A very food-motivated dog will eat well from the start, but some dogs
may need a person with them
for the first day or two.
Wait until you feel confident that the dogs are comfortable with each other before offering valuable treats such as real
bones, rawhide, pigs' ears, etc., and supervise when you do. If your dog is reactive with these, you may have to separate the dogs
before giving them these items. If your dog never gets these kinds of treats because he is aggressive over them, that should be
the rule for the new dog too.
Your dog may try to keep the new dog away from things that are very important to him. He may block the new dog from
approaching you, from resting places like dog beds and furniture, or from rooms like the family room or the bedroom. If the new
dog is very anxious, he may do the same, trying to keep your dog away from him in certain locations, or even sticking with a fami-
ly member and trying to keep your dog away. Do not scold or punish the dogs if this happens. Instead, get up and move if it looks
like you will be the center of contention, and distract either dog if he seems to be invading a place where the other is resting.
Keep both dogs away from areas where food is being prepared or eaten at first. If either dog is anxious about the food,
there could be a conflict.
Don't change your dog's sleeping arrangements. If he sleeps in your bedroom, you'll have to decide whether the new
dog will sleep there too. That may be the only way to avoid a lot of distress on the part of the new dog. He may have to be crat-
ed, though, at least in the beginning, to avoid problems during the night when you would be unprepared to intervene.
Very few dogs coexist without disagreements. A stare, a lifted lip or a growl is a normal dog signal that he’s uncomforta-
ble with something another dog is doing. Often the recipient of these signals will stop and move away—this is appropriate. There
is likely to be some of this at first. As the dogs become more comfortable with each other they should do less of this, but punish-
ing them can have very negative results. It can turn uncertainty into fear and aversion and result in ongoing conflict between the
dogs.
Supervise and distract as needed to make sure serious conflicts don't arise, but don't punish this sort of behavior. Exam-
ples of serious conflicts I include staring that cannot be interrupted, hard stiff muscles and posturing that lasts more than a few
seconds, or full-contact fights. Please also monitor for excessive "bullying" behavior from one dogs towards another. If you no-
tice that one dog is repeatedly avoiding eye contact and interactions, rolling over onto his back, or attempting to escape from the
other dog. This can be an indication that one dog is uncomfortable and fearful and that the other dog is not appropriately re-
sponding to his avoidance cues.
Don't leave the dogs together when they are alone in the house until you're reasonably sure that they are comfortable
with each other. The new dog especially may be very anxious when left with your dog at first. If they can be crated, fine; if not,
perhaps they can be gated apart. It may be difficult to separate them behind closed doors. Leave them for very short periods at
first to make sure no problems arise when you're gone.
Supervise play between the dogs at first. Dogs who are not well acquainted may do some rough play at first and this can
result in growling or snapping. Be prepared to distract and redirect the dogs to another activity if play becomes too intense. As
the dogs become more familiar with each other they usually learn to modulate their play.
Any situation that raises the level of excitement in your environment should be avoided at first. The more time the dogs
have to become acquainted before they have to deal with visitors or other disturbances the better. If you have children, do not
let them or their friends interact with the two dogs without adult supervision.
Remember that the new dog will have no idea at first how to signal that he needs to eliminate. Treat him as though you
were beginning to housetrain him until he understands your routine. Try not to let him have accidents in the house; sometimes
one dog will mark over the elimination of the other leading to housesoiling problems.
As time goes on you'll learn more about the new dog's personality, but be careful at first of overwhelming him. People
should not hug or kiss him, and there should be no rough play.
Especially at first, avoid doing things to either dog that require restraint, such as grooming or bathing, in front of the
other. A dog may attack the restrained dog if he is anxious about him.
When using treats during daily activities, be sure there are plenty for each dog. You might start out with less attractive
treats so as to avoid aggression over them.
Be patient and keep in mind most dogs get along well once they are accustomed to each other
Return to Karen’s Korner
INTRODUCING YOUR DOG TO A NEW BABY
From Ohio State Univ. School of Veterinary Medicine
Before your baby comes...
The time before your baby arrives is your opportunity to introduce your pet to the physical changes that will occur in your home
environment that will be associated with the baby. It’s also the time to try to establish a time your pet can expect to spend some
time with you so that you can give him a little special attention each day.
You will not want the pet to be in the baby's room without supervision, so please accustom him to gates or a closed
door to that room. Even if the room is not finished yet, it's good to start now, especially if this is a room the pet used to be al-
lowed to enter.
