Sungmin Kim SEOUL NATIONAL UNIVERSITY Fashion Technology 2. Flat Sketch and Fabric Design Garment Design • Body modeling • 3D draping simulation Pattern Design • 2D Parametric design • 3D pattern design Fabric Design • Weave CAD • 2.5D Mapping Flat Sketch • Scalable vector graphics • Feature-based design Design Process Overview 2 Design Process
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Sungmin Kim
SEOUL NATIONAL UNIVERSITY
Fashion Technology2. Flat Sketch and Fabric Design
Garment Design
• Body modeling• 3D draping simulation
Pattern Design
• 2D Parametric design• 3D pattern design
Fabric Design
• Weave CAD• 2.5D Mapping
Flat Sketch
• Scalable vector graphics• Feature-based design
Design Process
Overview
2
DesignProcess
Flat Sketch
Conceptual Design Importance
One of the most important processes for determining the trend and target market
Optimum style design with various materials and trends is necessary
3
Flat Sketch
Utilization of Dedicated Tools
4
Design from Scratch
Feature-basedDesign
Texture MappingVirtual Catalog
Flat Sketch
Utilization of Dedicated Tools Benefits of Dedicated Tools
Utilization of extensive well-organized style diagram database
Maximization of designers’ creativity through automation style combinations
Reduction of time and cost for sample production
Required Technology
2D Computer Graphics
– Vector graphics– Raster graphics– Hybrid graphics
5
Flat Sketch
Computer Graphics Definition
Research field related to the activities that includes graphics as input and output
Importance
Interactive shape manipulations plays a major role in CAD/CAM/CAE
Computer graphics is an essential part of CAD/CAM/CAE software
Graphics Programming
Device drivers
– A set of machine dependent codes that directly controls the DPU (Display Processing Unit)
Graphics libraries
– A set of subroutines for specific purposes
6
Flat Sketch
Computer Graphics Raster Graphics
Pixel (Picture Element) based
– Bitmap structure– Processing time is the same regardless of scene complexity– Suitable for detailed expression– Scaling or rotation causes quality degradation– BMP, GIF, JPG, TIF, PCX, ...
7
Flat Sketch
Computer Graphics Vector Graphics
Coordinate system based
– Vector calculus– Processing time depends on scene complexity– Difficult to express details of an object– Non-destructive scaling and rotation – DXF, IGES, WMF, AI, ...
8
Flat Sketch
Computer Graphics Hybrid Graphics
Vector graphics for outline
Raster graphics for detail
Suitable for style design diagrams
9
Flat Sketch
Feature-based Design Vector Objects Database
Editable and scalable
10
Flat Sketch
Applications Technical Package
EDI (Electronic Data Interchange)
11
Flat Sketch Applications Virtual Catalog
Real-time interactive combination of various options
Provide possible combination scenarios to customers
12
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Major Functions
Automatic Structural Design
– Basic (plain, twill, satin) , extended, and special woven structure database
– Automatic weavability evaluation and peg plan generation
– Various design tools
Loom Control Function
– Electronic Dobby/Jacquard loom control function
Digital Printing Function
– Color separation and calibration for optimized digital textile printing
Advanced Features
– 3D visualization of woven structure
– Photo-realistic visualization of fabric design on garments
13
Weft
Warp
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Principles of Weaving
14
Shuttle
Warp
Weft
Cloth Beam Warp Beam
Fabric Design
15
Fabric Design Weave CAD Three Basic Woven Structures
16
Plain Twill Satin
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Complex Structures
17
Oblique Rib Weave
Fancy Basket Weave Broken Twill
Diaper Twill Checkerboard Satin
Brighton Honey Comb
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Parametric Structure Design
Script language based automation
18
Name=Brighton honey-combType=1Hint=Size must be an odd numberParam=1Size=7Rule=12
GRID,(Size+1)*2,(Size+1)*2LINE-45,0,1,(Size+1)*2-1LINE-45,1,0,(Size+1)*2-1LINE45,0,Size*2+1,(Size+1)*2HORZLINE,1,10,1,1,Size,-2HORZLINE,Size+2,0,1,1,Size-2,-2HORZLINE,2,(Size+1)*2-1,1,-1,Size-2,-2HORZLINE,Size+1,(Size+1)*2-1,1,-1,Size,-2HORZLINE,0,Size,1,1,Size,-2HORZLINE,Size+2,Size+1,1,1,Size,-2HORZLINE,0,Size,1,-1,Size,-2HORZLINE,Size+2,Size+1,1,-1,Size,-2
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Interactive Manipulation
Creative design
Automatic weavability evaluation
19
Fabric Design
Weave CAD 2D Visualization
Yarn modeling for photo-realistic expression
20
Yarn Modeling
Dobby
Jacquard
Fabric Design
Weave CAD 2D Visualization
Color calibration
– CIE, XYZ, LCh color space conversion– DTP (Digital Textile Printing) Swatch
21
Fabric Design
Weave CAD 3D Visualization
Internal structure of fabric
– 3D Modeling for further analysis– FEM (Finite Element Method), Heat Transfer, etc.
22
Fabric Design
Weave CAD 2.5D Mapping
Pseudo 3D Mapping
Verification of fabric design on actual product
23
Traditional2D Mapping
Fabric Design
Weave CAD 2.5D Mapping
Isoparametric Mapping
– Definition of multiple regions according to patterns– Definition of virtual grid for isoparametric mapping
24
Original Photo Region & GridComposite Image
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Isoparametric Mapping
25
1
10
Texture Image
1
1
0 New Coordinate System (Grid)
0
1
1
IsoparametricMapping
Simple MappingIsoparametric
Mapping
Fabric Design
Knit CAD Major Functions
Generation of various structures such as tricot, double raschel, and so on.
Conversion of garment pattern into knit structure
Production planning based on yarn consumption data
26
Warp Knit Weft Knit
Fabric Design
Knit CAD Whole Garment Knitting
Ideal seamless garment
27
Whole garment knitting machine
(Shima Seiki)
Fabric Design
Digital Textile Printing Conventional Printing
Optimum color separation
Continuous silk screen printing
Digital Printing
Full color design
Environment friendly
Low productivity
28
Fabric Design
Digital Textile Printing New Technology for Fast DTP
29
Conventional Silk Screen PrintingSingle-Pass high speed printing
Fabric Design
Digital Textile Printing
30
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