If you anticipate gating your pet out of other areas of the house so that you can tend to and play with the baby without
having to supervise the pet, please start putting those gates up now.
Exercise pens (X-pens) can sometimes be helpful confining a dog away from a baby while still in the same room with
you. These are used as portable "safe zones" for dogs, and dogs should have appealing toys, possibly food-based, when confined
there. If you plan to use one, you might try it now while you are working around the house to see if the dog is distressed by it. If
so, please let us know.
If you will want to walk your dog and the baby at the same time, please work with him now on leash walking, so that by
the time the baby comes he will be good at walking without pulling.
If your dog is aggressive to people or animals on walks, it's best not to consider walking baby and dog at the same time.
Any baby furniture, including swings, cribs, bassinets, etc. that you will be using can be introduced now so that it will
not be part of the changes that happen just when the baby arrives.
If you plan to use a baby sling to carry the baby, wear it frequently now. You can put a doll in it to help acquaint the pet
with your "new look". If the pet seems concerned about this please let us know.
It may be helpful to get a CD of baby sounds such as crying and gurgling and play it frequently so that these sounds are
not new to the pet when the baby arrives. It is also helpful to have your dog perform his favorite tricks for treats and eat his
meals during the playing of this CD so that he develops a positive association with these noises.
Teach your dog to associate a pleasant experience with certain baby scents, such as baby lotion/powder by rubbing
some on your hands just prior to treat training and relaxed petting.
If you have friends or relatives whose babies visit you, please note your pet’s reactions to them. It will be important for
you to discuss with your veterinarian whether he considers them routine or seems anxious or upset by them.
It is not usually possible to determine before a baby arrives what will be her sleeping/waking/fussy periods of the day.
However, you might choose a time when there would generally be more than one adult at home and begin spending 15-30
minutes with your pet now at that time of day. Even if you can’t always give your pet attention at this time, it may be helpful to
accustom him to the idea that a certain part of the day will usually be spent playing or otherwise interacting with you.
After your baby comes...
If possible, while you are still at the hospital, try to send home an item of the baby's clothes for your pet to smell to help accus-
tom him to the scent of the baby.
When you bring the baby home, it's important for at least one other adult to be there to help. This can be an over-
whelming time for everyone, and excited or anxious pets can add to the distress. The best strategy may be for you to come in and
greet the pet yourself and have someone else carry the baby.
Once you are home and the pet has had a chance to greet you, you may want to have another adult deal with him while
you settle in and attend to the baby. If the pet has become accustomed to staying in a "safe room", behind a gate or in an X-pen,
he could be put in that place now.
Some parents elect to send the dog to a familiar relative for the first day or two after a baby arrives home just to let
them settle the baby in without other responsibilities.
Remember that even the most tolerant pets should never be left unsupervised with babies or young children. It's very
tempting to leave the room to answer the phone or turn down the oven, but the baby should go with you or the pet be in his
"safe room".
If your pet has shown aggression to people, there should always be one adult supervising the pet and one supervising
the baby if they are in the same area. Otherwise, the pet should be in his "safe room".
Please let us know if your pet shows distress in the presence of the baby or to the crying or other activities of the baby.
We can help you with the management of this problem.
Remember that many pets first become anxious about babies when they become mobile. Be very observant when the
baby first scoots and crawls and let us know how that pet reacts to that.
Babies can inadvertently hurt pets, by pulling on them, stumbling and falling over them, stepping on them. This can
cause a pet to react aggressively out of surprise and pain. It's important to supervise babies who can move about when the pet is
around, or confine the pet safely away from them.
Babies and toddlers cannot understand danger, and even if snapped at or scratched by a pet they are unlikely to stay
away. Even a child who has had a negative experience with a pet will approach him again. Supervision is essential.
It is better to work on teaching your child to respect and be gentle with animals than to attempt to teach a pet not to
react to rough handling. Even a pet conditioned not to react to such activities can bite without warning if he becomes painful or
ill for some reason. Children who are tired or frustrated may escalate their roughness to the point where even a very tolerant pet
may react. And a child used to being gentle and appropriate with animals will not be in danger when visiting other households
where the pets may not be so tolerant.
Pets can be very attractive to children when their parents are busy, and children who can move about may go back to
the pet again and again when they are not engaged in other activities. When you are busy, it's best to put the pet in his "safe
room" and try to interest the child in something she can do while you work.
If visitors are a problem for your pet, the arrival of a baby brings new challenges. When adults or other children visit, he
should be in his "safe room". Please let us know if you are having trouble keeping him calm while separated.
Once your child has other children visiting, the pet should be separated. Even if each visiting child has a parent present,
it's too much to expect people to visit with you, attend to their children and watch their children with your pet. Please place the
pet in the "safe room".
Older children may be curious about the pet and try to open a closed door. A lockable door to the pet’s room or even a
hook and eye at the top of the door should help.
Please keep your pet separated from your child when there is food present. A pet can try to snatch a piece of food and
make contact with the child instead. A larger pet can knock a child down trying to get food without meaning to be aggressive to
the child.
If your pet steals the baby's toys, please discuss this with your veterinarian. It may help to make sure the pet has a vari-
ety of his favorite kinds of toys, and rotating them may help keep them interesting. It may be simplest to gate the pet out of the
room where most of the toys are, such as a family room.
If your dog is actively avoiding, showing fear of, or aggression towards your baby, please completely separate him from
your baby and contact your veterinarian immediately.
This page is adapted from the Behavior Clinic at the Matthew J. Ryan Veterinary Hosptial of the University of Pennsylvania
Return to Karen’s Korner
Some Dogs and Cats Prone to Sunburn
In new finding researchers at the University of Veterinary Medicine, Vienna, explain that dogs and cats that have white or thin
coast are extremely sensitive to UV rays
similar to animals with close shorn fur or with some pre-existing conditions. "Some animals particularly enjoy lying on their
backs to bask in the sun. This exposes the skin
on their bellies, which is often hairless, to the rays of the sun, increasing the risk of sunburn," reports veterinary dermatologist
Christa Horvath-Ungerbock.
Humans with little or no pigmentation are extremely sensitive to the sun, animals with very short or thin fur are also vulnerable.
In cats and dogs it is applicable
to those parts of the skin that are regularly exposed to the sun such as nose bridge, the skin around the eyes and the back.
During summers, animals with short fur face major problems as the UV rays easily penetrate down to the sensitive skin and
cause sunburn.
"As a rule, animals should have a shady place to lie in. Especially at midday, when the sun is at its strongest and presents the
greatest risk, not just for the skin
but for the animal overall", explains dermatologist Horvath-Ungerbock. "Particularly sensitive animals require sun protection in
the form of a waterproof sunscreen with an SPF
of at least 30 or a sunblock containing zinc oxide, for example."
The skinspecialists advise that not every white dog or white cat needs sunscreen or clothing to protect it from sun. But in case if
the animal is highly sensitive or if the skin
is damaged, protection is needed to avoid further damage.
If the animal's skin is reddened or has flaking skin, it should be kept in the shade and use of cool compresses or ointment will
help soothe the skin and offer relief.
Owners should approach a veterinarian if the burns is severe. Cortisone products avoid inflammation and second-
ary infections can be treated with antibiotics.
"We sometimes see squamous cell carcinoma on the heads of white, outdoor cats as the result of chronic sun exposure. The
affected areas of the skin then need to be
surgically removed," Horvath-Ungerböck explains.
Frequent sunburns are extremely dangerous as they can lead to pre-cancerous conditions or skin tumors.
Return to Karen’s Korner
Non-Invasive Detection/Monitoring
Karsten Schober, DVM, Ph.D., of Ohio State University, recently completed
research on noninvasive predictions of congestive heart failure in dogs. Dr.
Schober initially was interested in determining whether cardiac ultrasound
--Doppler echocardiography--could predict congestive heart failure. He
wanted to reduce the high radiation levels that patients and staff were ex-
posed to when the 20 to 40 films were taken to make a diagnosis.
“We tested 70 dogs in this study and we found Doppler is a very reliable
way of diagnosing the disease,” Schober says. “At home, owners could
monitor the animal’s respirations. If the respiration rate went below a cer-
tain number, we could determine the dog did have the disease. We had
owners track their dogs’ respirations and by comparing their findings to
traditional methods of diagnosis we found this way of monitoring CHF was
much less invasive for early detection and disease monitoring.”
Schober says a new use for sildenafil (Viagra), helps reduce artery pres-
sure when used with L-arginine in dogs with pulmonary disease. As much
as 80 to 90 percent of dogs with mitral valve disease also have pulmonary
disease.
“I am conducting an ongoing clinical trial using these drugs,” Schober
says. “About one-third of all dogs responded well to this treatment, which
is better than drugs used for treatment in the past. Owners say the dogs
seem to feel better. We are hoping these drugs can extend the animals’
lives and the quality of life.”
Specialists say evidenced-based medicine has become the standard, and
owners’ willingness to pursue treatments means cardiology research will
continue to have a strong industry presence.
Return to Karen’s Korner
There is More Than One Way to Treat Your Pet's Pain
PetMed Staff
There are many modalities available to pet owners to better manage the pain experienced by a companion ca-nine or feline. Which options to use, how frequently they should be employed, and concerns for side effects are some of the main considerations that may govern the availability of such treatments for a pet's pain manage-
ment.
In my veterinary practice, the goal in treating my patients’ pain is to always improve their comfort, mobility, and quality of life while reducing risks for mild to life-threatening side effects from medications or other prescribed treatments (radiation for cancer, etc.). This approach is termed multimodal pain management and I use it fre-quently and effectively for my canine and feline patients’ arthritis and other health problems that cause pain (intervertebral disc disease [IVDD], trauma, surgery, muscle and ligament damage, etc.). The multimodal pain management protocols I recommend involve combinations of the following therapeutics tailored specifically to
my patients’ needs.
Veterinary Prescription Drugs
When pets suffer from pain, owners must provide immediate relief so that secondary health (decreased appetite, difficulty resting, etc.) and behavior concerns (lethargy, aggression, etc.) do not emerge on a short or long-term basis. My first line of treatment is to use veterinary prescription pain-relievers, such as non-steroidal anti-
inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), including Carprofen (Rimadyl), Meloxicam (Metacam), and others.
When prescribed and used appropriately, such medications can safely benefit arthritis pain. Of course the goal of multimodal pain management is to reduce the dose and frequency of such drugs by making the body healthier and modifying a patient’s lifestyle to decrease the further likelihood of creating additional discomfort. Cats are very sensitive to the use of NSAIDs, so I highly prioritize other means of reducing pain and inflammation to help
protect feline kidneys and other organ systems.
I always evaluate my patients’ blood and urine status before prescribing such drugs, as the kidneys and liver are the primary means of drug metabolism and the digestive tract. Blood clotting mechanisms and organ systems
can be negatively affected by non-judicious use.
Human Prescription Pain Medications
There are many human pain medications that can be used to relieve discomfort in our companion canines and felines. These drugs don't have animal-specific versions, so veterinarians dispense them from their hospital sup-
ply, human pharmacies, or veterinary pharmacies.
Some examples include opioid pain relievers (those derived from the poppy plant but synthetically produced) like Tramadol and Buprenorphine and GABA analogues (Gabapentin, which mimics a neurotransmitter called GABA and modifies calcium channels). Since side effects of these drugs include sedation, difficulty standing or walking, anorexia (decreased appetite), nausea, and others it’s crucial to use such drugs at a dose and frequen-
cy that provides a desired result but minimizes adverse responses.
I must stress the importance that such medications are used under the guidance of your veterinarian and fre-quent communication about your pet’s response occurs so that any appropriate modifications in the pain man-
agement protocol can be made.
Joint Supporting Nutraceuticals
Nutraceuticals are food-derived substances having a medicinal effect. Nutraceuticals geared to promote joint
health are termed chondroprotectants (i.e., cartilage protectors).
Chondroprotectant nutraceuticals commonly include glucosamine, MSM, vitamins (C, E, etc.), minerals (Calcium, Manganese, etc.), antioxidants (Selenium, Alpha Lipoic Acid, etc.), anti-inflammatory substances (turmeric, ome-ga fatty acids, etc.), and more. I’ve seen favorable responses to ActivPhy for may canine patients, as it contains a novel blend of the above ingredients plus phycyocyanin, which is a blue-green algae extract that has been sci-entifically proven to reduce production of the cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) enzyme associated with arthritis in
dogs.
I also strongly recommend the use of fish-oil based I also strongly recommend the use of fish-oil based omega 3 fatty acids to naturally reduce inflammation in the joints, skin, internal organs, and nervous system. The primary product I use in my practice is Nordic Naturals Omega 3 Pet, which is free from heavy metals, pesticides, and radiation, has minimal odor or flavor, and comes in either easily-administered liquid or capsules. (I’ve taken Nor-
dic Naturals fish oil for years to help my own arthritis pain and skin issues.)
Cartilage Rebuilding Medications
Besides nutraceuticals, there are veterinary medications that are given by injection to benefit joint health and rebuild cartilage, including Polysulfated Glycosaminoglycan (PSGAG, like Adequan) and Sodium Pentosyn Sul-fate (Cartrophen). Since these products are given as an injection, they bypass the digestive tract and readily travel from the injection site through the bloodstream to all joints. Such medications are ideal for a dog having digestive tract problems caused by disease (food intolerance, inflammatory bowel disease, etc.) or medications
(NSAIDs, chemotherapy, etc.).
Home Environment and Lifestyle Modification
When dogs suffer from arthritis pain, modifying their home environment and lifestyle is crucial so that affected joints experience less stress and potential for injury is reduced. This means lowering the height of a bed and using a step or stairs next to the couch to provide safe passage onto and off of elevated surfaces. Carpeting, runner rugs, or yoga mats should cover slippery floors. Foot and nail covers (Pawz, ToeGrips, etc.) provide addi-tional traction on slick surfaces. Access points to stairs can be blocked by gates to prevent a dog from slipping, falling, and injuring himself while attempting to ascend or descend. Ramps can provide safer access to the backseat of hatchback of cars. Dogs engaging in high-impact activities (running, ball playing, etc.) must transi-
tion to low-impact exercise, such as walking, hiking, swimming, or physical rehabilitation.
Weight Management
Over 54% of cats and dogs (approximately 98 million pets) in the U.S. are overweight or obese according to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention (APOP). Besides arthritis, other ailments like heart and lung prob-lems, glandular disorders (diabetes, etc.) digestive problems (constipation, etc.), and cancer can be avoided or
minimized if pets maintain a normal body condition score (BCS) on a lifelong basis.
Dogs in need of weight loss should have an examination by a veterinarian and any recommended diagnostic testing to determine if there’s an underlying endocrine problem (hypothyroidism, hyperadrenocorticism, etc.) contributing to an elevated BCS and higher number on the scale. Veterinarians can calculate a dog’s daily calor-ic needs and recommend the exact amount of commercially-available or home-prepared diets to feed each day to
safely promote weight loss.
Complementary and Alternative Medicine (CAM)
A variety of treatments for arthritis pain have emerged that are considered complementary and alternative medi-
cine (CAM). CAM is becoming better-accepted as means of treating many canine ailments. Options include:
Acupuncture — Insertion of needles into acupuncture points to promote the release of the body's own
pain-
relieving and anti-inflammatory hormones. Manual pressure (acupressure), heat (moxibustion), electrici-ty (electrostimulation), injection of liquids (aquapuncture), or laser can also be used to stimulate acu-
puncture points.
Herbs — There are a variety of plant-derived products that help promote blood flow and reduce inflam-mation in body tissues. I always recommend veterinary-prescribed, U.S.-made products like those made
by Dr. Xie’s Jing Tang Herbal, Standard Process, and others.
Laser — Low power (“cold”) lasers can be used to safely and painlessly promote tissue repair, blood flow, oxygen and nutrient delivery, and the removal of metabolic wastes. I commonly use
a MultiRadiance MR4 Activet4 Laser on my patients' painful spots and acupuncture points.
Pulsed Electromagnetic Frequency (PEMF) — PEMF is a non-invasive means of modulating canine OA pain. In my practice, I treat patients with the Assisi Loop, which is simple to lay over or around affected
joints.
Physical Rehabilitation — Specially-trained veterinarians and human physical therapists can provide physical rehabilitation to animal patients. Besides the above-mentioned modalities, dogs can swim in a pool, walk on an above-ground or underwater treadmill, have their bodies thoroughly stretched and mas-saged, receive range of motion (ROM) therapy, and more. Some treatments need to be done in a veteri-nary physical rehabilitation facility, but in many cases dog owners can be instructed on how to safely
provide therapy at home.
As there are so many options to help lessen your pet’s pain, dog and cat owners now have the ability to make choices that can minimize undesirable side effects from treatment while still maintaining a pet’s com-
fortable quality of life.
A canine patient gets electrostimuation treatment for back pain.
A canine patient gets needle acupuncture treatment for joint and cancer-related pain.
A canine patient gets laser acupuncture treatment (laser applied to locations where needles would be
placed).
A feline patient gets a combination of needle acupuncture and laser treatment.
Dr. Patrick Mahaney
Read more at http://www.philly.com/philly/blogs/phillypet-s/20150122_PET360_There_is_More_Than_One_Way_to_Treat_Your_Pet_s_Pain.html#z2TsIZWWSWmXT4f